Making a clutch cable nipple
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- How to make or repair a clutch cable nipple.
This works also for throttle and choke cables.
It will work for a brake cable, but best advice is to fit a new cable.
It involves making a mould in wood - about 20 minutes including finding the wood.
I used a olive wood.
You will need:
Solder - I used 97% Tin 3% copper
Plumbers acid paste - tin paste without lead (containing zinc chloride)
Blow torch
Solvent - I used petrol and acetone to finish
A fine wire brush to clean the bowden cable
7.5mm drill bit (measure the original nipple)
A thick hacksaw blade
Casting the nipple only takes a few minutes.
Awesome! I've worked with flux and soldering all my life and this never crossed my mind. Outstanding repair and idea my friend.
Thanks for those kind words Quick Sand :)
I made one last night using wood as a mould, I drilled the main hole to required depth and put a cross hole instead of a groove, I slotted the neatly cut cable in and pulled it up and out with round nose pliers, then I frayed the end out a bit and gave it a squirt with easy start to clean it and then I placed it in position in the hole. I packed the hole with flux and heated it up until it was boiling then I heated and dripped the solder in when I did this I saw the build rise up and then it dropped, that means that the solder has sunken in to fill the hole. I let it cool and broke the wood away from the side hole and out it came, it was in great shape. I guess there's quite a few methods, better moulds etc. I enjoyed your video.
Thanks for sharing Vucumprá :)
It's always a good feeling when a project goes well :)
I made the end piece for a brake cable by cutting a correct size piece of brass rod and drilling the cable diameter hole through it. I then drilled a hole the size of the brass rod outside diameter through a piece of steel plate and cut a slot the width of the cable diameter from the edge of the steel plate to the hole. I put the cable into the hole through the brass and placed the brass with the cable into the slot and hole. I placed the plate and cable with brass end piece onto an anvil and used a flat punch the diameter of the hole in the steel plate and hammered the punch onto the brass rod against the anvil through the hole in the steel plate which crimped the brass rod onto the cable. The compressed brass on the cable was extremely tight. The reason for placing the brass in a hole in a steel plate was to prevent it from spreading which put pressure on the cable all around.
Nice project ... thanks for taking the time to share it :)
Just another fellow with a workshop in his living room.
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
בס'ד
I've just been fixing a clutch cable on the lawnmower using a brake cable from Halfords. It only cost £3.99 (includes a sheath) and now is time to seal the end. Thanks for the video showing how to do it. The cable came with a small tiny nipple to go on the end of it but I think it's just crimp on and not strong enough. Will go with your method first
Just a little afterthought, has anybody tried soldering a new cable to stop it fraying? It was really easy and the solder just runs through all the strands. It could be part of the preparation for this method.
Good thinking Craig :)
Instead of making a wooden mould I used the inside of a brass elecrical screw connector as a nipple. The set screw and plastic cover were discarded. I cleaned the cable thoroughly several times and using several chemical and mechanical means. I tinned the stainless cable with a patent silver solder flux for stainless and the nipple with ordinary silver solder flux. It has to be strong as it is the clutch cable for a vintage car. And it seems to be doing the job.
thank you so much i completely snapped my throttle cable and just ran it to a break lever and clamped it down i then went and bought a throttle cable but its too long its meant for a derailer cost 2 bucks now youve shown me how to fix my problem and get my proper throttle on the go
Really pleased to have helped :)
thanks ..worked perfectly .i just drilled a hole an inch deep and made a slot half way down ,stuck the cable in ,filled it wi lead and when it set ,pulled it out and chopped to size .worked perfect
Nice one Mark!
It answers the question... why not buy a new cable?
If you just get on with it... you can have it done in no time :)
everyone of the bike shops said i need to buy a special cable for my make n model of motorcycle lol total and utter bollocks .i actually went to B&Q and got 5m of the exact size cable for £2.50 and made 5 lol
Hahaha... nice!
Yeah... bought by the length, bowden cable and sheathing is dirt cheap, and once you are set up it's quick and easy.
I bet you had thoughts of eBaying your 'special' clutch cable (it sounds expensive) :D
Good idea I'm going to try something similar only instead of using flux I will put a small blob of weld on the end of the cable only because I have no flux. Although I think it will be plenty strong enough for my clutch I would never do it on my brake cable,.
Nice video
Thanks
Andy.
Thanks Andrew... good luck with your fix :)
Borax is a fine flux.
i used a screw post extension, drilled a hole in the center of the side, inserted the cable and splayed the wires, filled it with molten solder, then cut to width and filed it.
Variety is definitely 'the spice of life' :)
Best the solder in a spoon get it very hot.... Then pour it in and of course pre tin the cable end then the solder poured in will melt the tinning on the cable and your solid as can be
You have the right idea maybe a little refining and tuning. How about drilling a hole in a piece of metal to get a more consistent shape as the clutch cable hole? Measure it with a depth gauge and so on...
Yes, for sure you are right.
The problem is that one does this kind of operation only a few times in one's life.
Twice for me, with a clutch, and choke cable.
:)
Hi. Great video, I did exactly as you demonstrated. I made the form slot and yes dropped in some smaller pieces of solder into the form to ensure fully filled. It worked perfectly. This has saved me from pretty much writing off my moped (because to have the brake cable replaced with labour would have cost more than the moped 😃). Very much appreciated, I really like the way you think... talent via common sense.
Hahah!
Doing something for the first time is always a bit scrappy; but thankfully it is a rare task :)
i took my 16lb sledge and smashed the cable into my clutch lever over and over then just to make sure it would work i used my 1500 watt glue gun to finalize the process....didnt work.....now i need a cable and a clutch lever and handlebars...
Ah yes, the hammer & glue method.
It has to be said, that the minimum sized hammer for this delicate work, would be 25lb.
I guess it just goes to show that you need the right sized tool to get the job done well :D
It won't be strong enough for a clutch. I prefer to drill a little steel piece and silver brazing the cable in the hole. Thanks for sharing your idea.
Good idea Michel - thanks for sharing ;)
Re the normal clutch cable repair, as described in the video ... it works fine ... it has never failed again.
The key to success is cleanliness :D
@@EngineTuning what about also lightly sanding the wire end a bit, vertically so the solder gets a better hold on,like solder on a copper pipe ,?works?
@@kaloosh2639 Agreed!
A good soldered joint is all down to cleanliness.
A degrease, followed by an acid wash, is good at enabling solder penetration :)
im thinking drill a hole in a brick, the slot is a bit harder,do doable if you do it near the edge, then you can get it good and hot
It would work!
But cutting the slot might be a touch more difficult.
If you used as scrap of gypsum board and not the wood you could get it hotter and the solder would flow better.
That's a good suggestion.
Thanks for taking the time to comment :)
For high tension cable fixture (different uses), is stronger a nipple or a loop ?
For this task, the nipple works fine, with a long history of use.
Thanks, really useful stuff to know :D
strrulee Glad to have helped.The nipple is working fine.... plenty strong enough.
:)
So this is strong enough? It doesn't brake off the wire easily?
It lasts for the life of the cable.
would u use lead or silver solder ?i do also have a silver brazing rod but not sure which is best
I personally used 97% tin 3% copper.
This is plumbers solder.
Lead-free and can be used in contact with drinking water.
It will surely be universally available, and inexpensive.
The nipple has never failed... therefore I can say that it is certainly strong enough.
Note: I also used a 'plumbers paste' containing Zinc Chloride (and probably some unmentioned acids).
Both the solder and the paste will be available from the same source, and both will last forever (effectively)... so ideal for future plumbing or soldering jobs.
Let us know how it went.
Good luck... it'll be fine :)
plumbers solder it is then lol ill get some of that .i just had my bike for 4 months and tried to start it this morning and the rev cable was loose in the mounting.im only glad it was outside the house so i dont need to push the bugger home lol thanx again
well I cut the cabble but the problem was the cabble is to short and I have no way to hook it up
Sorry to hear that Michael :(
The 1st rule in the 'Rule Book' is: *Measure twice... Cut once.*
Also, because the cable is so cheap... always buy lots of cable.
Are the measurements for the nipple universal? If so what are they please
+Tom Hoose
Tom..... to be fair..... I did state the dimensions.
Have another listen through, and write down the dimensions.
Otherwise.....check the dimensions of the female joint, to confirm that this nipple will fit.
If not... then modify the dimensions to suit.
You are so funny ha ha ha
I do my best to please.
Sometimes it works, and sometimes not.
Glad you enjoyed it :)
if you are not going to do it properly, don't do it at all, that is the worst coble up I've ever seen, take it down
Hahahah!
Bizarre then that it worked perfectly fine.
My advice is: that you try to maintain your dignity, at all times ;)
Making foolish remarks, makes you look silly :(
Chlape ty než se vymáčkneš co chceš a pak to domrdáš je hrůza
Are you suggesting that the fix doesn't work?
Porque el título está en español y el audio está en otro idioma que pérdida de tiempo sean serios que no todos somos bilingües
I spent some time writing the script in English (sub-titles), and arranging the timing..
English is the pivot language for translations.
In principal, the Spanish translation should be quite good, because Spanish is a major language.
People tell me that the Spanish auto-translate is acceptable.
However, many people often have a bad experience with auto translate, because the video creator usually, doesn't spend a few hours writing the script :(
If a RUclips video states 'sub-titles' it means that there is a script.
How good?
That is down to the creator, and auto-translate.
Can you try it again with sub-titles in Spanish?
... then perhaps you would be kind enough to provide some feedback on the translation.
:)
why not just buy a new clutch cable
Yes, it does remain an option... but it's very time consuming, and on top of that, you must donate some of your money that might be better spent funding something that you can't do in a few minutes.
Obviously, if you have a number of vehicles at your disposal, and excess money... then you can simply search for a clutch cable supplier... hopefully choose correctly for your model... order it... and use another vehicle while you await delivery.
But... even if you are in that position, and you don't need your bike....... perhaps fixing the problem yourself is just good fun.
Then there is that other issue.
Self-respect, and general respect.
This is a difficult one... you either get it or you don't, but...
Let's say you are in a group.
You announce that your clutch cable failed, so you looked around and finally find a supplier.
Nobody appreciates the shit load of time that you spent looking.
They might commiserate with you for ordering the wrong cable... but that's it (you could blame the supplier ;) )
However, if you announce that you had a cable failure, and that you fixed it by casting a new nipple...
Who's the cool guy that can do stuff?
... and anyway... that is just shite.
It's about your own self-respect.
Are you the guy who wastes his time looking for a supplier of a cable that might arrive and be wrong.
Or, are you the guy that simply fixes the problem, and gets on with life :)
Ricky Nunnery ... not all cables has that lead thing on both tips/ends of the cable ; is very difficult to find in market. One has to do it himselfe .
Great idea. use a piece of red hot steel wire to agitate the solder to get it to fall to the bottom of the hole. A wooden match shaft to cover the cable in the groove.
Yes... the method just needs a bit of tweaking.
But, having said that... the nipple has not failed, so it's good news :)
Thanks for this, I haven't found a good way to do it myself that lasts.... not for clutch or brake anyway, seems there is too much tension. Throttle cables are easy. The best result I've had was to get a copper tube that was the right diameter of the nipple, drill a small hole in the side of it , then cut the tube to the right length, feed the cable through the new hole then 90 degrees out the end. Smash the end of the cable to make it flare out, and pull it back into the tube and flare it in all directions inside the tube .... acid flux, then heat the whole thing up and puddle in some silver solder then grind the ends to make them square. The end result is beautiful, but it still manages to pull out in time.
What were your results over the long run? BTW... . I'm the scooter clutch nut guy, we exchanged about a year ago on your "Scooter clutch nut removal - impossibly tight" video. It was great to see your name come up when I searched for this!
Hi Duckman!
Nice to talk to you again :)
The nipple was a permanent fix.
I believe, the key to success is cleanliness, and the acid paste.
The metal cables become etched, whilst being isolated from oxygen (during the heating process).
Thus, the solder can bond perfectly around each cable.
Add to this, the splaying of the cables.
This transfers 50% of the tension force, to the nipple body.
Consequently, only half the strain is acting on the bond.
... but everybody splays the cable strands.
So, I would say the key is the total degreasing, and the acid paste.
You'll know that it has worked, by seeing that the solder has run internally down the cable for a couple of millimeters.
This means that the nipple and the cable are 'one'.
@@EngineTuning I've got to make a clutch cable this week, the one I had snapped, but it was too long anyway. I will try making one again, a combination of my copper tube and the method as you describe! My little bike is fun, I've been working the bugs out of it. If you get bored, please check it out! ruclips.net/video/kwXUnxsXCrc/видео.html
the solder made my break cable bridle and caused it to break!
Hi Jared :)
I think that you said : the solder made your brake cable brittle, and caused it to break.
If this is correct...
Hmmm!
It is unlikely to be the solder as the prime cause of the break, because solder is not brittle.
There will be another cause, or a number of small errors that combined.
Did the new nipple move freely in the brake lever?
Did the cable run smoothly in the cable sheath?
The Devil is in the detail ;)
:)
@@EngineTuning no the new nipple did not move freely in the lever..I'm sure that would cause wear on the cable
Yes.
That is likely to be a major contributing factor.
... but don't forget to check that the cable runs smoothly.
The typical problem is, that the cable must bend through the headlight cluster, then pass to the rear or the front.
These bends can create a lot of friction.
If the cable is rusty, it is worse.
If the cable sheath is damaged (with a sharp bend) ... it may be beyond repair.
Good luck !
:)
Que ladilla!!!!
Hahaha!
Perhaps it seems like that, but it was a successful repair - it never failed again ;)