Replace Your Workmate 425 Panels for Under $10
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- In this video I will show you how I replaced the panels on my Workmate 425 for under $10 with parts you can get at any hardware lumber store. I have included close-ups of all the parts so you will know what to get and how everything goes together. I also have another video that covers in detail all the dimensions of the replacement panels.
I hope you find this video useful. If so, please press like and share with your friends. I'll be coming out with more videos soon so be sure to subscribe. Thanks for watching and good luck on your projects.
For Current Pricing on the Workmate 425 & others:
** Workmate 425
Black & Decker WM425 Portable Project Center and Vise
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** Workmate 125
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** Workmate 225
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** Workmate 1000
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** Black & Decker 79-010-4 Workmate Swivel Grip Peg, 4-Pack
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I am truly amazed at the ingenuity of people.
Thanks for stopping by and commenting. Cheers!
I'm in the process of making this upgrade for my Workmate 425 I have the panels cut out and the Hardware attached, now I have to make the holes and the slots. Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks Stewart and have fun drilling all 60+ holes. :-)
Again, I find myself scouring YT for the "right" video and I keep finding that the smallest channels end up offering the exact content and info I need. Thank you so much, I've just picked up a Workmate 400 and I wanted to change the top and mod it for more versatile use. I only have my balcony for a workspace and I'm primarily handtools so this is truly perfect for my needs. Keep up the great work, now I gotta settle in for some of your other videos. ;)
Ben King-Eagles Congratulations on your new Workmate 400. I know you are going to enjoy using it once you get your mods completed. At one point, my only work space was a balcony also. So I understand your constraints. If you don't mind me asking, what types of projects do you like to work on?
@@WorkMateGuy So far I've started up carving again, used to do relief work when I was younger. Haven't done too much of that yet tho, need a bench! Mostly I've been freehand carving pipes using briarwood and maple burls (the little ones that grow on the outside), and making spoons and such. I'm carving a bowl for my wife's jewelry out of a nice firewood find, looks like a decent sized maple burl. So just whatever I can do with minimal tools and space. The spoons are great practice and good for gifts. The pipes I get somewhat zoned out on, it's very meditative. If its briarwood I carve to a decided shape, but with the little burls I remove the bark and find the natural shape and accentuate it just a tad. Tbh I just want to work with wood, I forgot how much I loved it. I've got a few projects in line for when the bench is finished: a good mallet, toolbox, milkman's bench (look it up, it's neat), shaving horse+spoon mule attachment and more.
For the workmate rebuild I got 2x8 douglas fir and had a local cut, joint and plane it. I think I'm gonna leave the 3 pieces at 32in a piece, a few extra sq inches will be nice and I can cut it down if I need to. A shop, a shop... my kingdom for a shop. ;)
I think you are right in going with the 32 inch length on the panels. As you said, nice to have the additional space on your bench. Perhaps someday you might showcase your work on the web somewhere. There are a number of sites dedicated to woodworking where you can share photos of projects and correspond with others having the same interest. Cheers!
@@WorkMateGuy Thanks, and ya you never know, I might "go public" someday. Not quite yet tho, need a few more days to master the craft. ;)
I just got a free Workmate 550 from Craigslist. There were only two panels and the particle board was badly swollen from water damage. This video allowed me to replace all three panels for the cost of a 2x8 and a lot of sweat equity. I also had to de-rust the lead screws and I put lithium grease on them too. Now I've got my original Workmate 425 (it's 3 decades old), a Workmate 400 that cost me $60 on Craigslist, and my "free" Workmate 550 from Craigslist with a retreaded top. Three thumbs up. These are perfect for condo living.
Hi Steven - Congratulations on your new old Workmates! It looks like you got a lot of personal enjoyment out of making some of them whole again. Thanks for stopping by and sharing your experience. Cheers!
I reeeallly h8 2 use this as a vector 2 ask a not “necessarily” relevant question. But there's just too much Workmate™ experience here, I can't pass this up...
I'm ever so unsuccessfully looking for a “Line Drawing” level illustration of the Benchtop Graphics for the Workmate Plus Medallion Series. Does anybody here have a link or even a DWG file with those graphics thereupon?
“Turning one of the panels as a bench-bull”... Simple and brilliant idea 👍
Thanks FrenchAccent.
Nice! Mine is at least 20 years old and the MDF top is starting to curl up at the edges. I like your upgrade ideas.
Thanks!
Took your ideas from this and the measurements video and resurfaced my Black & Decker WM 400 and can still use all original features including vertical clamping. Thanks much.
Hey Frank, you are certainly welcome. Cheers!
Thanks, my workmate's top has fallen apart and is limited, this video is an inspiration, love the Bull.
Love this! I need to replace one of the panels on my Workmate (not sure of the model) which was made of cheap MDF. You’ve inspired me to go the extra mile with the side bore holes, that is a great idea! Thank you for sharing.
You are certainly welcome and welcome to my channel. Please check back and let me know how your upgrade goes. Cheers.
As it turns out, I am missing 2 of the plastic feet which attach to the wood and rails. The hunt is on to find replacements.
@@MrJavasan01 Try ereplacementparts.com
Great video. I like the slots and using the middle panel vertically. I have just finished restoring my old 750. I also put in a third removable middle panel but not as useful as yours, what I did do is make forth panel to swap out and mounted a router in it, great for round overs. Clever use of the bolts. Thanks, John from County Durham. England.
Hey John Davies. I bet your 750 looks great restored. Too bad we cannot share photos in the comments. I like your idea of the router panel. This is a great additions to your shoppe. BTW, my fathers side of the family was from Leeds England. Cheers.
Would love to see more detail of your process. I am in the middle of replacing the top of a workbench. I am a beginner at this and wish I could watch the steps you took. Thank you!
Hi Catherine, are there any specific questions you have about the process? You can also reach me here: facebook.com/profile.php?id=1623646680
Thanks so much for posting this. I replaced my panels this weekend and really happy with how it turned out. My original panels were so warped and damaged, I couldn't use the workbench (although panels had enough original characteristics to help with the dimensions). Now my workmate is back up and ready for projects. I now have the first project checked off the list (1. fix workmate using WorkMateGuy's videos) Your dimension video was extremely helpful and anyone who uses this video as a starting point, should go there also.
DYKWIA D You are certainly welcome and I am glad to know that you were able to rehab your workmate. By the way, which model do you have?
@@WorkMateGuy Hi, it is a 425 type 5, I think. It had a 3 piece top and has the 90 degree front flip up option. The original top was black. From searching for videos and fixes, I have yet to see one with my exact original combination of tops and frame. I think it was a Sam's club or Costco version from the early 2000s, but could be wrong. Doesn't matter since the top is now replaced. Instead of the 2x8, I used an industrial workbench material (googled "shop tops bench" for similar) that I got from a factory going-out-of-business auction. So, the boards are 1.5" thick, very dense, but we'll see how it holds up. Still, your measurements and videos worked. I don't have a table saw, but did the best I could with a circular saw. Actually, after both boards were on the workmate, they weren't quite even on the ends. So, I clamped it shut, with the new boards on the frame and used the circ saw to trim about 1/8" - 1/4" (depending on which board on which side was longer) to make it look even. I did re-use the original bolts and plastic jigs that go under the boards. It was really easy with 1/4" and 1/2" spade bits (I think, not writing this from home). I'll get around to replacing them with bolts like you used to slide it onto the frame slots. With the boards being thicker, I didn't have to be very precise about how deep to drill holes underneath that don't go all the way through for the jig peg that doesn't use the screws. Same with the clearance holes on the top to recess the bolt heads.I just kept drilling little by little until there was enough of the bolt sticking out the bottom to screw into the jigs. There is simple math there to figure it out with my board vs. your boards vs. the originals if someone cares about precision depth. Anyway, I realized I was over thinking it too much about trying to get it perfect and it turned out perfect (enough for me) by watching your videos and diving in. I'll definitely build an expanded top to use with it. Thanks!
DYKWIA D Hmmm.. I don't know If I've seen the model that you described but, I am glad you were able to rehab it. Cheers.
You inserted the bolt from the BOTTOM side. I was thinking you pressed the bolt head into the surface without a counter sink... Good call. I am going to modify the bolt head with a grinder to fit the slot and not fuss with the rotation alignment. Cheers!
Hey Patrick, thanks for stopping by and posting. Cheers!
Thanks for the video...I was just looking online for new slides and thought there's got to be a better way.
I like your idea and thanks for the bolt specs. Seems like a round head would work better and a thin wrench would control the spacing from the wood. I'll test it out and get back to you.
You are certainly welcome and please let me know how your idea works. Cheers.
@@WorkMateGuy I've still got my stock Workmate boards but the plastic sliders are shot so I was going to try to adapt them to your "as cheaply as possible" system. HomeDepot has some Everbuilt Stainless 3/8" carriage bolts that have smooth rounded heads that are so close to the slider opening size that depending on the bolt, they work great or don't work at all.
With a bit of elbow grease the threads will catch into the stock holes on the moveable boards [5/16"?] and then with a 3/8" wrench you can use the square bolt [nut?] between the head and the threads to drive the bolt down with a gap matching the width of your wrench. I happen to have a pocket bike wrench that is 1/16" thick so that worked a treat to get a good solid fit between the head and the metal sliders on the WM. Vice grips on the smooth head work too and may actually help with heads being smaller than the slots.
The first board works great in all 3 metal slots so I thought I had a winner but the bolts I installed on middle board have heads that are just slightly bigger than the slots. A hammer makes them work to get them in and out but that's no way to live. It's so close it could come down to the manufacturers error tolerance for if a given bolt will work or not. If you don't mind beating a bolt into submission with files and hammers, this is a great way to go.
In the spirit of your video, I tried to use what was readily available at the box store and their limited carriage bolt head size selection. I'm sure there's a carriage bolt out there that's ideal and I do like the square bolt above the threads providing a nice gap between the round head and the bottom of the board but I think in the end your solution of just rotating the hex head as needed works best for the under $20 solution.
Love your bench bull...have you installed a castor box yet? ruclips.net/video/KrI5lQG9rXk/видео.html
Thanks, I see some good ideas here, but maybe I can add one or two.. It's time to once again refurbish the Workmate that I bought in 1980.
First, I see that many people don't make a shelf for the bottom platform - that can be very handy. You can make one from 3/4" ply, and cut a slot for a circular saw and drill holes for other things, or just have toolbox there. You might also make a shelf from hardware cloth so that sawdust just falls through.
Second, I may incorporate something like t-track in the top, but using a heavier track made from Unistrut (aka Superstrut). Finally, I intend to do something about stabilizing the legs to prevent them from buckling and so allowing the Workmate to rock and tilt.
Hey Fulla, thanks for stopping by and sharing your ideas. Please stop back and let me know how they worked out for you. Cheers.
Hi all good ideas to help me with mine My wife bought it for me around 1975 and has many patches .Thank you.
Hey wilfo098 - Wow 1975! You have a piece of history there! I am sure you got your use out of it. Thanks for stopping by and sharing. Cheers!
Great idea, I would change the hole size so all my dogs are universal to my regular bench, makes life easier, 2 thumbs up
Good idea, thanks for stopping by and sharing.
You have given me some good ideas for my 550. Thank you
Hey Joe, you are certainly welcome and welcome to my channel. Cheers!
One of my panels got wet so is useless. Was looking for how to replace and found this. Looks like a good plan
Oh, that's too bad about your panels getting wet. I hope this approach will allow you to replace them without difficulties. Cheers!
@@WorkMateGuy Might be a good thing. I can probably squeeze a router table panel in there too.
Great explanation.
Can you or someone else tell me the stock tabletop height of these workmates?
Looks great. I've started making center panels to hold power tools and a big, traditional jaw, vise. There are lots of videos on RUclips on how to make, for instance, a drill press, router table, table saw, from portable tools. I also want to put a place for a switched outlet so I don't have to unplug power tools every time I want to change a bit or a blade.
Yes, there are more ideas out there then we can ever build. Thanks for stopping by Rob. Cheers!
The bolts are regular grade 3 bolts which depicts its tensile strength. For what you're using them for is ample strong. Grade is normally dictated by the number of lines on the bolt head. I.E. Yours are grade 3 so should have three lines, six lines = grade 6, eight lines = grade 8 which are very high tensile strength and overkill for this type of project. Loving the videos by the way thanks for taking the time to produce them. Do you have any ideas as to how I could mount a router on the 425 but in the horizontal position using the vertical vice ?
Hi Richard - Thanks for sharing that information on the grades of bolts. Sounds like you have a great deal of experience in that area. Mounting Router - I have seen a number of solutions using the horizontal vice approach but never the vertical. I would have to give this some thought. Cheers!
WorkMateGuy Thanks for you’re reply and accompanying compliment, been a mechanic for most of my life so it goes with the job. I appreciate the fact you will consider thinking about a possible solution for mounting a router on the horizontal so I could use it as a planer pushing wood over the bit or under it on the flat. Have a wonderful Thanksgiving and God Bless.
Great idea! Love it!
Thank you! 😊
How did put the wood together for that top thx you
Workmates are seriously underrated
I agree 100%
Hi John great workmate hiw to videos. I have a WM 225 with one board missing (the one not connected to the adjusting screws) and was thinking of making 2 board tops (duplicating the original one I have so both are even thickness) what is the dimensions of the 2nd board and is it possible to make 3 boards like the 425 and if so what are the dimensions of those boards? Thx in advance.
Hi John, so glad I found these Workmate videos re-posted...such an enormous help for those of us that own one of these versatile workbenches. Thank you for your time and knowledge! A couple of questions I have: 1) What drill bit did you use in order to drill the bench dog holes as well as the countersunk hole for the carrier bolt? 2) Did you use your drill press to do all of the drilling? Thanks for all of your help again...these videos go a long way for people like myself!
Deney Terrio Great to hear from you again. I use a 22MM forstner bit for the dog holes. And yes I used a drill press for everything. I don't recall what i used for the counter sink for for the Carrier bolt. Thanks for stopping by again.
Thanks again, John...much appreciated!
Genius well thought out👍
Thanks Billy, and thanks for stopping by.
Glad I found you again. :) I have found the clamping is tough on mine also. have to think about were to put the dogs at. going to get some of the sliver line clamps for sure.
jeff hebert The silver line clamps are great. I know you will get a lot of use out of them. If you cant find them on Amazon let me know, and I will get you the link.
I did find them on amazon and plan on ordering them this weekend. also found the grip mate like you have. offer 20 bucks for them and will get them also. the grip mate sure was hard to find. thank you for the great videos.
Thanks for the great idea, you mentioned wanting to get rid of the plastic blocks. I see how you did that on the 2 fixed pieces, but how did you attach the worm gear to the moveable top board?
I used the bolts to attach directly. Cheers!
Is it possible to get replacements for the indexing nut 242-444-00? I have a 400 that I got at a thrift store. I want to add a middle board. The vice on the workmate has a nice metal nut that is cone shaped which lets it drop into the slot on the frame easily. It also has a groove to slide into the slot on the frame. I have looked for these online from sites that sell workmate parts, but can't find any.
Try ereplacementparts.com. Cheers!
I have a wm 225 but one piece of wood is missing i just what to set my miter saw on it so can I use this 2×8's to make a full top
Good question... I am not sure about the 225. You would have to verify that the 225 has the same configuration as the one in this video. Cheers!
Can you post some overall dimensions and were the holes were placed? It looks like the middle section is wider? Thanks
Hi John, Check out this video: ruclips.net/video/OKKEV7VcnhU/видео.html
What a great project! I have a brand new 425 type 6 and think the writing on the surface is nice and all, but the surface is not as sturdy as I think it should be. Have you found it to be strong enough for your needs? I could see the benefit of embedding a yardstick into the first panel's edge with this project, though I'm not sure how much it would be used. Same for the the other side with its metric equivalent. Another thought I had was going for a bit longer, using a 10' board instead, giving a 40" wide work surface, but wonder if it might make the bench too heavy. Thoughts?
For most of the work I have done the original panels are sufficient. Making the new panels wider/longer introduces a weight and stability considerations. Too wide and it might tip over with a heavier project.
How long are those bolts and how many do I need thx you
All of the bolts are precisely described in the video as well as the number required. Cheers!
What a great idea! Thanks for sharing.
You bet!
Thanks for this video on the panel change-out for the 425. Two questions for you John: 1) did you use a router for those slots on the panels, and if so, what width should those slots be?; 2) I really like those purple clamps that are in the video. What brand are those, and where can I get them? Thanks again. I like your work!
Mick Dee Wisconsin I did not use a router for the slots in panels. Instead I drilled out holes and used the jig saw. I believe they are 1 inch in width. ruclips.net/video/SyjeF7UItiU/видео.html
You can find the details for the clamps in this video.
@@WorkMateGuy Thanks. By the way, I just got 2 sets of those Silverline Workbench clamps from the UK that you used in one of your videos. They're great, and I'm quite surprised that they're the only company that has these types of clamps. Thanks for the referral.
It would have been very helpful to see the bottom of your new top to get a idea of what have accomplished. Good video really is..
Hey George, thanks for stopping by. Cheers!
This is awesome
Yes- exactly what I need. My hand me down Workmate has a trashed top that I want to replace
It's a pretty simple project once you get into it.
Lol, super easy with thus video!!
Glad you think so! Cheers!
Hi, What size are the holes?
AJ Dragon - They are 20 mm.
No description on how holes made, I assume if you had a full sized drill dress. But I don’t have any access to one
Hey Cam Shaft. Yes, I do have a drill press which made drilling the 60 some odd holes a lot easier than with a battery drill. I think you could do it with one, but it would take some time. Cheers!
It's a counterbore not a countersink. Counter sinks are tapered.
edward charles Hey, Welcome to my channel and thank your for pointing this out. Sounds like you have some experience in wood working. Thanks for stopping by.
Meh, very nice sir. I like it! Good job. And btw, this thing is a complete pain in the ass to put together.
Thanks, and I totally agree with your comment about assembly. That's why I did a video on how to assemble it. Cheers!
@@WorkMateGuy yeah thank you for making your video!
Great ideas and work, but camera handling hints at Intention tremor.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intention_tremor