Used the #2 form a gasket on both 78’s back in the 80’s and 90’s - works fantastic with gaskets. Now everything is RTV, which most people over apply. I will pick up another tube of the form a gasket for my 79 when needed. I liked the 351M. First truck developed an overheat condition, and nothing seemed to fix it. T-stat, hoses, flushes, bypass heater core, new intake gaskets and valley pan, etc. Pulled it and dropped in a 400, no problems. 2nd truck no problems. They both ran good. My 79 had the same overheat issue (351M) according to the previous owner, so they dropped in a earlier 70’s 460. Love it, lots of torque. Best of luck with your truck. They are awesome trucks in my opinion. I also own a 2004 F350 6.0 for plowing and my daily driver for the last 12 years is a 09 F250 Super Duty 5.4 - been a highly dependable truck. No engine work at all besides 2 sets of plugs, it has 121k on the clock now. I have always owned a Ford truck, with the exception of 8 years when I owned a 01 ram 1500 with a 318 and 5 speed manual. It was a dog. Cost me alot in repairs over 8 years from new. Traded it in 09 with 66k on the clock. What junk for low miles and never abused. Always owned Fords and I learned my lesson. Sure, Ford does stupid stuff, but they all do, so I will stick with whats been good to me and what has held up the best - Ford baby! Peace.
very good young man I like the writing of dates on stuff you replace. I do that with all my tools but not my parts. I think I will start that on my fuel pump when I replace it today. thanks again
Just fired up my 79. First issue was gas poring out the back of my edelbrock carb. Fixed that to find my pump shooting gas on the exhaust manifold. Now that I've run a decent amount of gas through the system I think I plugged a filter I installed at the gas tank. Man letting a truck sit for 15 years is a bad thing. LOL
Yes it is a straight swap from a 351M to the 400. Some of the accessories and probably the exhaust manifolds are slightly different because of the year difference but everything else is straight forward. The distributor and everything from the 351m will plug into the 400. The 400 also probably came out of a car so the the oil pan will be backwards so you will want to use the one off the 351M along with the oil pickup.
I don't know the compression. The lower the compression the cheaper the gas you can use, although in 73 they were still rated for leaded gasoline. It is my understanding that the cylinder heads are a direct swap as well. This can effect comp ratio. I know there are casting #s on everything and online you can see exactly what you have with the two motors. I had a 78 bronco w 400 and this 78 f150 with 351M . The 400 was a HUGE power difference. I pulled this 351M out of a Ford LTD 75-76 (Free)
So your 73 400 needs a valve job? You will need to put hardened valves in so you can run unleaded gasoline efficiently. The lead helped to cool the valves and without using lead (or lead substitute) you can actually suck a valve up into the head. Or again look into swapping the heads from your 351m that is already set up for unleaded.
That's an odd swap. Most people stay in the same model like a 360 or 390 (assuming it came with the 352 to start). I like the 351m/400 engine there just isn't a huge following for them. If I recall the 460 uses the same transmission bolt pattern so they are fairly easy swap. You probably have the C6 automatic behind it?
I'd recommend installing a fuel filter between the fuel pump and tank to make your fuel pump last longer. Rust from a tank will destroy the diaphragm in a fuel pump pretty quick.
+Dan P That's not a bad idea BUT a fuel pump has limiting suction power and slight restriction can cause it to not pull gas up. That being said, all the failed pumps I have disassembled have failed do to a dried up diaphragm. If you did put a filter inline I would use a metal mesh filter and not a media filter.
They don't dry up if they're wet and they can't stay wet if debris from the tank cause a leak in the diaphragm. My dad's 79 f250 400 has a lot of rust debris even after treating the tank so it's a must have item for him. Having it installed is not causing any issues.
Thanks man. Nice ride! Mine is a 79 straight 6. That's a cool idea to wright stuff on your parts. I use a google doc with all part #s, dates, settings, etc. So I don't have to think next time. ha.
thanks, young fella for the brilliant video it made me remember what angle I installed the pump I'll be working on the pump in the morning, I see you have lots of room with your truck to maneuver your hands I have to remove the power steering unit to get hands in there and the cross member is very close to where the two hoses are connected, I have an 81 4x4 35c Bronco had for many years Nga mihi
Hi, just getting back to the fuel pump. The previous owner cut the pipe leaving an inch or so from the pump remaining, on the line going from the fuel pump to the carburettor. So now I am looking for an adaptor that I can fasten in at the fuel pump and then clamp a fuel line to. Same size connector on the inlet of the fuel pump that is used for the line from the tank. (Which seems to be fixed to the body of the pump). Any thing come to mind?
OldDog NewTricks I think I understand. You can either go to a wrecking yard and cut off the fitting or buy a 1/4" NPT Male x 3/8" Hose Barb Fitting online or at you local auto parts store.
nice job! im looking at a 78 ford fleetside shortbed right now that has no motor. if i can get it for a few bucks,ill do a dependability restoration ,and use it as my work truck.
I just can't seem to get to the top bolt on mine the power steering pump is in the way do I need to move it? Also my valve cover says 351 m400. But the intake and outtake for the fuel are on opposite sides the intake is towards the firewall where the hose that goes to the carburetor is pointed towards the front fender.
I had a huge tube of tat #2 gasket crap, but I threw it away lol. It was the crappiest stuff I have ever used, my dad used to be a automotive mechanic and he said he never once saw that crap work, fluids would push it right out of the way and leak instantly.
Thanks. Good Point..Eng. came out of a 73" mercury. Are the 73's in a low compression era? if so, what might I do to rectify that, if it is an issue or not?
Have a 1980 F150 4x4 w/ 351M. Have a 1973 400 w/ 60,000 miles on eng. stand. needs valve job. Is it prettymuch a straight swap or am I going to run into issues? My understanding is I put new distributor in for electronic ignition and good to go. Prob. new oil pump also. will everything hook up ok?
Hi, a little bit off topic. When I got the truck delivered there was two plastic inner fender liners in the back of the truck. I am guessing they are for the front. Do you have them installed? Thanks,
OldDog NewTricks I don't have them installed and I don't think I've ever seen plastic liners on a 73-79 Ford truck. The rears did have a small plastic shield that covers the front inner side on the fender.
Hi, I have bought a 1978 f100 as a project vehicle Unfortunately there are a few things missing. Like the fuel line attaching at carb. Your video was a big help. After watching, I will check a few things tomorrow in the light. My F100 was built in Australia and there are a few things different to US. Can you do a video showing? * Fuel line from carb to tank * Do you have AC, if so can you show (there seems to be a spare pulley of the crank shaft of mine, closest pullet to the radiator. I wonder if it was for an AC, not sure where it would go into the cab). Thanks,
OldDog NewTricks You can just run a rubber hose from the tank to the fuel pump and then from the fuel pump to the carb. Nothing fancy or special about it. Chances are the engine was swapped or it did have AC and the AC compressor was removed.
Hey Buddy, nice vid. I have a question though. I have a 1979 Lincoln Mark V with Ford 400. When I disconnect the first fuel line the gas just keeps coming and coming. About 1 1/2 gallons have drained out with it not letting up. The repair manual says nothing about jacking the front end of the car up or anything. What's going on?
+Sammy Haggerty It's just siphoning out from the tank. If it's rubber stick a bolt into it, if it's steel put a piece of rubber hose on it and then a bolt or just let it dump into a gas can.
The lobe for pumping is at its highest point pushing the pump arm. You can rotate the engine 1/2 a turn and this should make it easier. It will always push on the arm a little bit though.
Like many of you, I cannot get the pump back in under the cam lobe. At least, it feels like I can't. Regardless of how I put it in, the arm just moves around in a big empty space. How do you know when you've positively got it in the right place? This is hardest part of the swap and the video shows virtually nothing.
I'm having trouble putting a fuel pump on my 1978 Ford F-250. I tried putting the pump in many different ways but it feels like it hits something and it doesn't sit right. I tried putting grease on it and still doesn't want to go in. I don't want to force it in. I would imagine it'll go in easily but doesn't seem like it. Hopefully you can help me out. Thank you for your time
Put it in with the plunger lever pointing slightly down. This will make sure it is under the Camshaft Fuel Pump lobe. Now it won't want to sit level on the mounting flange without force. This is normal because the cam lobe is pressing on the fuel pump lever. Force it level and bolt it up.
Hi, took fuel line off and cleaned it out. Used form a gasket on barb fitting. Syphoned old fuel out. Came to put new fuel in and as fuel goes in to the tank it rises up the fill tube. So I have to stop, then it settles down and I can add more, but again it rises up the neck. Must be something to do with a vent or the Evap canister? Any ideas, Thanks.
I would like to get the petrol option working. I bought a 1/4" NPT Male x 3/8" Hose Barb Fitting. For a test I connected the mechanical pump to a jerry can. The car started and the pump seemed to pump. (The threads of the fitting seemed to leak though - is ptfe tape an option here?). The engine ran, but was rough. I am not sure of the tank and fuel line as they were disconnected. I pulled the bolt out of the fuel line that the previous owner had put in and the old fuel looked kind of jelly like. Not sure how to go about checking / cleaning the tank (Leaks etc) or the fuel line. Any suggestions?
OldDog NewTricks They sell yellow teflon tape that is petroleum resistant or you can use "form a gasket" on the threads. Cleaning the old tank can be a time consuming job. Acetone will dissolve old gas and help you clean it out.
I have a '79 Ranger with the 351m. I was driving it a couple days ago only for it to die on me. Got out, took a look and came to the conclusion that fuel wasn't getting to the carb. I replaced the fuel pump, but to no success. It'll crank and all, but there isn't any fuel getting in. Any ideas?
Make sure your fuel line before the pump don't have a hole in them. The pumps take a while to prime with fuel with only engine cranking. You can speed up the process by filling the carb through the vent holes with gas(it'll allow the engine to run for 30+ seconds).
I would check if there is a hole in the line prior to the pump. You can eliminate the pump being the issue by putting a fuel line from the pump directly into a gas can(bypassing the stock fuel tank).
Did mine today 83 351C...not easy! Had to remove bottom radiator hose and drop the coolant to allow spanner decent access for bottom nut. Then I had to unbolt power steering pump to allow me to remove and install fuel pump...Things are never straightforward as in the book or on RUclips!
@@sixtyfiveford Thank you. Di you have any issues with the cam rod that drive the pump needing to be held from falling out? I've heard some people use grease to keep in place?
@@sixtyfiveford I was wondering the same but also wondering what type of grease? I've got some high heat grease for bearings, can I just use that or should I use a different grade of grease?
I feel like I'm doing this wrong. I point the tip down but I end up hitting something. it doesn't matter if I point it up or down it I can only get it to slide in 1 way. It just slides onto the stud and then if I push on the bottom of the fuel pump inward I can get the lever to move enough for me to start the thread.
motokokoto Sounds like your doing correctly. There is a egg shaped lobe on the cam that the fuel pump arm rides on. As the cam spins it pushes the arm up and down. It will always touch a little but may feel like you really have to lever it if the cam lobe is in the highest position. You can force it in or rotate the motor a little so the cam is in the lower spot.
+sixtyfiveford I have to do this with my 1977 Ford Ranchero GT and I am not sure which side of the pump is the inlet and which is the outlet. Hopefully the threaded side is the inlet like yours was but I am not sure. The Mechanical fuel pump has been disconnected for a while because we have been running Electronic fuel pumps on it. is the threaded end always the inlet or could it be the outlet sometimes? Anyway we are going back to old School because I do not like the electronic fuel pumps. Even my Edelbrock fuel pump sucks. I might put it in the back to resolve vapor lock issues if there are any, but I want to just go straight old School if I can get away with it. like I say though it has one on it. So it is just a matter of figuring out which side is inlet and which is outlet. Any Suggestions man? Thanks!
It's just the opposite. The threaded side goes up to the carb(outlet) and the barbed side(inlet) comes from the tank. This is the same on all because the engine needs to move/flex independently of the vehicle frame/gas line. So the barbed side allows for flexible fuel hose from the gas tank.
Oh Awesome!! Thank you for your help. I got her installed and she runs beautifully. No more Electrical junk pumps.. $15 for the mech pump and we are rolling well. too a little starting fluid and a few cranks.. But we got it. Turns out the pump that was on it (Mechanical) one did not suck or blow anymore. Maybe the valves in it went bad or maybe the diaphragm inside dry rotted. They take some torture for sure!
Good video, thanks: my fuel pump on a 78 400 has started leaking out of a small hole at the top of the casting... I wonder if a small screw has come loose, and fallen out, I can poke a piece of stiff wire in there, from the oil filter side, but cannot see if it's threaded, Almost looks like the casting is held together there, but the other side, facing foreward near the power steering pump, has a similar cast moulding, but no hole. Any ideas on that, anyone ?? Maybe i can try JB weld paste to block the hole ?
Ah, 😕 thanks for reply, 65 Ford, I am in England ... can i block the hole up temporarily, until i source a replacement pump, or won't that work ? maybe fuel pressure will blow the JB weld out ... Worth a try, I still getfuel up to the float chamber !
@@chrisfranklin2104 It won't work. The rubber diaphragm is ruptured so it won't pump fuel. If the chamber is allowed to fill with fuel it could hydro lock the pump and bend the pump arm and or destroy the camshaft fuel pump lobe. You would be best to just temporarily bypass the pump with a low pressure electric fuel pump.
You kind of confused me on some stuff you said, your glad you never took your repairs to who? I've never used gasket sealant on the fuel pump on my truck and it's never leaked. Honda Bond 4 is the good stuff, I once spent 20 minutes trying to get that #2 crap off of me, horrible stuff to use especially on intake manifold coolant ports or stuff like that.
the auto store can't seem to give me a straight answer- I have a 87 f350 with a 351w with a mechanical pump just like that one. I shouldn't have an electrical pump also right? I'll sub if you reply ty
I have never seen a Ford with electric and mechanical fuel pumps. You should only have one or the other. If you have a fuel pump relay/fuse in your system you may have an electric fuel pump.
I did same thing trying to go under the cam lobe but it keeps slipping off, I know I feel the arm of pump sliding past timing chain to the left, then I catch under lobe as soon as I compress the arm to slip the first stud on top of the fuel pump in the slips right off, I take it I just need to rotate the engine?
@@sixtyfiveford YES CHEVY does you remove one short bolt and replace with a longer bolt. Put a little tension on the rod to hold it in place. but remember to switch the bolts back when your done.
Am trying to install one in my 1979 Mercury cougar and it's giving me all types of hell can someone help me out with how to install it I would very much appreciate it
These can be a little bit of a pain. The lever arm needs to be depressed by the camshaft fuel pump lobe. So you need to insert the pump with the lever tipped down. Then force it flat on the mounting surface. You will be fighting the spring pressure of the lever arm while getting the bolts are installed.
Nope, very few had round. Only the lowest trim level (Custom) had round all the higher trim levels in 78 had rectangle. And this was only half way through the season. In late 1978 model run even the lowest trim level came factory with rectangle. In 1979 all trim levels had rectangle. So it is actually a rarity to see round headlight on a 1978 Ford Truck. It is not uncommon for people to swap grill assemblies from earlier years and adapt the round headlights. Here is the 1978 brochure with a rectangle headlight truck on the front. www.fordification.com/library/main.php?g2_itemId=4150
sixtyfiveford It's not really that uncommon for round headlight 78's there were a lot of customs made, I've actually seen more round headlight 78's than I have squares but that is affected by location I'm sure. In 1978 all of the "custom" trim levels had round headlights, they didn't switch to square mid year.
sixtyfiveford Also to add to your comment about the engine from your video, a 351m and 400 are two different engines, not the same thing. The 400 came first then when Ford decided to make the 351m they de-stroked the 400, both were still available. Everything is interchangeable between the two besides the crank and pistons. There's no such thing as a 400m.
Ryan Juntunen In spring of 1978 Ford completely discontinued the round headlights. Thus late '78 Customs still being produced in the factory were switched to rectangular headlights as standard equipment. Even a quick Google image search of 1978 Ford custom will bring up images with only a portion of them having round headlights. I Did have an early 1978 Custom Bronco with round headlights so I didn't say they didn't. The original poster commented that all '78 Ford trucks had round headlights which is far from the truth. The 351M/400 are different cid engines but are referred together as the same only because there is no observable physical differences. Most people with a 351M will boast that they have the bigger 400 without ever knowing. Technically Ford never called the 400 a 400M but everyone who knows Ford motors knows exactly what you are referring to and it is very common practice.
sixtyfiveford About the engines, when you said "whatever you want to call it" I took it as you thought they were the same engine like many people do. I was just trying to help out and say what is correct about them. The only reason I mentioned the "m" not being on the 400 is again because many people think it is there. I know a lot of people know what you're talking about but for me I try to make sure anyone who does say that knows what it really is. It's just like calling a 460 a big block since ford never used that term but the aftermarket does.
DO NOT PUT THAT IN!!! IF YOUR STATE HAS ETHONAL GAS!!! my cleveland runs the same pump and I have had 5 fail and dump gas in oil!.go aftermarket for the pump for sure...
he wasnt a very good mechanic then. It never failed for me. You have to have somekind of sealant on these types of gaskets. Glad I did not take my repairs to him
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Used the #2 form a gasket on both 78’s back in the 80’s and 90’s - works fantastic with gaskets. Now everything is RTV, which most people over apply. I will pick up another tube of the form a gasket for my 79 when needed.
I liked the 351M. First truck developed an overheat condition, and nothing seemed to fix it. T-stat, hoses, flushes, bypass heater core, new intake gaskets and valley pan, etc. Pulled it and dropped in a 400, no problems. 2nd truck no problems. They both ran good.
My 79 had the same overheat issue (351M) according to the previous owner, so they dropped in a earlier 70’s 460. Love it, lots of torque.
Best of luck with your truck. They are awesome trucks in my opinion. I also own a 2004 F350 6.0 for plowing and my daily driver for the last 12 years is a 09 F250 Super Duty 5.4 - been a highly dependable truck. No engine work at all besides 2 sets of plugs, it has 121k on the clock now. I have always owned a Ford truck, with the exception of 8 years when I owned a 01 ram 1500 with a 318 and 5 speed manual. It was a dog. Cost me alot in repairs over 8 years from new. Traded it in 09 with 66k on the clock. What junk for low miles and never abused. Always owned Fords and I learned my lesson.
Sure, Ford does stupid stuff, but they all do, so I will stick with whats been good to me and what has held up the best - Ford baby! Peace.
very good young man I like the writing of dates on stuff you replace. I do that with all my tools but not my parts. I think I will start that on my fuel pump when I replace it today. thanks again
I seam to keep stuff for a long time, so I find it handy to know how long parts last.
This was for the best video I've seen that helped me trying to get that ride in there is confusing when it's your first time
Just fired up my 79. First issue was gas poring out the back of my edelbrock carb. Fixed that to find my pump shooting gas on the exhaust manifold. Now that I've run a decent amount of gas through the system I think I plugged a filter I installed at the gas tank. Man letting a truck sit for 15 years is a bad thing. LOL
Thanks you need a 1/2" line wrench and a 5/8" to hold it. two 1/2" bolts head hold it! I need to get #2 form a gasket though!
Yes it is a straight swap from a 351M to the 400. Some of the accessories and probably the exhaust manifolds are slightly different because of the year difference but everything else is straight forward. The distributor and everything from the 351m will plug into the 400. The 400 also probably came out of a car so the the oil pan will be backwards so you will want to use the one off the 351M along with the oil pickup.
I don't know the compression. The lower the compression the cheaper the gas you can use, although in 73 they were still rated for leaded gasoline. It is my understanding that the cylinder heads are a direct swap as well. This can effect comp ratio. I know there are casting #s on everything and online you can see exactly what you have with the two motors. I had a 78 bronco w 400 and this 78 f150 with 351M . The 400 was a HUGE power difference. I pulled this 351M out of a Ford LTD 75-76 (Free)
great vids, im doing another fuel pump learned how to do this a couple years ago watching this vid.
+Billy Bob Hey Thanks.
So your 73 400 needs a valve job? You will need to put hardened valves in so you can run unleaded gasoline efficiently. The lead helped to cool the valves and without using lead (or lead substitute) you can actually suck a valve up into the head. Or again look into swapping the heads from your 351m that is already set up for unleaded.
That's an odd swap. Most people stay in the same model like a 360 or 390 (assuming it came with the 352 to start). I like the 351m/400 engine there just isn't a huge following for them. If I recall the 460 uses the same transmission bolt pattern so they are fairly easy swap. You probably have the C6 automatic behind it?
They came with 351m/400 as well
I'd recommend installing a fuel filter between the fuel pump and tank to make your fuel pump last longer. Rust from a tank will destroy the diaphragm in a fuel pump pretty quick.
+Dan P That's not a bad idea BUT a fuel pump has limiting suction power and slight restriction can cause it to not pull gas up. That being said, all the failed pumps I have disassembled have failed do to a dried up diaphragm. If you did put a filter inline I would use a metal mesh filter and not a media filter.
They don't dry up if they're wet and they can't stay wet if debris from the tank cause a leak in the diaphragm. My dad's 79 f250 400 has a lot of rust debris even after treating the tank so it's a must have item for him. Having it installed is not causing any issues.
thanks for the tip about the #2 FormAGasket. I thinks I'll get some tonight.
Thanks man. Nice ride! Mine is a 79 straight 6.
That's a cool idea to wright stuff on your parts. I use a google doc with all part #s, dates, settings, etc. So I don't have to think next time. ha.
Those 300s are great engines. My brother had a 77 with a straight 6.
Thanks for the helpful tip on the install I have been just struggling.
Glad it helped
That's good to write dates on changing parts of your vehicle that is a great idea thanks.
Thanks.
Smashing job :-)
Yep you have to watch the suppliers like a hawk otherwise they make mistakes.
Thanks for video. What did your shirt have on it? It was blurd out.
I wonder if it will be that easy for my 81 ford bronco but ya showed me a good way to start . Awesome vid thanks.
Oh yeah, It will be identical if you have the 351m or 400.
thanks, young fella for the brilliant video it made me remember what angle I installed the pump I'll be working on the pump in the morning, I see you have lots of room with your truck to maneuver your hands I have to remove the power steering unit to get hands in there and the cross member is very close to where the two hoses are connected, I have an 81 4x4 35c Bronco had for many years
Nga mihi
Not getting any fuel to my carb. Mines an 83 with the 351m. Is this the only pump on these older fuel systems?
Yes, just one pump.
Hi, just getting back to the fuel pump.
The previous owner cut the pipe leaving an inch or so from the pump remaining, on the line going from the fuel pump to the carburettor.
So now I am looking for an adaptor that I can fasten in at the fuel pump and then clamp a fuel line to.
Same size connector on the inlet of the fuel pump that is used for the line from the tank. (Which seems to be fixed to the body of the pump).
Any thing come to mind?
OldDog NewTricks I think I understand. You can either go to a wrecking yard and cut off the fitting or buy a 1/4" NPT Male x 3/8" Hose Barb Fitting online or at you local auto parts store.
With gas prices the way they are people seem to be giving these old truck away for a song.
nice job! im looking at a 78 ford fleetside shortbed right now that has no motor. if i can get it for a few bucks,ill do a dependability restoration ,and use it as my work truck.
I just can't seem to get to the top bolt on mine the power steering pump is in the way do I need to move it? Also my valve cover says 351 m400. But the intake and outtake for the fuel are on opposite sides the intake is towards the firewall where the hose that goes to the carburetor is pointed towards the front fender.
Yeah, you may need to move the power steering pump.
I had a huge tube of tat #2 gasket crap, but I threw it away lol. It was the crappiest stuff I have ever used, my dad used to be a automotive mechanic and he said he never once saw that crap work, fluids would push it right out of the way and leak instantly.
Thanks. Good Point..Eng. came out of a 73" mercury.
Are the 73's in a low compression era? if so, what might I do to rectify that, if it is an issue or not?
Have a 1980 F150 4x4 w/ 351M. Have a 1973 400 w/ 60,000 miles on eng. stand. needs valve job. Is it prettymuch a straight swap or am I going to run into issues? My understanding is I put new distributor in for electronic ignition and good to go. Prob. new oil pump also. will everything hook up ok?
When I changed out my fuel pump on my 79 F150, I changed out the small fuel hose from the fuel supply line to the inlet of the pump.
Hi, a little bit off topic. When I got the truck delivered there was two plastic inner fender liners in the back of the truck.
I am guessing they are for the front. Do you have them installed?
Thanks,
OldDog NewTricks I don't have them installed and I don't think I've ever seen plastic liners on a 73-79 Ford truck. The rears did have a small plastic shield that covers the front inner side on the fender.
Good video! Thanks for sharing.
Hi, I have bought a 1978 f100 as a project vehicle
Unfortunately there are a few things missing.
Like the fuel line attaching at carb.
Your video was a big help.
After watching, I will check a few things tomorrow in the light.
My F100 was built in Australia and there are a few things different to US.
Can you do a video showing?
* Fuel line from carb to tank
* Do you have AC, if so can you show (there seems to be a spare pulley of the crank shaft of mine, closest pullet to the radiator. I wonder if it was for an AC, not sure where it would go into the cab).
Thanks,
OldDog NewTricks You can just run a rubber hose from the tank to the fuel pump and then from the fuel pump to the carb. Nothing fancy or special about it. Chances are the engine was swapped or it did have AC and the AC compressor was removed.
Hey Buddy, nice vid. I have a question though. I have a 1979 Lincoln Mark V with Ford 400. When I disconnect the first fuel line the gas just keeps coming and coming. About 1 1/2 gallons have drained out with it not letting up. The repair manual says nothing about jacking the front end of the car up or anything. What's going on?
+Sammy Haggerty It's just siphoning out from the tank. If it's rubber stick a bolt into it, if it's steel put a piece of rubber hose on it and then a bolt or just let it dump into a gas can.
My bolts aren't lining up, they're about half an inch below where they should be.. any help?
The lobe for pumping is at its highest point pushing the pump arm. You can rotate the engine 1/2 a turn and this should make it easier. It will always push on the arm a little bit though.
Like many of you, I cannot get the pump back in under the cam lobe. At least, it feels like I can't. Regardless of how I put it in, the arm just moves around in a big empty space. How do you know when you've positively got it in the right place?
This is hardest part of the swap and the video shows virtually nothing.
You're over thinking it. If the pump sits squarely on it's mount, it's in the right position.
So the pump are goes under the cam lobe?
Easy to put in when engine is out of frame, but not when traveling, and you need to do a roadside replacement.
For sure.
Dude it was a hell of a chore but I got it .
Awesome. Some of the bolts can be a PAIN!
I'm having trouble putting a fuel pump on my 1978 Ford F-250. I tried putting the pump in many different ways but it feels like it hits something and it doesn't sit right. I tried putting grease on it and still doesn't want to go in. I don't want to force it in. I would imagine it'll go in easily but doesn't seem like it. Hopefully you can help me out. Thank you for your time
Put it in with the plunger lever pointing slightly down. This will make sure it is under the Camshaft Fuel Pump lobe. Now it won't want to sit level on the mounting flange without force. This is normal because the cam lobe is pressing on the fuel pump lever. Force it level and bolt it up.
thanks I'll try it
Am trying to install one in my 79 Mercury cougar is giving me hell how do install it in my car please someone help me out
did you have trouble putting in? did you have to force it in or did it go in smoothly?
Did you ever get an answer to your question..I am wondering the same
Hi, took fuel line off and cleaned it out.
Used form a gasket on barb fitting.
Syphoned old fuel out.
Came to put new fuel in and as fuel goes in to the tank it rises up the fill tube.
So I have to stop, then it settles down and I can add more, but again it rises up the neck.
Must be something to do with a vent or the Evap canister?
Any ideas,
Thanks.
OldDog NewTricks The large rubber fuel hose that connects the metal filler nozzle and tank is more than likely kinked.
Yes.
Hopefully you find a use for it. Thanks for watching.
I would like to get the petrol option working. I bought a 1/4" NPT Male x 3/8" Hose Barb Fitting. For a test I connected the mechanical pump to a jerry can. The car started and the pump seemed to pump. (The threads of the fitting seemed to leak though - is ptfe tape an option here?). The engine ran, but was rough.
I am not sure of the tank and fuel line as they were disconnected. I pulled the bolt out of the fuel line that the previous owner had put in and the old fuel looked kind of jelly like.
Not sure how to go about checking / cleaning the tank (Leaks etc) or the fuel line. Any suggestions?
OldDog NewTricks They sell yellow teflon tape that is petroleum resistant or you can use "form a gasket" on the threads. Cleaning the old tank can be a time consuming job. Acetone will dissolve old gas and help you clean it out.
I have a '79 Ranger with the 351m. I was driving it a couple days ago only for it to die on me. Got out, took a look and came to the conclusion that fuel wasn't getting to the carb. I replaced the fuel pump, but to no success. It'll crank and all, but there isn't any fuel getting in. Any ideas?
Make sure your fuel line before the pump don't have a hole in them. The pumps take a while to prime with fuel with only engine cranking. You can speed up the process by filling the carb through the vent holes with gas(it'll allow the engine to run for 30+ seconds).
+sixtyfiveford So I've been putting fuel in the vent holes, but to no luck. It'll do as you said, crank run for a couple seconds but nothin.
I would check if there is a hole in the line prior to the pump. You can eliminate the pump being the issue by putting a fuel line from the pump directly into a gas can(bypassing the stock fuel tank).
Nice video man thanks for the help
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Yea that dam pump was hell I should of invested in a swivel joint earlier
Did mine today 83 351C...not easy! Had to remove bottom radiator hose and drop the coolant to allow spanner decent access for bottom nut. Then I had to unbolt power steering pump to allow me to remove and install fuel pump...Things are never straightforward as in the book or on RUclips!
+Ian McKay True.
Can I hook the fuel lines up first?
Yes, if they have enough flexibility.
Last time the guy changed the oil in the truck I bought 10 years ago
Why lube the fuel pump lever arm when it gets oil splashed on it from the engine to lubricate it?
Because it's dry and may not get oil for a while upon initial startup.
@@sixtyfiveford Thank you. Di you have any issues with the cam rod that drive the pump needing to be held from falling out? I've heard some people use grease to keep in place?
@@sixtyfiveford I was wondering the same but also wondering what type of grease? I've got some high heat grease for bearings, can I just use that or should I use a different grade of grease?
Is your truck a 4x4 or 2x4
I feel like I'm doing this wrong. I point the tip down but I end up hitting something. it doesn't matter if I point it up or down it I can only get it to slide in 1 way. It just slides onto the stud and then if I push on the bottom of the fuel pump inward I can get the lever to move enough for me to start the thread.
motokokoto Sounds like your doing correctly. There is a egg shaped lobe on the cam that the fuel pump arm rides on. As the cam spins it pushes the arm up and down. It will always touch a little but may feel like you really have to lever it if the cam lobe is in the highest position. You can force it in or rotate the motor a little so the cam is in the lower spot.
+sixtyfiveford I have to do this with my 1977 Ford Ranchero GT and I am not sure which side of the pump is the inlet and which is the outlet. Hopefully the threaded side is the inlet like yours was but I am not sure. The Mechanical fuel pump has been disconnected for a while because we have been running Electronic fuel pumps on it. is the threaded end always the inlet or could it be the outlet sometimes? Anyway we are going back to old School because I do not like the electronic fuel pumps. Even my Edelbrock fuel pump sucks. I might put it in the back to resolve vapor lock issues if there are any, but I want to just go straight old School if I can get away with it. like I say though it has one on it. So it is just a matter of figuring out which side is inlet and which is outlet. Any Suggestions man? Thanks!
It's just the opposite. The threaded side goes up to the carb(outlet) and the barbed side(inlet) comes from the tank. This is the same on all because the engine needs to move/flex independently of the vehicle frame/gas line. So the barbed side allows for flexible fuel hose from the gas tank.
Oh Awesome!! Thank you for your help. I got her installed and she runs beautifully. No more Electrical junk pumps.. $15 for the mech pump and we are rolling well. too a little starting fluid and a few cranks.. But we got it. Turns out the pump that was on it (Mechanical) one did not suck or blow anymore. Maybe the valves in it went bad or maybe the diaphragm inside dry rotted. They take some torture for sure!
Mistakes are made to often it seems. Thanks for watching.
Good video, thanks: my fuel pump on a 78 400 has started leaking out of a small hole at the top of the casting... I wonder if a small screw has come loose, and fallen out, I can poke a piece of stiff wire in there,
from the oil filter side, but cannot see if it's threaded,
Almost looks like the casting is held together there,
but the other side, facing foreward near the power steering pump, has a similar cast moulding, but no hole.
Any ideas on that, anyone ??
Maybe i can try JB weld paste to block the hole ?
That hole is there to show when the diaphragm has ruptured.
Ah, 😕 thanks for reply, 65 Ford,
I am in England ... can i block the hole up temporarily, until i source a replacement pump, or won't that work ? maybe fuel pressure will blow the JB weld out ...
Worth a try, I still getfuel up to the float chamber !
@@chrisfranklin2104 It won't work. The rubber diaphragm is ruptured so it won't pump fuel. If the chamber is allowed to fill with fuel it could hydro lock the pump and bend the pump arm and or destroy the camshaft fuel pump lobe. You would be best to just temporarily bypass the pump with a low pressure electric fuel pump.
Never go in that easy
You kind of confused me on some stuff you said, your glad you never took your repairs to who?
I've never used gasket sealant on the fuel pump on my truck and it's never leaked. Honda Bond 4 is the good stuff, I once spent 20 minutes trying to get that #2 crap off of me, horrible stuff to use especially on intake manifold coolant ports or stuff like that.
Simple enough, I've got to change mine, the pump itself is leaking, i dropped a 400 in my 78 and now I'm replacing everything.
the auto store can't seem to give me a straight answer-
I have a 87 f350 with a 351w with a mechanical pump just like that one. I shouldn't have an electrical pump also right? I'll sub if you reply ty
I have never seen a Ford with electric and mechanical fuel pumps. You should only have one or the other. If you have a fuel pump relay/fuse in your system you may have an electric fuel pump.
sixtyfiveford Ty
I did same thing trying to go under the cam lobe but it keeps slipping off, I know I feel the arm of pump sliding past timing chain to the left, then I catch under lobe as soon as I compress the arm to slip the first stud on top of the fuel pump in the slips right off, I take it I just need to rotate the engine?
Yes, if you rotate the engine will get easier.
Yeah, 15yrs is not good for a vehicle.
dont you need yo put a bolt in to hold the fuel rod in place while changing the pumps
Chevy's have a fuel pump rod, Fords don't.
@@sixtyfiveford YES CHEVY does you remove one short bolt and replace with a longer bolt. Put a little tension on the rod to hold it in place. but remember to switch the bolts back when your done.
me im trying to put a 98 302 in a f100 truck from 78 so trying to figher out the fuel pump
Am trying to install one in my 1979 Mercury cougar and it's giving me all types of hell can someone help me out with how to install it I would very much appreciate it
These can be a little bit of a pain. The lever arm needs to be depressed by the camshaft fuel pump lobe. So you need to insert the pump with the lever tipped down. Then force it flat on the mounting surface. You will be fighting the spring pressure of the lever arm while getting the bolts are installed.
Sorry but the 78 Ford pickups had round headlights.
Nope, very few had round. Only the lowest trim level (Custom) had round all the higher trim levels in 78 had rectangle. And this was only half way through the season. In late 1978 model run even the lowest trim level came factory with rectangle. In 1979 all trim levels had rectangle. So it is actually a rarity to see round headlight on a 1978 Ford Truck. It is not uncommon for people to swap grill assemblies from earlier years and adapt the round headlights. Here is the 1978 brochure with a rectangle headlight truck on the front. www.fordification.com/library/main.php?g2_itemId=4150
sixtyfiveford It's not really that uncommon for round headlight 78's there were a lot of customs made, I've actually seen more round headlight 78's than I have squares but that is affected by location I'm sure. In 1978 all of the "custom" trim levels had round headlights, they didn't switch to square mid year.
sixtyfiveford Also to add to your comment about the engine from your video, a 351m and 400 are two different engines, not the same thing. The 400 came first then when Ford decided to make the 351m they de-stroked the 400, both were still available. Everything is interchangeable between the two besides the crank and pistons. There's no such thing as a 400m.
Ryan Juntunen
In spring of 1978 Ford completely discontinued the round headlights. Thus late '78 Customs still being produced in the factory were switched to rectangular headlights as standard equipment. Even a quick Google image search of 1978 Ford custom will bring up images with only a portion of them having round headlights. I Did have an early 1978 Custom Bronco with round headlights so I didn't say they didn't. The original poster commented that all '78 Ford trucks had round headlights which is far from the truth.
The 351M/400 are different cid engines but are referred together as the same only because there is no observable physical differences. Most people with a 351M will boast that they have the bigger 400 without ever knowing. Technically Ford never called the 400 a 400M but everyone who knows Ford motors knows exactly what you are referring to and it is very common practice.
sixtyfiveford About the engines, when you said "whatever you want to call it" I took it as you thought they were the same engine like many people do. I was just trying to help out and say what is correct about them. The only reason I mentioned the "m" not being on the 400 is again because many people think it is there. I know a lot of people know what you're talking about but for me I try to make sure anyone who does say that knows what it really is. It's just like calling a 460 a big block since ford never used that term but the aftermarket does.
Open end 6 point
DO NOT PUT THAT IN!!!
IF YOUR STATE HAS ETHONAL GAS!!!
my cleveland runs the same pump and I have had 5 fail and dump gas in oil!.go aftermarket for the pump for sure...
Flare nut wrench
Flair nut wrench
Line wrench
Trying for an hour now
The lobe could be pushing down the furthest position. You can rotate the engine quarter of a turn and that would eliminate it.
he wasnt a very good mechanic then. It never failed for me. You have to have somekind of sealant on these types of gaskets. Glad I did not take my repairs to him