Thanks for the tip! I swapped pads after every event.. my college budget didn't allow for fresh fluid every time. I usually went about 3 events on the same fluid and it seemed ok. Enjoy your car.
You are right, they do look worn down in the video. Thanks for pointing it out. They are still new, I just wore through the lettering on the center of the tire.
Thank you! I would say that if you can take off or add fluid without contaminating your brake fluid, you do not need to bleed. With that said, I don't like to mix fluids, so I usually bleed them :)
Hey it just comes down to money and time. I only change the rotors when they crack at the track. The OEM rotors seemed to hold up the best. Also, for a lubricant, I use a very high temp grease sense these brakes get really hot. Enjoy your car!
Very nice video/tips (specially the one about the rear piston). There is no need to bleed the system since you did not do anything involving taking off or adding brake fluid?
If it were me, I would mark the locations of the removed pads (driver left, inboard & outboard) as the rotors are different. That being said, pads wear in with the rotor and will give you the same contact area as before.
Excellent video. Just a question, what you mention the issue with the rear calipers and pushing the fluid back, you mentioned something about "damaging the car". Are you referring to the fluid itself or the act of pushing the fluid back. Would you recommend removing the cap of the reservoir and placing something around it to catch any fluid?
I crack open the bleeder screw with a hose attaches to the nipple so that when I push the piston back in the old fluid will drain out rather then push the old fluid back to the system. Changing pad is the time to bleed the brake fluid.
What I mean specifically is that even more so for the S, when the tire tread hits the wear-marker (as it kinda looks like in this video), don't hesititate in swapping them out. $300 or so for new rears is much better than $3000+ in damage ;)
Hey Gil. These days I just go to the parts store and buy some ceramic pads for use on the street. I am not much of a brake expert. I was told to go ceramic for low noise and low dust. I forgot the brand they gave me. I think it may have been raybestos or something along those lines. Enjoy your S2000!
hi, that was a very good video. i just notice that after i replace my rear pads/rotor. there is no gap between them. its tight but car drives fine, no noise but the rear rotor is hot without using it after a drive. is it sth i did wrong?
Oreo Cookie I do it all the time when I change from track to street pads 😜 If you have fresh fluid in there, then I wouldn't worry about it. If not, go ahead and give your s2000 a nice brake bleed and enjoy the firm pedal 😊 The one thing you need to be concerned about is overflow at the master cylinder when you push in the piston. Brake fluid is corrosive stuff .
ZentRose Hi ZentRose. Thank you for your kind reply. I actually have fresh brake fluid less than 10,000 miles ago. So, you just push pistons back without opening master cylinder cap nor bleeder screw? If i were gonna change pads with master cylinder cap open, is it very likely some fluid will spill? Thanks in advance! -Oreo Cookie
Oreo Cookie I use a caliper spreader on the front. Do not push in the rear pistons! The rear pistons twist-in with a special tool (you can get away with using a 3/8" socket driver). If fluid is near the top, just suck a little of it out with a turkey baster. Good luck!
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I followed your DIY and my brakes have been working great for a couple months now, Thanks man!
Thanks for the tip! I swapped pads after every event.. my college budget didn't allow for fresh fluid every time. I usually went about 3 events on the same fluid and it seemed ok. Enjoy your car.
You are right, they do look worn down in the video. Thanks for pointing it out. They are still new, I just wore through the lettering on the center of the tire.
start to finish in 1 hour, thanks for the awesome video !!!
Yes, I probably should be getting new tires. It seems like they are ok though even after the spin. No noticeable flat spots.
Thank you! I would say that if you can take off or add fluid without contaminating your brake fluid, you do not need to bleed. With that said, I don't like to mix fluids, so I usually bleed them :)
Hey it just comes down to money and time. I only change the rotors when they crack at the track. The OEM rotors seemed to hold up the best. Also, for a lubricant, I use a very high temp grease sense these brakes get really hot. Enjoy your car!
Very nice video/tips (specially the one about the rear piston). There is no need to bleed the system since you did not do anything involving taking off or adding brake fluid?
Awesome video man - clear and concise, u make it look too easy!
If it were me, I would mark the locations of the removed pads (driver left, inboard & outboard) as the rotors are different. That being said, pads wear in with the rotor and will give you the same contact area as before.
Excellent video. Just a question, what you mention the issue with the rear calipers and pushing the fluid back, you mentioned something about "damaging the car". Are you referring to the fluid itself or the act of pushing the fluid back.
Would you recommend removing the cap of the reservoir and placing something around it to catch any fluid?
I crack open the bleeder screw with a hose attaches to the nipple so that when I push the piston back in the old fluid will drain out rather then push the old fluid back to the system. Changing pad is the time to bleed the brake fluid.
Thank you. It was one of my favorite cars. Enjoy yours and take care of it!
awesome video! clean car! i have a ap2 myself! about to do a brake change tomorrow. Did a oil change today :)
My brake pads. The friction material is separating from the backing plate.... some halfway decent project mu. Very few miles.
What I mean specifically is that even more so for the S, when the tire tread hits the wear-marker (as it kinda looks like in this video), don't hesititate in swapping them out.
$300 or so for new rears is much better than $3000+ in damage ;)
were you just using a 3/8 drive ratchet alone to twist the rear caliper piston??
Sweet, good luck on doing your brakes! Enjoy your car.
All These years . ive never thought of using a 3/8 to screw in the rear caliper .
Yes I am. Engineering is pretty fun, only 2 classes left before I graduate!
The slide bolt locks against the caliper bracket
What brand of street pads did you use? I'm looking for low noise/low dust. Stopping power for the street isn't as important as track pads.
Hey Gil. These days I just go to the parts store and buy some ceramic pads for use on the street. I am not much of a brake expert. I was told to go ceramic for low noise and low dust. I forgot the brand they gave me. I think it may have been raybestos or something along those lines. Enjoy your S2000!
hi, that was a very good video. i just notice that after i replace my rear pads/rotor. there is no gap between them. its tight but car drives fine, no noise but the rear rotor is hot without using it after a drive. is it sth i did wrong?
+Mac Lai Mac are your calipers stuck? It is important to keep the slide pins greased (not shown in this video unfortunately).
Isn't that a front sway bar I see?
is it ok to push back the pistons without opening bleeder screw or master cylinder cap?
Oreo Cookie I do it all the time when I change from track to street pads 😜 If you have fresh fluid in there, then I wouldn't worry about it. If not, go ahead and give your s2000 a nice brake bleed and enjoy the firm pedal 😊
The one thing you need to be concerned about is overflow at the master cylinder when you push in the piston. Brake fluid is corrosive stuff .
ZentRose Hi ZentRose. Thank you for your kind reply. I actually have fresh brake fluid less than 10,000 miles ago. So, you just push pistons back without opening master cylinder cap nor bleeder screw?
If i were gonna change pads with master cylinder cap open, is it very likely some fluid will spill?
Thanks in advance!
-Oreo Cookie
Oreo Cookie I use a caliper spreader on the front. Do not push in the rear pistons! The rear pistons twist-in with a special tool (you can get away with using a 3/8" socket driver).
If fluid is near the top, just suck a little of it out with a turkey baster. Good luck!
You're welcome! Thanks.
Great! enjoy your car!
Watching this today
Thank you!
Nice how-to!
thanks for the tip. i was going to buy a special tool for the rear caliper, Now i wont buy one.
Good vid. Thank you.
Spilling brake fluid in your engine bay could damage your paint.
time for some new tires bud! :)
you must be working on a engineering degree, i only say this cuz no one thinks about torque, very inportant!!