RISKY Exhaust Heat Exchanger Removal - Porsche 3.2L Carrera Engine
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- Опубликовано: 10 дек 2021
- I didn't want to damage a running engine by removing the stock exhaust. The recommended method is to heat the rusted nuts until they are cherry red before breaking them loose. This meant buying an oxy/acetylene rig for the shop. Plus I made another engine test stand just to get the engine up off the floor so I could access the heat exchangers. Nothing is easy as they say!
#Exhaust #PorscheEngine
You will need this socket - amzn.to/30eSWZs
I used a regular 8mm allen wrench like this one with a vice grip clamped to the end - amzn.to/3ELHZxH
I bought a large used oxy/acetylene rig, but here's a good option that is smaller and new - amzn.to/3oKf6fN
(I paid $200 on craigslist and it worked same day)
Impact hammer is nice to own too - amzn.to/3IFzQ03
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Below is a table of contents of past episodes 1-35. Click the link below for the rest
www.ahhgaragetime.com/TOC
Intro
Stripped Shell Introduction
• Porsche 911 Longhood C...
1
Drivers Fender Backdate, Unfold short hood edge, Make Signal Box Parts From Flat Sheet
• Backdating My Porsche ...
2
Drivers Fender Signal Box, Shape Bottom Portion w/ Bead Roller
• Porsche 911 Metal Fabr...
3
Drivers Fender Side Patch Panel Hammerform, TIG Weld Signal Housing
• CNC Machined Hammerfor...
4
Drivers Fender TIG Weld Side Patch Panel, Add signal housing triangle piece
• TIG Welding Sheetmetal...
5
Passenger Side Fender Backdate, Additional Content From Driver's Side
• Modify Your Short Hood...
6
Shorthood to Longhood Conversion, Form Outer Skin Edges And Weld On
• Project Porsche 911, L...
7
E Wheel and Form Longhood Inner Skin w/ Handormed Strength Rib
• English Wheel Metalsha...
8
TIG Weld Outer and Inner Longhood Extension
• Porsche 911 Restoratio...
9
Longhood Front Seal Custom Bracket
• Porsche 911 Carrera RS...
10
Rear Backdate, Remove Rear Impact Bumper and Valence
• Porsche 911 RS Tribute...
11
Lead Rear Valence Corners, Rear Latch Panel Backdate
• Porsche 911 Outlaw Bui...
12
Hybrid Steel License Plate panel & Fiberglass Rear Bumper, Custom Panel Brackets
• Porsche 911 Build - Hy...
13
Custom Aluminum Rear Bumperettes, Solidworks Design, Cut on CNC machine, Rear Flare Trial Fit
• Old Porsche 911 Resto ...
14
Form and TIG Weld Custom Rear Aluminum Bumperettes, Rear Bumper Complete
• Old Porsche 911 Resto ...
15
SC to RS Flare Comparison, Photoshop & Sheetmetal Conversion to RS
• How to Spot a SC Fende...
16
Tack Weld Passenger Side RS Rear Flare, Remove Undercoat, Align Flare
• How to Butt Weld a Ste...
17
Weld Passenger Side Flare, TIG VS MIG, Planishing, Weld Distortion, TIG Arc shots
• Porsche 911 Build - We...
18
Align Body Panels, Hood gaps, Adjust tub with dumbell, Repair Rocker, gap tool, Windshield fit check
• How to Align Body Pane...
19
Fill 20+ Holes, Mirror, Washer Jets, Rockers, Gas Filler, Antenna,
• How to Fill Holes in Y...
20
Remove Rear Window without cutting seal, Kick Method
• How to Remove Porsche ...
21
Remove Decklid Bumps and adjust Gaps & Fit, Add Weld material to edge
• Porsche 911 Decklid Pa...
22
Weld Pssgr Fender Support Panel, Lead Hood to Fender Gap, Weld Fender Edge to Reduce Gap
• Perfect 3mm Door Gaps ...
23
Build quality, Improve Panel Fit, Lead Passenger Door Gap, Lead Rocker to fender gap, Drivers Door
• Who Doesn't Want High ...
24
Drivers Door Alignment, Fill Rust Pits with TIG, Lead Drivers Door Gap, Adjust Front Fender Signal Fit,
• Panel Alignment Nightm...
25
Discovered Rust in Suspension Pan, Spot Weld Drilling, Tram Guage Mounting Points, cut out pan
• Rust Repair is HARD on...
26
Suspension Pan Repair, remove suspension, Cut Latch Panel for Oil Cooler, Check Squareness
• Suspension Pan Replace...
27
Align and Weld Suspension Pan, Spirit Level to remove twist, Kettle Bell Hits to Tweak Position, Rosette Welds
• 911 Suspension Pan Wel...
28
Re-Align Hood/Tub after Suspension Pan Install, Repair rust on gas tank panel,
• 911 Gas Tank Panel Rep...
29
Gas Tank Support Welded In, De-rusted with Electrolysis Bath, Reshaped pan edge, Final welding
• How to Simulate Factor...
30
Simulate Factory Spot Welds, Rosette Plug Welds, Pencil eraser on primer
• How to Simulate Factor...
31
Convert Drivers Side Flare to RS Profile and Repair Rust Damage
• Porsche Restomod - RS ...
32
TIG Weld Drivers Side Flare, Remove Failed Undercoating in Wheel Well, Planish and Metal Finishing
• 911 Restomod | This is...
33
Strip Paint from Car and Prep for Epoxy Primer, Strip it disc and paint stripper
• How to Beat the Ugly O... 
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Not to be too picky, but the easiest way to take the entire system off is in one piece. Just remove the 6 hex nuts and the 6 allen nuts from the head studs and the entire system will come off in one piece. Then, if necessary, you can take it fully apart on the ground with easy access to all the bolts, especially the 6 that connect the cat converter to the cross pipe and the left heat exchanger . I’ve done it many, many times this way over the years. I’ve also had no problems heating the hex nuts with my small acetylene torch. It just takes a few seconds to get everything red hot, and then they will come loose. I usually find that the allen nuts don’t need heat, but it takes some experience to get the feel to do it - the trick is to have a long 10mm allen socket with a GOOD end, tap it up unto the nut to make sure it is fully inserted, then give it a quick hard turn - they usually make a sickening snapping noise when they release, but from there you can usually turn them out by hand. I use a 16” 1/2” drive ratchet for this. Sounds scary but at my age I’m fearless. I also have Stomski’s exhaust stud repair kit just in case.
Thanks Jim, that is why I share what I do. I didn't mention it in the video, but I realized after the fact that I could have taken the cross pipe off while attached to the heat exchanger. As you say this would be much easier to cut on after it was removed.
The catalytic converter and muffler was already off this engine when it was shipped, but your idea to remove it as one is very valid.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this! That is what this community is for. If I was doing this for a living or getting paid a fixed price, then this kind of advice is so good.
I did heat the barrel nuts and they came off easy. I used a sharp allen wrench with a big vice grip on the end. I should have showed a picture of it. It didn't look pretty, but it did work.
Nice video Tom. Everyone working on older equipment fights with stubborn rusted nuts and bolts. Good tips for when preservation of surrounding parts is a very high priority. 👍👍
Thanks! Now I'm looking forward to stubborn bolts so I can get more experience with my new toy!
Another investment I will make someday. My grandfather used to be a body man a long time ago. All he ever did was brazing with oxy-acetelyn. Amazing stuff he could do.
That's real talent. When I get some time, I'm going to try to weld with it. It's supposed to be similar to TIG, so I want to see for myself!
Stainless exhaust is gonna look amazing! Thanks for the tips and generating comments with others that have been helpful too. I have a lot of rusted bolts to take care of
Thanks for watching! Best of luck with that rusty stuff!
I don’t know if there is any real difference between the propane torch and a mapp torch but I recently bought a mapp torch kit for work. It makes a lot of noise and heats things up to red hot rather quickly.
In high school in the mid 70s I would rent an oxyacetylene kit when I needed one. I didn’t really think about it at the time. I just went to the local rent-all place. Paid some cash and drove off with it. Toughest part was the gruff “you know how to use one of these?” comments from the guy behind the counter the first time. I did, it was taught in school. I guess that was good enough for him. A lot of trust in the relationship back then.
My Mapp torch might be partially blocked or not an aggressive enough flow to get red hot nuts. Glad you got a good one.
I never thought of renting a torch, but not a bad idea. Wonder how the charge for the amount of gases used?
Great Video as usual. It is always about the right tools. I'm sure as we speak there are thousands of guys out there struggling to remove exhaust nuts and breaking studs in the process...
Thanks Rodney. I can never get enough tools. The one I got is a big boy torch for sure!
Great job and congrats on the new torch!
Thanks! I can't wait to bend some stuff
Acetylene alone is hot enough to turn steel cherry red. Adding the oxygen speeds up the process.
Great info Tom!! Thanks for the detail. Having the correct tools is always important. It can be hard on a tight budget, but engine damage is even more costly. Cheers.
For sure. The Oxy/acetylene rig was only $200 and the tanks are pretty full, so I can't complain.
Oxy map turbo kit works great, more compact, and gets nut cherry red.
I came really close to buying this kit. I ended up with the big torch because I picked up with gas and ready to go. I was up against a bit of a deadline.
Thanks for the video Tom. Did you end up heating all 12 nuts? And, did you reuse the nuts or put new ones on with the new heat exchangers? How long did the proces take you in total? Thanks!
Yes, I heated all 12 and threw them in the trash. The whole process is about three hours assuming nothing breaks. I did cut and replace a few bolts .
great video as always tom! i had an exhaust leak on my '72 911E back in the day and i had to take the exhaust out on the driver side. since it was my first time to do such a job, i ended up breaking several studs because they were so corroded and rusty. i then had to use a time-sert thread repair kit on the broken ones. not a fun job because i didn't have a lift.
Thanks for sharing. I was terrified of breaking something. Glad you were able to get those repairs done while the engine was still in the car.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto i think i just got lucky! :)
The piezo click start nozzles (bernzomatic 8000) will get the metal cherry red even with regular propane. Throwing ice cold water on the cherry red metal will shock the metal even more.
Interesting, I thought there might be something better available because you aren't the only who has said they work.
The version I had clearly didn't. Do you get a concentrated flame?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto it’s got some sort of turbulator swirly gizmo in it that accelerates the flame and adds additional oxygen. At least that’s my theory anyways. I was shocked as to how hot it gets with regular propane. It’s probably a beast with mapp, even if the new formulation of mapp is not the same as the old mapp.
I only have a small tank acetylene no Oxy and it suits my garage needs, my two cents. Looking forward to seeing the SS exhaust, always wanted one but could not justify the cost.
Interesting. I wasn't aware acetylene could be used on its own. Very cool.
I'm excited about the new exhaust too. It will be so much lighter than the stock exhaust.
a "mini ductor" inductive heater works awesome too.
True, I looked into these too because they are so compact versus the torch. My issue was fitting those coils in between the heat exchangers. The space is really tight!
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Yes that's true especially the barrel nuts. In the most extreme case you would have to cut the heat exchangers off. You can get smaller coils that you can bend. I was lucky. Mine came off with just penetrating fluid and a T wrench so I wasn't putting too much torque on them.
Where do you get steel stock for engine stands like that?
The frame is made from steel square tubing. I get it from industrial metal supply.
Tom, do you have flashback arrestors installed?
Not yet, but I ordered some.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I'm really glad to hear that, thanks for letting us know!
Try electro-induction heater.
I considered that, but the space is too confined to fit coils in there. At least for the heat exchanger part
@@GarageTimeAutoResto There is a couple of those tips that you put on tool.Diferent angel,size,lenght...I saw on you video that the space is not too big.
Right, I'd love to have one of these tools too.