1 1:59 remove air cleaner hose 7mm/ remove exhaust heat shield 2 2:29 exhaust band clamp 13mm 3 3:00 vacuum line clip next to throttle body and elec connector clip 4 3:12 charge pipe hose that connects to bottom of turbo 7mm 5 3:36 oil feed supply tube inverse torx or 8mm the other side requires regular torx T-45 place bag over hole 6 4:13 coolant line clamp and bracket bolt 7 5:12 manifold bolts (PB blaster) 8 8:20 Remove skid plate torx 15 screws and drain coolant (use hose) remove coolant cap 9 9:30Turbo drain tube 8mm long extension /swivel - can get to from under car 10 10:50 remove Turbo vacuum line and elec plug (metal clip 11:21) 11 11:29 remove bracket above left side exhaust manifold 12 11:44 Disconnect Turbo oil hose from block 17mm 14:31 mount coolant lines and bracket(10mm) on new turbo Place new Exhaust manifold gasket Drop Turbo in 15:31 Tighten oil hose medium extension 17 mm 16:23 Turbo drain tube (see video swivel set-up) 6point 8mm Exhaust manifold bolts don’t forget heat shield bracket 18:15 (Torque specs?) 18:43 Exhaust clamp band 19:23 Place bracket bolt first-then Oil feed tube 18:53 (Banjo bolt goes on turbo side) 20:00 Heat shield studs 20:16 engine mounts 20:34 Turbo Vacuum line/hose 21:00 Air cleaner hose 21:09 Exhaust heat shield 21:46 Skid plate 22:34 Electric connector clip Close Radiator stop cock- fill with coolant- Burp system Oil change
Hahaha yes, I'm something else alright. lol The Cruzes shown in these videos weren't mine. I was just the lucky guy working on them! Thank you for watching!
My Cruze has been one of the most reliable vehicles I've ever owned. Including imports. In fact, every GM product has been. You want bad? Try owning a frickin Subaru. Head gaskets. The wheels will fall off if you don't carry a 4 way at all times. Etc. This perception of "reliability" is garbage.
@CNCMatrix love to assign an issue that was corrected 25 years ago to everything a manufacturer makes in perpetuity. 😄 That said I'm glad that you're having a good experience with your road going Bic lighter. 😺
@@courier11sec Yeah right, because they still don't have problems and make mistakes, only GM does. Meanwhile my girlfriends '011 Impreza had the same exact issues as my '03 outback did, but you keep on with your illusory truth while I keep driving my "road going bic lighter" that gets 48 mpg and (knock on wood) haven't had to replace not even a simple lightbulb on in almost 100k miles.
@@CNCMatrixI have a 2011 Chevy Cruze. Bought it at 145xxx miles and it’s at 220xxx now. Car still running but I got the code for the cat so since I have extra money I’m replacing the turbo, cat, turbo oil return feed lines. This car has probably been the most reliable car I ever owned.
So I had just got done doing this project on a 2013 Cruze, I purchased the turbo assembly from rock auto. It comes with a new exhaust clamp, new manifold nuts, new manifold gasket, and the round exhaust gasket. I purchased from our local Chevy dealership, new coolant hoses, that attach to the turbo on the back side, oil drain tube, and the little oil line with the Torx screw. Get all those lines new as you don’t want to have to go back in after a month or 2 to replace a line that you did not change. My experience with the round v band clamp that came with the dorman kit from rock auto seemed to be a one time use clamp after the bolt got threaded through the nut it rounded the threads where you couldn’t back the bolt back out. Had to cut the bolt with a die grinder and repurchased another clamp from the dealership. Also I would recommend installing the oil drain line with the 2 bolts to the turbo before installing the assembly, it is a lot easier to pry or push the oil tube into the pan than to install the bolts afterward. Side note vehicle had 162000 miles on it, and did not have any issue’s with the assembly alignment. Also before installing the oil tube with the torx head fill that cavity with some oil to prevent damage to the turbo on initial start.
is the “oil drain line with the 2 bolts” you’re referencing, the ones he had to make his ratchet contraption to put in on the bottom? i was trying to figure out how i was gonna get that done with no lift and just jack stands
First off, thank you for this video and your head gasket replacement video. Helped me save my car. But one thing I did discover during the installation process, you can save yourself a lot of drama with the oil return line if you just bolt it into the turbo first, then either have an assistant hold the turbo while you guide the line into the hole, or if you don't have an assistant, (which I didn't) tack up the turbo to the bracket hole above the exhaust, guide the return line into the hole, then drop the turbo into place and then finish securing the line.
Great video, of course I'm dealing with same codes after I installed a like new turbo and made sure all the lines aren't leaking...my code P2999 did not go away, ...so my concerns are I also replaced a blown head gasket (should've got it resurfaced but I checked with straight edge...got turbo from someone that tried to do this job and I guess failed...I got it for Discount nevertheless it was uninstalled new. Is there something I'm missing?, The car has a coolant issue as well I've changed all sensors but idk It did over heat 1st test drive, ..I can only think a vacuum leak maybe on turbo line or crossed vacuum lines?any help thanks
@Lake Overview Hi, I don't know if you meant to ask me or the creator of the video, but I'll offer my opinion, just don't take it as gospel. With the combination of symptoms you're mentioning, it sounds like you may want to recheck that head gasket job. But if that turns out to be fine, the only thing I could think of for the turbo would be to ask if you reused the same oil lines with the new turbo, especially the oil feed line on top. I made the fatal mistake of reusing my old one (apparently it was clogged) on my new turbo and let's just say I'm on my third turbo now. For the cooling system overheating, did you go through the correct process of bleeding the radiator and topping off the coolant while the car is running with the heat on? Did you replace the thermostat and water pump when you replaced the head gasket? Not sure how necessary it is, but it never hurts. My head gasket blew because I went wayyy too long in between oil changes. I couldn't tell because the oil never leaked, but it was gulping coolant and overheating. I should have known then because I could never find a leak comparable to the amount of coolant I was going through. Then my turbo went out because of what I'm assuming was a sludge clogged oil feed line. I didn't know that at the time and I reused it, like I mentioned earlier, and blew the second turbo too. The day I pulled my dipstick and my oil was creamed colored, I finally had to accept that my head gasket was blown and I parked it until I could replace it. (Which was about 3 levels above my pay grade.) So, from my personal experience, I'd say double check that new head gasket or have it checked. If it's not that, try the other stuff I mentioned. That's about the range of my expertise.
@@robertmiller9491 hi and thanks for your feedback I appreciate any, yes I did use old lines but at first I did blow lines out, then videos are saying to replace so I did,rather my wife did...I also did do the coolant procedure correctly , it wasn't until I started to listen to Spanish mechanics on here is were I found gold, one mechanic had a scanner hooked up and found lots of information regarding this issue of mine and well the turbo system, it was on a newer Cruze but the tech does metion all years/and possible items being change or diagnosed in order to fix issues with turbo system...I hope other find it helpful it's kinda long video but trust you'll screenshot like crazy at the info seen Oh so I what I found was my Cruze needed to be reprogrammed..to make it short I'll also post timestamp when I found my next step.
I'm pretty good at working on cars with no prior knowledge except RUclips videos. Changed just about everything except a turbo, internal engine issues, & transmission. Doing my head gasket on my 2015 Cruze now & thankfully having the right tools & 3 day weekend allows me to do it quickly & efficiently. Thanks for all the time & dedication, it's highly appreciated! I'll update tonight or tomorrow when I get it finished!
@@toxictex6603 Sadly no auto place in my town had the camshaft lock pins so I just ordered them on Amazon & they'll be here Friday. Already have everything else off, so I just have to lock it to TDC, undo the timing chain bolts, undo the head bolts then swap & repeat in reverse. If you're looking at doing this, just know you'll have to pay $51.99 for new head bolts when you get the gasket.
You sir, are God sent. Great video and although I never swapped a turbo out I've done some mechanical work. Your video will go a long way in aiding me and, will save my wife a ton of money by not paying the dealership to do it. Thanks again man and have an awesome day!
@@JJ-fd5pwis the recall specifically for turbo? I've got a little chatter/rattle that just developed in mine a day or so ago. Sitting at right around 69k miles
Sometimes it helps to talk to it - especially those rusted on manifold bolts! Best of luck to you on this job. I hope it all goes smoothly for you. Thanks for watching!
*update in the comments* READ! Auto zone has a Dorman turbo with lifetime warranty for about 620 dollars. It comes with all gaskets and hardware, best bet imo. Dealership told me not to reuse the coolant and oil lines because they leak if you reuse them almost every time. So I ordered all new ones. About $150 for all 4. This is the best video I've seen for this job. Thanks.
So let's say you have a recall on the turbo because of wastage problems from the production line. They put the new turbo in for free. Per the recall... and then charge you $188 for the hoses. Would you agree with that or not?
I'm adding this update for the people thinking buying a Dorman turbo. It's been only 7000 miles and about 8 months and my dorman turbo has failed. I believe it is the wastegate sticking that's causing the po299 code. It feels shot. I'm tearing it out now. Yes it has a lifetime warranty but it needs replacement every 7000 miles is it really worth it? I hate this Chevy cruze! It's by far the worst car I've ever owned! It breaks constantly. My 05 cobalt runs like a top compared to my Cruze. I love that cobalt.
I have done a lot of DIY disassemble and reassemble videos when it comes to major parts and components the way you explained it is awesome the way you try and show the
Loved your video and it saved me from financial ruin. Keep up the good work but i did have one question......What size hose did you use when connecting to the coolant drain?
I *believe* it was 3/8's hose. It doesn't matter if it is a perfect fit, just needs to go over the nipple a little bit to guide the coolant. Thanks for watching, and I'm glad it helped!
I think i would have been able to do this without the video but it would have taken me at least 4 times longer. So thank you very much. Keep up the good work.
This video is incredible, thanks to this video I can know which part I have to change to my encore 2015. But here is my question for how long can I keep running my car with this code P0299?
Of course, I would officially recommend not driving it at all with a check engine light on. It is possible that you will overfuel the engine due to the lack of air which could cause damage to your catalytic converter. However... this car had that light on for a couple months and it was fine (but it wasn't driven every day during that time). Thank you for watching and for your compliments!
Hello I just bought a 2014 Chevy Cruze Lt with turbo engine. It has 86 thousand miles. Needed a cheap car for my daughter to go to work. But now I'm wondering if I should have bought it. My question is what is mileage on Cruze ur changing turbo? Thanks for the video
I don't remember for sure, but I think it was around 70k. Be sure to check the coolant level frequently, as these cars are prone to leaking in various locations. The head gasket is the weak points of this engine. One overheat and you'll be looking at a head gasket job. They are good little cars, but the engine could have been better.
Great video, I am in the middle of doing this swap on my 2012 sonic. Very helpful. One question: are you supposed to pre oil the turbo before starting the engine? A heavy duty mechanic friend of mine mentioned that…
I didn't, and it was fine. However, the politically correct answer would be to ALWAYS pre-oil your turbo! You can hook up the oil drain line, get a funnel, and pour some oil down into the turbo that way just for peace of mind. In my opinion (and I'm sure people will tell me how wrong I am), the turbo and engine are small, it *should* have some sort of lubrication in there from the factory, you aren't going to cold-rev the engine, and it will only take a few seconds for oil to reach the turbo, so I wouldn't worry about it. Definitely doesn't hurt through. How's that for a non-committal answer? Lol Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Amazing video it really helped a lot! Thank you for taking the time! one thing the hose he showed at 9:36 with the 2 screws and one is an impossible screw to get to if you follow it down about 6 inches it isnt bolted in its held on by a clip if you take the clip off itll come out when you pull the manifold. But, thank you for the whole video it helped a ton!
Good pointer! Since I've done this video I've had to do a few more and was able to pull the tube out on one car, but here in the rust belt of upstate NY the rest have been rusted in so they wouldn't pull out. Impossible bolts it is! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!
Those 2 underneath bolts were fun, also i had a stud come out with one of the 8 manifold bolts, also fun. Great video, appreciate it. Mine was cracked pretty good inside the turbo.
Gotta love those rusty manifold bolts! I've had a few come out with the studs and I was able to just put them right back in. Road salt is really hard on cars! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!
Yes, if you remove all the manifold bolts you can pull it forward slightly slide it through. It's a tight fit, but it will go. I've forgotten before as well!
Just curious, is that a .25” line you’re using to drain the coolant? Attempting this repair this weekend on my Sonic, but that drain is genius! Any info would be awesome. Thanks Mate 🍻
Yes, inner diameter was .25. I believe the outer diameter was 3/8. It doesn't have to be perfect. A little heat on the hose will loosen it up if it's a little too tight. A little too big is fine too. There won't be any pressure on the hose - it just needs to transport the coolant down into your container. Hope that helps! Best of luck on your repairs!
@@3DayWeekend Turbo swap went great! Car is running fantastic! I do have a significant coolant leak tho. I'm curious if the 17mm banjo bolt you install at 16:00 has a washer/rubber on the top under the bolt head and the bottom bolt side. The one I installed came with 2 washers installed on top and I have a feeling that may be where my leak is and just need to move one washer to the front
I replaced mine because the oil feed like was clogged and it ruined the turbo . It's always good to check the line so the new one doesn't get wasted as well
I just replace the exhaust manifold and turbo only. The manifold get cracked n if ur replacing the turbo just do both n use other original parts. Mine works great from aftermarket parts
Oh, that's interesting. I haven't had a cracked manifold yet, but I've definitely had a bad turbo. But yes, if you're right there, it's easier to just do them both! I'm glad you're having good luck with the aftermarket parts. I've heard some do and some don't. I wimped out and went OEM. haha Thanks for watching!
They call that the exhaust clamp, some call it a v-band clamp. It should be available at most auto part stores. Your local Chevy dealer can definitely get you the correct part. Just be sure to specify that it is the clamp between the exhaust manifold and turbo, not an exhaust clamp further downstream. I've been right there with you and broke one as well! Fortunately I found one at my local salvage yard!
How much should this run you if brought in to a shop? I have this issue with my 14 Cruze and generally I do my own work but not being confident will extend this project significantly.
The shop manual says that this job should take roughly 2 hours to complete, but that is not including any issues, such as rusty manifold bolts or seized connections. Figure a good 4 hours of labor to be safe. The rest of the cost will be parts. There are some cheap ones available out there, but I went OEM on this one. Hope that helps!
I’m also having problems with my turbo. Chevy Cruze 2016 Limited. I would step on the gas and it wouldn’t pick up much speed and the engine would get hot and it would make a grinding noise. Took it to the mechanic and he bought a new turbo and fixed the gaskets and still has the same problem. Any advice or tips as to what the problem might be? My mechanic is saying it needs an oil pump, oil filter housing and a turbo oil pressure line
A grinding noise? That's bad news... The turbo oil feed line (or oil pressure line) is a common failure point. It can be come clogged which will starve the turbo for oil. I haven't heard of an oil pump or oil filter housing as a point of failure in these engines, but it is definitely possible. I would start with the oil pressure line and go from there. It's pretty easy to replace.
That oil feed tube is the likely culprit for these turbos failing. The original doesn't have any heat wrap and the oild cooks and builds up over time in that tube and restricts oil flow to the turbo. I doubt the the heat wrap solves the issue so it's not a bad idea to remove that oil tube from time to time and spray it out with some brake cleaner
They are, but those darn walls are so thin, I've never been able to get one off with a torx. Maybe down south they are less rusty, but up here you're lucky if they don't fall apart! Thanks for watching!
I recently had to get my turbo replaced. Just bought car and owner lied about how long ago he changed oil. Engine basically got hot and melted part of turbo plastics and it got sucked into the cat. They finally replaced the turbo,. Cleaned out the cat with all the plastic in there. Pressure test came back fine. Then the mecanic when you test drive it.. drive awesomefor about 10-15 min then started riding really rough again have to wait for master tech to look at it Monday and see if it was calibrated or if computer will say something else is wrong now. I can't win.
Sorry to hear that! I'm not familiar with any plastic in the turbo, so that's really strange to hear. Hopefully they get that all straightened out for you soon!
Yo so I watched your video and changed my turbo out no problem but I was afraid of over tightening the v band and breaking it cause I had to bug a new one. How tight is that supposed to be? I just hand tightened it pretty much till where I felt was good but yours looks a lot tighter
I don't remember off-hand, but I believe it was around 115 in-lbs or so. They aren't as tight as you would think. I have also had more than one break on me. When they are taken off, the back side has to flex which weakens it so when you tighten it down, it'll let loose.
I did not, but you can if it worries you. I'd just hook up the drain tube and funnel some oil into the inlet port first. No big deal. The service manual does not say that it is required in this scenario, but it wouldn't hurt! Great question. Thanks for watching!
do you need to do anything special with the coolent, like i dont know somehow prime it? and will the oil lube/go into the turbo just fine on its own? a vid before this that cut thing sout mentioned trying to lube by like taking out ignition coil and a fuse so it just pushes oil.
You don't need to prime the coolant. Just be sure it is full to the top of the reservoir, and crack the vent on the radiator (engine side of it on the passenger side - white plastic plug with a philips screw head on it) until coolant comes out, then close it back up. I do prime the oil though by disconnecting the ignition coil and cranking it over for a while. I'll crank it for 30 seconds maybe 4 times, then plug it in and let 'er rip!
@@3DayWeekend I held the gas pedal to the floor and turned it over, it seemed to turn once then go into a -fake- start till I let off the gas. Saw someone say that in one of the comments somewhere.. Seemed to work just fine. Though.. if you only undo the ignition coil woudln't fuel still spray in? er.. i just let it run till the coolent lowered turned off added and repeated
No, not really. There is plenty of space in there to work while leaving the radiator in place. It could be removed at that point if desired though. Thanks for watching!
I don't remember seeing a pin... Maybe it is internal to the Turbo. All of the bad turbos that I have seen were bad due to cracking/warping, which would bind the turbine.
How did you manage to start the screw In the bottom of the oil drain fitting, the 8mm? I tried guiding the screw upward with a extension and swivel but lost the screw in a crevice when it fell.
That's what I did - 8mm with an extension and a swivel! I have also lost one in the crevice right next to the oil pan. It was a PAIN to fish it out of there. A magnet, a mirror, a screwdriver, and half an eternity to get it out, but I got it. On the most recent job, I could not get that bolt started for the life of me. I ended up taking the exhaust clamp back off and took off the bolts that hold the catalyst in place so I could get a better angle on it. That helped quite a bit. I can usually get it, but this last car would not cooperate!
i haven't looked yet but what/which coolent is that one just antifreeze? Im pretty confident with my abilities as i work on servers and computers so long as i dont have to pull the engine ahah..
When in doubt, your local dealer or NAPA can get you the right stuff. The Chevy's are picky about coolant, so you'll want to be sure you get the GM compatible stuff. Walmart has some pre-mixed coolant/antifreeze that is compatible with all makes and models so you could use that.
@@3DayWeekend just finished wenesday, took me i kid you not 16 hrs dismantling and redoing it on my trax. Everythinf was so much harder to get to even from the bottom. Spent like 30 mins on the bolt to the collent return tub turning it 1/8th turn each time and flipping wrench as i onlu had about a 2 inch gap reaching from under after taking part of black wheel hub guard odd and coming from the aide aa the alternator or um.. something else big and metal was righr up against it
I would get an inspection camera that would help you to show better angles four people plus it would help you to figure out where those little bolts and hose clamp Are
Yes it would, and believe it or not, it's on my wish list right now! I was going to get it just for me, but it would be nice to use it in tight spots for future videos. Great advice! Thanks!
Yes and no, depends on where you live. In the rust belt, the exhaust bolts rust pretty badly so any attempts to remove them will likely result in snapping them off. I did this job on a southern car and the cat bolts came out pretty easily, leaving me plenty of space to put the turbo oil drain bolts in. However, I struggled to get the cat back into place once I was done. In the end, I'm getting pretty good at lining the drain bolts up with the right extension, so I probably won't remove the cat again.
I replaced mine with an OEM replacement, which I picked up from my local dealership for around $600 with tax if I recall correctly. They had all the parts in stock so I didn't have to wait for one to ship. I would also recommend replacing the exhaust manifold nuts if yours are rusty. As you can see from the video, I had a couple of bad ones. There are some cheaper turbos available online from Amazon and eBay, but I cannot speak to their reliability.
I got it straight from the dealer. There are some cheaper alternatives out there, but I didn't want to risk it and replaced it with OEM. Thanks for watching!
Working on my 2012 LT right now. It’s pre owned with 119k on it. How can I know for sure that the turbocharger has never been changed and needs to be replaced?
I don't know that there would be a way to know "for sure" if it has been replaced. Usually a check engine line with an "underboost" code would suggest that there may be an issue with it. Outside of that, taking it off and doing a thorough inspection would be the only other way.
I didn't check, but I always replace the line for good measure. A plugged oil feed line is typically the root cause of a failing turbo on these engines.
No, typically a faulty turbo will not smoke externally, unless it has sustained catastrophic failure in the housing causing it to crack (which I have never seen on these turbos).
Great video - subscribed! That UK bit got me lol. I've got white smoke coming from the underside of my turbocharger after I use it. Mechanic diagnosed a coolant leak and replaced the water outlet. Less smoke now but not completely gone. Could it be leaking from one of those coolant tubes beneath I wonder (11:50)? Any tips/thoughts would be much appreciated
It could be... unless it's coming from more towards the passenger side. The water pump is over on the passenger side and can leak if bad. I'd pressure test the system and let it sit for a bit. As long as it leaks while cold or hot, it should leave a puddle which you can trace to the source.
I just did mine last night finally. It took forever. My was just leaking coolant from those lines. If GM had put a brake line type fitting, you wouldn't need to remove the turbo. Just the skirting & the cat. It uses a special tool for removal. Fuel line quick connect tools don't work. When my turbo was out I just bent one of those lines up a little & removed them. I replaced both of them. You will need new quick connects anyways. Also all seals & new brass manifold nuts. Those extra add up in a hurry. The nut set is $30 alone Hope that helps
I'm having trouble after car is hot it's bucking then straightens out not sure what it is new spark plugs tired of soaking lots of money into this car replaced wheel bearing and oil cooler line, part behind exhaust manifold , value cover gasket , front pads and rotors the list goes on good luck on this car. Any information would be appreciated thanks
@@dancurrier6421 Is there any codes set or is the check engine light on? Usually bucking like that is a ignition problem like a spark plug or bad coil. Did you use AC Delco plugs? Those GM cars seem to like those plugs the best for some reason.
Did anybody's vehicle make crazy noise before or during the turbo failure? My son's Chevy Cruze lost power and made noise like a weird rattling sheet metal sound. I do have the p0299 code and a misfire code. I just want to make sure before I spend $1,000 on parts and several hours of frustration changing it out. Please let me know what noise does y'all's made before you replaced it. Thank you very much!
Oh wow! I haven't heard that sound! This one didn't make any noise when it actually failed. It just lost power and threw the code. Hopefully you're able to get it up and running again!
@@3DayWeekend working on it this weekend. There's a lot of oil on the front side of the engine where the crankshaft pulley and all that is. I didn't get an overpressure code but my boost sensor could be bad. I've got everything loose except that one hidden bolt on the oil return.
Always change those coolant lines, cheap insurance and replace the gaskets in the oil filter and cooler assembly winds up making the repair expensive but these 1.4's suck.
Oh, I agree, these 1.4's are terrible. Easy to work on, but constant issues. Heads, turbos, overheating, rings, coolant housing, water pumps... lots of common failures. I'm about tired of working on Cruzes! Thanks for watching!
No, not really. The head is before the turbo so the exhaust is pushing everything away from it. If the turbo did have some sort of internal failure, it would have to be leaking coolant into the intake side, through the charge pipes and intercooler, and back into the intake and combustion chambers. That would be a long journey!
I just need to remove the head, do you think I can get it out just by removing the exhaust bolts and oil line that connect to the head and just move it back? Or maybe also the bolts underneath for more slack?
It's going to be tight... The exhaust studs are pretty long so the turbo needs to move back pretty far to get clear. You might be able to get away with loosening the two catalyst mounting bolts and disconnecting the oil and coolant lines, but that's pretty much everything anyway so at that point you could pull the turbo.
No link. I got this one from my local Chevy dealer. I definitely paid a shiny penny for it, but I didn't want to get a cheaper one and have it fail later on.
Go to your local dealership and get part numbers, I am going thru this right now on a 2013 Cruze, I ordered the turbo from rock auto. No core charge $470 for the turbo assembly, you get the v-band clamp, new manifold gasket, and new exhaust manifold nuts. Dealership items I purchased were the oil supply tube. Both coolant lines and oil drain tube.
It very well could be, but I wouldn't 100% guarantee it. It is possible to have a bad sensor causing it, but since the turbo is a common failure on these engines, it is highly likely.
Your video has informed me so much and I decided to do this job myself! Next weekend I will get all the parts as well as oil cooler gaskets since it is also leaking from there. I was wondering how long did this take you to remove them to put it back? I know you did it two separate days. In your opinion what was the hardest part of the job? Thank you for your video once again!
Good luck to you! I hope it all goes smoothly! It took me a couple evenings to take it off and a few hours to get it back on there. I've had to do it so many times on other cars that now I can do the whole job in under 2 hours. The hardest part is the rear 8mm drain tube bolt under the turbo. The 17mm banjo bolt for the coolant that goes into the block is a close 2nd. It's harder to take those off than it is to put them on for sure!
@@3DayWeekend Hello! I actually was able to do this funny enough on a 3Day Weekend. The hardest part for me definitely was putting on that 17 mm coolant line. I found out that if you get under the car you can see the bolt and the plug and you can alight it easier and tighten it from the front. Wow that’s fast for this job I think combined it took me around 6 hours as I wanted to take it nice and easy but she is all good🙌🏼
Interesting that you have a lift, but not a bolt/nut extraction set😊😊 The electrical connector, instead of removing metal clip, just push it in to release connector. Was a good video though.
You know... I just never really have good luck with extraction sets. Maybe I should give them a shot before I jump right into shaving the part down and grabbing it with pliers! haha And yes, I realized that with the connector later on. I assumed they were an older type that MOPAR used to use but realized they were push-to-release when I was putting them back on. Thanks for watching and for keeping me honest!
I bought mine directly from my local Chevy dealer. I believe at the time it was roughly $700. There are cheaper options out there, but I can't speak to their longevity.
Do you know that old saying “fake it till you make it”. I believe that it applies extremely well with this video. maybe next time do the job a couple of times so when you’re talking about it you sound like you know what you’re talking about. Having that confidence of knowledge and information is very commanding and it makes people susceptible to not watching another video, but referencing yours again as they’re doing the actual job. I’m not disrespecting your video. Honestly I’d give it a 6.5 out of 10 because there was a lot of rookie mistakes but all in all it was a pretty good informative video. Please take what I said constructively my intentions aren’t evil. Pro tip; Don’t forget to fill up that oil reservoir where you’re placing your oil Filler hose onto before starting it. It’s a really bad idea to run that turbo dry with no oil in it waiting for the pump to put oil in there. Seriously though, turbos LOVE oil.. one more thing you don’t have to drain all the coolant. if you pull off at hose you’re gonna lose less than a half a quart. That will save you some time and money. I know that coolant ain’t cheap.
Thanks for sharing. This was my first time pulling the turbo off one of these engines, so I was not confident at all! Since this video that was made a couple of years ago, I've pulled countless turbos so if I were to do another video, it would be much more streamlined, and I have learned some "best practices" along the way. Believe it or not, a good number of people prefer a video format where it feels like "we're in this together as we figure it out", according to the video analytics. I experiment with all kinds of approaches in my videos - direct and to the point, and completely winging it. Some do better than others and I can adjust. I appreciate your feedback. I always take it under consideration for future releases. For your two remarks - yes, I do fill the turbo with oil once I connect the drain tube. That is definitely something that everyone should do. Alternatively, I'll disconnect the coil pack and crank it for a bit to get the oil flowing, especially after doing a head gasket or something major. For the coolant - I have since found that there is a drain plug in the radiator with a nipple for attaching a hose. When doing this job now, I'll attach a hose to that and run it into a clean jug so I can put it right back in when I'm done. No waste at all, and no need for more coolant! All good suggestions, and together we can all improve. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment on the video. Have a good one!
on the my new pipe for the oil cooler line was not A T_45 it was a 3/8 allen wrench bolt now and I didn't get it from the dealership they wanted more then where I get my parts
Interesting.... I've done a few and they were all T-45. Maybe they used something different in early/late years. Good tip! And yes, the dealership is going to be the most expensive for sure. I just didn't want to take a chance on an aftermarket part, especially since this isn't my car!
This was done first. It was throwing codes for a bad turbo so naturally I just replaced it. After the new turbo was installed and it was running great again, that's when I noticed the white smoke out the tailpipe, which is why the original turbo had failed. Yeah, live and learn! This Cruze definitely tried my patience, but I got her going again!
I have not pre-lubed any of these turbos and they have been fine. However, the oil charge line connection is the large torx banjo bolt right on the top. You could pour some oil down through there if you wanted.
You'll know if it does! Typically it will start with power surges, then the check engine light for low boost. It's not a bad job, as long as the exhaust manifold bolts aren't rusted too bad. Thanks for watching!
No, I don't believe so. Unfortunately I would suspect rings / pistons / block. Your first test should be a compression check then go from there. Hopefully it's not too serious!
Poor power, poor fuel economy. Worst case scenario your engine will run rich because it's not getting as much as as it should, and the catalytic converter could clog up. If that happens, it'll double your repair bill. I know they are pricey, but I would highly recommend getting it done as soon as possible!
Oh really.... They must have changed that recently. My replacement came with a T45 but that was a while ago. Are they still torx? Is it a step bigger or a step smaller?
I hate that line. I've gotten pretty good at it though. My 6" extension fits in there perfectly. If you hold the light just right, you can see it. Still. Not my favorite. It's harder to put it back in than it is to take it out!
It is possible to delete a turbo from a car, but it would require having someone tune the computer or quite possibly replacing the computer with an aftermarket one (depending on the limitations of the software in the computer itself), then have that computer tuned. Either of those options would be more expensive and time consuming than replacing the turbo. If you have a faulty turbo, the only way to fix it properly and ensure the engine operates correctly is to replace the turbo.
1 1:59 remove air cleaner hose 7mm/ remove exhaust heat shield
2 2:29 exhaust band clamp 13mm
3 3:00 vacuum line clip next to throttle body and elec connector clip
4 3:12 charge pipe hose that connects to bottom of turbo 7mm
5 3:36 oil feed supply tube inverse torx or 8mm the other side requires regular torx T-45 place bag over hole
6 4:13 coolant line clamp and bracket bolt
7 5:12 manifold bolts (PB blaster)
8 8:20 Remove skid plate torx 15 screws and drain coolant (use hose) remove coolant cap
9 9:30Turbo drain tube 8mm long extension /swivel - can get to from under car
10 10:50 remove Turbo vacuum line and elec plug (metal clip 11:21)
11 11:29 remove bracket above left side exhaust manifold
12 11:44 Disconnect Turbo oil hose from block 17mm
14:31 mount coolant lines and bracket(10mm) on new turbo
Place new Exhaust manifold gasket
Drop Turbo in
15:31 Tighten oil hose medium extension 17 mm
16:23 Turbo drain tube (see video swivel set-up) 6point 8mm
Exhaust manifold bolts don’t forget heat shield bracket 18:15 (Torque specs?)
18:43 Exhaust clamp band
19:23 Place bracket bolt first-then Oil feed tube 18:53 (Banjo bolt goes on turbo side)
20:00 Heat shield studs
20:16 engine mounts
20:34 Turbo Vacuum line/hose
21:00 Air cleaner hose
21:09 Exhaust heat shield
21:46 Skid plate
22:34 Electric connector clip
Close Radiator stop cock- fill with coolant- Burp system
Oil change
Awesome step-by-step writeup!
Damn
Dude has a two post in his garage, but drives a Chevy Cruze. You, my friend, are truly an enigma wrapped in a riddle behind a mystery.
Hahaha yes, I'm something else alright. lol The Cruzes shown in these videos weren't mine. I was just the lucky guy working on them! Thank you for watching!
My Cruze has been one of the most reliable vehicles I've ever owned. Including imports. In fact, every GM product has been.
You want bad? Try owning a frickin Subaru.
Head gaskets. The wheels will fall off if you don't carry a 4 way at all times. Etc. This perception of "reliability" is garbage.
@CNCMatrix love to assign an issue that was corrected 25 years ago to everything a manufacturer makes in perpetuity. 😄
That said I'm glad that you're having a good experience with your road going Bic lighter. 😺
@@courier11sec Yeah right, because they still don't have problems and make mistakes, only GM does. Meanwhile my girlfriends '011 Impreza had the same exact issues as my '03 outback did, but you keep on with your illusory truth while I keep driving my "road going bic lighter" that gets 48 mpg and (knock on wood) haven't had to replace not even a simple lightbulb on in almost 100k miles.
@@CNCMatrixI have a 2011 Chevy Cruze. Bought it at 145xxx miles and it’s at 220xxx now. Car still running but I got the code for the cat so since I have extra money I’m replacing the turbo, cat, turbo oil return feed lines. This car has probably been the most reliable car I ever owned.
So I had just got done doing this project on a 2013 Cruze, I purchased the turbo assembly from rock auto. It comes with a new exhaust clamp, new manifold nuts, new manifold gasket, and the round exhaust gasket. I purchased from our local Chevy dealership, new coolant hoses, that attach to the turbo on the back side, oil drain tube, and the little oil line with the Torx screw. Get all those lines new as you don’t want to have to go back in after a month or 2 to replace a line that you did not change. My experience with the round v band clamp that came with the dorman kit from rock auto seemed to be a one time use clamp after the bolt got threaded through the nut it rounded the threads where you couldn’t back the bolt back out. Had to cut the bolt with a die grinder and repurchased another clamp from the dealership. Also I would recommend installing the oil drain line with the 2 bolts to the turbo before installing the assembly, it is a lot easier to pry or push the oil tube into the pan than to install the bolts afterward. Side note vehicle had 162000 miles on it, and did not have any issue’s with the assembly alignment. Also before installing the oil tube with the torx head fill that cavity with some oil to prevent damage to the turbo on initial start.
Good pointers. Thanks, Terry!
Glad i read this, it answered a question about the oiling on the turbo. and.. that makes so much sense about putting the tube on the turbo
is the “oil drain line with the 2 bolts” you’re referencing, the ones he had to make his ratchet contraption to put in on the bottom? i was trying to figure out how i was gonna get that done with no lift and just jack stands
First off, thank you for this video and your head gasket replacement video. Helped me save my car. But one thing I did discover during the installation process, you can save yourself a lot of drama with the oil return line if you just bolt it into the turbo first, then either have an assistant hold the turbo while you guide the line into the hole, or if you don't have an assistant, (which I didn't) tack up the turbo to the bracket hole above the exhaust, guide the return line into the hole, then drop the turbo into place and then finish securing the line.
Excellent pointer! I hate reconnecting that darn drain tube! Thanks for watching and for your tip!
Great video, of course I'm dealing with same codes after I installed a like new turbo and made sure all the lines aren't leaking...my code P2999 did not go away, ...so my concerns are I also replaced a blown head gasket (should've got it resurfaced but I checked with straight edge...got turbo from someone that tried to do this job and I guess failed...I got it for Discount nevertheless it was uninstalled new. Is there something I'm missing?, The car has a coolant issue as well I've changed all sensors but idk It did over heat 1st test drive, ..I can only think a vacuum leak maybe on turbo line or crossed vacuum lines?any help thanks
@Lake Overview
Hi, I don't know if you meant to ask me or the creator of the video, but I'll offer my opinion, just don't take it as gospel.
With the combination of symptoms you're mentioning, it sounds like you may want to recheck that head gasket job.
But if that turns out to be fine, the only thing I could think of for the turbo would be to ask if you reused the same oil lines with the new turbo, especially the oil feed line on top. I made the fatal mistake of reusing my old one (apparently it was clogged) on my new turbo and let's just say I'm on my third turbo now.
For the cooling system overheating, did you go through the correct process of bleeding the radiator and topping off the coolant while the car is running with the heat on? Did you replace the thermostat and water pump when you replaced the head gasket? Not sure how necessary it is, but it never hurts.
My head gasket blew because I went wayyy too long in between oil changes. I couldn't tell because the oil never leaked, but it was gulping coolant and overheating. I should have known then because I could never find a leak comparable to the amount of coolant I was going through. Then my turbo went out because of what I'm assuming was a sludge clogged oil feed line. I didn't know that at the time and I reused it, like I mentioned earlier, and blew the second turbo too. The day I pulled my dipstick and my oil was creamed colored, I finally had to accept that my head gasket was blown and I parked it until I could replace it. (Which was about 3 levels above my pay grade.)
So, from my personal experience, I'd say double check that new head gasket or have it checked. If it's not that, try the other stuff I mentioned. That's about the range of my expertise.
@@robertmiller9491 hi and thanks for your feedback I appreciate any, yes I did use old lines but at first I did blow lines out, then videos are saying to replace so I did,rather my wife did...I also did do the coolant procedure correctly , it wasn't until I started to listen to Spanish mechanics on here is were I found gold, one mechanic had a scanner hooked up and found lots of information regarding this issue of mine and well the turbo system, it was on a newer Cruze but the tech does metion all years/and possible items being change or diagnosed in order to fix issues with turbo system...I hope other find it helpful it's kinda long video but trust you'll screenshot like crazy at the info seen
Oh so I what I found was my Cruze needed to be reprogrammed..to make it short I'll also post timestamp when I found my next step.
ruclips.net/video/-AfpujB9olo/видео.html
Time stamp is 10:06 step number 8/9/10
Thumbs up if it helps would be cool thing to do
I'm pretty good at working on cars with no prior knowledge except RUclips videos. Changed just about everything except a turbo, internal engine issues, & transmission. Doing my head gasket on my 2015 Cruze now & thankfully having the right tools & 3 day weekend allows me to do it quickly & efficiently. Thanks for all the time & dedication, it's highly appreciated! I'll update tonight or tomorrow when I get it finished!
How'd it go?
@@toxictex6603 Sadly no auto place in my town had the camshaft lock pins so I just ordered them on Amazon & they'll be here Friday. Already have everything else off, so I just have to lock it to TDC, undo the timing chain bolts, undo the head bolts then swap & repeat in reverse. If you're looking at doing this, just know you'll have to pay $51.99 for new head bolts when you get the gasket.
@@toxictex6603 I received my lock pins today, so I'll be updating later on tonight! Hopefully yours goes well too!
You're very welcome. Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
@@madebycarrera7585Annnd?!? What happened?! Are you still alive?
You sir, are God sent. Great video and although I never swapped a turbo out I've done some mechanical work. Your video will go a long way in aiding me and, will save my wife a ton of money by not paying the dealership to do it. Thanks again man and have an awesome day!
Happy to help. Thanks for watching!
They just recalled them if you're under 150,000K
@@JJ-fd5pwis the recall specifically for turbo? I've got a little chatter/rattle that just developed in mine a day or so ago. Sitting at right around 69k miles
You know you’re in deep when you start whispering while working 😂 attempting this next weekend by myself
Sometimes it helps to talk to it - especially those rusted on manifold bolts! Best of luck to you on this job. I hope it all goes smoothly for you. Thanks for watching!
*update in the comments* READ! Auto zone has a Dorman turbo with lifetime warranty for about 620 dollars. It comes with all gaskets and hardware, best bet imo. Dealership told me not to reuse the coolant and oil lines because they leak if you reuse them almost every time. So I ordered all new ones. About $150 for all 4. This is the best video I've seen for this job. Thanks.
That's not a terrible price. Good to know! Thanks for watching!
So let's say you have a recall on the turbo because of wastage problems from the production line. They put the new turbo in for free. Per the recall... and then charge you $188 for the hoses. Would you agree with that or not?
@@derekdidier7164 Did you receive an answer on your question? I am wanting to know the answer to your question too.
I'm adding this update for the people thinking buying a Dorman turbo. It's been only 7000 miles and about 8 months and my dorman turbo has failed. I believe it is the wastegate sticking that's causing the po299 code. It feels shot. I'm tearing it out now. Yes it has a lifetime warranty but it needs replacement every 7000 miles is it really worth it? I hate this Chevy cruze! It's by far the worst car I've ever owned! It breaks constantly. My 05 cobalt runs like a top compared to my Cruze. I love that cobalt.
What model number dorman turbo from AutoZone did you buy?
I have done a lot of DIY disassemble and reassemble videos when it comes to major parts and components the way you explained it is awesome the way you try and show the
Thanks! I try my best!
Great video I love my Chevy Cruze 138.408 miles strong got the heart of a V8 but the soul of a cub perfect work car
Glad you're enjoying it! They do have their problems, but at least they are relatively easy to work on.
Loved your video and it saved me from financial ruin. Keep up the good work but i did have one question......What size hose did you use when connecting to the coolant drain?
I *believe* it was 3/8's hose. It doesn't matter if it is a perfect fit, just needs to go over the nipple a little bit to guide the coolant. Thanks for watching, and I'm glad it helped!
@@3DayWeekend Thanks again brother. Watched a ton of videos before tackling this and yours was my saving grace.
there's no check engine light on my car replaced spark plugs with AC delco
I was going to ask the same. Thanks
I think i would have been able to do this without the video but it would have taken me at least 4 times longer. So thank you very much. Keep up the good work.
Glad I could save you some time! Thanks for watching!
This video is incredible, thanks to this video I can know which part I have to change to my encore 2015. But here is my question for how long can I keep running my car with this code P0299?
Of course, I would officially recommend not driving it at all with a check engine light on. It is possible that you will overfuel the engine due to the lack of air which could cause damage to your catalytic converter. However... this car had that light on for a couple months and it was fine (but it wasn't driven every day during that time). Thank you for watching and for your compliments!
Hello I just bought a 2014 Chevy Cruze Lt with turbo engine. It has 86 thousand miles. Needed a cheap car for my daughter to go to work. But now I'm wondering if I should have bought it. My question is what is mileage on Cruze ur changing turbo? Thanks for the video
I don't remember for sure, but I think it was around 70k. Be sure to check the coolant level frequently, as these cars are prone to leaking in various locations. The head gasket is the weak points of this engine. One overheat and you'll be looking at a head gasket job. They are good little cars, but the engine could have been better.
Great video, I am in the middle of doing this swap on my 2012 sonic. Very helpful. One question: are you supposed to pre oil the turbo before starting the engine? A heavy duty mechanic friend of mine mentioned that…
I didn't, and it was fine. However, the politically correct answer would be to ALWAYS pre-oil your turbo! You can hook up the oil drain line, get a funnel, and pour some oil down into the turbo that way just for peace of mind. In my opinion (and I'm sure people will tell me how wrong I am), the turbo and engine are small, it *should* have some sort of lubrication in there from the factory, you aren't going to cold-rev the engine, and it will only take a few seconds for oil to reach the turbo, so I wouldn't worry about it. Definitely doesn't hurt through.
How's that for a non-committal answer? Lol Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Amazing video it really helped a lot! Thank you for taking the time! one thing the hose he showed at 9:36 with the 2 screws and one is an impossible screw to get to if you follow it down about 6 inches it isnt bolted in its held on by a clip if you take the clip off itll come out when you pull the manifold. But, thank you for the whole video it helped a ton!
Good pointer! Since I've done this video I've had to do a few more and was able to pull the tube out on one car, but here in the rust belt of upstate NY the rest have been rusted in so they wouldn't pull out. Impossible bolts it is! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!
wish I could this... looks like I'm paying... how much would this cost to do approx? like parts and labour?
I've heard people say $1500, but that was a dealership with OEM parts.
Those 2 underneath bolts were fun, also i had a stud come out with one of the 8 manifold bolts, also fun. Great video, appreciate it. Mine was cracked pretty good inside the turbo.
Gotta love those rusty manifold bolts! I've had a few come out with the studs and I was able to just put them right back in. Road salt is really hard on cars! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!
I also had 2 manifold bolts come out. How do I reinstall the original bolts without stripping the block threads?
Great video
I forgot to put on that metal manifold spacer bracket . You think I can get it in without removing the turbo again ?
Yes, if you remove all the manifold bolts you can pull it forward slightly slide it through. It's a tight fit, but it will go. I've forgotten before as well!
Just curious, is that a .25” line you’re using to drain the coolant?
Attempting this repair this weekend on my Sonic, but that drain is genius! Any info would be awesome. Thanks Mate 🍻
Yes, inner diameter was .25. I believe the outer diameter was 3/8. It doesn't have to be perfect. A little heat on the hose will loosen it up if it's a little too tight. A little too big is fine too. There won't be any pressure on the hose - it just needs to transport the coolant down into your container. Hope that helps! Best of luck on your repairs!
@@3DayWeekend Turbo swap went great! Car is running fantastic! I do have a significant coolant leak tho. I'm curious if the 17mm banjo bolt you install at 16:00 has a washer/rubber on the top under the bolt head and the bottom bolt side. The one I installed came with 2 washers installed on top and I have a feeling that may be where my leak is and just need to move one washer to the front
I replaced mine because the oil feed like was clogged and it ruined the turbo . It's always good to check the line so the new one doesn't get wasted as well
Agreed. That is a common failure point, especially if the prior owner(s) weren't good about regular oil changes.
I just replace the exhaust manifold and turbo only. The manifold get cracked n if ur replacing the turbo just do both n use other original parts. Mine works great from aftermarket parts
Oh, that's interesting. I haven't had a cracked manifold yet, but I've definitely had a bad turbo. But yes, if you're right there, it's easier to just do them both! I'm glad you're having good luck with the aftermarket parts. I've heard some do and some don't. I wimped out and went OEM. haha Thanks for watching!
At 3:28 what is that clamp called n where can i get a new one from mines broke 😭
They call that the exhaust clamp, some call it a v-band clamp. It should be available at most auto part stores. Your local Chevy dealer can definitely get you the correct part. Just be sure to specify that it is the clamp between the exhaust manifold and turbo, not an exhaust clamp further downstream.
I've been right there with you and broke one as well! Fortunately I found one at my local salvage yard!
Glad this popped up for me as I'll be doing this pretty soon. Thanks for the guide, will make the job much faster!
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
How much should this run you if brought in to a shop? I have this issue with my 14 Cruze and generally I do my own work but not being confident will extend this project significantly.
The shop manual says that this job should take roughly 2 hours to complete, but that is not including any issues, such as rusty manifold bolts or seized connections. Figure a good 4 hours of labor to be safe. The rest of the cost will be parts. There are some cheap ones available out there, but I went OEM on this one. Hope that helps!
I’m also having problems with my turbo. Chevy Cruze 2016 Limited. I would step on the gas and it wouldn’t pick up much speed and the engine would get hot and it would make a grinding noise. Took it to the mechanic and he bought a new turbo and fixed the gaskets and still has the same problem. Any advice or tips as to what the problem might be? My mechanic is saying it needs an oil pump, oil filter housing and a turbo oil pressure line
A grinding noise? That's bad news... The turbo oil feed line (or oil pressure line) is a common failure point. It can be come clogged which will starve the turbo for oil. I haven't heard of an oil pump or oil filter housing as a point of failure in these engines, but it is definitely possible. I would start with the oil pressure line and go from there. It's pretty easy to replace.
The oil cooler should be replaced or have it’s gaskets replaced too. It is underneath the turbo and known for leaking oil on the cat.
Good pointer. I haven't had that issue yet, but it's only a matter of time on these engines... they love to leak!
Awesome video. Love that you showed all the steps.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
That oil feed tube is the likely culprit for these turbos failing. The original doesn't have any heat wrap and the oild cooks and builds up over time in that tube and restricts oil flow to the turbo. I doubt the the heat wrap solves the issue so it's not a bad idea to remove that oil tube from time to time and spray it out with some brake cleaner
Agreed. Definitely a good tip as a preventative measure, and they aren't that difficult to remove.
I had the same frozen manifold nut. After getting it off, I see they are T45 on the inside and 10mm on the outside.
They are, but those darn walls are so thin, I've never been able to get one off with a torx. Maybe down south they are less rusty, but up here you're lucky if they don't fall apart! Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend heads up you put 10 mm long socket on the nut an run long torx through the socket this keeps from damaging the nut
I recently had to get my turbo replaced. Just bought car and owner lied about how long ago he changed oil. Engine basically got hot and melted part of turbo plastics and it got sucked into the cat. They finally replaced the turbo,. Cleaned out the cat with all the plastic in there. Pressure test came back fine. Then the mecanic when you test drive it.. drive awesomefor about 10-15 min then started riding really rough again have to wait for master tech to look at it Monday and see if it was calibrated or if computer will say something else is wrong now. I can't win.
Sorry to hear that! I'm not familiar with any plastic in the turbo, so that's really strange to hear. Hopefully they get that all straightened out for you soon!
Yo so I watched your video and changed my turbo out no problem but I was afraid of over tightening the v band and breaking it cause I had to bug a new one. How tight is that supposed to be? I just hand tightened it pretty much till where I felt was good but yours looks a lot tighter
I don't remember off-hand, but I believe it was around 115 in-lbs or so. They aren't as tight as you would think. I have also had more than one break on me. When they are taken off, the back side has to flex which weakens it so when you tighten it down, it'll let loose.
Did You Put Any Oil In The Turbo Before Starting It?
I did not, but you can if it worries you. I'd just hook up the drain tube and funnel some oil into the inlet port first. No big deal. The service manual does not say that it is required in this scenario, but it wouldn't hurt! Great question. Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekendwhere u get the turbo from
Heat shield holds a lot of unnecessary heat on the turbo
And they are tiny little things. Not a lot of surface area to dissipate the heat...
do you need to do anything special with the coolent, like i dont know somehow prime it? and will the oil lube/go into the turbo just fine on its own? a vid before this that cut thing sout mentioned trying to lube by like taking out ignition coil and a fuse so it just pushes oil.
You don't need to prime the coolant. Just be sure it is full to the top of the reservoir, and crack the vent on the radiator (engine side of it on the passenger side - white plastic plug with a philips screw head on it) until coolant comes out, then close it back up. I do prime the oil though by disconnecting the ignition coil and cranking it over for a while. I'll crank it for 30 seconds maybe 4 times, then plug it in and let 'er rip!
@@3DayWeekend I held the gas pedal to the floor and turned it over, it seemed to turn once then go into a -fake- start till I let off the gas. Saw someone say that in one of the comments somewhere.. Seemed to work just fine. Though.. if you only undo the ignition coil woudln't fuel still spray in?
er.. i just let it run till the coolent lowered turned off added and repeated
Would it been easier if you removed that radiator since you need to drain the system anyway?
No, not really. There is plenty of space in there to work while leaving the radiator in place. It could be removed at that point if desired though. Thanks for watching!
I hear some kind of a pin goes bad in that turbo. If you replace the turbo do you get another bad pin or does it a good pin this time
I don't remember seeing a pin... Maybe it is internal to the Turbo. All of the bad turbos that I have seen were bad due to cracking/warping, which would bind the turbine.
@@3DayWeekend oh okay. I wish I could tell you which video or videos I saw that in.
I have a 2014 Cruze that needs the turbo replaced what kind should I get?
OEM. I purchased the one in this video from my local Chevy dealer.
How did you manage to start the screw In the bottom of the oil drain fitting, the 8mm? I tried guiding the screw upward with a extension and swivel but lost the screw in a crevice when it fell.
That's what I did - 8mm with an extension and a swivel! I have also lost one in the crevice right next to the oil pan. It was a PAIN to fish it out of there. A magnet, a mirror, a screwdriver, and half an eternity to get it out, but I got it.
On the most recent job, I could not get that bolt started for the life of me. I ended up taking the exhaust clamp back off and took off the bolts that hold the catalyst in place so I could get a better angle on it. That helped quite a bit. I can usually get it, but this last car would not cooperate!
i haven't looked yet but what/which coolent is that one just antifreeze?
Im pretty confident with my abilities as i work on servers and computers so long as i dont have to pull the engine ahah..
When in doubt, your local dealer or NAPA can get you the right stuff. The Chevy's are picky about coolant, so you'll want to be sure you get the GM compatible stuff. Walmart has some pre-mixed coolant/antifreeze that is compatible with all makes and models so you could use that.
@@3DayWeekend just finished wenesday, took me i kid you not 16 hrs dismantling and redoing it on my trax. Everythinf was so much harder to get to even from the bottom. Spent like 30 mins on the bolt to the collent return tub turning it 1/8th turn each time and flipping wrench as i onlu had about a 2 inch gap reaching from under after taking part of black wheel hub guard odd and coming from the aide aa the alternator or um.. something else big and metal was righr up against it
I would get an inspection camera that would help you to show better angles four people plus it would help you to figure out where those little bolts and hose clamp Are
Yes it would, and believe it or not, it's on my wish list right now! I was going to get it just for me, but it would be nice to use it in tight spots for future videos. Great advice! Thanks!
Wouldn’t it be easier to remove the cat to access those two oil return bolts on the bottom??
Yes and no, depends on where you live. In the rust belt, the exhaust bolts rust pretty badly so any attempts to remove them will likely result in snapping them off. I did this job on a southern car and the cat bolts came out pretty easily, leaving me plenty of space to put the turbo oil drain bolts in. However, I struggled to get the cat back into place once I was done. In the end, I'm getting pretty good at lining the drain bolts up with the right extension, so I probably won't remove the cat again.
Turbo had a crack on the exaust side also?
Yes it did. The turbo was a total loss. I had to replace the entire thing.
Where is the best place to order a turbo charger from and how much it costs?
I replaced mine with an OEM replacement, which I picked up from my local dealership for around $600 with tax if I recall correctly. They had all the parts in stock so I didn't have to wait for one to ship. I would also recommend replacing the exhaust manifold nuts if yours are rusty. As you can see from the video, I had a couple of bad ones. There are some cheaper turbos available online from Amazon and eBay, but I cannot speak to their reliability.
I hope I don't have to go through this but thank you for this informative video
I hope you don't either! Thanks for watching!
I ordered mine off rock auto same with the copper nuts and bushings
Excellent! I'm sure it was cheaper than the dealership. Thanks for watching!
Where did you get the turbo from? Mine needs it bad. Great job btw!!!
I got it straight from the dealer. There are some cheaper alternatives out there, but I didn't want to risk it and replaced it with OEM. Thanks for watching!
Working on my 2012 LT right now. It’s pre owned with 119k on it. How can I know for sure that the turbocharger has never been changed and needs to be replaced?
I don't know that there would be a way to know "for sure" if it has been replaced. Usually a check engine line with an "underboost" code would suggest that there may be an issue with it. Outside of that, taking it off and doing a thorough inspection would be the only other way.
Do you know if this is the same as the 2016 Gen 2 model?
Sorry just did a lil bit of looking and its not the same.
Ok. Thanks for posting the answer, as it may help someone else!
Replaced my turbo and it smokes a bit could this just be from the install and oils burning off?
Any oil that got on it should cook off after a good drive. If it's still smoking after driving it for a few days, you probably have a leak somewhere.
@@3DayWeekend youre right it was a customers car actually gave it a good 2 day drive and it stopped smoking thanks alot man
Was the old oil feed line plugged or restricted??
I didn't check, but I always replace the line for good measure. A plugged oil feed line is typically the root cause of a failing turbo on these engines.
Does the front start getting Smokey when the turbo has gone bad?
No, typically a faulty turbo will not smoke externally, unless it has sustained catastrophic failure in the housing causing it to crack (which I have never seen on these turbos).
Great video - subscribed! That UK bit got me lol.
I've got white smoke coming from the underside of my turbocharger after I use it. Mechanic diagnosed a coolant leak and replaced the water outlet. Less smoke now but not completely gone. Could it be leaking from one of those coolant tubes beneath I wonder (11:50)? Any tips/thoughts would be much appreciated
It could be... unless it's coming from more towards the passenger side. The water pump is over on the passenger side and can leak if bad. I'd pressure test the system and let it sit for a bit. As long as it leaks while cold or hot, it should leave a puddle which you can trace to the source.
I just did mine last night finally. It took forever. My was just leaking coolant from those lines. If GM had put a brake line type fitting, you wouldn't need to remove the turbo. Just the skirting & the cat. It uses a special tool for removal. Fuel line quick connect tools don't work. When my turbo was out I just bent one of those lines up a little & removed them. I replaced both of them. You will need new quick connects anyways. Also all seals & new brass manifold nuts. Those extra add up in a hurry. The nut set is $30 alone Hope that helps
I'm having trouble after car is hot it's bucking then straightens out not sure what it is new spark plugs tired of soaking lots of money into this car replaced wheel bearing and oil cooler line, part behind exhaust manifold , value cover gasket , front pads and rotors the list goes on good luck on this car. Any information would be appreciated thanks
@@dancurrier6421 Is there any codes set or is the check engine light on? Usually bucking like that is a ignition problem like a spark plug or bad coil. Did you use AC Delco plugs? Those GM cars seem to like those plugs the best for some reason.
@@pontiacsrule8761 no check engine light on new AC delco spark plugs
I wish I could have wore flip flops when I was turning wrenches LOL
My garage, my rules! haha
Did anybody's vehicle make crazy noise before or during the turbo failure? My son's Chevy Cruze lost power and made noise like a weird rattling sheet metal sound. I do have the p0299 code and a misfire code. I just want to make sure before I spend $1,000 on parts and several hours of frustration changing it out.
Please let me know what noise does y'all's made before you replaced it. Thank you very much!
Oh wow! I haven't heard that sound! This one didn't make any noise when it actually failed. It just lost power and threw the code. Hopefully you're able to get it up and running again!
@@3DayWeekend working on it this weekend. There's a lot of oil on the front side of the engine where the crankshaft pulley and all that is. I didn't get an overpressure code but my boost sensor could be bad.
I've got everything loose except that one hidden bolt on the oil return.
Always change those coolant lines, cheap insurance and replace the gaskets in the oil filter and cooler assembly winds up making the repair expensive but these 1.4's suck.
Oh, I agree, these 1.4's are terrible. Easy to work on, but constant issues. Heads, turbos, overheating, rings, coolant housing, water pumps... lots of common failures. I'm about tired of working on Cruzes! Thanks for watching!
in the turbo runs water and oil. is posible can get mixed water in to heads?
No, not really. The head is before the turbo so the exhaust is pushing everything away from it. If the turbo did have some sort of internal failure, it would have to be leaking coolant into the intake side, through the charge pipes and intercooler, and back into the intake and combustion chambers. That would be a long journey!
Okay. But importantly, did it work after you replaced it?
It sure did! Runs like a champ!
What size was the hose you used to drain the coolant?
I believe it was a quarter inch inside diameter, but it was VERY tight. 3/8 might fit a little easier.
I just need to remove the head, do you think I can get it out just by removing the exhaust bolts and oil line that connect to the head and just move it back? Or maybe also the bolts underneath for more slack?
It's going to be tight... The exhaust studs are pretty long so the turbo needs to move back pretty far to get clear. You might be able to get away with loosening the two catalyst mounting bolts and disconnecting the oil and coolant lines, but that's pretty much everything anyway so at that point you could pull the turbo.
Can you tel me the link you got this turbo?? Please and thank you.
No link. I got this one from my local Chevy dealer. I definitely paid a shiny penny for it, but I didn't want to get a cheaper one and have it fail later on.
What is the name of that coolant line with the 17mm head? I can't find it anywhere!
Go to your local dealership and get part numbers, I am going thru this right now on a 2013 Cruze, I ordered the turbo from rock auto. No core charge $470 for the turbo assembly, you get the v-band clamp, new manifold gasket, and new exhaust manifold nuts. Dealership items I purchased were the oil supply tube. Both coolant lines and oil drain tube.
@@terrybaremor6361 gotcha. Thank you
I believe the one you're referring to is called the Turbo Coolant Drain Tube.
@@3DayWeekend thank you, I had to order it from GM and fixed it fortunately!
What is the symptoms of a bad turbo so I can know
I listed a few. The top two would be the check engine light for low/high boost and a drastic loss of power.
My 2014 cruze only has 60,000km showing PO299 do you think it is turbo?
It very well could be, but I wouldn't 100% guarantee it. It is possible to have a bad sensor causing it, but since the turbo is a common failure on these engines, it is highly likely.
Your video has informed me so much and I decided to do this job myself! Next weekend I will get all the parts as well as oil cooler gaskets since it is also leaking from there. I was wondering how long did this take you to remove them to put it back? I know you did it two separate days. In your opinion what was the hardest part of the job? Thank you for your video once again!
Good luck to you! I hope it all goes smoothly! It took me a couple evenings to take it off and a few hours to get it back on there. I've had to do it so many times on other cars that now I can do the whole job in under 2 hours. The hardest part is the rear 8mm drain tube bolt under the turbo. The 17mm banjo bolt for the coolant that goes into the block is a close 2nd. It's harder to take those off than it is to put them on for sure!
@@3DayWeekend Hello! I actually was able to do this funny enough on a 3Day Weekend. The hardest part for me definitely was putting on that 17 mm coolant line. I found out that if you get under the car you can see the bolt and the plug and you can alight it easier and tighten it from the front. Wow that’s fast for this job I think combined it took me around 6 hours as I wanted to take it nice and easy but she is all good🙌🏼
Interesting that you have a lift, but not a bolt/nut extraction set😊😊 The electrical connector, instead of removing metal clip, just push it in to release connector. Was a good video though.
You know... I just never really have good luck with extraction sets. Maybe I should give them a shot before I jump right into shaving the part down and grabbing it with pliers! haha And yes, I realized that with the connector later on. I assumed they were an older type that MOPAR used to use but realized they were push-to-release when I was putting them back on. Thanks for watching and for keeping me honest!
Please tell us the mileage on these cars your working on. By the looks of that engine id guess 120k
You are good! I believe it had 122K at the time of this repair. Good suggestion, I'll mention that in future videos!
@@3DayWeekend That oil cap leaks (& sprays) under boost. The upgraded is taller & has a baffle to keep oil DOWN where it belongs.
Where did you buy the new turbo and how much ?
I bought mine directly from my local Chevy dealer. I believe at the time it was roughly $700. There are cheaper options out there, but I can't speak to their longevity.
Do you know that old saying “fake it till you make it”. I believe that it applies extremely well with this video. maybe next time do the job a couple of times so when you’re talking about it you sound like you know what you’re talking about. Having that confidence of knowledge and information is very commanding and it makes people susceptible to not watching another video, but referencing yours again as they’re doing the actual job. I’m not disrespecting your video. Honestly I’d give it a 6.5 out of 10 because there was a lot of rookie mistakes but all in all it was a pretty good informative video. Please take what I said constructively my intentions aren’t evil. Pro tip; Don’t forget to fill up that oil reservoir where you’re placing your oil Filler hose onto before starting it. It’s a really bad idea to run that turbo dry with no oil in it waiting for the pump to put oil in there. Seriously though, turbos LOVE oil.. one more thing you don’t have to drain all the coolant. if you pull off at hose you’re gonna lose less than a half a quart. That will save you some time and money. I know that coolant ain’t cheap.
Thanks for sharing. This was my first time pulling the turbo off one of these engines, so I was not confident at all! Since this video that was made a couple of years ago, I've pulled countless turbos so if I were to do another video, it would be much more streamlined, and I have learned some "best practices" along the way. Believe it or not, a good number of people prefer a video format where it feels like "we're in this together as we figure it out", according to the video analytics. I experiment with all kinds of approaches in my videos - direct and to the point, and completely winging it. Some do better than others and I can adjust. I appreciate your feedback. I always take it under consideration for future releases.
For your two remarks - yes, I do fill the turbo with oil once I connect the drain tube. That is definitely something that everyone should do. Alternatively, I'll disconnect the coil pack and crank it for a bit to get the oil flowing, especially after doing a head gasket or something major. For the coolant - I have since found that there is a drain plug in the radiator with a nipple for attaching a hose. When doing this job now, I'll attach a hose to that and run it into a clean jug so I can put it right back in when I'm done. No waste at all, and no need for more coolant!
All good suggestions, and together we can all improve. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment on the video. Have a good one!
Do you need to seal the turbo gasket?
For the oil drain tube? No, the gasket makes the seal. No need for silicone on it.
on the my new pipe for the oil cooler line was not A T_45 it was a 3/8 allen wrench bolt now and I didn't get it from the dealership they wanted more then where I get my parts
Interesting.... I've done a few and they were all T-45. Maybe they used something different in early/late years. Good tip! And yes, the dealership is going to be the most expensive for sure. I just didn't want to take a chance on an aftermarket part, especially since this isn't my car!
Helpful video. Thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
What were the symptoms of the blown turbo?
Mine was a noticeable lack of power and a check engine light with the "underboost" code.
Would it of been easier with radiator removed?
Possibly... You can get to everything, it can just be difficult to find the tool with the correct reach!
Can I ask was this done before or after you did the head gasket twice …..gosh I was so sad for you lol
This was done first. It was throwing codes for a bad turbo so naturally I just replaced it. After the new turbo was installed and it was running great again, that's when I noticed the white smoke out the tailpipe, which is why the original turbo had failed.
Yeah, live and learn! This Cruze definitely tried my patience, but I got her going again!
Do u pre lube the turbo? If so where at?
I have not pre-lubed any of these turbos and they have been fine. However, the oil charge line connection is the large torx banjo bolt right on the top. You could pour some oil down through there if you wanted.
Followed the video, everything went well, put in new oil, but when I start it it's making a ton of loud noise. Anyone know about this? Thank you
Is your exhaust manifold in good condition? V-band in one piece? You likely have an exhaust leak somewhere.
what did they charge for this new turbo?
I don't recall exactly, and the prices go up and down. I want to say it was about $500 for all the parts.
Do a video on the oil pan gasket ?
Sorry, I don't have that car anymore!
Good job my friend
Thank you 👍
How many hours of labor?
Doing it myself for the first time? I'd say maybe 4 hours or so. It all depends if those manifold bolts come out...
Looks like an easy job tbh hope mine never blows tho
You'll know if it does! Typically it will start with power surges, then the check engine light for low boost. It's not a bad job, as long as the exhaust manifold bolts aren't rusted too bad. Thanks for watching!
Can a faulty turbo cause blow by?
No, I don't believe so. Unfortunately I would suspect rings / pistons / block. Your first test should be a compression check then go from there. Hopefully it's not too serious!
how do cars get so much rust on all the fasteners and hardware? Are you in Ohio or something?
Even better... Upstate New York! The salt is TERRIBLE!
My 05 Cobalt with 450,000 km has fewer rusted bolts and clamps.
I wish we didn't use salt on the roads. Vehicles rust so quickly on the rust belt!
@@3DayWeekend Im in rust central and still have fewer rusted fasteners. My doors and rocker panels are a different story. lol
I went to mechanic and they told me I have to change the turbo what happen if I don’t change it I just drive it l?
Poor power, poor fuel economy. Worst case scenario your engine will run rich because it's not getting as much as as it should, and the catalytic converter could clog up. If that happens, it'll double your repair bill. I know they are pricey, but I would highly recommend getting it done as soon as possible!
Worse POS car part ever made! Thank you for posting this video. I have to replace this very part
Definitely seems to be a common failure point! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Where's the link for the new turbo?
I got mine from my local Chevy dealer. There are cheaper options on Amazon, Ebay, etc., but I can not speak to their compatibility and longevity.
Which coolant lines are those
Which lines, the turbo coolant lines?
@@3DayWeekend yessir
Oil cooler pipe new comes with different size bolts not T45
Oh really.... They must have changed that recently. My replacement came with a T45 but that was a while ago. Are they still torx? Is it a step bigger or a step smaller?
Great video
Thanks!
There’s a special place in hell for the person that designed this car.
Haha yes! That turbo is a PAIN. The rest isn't terrible, but those manifold bolts and drain bolts - hate them!
That 17mm coolant line!! Haha how the heck?? 😂
I hate that line. I've gotten pretty good at it though. My 6" extension fits in there perfectly. If you hold the light just right, you can see it. Still. Not my favorite. It's harder to put it back in than it is to take it out!
Anybody know if the cheap eBay ones are worth a crap ?
I've heard of them failing pretty quickly. Of the reviews I've read, some people had issues again within 500 miles.
Tengo un Chevy Cruze prende se escucha un ruido fuerte y s apaga
Eso no suena bien... No lo ejecutaría más. Deberías llevarlo a un taller para que lo diagnostiquen.
Oil pan gasket next please !!!
Sorry, I don't have that car anymore!
If I replace my turbo I'm buying the zzp setup
Sounds good! We just wanted this one back to stock.
I always take a 5 day weekend.
Haha even better!
The the wastegate thing broke and I fixed it and no problems scince then
Great! Unfortunately I wasn't as fortunate on this one. Thanks for watching!
CAN YOU DELETE A TURBO FROM A CAR
It is possible to delete a turbo from a car, but it would require having someone tune the computer or quite possibly replacing the computer with an aftermarket one (depending on the limitations of the software in the computer itself), then have that computer tuned. Either of those options would be more expensive and time consuming than replacing the turbo. If you have a faulty turbo, the only way to fix it properly and ensure the engine operates correctly is to replace the turbo.