@@danzhangy2343 I was using her polishing stuff and a nail file. With cuticle cutters to get them off the runners. I have since gotten actual nippers tho well worth the investment
@@Thegamercat420 It's safer than a hobby knife 😜. In all seriousness, yes, it actually IS safer than a hobby knife - not just for the finger, but the part as well. Sanding is a very gradual and controlled way of removing excess material, whereas a blade has a tendency to cut its own path if you're not super careful.
I'm a big fan of the glass files especially for any of the transparent pieces, it works really well on them. Also as far as cutting goes, usually I'm wearing gloves so I don't get any fingerprints or oil on the pieces, but I'll often also wear a small fabric Band-Aid or similar on my thumb and first finger if I do need to cut alot, so I have a little bit of a barrier in case there's a slip.
"Either cut towards or away from you" Do NOT cut towards yourself, I almost died once from doing that. I was trying to open a box and cut towards myself (feels more natural that way) and my knife got stuck so I just pulled harder and it suddenly got freed. I could feel only the very end of the tip of the knife poking my chest. It only takes one accident like that for you to nick an artery.
Im a first-time modeller to gundam. I do armour, aircraft, ships from 1/35 to 1/200 scale, thought I would give this a go. I wanted to see what the hype is lol.... It looks awesome
It's fun building, gundam. You can start with an easy one that's high grade. Probably get a 144 scale. To get used to it. The directions are in a different language, but they use numbers for directions, so it's easy to follow. The different grades are high-grade real grade mastergrade and perfect grade. The higher the grade, the more difficult the build is. I have built a high-grade areal grade and a master grade. Right now , I really like the real grades. There around 30 bucks, and it's as detailed as a master grade. Hopefully, this will help get you started, and happy building, bud.
I just bought a few gundam model kits myself to try out. Although before this I was building "zoid" models, specifically Kotobukiya's HMM line of zoids, which are highly detailed. You might want to check those out as well. Some of the classic models include Liger Zero, Berserk Fury, and if you are made of money, the massive Gojulas.
I don't know about the Japanese aircraft and boat kits, but I do know Gundams (and even the Zoid kits, back in the day) used a harder plastic than used in American model kits. More like the stuff used in toys...going from a Japanese kit back to a US kit, the latter feels soft.
@@Thegamercat420 One way to compare might to be to get a Bandai Star Wars kit, and then try to get a Revell kit of the same ship and scale, and compare that way.
ALWAYS cut towards yourself. That advice is so silly, you have so much more motor control cutting towards you. Just be careful when you do it, that's all.
If you use your fingers to control the blade and not your entire arm/wrist, you can avoid cutting yourself pretty easily, and you have much finer control over it than if you were to push away from you - if you're cutting up cardboard, do it away from you, but for precise work like this it's better to do it towards you
Thanks for the tips. I have a snipper and precision cutter, and just purchased a set of glass sanders. For the curves, do you think I could get away with just regular sandpaper at 400? I'm trying to build my first model and I'd like to avoid a long wait and higher price for something like Infini or equivalent sanders.
Under-gating makes it easier to remove, though. Just make the second nipper cut flush. It's going to be hidden, so you don't have to worry about potential stress marks. It makes assembly much smoother by eliminating lengthy nub removal.
For round parts i usually use sanding sponges. Usually a 3mm thickness or even a 2mm. As they follow the shape of the parts so you don’t accidentally flatten out the piece. As for coarseness. I usually start with either a 600 or an 800 grit depending on the size of the nub/marks. Then go up to 1000-2000-4000-6000 and finish off with an 8000. Hope this info is helpful.
@@rzo_kenji well forget about it,yesterday i finally build my HG GM Command Space,and i cut the runners using my Scissor,one of my scissor have a similiarity like a Nipper,and it can cut the runners just like nippers
Don't ever do it because you will regret it and damage the part. If you don't have a nipper at the moment than it's worth the wait until you bought some good nippers.
Well you could find a cheap one, like in my country i could find a microcutter plier (nipper) for 7 MYR ( probably few a dollar and few cents in US dollar) in your hardware store. Or bought an Entry Grade kit before moving on to High Grade kit
My girlfriend is a nail tech and I have been using on her tools to do everything and it works pretty good
What nail tools do you use?
@@danzhangy2343 I was using her polishing stuff and a nail file. With cuticle cutters to get them off the runners. I have since gotten actual nippers tho well worth the investment
Same case with my sister, I borrow various things from his work station
Thanks. I'll factor that in when I look a woman to settle with.
Messing up her shit boa 😂
you can still use a regular sandpaper to remove the nubs. Just fold them up to firm them and lightly sand to follow the form of the surface.
Absolutely! Just take care whether it’s a curved or flat surface
Honestly, the Raser is my favorite tool to use.
I like wet sanding the nubs; it helps in many ways.
I like wet sanding my nub. Jk lol
@@Thegamercat420 ouch
@@Thegamercat420 It's safer than a hobby knife 😜. In all seriousness, yes, it actually IS safer than a hobby knife - not just for the finger, but the part as well. Sanding is a very gradual and controlled way of removing excess material, whereas a blade has a tendency to cut its own path if you're not super careful.
I'm a big fan of the glass files especially for any of the transparent pieces, it works really well on them.
Also as far as cutting goes, usually I'm wearing gloves so I don't get any fingerprints or oil on the pieces, but I'll often also wear a small fabric Band-Aid or similar on my thumb and first finger if I do need to cut alot, so I have a little bit of a barrier in case there's a slip.
"Either cut towards or away from you"
Do NOT cut towards yourself, I almost died once from doing that. I was trying to open a box and cut towards myself (feels more natural that way) and my knife got stuck so I just pulled harder and it suddenly got freed. I could feel only the very end of the tip of the knife poking my chest. It only takes one accident like that for you to nick an artery.
Im a first-time modeller to gundam. I do armour, aircraft, ships from 1/35 to 1/200 scale, thought I would give this a go. I wanted to see what the hype is lol.... It looks awesome
It's fun building, gundam. You can start with an easy one that's high grade. Probably get a 144 scale. To get used to it. The directions are in a different language, but they use numbers for directions, so it's easy to follow. The different grades are high-grade real grade mastergrade and perfect grade. The higher the grade, the more difficult the build is. I have built a high-grade areal grade and a master grade. Right now , I really like the real grades. There around 30 bucks, and it's as detailed as a master grade. Hopefully, this will help get you started, and happy building, bud.
I just bought a few gundam model kits myself to try out. Although before this I was building "zoid" models, specifically Kotobukiya's HMM line of zoids, which are highly detailed. You might want to check those out as well. Some of the classic models include Liger Zero, Berserk Fury, and if you are made of money, the massive Gojulas.
I don't know about the Japanese aircraft and boat kits, but I do know Gundams (and even the Zoid kits, back in the day) used a harder plastic than used in American model kits. More like the stuff used in toys...going from a Japanese kit back to a US kit, the latter feels soft.
@VulpisFoxfire so japanese kits use harder plastics . Good to know. I'm going to have to get some japanese kits to see the difference. Thanks.
@@Thegamercat420 One way to compare might to be to get a Bandai Star Wars kit, and then try to get a Revell kit of the same ship and scale, and compare that way.
Its a good, quick tutorial on a beginner like me. I heard about tyosr glass ones.
Never cut towards yourself, but if you must, wear a cut-proof slip on your thumb and hold in a way to cut away from your body.
ALWAYS cut towards yourself. That advice is so silly, you have so much more motor control cutting towards you. Just be careful when you do it, that's all.
If you use your fingers to control the blade and not your entire arm/wrist, you can avoid cutting yourself pretty easily, and you have much finer control over it than if you were to push away from you - if you're cutting up cardboard, do it away from you, but for precise work like this it's better to do it towards you
I always cut towards myself for more control just never apply too much pressure and don’t be stupid.
Bless your immortal soul 🙏🏽
I have a quick question. What is the purpose of cutting far for the first cut if the second one would be cut against the piece ultimately?
where are the links?
I would love the see this but with darker parts like dark green, blue, or black
Thanks for the tips. I have a snipper and precision cutter, and just purchased a set of glass sanders.
For the curves, do you think I could get away with just regular sandpaper at 400? I'm trying to build my first model and I'd like to avoid a long wait and higher price for something like Infini or equivalent sanders.
Personally I think that grade of sandpaper would leave VERY notorious marks
Telling people to “cut towards or away from yourself” is wildddd. Please always cut away from yourself fuck what’s comfortable for you 😂 be safe
I gained knowledge
Can i use acrylic paint for hand painting gundams?
What to do if you lose a piece of
I used my guitar string cutters lol
Curious, which kit were you using in this video?
I just use a siren dspae for the nubs
meanwhile we have kits with under-gating that you have remove the nubs or the parts cannot sit flush properly when you put them together.
yes, this video is very helpful for that 👍
Under-gating makes it easier to remove, though. Just make the second nipper cut flush. It's going to be hidden, so you don't have to worry about potential stress marks. It makes assembly much smoother by eliminating lengthy nub removal.
any tips for ppl who arent as good as you with the hobby knife XD
I have two kinds of soft polishing bars: a kinda smooth one and a more "coarse" one. Which one should I use for round parts?
For round parts i usually use sanding sponges. Usually a 3mm thickness or even a 2mm. As they follow the shape of the parts so you don’t accidentally flatten out the piece.
As for coarseness. I usually start with either a 600 or an 800 grit depending on the size of the nub/marks. Then go up to 1000-2000-4000-6000 and finish off with an 8000.
Hope this info is helpful.
is this zaku Aurelius talking?
Sounds like it actually.
@@Jociaoftradesyes it is.
thank you
Remember that if you must cut toward you, hold it away from your body. Its better the knife digs into the piece then into your chest.
USAGS Branded Gunprimer Razer huh? Don't see it on the site yet. Teasing us with future merch or a special thing for yall?
I cut it exactly at the end of the gate 😂
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Hey dude i want to ask,can we cut a gunpla runners using Scissor?
No, you need to use a nipper
@@rzo_kenji well forget about it,yesterday i finally build my HG GM Command Space,and i cut the runners using my Scissor,one of my scissor have a similiarity like a Nipper,and it can cut the runners just like nippers
Don't ever do it because you will regret it and damage the part. If you don't have a nipper at the moment than it's worth the wait until you bought some good nippers.
@@saber_X-105 Just read your follow up comment on your question and I already answered, but happy to hear it worked out with the scissors.
@@yassinem356 well i can handle that actually,i build my GM Command Space in a perfect shape,nothing got damaged
When using a knife, always cut AWAY from yourself.
aside that good video 👍
What if you can’t afford the Snippers?
When Im starting to this hobby, Im using nail nippers as a starting tool like a caveman. Now im using the proper tools😆
if you can't afford a snipper, how do you plan on affording gunpla models?
Bruh
@@Denverian steal from someone
Well you could find a cheap one, like in my country i could find a microcutter plier (nipper) for 7 MYR ( probably few a dollar and few cents in US dollar) in your hardware store.
Or bought an Entry Grade kit before moving on to High Grade kit
😎👍🏼
I just leave it all fucked up looking
Please never cut towards yourself