Thank you for making this video. I was just looking for a piece of information regarding how to insert the fuel pump arm inside the engine when installing a fuel pump onto a Lycoming 360. I don't think I found the needed information, but now I know that "I just insert my finger into the engine" to know what I need to know.
9:27 Teflon sealant paste? Isn’t that fitting sealed with an O-ring? Also the fire sleeve is too short, should be secured to the gold part of the fittings and you should use metal clamps to secure it, or at least metal zip ties.. even double wraps of safety wire, but plastic zip ties will melt when you need it most.
Thanks for the video and I have a question about fuel pump, last week I had two incidents where engine RPM dropped really low for couple of seconds in the middle of the runway before taking off. What could it be from the mechanical point of view? Could be fuel pump because the weather is hot?
Mukhiddin thank you for the question. I am not an aeronautical maintenance engineer. I am an aircraft owner that continues to learn about his aircraft the more he flies it. When I experience my problem I had instrumentation to back it up. On top of a fuel pressure gauge I have a fuel flow gauge. This proved very useful when I had a fuel pressure gauge fail on an earlier occasion. The fuel pressure was reading 0.9PSI, while the fuel flow was reading more than 60lph while climbing at 1700fpm. Clearly the mechanical fuel pump was not at fault, but the fuel pressure gauge had failed. With my more recent failure, the fuel pressure dropped to near zero, the engine stumbled and the fuel flow was showing zero. All three indicators pointed at a bad fuel pump. This is when i replaced my fuel pump. In your situation you mentioned it was very hot. The first question that came to mind when I read that was are you using mogas or avgas? Vapour lock, a whole other subject, can come into play in hot weather. Sorry I can’t be of more help, but I’m not an AME. I would however encourage you to find the root cause of the engine stumbling prior to taking to flight. It will likely be something relativity simple to address. Kindest regards, Dwayne
First question is whether your friend is a certified mechanic (A&P). I know you do not have a repairmans certificate as you did not build the airplane. (Canada may be different, but usually more demanding than US) I.E. you can only work on your engine if supervised. If your crimp hose ends were done at an auto shop, then more than likely you have the wrong fittings on the two hoses. Auto fittings are normally 45*. Aircraft fitting (AN fittings ) are 38*. They are NOT compatible. If this is the case REMOVE the two fuel lines. You missed the difficulty in starting the two mounting bolts. The outboard bolt is easy, The inboard bolt is a b***ch. I have to use a ball end Allen tool to tighten the inboard bolt due to fuel pump body interference. I did not see the O-ring being put on the fuel pump inlet fitting? Missing? I am glad to see you tackle this project, but make sure you are getting supervision.
@@matthewpellegrino4926 Let me clarify my original response. If the airplane is in the Experimental class, and YOU built the aircraft, and YOU have a repairmans certificate for that airplane, YOU may legally work on that airplane. If you bought the airplane from from someone, or do not have a repairmans certificate for that particular airplane, then you must have a licensed A&P sign off the repair. There are some items that the "owner" of the airplane can perform, but replacing the fuel pump is most likely not covered . In addition, the Canadian rules could be different about this particular repair that allows the "owner" (i.e. not necessarialy the builder) to perform the replacement of the pump due to the airplane being in the Experimental class. The fuel pump casting does not allow the two mounting bolts to be addressed straight on. There is enough on an angle (due to the casting body roundness) that makes the allen wrench or socket come in at an angle that in the case of the inner bolt a real tedious exercise. Cheers.
That blue aluminum AN fitting on the carburetor should be a steel AN fitting which won't melt in a engine fire like aluminum. Even brass is better than aluminum fitting which also cracks easier. I don't recommend those automotive hose fittings the cone angle is different.
Thank you for making this video. I was just looking for a piece of information regarding how to insert the fuel pump arm inside the engine when installing a fuel pump onto a Lycoming 360. I don't think I found the needed information, but now I know that "I just insert my finger into the engine" to know what I need to know.
Erno, I am very pleased to hear this. Thank you for sharing.
Dwayne
Great Job
thank you
Thanks for the video! Will be doing mine this weekend and thats good info!
You’re very welcome. Thanks for the feedback, and good luck with our install.
Cheers
Dwayne
Great video, answered a lot of my questions.
Great to hear. Good luck with your work. Cheers. Dwayne
9:27 Teflon sealant paste? Isn’t that fitting sealed with an O-ring? Also the fire sleeve is too short, should be secured to the gold part of the fittings and you should use metal clamps to secure it, or at least metal zip ties.. even double wraps of safety wire, but plastic zip ties will melt when you need it most.
good job
Thank you. I hope it’s useful.
Thanks for the video and I have a question about fuel pump, last week I had two incidents where engine RPM dropped really low for couple of seconds in the middle of the runway before taking off. What could it be from the mechanical point of view? Could be fuel pump because the weather is hot?
Aircraft is Cherokee 140 and O 320 Lycoming.
Mukhiddin thank you for the question. I am not an aeronautical maintenance engineer. I am an aircraft owner that continues to learn about his aircraft the more he flies it.
When I experience my problem I had instrumentation to back it up. On top of a fuel pressure gauge I have a fuel flow gauge. This proved very useful when I had a fuel pressure gauge fail on an earlier occasion. The fuel pressure was reading 0.9PSI, while the fuel flow was reading more than 60lph while climbing at 1700fpm. Clearly the mechanical fuel pump was not at fault, but the fuel pressure gauge had failed.
With my more recent failure, the fuel pressure dropped to near zero, the engine stumbled and the fuel flow was showing zero. All three indicators pointed at a bad fuel pump. This is when i replaced my fuel pump.
In your situation you mentioned it was very hot. The first question that came to mind when I read that was are you using mogas or avgas? Vapour lock, a whole other subject, can come into play in hot weather.
Sorry I can’t be of more help, but I’m not an AME. I would however encourage you to find the root cause of the engine stumbling prior to taking to flight. It will likely be something relativity simple to address.
Kindest regards,
Dwayne
First question is whether your friend is a certified mechanic (A&P). I know you do not have a repairmans certificate as you did not build the airplane. (Canada may be different, but usually more demanding than US) I.E. you can only work on your engine if supervised. If your crimp hose ends were done at an auto shop, then more than likely you have the wrong fittings on the two hoses. Auto fittings are normally 45*. Aircraft fitting (AN fittings ) are 38*. They are NOT compatible. If this is the case REMOVE the two fuel lines. You missed the difficulty in starting the two mounting bolts. The outboard bolt is easy, The inboard bolt is a b***ch. I have to use a ball end Allen tool to tighten the inboard bolt due to fuel pump body interference. I did not see the O-ring being put on the fuel pump inlet fitting? Missing? I am glad to see you tackle this project, but make sure you are getting supervision.
experimental, he can do his own work
@@matthewpellegrino4926 Let me clarify my original response. If the airplane is in the Experimental class, and YOU built the aircraft, and YOU have a repairmans certificate for that airplane, YOU may legally work on that airplane. If you bought the airplane from from someone, or do not have a repairmans certificate for that particular airplane, then you must have a licensed A&P sign off the repair. There are some items that the "owner" of the airplane can perform, but replacing the fuel pump is most likely not covered . In addition, the Canadian rules could be different about this particular repair that allows the "owner" (i.e. not necessarialy the builder) to perform the replacement of the pump due to the airplane being in the Experimental class.
The fuel pump casting does not allow the two mounting bolts to be addressed straight on. There is enough on an angle (due to the casting body roundness) that makes the allen wrench or socket come in at an angle that in the case of the inner bolt a real tedious exercise. Cheers.
That blue aluminum AN fitting on the carburetor should be a steel AN fitting which won't melt in a engine fire like aluminum. Even brass is better than aluminum fitting which also cracks easier. I don't recommend those automotive hose fittings the cone angle is different.
Thanks for the note.
Nice job the only thing missing were safety procedures (safety glasses, disconnecting battery, fire extinguisher, etc,)
Cheers John