Dude this is an awesome build!!! I have always wanted to build an old open wheeled racer. Like a 50s Indy car and make it street legal. Great work 👍I am impressed.
Hey Kyle make sure you pinion bearings will get oil. Flipping diff over is a pretty common thing just didn’t want you to fry the bearings. Great job on your videos
This build is awesome. There's something about building from an idea from scratch. Like basically the whole damn thing. You say you can't visualize stuff in your head, but you're pulling this off damn well.
F1 teams actually pay their engineers very poorly. The average Salary of an F1 engineer is like €20,000-€30,000 a year. It’s more of an internship than a real career for most. It’s extremely competitive to get into so the teams can get away with paying very little.
This is flat out bullshit, they make a minimum of $75k in 25th percentile so how do you figure they make little to no money? Then you have lead engineers that are paid anywhere between $175k-$200k
It’s insane to think an F1 car costs millions of dollars and the teams and drivers equipped with hundreds of thousands of dollars worth equipment and yet they pay equal to if not less than what most people make working fast food or retail jobs
Part 13 turned up in my recommended list today, rather than start with that i went to your playlist and started from the beginning and binged the lot. Was NOT disappointed what a great build, subscribing to see more.. Keep up the great work and thanks for posting!!!
Keep it up dude! I can't wait to see this car on track. Just a couple of points you may consider. 1. I would add a couple of light bends to the tube you're using to attach the rear shocks to the frame. Lay it over arching towards the rear of the car so it attaches to the frame slightly forward of where the shocks join it. That way, the force acting on it is looking to 'spread' the frame outward instead of trying to shear it off. 2. consider bracing the frame between the bell cranks as there is a huge amount of force trying to squeeze both sides of the frame together.
Love the build, but just a little suggestion, when you go back in to redo the rear with the bell crank, etc, realize it will need a similar amount of adjustment as the front has. You need rideheight adjustment as rake actually controls how much downforce your car is producing, and if you have a diffuser and wing, you may find the downforce to be too much and start scraping, ie you'd need to adjust rideheight and stiffness up, something a couple holes on the bell crank will not do. Better now as you're working it out than later when its painted and annoying to fix. Also with how your control arms are angled now you may even want to add adjustability to upper control arm positions so you can adjust camber gain among other things and potentially give you places to mount stuff to. Looking at it just from a glance I would think that you have excessive camber gain and probably want to raise ride-height or move the arm. Quick and easy things that allow you to get crazy in the future. Adjustability is the name of the game when you're building something untested as with any project no amount of R&D can predict how something will actually drive, thats why even in f1 they get cars that drive like shit and lose races after spending billions of dollars.
The best part about your winging it attitude to the suspension engineering is that you have the skills to change it “easily enough” if it doesn’t work.. keep it up, love watching the problem solving side of this build. 👍🏻
This has been my favorite series I've watched to date! My son and I are building a KJ cart right now and are both F1 fans. We've talked about this as being our next project! Thank you for your explanations of your mistakes as well as your successes! and for making it fun to watch!
You may have already thought about this, but make sure that flipping that Miata diff, and the reverse rotation, allows for the ring and pinion to be lubricated. Normally flipping the diff requires additional lubrication but the reverse rotation may cancel that out. I can’t visualize the internals of the Mazda differential off the top of my head. Awesome project! I’m subscribed and will catch up on the old videos.
Love the passion you have for all your projects, your work has improved so much, it’s been great watching you build so many things to a high standard 👏
Kyle; has drillpress Also Kyle: breaks 2 drills hand drilling a piece that would fit in the press with the table spun out of the way and a bit of shimming for level. :) This who love jest!
Great stuff, I love the approach you take by just diving in and not being afraid of mistakes. Just one technical thing that might be helpful: suspension should attach to a node and not a member of the frame. A node is where 2 or or more members meet. That way there won’t be as much flex
Tip. Check your plasma cut holes for taper as they sometimes need a to be cleaned out to get a bolt through easily, especially if you ever want to remove the bolts.
Couple things to think about, I don't love that rear diff mount, at the very least you need to sleeve the two bolt holes that go through the rear cross member. I would also add the same scalloped mount plate for the front mount of the rear shocks like you did in the front. And when you redesign the 'bell cranks' give yourself more than the two adjustment holes for the pushrod side. Between being able to change the geometry and the coilovers themselves you should be able to get that dialed in pretty well. When you're shooting from the hip like this lots of adjustability is your friend.
If you put rubber floor mats that they use at fast food restaurants onto a table it makes a very good grinding table, pieces won't try to jump away from the grinding due to the friction
i know that a lot of ppl probably wrote this to you but you will need to rebuild engine oiling system if you will leave it like that. The first cylinder will be left out of oil because of the design of the oil catch tank and oil nuzzles, same when it comes to clutch
You need to measure motion ratio on the front and rear wheels. Take the shock off. Support the chassis and suspension, then set the wheel at simulated ride height. Raise the wheel in .25" increments and measure change of length at the shock. I think you mentioned 1:1 before, but looking at your geometry you are going regressive. You want to be like .6:1 wheel to shock with rising in rate up to 1:1 before the car would bottom out. It would take a novel to explain why this is the case, but the radial tire you are using is a big part of that.
Fantastic work; I'll admit a little comedic when you made sure the diff could come out and then immeadiatly welded tabs for your suspension mounting in the way
Been following this whole build and i'm amazed that you even made it this far, without the cnc ❤. I actually believe that the back suspension is more in the correctish racing way stiff and the front therefore very soft. I don't think you want it to move that much by standing on it. Just a thought :D
Just make sure you do not overfill the diff with trans fluid, since it is supposed to be filled from the upper hole until it starts leaking from the hole itself
You might want the rears to be stiffer because most of the weight is in the rear and a lot of of the downforce (big wing) is in the rear so it makes sense in my brain lol. No engineer, just a thought. Love this build!
I would probably leave the front and rear suspension if I were you until I had a chance to drive it. As it stands you have a lot of weight close to the rear vs the weight towards the front so with an even stiffness suspension you would tend to be a little understeery. By softening up the front you're adding bite to the front wheels and taking some traction out of the rear which should help you to feel a little more oversteer then you would with just your feet in the front with the engine, diff and your body helping the rear stay where it is.
Diff is mounted incorrectly. If you stand between engine and diff, the output of the engine is anti-clockwise (turns to the left) when viewed from behind, and the Diff spins clockwise if you turn around and look at the input, which turns the outputs forwards 👍
this is my favorite series on this channel since the old LS videos that made me start watching you. This cars gonna be so sick once it can drive under its own power.
The pinion angle is important a line straight out of the diff must be parallel to a line straight out of the transmission. That's the simplest way I can put it here. There are videos on it you can look up.
The chassis side of the shock is not in a good spot. The angle of the shock to the bellcrank decreases away from 90° as the suspension gets more compressed. This will lead to a reducing rate spring and damper. Afaik you want the bellcrank angle at 90° at full compression.
this thing is so bad ass! more people need pushrods. when I decided to put them on my crosskart lot of people questioned it. now its all love! #CantileverGang
I’d like to see a comparison of the handling before and after you put webbing to brace your frame. And any suspension adjustment required to suit the stiffer webbed chassis! Loving your vids! 🏎💨😜
What is your plan for the sidepods? are you going to manufacture your own air intakes? bigger fueltank? (The one you got now is TINY), are you even gonna have sidepods? I’m genuinely curious
At 7:38 I was yelling at the screen when you were talking about having to flip the rearend over and move the breather to the bottom side because it was spinning the wrong way😅😂 I was trying to figure out in my head how you got a motorcycle engine that spins backwards but the wheel goes forward🤣 l was glad to see it was fixed later in the video.
I just want to mention.... Thus far everything is tack welded. Once you decide that you have it all where you wanted it, you are going to be welding for a week! All those tubes need welding! Just saying.... 😀
You need to make n anti squat anti dive suspension members. Also you should make shorter wishnones so the front wheels more in towards the chassis, the rear wheels should be wider than the front.
Put a bit of carpet down on your workbench and then the tabs and smaller pieces of metal ontop the carpet when grinding to stop them sliding around, idea courtesy of Colin Furze
Maybe it's just camera angle but the shot at 20:28 the left shock seems to be higher at the rear mount then the right side. Super effort though. Be safe and stay well.
Thanks for all your support so far! Pedals and driveline coming up next 😁
Loving the builds but I am missing the racing content
Nah bro is the racing content
Great vid Kyle the content-camera work & editing is notably better- keep it up !
Dam the dick jokes are getting old!!!
Dude this is an awesome build!!! I have always wanted to build an old open wheeled racer. Like a 50s Indy car and make it street legal. Great work 👍I am impressed.
Hey Kyle make sure you pinion bearings will get oil. Flipping diff over is a pretty common thing just didn’t want you to fry the bearings. Great job on your videos
This build is awesome. There's something about building from an idea from scratch. Like basically the whole damn thing. You say you can't visualize stuff in your head, but you're pulling this off damn well.
I really can't visualize in my head. It's why a lot of things are just kind of winging it 😁
This is how ALL racecars were built back in the day! In a shed or garage, thats why Enzo Ferrari called tham garagistas:)
F1 teams actually pay their engineers very poorly. The average Salary of an F1 engineer is like €20,000-€30,000 a year. It’s more of an internship than a real career for most. It’s extremely competitive to get into so the teams can get away with paying very little.
This is flat out bullshit, they make a minimum of $75k in 25th percentile so how do you figure they make little to no money? Then you have lead engineers that are paid anywhere between $175k-$200k
It’s insane to think an F1 car costs millions of dollars and the teams and drivers equipped with hundreds of thousands of dollars worth equipment and yet they pay equal to if not less than what most people make working fast food or retail jobs
But hey your literally working on F1 car the best of best car in the world your would be crazy
You can thank the budget cap for that
Part 13 turned up in my recommended list today, rather than start with that i went to your playlist and started from the beginning and binged the lot. Was NOT disappointed what a great build, subscribing to see more.. Keep up the great work and thanks for posting!!!
Tell your friends 😁😁 some weird dude in Canada is building stuff 😂
The most anticipated youtube video for me. I can’t wait to watch this one.
I really hope you enjoy it 😁
@@Boostedlifestyle it was great! can’t wait for more!
Keep it up dude! I can't wait to see this car on track.
Just a couple of points you may consider.
1. I would add a couple of light bends to the tube you're using to attach the rear shocks to the frame. Lay it over arching towards the rear of the car so it attaches to the frame slightly forward of where the shocks join it. That way, the force acting on it is looking to 'spread' the frame outward instead of trying to shear it off.
2. consider bracing the frame between the bell cranks as there is a huge amount of force trying to squeeze both sides of the frame together.
Love your videos, I want to become a race car mechanic eventually, so these videos are amazing to watch
Love the build, but just a little suggestion, when you go back in to redo the rear with the bell crank, etc, realize it will need a similar amount of adjustment as the front has. You need rideheight adjustment as rake actually controls how much downforce your car is producing, and if you have a diffuser and wing, you may find the downforce to be too much and start scraping, ie you'd need to adjust rideheight and stiffness up, something a couple holes on the bell crank will not do. Better now as you're working it out than later when its painted and annoying to fix.
Also with how your control arms are angled now you may even want to add adjustability to upper control arm positions so you can adjust camber gain among other things and potentially give you places to mount stuff to. Looking at it just from a glance I would think that you have excessive camber gain and probably want to raise ride-height or move the arm. Quick and easy things that allow you to get crazy in the future. Adjustability is the name of the game when you're building something untested as with any project no amount of R&D can predict how something will actually drive, thats why even in f1 they get cars that drive like shit and lose races after spending billions of dollars.
in love with this series, i look for an update literally every day. keep it up dude its awesome
Im working all the time trying to make the best video 😁😁
The best part about your winging it attitude to the suspension engineering is that you have the skills to change it “easily enough” if it doesn’t work.. keep it up, love watching the problem solving side of this build. 👍🏻
This has been my favorite series I've watched to date! My son and I are building a KJ cart right now and are both F1 fans. We've talked about this as being our next project! Thank you for your explanations of your mistakes as well as your successes! and for making it fun to watch!
You may have already thought about this, but make sure that flipping that Miata diff, and the reverse rotation, allows for the ring and pinion to be lubricated. Normally flipping the diff requires additional lubrication but the reverse rotation may cancel that out. I can’t visualize the internals of the Mazda differential off the top of my head.
Awesome project! I’m subscribed and will catch up on the old videos.
My favourite thing to watch at the moment is this series! Absolutely loving it! And the videos are only getting better👌🏻!
Love the passion you have for all your projects, your work has improved so much, it’s been great watching you build so many things to a high standard 👏
Kyle; has drillpress
Also Kyle: breaks 2 drills hand drilling a piece that would fit in the press with the table spun out of the way and a bit of shimming for level. :)
This who love jest!
She gonna fly 🚀🚀
Just remember that you are running on the back side of the ring gear with it upside down. Less than idea but it will work for you for awhile.
Great stuff, I love the approach you take by just diving in and not being afraid of mistakes. Just one technical thing that might be helpful: suspension should attach to a node and not a member of the frame. A node is where 2 or or more members meet. That way there won’t be as much flex
Tip. Check your plasma cut holes for taper as they sometimes need a to be cleaned out to get a bolt through easily, especially if you ever want to remove the bolts.
Couple things to think about, I don't love that rear diff mount, at the very least you need to sleeve the two bolt holes that go through the rear cross member. I would also add the same scalloped mount plate for the front mount of the rear shocks like you did in the front. And when you redesign the 'bell cranks' give yourself more than the two adjustment holes for the pushrod side. Between being able to change the geometry and the coilovers themselves you should be able to get that dialed in pretty well. When you're shooting from the hip like this lots of adjustability is your friend.
“Just break the wrist, and walk away.”😂 Great work, extra points for the Napoleon reference. 🎉
You are killing it! Fabrication and Editing is awesome! Keep on keeping on!
I agree. It pulls you in like a television series.
If you put rubber floor mats that they use at fast food restaurants onto a table it makes a very good grinding table, pieces won't try to jump away from the grinding due to the friction
Use a little oil and a center punch when drilling. Start slow with very little pressure.
i know that a lot of ppl probably wrote this to you but you will need to rebuild engine oiling system if you will leave it like that. The first cylinder will be left out of oil because of the design of the oil catch tank and oil nuzzles, same when it comes to clutch
You need to measure motion ratio on the front and rear wheels. Take the shock off. Support the chassis and suspension, then set the wheel at simulated ride height. Raise the wheel in .25" increments and measure change of length at the shock. I think you mentioned 1:1 before, but looking at your geometry you are going regressive. You want to be like .6:1 wheel to shock with rising in rate up to 1:1 before the car would bottom out. It would take a novel to explain why this is the case, but the radial tire you are using is a big part of that.
Fantastic work; I'll admit a little comedic when you made sure the diff could come out and then immeadiatly welded tabs for your suspension mounting in the way
YES! I binged all the other videos recently and have been going through withdrawals waiting for this!
Been following this whole build and i'm amazed that you even made it this far, without the cnc ❤. I actually believe that the back suspension is more in the correctish racing way stiff and the front therefore very soft. I don't think you want it to move that much by standing on it. Just a thought :D
Great to have seen your progress on the project and the progress in your editing and things like that, cudos!
Just make sure you do not overfill the diff with trans fluid, since it is supposed to be filled from the upper hole until it starts leaking from the hole itself
The quality of your videos has really gone up since i started watching! stoked on this project and excited to see more.
You might want the rears to be stiffer because most of the weight is in the rear and a lot of of the downforce (big wing) is in the rear so it makes sense in my brain lol. No engineer, just a thought. Love this build!
I would probably leave the front and rear suspension if I were you until I had a chance to drive it. As it stands you have a lot of weight close to the rear vs the weight towards the front so with an even stiffness suspension you would tend to be a little understeery. By softening up the front you're adding bite to the front wheels and taking some traction out of the rear which should help you to feel a little more oversteer then you would with just your feet in the front with the engine, diff and your body helping the rear stay where it is.
Tha amount your learning and testing and re doing never will cease to amaze me! Dude this thing is wildddd
Love all your content! Still amazed by what you can build and accomplish in your garage by yourself! #LifeGoals!
Can’t wait to see this on the track. Looking good!!
Diff is mounted incorrectly.
If you stand between engine and diff, the output of the engine is anti-clockwise (turns to the left) when viewed from behind, and the Diff spins clockwise if you turn around and look at the input, which turns the outputs forwards 👍
this is my favorite series on this channel since the old LS videos that made me start watching you. This cars gonna be so sick once it can drive under its own power.
LETS GOOOO KEEP THIS SERIES UP STAT
The pinion angle is important a line straight out of the diff must be parallel to a line straight out of the transmission. That's the simplest way I can put it here. There are videos on it you can look up.
To help with cleaning slag off small parts, look into a magnetic vise
I'm a mechanical engineer and you said "it's not really engineered". Nah, bro. You engineered that shit.
The chassis side of the shock is not in a good spot. The angle of the shock to the bellcrank decreases away from 90° as the suspension gets more compressed. This will lead to a reducing rate spring and damper. Afaik you want the bellcrank angle at 90° at full compression.
I'm actually going to redesign the whole belllcrank to make it and obtuse angle first and I'm going to add more leverage into the pushrod side
My sentiments exactly!
The best diy youtuber. Much love my canadian amigo
Love this series man! Keep up the great work! You are an inspiration to us all!
Great job man . Been watching you since the beginning. Amazing how far your skills have come along . Huge inspiration
Sick build. Keep it up and block out the haters.
this thing is so bad ass! more people need pushrods. when I decided to put them on my crosskart lot of people questioned it. now its all love! #CantileverGang
I would love to see this crosscart!! I'm planning on building one soon too 😁
I love this project so much, man!
Just want to say... KICK ASS BUILD!!! 👊👊👊👊
the last thing is the design for the bodywork
The quality of this video holy cow 🤯
Shout out to lex 😇
Kyle man. I can’t wait to see you ripping this that up the ally way. Hell yeah it’s bad ass
Hey I’m just wondering what plasma cutter you use?
I’d like to see a comparison of the handling before and after you put webbing to brace your frame. And any suspension adjustment required to suit the stiffer webbed chassis!
Loving your vids! 🏎💨😜
What is your plan for the sidepods? are you going to manufacture your own air intakes? bigger fueltank? (The one you got now is TINY), are you even gonna have sidepods? I’m genuinely curious
I wish I have the time and money for a shop some day so I can build something like this. Love the tube frame and suspension work.
Wait til you figure out why you should have centered the diff, and why you shouldn't have cut the mounting arms off it.
holy crap dude huge respect
Looking snazzy. Car looks good too
What is the ground clearance under the cockpit? Looks like any bump would make it bottom out... Build a skid pan etc?
At 7:38 I was yelling at the screen when you were talking about having to flip the rearend over and move the breather to the bottom side because it was spinning the wrong way😅😂 I was trying to figure out in my head how you got a motorcycle engine that spins backwards but the wheel goes forward🤣 l was glad to see it was fixed later in the video.
loving the content kyle. your by far my favorite content creator. been watching since the supra days bubba. keep it up 💯
tip next build dont use the pipe right away use some scrap tube's so that you wont buy mlre tubes if you didnt make a hoop or anything incorrectly
I like this
You are building an F1 car out of their garage, it looks amazing. Keep up the great work.
Really liking this build man. Keep it up. And ive noticed your editing has improved recently as well. Great work
Huge shout out to my new editor lex 😇
LETS GO NEW F1 CAR VID
Question...did you acount for the axles when you decided where your push rods were going?
Please add the MGU-K and MGU-H in the future. Use silicon carbide inverters for that 100 HP MGU-K boost.
As someone who has the handicraft skills on IKEA level and works with computers all the time, this is very impressive 😄
Awesome Project ! Ur editing and music Integration / montage is very nice . keep up the good work
That motor on that is way bigger than I'd thought it would be. Fucker is huge
love it!!!!!!!!!!!! cant wait to help film this :P
Damn kyle. This thingmacjigger looks friggin dope! Its gonna be mad in track
Man keep it up can't wait till you turbo this thing
20:40 I think there is something wrong with the rear lower arm installation, it makes the car suspension very hard.
What shocks are those? Im working on a build like this myself, and the coils i got are way too big
Awesome vid..... We need more vids more often... I'm always hanging to watch your next vid
Awesome build brother. I'm ready to see some of your foxbody build also
Hi, don’t suppose you have a list of your workshop machines, make of tube notcher, plasma table ect? Thanks
You have insanely clean welds. Hope I get to your skill level in fab and welding one day.
Looks like a good amount of Ackerman. Should be fun..!
I would use a Sikky Deff, yes they are pricy but would work great in this setup.
I just want to mention.... Thus far everything is tack welded. Once you decide that you have it all where you wanted it, you are going to be welding for a week! All those tubes need welding!
Just saying.... 😀
according to science one wheel will spin a little faster than the other
sweet build!
Don't push the drill bit into the metal, let the weight of the drill do the work when it's a really small bit ;)
Does the diff still come out with that shock mount welded above it?
Love the build tho.
You need to make n anti squat anti dive suspension members. Also you should make shorter wishnones so the front wheels more in towards the chassis, the rear wheels should be wider than the front.
Looking good thanks for sharing cheers 🇬🇧
I can't wait for you to drive this thing, I feel like Its going to blow you away
Put a bit of carpet down on your workbench and then the tabs and smaller pieces of metal ontop the carpet when grinding to stop them sliding around, idea courtesy of Colin Furze
That is actually super smart
Maybe it's just camera angle but the shot at 20:28 the left shock seems to be higher at the rear mount then the right side. Super effort though. Be safe and stay well.
one more step closer
Kyle and Geena y'all rock! Love the F1 build. Peace easy and get that v! Peace
Might wanna move that gas tank. Preferably higher than the difference.
Its a formula 3 old school man! From which car did you take the uprights and brakes? Very nice indeed