The schematic that schaller provides is dead on. I didn’t even need the bridge to mark out everything and it was perfect. Didn’t even have to adjust the intonation because it was so precise. You’re working a lot harder than you need to here.
I fitted a Schaller Hannes Piazo bridge for the first time on a custom guitar I built and use the print out on there web site and it is spot on you can measure the template positions when you print it out and I cut a 4m channel for the wires to go through into the for the electrics ..worked out a dream 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
I don't know if anyone has mentioned this or not but you could save allot of time here by using transfer screws its a machinist tool that's very simple to use and would make finding the location of the 2 holes for the bridge very fast and easy. Oh yeah and you make beautiful guitars amazing craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Re eye protectors: I wore mine the other day to do some routing. That done, I hung them up, ran a hand through [what's left of] my hair and swept a couple of bits of routings into my eyes. Obviously not your problem. Oh, I did have the extractor on the router but I was using a sled and a lot of stuff escaped downwards then went everywhere.
I'm sure I'm not the only one. But sharpened bolts into the holes, poking out slightly. Line up the bridge, press down hard, marks made exactly where you want them.
Hey Ben! I love your videos and all the content on this channel and you're probably one of the only if not *the* only luthier I'd take advice from at the moment. I don't build guitars myself, but I've dabbled in some tech work and light mods. Could you do a mini-torial or some form of short walkthrough of how to completely replace a tune-o-matic (+ tailpiece) bridge? I'm specifically concerned about removing the studs from the wood and putting new ones back in. Thanks a lot and keep up the good work! :)
It's a cool looking bridge, but am I correct in thinking it is right handed only? The diagrams on the schaller page certainly look like that to me, and I see no left handed purchase option.
Hey Ben. The guys at Schaller say thar the bridge is usable only on flattop guitars. For me this PAF Model doesn't seem flattopped. Am I wrong or is there a area left flat within the carving process to use the Hannes on this guitar? I would like to build a similar guitar to the PAF in my course at Crimson in April this year and currently looking for the specs. Greetings from Germany Philipp
Would it not be easier to string up the high and low e and attach to the bridge and then center the the two strings over the neck and make your center holes where the bridge will be screwed?
Ben, could you do a video on installing an original 2 post Floyd rose Trem, I am build an S type from scratch, I want to install the floyd recessed into the body, I haven't routed any of the body holes yet other than the neck pocket. I haven't been able to find a video anywhere on installing one from scratch.
That's just the most sexy guitar ever!. If that were an explorer type with original floyd rose and locking nut and some interesting electronics, I'd buy it emediately, at any price.. I'm building an explorer type with spalted apple (yes, apple! I thought it said maple on the site where I ordered it) top and going to try some dovetail inspired combination between the spalted apple and some piece of burled walnut with a nice pattern. But the walnut is very porous at some places and the spalted apple is quite soft as well, so I'm also going to use resin to make it harder. I also want to give it a flamed maple & walnut through neck. But the most tricky bit with this guitar is going to be the electronics. Little hint here: it's going to have a microcontroller, digital pots, smd rgb leds, rotary mode switch, breaker switch, several pots to tweak the microcontroller functions, midi input (yes input, to sync to a midi signal) and I'm going to make space for a midi output as well, just in case I'm going to have some other insane idea in the future.. :P Oh yes.. And did I mention this is going to be my first build? Yeah.. maybe a bit ambitious? Just a tiny bit? I'm sure I'll fail and then have to come to the UK for a three month course in order to fix all my mistakes.. :P
man i wish the company would just come out with a drilling template for all the holes and positioning for the damn bridge. would make everyones lives easier
Hey Ben! I was wondering about the mounting part, maybe you can cut 2 bolts and solder 2 short pins (or nails) above the bolts. When you put the bots on the bridge you can easily mark the spots to drill. I've never tried it of course but it's just an idea.
Wouldn't it be possible to make bolts with a sharp center point for positioning the attaching screw holes, using the threading in the bridge? Then again, inserting and unscrewing such bolts might be fiddly without a dedicated screwdriver surrounding the point, and of course a slot for that said screwdriver. Something like two holes around the point and a two prong fork as the tool, maybe?
...and finally, given that the Hannes bridge seems to be a bit of pig to install, and apart from it looking cool (YMMV), what advantages does this bridge have that make this effort worthwhile?
@@timbeaton5045 The bridge is super comfortable to play, sounds great, and is very adjustable. It's also very easy to install under normal circumstances. Print out the template on their website to the correct size (which you can check with a reference scale on the printout), follow their very clear instructions to line it up on the guitar, drill holes, then install. You don't even need to get the bridge out of the box until all of this is done - then just bolt it on and install the ferrules (or baseplate, depending on the model). This video demonstrates more of a "Rube Goldberg" approach for someone without, say, access to a printer in their workshop who has to install the bridge ASAP. It's also possible that, at the time this video was made, the template was not available, or maybe it was done this way for the sheer heck of it.
Would you not be able to trace the necessary points from the underside of the bridge onto a piece of clear acetate, then use that to transfer to the guitar?
Pretty sure, when I bought a Hannes bridge, that it came with a paper template. By all means verify against the bridge itself after transferring the points with an awl, but it HAS to be better than overcomplicating things like this!
Lol he said "pillar drill" and I was like wtf is a pillar drill and then realized he was talking about what us Americans refer to as a drill press. And yes I also say use it if you got it because that job need a lot of accuracy to get it right. It will save the headache of having to refill a hole and trying again. For those who don't know 'run out' is the amount the spindle of the drill press wobbles while it is spinning and is why if your drill press is producing larger holes than the bit then the spindle is wobbling. Excessive run out will produce a hole similar to using a hand drill. To stop tear out from happening start with a small drill bit. I have seen brad points tear out wood so his tips on tape and going slow is sound advice. He is only able to use the final size drill bit because of how slow he went. My press is on its slowest setting and it is still too fast to produce a clean hole in wood without doing the smaller drill bit first and using tape. There are a ton of reasons to do it exactly the way he does it but I like te video because of how in depth it is at explaining what he is doing. If your bridge requires post holes instead of a fancy bridge then you will probably want ot finish up with a Forstner bit since it produces a flat bottom hole. Again great work and great job at explaining it.
I would fill the lettering on the screws with ebony dust and superglue to basically highlight the 'defect' - or grind & polish them out. Doesn't look like they're so deep you couldn't do that...
Er...you could always print out the template on the Schaller page, check the print-out dimensions and use that.... Here:- schaller.info/en/hannes-bridge And then, why not make a plywood or Perpex template for next time?
Why not get or make some dowel transfer points: i5.walmartimages.com/asr/e0270f65-a79d-4dd2-beea-a9c006414605_1.41e1cc1f625ada41aaffb5cd8905ad01.jpeg?odnHeight=450&odnWidth=450&odnBg=FFFFFF You could easily turn some threaded stud of the same size as the fixings, turn them to a sharp point, screw them in, line up the bridge, press it down and you have transferred the centre of the fixings. Or get some cone point grub screws: 2.imimg.com/data2/HF/GU/MY-4301919/cone-point-grub-screw-500x500.jpg screw them in flat side first so the point faces out. Do the same as above.
Why don't you just start with: 1) A layer of tape under the entire bridge area you can draw on 2) All the saddles removed ??? Definitely improvement to be made to ease work and improve accuracy in your process.
Are ever disappointed by the yellowing that occurs when you finish a guitar? I thought that guitar was so incredibly beautiful when it was grey, but now it’s more yellow and brown.
The schematic that schaller provides is dead on. I didn’t even need the bridge to mark out everything and it was perfect. Didn’t even have to adjust the intonation because it was so precise. You’re working a lot harder than you need to here.
Alex Perkins lol
Why measure yourself ya know? Manufactures directions have always been perfect.
Moron
I fitted a Schaller Hannes Piazo bridge for the first time on a custom guitar I built and use the print out on there web site and it is spot on you can measure the template positions when you print it out and I cut a 4m channel for the wires to go through into the for the electrics ..worked out a dream 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
This is one of the best produced videos you've ever shot. Congratulations!
Is there any way, you could make a similar video for an evertune bridge ? I’m kinda stuck at that part :/
"slow is smooth, smooth is fast" Gorgeous guitar. Cheers! Chris.
The burl wood grain is just amazing. I bet this guitar is just stunning to see in person.
I don't know if anyone has mentioned this or not but you could save allot of time here by using transfer screws its a machinist tool that's very simple to use and would make finding the location of the 2 holes for the bridge very fast and easy. Oh yeah and you make beautiful guitars amazing craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Re eye protectors: I wore mine the other day to do some routing. That done, I hung them up, ran a hand through [what's left of] my hair and swept a couple of bits of routings into my eyes.
Obviously not your problem.
Oh, I did have the extractor on the router but I was using a sled and a lot of stuff escaped downwards then went everywhere.
That guitar is sick asf. I wish it was mine.
Dude.... Id give a testicle for it
I'm sure I'm not the only one. But sharpened bolts into the holes, poking out slightly. Line up the bridge, press down hard, marks made exactly where you want them.
It’s only right to be drinking coffee as I’m watching this...glancing over at myTL build wondering how nice that bridge would look....
have you tried putting the bridge on a copy machine and making a copy of it then using the paper copy as the form to set it all up?
Hey Ben! I love your videos and all the content on this channel and you're probably one of the only if not *the* only luthier I'd take advice from at the moment. I don't build guitars myself, but I've dabbled in some tech work and light mods. Could you do a mini-torial or some form of short walkthrough of how to completely replace a tune-o-matic (+ tailpiece) bridge? I'm specifically concerned about removing the studs from the wood and putting new ones back in. Thanks a lot and keep up the good work! :)
I always pictured a Kahler going on this one! Still one of my favorite tops on a guitar.
It's a cool looking bridge, but am I correct in thinking it is right handed only? The diagrams on the schaller page certainly look like that to me, and I see no left handed purchase option.
Hey Ben. The guys at Schaller say thar the bridge is usable only on flattop guitars. For me this PAF Model doesn't seem flattopped. Am I wrong or is there a area left flat within the carving process to use the Hannes on this guitar?
I would like to build a similar guitar to the PAF in my course at Crimson in April this year and currently looking for the specs.
Greetings from Germany
Philipp
omg, what is the wood? that is so beautiful
Would it not be easier to string up the high and low e and attach to the bridge and then center the the two strings over the neck and make your center holes where the bridge will be screwed?
Thank you for the vid. Beautiful axe! 💚🎸
Ben, could you do a video on installing an original 2 post Floyd rose Trem, I am build an S type from scratch, I want to install the floyd recessed into the body, I haven't routed any of the body holes yet other than the neck pocket. I haven't been able to find a video anywhere on installing one from scratch.
That's just the most sexy guitar ever!. If that were an explorer type with original floyd rose and locking nut and some interesting electronics, I'd buy it emediately, at any price.. I'm building an explorer type with spalted apple (yes, apple! I thought it said maple on the site where I ordered it) top and going to try some dovetail inspired combination between the spalted apple and some piece of burled walnut with a nice pattern. But the walnut is very porous at some places and the spalted apple is quite soft as well, so I'm also going to use resin to make it harder. I also want to give it a flamed maple & walnut through neck. But the most tricky bit with this guitar is going to be the electronics. Little hint here: it's going to have a microcontroller, digital pots, smd rgb leds, rotary mode switch, breaker switch, several pots to tweak the microcontroller functions, midi input (yes input, to sync to a midi signal) and I'm going to make space for a midi output as well, just in case I'm going to have some other insane idea in the future.. :P Oh yes.. And did I mention this is going to be my first build? Yeah.. maybe a bit ambitious? Just a tiny bit? I'm sure I'll fail and then have to come to the UK for a three month course in order to fix all my mistakes.. :P
man i wish the company would just come out with a drilling template for all the holes and positioning for the damn bridge. would make everyones lives easier
Hey Ben! I was wondering about the mounting part, maybe you can cut 2 bolts and solder 2 short pins (or nails) above the bolts. When you put the bots on the bridge you can easily mark the spots to drill. I've never tried it of course but it's just an idea.
Wouldn't it be possible to make bolts with a sharp center point for positioning the attaching screw holes, using the threading in the bridge? Then again, inserting and unscrewing such bolts might be fiddly without a dedicated screwdriver surrounding the point, and of course a slot for that said screwdriver. Something like two holes around the point and a two prong fork as the tool, maybe?
...and finally, given that the Hannes bridge seems to be a bit of pig to install, and apart from it looking cool (YMMV), what advantages does this bridge have that make this effort worthwhile?
PS This is a Gen-yoo-wine question! Not being snarky!
@@timbeaton5045 The bridge is super comfortable to play, sounds great, and is very adjustable. It's also very easy to install under normal circumstances. Print out the template on their website to the correct size (which you can check with a reference scale on the printout), follow their very clear instructions to line it up on the guitar, drill holes, then install. You don't even need to get the bridge out of the box until all of this is done - then just bolt it on and install the ferrules (or baseplate, depending on the model).
This video demonstrates more of a "Rube Goldberg" approach for someone without, say, access to a printer in their workshop who has to install the bridge ASAP. It's also possible that, at the time this video was made, the template was not available, or maybe it was done this way for the sheer heck of it.
great design ! this gitschn is great looking! + very welly made-rockn rolly, meister ben!
Would you not be able to trace the necessary points from the underside of the bridge onto a piece of clear acetate, then use that to transfer to the guitar?
There are also installation templates on their website that can be printed on transparent paper or foil.
That is a magnificent instrument. Where are the galleries of all these so we can fail to afford them?
Why didn't you make a wax paper template to find the holes and then use an aul (forgive me if I misspell it ) to mark the holes before drilling ?
Michael Voisinet that what i was thinking take a piece of paper trace it and use it to mark holes a whanot
That guitar is such a masterpiece. Wouldn't it be great to see Brad Pitt using a brad point bit?
Pretty sure, when I bought a Hannes bridge, that it came with a paper template. By all means verify against the bridge itself after transferring the points with an awl, but it HAS to be better than overcomplicating things like this!
Lol he said "pillar drill" and I was like wtf is a pillar drill and then realized he was talking about what us Americans refer to as a drill press. And yes I also say use it if you got it because that job need a lot of accuracy to get it right. It will save the headache of having to refill a hole and trying again. For those who don't know 'run out' is the amount the spindle of the drill press wobbles while it is spinning and is why if your drill press is producing larger holes than the bit then the spindle is wobbling. Excessive run out will produce a hole similar to using a hand drill.
To stop tear out from happening start with a small drill bit. I have seen brad points tear out wood so his tips on tape and going slow is sound advice. He is only able to use the final size drill bit because of how slow he went. My press is on its slowest setting and it is still too fast to produce a clean hole in wood without doing the smaller drill bit first and using tape.
There are a ton of reasons to do it exactly the way he does it but I like te video because of how in depth it is at explaining what he is doing. If your bridge requires post holes instead of a fancy bridge then you will probably want ot finish up with a Forstner bit since it produces a flat bottom hole.
Again great work and great job at explaining it.
Hey dude, one day for sure. The kits are as close to the originals as we can get without being sued.. including the scale lengths etc.. B
I would fill the lettering on the screws with ebony dust and superglue to basically highlight the 'defect' - or grind & polish them out. Doesn't look like they're so deep you couldn't do that...
grind off the mill marks on the bolt heads and polish them, possibly
Or photocopy the bridge and you have a template.
Er...you could always print out the template on the Schaller page, check the print-out dimensions and use that....
Here:- schaller.info/en/hannes-bridge
And then, why not make a plywood or Perpex template for next time?
Don't you use "Jessica" any more?
Why not just make a paper template?
Nice saddles ;)
Look at that guitar! That's why Gibson can't compete anymore. Flame maple is out of fashion IMO
photocopying the underside of things gives you a picture of it
@ 2:59 *IF* you have a centreline???? Surely you do!
That guitar is gonna be so sweet! You know Schaller has a template on their website, right? schaller.info/en/hannes-bridge
Installation instructions ... shopware.p424425.webspaceconfig.de/media/pdf/a0/50/6a/Einbauanleitung_Schaller_final_120309_englisch.pdf
funfact: The Schaller Maincompany and its factory is 8 kilometers near my living place :D
Can you pop over for me and ask them to start making the Hannes Bridge again.. I gave heard that it is being discontinued ☹ B
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars here in germany i can still order the hannes bridges... also in the "bronze" colour that looks very used :D :D
Why not get or make some dowel transfer points:
i5.walmartimages.com/asr/e0270f65-a79d-4dd2-beea-a9c006414605_1.41e1cc1f625ada41aaffb5cd8905ad01.jpeg?odnHeight=450&odnWidth=450&odnBg=FFFFFF
You could easily turn some threaded stud of the same size as the fixings, turn them to a sharp point, screw them in, line up the bridge, press it down and you have transferred the centre of the fixings.
Or get some cone point grub screws:
2.imimg.com/data2/HF/GU/MY-4301919/cone-point-grub-screw-500x500.jpg
screw them in flat side first so the point faces out. Do the same as above.
Why don't you just start with:
1) A layer of tape under the entire bridge area you can draw on
2) All the saddles removed
???
Definitely improvement to be made to ease work and improve accuracy in your process.
You need the saddles on in order to determine intonation points.
Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast. Tai Chi
Are ever disappointed by the yellowing that occurs when you finish a guitar?
I thought that guitar was so incredibly beautiful when it was grey, but now it’s more yellow and brown.
Don't act so surprised that it all lines up, that's the desired outcome! Lol
You got Schaller right but Hannes has two syllables: HANNess.
@Silver Back 4
Does anyone else see creepy faces in the wood grain ?