What amazes me is how you remember what goes with what putting it back together again and in what sequence. Us non-mechanics thinks this looks complicated.
all the connections are different and cannot go into the wrong place.. if you worry about putting it back together, take a picture of every step and how things came apart, look at them in reverse order to reassemble
Thank you Cherokee Ronnie because of you I have a Spartan locker in the front of my Jeep Cherokee now I'm gettin ready to fix my crack manifolds!!! You really are a true legend in my world to thanks for taking time to make these really really good videos!!!!
The one thing I suggest to other people (and it seems fairly simple to remember but I've messed up more times than I'd like to mention) but mark your injector sensors with tape and a sharpie haha.
look how filthy that throttle body is - also if anyone else is gonna do this follow the torque spec and sequence for the manifold bolts, DONT TIGHTEN THE END BOLTS FIRST LIKE HE DID, should be from center out.
Right . And do not use a razor like he did if you do not know what you are doing . Any slice can cause a leak if you do use a wire brush use a brass or softer material then your aluminum manifold: his will eventually leak from the midde
Thanks!....I watched another video like yours. I watched you guys maybe 4 or five times. I enjoyed it and finally changed mine two days ago....gud job.
I have a 91 in-line 4.0 I’m replacing the freeze plugs I got the five on the side of the engine block but the kit also comes with two smaller ones where did those go or are those five the only ones that will be affected by the coolant
reach under with a wrench - got mine from laying underneath, you can also get them from leaning over the front and reaching under. I couldnt get a socket to fit tho, had to be a box wrench and a cheater bar.
@@joeldallas6126 thanks man, I ended up using a ratchet wrench ..9 /16 ....changed head gasket , manifold gasket, did oil change and filter.....now my oil pressure is 80+...going to change the oil sending unit now and crank position sensor....found it's easier to change te he sensor from inside the jeep..
Hey Ronnie. On the rear part of the manifold near the firewall is that held on by a stud and nut or a bolt? I’m trying to track down a exhaust leak and i see either one is missing. Hoping it’s not a stud. Thanks
For anyone in the future There is 2 studs . Washer and nut size 15 I believe may be different on your model . 9 bolts 2 studs with nuts all have washers . This dude did everything backwards and wrong hurt to watch idk why i even watched
@@happyhermit6899broken motor mount caused engine to twist, check your motor mounts, if they are bad, especially the drivers side,your new manifold will crack.
i have a nice high pitched whistle when i let off the gas (usually at higher mph) kinda like a tea pot. could it be a loose intake/manifold bolts? i was told that was the problem. wanted someone else opinion before i rip my jeep apart
These things are some true pieces of shit. I have to the same to mine. How do you like those headers is there any performance gains and what brand header are you using.
@Norad Ragok, good question! I have an 01 with that set up, and I hear putting a header on will make it even more of a check engine light nightmare. I have a CEL every other day from the damn heat soak
Well let me tell ya from my experience with my 96 XJ 4.0 .. shit don't always go back together that easy and depending on your schedule and funds a mechanic may not be the worse choice. I myself... Struggle, cussing and busting my knuckles, order parts that are (supposed) to fit but don't always without some modifications... So shit 800 bucks sounds like a good idea.
Sorry but this video is not ok at all . Only if you want to mess up your engine in a couple months go ahead very sloppy . Carless and rushed. Please take your time this isnt a toy car
Hey I saw your comment about the bolts/studs being mixed up. About to do this job myself, couldn't tell you how much I'd appreciate it if you could mention some of the other things to look out for or even a more accurate video. I love wrenching on my jeep but if something can go wrong, it will go wrong with my luck haha. Thanks a million!!
Smoked Salmon sorry i forget to check my notifications. Its hard at first but then the 5 next times is easy . I actually was out of buget for gasket and all the tune up items so i cheaped it with the first manifold gasket got some leaks and re did it multiple times till my check came in .oh and DONT OVER TIGHTEN THE VALVE COVER BOLTS TO MUCH. Literally will feel the rubber hit its max squish . If you get that far
Smoked Salmon theres torque specs but honestly think it dont matter just that you follow from the middle outwards . Except the head bolts . Those are important to look up specific specs
Thanks for the detailed video, this is what I was looking for!
And we love the jeep very much, we have had it for 17 years.
What amazes me is how you remember what goes with what putting it back together again and in what sequence. Us non-mechanics thinks this looks complicated.
all the connections are different and cannot go into the wrong place.. if you worry about putting it back together, take a picture of every step and how things came apart, look at them in reverse order to reassemble
Thank you Cherokee Ronnie because of you I have a Spartan locker in the front of my Jeep Cherokee now I'm gettin ready to fix my crack manifolds!!! You really are a true legend in my world to thanks for taking time to make these really really good videos!!!!
The one thing I suggest to other people (and it seems fairly simple to remember but I've messed up more times than I'd like to mention) but mark your injector sensors with tape and a sharpie haha.
About to tackle mine, gonna take a lot of cussin' and a lot of beer!
Thanks for the detailed video!
look how filthy that throttle body is - also if anyone else is gonna do this follow the torque spec and sequence for the manifold bolts, DONT TIGHTEN THE END BOLTS FIRST LIKE HE DID, should be from center out.
Right . And do not use a razor like he did if you do not know what you are doing . Any slice can cause a leak if you do use a wire brush use a brass or softer material then your aluminum manifold: his will eventually leak from the midde
Best video i have seen on this job
Great video! But make sure that the exhaust manifold studs are torqued to 23ft/lb they are very fragile
Thanks!....I watched another video like yours. I watched you guys maybe 4 or five times. I enjoyed it and finally changed mine two days ago....gud job.
Doing this work with out a breaker bar got me at awe, i could never
Great video, check your motor mounts, if they are bad your new manifold will crack at the lower junction.
Great video! Hope my replacement shuts down the leaks! Will watch other vids to help me out!! Thanks!!!
Thanks for video, was a huge help! Took me and my son 4 hours
That throttle body needs some love.
You should see how hard it is to remove the intake manifold when the supercharger resting on it it weighs 75 pounds
Thank you man. I have a new header. Saturday i pick up everything else for a brand new exhaust. Cheers!
My intake now has a huge air leak and redlines on start up.... could you do a video on bolting the intake back up?
did you ever figure this out? I have the same problem now
Nice video very thorough how long about an hour keep up the good work
What brand header did you use?
I have a 91 in-line 4.0 I’m replacing the freeze plugs I got the five on the side of the engine block but the kit also comes with two smaller ones where did those go or are those five the only ones that will be affected by the coolant
Done mine a few years back had the rear ex bolt break down in the head so pulled head and replaced valve stem seals while I had it off
How hard is it to change the valve steam seals? Can it be done by simply removing the cover?
Did you have to depressurize the fuel rail do to this or not?
Yes
How do you get the bolts off from under the intake....I'm stuck
reach under with a wrench - got mine from laying underneath, you can also get them from leaning over the front and reaching under. I couldnt get a socket to fit tho, had to be a box wrench and a cheater bar.
@@joeldallas6126 thanks man, I ended up using a ratchet wrench ..9 /16 ....changed head gasket , manifold gasket, did oil change and filter.....now my oil pressure is 80+...going to change the oil sending unit now and crank position sensor....found it's easier to change te he sensor from inside the jeep..
Hey Ronnie. On the rear part of the manifold near the firewall is that held on by a stud and nut or a bolt? I’m trying to track down a exhaust leak and i see either one is missing. Hoping it’s not a stud. Thanks
For anyone in the future There is 2 studs . Washer and nut size 15 I believe may be different on your model . 9 bolts 2 studs with nuts all have washers . This dude did everything backwards and wrong hurt to watch idk why i even watched
an hour project?
right. i played the fuck fuck game for 30 min with the power steering pump alone.
What year is that jeep?
Great video sir salute
"Takes about an hour"
I did tighten it really good I just don't understand
how long it take to remove and replace? and why do they crack ?
Tony Saprano they crack due to the number of heat cycles. Any metal is only good for so many.
@@happyhermit6899broken motor mount caused engine to twist, check your motor mounts, if they are bad, especially the drivers side,your new manifold will crack.
i have a nice high pitched whistle when i let off the gas (usually at higher mph) kinda like a tea pot. could it be a loose intake/manifold bolts? i was told that was the problem. wanted someone else opinion before i rip my jeep apart
will dawson same.
Cold be also a faulty fuel inyector
Just check voltage to the inyector.
I bought a new manifold for my 1998 jeep cherokee new gasket and it's still leaking and I cannot figure out why
Did you tighten it down good
there is also a torque sequence that you should fallow for installing things like this
Absolutely appreciate this video thank you, thumbs up.
Great video! Keep it up. Thanks.
hey man. why did you plug the hose that goes to the overflow?
These things are some true pieces of shit. I have to the same to mine. How do you like those headers is there any performance gains and what brand header are you using.
I never felt any different it makes that 4.0 sound better though
what size and lenth bolts are they on the down pipe i think im going to get a stainless set
How do you keep guys install one of these header on a 2001 with the crazy dual cats? Thanks.
@Norad Ragok, good question! I have an 01 with that set up, and I hear putting a header on will make it even more of a check engine light nightmare. I have a CEL every other day from the damn heat soak
good job brotha, thanks.
well done !
My mechanic wants like $800 to fix manifold
P. Lanz same
Well let me tell ya from my experience with my 96 XJ 4.0 .. shit don't always go back together that easy and depending on your schedule and funds a mechanic may not be the worse choice.
I myself... Struggle, cussing and busting my knuckles, order parts that are (supposed) to fit but don't always without some modifications... So shit 800 bucks sounds like a good idea.
What a massive pain in the arse this job is :/
Sorry but this video is not ok at all . Only if you want to mess up your engine in a couple months go ahead very sloppy . Carless and rushed. Please take your time this isnt a toy car
Hey I saw your comment about the bolts/studs being mixed up. About to do this job myself, couldn't tell you how much I'd appreciate it if you could mention some of the other things to look out for or even a more accurate video. I love wrenching on my jeep but if something can go wrong, it will go wrong with my luck haha. Thanks a million!!
Smoked Salmon sorry i forget to check my notifications. Its hard at first but then the 5 next times is easy . I actually was out of buget for gasket and all the tune up items so i cheaped it with the first manifold gasket got some leaks and re did it multiple times till my check came in .oh and DONT OVER TIGHTEN THE VALVE COVER BOLTS TO MUCH. Literally will feel the rubber hit its max squish . If you get that far
Smoked Salmon theres torque specs but honestly think it dont matter just that you follow from the middle outwards . Except the head bolts . Those are important to look up specific specs