I find a 2:1 ratio of sulfate to chloride really brings out the hops in a lager beer. Also like to add in 4 oz of dextrose to dry it out for a clean finish. 34/70 @ 66* for a week (3 in the keg) works for me. Cheers!
Good one! Coincidentally, I've been doing a lot of research into building water profiles from scratch as of late. Am also curious about acidulated malt, so I took particular interest in this. Cheers!
Glad we hit the timing right for you. As I've said many times. Don't over complicate it. Calcium Chloride and Gypsum is 9 out of 10 times all you need to add to very soft water to get the flavor profiles you need. The rest is just unnecessary. Cheers! -Mike
Agreed on that. And it takes longer to "lager " it out with cold conditioning on the yeast. Also if you cold crash too quickly you can get weird esters in there as well. Cheers! -Mike
absoutely correct.....ive ruined a batch pitching it a bit warm........lager yeast is sensitive to temps and its all about fermenting it cold, and like john said if u can be patient with it like lager it long at v low temps, the results can be rewarding..........
Thanks for the suggestion on the wheat ale. We've done a few but we can certainly take new focus on that and maybe work in water profiles for it too. Cheers! -Mike
Cut the time in the FV by doing 8 days at 12C (54f?) and bump up to 19C (66f) for 2 days. I use 34/70 yeast and this makes a clean pilsner. The temp bump finishes it off and cleans the D out nicely. Also Mike might be needing more IBU as gelatin drops hop flavour out as well as yeast I've found. Try cold crash and keg, takes a few days longer to brighten but flavour better imo.
Agreed. Lagers don't need to take as long as historical homebrewing lore would have one believe. A solid pitch of active yeast will power through an average strength wort in the same time as an ale in my experience. Its the conditioning phase that takes marginally longer then say an ale does. Cheers! -Mike
Great vid dudes. So you liked the m-84 yeast. 2 non-rehydrated packs was enough for 5 gal? I just made a munich hellas with an OG slightly under 1050, and I calculated I needed one pack in a 1.5L starter, then split that in two, and used half for wort and half toward another 1L starter to get roughly 450b cells. The company said each dry pack only has about 45b cells when packaged.
Great video. I brewed a pilsner last night, which makes it even more interresting for me. I totally agree with the «30 ibu lower limit». I really pushed the envelope on this pilsner, though. 48 ibu. I had planned on using 70g (2,5 oz) of whole cone perle hop at 30 min, but at the last minutt I decided to up it to 100 g (3,5 oz), not considering the added ibu’s. But then again, I love bitterness. I’ve been told (by more experienced brewers then me) that hop additions shold be either longer then 30 min, (to develop the spice note), or last 5 min (floral/fruity aso), and that around 15 min is kind of a dead-zone for kettle addition. Whats your view on that?
Hi Petter - I brew lots of beers with a 15 minutes addition and pick up flavors in the beer. Definitely more floral/fruity at that point in the boil than spicy, though. - John
It is great to see these videos on more traditional styles. I am dead bored of videos of Neipas and Sours. I frankly don't understand how someone can even like a a gone off sour beer, but I digress. I have spend the past couple of years brewing German lagers, with mixed results. I have tried fermenting with Kveik, so called pseudo-lager yeasts, but I find that they always leave a signature flavour that is not part of the style. the Mangrove Jack yeasts have in general performed well. Please continue posting videos about traditional styles, I think they are highly educational, but please state the total IBU of the beers, as it is easier to get a picture of the bitterness of the beer when you state OG and FG.
Thanks for the comment - we'll start stating the calculated IBUs in our videos moving forward. Sadly, not tonight's video....I didn't see the comment until after we finished the video. - John
Great video, thanks for that. I had issues with attenuation with the M84, may I ask what your final attenuation was like? I never got higher than 69-70%.
cheers guys on another video........the beer looks great in the glass, maybe you should dial down on the acid a bit, cause if u have used the salts, u really wouldnt need so much acid to hit the mash ph.......and for the water profile for a lager, you can get away with less than 50 ppm Ca as per Martin Brungard............50ppm is not required for a pils type........cheers....hope to see u again..........
@@BrewDudes I am a fan of your videos really as I have learnt so much from them.......like that English brown ale Mike brewed a while back........thanks John for taking time to post these videos.........cheers
What do you guys think of using rain water from a tank for brewing with? Would you think there'd be any possible issues? I have a tank we use for garden water and im curious how it would go in a lager as a soft water source
I find a 2:1 ratio of sulfate to chloride really brings out the hops in a lager beer. Also like to add in 4 oz of dextrose to dry it out for a clean finish. 34/70 @ 66* for a week (3 in the keg) works for me. Cheers!
Yeah a little more sulfate probably makes sense in a beer like this. Cheers! -Mike
Great job in providing the details on what you did John, thanks!
Thank you!
Good one! Coincidentally, I've been doing a lot of research into building water profiles from scratch as of late. Am also curious about acidulated malt, so I took particular interest in this. Cheers!
Glad we hit the timing right for you. As I've said many times. Don't over complicate it. Calcium Chloride and Gypsum is 9 out of 10 times all you need to add to very soft water to get the flavor profiles you need. The rest is just unnecessary. Cheers! -Mike
@@BrewDudes Right on Mike. Cheers!
One thing I’ve noticed with lager yeast, if you pitch it warm you get the pear ester your talking about.
Agreed on that. And it takes longer to "lager " it out with cold conditioning on the yeast. Also if you cold crash too quickly you can get weird esters in there as well. Cheers! -Mike
absoutely correct.....ive ruined a batch pitching it a bit warm........lager yeast is sensitive to temps and its all about fermenting it cold, and like john said if u can be patient with it like lager it long at v low temps, the results can be rewarding..........
I love learning about Pilsners. Thanks Dudes! Would be interested in seeing an American Wheat Ale if you are looking for ideas. I enjoy the content.
Thanks for the suggestion on the wheat ale. We've done a few but we can certainly take new focus on that and maybe work in water profiles for it too. Cheers! -Mike
Do you use Bruin Water? It's a great spreadsheet for calculating water additions
I have used it but I typically use Brewer's Friend's calculator. - John
Cut the time in the FV by doing 8 days at 12C (54f?) and bump up to 19C (66f) for 2 days. I use 34/70 yeast and this makes a clean pilsner. The temp bump finishes it off and cleans the D out nicely. Also Mike might be needing more IBU as gelatin drops hop flavour out as well as yeast I've found. Try cold crash and keg, takes a few days longer to brighten but flavour better imo.
Agreed. Lagers don't need to take as long as historical homebrewing lore would have one believe. A solid pitch of active yeast will power through an average strength wort in the same time as an ale in my experience. Its the conditioning phase that takes marginally longer then say an ale does. Cheers! -Mike
Great vid dudes. So you liked the m-84 yeast. 2 non-rehydrated packs was enough for 5 gal? I just made a munich hellas with an OG slightly under 1050, and I calculated I needed one pack in a 1.5L starter, then split that in two, and used half for wort and half toward another 1L starter to get roughly 450b cells. The company said each dry pack only has about 45b cells when packaged.
I felt like the fermentation was good without a starter or rehydration. - John
Great video. I brewed a pilsner last night, which makes it even more interresting for me. I totally agree with the «30 ibu lower limit». I really pushed the envelope on this pilsner, though. 48 ibu. I had planned on using 70g (2,5 oz) of whole cone perle hop at 30 min, but at the last minutt I decided to up it to 100 g (3,5 oz), not considering the added ibu’s. But then again, I love bitterness.
I’ve been told (by more experienced brewers then me) that hop additions shold be either longer then 30 min, (to develop the spice note), or last 5 min (floral/fruity aso), and that around 15 min is kind of a dead-zone for kettle addition. Whats your view on that?
Hi Petter - I brew lots of beers with a 15 minutes addition and pick up flavors in the beer. Definitely more floral/fruity at that point in the boil than spicy, though. - John
It is great to see these videos on more traditional styles. I am dead bored of videos of Neipas and Sours. I frankly don't understand how someone can even like a a gone off sour beer, but I digress.
I have spend the past couple of years brewing German lagers, with mixed results. I have tried fermenting with Kveik, so called pseudo-lager yeasts, but I find that they always leave a signature flavour that is not part of the style. the Mangrove Jack yeasts have in general performed well.
Please continue posting videos about traditional styles, I think they are highly educational, but please state the total IBU of the beers, as it is easier to get a picture of the bitterness of the beer when you state OG and FG.
Thanks for the comment - we'll start stating the calculated IBUs in our videos moving forward. Sadly, not tonight's video....I didn't see the comment until after we finished the video. - John
Great video, thanks for that. I had issues with attenuation with the M84, may I ask what your final attenuation was like? I never got higher than 69-70%.
According to the Brewer's Friend ABV calculator, my apparent attenuation was 73% so a little higher but not by much. That's good to know. - John
cheers guys on another video........the beer looks great in the glass, maybe you should dial down on the acid a bit, cause if u have used the salts, u really wouldnt need so much acid to hit the mash ph.......and for the water profile for a lager, you can get away with less than 50 ppm Ca as per Martin Brungard............50ppm is not required for a pils type........cheers....hope to see u again..........
Thanks - yeah, that's some of thoughts I had about it too. Modifications will be made the next time I brew it. - John
@@BrewDudes I am a fan of your videos really as I have learnt so much from them.......like that English brown ale Mike brewed a while back........thanks John for taking time to post these videos.........cheers
M84, plsnermalt, Perle hops makes a great smash lager.
Nice. Yes we should do some SMASH lagers here and use that as the basis for the many traditional hops and noble hops out there. Cheers! -Mike
What do you guys think of using rain water from a tank for brewing with? Would you think there'd be any possible issues? I have a tank we use for garden water and im curious how it would go in a lager as a soft water source
I have never used rain water for beer brewing. It's interesting take to use it because of its perceived softness. - John
Mangrove Jack's make my favorite French Saison yeast, bar none. Really nice.
edit: i will add that I'm not a fan of their Cali Common lager yeast.
I didn't know they had a Saison strain and a French one at that. Interesting. Thanks. Cheers! -Mike
Great content as always. Do you guys accept fan beer submissions? (No video recognition required - just want to share the love!)
We do - send us a note via our email address: dudes at brew-dudes.com - John
Homosapiens?
Ha ha ha - are you?