Hi Jenna, it's nice to have another video and you got a new toy I love it. I would wrap that hose that is blowing the hot air in to the trailer with insulation to maximize your heat. Once it gets really cold it won't blow very warm at all if you don't wrap the hose.
Very good installation, Jenna. Your set up is really smart (I think that they should be put outside for many reasons not the least of which is noise levels -- between the fan sounds, the noise of combustion, and the fuel pump ticking, they can be pretty intrusive with their noise). I especially like your plywood insert in the window, that's just how I would have done it if I were doing an installation like yours. But a couple of things might help you -- I've been dealing with these things for over 30 years. I worked for a car company and would go on the cold weather test trips up to the Great White North there, eh? and we'd run vehicles in temperatures of down to 40 degrees below (going out in the morning for cold starts is lotsa fun, I'll tell you - and don't even think about changing a battery). The units we had then were from Webasto and Eberspracher in Germany and the operating principles were the same (although the German units cost 8 - 10 times as much as the Chinese ones). First thing, to get your efficiency up, you need to have two holes in your window insert -- the one you have now for the hot air into your camper and another one like it to duct inside out out to the heater. The reason for this is that you need to heat the air inside the camper (of course). Think of it this way, if you start up, for the first minute you're blowing hot air into the camper, then the second minute, you're blowing hot air in but the new hot air is blowing some of the earlier heated air (which you paid for heating) out of your wood stove flue, cracks around doors and windows, plumbing vents, etc. If you pull air out of the camper and recirculate your air flow, you keep the warm air inside and you don't build up pressure to blow the warmth out. It's easy, just drill another hole in the plywood insert and put a second pipe just like you've done for your output air, and connect that second pipe to the main air intake (not the combustion air intake with the black filter cannister). You'll save money and you'll feel the extra heat immediately. Second, I've never seen a controller that doesn't have an inside air temperature thermostat. Some of them, you have to push two buttons on the control panel at the same time to bring up the temperature control settings but they're there somewhere! This will be in your instructions (and I've heard many people say that the instructions with these units can be total c**p but at least the basics should be there). Third, these units have a starting sequence that's controlled by software in the control panel. To start, the unit has to put in a small amount of fuel and burn that to warm up the unit enough so that there will be enough energy in the unit to allow it to burn the fuel as it runs at it's full output. When you first start, it will sound as if nothing is happening (and you won't get heat), then after 2 - 3 - 4 minutes, you'll hear it fully kick on and you'll get the big heat. Also, you'll hear a difference in the speed of fuel pump ticking, it will be slow at first and then speed up later. That's normal, it's the way it has to operate, so just expect it to do that. (Also, don't be surprised is the exhaust pipe has some smoke that smells like burning diesel fuel for a few minutes - that's normal and soon, it will warm up enough inside the combustion chamber that all the fuel will be burned in the process and the smoking will stop.) In addition, there's a similar shut-down sequence. When you hit off, you'll hear the fuel pump stop and for a while (2 - 3 minutes, usually) the fan will speed up. That's because the system has to blow fresh air into the heating unit to cool it down. If it just stops (like if the battery is disconnected suddenly) the heating unit can be hot inside enough to melt down or it will be hot enough to burn up fuel lines inside the case or burn wiring. Basically, a "sudden stop" is very likely to wreck your entire unit. Be sure that your heater always has enough 12V power to it to run the complete shut-down sequence automatically. Fourth, the air coming into the camper through the swiveling "elbow" pipe is very hot -- it can be up to 190 degrees/90 degrees C and that elbow pipe WILL become hot enough to burn your skin. That's the way it works, just find a way to put insulation or some kind of handle on it so no one is hurt by coming into contact with it. But these are details. Your installation is generally very good and you're doing a lot of things right. You've got good building and mechanical skills and with some adjustments you'll be up to peak performance really soon. One final thing - read the instructions and then stop to think about what they say, then read them again. These units aren't really complicated but they do need correct handling to work well. That's particularly true of the control panel. These units try to be "everything to everybody" and they put in all kinds of control scenarios in different ways. Get it programmed as you want it and it will work well for you. Have a safe winter!
I absolutely enjoy my diesel heater I put in my 38ft motorhome to have a second heat source besides propane when I'm off grid.plus my motorhome is my guest house when we have company.
I’m sure u know this by now but maybe this will help someone: you can get to temperature from her it’s by pressing the settings and temperature down button simultaneously… That will change it from hertz to temperature. From there you can change from Celsius to Fahrenheit if needed
Hi Jenna, I just saw this video. I havent seen any of your other videos yet. I am sure you have figured out a your system a bit better by now. Just a couple of things that will definitely help you out, FIrst, You dont have a thermostat. What you have is a rheostat. It is essentially the same type system as you see in most cars. In other words, you turn it on and leave it at the temp you feel comfortable. I believe it goes up to about 5 hertz. As it gets colder you will need more heat and you will turn it up. That would be fine if the outside temp stayed the same. A thermostat will bring it to a predetermined temp and then shut it off. Second, brucebear was correct with needing a second air inlet. In a more concise way of putting it, you would be heating inside air the first time it goes through the heater and it will come out warm. The air will circulate and warmer air will come out hotter and making your RV warmer easier and cheaper. This will happen again and again until it stabilizes at its most efficient point. Your wood burning stove does this to some degree. It sends out some heat at first and then it gives off more heat when the whole stove and flu is hot. Third, I am concerned about your water pipes. Are they outside and all your heat is inside? Electrical heat tape can easily fail and catch fire. My friend and his wife lost everything but the clothes on their backs due to that. Sooner or later the tape will short out or the thermostat fails and the tape over-heats. Fourth, speaking of freezing, I hope you are using diesel fuel that is treated so that it wont gel up in the cold. As a truck drfiver in Chicago, we get that problem a lot but you are where it gets even colder. Speaking of fuel, I am wondering what you do for a larger fuel supply. That gallon wont last a long time. A 55 gallon drum or fuel tank will make it last a lot longer. Have a fuel filter inserted in line in the fuel hose. BTW, those green fuel hoses dry out and crack. Plastic also gets hard and brittle in the cold and will break. Do not draw fuel from the very bottom of any tank as sediment will gather there. It will either clog the pump or the filter going to the pump. Fifth, I am sure you probably put hinges on your heater roof by now. I just wanted to say that you do not want to keep disassembling the heater to fill it as the hoses, etc will wear much quicker with repeated removal and replacement. Six, dont point your warm air toward your controller. It will turn off your heater before the rest of the rv gets heated. You want that air to circulate. Try to locate the controller so it is not mounted on the cold wall, if you can. It will pick up that cold and stay on too long otherwise.. I am glad you located the heater outside. It is safer. Hot exhaust is staying outside. You had your air intake pointed up. It will catch rain and snow. Running inlet up is fine as long as the end is pointed downward. A screen on it will keep birds and bugs out of the heater. Lastly, I recently saw a "buyers guide" video on youtube regard that and other heaters. He claims that the btu output of the 8kw and 5 kw were the same and that he contacted Amazon about that. They told him that ALL of them were mislabled and that they really were only 5kw. You may have one, or you may not. My concern is that even an 8kw may not be enough heat in harsh cold. Maybe it is. Maybe 5kw is ok. Check the RVing with TIto video. He had good success but he had to block off rooms at night to keep his bedroom warm. RVs arent as well insulated as homes and you are in a colder environment. I have 1.5kw electric heat in my insulated van and it works well to 25F or minus 4C. My floor is cold but the beds and above at 68F or 20C. I think 2kw should be good for our travel needs and 4 kw would do good for extreme cold for us. I am guessing that you might want or need a bit more heat, maybe. Keep that woodburner. These heaters do carbon up and lose efficiency and fail. You will need a backup just in case. Also, and very important, I know you were testing the heater on it's low output. That is not good. It does not build up enough heat inside the heater to efficiently burn the diesel fuel and carbon will occur and cause a failure. Run it on high when you can. Even in summer, fire it up once a month and let it run for an hour or two to keep it fresh and carbon*free. Of course you would leave windows etc open and be outside or just direct your hose outside. Knowledge is power. I hope this helps.
10 days without a single video!!! lets go Jenna !!! winter is around corner people will start getting heaters like this one and show them it isn't hard to set up and all even a girl can do it!!
Very nice job Jenna! Been considering one of these for back up heat for our trailer for awhile now, just haven’t yet bit the bullet on getting one. The pump sound that everyone complains about is one of my issues, but I like your idea to have the unit outside and build a housing for it, maybe that will do the trick for us as well! Thanks for another informative and entertaining video!!
I have a diesel heater in my rv and love it. The difference is that you got the all in one unit, which obviously works differently mine does give temperature and I install it where the propane heater use to be. I love mine and it keeps this place warm when I'm not here to heat with my wood stove
It would work a lot better if you weren't trying to heat up the colder outside air. You need to pull your warmer inside air through the heater. Hook up a return or put the heater inside.
Yes but then she would need to leave a window partially open because the heater would then be consuming oxygen from the inside. People have died from not having adequate ventalation and using heaters that burn fuel and use up the oxygen. Letting the cold air in from outside would probably the off set any gain from having the heater inside using warmer air. But I'm not sure about that but I bet it would be close. EDIT. I was mistaken. Now that I gave my heater here and running, I see there is a seperate air intake just for the combustion chamber so with the heater outside, and or the combustion intake is outside, it will not consumr sny oxygen from inside.
These heaters have 2 separate air systems. The combustion side, intake and exhaust under the unit, is completely sealed like your furnace, then there is the air exchanger which is from back to front, hot exhaust on the front and the intake on the back. The unit is best outside, or at least using outside air for the combustion process and having the air for the exchanger drawn from the conditioned space inside the rv.
@@hobbyguy79 Yes, you are exactly correct. I was concerned about folks sticking the combustion intake inside and using up the oxygen. I forgot there is a seperate intake for the forced hot air side too. Thanks.
@@OverlandOne It's an RV, air will make its way inside to replace the combustion air. It doesn't consume anywhere near the amount of air a fireplace will take.
I would like to commend you on your efforts. Living that life style is not for the faint of heart. Being self sufficient is always a challenge. Ive been working on my homestead for almost 10 yrs now. From timber land to cabins/barns etc. I heat with wood. I do have power and city water. By my electric is very minimal compared to most. In the winter my bill will run about $50 to 60. In the summer with running several window ac units. 3 in the cabin. 1 in the barn and 1 in the she shead........my bill runs about 160. Im in the Cumberland plateau of Tennessee. I just bought a diesel heater similar to yours. Plan on trying it out for the winter. But again.....my main source of heat is wood. I have a very old Ashley wood stove that still works great. I burn about 8 rick of wood a winter. Thats about 2.5 cord for you.
Thank you for posting Jenna, you did a great job on the install. I did not know they made a all in one unit, this is something I will have to consider. Take care.
I love mine i sleep in the back of my ford 150 .i have a bed cover so i just set the unit on top of that cover and put the heat hose through my back slider window and my power supply i use battery cables. Good enough for camping the weekend. It cooks me out on the lowest setting...love the sound too.
You must like the sound of a ticking clock too eh? I find it hard to sleep with the sound but with my unit being outside I cant hear the sound from the bed lol
I have 2 diesel heaters in my rv and they work wonderful nice dry heat.i recirculate the cab air.i have one like yours to heat my shop as well and works fantastic
I have the kind with a smaller heater and an external tank, it fits right inside a metal mailbox. I connected some 3 inch insulated ducting to the mailbox and another to the heater and through the back of the mailbox, then put it on a post by my window. It's not as efficient as having it inside, but I want to make an enclosure that catches the exhaust heat too.
Hi Jenna, Not sure if this topic has been touched on or not.... Being diesel fueled and mounted outside you might want to ensure your fuel supply is for cold weather or unheated fuel. While it's operating and warm it probably won't be an issue but if it gets turned off and allowed to chill then the diesel fuel tends to "Gel" down to a thicker viscosity which the fuel pump (that big shiny round part you showed as the filter) will not have an easy time of pumping into the cauldron. Could cause the self check system to lock out operation until it senses easier fuel pump operation. Great idea as an addition to your heating options, I've read that those heaters once they reach operating temperature can be as efficient as less than half a litre per hour. Congrats on the acquisition !!
@@gypsyjenna My husband has had this problem in the past with his diesel truck. He adds "Cetain" to the tank to keep it from gelling. Maybe that'll help? Good luck!
Hey Jenna, now that I have seen your other videos where your wood stove won’t keep up, then I remembered you said it’s to run when not home. I’ve seen others like Truck house life, that installed his inside with the fuel tank outside, which was a great idea.I’ll see some of your other videos to see if you kept the diesel heater
I hope you figured it out by now how to use it. but for anyone watching trying to decide if they want noe or not, these heaters work way better when installed inside, because it heats the warmer air inside room than the cold air outside. just make sure exhaust is routed outside and you have no leaks and get a carbon monoxide alarm just incase. these heaters are cheap in cost and work great if wood is not abundant in your area.
Another reason why the diesel heater doesnt compare to the wood stove is because you have it mounted outside. You have to warm up air that is very cold to begin with. If it was inside it would warm up already warm air and make it more efficient.
All the controllers allows you to set the temperature, look at videos on RUclips to figure out which software you have in your controller. Because there are at least 3 different firmware/software, each one has slightly different controls patterns. The videos show you how to pair your remote.
I think it was designed to run indoors and receive cold air from out side as well as running the exhaust out side there are lots of videos on installing these for heating shops and various work areas and even a few RV installs.
Proud of the work you do for what you have and your not afraid of tackling jobs that most women are afraid of doing , my GF is a lot like you , I live about 6 hrs from her but I offer to come up and do things for her but she'll do it before I get there and it looks really good ❤️ Not to many women are like you 2 ladies ❤️
I'm looking forward to your heater update video. Being a diesel unit you would think it would run a long time on a tank full. Great video Jenna ,thanks for sharing . Take care
Been a while since you posted this so you may have figured it out already, but....I did the exact same thing for my trailer but had issues on the level of heat coming into the trailer. It was simply not as hot as it was when I tested it at the outlet. Turns out that I needed to insulate the pipe from the heater to the window. Because those flexible tubes are so thin, the air was cooling a little before it got into the trailer and therefor could not keep up. As soon as I insulated it (just used some fiberglass pipe insulation), it was GREAT and I could essentially run it on low in sub freezing temps and keep things warm (38 ft travel trailer).
I hear ya on the camping 😄 Ever since I moved into my RV, I have not been out camping. Although sometimes it can feel like I am "camping". My RV is newer, 2018, but I am also starting to notice the propane heater sometimes does weird things. Good reminder to think of alternatives if mine ever goes out. Appreciate you trying things out, wished they worked better for you though!
I like how you installed it thru the window. Jenna I am sure you will monitor temp all around , on wood etc. I remember installing diesel stove on boat, smoke us out at first until we got the gletchs out. So now you have 3 sources of heat. Wish I could send you some fire wood have plenty. I am sure you would make a good archer. Do you do any hunting for deer??
Just stumbled on your channel. Love your little home. I lived a similar lifestyle from 2006-2010 in an old motorhome and the woodstove was a game changer. I’ll have to watch more of your videos but what about running the exhaust to a pipe that runs under the camper to help keep the tanks warm and not waste any heat plus you could put the air intake under there so it helps to make the heater more efficient. Maybe you’ve done this already. I’ll check out more of your vids.
Always been a "function over fashion" person. The install looks like something I would do, after all this type of heater can have so many other uses. I wouldn't want an install to be too permanent.
Didn't know they made an all-in-one unit. Just to inform. Furnace oil is basically Winter diesel with out the taxes. Summer diesel will gel in very cold weather. (you see white wax flakes floating in it) Good luck with the unit and thanks for sharing.
Very nice job. I am going to install that exact unit in my Van. I thought about putting it outside the Van but the problem is diesel fuel gels up when to gets down around 30° F or so. I guess I could add something to it to prevent that but i'd rather have it inside if I can. I may not have the room. Good job on the video.
I have heard people saying about diesel gelling but I have not had a problem and our winters get well below freezing here. Definitely something to look into
There are a few good videos on RUclips to setup the controller and error codes, make sure you run it on high every couple of days to clean the unit out to
Just stumbled on this video, been wanting to order one myself, these heaters need alot of amps to start the glow plug. I'm currently using a propane cabinet heater for now.
thats an awesome job on the cut out wood for the window..i did a similar thing on a motor home once ..cut a hole in the center the right size and stuck the hose for a free standing a/c unit out it..worked like a dame..id it was about a three beer job..and please dont put that heater inside like the bulldogg below wants to..hes trying to kill you with possible fumes from a fuel spill..till then im gonna have a wobbly pop...
A problem that I have with my Propane furnace is Spiders. Spiders love the smell of propane and they build nest where your propane sensors are and sometime they will not light and just run fans where it blows cold air. Quite often I have to turn off the thermostat and restart it. It gets to be annoying through the night. I can't wait till spring when I can blow it out with my air compressor to get rid of the cob webs and spiders. I notice that it happens less and less as I keep killing spiders inside. I haven't seen spiders in awhile and I have not had to reset my furnace either. I assume that I purchased the spiders when I bought the camper. lol
I was going to tell you to make sure you put an additive to your diesel fuel but someone beat me to it. The best way to do that is treat your 5 gallon container.
Thought about picking up one of those diesel heaters. Figured the ticking noise from the pump would keep me awake. I'm thinking moving that thing to fuel up will get old fast, yeah go with a hinged lid. Say, you could build a cover - shelter for those propane tanks to. ;) Would be interested in an avg time the fuel tank lasts, cheers.
Just so that you can keep it so that it ain’t permanent instead of using silicone caulk use aluminum tape on both sides on the inside and the outside so then at least there ain’t a draft in there I know it works from experience because I live in a 40 foot shyster camper
The ones that go in our semis are 1500 cdn or more, hence why we call them cheap... I had one but sold it to my friend since he had no heat in his van...
I don't own one of these, but I have seen a lot of videos on them, and one thing they mention is that the little muffler has a hole in it and you need to face that hole down so that water can weep out of it. If you have it the way it looks like in your video, it could fill with water and rot. Just something I have seen in other videos, I could be wrong. :)
Curious about your skirting. Do you have any insulation over vapor barrier on the ground? I was thinking of putting some attic radiant barrier down over the ground making an enclosed crawl space. Attic reflectors are really inexpensive
Recently found your channel. You are an intelligent woman. I'm in the process of putting one of these in my outhouse. Like you l'm mounting it outside the building. I like the ability to turn it on from a distance. Oh,l'm over here in northern Maine.
I don’t know if you got my last message there are insulated blankets that wrap around the propane tanks that helps them from going low in the cold weather weather ps I am really learning a lot From youthank you
Hey lady! Love your channel. As another gypsy woman, I too am loving and living the trailer tiny house life. Curious if you linked the specific diesel heater you purchased? I'm thinking I'm gonna get one. Thanks!
I can't believe you can't heat that space with that diesel heater. You can set the heater to use a thermostat setting instead of just using the Hz setting, but the heater (or atleast the controller) have to be inside to regulate the temp. You should easily be able to heat that small space with a diesel heater. I'm heating a 2 stall shop with mine.
Don't pinch propane lines they make termination caps that screw on, much safer and you don't have to worry about leaks, its what I did when I removed the water heater, before getting the other one installed in the old shack. Still have that project ahead in the new one.
Those heaters are not designed to sit outside, the only part that should be outside is the exhaust, there is absolutley no reason for it to draw outside air. The only thing mounting it that way will achieve is carbon inside the heat chamber and igniter failure!!
why didn't you go with a mr buddy convection propane heater no exhaust needed and has a thermostat go check out joe at st. bernard acers he put one in in his tiny cabin
I want to buy one of these heaters for back-up heat during power failures. Which all-in-one model (8KW) has the higher capacity fuel tank? The Low profile heater , or the Taller suitcase style heater?
Since you had this diesel heater for quite a while I was thinking about getting one for my camper I'm down here in Massachusetts it does get cold do you recommend diesel heater I've been trying the propane thing for the last couple years I want to switch over to a dryer heat.
I absolutely recommend the diesel heater. It does make a clicking sound but I have my unit outside and not close to the bedroom, so hardly hear it. It is definitely a dry heat unlike propane heat
Can never have too much energy. That said, it's getting chilly out there, best wait 'til spring thaw before you start building the windmill. Stay warm, Jenna!!
Hey, I don't pull it out to fill it. I am using a pocket pump to fill it. No heavy lifting to pour and no pulling the diesel heater out. This is probably an old video
The one time I didn't double check something and I messed up so let me apologize to Hilbert I am sorry we're good now little buddy ? And about your " religious carton " you mention at the beginning of the video I will forever hold my piece .
major foul , you should be sucking air out of the trailer, as it is , you are heating outside ambient air, where as you need to be heating inside air. (two hoses, two elbows, two holes in the plywood !
Love how you jump into these things where few dare tread.
cheep is not in the price, its the way some thing is built, just saying.
Hi Jenna, it's nice to have another video and you got a new toy I love it. I would wrap that hose that is blowing the hot air in to the trailer with insulation to maximize your heat. Once it gets really cold it won't blow very warm at all if you don't wrap the hose.
Glad to see you back learning a lot from you for ideas for my fithwheel
You should have your air intake piped into your house taking that cold Canadian air and running it through that heater it makes the heater work harder
Very good installation, Jenna. Your set up is really smart (I think that they should be put outside for many reasons not the least of which is noise levels -- between the fan sounds, the noise of combustion, and the fuel pump ticking, they can be pretty intrusive with their noise). I especially like your plywood insert in the window, that's just how I would have done it if I were doing an installation like yours.
But a couple of things might help you -- I've been dealing with these things for over 30 years. I worked for a car company and would go on the cold weather test trips up to the Great White North there, eh? and we'd run vehicles in temperatures of down to 40 degrees below (going out in the morning for cold starts is lotsa fun, I'll tell you - and don't even think about changing a battery). The units we had then were from Webasto and Eberspracher in Germany and the operating principles were the same (although the German units cost 8 - 10 times as much as the Chinese ones).
First thing, to get your efficiency up, you need to have two holes in your window insert -- the one you have now for the hot air into your camper and another one like it to duct inside out out to the heater. The reason for this is that you need to heat the air inside the camper (of course). Think of it this way, if you start up, for the first minute you're blowing hot air into the camper, then the second minute, you're blowing hot air in but the new hot air is blowing some of the earlier heated air (which you paid for heating) out of your wood stove flue, cracks around doors and windows, plumbing vents, etc. If you pull air out of the camper and recirculate your air flow, you keep the warm air inside and you don't build up pressure to blow the warmth out. It's easy, just drill another hole in the plywood insert and put a second pipe just like you've done for your output air, and connect that second pipe to the main air intake (not the combustion air intake with the black filter cannister). You'll save money and you'll feel the extra heat immediately.
Second, I've never seen a controller that doesn't have an inside air temperature thermostat. Some of them, you have to push two buttons on the control panel at the same time to bring up the temperature control settings but they're there somewhere! This will be in your instructions (and I've heard many people say that the instructions with these units can be total c**p but at least the basics should be there).
Third, these units have a starting sequence that's controlled by software in the control panel. To start, the unit has to put in a small amount of fuel and burn that to warm up the unit enough so that there will be enough energy in the unit to allow it to burn the fuel as it runs at it's full output. When you first start, it will sound as if nothing is happening (and you won't get heat), then after 2 - 3 - 4 minutes, you'll hear it fully kick on and you'll get the big heat. Also, you'll hear a difference in the speed of fuel pump ticking, it will be slow at first and then speed up later. That's normal, it's the way it has to operate, so just expect it to do that. (Also, don't be surprised is the exhaust pipe has some smoke that smells like burning diesel fuel for a few minutes - that's normal and soon, it will warm up enough inside the combustion chamber that all the fuel will be burned in the process and the smoking will stop.)
In addition, there's a similar shut-down sequence. When you hit off, you'll hear the fuel pump stop and for a while (2 - 3 minutes, usually) the fan will speed up. That's because the system has to blow fresh air into the heating unit to cool it down. If it just stops (like if the battery is disconnected suddenly) the heating unit can be hot inside enough to melt down or it will be hot enough to burn up fuel lines inside the case or burn wiring. Basically, a "sudden stop" is very likely to wreck your entire unit. Be sure that your heater always has enough 12V power to it to run the complete shut-down sequence automatically.
Fourth, the air coming into the camper through the swiveling "elbow" pipe is very hot -- it can be up to 190 degrees/90 degrees C and that elbow pipe WILL become hot enough to burn your skin. That's the way it works, just find a way to put insulation or some kind of handle on it so no one is hurt by coming into contact with it.
But these are details. Your installation is generally very good and you're doing a lot of things right. You've got good building and mechanical skills and with some adjustments you'll be up to peak performance really soon.
One final thing - read the instructions and then stop to think about what they say, then read them again. These units aren't really complicated but they do need correct handling to work well. That's particularly true of the control panel. These units try to be "everything to everybody" and they put in all kinds of control scenarios in different ways. Get it programmed as you want it and it will work well for you.
Have a safe winter!
Thanks very much, a lot of good information here, I appreciate the feedback!
The videos are great, I love that you are local and living a life I wish to live at some point! Keep the videos coming!
Great job on the installation
I absolutely enjoy my diesel heater I put in my 38ft motorhome to have a second heat source besides propane when I'm off grid.plus my motorhome is my guest house when we have company.
I’m sure u know this by now but maybe this will help someone: you can get to temperature from her it’s by pressing the settings and temperature down button simultaneously… That will change it from hertz to temperature. From there you can change from Celsius to Fahrenheit if needed
That turned out great Jenna. You made that look super easy.👍🏾
Hi Jenna, I just saw this video. I havent seen any of your other videos yet. I am sure you have figured out a your system a bit better by now. Just a couple of things that will definitely help you out, FIrst, You dont have a thermostat. What you have is a rheostat. It is essentially the same type system as you see in most cars. In other words, you turn it on and leave it at the temp you feel comfortable. I believe it goes up to about 5 hertz. As it gets colder you will need more heat and you will turn it up. That would be fine if the outside temp stayed the same. A thermostat will bring it to a predetermined temp and then shut it off.
Second, brucebear was correct with needing a second air inlet. In a more concise way of putting it, you would be heating inside air the first time it goes through the heater and it will come out warm. The air will circulate and warmer air will come out hotter and making your RV warmer easier and cheaper. This will happen again and again until it stabilizes at its most efficient point. Your wood burning stove does this to some degree. It sends out some heat at first and then it gives off more heat when the whole stove and flu is hot.
Third, I am concerned about your water pipes. Are they outside and all your heat is inside? Electrical heat tape can easily fail and catch fire. My friend and his wife lost everything but the clothes on their backs due to that. Sooner or later the tape will short out or the thermostat fails and the tape over-heats.
Fourth, speaking of freezing, I hope you are using diesel fuel that is treated so that it wont gel up in the cold. As a truck drfiver in Chicago, we get that problem a lot but you are where it gets even colder. Speaking of fuel, I am wondering what you do for a larger fuel supply. That gallon wont last a long time. A 55 gallon drum or fuel tank will make it last a lot longer. Have a fuel filter inserted in line in the fuel hose. BTW, those green fuel hoses dry out and crack. Plastic also gets hard and brittle in the cold and will break. Do not draw fuel from the very bottom of any tank as sediment will gather there. It will either clog the pump or the filter going to the pump.
Fifth, I am sure you probably put hinges on your heater roof by now. I just wanted to say that you do not want to keep disassembling the heater to fill it as the hoses, etc will wear much quicker with repeated removal and replacement.
Six, dont point your warm air toward your controller. It will turn off your heater before the rest of the rv gets heated. You want that air to circulate. Try to locate the controller so it is not mounted on the cold wall, if you can. It will pick up that cold and stay on too long otherwise..
I am glad you located the heater outside. It is safer. Hot exhaust is staying outside. You had your air intake pointed up. It will catch rain and snow. Running inlet up is fine as long as the end is pointed downward. A screen on it will keep birds and bugs out of the heater.
Lastly, I recently saw a "buyers guide" video on youtube regard that and other heaters. He claims that the btu output of the 8kw and 5 kw were the same and that he contacted Amazon about that. They told him that ALL of them were mislabled and that they really were only 5kw. You may have one, or you may not. My concern is that even an 8kw may not be enough heat in harsh cold. Maybe it is. Maybe 5kw is ok. Check the RVing with TIto video. He had good success but he had to block off rooms at night to keep his bedroom warm. RVs arent as well insulated as homes and you are in a colder environment. I have 1.5kw electric heat in my insulated van and it works well to 25F or minus 4C. My floor is cold but the beds and above at 68F or 20C. I think 2kw should be good for our travel needs and 4 kw would do good for extreme cold for us. I am guessing that you might want or need a bit more heat, maybe.
Keep that woodburner. These heaters do carbon up and lose efficiency and fail. You will need a backup just in case. Also, and very important, I know you were testing the heater on it's low output. That is not good. It does not build up enough heat inside the heater to efficiently burn the diesel fuel and carbon will occur and cause a failure. Run it on high when you can. Even in summer, fire it up once a month and let it run for an hour or two to keep it fresh and carbon*free. Of course you would leave windows etc open and be outside or just direct your hose outside.
Knowledge is power. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the info!
Jenna- just found your channel- love it! You are living my dream.❤
Just stumbled on your site and am really enjoying it. I spend a lot of time in my trailer in the bush.
10 days without a single video!!! lets go Jenna !!! winter is around corner people will start getting heaters like this one and show them it isn't hard to set up and all even a girl can do it!!
Woohoo glad to see you back! I know you’re super busy with real life but miss when you don’t post
Very nice job Jenna! Been considering one of these for back up heat for our trailer for awhile now, just haven’t yet bit the bullet on getting one. The pump sound that everyone complains about is one of my issues, but I like your idea to have the unit outside and build a housing for it, maybe that will do the trick for us as well! Thanks for another informative and entertaining video!!
I have a diesel heater in my rv and love it. The difference is that you got the all in one unit, which obviously works differently mine does give temperature and I install it where the propane heater use to be. I love mine and it keeps this place warm when I'm not here to heat with my wood stove
Which one or brand is yours
@pauldonathan5316 vevor
It would work a lot better if you weren't trying to heat up the colder outside air. You need to pull your warmer inside air through the heater. Hook up a return or put the heater inside.
Yes but then she would need to leave a window partially open because the heater would then be consuming oxygen from the inside. People have died from not having adequate ventalation and using heaters that burn fuel and use up the oxygen. Letting the cold air in from outside would probably the off set any gain from having the heater inside using warmer air. But I'm not sure about that but I bet it would be close. EDIT. I was mistaken. Now that I gave my heater here and running, I see there is a seperate air intake just for the combustion chamber so with the heater outside, and or the combustion intake is outside, it will not consumr sny oxygen from inside.
It has an exhaust that can be routed outside to prevent that.@@OverlandOne
These heaters have 2 separate air systems. The combustion side, intake and exhaust under the unit, is completely sealed like your furnace, then there is the air exchanger which is from back to front, hot exhaust on the front and the intake on the back.
The unit is best outside, or at least using outside air for the combustion process and having the air for the exchanger drawn from the conditioned space inside the rv.
@@hobbyguy79 Yes, you are exactly correct. I was concerned about folks sticking the combustion intake inside and using up the oxygen. I forgot there is a seperate intake for the forced hot air side too. Thanks.
@@OverlandOne It's an RV, air will make its way inside to replace the combustion air. It doesn't consume anywhere near the amount of air a fireplace will take.
I would like to commend you on your efforts. Living that life style is not for the faint of heart. Being self sufficient is always a challenge. Ive been working on my homestead for almost 10 yrs now. From timber land to cabins/barns etc. I heat with wood. I do have power and city water. By my electric is very minimal compared to most. In the winter my bill will run about $50 to 60. In the summer with running several window ac units. 3 in the cabin. 1 in the barn and 1 in the she shead........my bill runs about 160. Im in the Cumberland plateau of Tennessee. I just bought a diesel heater similar to yours. Plan on trying it out for the winter. But again.....my main source of heat is wood. I have a very old Ashley wood stove that still works great. I burn about 8 rick of wood a winter. Thats about 2.5 cord for you.
Awesome! Keep on, keepin' on! 💪 🔥
Thank you for posting Jenna, you did a great job on the install. I did not know they made a all in one unit, this is something I will have to consider. Take care.
I love mine i sleep in the back of my ford 150 .i have a bed cover so i just set the unit on top of that cover and put the heat hose through my back slider window and my power supply i use battery cables. Good enough for camping the weekend. It cooks me out on the lowest setting...love the sound too.
You must like the sound of a ticking clock too eh? I find it hard to sleep with the sound but with my unit being outside I cant hear the sound from the bed lol
I have 2 diesel heaters in my rv and they work wonderful nice dry heat.i recirculate the cab air.i have one like yours to heat my shop as well and works fantastic
Jenna, nice informative video. You do make these DIY projects look easy. Take care and be nice to Hilbert, you may need him one of these days.
I have the kind with a smaller heater and an external tank, it fits right inside a metal mailbox. I connected some 3 inch insulated ducting to the mailbox and another to the heater and through the back of the mailbox, then put it on a post by my window. It's not as efficient as having it inside, but I want to make an enclosure that catches the exhaust heat too.
Hi Jenna, Not sure if this topic has been touched on or not.... Being diesel fueled and mounted outside you might want to ensure your fuel supply is for cold weather or unheated fuel. While it's operating and warm it probably won't be an issue but if it gets turned off and allowed to chill then the diesel fuel tends to "Gel" down to a thicker viscosity which the fuel pump (that big shiny round part you showed as the filter) will not have an easy time of pumping into the cauldron. Could cause the self check system to lock out operation until it senses easier fuel pump operation. Great idea as an addition to your heating options, I've read that those heaters once they reach operating temperature can be as efficient as less than half a litre per hour. Congrats on the acquisition !!
Tha ks for the info!
@@gypsyjenna My husband has had this problem in the past with his diesel truck. He adds "Cetain" to the tank to keep it from gelling. Maybe that'll help? Good luck!
Hey ledge ever heard of winter diesel? Probably not from your comment.
Hey Jenna, now that I have seen your other videos where your wood stove won’t keep up, then I remembered you said it’s to run when not home. I’ve seen others like Truck house life, that installed his inside with the fuel tank outside, which was a great idea.I’ll see some of your other videos to see if you kept the diesel heater
I hope you figured it out by now how to use it. but for anyone watching trying to decide if they want noe or not, these heaters work way better when installed inside, because it heats the warmer air inside room than the cold air outside. just make sure exhaust is routed outside and you have no leaks and get a carbon monoxide alarm just incase. these heaters are cheap in cost and work great if wood is not abundant in your area.
Another reason why the diesel heater doesnt compare to the wood stove is because you have it mounted outside. You have to warm up air that is very cold to begin with. If it was inside it would warm up already warm air and make it more efficient.
True. I may place the air intake inside so it can take already warm air
All the controllers allows you to set the temperature, look at videos on RUclips to figure out which software you have in your controller. Because there are at least 3 different firmware/software, each one has slightly different controls patterns.
The videos show you how to pair your remote.
Thanks, this video is older so I have sorted it all out since then
Another good show Jenna keep them coming Johno Alice Springs 👍
I think it was designed to run indoors and receive cold air from out side as well as running the exhaust out side there are lots of videos on installing these for heating shops and various work areas and even a few RV installs.
you are correct on that
Thank you ❤
Proud of the work you do for what you have and your not afraid of tackling jobs that most women are afraid of doing , my GF is a lot like you , I live about 6 hrs from her but I offer to come up and do things for her but she'll do it before I get there and it looks really good ❤️
Not to many women are like you 2 ladies ❤️
Nice job 👍 diesel additive will help when it gets real cold, just add some 2 the jug and it should'nt gel up on u. Thanks for the vid
Awesome, thanks!
I'm looking forward to your heater update video. Being a diesel unit you would think it would run a long time on a tank full. Great video Jenna ,thanks for sharing . Take care
24 hours per gallon
Been a while since you posted this so you may have figured it out already, but....I did the exact same thing for my trailer but had issues on the level of heat coming into the trailer. It was simply not as hot as it was when I tested it at the outlet. Turns out that I needed to insulate the pipe from the heater to the window. Because those flexible tubes are so thin, the air was cooling a little before it got into the trailer and therefor could not keep up. As soon as I insulated it (just used some fiberglass pipe insulation), it was GREAT and I could essentially run it on low in sub freezing temps and keep things warm (38 ft travel trailer).
Thanks for the tip :)
I hear ya on the camping 😄 Ever since I moved into my RV, I have not been out camping. Although sometimes it can feel like I am "camping". My RV is newer, 2018, but I am also starting to notice the propane heater sometimes does weird things. Good reminder to think of alternatives if mine ever goes out. Appreciate you trying things out, wished they worked better for you though!
Yeah. I had faith in you. If your like me. Everything turns into a freaking project. You are very self sufficient. Good job.
"I don't like reading directions" lol me neither, I do the same damn thing.
I like how you installed it thru the window. Jenna I am sure you will monitor temp all around , on wood etc. I remember installing diesel stove on boat, smoke us out at first until we got the gletchs out. So now you have 3 sources of heat. Wish I could send you some fire wood have plenty. I am sure you would make a good archer. Do you do any hunting for deer??
I don't hunt, but I love to fish!
Just stumbled on your channel. Love your little home.
I lived a similar lifestyle from 2006-2010 in an old motorhome and the woodstove was a game changer.
I’ll have to watch more of your videos but what about running the exhaust to a pipe that runs under the camper to help keep the tanks warm and not waste any heat plus you could put the air intake under there so it helps to make the heater more efficient.
Maybe you’ve done this already.
I’ll check out more of your vids.
great job you got heat stay warm
Another practical video brought to you by the "Nova Scotia super star".
I dig it.
Always been a "function over fashion" person. The install looks like something I would do, after all this type of heater can have so many other uses. I wouldn't want an install to be too permanent.
Didn't know they made an all-in-one unit. Just to inform. Furnace oil is basically Winter diesel with out the taxes. Summer diesel will gel in very cold weather. (you see white wax flakes floating in it)
Good luck with the unit and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tip on diesel! I will look into that!
Very nice job.
I am going to install that exact unit in my Van. I thought about putting it outside the Van but the problem is diesel fuel gels up when to gets down around 30° F or so. I guess I could add something to it to prevent that but i'd rather have it inside if I can. I may not have the room. Good job on the video.
I have heard people saying about diesel gelling but I have not had a problem and our winters get well below freezing here. Definitely something to look into
You are AMAZING good job.
There are a few good videos on RUclips to setup the controller and error codes, make sure you run it on high every couple of days to clean the unit out to
Just stumbled on this video, been wanting to order one myself, these heaters need alot of amps to start the glow plug. I'm currently using a propane cabinet heater for now.
thats an awesome job on the cut out wood for the window..i did a similar thing on a motor home once ..cut a hole in the center the right size and stuck the hose for a free standing a/c unit out it..worked like a dame..id it was about a three beer job..and please dont put that heater inside like the bulldogg below wants to..hes trying to kill you with possible fumes from a fuel spill..till then im gonna have a wobbly pop...
Looks awesome! Thinking if i should use one for my cabin. It is the only form of heat I do not have!
A problem that I have with my Propane furnace is Spiders. Spiders love the smell of propane and they build nest where your propane sensors are and sometime they will not light and just run fans where it blows cold air. Quite often I have to turn off the thermostat and restart it. It gets to be annoying through the night. I can't wait till spring when I can blow it out with my air compressor to get rid of the cob webs and spiders. I notice that it happens less and less as I keep killing spiders inside. I haven't seen spiders in awhile and I have not had to reset my furnace either. I assume that I purchased the spiders when I bought the camper. lol
Great setup👍
I was going to tell you to make sure you put an additive to your diesel fuel but someone beat me to it. The best way to do that is treat your 5 gallon container.
Nice! Love your videos
Thought about picking up one of those diesel heaters. Figured the ticking noise from the pump would keep me awake. I'm thinking moving that thing to fuel up will get old fast, yeah go with a hinged lid. Say, you could build a cover - shelter for those propane tanks to. ;)
Would be interested in an avg time the fuel tank lasts, cheers.
Just so that you can keep it so that it ain’t permanent instead of using silicone caulk use aluminum tape on both sides on the inside and the outside so then at least there ain’t a draft in there I know it works from experience because I live in a 40 foot shyster camper
Great video
Every impressive, thanks for the video I think I might do the same.
Looks fine.
You said you had puncture holes in your box!!!!! "That's what she said" lol
Considering that exhaust fumes rise, you may want to bend your exhaust that the outlet is above your intake.
The ones that go in our semis are 1500 cdn or more, hence why we call them cheap... I had one but sold it to my friend since he had no heat in his van...
Wow that is expensive! But probably very reliable
I don't own one of these, but I have seen a lot of videos on them, and one thing they mention is that the little muffler has a hole in it and you need to face that hole down so that water can weep out of it. If you have it the way it looks like in your video, it could fill with water and rot. Just something I have seen in other videos, I could be wrong. :)
Curious about your skirting. Do you have any insulation over vapor barrier on the ground? I was thinking of putting some attic radiant barrier down over the ground making an enclosed crawl space. Attic reflectors are really inexpensive
Unfortunately, I did not insulate my skirting. I would highly suggest it!
@@gypsyjenna thanks so much!
At the 2:10 mark , LMAO your funny , Hope you get this thing figured out. Take care
Recently found your channel. You are an intelligent woman.
I'm in the process of putting one of these in my outhouse. Like you l'm mounting it outside the building. I like the ability to turn it on from a distance.
Oh,l'm over here in northern Maine.
Practically a neighbour 👋
Thanks for being here
BEST TO READ the directions, and learn.....
10 days without a new video lol she must be really loving that diesel heater xD
you could use weather stripping instead of silicone
Très bonne installation Jenna peut tu me dire si on peu le laisser dehors se chauffage merci
Hopefully you've already found a few RUclips videos showing you how to modify the display on the controller.
I don’t know if you got my last message there are insulated blankets that wrap around the propane tanks that helps them from going low in the cold weather weather ps I am really learning a lot From youthank you
Thanks for the tip!
Hey lady! Love your channel. As another gypsy woman, I too am loving and living the trailer tiny house life. Curious if you linked the specific diesel heater you purchased? I'm thinking I'm gonna get one.
Thanks!
Thanks! And I will *try* to remember to link it in the next video! Had one or two others ask as well
heat is good nice job
Good job
secure it from thieves.i have a wood stove in mine but thinking about your set up
I can't believe you can't heat that space with that diesel heater. You can set the heater to use a thermostat setting instead of just using the Hz setting, but the heater (or atleast the controller) have to be inside to regulate the temp. You should easily be able to heat that small space with a diesel heater. I'm heating a 2 stall shop with mine.
This is an old video, first experience with it and figuring it out. But good for you, I'm glad to hear it heats your shop well 👍
Take out the furnace and pinch/solder those propane lines so the stove/fridge still work.
Don't pinch propane lines they make termination caps that screw on, much safer and you don't have to worry about leaks, its what I did when I removed the water heater, before getting the other one installed in the old shack. Still have that project ahead in the new one.
Those heaters are not designed to sit outside, the only part that should be outside is the exhaust, there is absolutley no reason for it to draw outside air.
The only thing mounting it that way will achieve is carbon inside the heat chamber and igniter failure!!
I've got one that I want to install but I'm torn on whether to install it in or outside of the trailer 🤔
Your cover for the heater should work just fine other than refueling.
TURN OFF THE TV, JENNA POSTED A VIDEO !!!!!!!...................LOL😉
Great concept. I wonder if it would work with a wood stove converted to do the same thing, with some ingenuity applied?
why didn't you go with a mr buddy convection propane heater no exhaust needed and has a thermostat go check out joe at st. bernard acers he put one in in his tiny cabin
I want to buy one of these heaters for back-up heat during power failures. Which all-in-one model (8KW) has the higher capacity fuel tank? The Low profile heater , or the Taller suitcase style heater?
I am unsure but I can tell u the one I have is a 5L tank. One gallon
Since you had this diesel heater for quite a while I was thinking about getting one for my camper I'm down here in Massachusetts it does get cold do you recommend diesel heater I've been trying the propane thing for the last couple years I want to switch over to a dryer heat.
I absolutely recommend the diesel heater. It does make a clicking sound but I have my unit outside and not close to the bedroom, so hardly hear it. It is definitely a dry heat unlike propane heat
@@gypsyjenna thank you for the feedback I like watching your videos I'm trying to do the off-grid living myself.
Best of luck to you, it can be a rewarding way to live!
Can never have too much energy. That said, it's getting chilly out there, best wait 'til spring thaw before you start building the windmill. Stay warm, Jenna!!
It’s a dryer vent.
Jenna, you screwed the boards down, why not get the hinge and fix it right. You will tire of pulling it out to fill. Hindsight is 20/20, lol
Hey, I don't pull it out to fill it. I am using a pocket pump to fill it. No heavy lifting to pour and no pulling the diesel heater out. This is probably an old video
please give us update on your heater adventure lol
Hello Jenna😊 is there a diesel smell when that is running?
I have noticed a little bit if one when it first fires up but none after that👍
insulate the heat pipe going into trailer
You tube how to pair. It's was quite easy
You can change it to C
It is now, thanks
Well I saw Wilbert so I can assume the gun is for chipmunk's and squirrel's they can be very destructive .
The one time I didn't double check something and I messed up so let me apologize to Hilbert I am sorry we're good now little buddy ? And about your " religious carton " you mention at the beginning of the video I will forever hold my piece .
Hey do you play any hockey up there??
I don't play hockey, but do enjoy a good winter skate!
major foul , you should be sucking air out of the trailer, as it is , you are heating outside ambient air, where as you need to be heating inside air. (two hoses, two elbows, two holes in the plywood !
Did you ever figure out how to properly run the heater
I keep waiting for someone to invent a low wattage propane furnace.
?? pretty much all propane heaters are low wattage or no wattage. problem with propane is cost, space, and non efficient.
@shanediggers2156 I believe he may be referring to the onboard propane furnaces of these RVs