Currently tourbleshooting my generator so I am learning a lot from this video. It seems like a lot of these generators are the same even if manufactured by different companies. No spark also. Its a journey.
Kudos to your 10 year old son, and you as well. The apple didn’t fall far from the tree. I love his helping hands invention! Seems like he’s gonna be a great mechanic, or engineer. Thank you for the great video!
Went thru just about the exact same steps and processes prior to watching this video. Almost scary how similar it was lol. But none the less i got to the point where disconnecting the wire from the on/off switch had the engine running, but as soon as i connected the wire it killed it. I also tried disconnecting from the sensor itself but that had no effect just like yours. And mine also did not register grounded to the chassis when i tried to test the module. This must be a common thing for this sensor. BUT i must say thank you, for confirming my suspicions, as well as sharing that part. That seems like a perfect swap, and more available. Thank you!! This video was perfect.
Those helping hands your son made for you are pure genius. Simple, easy to make with stuff you have in your house, and just works. Just made a set for myself but added an extra clothes clip on a flexible stalk I had so I can attach it to a firm point to hold it steady. Better be careful or your son will get more popular then you.
I depotted an aftermarket oil level sensor module once. It was just a 5 ohm resistor and a diode in series, with the diode negative away from the crankcase switch. If you test with your meter on diode, you'll see a 0.5v diode drop from the crankcase switch and OL in the opposite direction. Mine tested 5k ohms across the module. I see two possible scenarios as to why you didn't see the module grounded out. 1. there was a circuit but the resistance was higher than your meter reads as continuity. Some meters don't show the resistance in continuity. 2. The short was on the positive side of the diode, but the diode was intact so you got OL.
This one had me stumped for a couple minutes. Your video confirmed what I was thinking. I am still stumped as to why it will not show grounded on my meter.
As always, excellent video and detail. This video helped me with mine with the oil sensor. PO cut the wires. The thing is, is there was nothing wrong with it. I rewired it and worked like a charm 😊 Thanks Jim for sharing your experience.
Thanks! I have this same generator. It had sit for a very long while with fuel in it. I follow you cleaning instructions for the carbarator plus cleaned the tank. It not works fine. Keep making these videos there great I watch all of them. Bless you. 🇺🇸
I have that exact generator , bought it in the 2008 ice storm here in Boston. I keep it stored with TruFuel and use Mobil 1 oil. I wax it every summer and still looks/ works perfect. Love your vids 👍
I commented on one of your other videos that talks about the oil sensor. I have an almost identical model to this Craftsman but a Troy-Bilt. I have the same issue with intermittent spark. Thank you for the part number. This is probably exactly what I need. And when your son starts mass-producing "Helping Hands", I'll be placing an order.
thank you for this video. I learned something new. And kudos to your son for the helping hands tool. That in itself is a cool invention that all DIYers should have in their tool box.
Glad I watched this one specifically for Briggs and Stratton because just unhooking the wire from sensor doesn’t work have to remove the white one like you did thanks 👍
spent several hours till i tracked my no start problem to the low oil switch. keep in mind some will shut down on overfill as well. could happen if the fuel is left on and the seat is not good. nice informative video.
You just saved me $800.00 for a new generator, After an hour of troubleshooting and switching out the gas, I went right for the problem you detected and disconnected the oil sensor. It started right up.😊
James, thank you so much for this awesome video. I have a generator just like yours and could not get it to start. Hadn't run it for about 5 years. Turns out oil sensor was OK but the carb main jet was all plugged up. Your disassembly and cleaning of the carb was spot on for me and saved the day. Got those studs out with double nuts. After reassembly it started on the first pull. Thank you!!
Thanks for the great video. Special thanks for sharing the tin foil trick as an easy and cheap way to remove surface rust. I tried that on my 13 HP Briggs and the muffler guard came out looking like new with just a few minutes of scrubbing (and it cost nothing). Can't believe I've been working on cars and motorcycles all my life and never before seen this tip. It's gems like this that make RUclips instructions so valuable.
Usually, your audio and video are excellent. In this one, the audio sounds distant and a little muffled. It sounds like you've changed your microphone. You've also added music. I've liked your videos partially because there are no swirling logos, music, and unnecessary distractions. I'm repairing a Generac 5,000 watt machine that's been stored for about 5 years with gas in it. I'd guess it's about 20 years old. Your videos have been a great help with troubleshooting.
Very nicely done I’m having the same issue only it’s the sensor in the engine that’s gone bad. I believe you have to go internal to change it out however it will run just disconnected
You are correct. Not worth opening a good engine to replace the sensor. Most Briggs Storm Responder Generators do not have a sensor at all. As long as you check the oil, it should be fine.
Get a Mr Funnel on Amazon, about $15.00 for the one i got. Man, it will definitely separate out the water from the gas. I’m digging the soldering jig, that’s definitely a Saturday project.
Looks very much like a Troybilt job to me James, I have a TroyBilt 5500 same set up in the gen, a rectifier diode bridge on back of brush-holder a 91825GS available at home depot for 32$.
I know it sounds crazy but I put a toggle switch in the wire to bypass low oil shut down It’s like a fast test and don’t require any time or tools Also keep my funnel in two plastic bags
James: Thank you for your videos, which I have found very instructive and helpful. Your video production is first rate. I have a request....Please REMOVE THE MUSIC TRACK....It's irritating and detracts from your presentation.
I understand there is a diode hooked in with some of these gens, LOS (low oil switch) the diode could be in a small silver box and that the diode can go bad, killing the spark.
I am working on my genrator identical to this model except Coleman branded. I have sort of the opposite issue. when I flip the switch to off it doesn't kill the motor. I wonder what the issue may be. I haven't really dug into it yet. Great work by the way.
you definitely don't have to take the carb off to get the cover off, just the air filter, then the 3 bolts fo rthe cover, and pull it downwards, it comes right off.
Great video James. I have the same generator and I thought you had solved my problems. Mine runs for 1 minute then shuts down. I thought the float bowl was running dry. I pulled the oil pressure wire off as you did and it ran ... and then shut down after the 1 minute. So I'm back to the gas problem. I'll be pulling off the carb and looking at the needle valve seat. Maybe some obstruction behind the seat and not letting enough fuel through. My generator is really brand new though. Probably 30 minutes on it total. Just shooting at things that are probably fine. Any other tips would be great.
@@jcondon1 I found lots of tiny bits of "sand"... grit.... apparently blocking the needle valve seat. It took me about 5 times of dropping out the needle valve and running gas through to get it clear. So now it runs continuously.... except I have to have the choke all the way closed... So it's way too lean. I now know the float bowl is filling properly. My problem now is in the carb. I ran a wire through every orifice and they all seemed clear. I think my problem is now the orifice plug on the bowl, (Mine is slightly different than yours). It's clear but perhaps "too clear" as my wire now goes in one of the holes when it didn't fit in it before. A bit strange. I think this one is mine. www.powertoolreplacementparts.com/briggs-stratton-494870-jet-main/?gclid=CjwKCAjw74b7BRA_EiwAF8yHFC--sPmuHrtOnmxFuiAJgz5cC7OF4njE3dHgJq7qp3tN8_iZiQjwFxoCJXAQAvD_BwE I'm sure putting in alot of time on a generator that is brand new.
Great vid, Just subbed. But still unsure of the operation of the sensor and diode combination. If I put my meter on sensor wire and ground I get open, however when I tilt or tip the engine to simulate low oil it remains open. What am I missing? The diode unit when tested shows continuity one way and reversing leads shows open thru the unit itself.
The oil system has two components. First it the oil float switch inside the engine. You should be able to test that as you did and see the circuit close when low oil exists. Because it’s a float it may not work by tilting the generator. Most likely you have to drain the oil to test. The other component is the little module outside the engine. One wire is connected to the primary on the ignition coil. That is how it grounds out spark, but the primary also acts as generator and powers the low oil module. I am not sure a procedure to test that, but it is more then a diode in there.
@@jcondon1 Thanks for the info and I did giean a lot of what you state from other tubbers. Actually I am trying to trouble shoot the generator using the same setup on a 5.5 GX, I had gifted to me, and not concerned about flipping that unit 180 to test. will keep you posted.
I have a Generac 5000 with a Briggs motor. The low oil sensor switch is bad, removed wire and it started. Now I want to get the switch I called Generac they said it’s a discontinued part no longer available I checked eBay and nobody has it so I guess I’ll just run it with the wire off and make sure I have checked the oil level. The part # is in book as 88977, new part # is BS8977AGS. Guess I’ll never buy another Generac product!
The sad thing is Generac is one of the few companies that sell parts. I took a quick look. Will this the one you need? www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-Briggs-and-Stratton-Engine-Motor-Oil-Guard-Kit-398182-298182-496605-/184276130095?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I have watched many of your videos and this carb. with the plastic where the float goes has a spring in bowl to hold up the plastic. But on other videos with the same type carb. some don't use the spring in the bottom of the bowl. Is that normal?
Hey James what that black wire run too ? I got same problem ? On Coleman 6250 generator ?I took the white off no spark ? Then the red one no spark ? Then the black i took off from the switch to coil fire right up? But that wire is coming off.the coil ? On mine no sure is it the box or coil that problem ?
Interesting video. What is the function of the oil module? Do other manufacturers utilize a module as well? I'd assumed it was the low oil switch that directly grounded the coil in a low condition.
I wondered the same thing. From what I have seen they all do (Honda/Subaru/Briggs/Chinese Clones). Maybe not all, I did work on an older Briggs L-Head recently and there was no module just the switch. The switch does ground out when low. I think the module does two things 1) it provides a delay of a few seconds. It is normal as the oil is splashing around to potentially get intermittent ground signals from the switch even though the oil is not low. 2) the grounding out of the coil is performed by the oil module instead of the switch. That reduces the current going though the switch and increases the life of it.
What would be a common problem on a westinghouse 9500 dual fuel that only runs on propane but when switched to gas it doesn’t run its a brand new generator btw i just received it a few days ago
Thats why i couldn't get the card offf ,hhhmmm,but i got the engine with missing valve spring ,and missing valve stem seal ,sears wants me to buy the kit with valve and spring with the seals .however i dont want valve,all i need is the seal ,and its the same engine that your working on ,do u have any idea how i can get the correct valve stem seal? thanks in advance
I'm looking for a segment on converting a regular gas fueled generator, over to Natural Gas/ propane fuel use, where it can be used with all 3 gasses. Any segments showing installation kits?
@@jcondon1 Thanks for the reply, James. I'll switch over and watch the video. Brother in law wants to add on the conversion kit to his new machine, so he can use it in 3 ways, natural gas, propane, or regular fuel. It's a "Campion" 5000 watt unit he picked up brand new about a month ago. Kind regards
James. Just found your channel a subbed. Question. Do you have a link to where you bought the little tools you use to clean out the orifices of the carburetor? Thanks.
Should have a link in my web store at www.Amazon.com/shop/jamescondon. I think this is what you are looking for Carburetors Carbon Dirt Jet Remove Cleaner, 13 Cleaning Wires Set + 10 Cleaning Needles + 5 Nylon Brushes Tool Kit for Welder Carb Chainsaw Spray Guns Torch Tips Firing Hole Stove Burner Holes www.amazon.com/dp/B08JYQGS1X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6J2XKWC34NVXRVF2F69A
Correct. It is bad for the power head and can send surges damaging electronics. Also it can remove residual magnetism. With that said, the light is only a 50 watt resistive load. It has never caused an issue.
This is a great video. I am having trouble finding where the middle black cable from the switch needs to connect to. Mine got pulled out. Does anyone know?
Thank you James. I looked and found the other end of the wire. Was able to then easily get my generator working again. Thanks for all your help. By the way your son is very creative. Thanks.
Hey James, this is the exact same generator I have. Question. I'm having trouble pulling the rope to start mine. it worked fine a few months ago. Now it will pull easy for a foot or so then get real hard to pull. I did get it started and let it run for 40 minutes but its still hard to pull. Through my research I came to the conclusion I have a broken compression trigger on the cam shaft. What are your thoughts? Thanks again.
Is it easy to pull with the spark plug removed? If so then it is the compression release. Check the exhaust valve clearance. If excessive then that would also cause the issue. Think the clearance should be 0.005”
@@jcondon1 exhaust appears to be fine. I ran it for 40 minutes after struggling to get it started. yes it’s easy to pull the starter cord with the plug out. Do you know exactly what cam shaft this model engine takes? And thanks for your reply. I really appreciate your time.
@@jcondon1 ok. I can check the valve clearance once I get time to pull it apart. But would it still run if the exhaust valve clearance if off? Thanks again.
@@mikepizzolatto5201 yes, but if too much clearance the pushrod will eventually fall out. See the end of my lifan part 2 video and the start of part 3. Clearance was ok on that one but the exhaust valve was causing the compression release to not release.
Currently tourbleshooting my generator so I am learning a lot from this video. It seems like a lot of these generators are the same even if manufactured by different companies. No spark also. Its a journey.
Just another big 'Thank You' for empowering us all to make these repairs ourselves. Well done.
I like your son's helping hands gift. I've at times been in the same position needing to solder wires together.
yeah,I'm going to build one of those. a wide craft stick and two spring clothespins,some glue.. James's son is going to go far.
@@JayWye52 Ingenious idea for a helping hand. Smart kid !
Kudos to your 10 year old son, and you as well. The apple didn’t fall far from the tree. I love his helping hands invention! Seems like he’s gonna be a great mechanic, or engineer. Thank you for the great video!
This guy does the best videos for craftsman generators speaks no bs just gets to the points thank you saved my 11000 hp craftsman generator
You’re hand is a son that is a brilliant genuis that had a smart idea and is a brilliant genius that has hands 🙌
Went thru just about the exact same steps and processes prior to watching this video. Almost scary how similar it was lol. But none the less i got to the point where disconnecting the wire from the on/off switch had the engine running, but as soon as i connected the wire it killed it. I also tried disconnecting from the sensor itself but that had no effect just like yours. And mine also did not register grounded to the chassis when i tried to test the module. This must be a common thing for this sensor. BUT i must say thank you, for confirming my suspicions, as well as sharing that part. That seems like a perfect swap, and more available.
Thank you!! This video was perfect.
Those helping hands your son made for you are pure genius. Simple, easy to make with stuff you have in your house, and just works. Just made a set for myself but added an extra clothes clip on a flexible stalk I had so I can attach it to a firm point to hold it steady. Better be careful or your son will get more popular then you.
Glue some magnets on the stick as well
That was great thinking on your sons parts! Excellent job
I depotted an aftermarket oil level sensor module once. It was just a 5 ohm resistor and a diode in series, with the diode negative away from the crankcase switch. If you test with your meter on diode, you'll see a 0.5v diode drop from the crankcase switch and OL in the opposite direction. Mine tested 5k ohms across the module. I see two possible scenarios as to why you didn't see the module grounded out. 1. there was a circuit but the resistance was higher than your meter reads as continuity. Some meters don't show the resistance in continuity. 2. The short was on the positive side of the diode, but the diode was intact so you got OL.
This one had me stumped for a couple minutes. Your video confirmed what I was thinking. I am still stumped as to why it will not show grounded on my meter.
Thanks James, I disconnected the white wire from the on off switch and the generator started.
Your son's idea was great and workable.
What a great Idea your son came up with. I’m definitely going to copy that one 👍
Definitely inspired me on looking after the oil sensor. Now the generator works again. Thanks.
That's a wonderful helping hand...!💪
I love the helping hands your son made for you! Sounds like he’s learning from Dad!
That is a high dollar third hand you have there. I like it.
As always, excellent video and detail. This video helped me with mine with the oil sensor. PO cut the wires. The thing is, is there was nothing wrong with it. I rewired it and worked like a charm 😊
Thanks Jim for sharing your experience.
Thanks! I have this same generator. It had sit for a very long while with fuel in it. I follow you cleaning instructions for the carbarator plus cleaned the tank. It not works fine. Keep making these videos there great I watch all of them. Bless you. 🇺🇸
Thanks Jeffrey! Glad to here.
hi james good easy fix ,liked your son helping hand so made one myself
just like father just like son pure genius .great video thank you
Thanks
I have that exact generator , bought it in the 2008 ice storm here in Boston.
I keep it stored with TruFuel and use Mobil 1 oil. I wax it every summer and still looks/ works perfect.
Love your vids 👍
claddagh1000 thanks
Best way to judge faults and reach to conclusion. Best regards and best of luck. I wonder if some day you show the wirings of clone generator.
Youre son is a hand son genius with good ideas I will use
I commented on one of your other videos that talks about the oil sensor. I have an almost identical model to this Craftsman but a Troy-Bilt. I have the same issue with intermittent spark. Thank you for the part number. This is probably exactly what I need. And when your son starts mass-producing "Helping Hands", I'll be placing an order.
thank you for this video. I learned something new. And kudos to your son for the helping hands tool. That in itself is a cool invention that all DIYers should have in their tool box.
lol that 3rd hand is genius why i havent thought that , gotta make one when next time soldering :D
Glad I watched this one specifically for Briggs and Stratton because just unhooking the wire from sensor doesn’t work have to remove the white one like you did thanks 👍
Your son's a genius!...
Thanks. That comment made him smile.
spent several hours till i tracked my no start problem to the low oil switch. keep in mind some will shut down on overfill as well. could happen if the fuel is left on and the seat is not good. nice informative video.
Thanks
Thank you!!!! Saved my bacon this weekend with Elsa on the way!!!!
I have the exact same model with same issue but haven't got a chance to look in to it thanks for this vid
I just ran into the exact same issue on the same model generator. The low oil level switch is okay but that module kills spark. Thank you for sharing.
You just saved me $800.00 for a new generator, After an hour of troubleshooting and switching out the gas, I went right for the problem you detected and disconnected the oil sensor. It started right up.😊
Nice
Thanks, just got the generator running and put the not-needed replacement coil on the shelf.
James, thank you so much for this awesome video. I have a generator just like yours and could not get it to start. Hadn't run it for about 5 years. Turns out oil sensor was OK but the carb main jet was all plugged up. Your disassembly and cleaning of the carb was spot on for me and saved the day. Got those studs out with double nuts. After reassembly it started on the first pull. Thank you!!
Nice!
Thanks for the great video. Special thanks for sharing the tin foil trick as an easy and cheap way to remove surface rust. I tried that on my 13 HP Briggs and the muffler guard came out looking like new with just a few minutes of scrubbing (and it cost nothing). Can't believe I've been working on cars and motorcycles all my life and never before seen this tip. It's gems like this that make RUclips instructions so valuable.
You’re son is a genuis that had a brilliant idea 💡 amazing 🤩
And he also has hands 🙌
Adding the music is a nice touch ..
Thank you! I was about to drop mine off and have someone else diagnose and fix this!
Both you and your son are frick'n brilliant!
Thank you so much for posting this it was my exact problem and I would’ve never found it! Runs like new now!
Great to hear!
Usually, your audio and video are excellent. In this one, the audio sounds distant and a little muffled. It sounds like you've changed your microphone. You've also added music. I've liked your videos partially because there are no swirling logos, music, and unnecessary distractions. I'm repairing a Generac 5,000 watt machine that's been stored for about 5 years with gas in it. I'd guess it's about 20 years old. Your videos have been a great help with troubleshooting.
Very nicely done I’m having the same issue only it’s the sensor in the engine that’s gone bad. I believe you have to go internal to change it out however it will run just disconnected
You are correct. Not worth opening a good engine to replace the sensor. Most Briggs Storm Responder Generators do not have a sensor at all. As long as you check the oil, it should be fine.
You videos have helped me fix a lot of my own stuff thank you so much
my craftsman generator
needed a new carb.
cleaned the outside with
break clean .. the dirt
flushed into the carb..
thank you very much my God bless unpluged oil sensor and one pull and started right up
Really nice work in diagnosing the issue, great vid, thanks, 👍👍
Get a Mr Funnel on Amazon, about $15.00 for the one i got.
Man, it will definitely separate out the water from the gas.
I’m digging the soldering jig, that’s definitely a Saturday project.
Wow! Best tip ever. Thanks!
You can replace the studs that hold the carburetor with normal ones and use the nuts from the inside the air filter box to hold it in place.
Looks very much like a Troybilt job to me James, I have a TroyBilt 5500 same set up in the gen,
a rectifier diode bridge on back of brush-holder a 91825GS available at home depot for 32$.
some places wanted 60$ for it, My dad says ya gotta shop around!
I know it sounds crazy but I put a toggle switch in the wire to bypass low oil shut down
It’s like a fast test and don’t require any time or tools
Also keep my funnel in two plastic bags
Great videos. I learn so much from them.
thanks
Great job, easy to watch, very enjoyable!
Jordan Gross thanks!
James: Thank you for your videos, which I have found very instructive and helpful. Your video production is first rate.
I have a request....Please REMOVE THE MUSIC TRACK....It's irritating and detracts from your presentation.
Going to copy your son's genius idea. Thank you
I understand there is a diode hooked in with some of these gens, LOS (low oil switch) the diode could be in a small silver box and that the diode can go bad, killing the spark.
The oil sensor, for example, could be a resistor that changes value with temperature. Run a current and the module checks for fluid cooling.
Great son you have!!!!
Maybe I missed it but since you removed the fuel tank, did you also drain and clean it? Great video, thanks
I really hate when these companies discontinue parts 4 something like that
I am working on my genrator identical to this model except Coleman branded. I have sort of the opposite issue. when I flip the switch to off it doesn't kill the motor. I wonder what the issue may be. I haven't really dug into it yet. Great work by the way.
Most likely a bad switch or a wire may have become disconnected.
That might be my problem. Oil sensor, replaced coil like everybody says….still no spark. Took it to repair shop today.
Wow I didn't know about that oil module thing good to know thanks man. I like the tunes that ya play good tunes.
Thanks
Well done!!
Thanks
I have the same generator...unhooked the low oil sensor years ago. It went bad
you definitely don't have to take the carb off to get the cover off, just the air filter, then the 3 bolts fo rthe cover, and pull it downwards, it comes right off.
Great video James. I have the same generator and I thought you had solved my problems. Mine runs for 1 minute then shuts down. I thought the float bowl was running dry. I pulled the oil pressure wire off as you did and it ran ... and then shut down after the 1 minute. So I'm back to the gas problem. I'll be pulling off the carb and looking at the needle valve seat. Maybe some obstruction behind the seat and not letting enough fuel through. My generator is really brand new though. Probably 30 minutes on it total. Just shooting at things that are probably fine. Any other tips would be great.
The carb is normally the issue. Also check the fuel flow through the line from the tank.
@@jcondon1 I found lots of tiny bits of "sand"... grit.... apparently blocking the needle valve seat. It took me about 5 times of dropping out the needle valve and running gas through to get it clear. So now it runs continuously.... except I have to have the choke all the way closed... So it's way too lean. I now know the float bowl is filling properly. My problem now is in the carb. I ran a wire through every orifice and they all seemed clear. I think my problem is now the orifice plug on the bowl, (Mine is slightly different than yours). It's clear but perhaps "too clear" as my wire now goes in one of the holes when it didn't fit in it before. A bit strange. I think this one is mine.
www.powertoolreplacementparts.com/briggs-stratton-494870-jet-main/?gclid=CjwKCAjw74b7BRA_EiwAF8yHFC--sPmuHrtOnmxFuiAJgz5cC7OF4njE3dHgJq7qp3tN8_iZiQjwFxoCJXAQAvD_BwE
I'm sure putting in alot of time on a generator that is brand new.
I learn something each time I tune in.
BTW can anyone explain how a low oil alert sensor works from the engine casing outside the oil bath?
Your son ❤️, very very smart !
Your son did good……..genus idea…
Great vid, Just subbed. But still unsure of the operation of the sensor and diode combination. If I put my meter on sensor wire and ground I get open, however when I tilt or tip the engine to simulate low oil it remains open. What am I missing? The diode unit when tested shows continuity one way and reversing leads shows open thru the unit itself.
The oil system has two components. First it the oil float switch inside the engine. You should be able to test that as you did and see the circuit close when low oil exists. Because it’s a float it may not work by tilting the generator. Most likely you have to drain the oil to test. The other component is the little module outside the engine. One wire is connected to the primary on the ignition coil. That is how it grounds out spark, but the primary also acts as generator and powers the low oil module. I am not sure a procedure to test that, but it is more then a diode in there.
@@jcondon1 Thanks for the info and I did giean a lot of what you state from other tubbers. Actually I am trying to trouble shoot the generator using the same setup on a 5.5 GX, I had gifted to me, and not concerned about flipping that unit 180 to test. will keep you posted.
Ok. Question - Why didn't you check the float needle for a good seat before putting it on the motor?
Thanks for the video...what brand of torque wrench did you use on the studs for the carb?
Nothing special. It is an eBay cheap Chinese one.
I have a Generac 5000 with a Briggs motor. The low oil sensor switch is bad, removed wire and it started. Now I want to get the switch I called Generac they said it’s a discontinued part no longer available I checked eBay and nobody has it so I guess I’ll just run it with the wire off and make sure I have checked the oil level. The part # is in book as 88977, new part # is BS8977AGS. Guess I’ll never buy another Generac product!
The sad thing is Generac is one of the few companies that sell parts. I took a quick look. Will this the one you need? www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-Briggs-and-Stratton-Engine-Motor-Oil-Guard-Kit-398182-298182-496605-/184276130095?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
SOS pads work wonders on rusty chrome
Just tried scotch brite and soapy water a few days ago and it worked very well. I have heard the same about SOS pads.
I have watched many of your videos and this carb. with the plastic where the float goes has a spring in bowl to hold up the plastic. But on other videos with the same type carb. some don't use the spring in the bottom of the bowl. Is that normal?
Hey James what that black wire run too ? I got same problem ? On Coleman 6250 generator ?I took the white off no spark ? Then the red one no spark ? Then the black i took off from the switch to coil fire right up? But that wire is coming off.the coil ? On mine no sure is it the box or coil that problem ?
Update..put a new box on ? Same problem..trying the coil next.
Interesting video. What is the function of the oil module? Do other manufacturers utilize a module as well?
I'd assumed it was the low oil switch that directly grounded the coil in a low condition.
I wondered the same thing. From what I have seen they all do (Honda/Subaru/Briggs/Chinese Clones). Maybe not all, I did work on an older Briggs L-Head recently and there was no module just the switch. The switch does ground out when low. I think the module does two things 1) it provides a delay of a few seconds. It is normal as the oil is splashing around to potentially get intermittent ground signals from the switch even though the oil is not low. 2) the grounding out of the coil is performed by the oil module instead of the switch. That reduces the current going though the switch and increases the life of it.
What would be a common problem on a westinghouse 9500 dual fuel that only runs on propane but when switched to gas it doesn’t run its a brand new generator btw i just received it a few days ago
Thats why i couldn't get the card offf ,hhhmmm,but i got the engine with missing valve spring ,and missing valve stem seal ,sears wants me to buy the kit with valve and spring with the seals .however i dont want valve,all i need is the seal ,and its the same engine that your working on ,do u have any idea how i can get the correct valve stem seal? thanks in advance
I'm looking for a segment on converting a regular gas fueled generator, over to Natural Gas/ propane fuel use, where it can be used with all 3 gasses. Any segments showing installation kits?
The kit I used in this video supports tri-fuel ruclips.net/video/TReTACsS2cM/видео.html
@@jcondon1 Thanks for the reply, James. I'll switch over and watch the video. Brother in law wants to add on the conversion kit to his new machine, so he can use it in 3 ways, natural gas, propane, or regular fuel. It's a "Campion" 5000 watt unit he picked up brand new about a month ago. Kind regards
Hand 🤚 🤚 hand 🤚 🤚 genius genius genius son son son
you grounded the electrode the
first time..
James. Just found your channel a subbed. Question. Do you have a link to where you bought the little tools you use to clean out the orifices of the carburetor? Thanks.
Should have a link in my web store at www.Amazon.com/shop/jamescondon. I think this is what you are looking for Carburetors Carbon Dirt Jet Remove Cleaner, 13 Cleaning Wires Set + 10 Cleaning Needles + 5 Nylon Brushes Tool Kit for Welder Carb Chainsaw Spray Guns Torch Tips Firing Hole Stove Burner Holes www.amazon.com/dp/B08JYQGS1X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6J2XKWC34NVXRVF2F69A
Nice video, But the manual says not to start with a load on right?
Correct. It is bad for the power head and can send surges damaging electronics. Also it can remove residual magnetism. With that said, the light is only a 50 watt resistive load. It has never caused an issue.
What’s the name of the torque are you using?
this video is great, has a lil music
Idea idea idea idea
This is a great video. I am having trouble finding where the middle black cable from the switch needs to connect to. Mine got pulled out. Does anyone know?
I think that ones right to the coil by the flywheel
Thank you James. I looked and found the other end of the wire. Was able to then easily get my generator working again. Thanks for all your help. By the way your son is very creative. Thanks.
How does water enter the fuel tank?
Hey James, this is the exact same generator I have. Question. I'm having trouble pulling the rope to start mine. it worked fine a few months ago. Now it will pull easy for a foot or so then get real hard to pull. I did get it started and let it run for 40 minutes but its still hard to pull. Through my research I came to the conclusion I have a broken compression trigger on the cam shaft. What are your thoughts? Thanks again.
Is it easy to pull with the spark plug removed? If so then it is the compression release. Check the exhaust valve clearance. If excessive then that would also cause the issue. Think the clearance should be 0.005”
@@jcondon1 exhaust appears to be fine. I ran it for 40 minutes after struggling to get it started. yes it’s easy to pull the starter cord with the plug out. Do you know exactly what cam shaft this model engine takes? And thanks for your reply. I really appreciate your time.
@@jcondon1 ok. I can check the valve clearance once I get time to pull it apart. But would it still run if the exhaust valve clearance if off? Thanks again.
@@mikepizzolatto5201 yes, but if too much clearance the pushrod will eventually fall out. See the end of my lifan part 2 video and the start of part 3. Clearance was ok on that one but the exhaust valve was causing the compression release to not release.
@@jcondon1 ok. Will do.
The audio sounds really good, what camera do you use?
Just an iPhone XS
what do you do with all the generators? collect them?
Sell them all.
Oh. Nice. I got a generator I'm trying to fix. See how it goes. You're videos are helpful. Thanks.
All that was needed there was a self solder connector and a lighter, not tongue depressors…😊
🙌👌👍😊🍀 Bravo
The spark tool can be used when the spark plug is in the head
Person:I know that
The fuel tank looks scary.
I've looked all over and can't find what the torque setting for the carburetor mounting bolts is. Can you help?
60 in/lbs is what I set it to.
@@jcondon1 Many thanks, sir. The video and your advice have helped enormously.
Dang I was sure hoping you'd do the THD on this model.