That looks good! Getting professional looking front panels has always been a stumbling block for any electronic project. I've had success having the layout artwork printed by companies that print photos on metal. The trick is to find someone who can make exact 1:1 prints on aluminum, so you'll need to have a conversation with somebody at the printer to see if that's within their capability. The result is a panel that is very durable and lettering will not rub off. Metal prints are not that expensive. The other method I've used is a bit more complicated, involves caustic chemicals and there's a risk of spoiling the panel if you're not careful. Eye protection and gloves are required for safety. The basic steps are to create a computer graphic (panel sized) with a black background and white graphics (titles, drill marks, logo, etc). The layout is printed in reverse, 1:1 on a laser printer using PCB transfer paper. A hot laminator is used to transfer the printed image to black (or colored) anodized aluminum plate. Areas covered by the toner will resist the etching solution which is 1 part sodium hydroxide and 2 parts water (3 tablespoons total is plenty). Using a Q tip, spread just enough etching solution over the words or graphics, one item at a time. Move the Q tip back and forth over the graphic. Soon you'll see bare aluminum and the graphic will appear silver against the background. As soon as the graphic is sharp, quickly rinse the area with water to clear away the etchant. Do this for all the other graphics on the panel and wash and dry the panel. This is pretty labor intensive, but durable panels can result.
That is a nice process. A little expensive to get started. I've been using waterslide decals. A lot less expensive, and there are color options available for the lettering . Adds a somewhat protective layer to the amp face. Can also clear coat both ways.
at the final step, if you spritz the panel with a mist of water, you can float the transfer tap on the panel. Once it's where you want it, use a squeege to stick the tape down.
A couple of years ago I saw a video from a guy who made a vinyl stencil for a faceplate using a Cricut Joy. So I bought a Cricut Joy and couldn't figure out how to make custom stencils with the littering and proportions I needed. If anyone knows how to do this with a Cricut Joy, please point me in the right direction. Thank you, Terry for giving me some hope that I could still do this.
When you transfer the artwork to the panel you can spray a diluted soap mixture on the panel, apply the artwork and slide it around into perfect position. Then press in place and lightly squeegee the vinyl down. There is even commercial, liquid solutions for doing just that.
Holy Moly! My life is so weird. The coincidences and synchronicities are getting harder and harder to ignore. I just finished building a custom enclosure for 60s Silvertone 1482 combo. Did away with the "combo" and just made it a little head. (Red Cedar btw). Im sure ur familiar with their design. The vertical zig-zag control layout was impractical and visually unappealing to me. So l made a new aluminum faceplate and laid out the controls in line, horizontally. I've been ruminating on my print overlay throughout the whole project... Now BOOM! As if on cue, here comes Uncle D with most likely exactly what I'm looking for. Now I'll STFU, watch and learn! Thank's D-lab!
Wow l8ke l said above, these coincidences are getting crazy. 3weeks ago l cleaned out my elderly neighbor's garage. So she could start parking inside. In there was one of these vinyl cutters. Everything still in the box. Brand new, never opened. She said she'd bought it for her daughter years ago and she never showed any interest in it. She said l could have it! I know how expensive they are so l declined... Now l think it might have been Providence. I'm walking next door RIGHT NOW and ask her if l can still have it!
These days I acutally make them out of aluminum PCB, so much easier and you can get about 5 pieces for bout 15 bucks delivered. Finish on those is really great.
Ive got another project in the pipe. I would like to Jewel the faceplate on this particular amp. Would you consider making us a video on Jeweling on aluminum?
The skill required for the artwork and finishing is why I did the wiring and another employee did the cabinets. We weren't in business, just before and after work projects in the '80s. We repaired a few tvs and some stereo gear for peanuts or a bottle of scotch. Afternoon rush hour traffic was bad and leaving work at 5 pm meant getting home 14 miles away around 645 or later depending on how many lanes were closed for construction or a wreck inside one of the tunnels.
I had made a reference to a "cutting mat" in response to your question, but it seems that my original comment was deleted by the RUclips bot 🤷🏻♂️, since I had mentioned the name of a popular product website (it rhymes with "flea bay") 🤭 So this is my re-posted comment.
@@d-labelectronics they're not durable at all. They must be coated with an enamel clear spray. Or you could print them reversed and put them under a plexiglass panel like Marshall used to.
There is video from a few years ago by a guy who used the Cricut Joy but I can't find that video again. He made it look so easy. I didn't have a Cricut Joy at that time. Now I have one but can't figure it out.
At 8:13 you came dangerously close to getting an unlike... you didn't show the most critical step: how to place the decals down and how to prevent bubbles and wrinkles. It was a good video and I gave you a thumbs up, but that one step that you don't show is the crux of the technique that you should be showing. A "thumbs up minus" or 4 out of 5 stars. I have a technique for those of us that don't have expensive vinyl cutting machines (as we rarely make panels). I print out what on want 1:1 scale on my ink jet printer (in color and any artwork that I want), I am limited to 8.5 by 11 inch paper, but I can "mozaic" multiple sheets if I can live with seams from the multiple sheets. Then I apply a super thin coat of wood glue to the panel and scrape away the glue with a shop razor until I have about 0.001 inch thick of glue, then I lay the paper down on top of the glue and press it down with some books. Because the glue layer is so thin you have to work fast, but it has to be thin so it doesn't soak through the paper (which ruins the look). After an hour of pressing, I spray very, very, thin misting coats of clear polyurethane on the paper. Again, very, very, very thin coats as to not soak into the paper but rest on top of it. As you build layers, you can go slightly thicker coats but very thin coats works best. Give about an hour for each coat to dry before the next coat. Usually 10 coats in all. This creates water resistant and fairly durable panel markings - maintenence: wipe clean with a damp cloth. It is time consuming but the cost is far less than using an expensive vinyl printer. I normally do this on thin wood panels, but it will work on aluminum panels as well. I wish vinyl cutter machines were more affordable because your method is great, but I get professional "looking" panels that so far have held up to the test of time. In lieu of spraying, a clear vinyl sheet could be placed over the paper instead for nearly the same durable and professional look. I have a playlist for my technique on my channel. Thanks.
Also using punches is less messy, but it’s going to look, and sound good either way! Thanks D-Lab!
Yep. A good Greenlee is worth its weight in gold.
That looks good! Getting professional looking front panels has always been a stumbling block for any electronic project.
I've had success having the layout artwork printed by companies that print photos on metal. The trick is to find someone who can make exact 1:1 prints on aluminum, so you'll need to have a conversation with somebody at the printer to see if that's within their capability. The result is a panel that is very durable and lettering will not rub off. Metal prints are not that expensive.
The other method I've used is a bit more complicated, involves caustic chemicals and there's a risk of spoiling the panel if you're not careful. Eye protection and gloves are required for safety. The basic steps are to create a computer graphic (panel sized) with a black background and white graphics (titles, drill marks, logo, etc). The layout is printed in reverse, 1:1 on a laser printer using PCB transfer paper. A hot laminator is used to transfer the printed image to black (or colored) anodized aluminum plate. Areas covered by the toner will resist the etching solution which is 1 part sodium hydroxide and 2 parts water (3 tablespoons total is plenty). Using a Q tip, spread just enough etching solution over the words or graphics, one item at a time. Move the Q tip back and forth over the graphic. Soon you'll see bare aluminum and the graphic will appear silver against the background. As soon as the graphic is sharp, quickly rinse the area with water to clear away the etchant. Do this for all the other graphics on the panel and wash and dry the panel. This is pretty labor intensive, but durable panels can result.
That is a nice process. A little expensive to get started. I've been using waterslide decals. A lot less expensive, and there are color options available for the lettering . Adds a somewhat protective layer to the amp face. Can also clear coat both ways.
at the final step, if you spritz the panel with a mist of water, you can float the transfer tap on the panel. Once it's where you want it, use a squeege to stick the tape down.
Shucks and I was looking all over this for a list of materials to assemble a clone... Arggg fun Gould 😢
A couple of years ago I saw a video from a guy who made a vinyl stencil for a faceplate using a Cricut Joy. So I bought a Cricut Joy and couldn't figure out how to make custom stencils with the littering and proportions I needed. If anyone knows how to do this with a Cricut Joy, please point me in the right direction. Thank you, Terry for giving me some hope that I could still do this.
Great work Terry.
Beautiful Job Terry
When you transfer the artwork to the panel you can spray a diluted soap mixture on the panel, apply the artwork and slide it around into perfect position.
Then press in place and lightly squeegee the vinyl down.
There is even commercial, liquid solutions for doing just that.
Thanks for the tip, I will research that solution
Yes!
Great technique...thanks for sharing!
Awesome Terry. You're a craftsman.
Well done. Very clean work indeed
Fab job Terry, great info and example..! Ed..UK..😀
Nice work Terry, you just gave me another way for amp panel plate making. Thank you!
Holy Moly! My life is so weird. The coincidences and synchronicities are getting harder and harder to ignore. I just finished building a custom enclosure for 60s Silvertone 1482 combo.
Did away with the "combo" and just made it a little head. (Red Cedar btw). Im sure ur familiar with their design. The vertical zig-zag control layout was impractical and visually unappealing to me. So l made a new aluminum faceplate and laid out the controls in line, horizontally. I've been ruminating on my print overlay throughout the whole project...
Now BOOM! As if on cue, here comes Uncle D with most likely exactly what I'm looking for.
Now I'll STFU, watch and learn!
Thank's D-lab!
Wow l8ke l said above, these coincidences are getting crazy. 3weeks ago l cleaned out my elderly neighbor's garage. So she could start parking inside. In there was one of these vinyl cutters. Everything still in the box. Brand new, never opened. She said she'd bought it for her daughter years ago and she never showed any interest in it. She said l could have it! I know how expensive they are so l declined... Now l think it might have been Providence. I'm walking next door RIGHT NOW and ask her if l can still have it!
Nice job Terry. Looks great!
Looks great.
Perfect! My wife owns a CAMEO 4 PRO Hobby plotter cutting machine. And will have new projects ;-)
These days I acutally make them out of aluminum PCB, so much easier and you can get about 5 pieces for bout 15 bucks delivered.
Finish on those is really great.
Looks fantastic
Nice Job Terry !
Sweet.
Nice model sir thanks for sharing 😊
The original Tap Magic contains 1.1.1 Trichloroethane! Nasty stuff! ☠️
Ive got another project in the pipe. I would like to Jewel the faceplate on this particular amp. Would you consider making us a video on Jeweling on aluminum?
I wonder if a less expensive craft vinyl cutting machine (like a Cricut) would also work...
This would drive me mad! I'm wondering whether a coat of clear lacquer would protect the writing?
Two coats should!
Amazingly, Fender applied their headstock decals without a topcoat in the 1950s.
👍👍👍
Nice
The skill required for the artwork and finishing is why I did the wiring and another employee did the cabinets. We weren't in business, just before and after work projects in the '80s. We repaired a few tvs and some stereo gear for peanuts or a bottle of scotch. Afternoon rush hour traffic was bad and leaving work at 5 pm meant getting home 14 miles away around 645 or later depending on how many lanes were closed for construction or a wreck inside one of the tunnels.
Pretty Kool
Those dental picks sure come in handy.
That looks great Terry!
So, what I heard is that youd be glad to make these for us. Just send you the layout?
😅
I can make you one, but yes, all dimensions would have to be specified. Length maximum is 24" It wont be cheap!
Nice !!
Great work! What design software package do you use?
You worked on a "green board." What is the technical name of that ruled board? I see those on technicians benches but don't know how to obtain one,
I had made a reference to a "cutting mat" in response to your question, but it seems that my original comment was deleted by the RUclips bot 🤷🏻♂️, since I had mentioned the name of a popular product website (it rhymes with "flea bay") 🤭 So this is my re-posted comment.
Check with Hobby Hobby.
Hello if you can I have a 1955 car radio that I would love see working again could you do it it is vacuum tubes
Real men do their own screen printing of panels. 😀
Wouldn't water-slide inkjet decal paper be a whole lot easier?
Could be. I'm not sure how durable they are compared to the vinyl
@@d-labelectronics they're not durable at all. They must be coated with an enamel clear spray. Or you could print them reversed and put them under a plexiglass panel like Marshall used to.
Is your vinyl cutter made by Roland?
Hey could you use a cricut for this
Not sure, I have not seen their software
There is video from a few years ago by a guy who used the Cricut Joy but I can't find that video again. He made it look so easy. I didn't have a Cricut Joy at that time. Now I have one but can't figure it out.
Ok thanks I was just wondering that answers my question thanks
At 8:13 you came dangerously close to getting an unlike... you didn't show the most critical step: how to place the decals down and how to prevent bubbles and wrinkles. It was a good video and I gave you a thumbs up, but that one step that you don't show is the crux of the technique that you should be showing. A "thumbs up minus" or 4 out of 5 stars. I have a technique for those of us that don't have expensive vinyl cutting machines (as we rarely make panels). I print out what on want 1:1 scale on my ink jet printer (in color and any artwork that I want), I am limited to 8.5 by 11 inch paper, but I can "mozaic" multiple sheets if I can live with seams from the multiple sheets. Then I apply a super thin coat of wood glue to the panel and scrape away the glue with a shop razor until I have about 0.001 inch thick of glue, then I lay the paper down on top of the glue and press it down with some books. Because the glue layer is so thin you have to work fast, but it has to be thin so it doesn't soak through the paper (which ruins the look). After an hour of pressing, I spray very, very, thin misting coats of clear polyurethane on the paper. Again, very, very, very thin coats as to not soak into the paper but rest on top of it. As you build layers, you can go slightly thicker coats but very thin coats works best. Give about an hour for each coat to dry before the next coat. Usually 10 coats in all. This creates water resistant and fairly durable panel markings - maintenence: wipe clean with a damp cloth. It is time consuming but the cost is far less than using an expensive vinyl printer. I normally do this on thin wood panels, but it will work on aluminum panels as well. I wish vinyl cutter machines were more affordable because your method is great, but I get professional "looking" panels that so far have held up to the test of time. In lieu of spraying, a clear vinyl sheet could be placed over the paper instead for nearly the same durable and professional look.
I have a playlist for my technique on my channel.
Thanks.
..And Bob's you're Uncle