Stub shaft repair
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Showing more of the rollout wheel I built years ago, and some of its uses. Great tool for round work hope it clears up some of the questions I've had over the years.
See the build • Rollout wheel build.
That was a nice job welding and machining those up. I've had pins like that stuck tight in backhoe loader bushings that wouldn't move at all. I've cut the pins off close to the bosses, in your case the hub, then drilled a large hole right through the middle of the stub. once you have that clearance hole you can burn from the middle to the outside in a couple spots with a decent cutting torch.
As you already know a skilled guy such as yourself can peel metal away from the edge without messing the outer surface up, and take the tension off the shaft. After that I find a hammer and drift will get them out easily.
About 25 years ago an old machinist I use to be friends with before I moved away and he later died, rebuilt long obsolete 70's JCB 2wd steering kingpins for me. we got the pins pressed out of the axle knuckle, he then chucked them in his lathe with a well protected bed and welded them up. So the ground didn't go through the lathe bearings he had a piece of copper water pipe hammered flat and then made hook shaped that went over the work or behind the chuck somehow with the wire attached i can't really remember that fine detail now, but he knew what he was doing to protect the lathe. I know it slipped round with the work while he welded with the mig, he'd done loads of work that way and it worked real well with his lathe on slow speed. I'll just add his lathe was a very nice old-school machine without electronics that wouldn't like welding near them. Thanks for the video, take care.
That's interesting about the copper tubing ground, I've seen guys use stripped copper wire in the same fashion for a ground. I bet the tubing worked pretty slick.
@@tommyt2854 Yes it did that old guy could figure things out. The things he could do in that machine shop in his garden were pretty impressive . Somebody told him once he couldn't make choke sleeves for a shot gun barrel. He told them bring the gun barrels, blank of material and final bore measurement on Monday, and come pick it up Wednesday. I saw that when he'd finished and the fit was absolutely amazing, considering he machined it in several shorter areas .He was sliding it up in the headstock as he went to stop it bending over the 28" length as he machined it because it was so thin ! That was on the lathe he did the shaft welding on to it never hurt it one bit.
I worked with a guy that welded on a big lathe and he used to put a rod through the headstock that had a foot on it that looked like it had been braised everywhere it made contact to the Chuck. I’m sure it probably arc up the backing plate up some but it works really well if memory serves me right. I think the rod was painted everywhere it wasn’t supposed to make contact.
Of all the machining channels I like most the repair of regular mechanical things , your repair is a fine example of keeping machines working , And I like that !
What an amazingly wide & deep skill set you have young man. I very much enjoy watching. you work. I learn something every video. To be so talented you are also very humble. Nice combination of personality traits.
Sure appreciate you posting bud, I learn quite a bit. I've never built up a shaft, and originally thought you "had" to go around, as parallel welds would pull it. I guess it doesn't really matter since it'll get machined.
And yea, love 309 for repair work. I've built up quite a few broken cast pieces.
And double yea, you'll never wear out or damage the bearings in your roll-out wheel by arcing through them. That's the only way I've seen pipeliners rig them.
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Advice:
Disassemble your ingenious rotary welding table, wash out the
bearings clean- then repack with *Dielectric* grease. No arcing,
increased ground flow, great moisture prevention.
Awesome job 👍👍👍
Looking great.....thanks for sharing......Paul in Florida
I just hope I can build a role out wheel 2 day.
Any idea how those shafts retain the bearing without an end bolt or a circlip slot?
I'm not sure how that worked I was confused about that too.
@@EEJester1586 Didn't seem like a taper press fit did it?
@@merlepatterson I think the roller they where holding just floated inside the stub shafts but I’m not sure I need to go look at it. Brillion cultipacker/seeder is what the customer called it.
@@EEJester1586 Yeah, that's interesting.
I had to laugh about your roll out wheel and the fear of welding through a bearing
My mind sees the ground / current flowing through the shaft to the lathe chuck
Not flowing through the inside of a bearing to the outside of the bearing
Be careful don"t crank up the stick welder too far
and weld the jaws of the chuck together LOL
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Awesome job as always!!!
last week Keith Fenner did a shaft built up with stick and 309. marine shafting....
..he does the longitudinal baads like you did , jumping from onside to the other to
keep the distortion down.....you did a great job there......curious abut your South Bend lathe?
what size is it......it sure seems to take bigger cuts than nine, and I just installed
a new nylon and rubber belt, but I was turning some really hard unknown steel, .I think I have the same model ......
al the best wishes, I reported a troll who said nasty things about you and your shop ad work.....looks like
YOuTube is checking them out.....best wishes, Paul
Yes sir you do have to watch your distortion on long pieces these being so short wasn’t a big issue. My Southbend is a 16” by 60” 1947 model tough little Lathe for its size. I think I was taking .045” per pass not bad for that insert. If I had a positive rake could’ve taken a lot more. Thank you Mr. Paul I appreciate you watching my back.
@@EEJester1586 Mine is a 13" 6 foot bed tool room .. 40" between centers with a taper attachment, no collet closer or spindle adapter for Morse taper or collets, does have a 3 and 4 jaw and stedy rest..........just got a new belt....I used to do a a lot of build up on a 1900 lathe that had a bed 15 long, and 24" swing, we put vfd and geared down to as slow as 1/4 rpm, yes, 1/4 rpm, attached the mig gun to tool post and let it run.....it was great for build up......then transferred to a more modern lathe,,,,1960's for turning.....even did some cool stainless on the old gal......take care my Mississippi Friend.....your Florida friend, Paul
Good job with the repair . 👍
Thank you. I enjoyed your line boring you did the other day on your lathe that was a neat set up.
Полезное приспособление для наплавки и ремонта валов
Helpful devise👍👍👍👍👍
always build up shafts and journals a quarter inch high. thatll give you an eighth a side to cut. no sense in doing anyuthing twice for no reason.
Always happy to see a new video from you pop up. Keep em coming!
👍🏼👍🏼 MM77 Approved
Thanks for sharing another great video! Did you harden and temper the axles after the lathe work? Thanks again!
Thanks for watching. No I didn’t. These axles where not hardened when they where made so I didn’t think they needed it. Would take a stainless steel filler metal to get much hardness and any harder than that they would have to be re-machined out of a solid piece.
👍🍻
Attach a can opener to sprocket with belt.
Foot pedal actuated, interrupted by a
light dimmer switch, Hands free,
tunable speed rotation.
Electric can opener- Amazon- $20
Foot pedal switch- Amazon- $23
Dimmer switch- Amazon- $15
Cogged belt- Amazon- $10 - $25
Dirty working space, low qualiti products, poor welding. everything look like in Parkistan channel. Not in American
go troll somewhere else TROLL
You don’t have to watch it there bud. Go watch some millennial that pay somebody to clean their shop.
@@EEJester1586 he is trolling from Saigon...where they can steal a radio and leave the music I hear....I reported him to RUclips, but I guess they thought it was not hate speech......cheers, Paul
@@ypaulbrown hahaha funny stuff.