Your videos are the perfect resource for anyone who needs to fix his own fridge in a hurry. I was about to replace something when I saw this video, installed a LED, got a clue and shortly thereafter solved the problem. Thank you, thank-you, thank-you!
5 blink (thermal cut out) fixed by cleaning PCB here. Applies to 101N0220 and likely other obsolete controllers with "Dialog" chip. The traces for the thermistor runs next to a 12/24V trace. At the interface between the heatsink PCB and main PCB a small speck of what I assume was flux tesidue appears to have caused a significant leakage current between these traces, leading to erroneously high temperature readings. The interface between the PCBs shows multiple signs of what appears to be flux residue, so I would expect this to be a possible cause for faults for others as well. The thermistor traces are near the center of the board. Other faults may possibly be caused by leakage current between other neighboring traces, but the temperature sensing is particularly susceptible due to it using high resistance values. The small unmarked SMD resistor-like component near the middle of the heat sink PCB appears to be an NTC thermistor, mine measured ~25kohm at 25 deg C. One side of it is supplied 5V through 100 ohm. The other side forms a voltage divider with a ~50kohm resistor to ground. In my case this side measured more than 5V, which did not make sense from my understanding of the circuit. Normal voltage should typically be in the range 3V-4V. At the chip input it measured 5.6V, indicating that it was capped by over voltage protection at the input pin. Word of warning for any inexperienced troubleshooter: The controller contains a boost converter capable of delivering ~50V, possibly more in case of malfunction of/tampering with the voltage monitoring feedback.
I want to run an extra fan of the same size as the factory fan for better ventilation in caravan and wire it to the factory fan. Will adding this cause the compressor to shut down by overloading the circuit? Thanks for a great video
Please kindly explain or share a link for different dc compressor capacity, like how many litres freezer for bd25, bd35, bd50, BD250GH, BD350GH and so on. Appreciate your feedback.
Hi Mohmmad - The Danfoss E50896 control box on our web site operates on both 12 and 24 Vdc. The control box will detect the voltage automatically. I hope this answers your question.
I checked the winding/housing short circuit - no short circuit. I measured the winding resistances and in each case I got 0.0Ω. What could have happened? The compressor is 12V DC. What should the voltages be on the three contacts connected to the compressor? Should they be measured after unplugging the plug or with the compressor plug connected?
Hello, I need help. The controller of my freezer seem to stop working, and it's difficult to have gotten one to replace the unit in my location/state. I saw some similar products on aliexpress and I want to find out if they'll work find on danfoss compressor, please.
My fridge comes up with a continuous flash. I’ve changed the temp sensor 3 times. If I take the fuse out for a minute then replace it will run for about a day. Each time I have to take out the fuse to reboot it. Any suggestions please
Thank you for these great videos. I have a 101N0212 controller, and I recently installed an LED light on it. My question is, is there a way to test the LED light itself if there are no errors with the controller? In other words, I want to test my installation itself, and that the type of LED light I installed would light up if/when there's an error. I was expecting it would flash, as most equipment lights do, when I turned it off and on, but it didn't. Is there a way to test the light installation itself? PS: I've tested the LED component before installation and it works. I want to test that the controller is driving the LED light properly.
If the LED lights with 12V it will work if the controller is faulty and should flash a number of times every 4 seconds. It is possible that the controller does not give a fault code - but this unusual. Make sure you have the thermostat linked out.
@@penguinrefrigerationlimite3531 sorry if I missed this somewhere, what is the right way to "link out" the thermostat? Can I simply disconnect the C and T wires from the compressor or do I need to join the wires to short them? Thanks!
When i connect the power to the controller it blows a 15amp fuse so what is your recommended steps i have db50 simular controller. I checked all the wires to my boat i even unplugged the controller and all the cables and put power directly to the controller and it blows 15amp fuse would you say the controller is bad?
Thank you for the video. I have a Waeco mini fridge in my truck. I'm not sure of the model, but it does have a code light on the inside. It shows a code 3, three flashes in four seconds. It started working for a short time, then it stopped again. In your professional opinion, would that be the Danfoss module that needs to be replaced? I'm in the US, and I'd like to get my fridge working again. Thank you for your reply in advance.
I have an alpicool compressor, but otherwise every connection/wiring is the same. Ive gone through the steps as you mention, ive shorted the thermostat C-T, and unplugged fan and only then do I get a very faint vibration in the compressor. But it just doesnt cool. This fridge/freezer has been running great for 1.5yrs and only lately i noticed it wasnt going below freezing, YET food still seemed to be frozen and ice had built up. I defrosted, and cleaned, but now I get no cooling at all. My question is: how do you know when its your compressor at fault, and can it be repaired for less than price of replacement unit (~$250AU). Thanks!
hey guys I have a dual zone fridge, the freezer works great -18 degrees but the fridge section has nothing..checked relays, compressor is running, fan is running just not cooling the fridge section? Any ideas?
Great informative video. I have a brand new never used Dometic CRX50 which is not powering up. I measure 12 or 24 volts at the terminals of the powersupply but as soon as I connect the terminals to the fridge, voltage drops to zero. I am thinking this is a defective SECOP unit - maybe with a dead short? Fan runs if I connect it directly to power supply. Any thoughts? Mike
Great video. Im currently converting my bush (argos) fridge from 240v mOns to 12v danfoss compressor, i have the compressor fitted and am just wiring up the control module. I dont have a fan connected to the compressor as it appears part of the fan is inside the refridgerator under the rear panel. Any suggestions her?
If you have a static condenser you don't need to wire the fan. The internal fan is to circulate the air in the fridge. You may need to replace this with a DC fan - if you wire to the small + and F it will run only when the compressor runs and must draw less than 1A
@@penguinrefrigerationlimite3531 yes, there appears to be a static condensor in the fridge. I have the condensor connectes to it. Now im at the wiring stage. The secop module is installed, so now i just need to check whatbi need to do with the wiring of the thermostat and fridge light. There is a manufactures connector block with 4 pins. The mains power cable is wired into the male side and from that also the power for the compressor. The female side has the fridge light and thermostat connected to it. If i keep this setup like this the thermostat and light would be powered from thw 12v battery and bypass the secop control module. Will this work correctly? If not will i need to remove all wires from the connector male and female and takemthe power directly.tonthe module first then connwct the thermostat and light directly into the module?
Thank you for your question and comments - If the LED does not flash it would normally mean the controller is working ok. However you must have the led + and - the right way round, the thermostat link wire connected and you will need to ensure you have 12v at the supply to the controller which must also be plugged into the compressor. If you can let us know the fault with your system with photos we will be able to help. Regards Steve
Hi Distance Rider normally that would signify that the controller is working ok. This is assuming that you have checked your power supply and all wire connections are in good condition and correct. also that you have linked out the thermostat. If you are unsure that the controller is working, you can send it to us for testing.
Good day, I have a Norcold (Thetford) N1090, the led is flashing 2 every 4 seconds, the fan is running but compressor not. I have done all the tests on the compressor resistance and voltage drop. My unit shuts down when the power is disconnected to the fan at the control but when I disconnect at the fan plug there is no change other than the fan stops, the compressor does still not start. Any ideas or help would be appreciated! Cheers.
Hi Paul, 2 flash can also be voltage drop on the newer 101N0212 controllers. I suspect that it is still a voltage drop issue - remember that you will only see this when the compressor tries to start. I recommend that you wire direct to a fully charged battery with minimum 2.5mm sq cables and crimped terminals to the battery and fridge
If you you get the same result then possible that controller is faulty - we can test this for you at Penguin, Havant UK. you can contact us through our website or email sales@penguinfrigo.co.uk
@@penguinrefrigerationlimite3531 thanks, I'll give that a try. If it doesn't work is it worth swapping out the fan. I am in Canada so difficult to send my controller but not impossible.
Hi great video - my danfoss fridge compressor comes on along with the fan but then the compressor stops after 5 seconds or so and it continually cycles like this. Sometimes it will stay on but no fault codes :( any tips?
Good afternoon Cactus Sailing, We would recommend that you carry out the fault diagnostic test including the linking out for the thermostat. If you have done this and have not found the cause, the next check is your voltage. The controller has system protection that will switch off the compressor if the voltage drops below a set level to ensure that your fridge does not drain your batteries completely. Please check your batteries and all wiring and connections to the control box. Penguin Ltd
I've got a waeco fridge CR65.. the compressor tries to start, checked air compressor windings all good, checked the thermostat by bridging it and seems to be ok.. thanks
I have a 3 years old waeco CRX50 on 12v. It has a BD35 compressor. I have no power getting to fridge so cannot switch on. I have 13.2v at the controller terminals. power is going to fan and compressor but nothing starting. I connected a multimeter to the diagnostic terminal and power fluctuates. I have no led diagnostic but could I count the fluctuations on the multimetre as error codes? Is it as simple matter that the controller is defective?
Hi, really sorry but we cannot advise on the specifics of the CRX50. If you put power to the negative and positive and bridge the C&T on the compressor and it all runs, then the issue is with the digital controls of the CRX50 and you would need to speak to Dometic about replacement parts.
@@zebelliott5780 Hi Zeb I have bridged the C&T and the compressor and fan came on but I have no diagnostic led to fault check. Also I cannot seem to establish the location of the thermostat but I am guessing it is built into the digital display. Cannot find anywhere online on how to disassemble in order to find the part number
This is a great tutorial, but my compressor is still not running at 12V. It only works with 24V. What do I need to do for it to run at 12v?? Im getting the code 1 fault when i try to run it at 12V
Good evening, please, I try for several days to put my compressor DC on, but it does not start! What to do? a 12V compressor starts just with the Battery
I had that problem, N0220 controller with Dialog chip. In my case what looked like flux residue caused a weak connection between 12v and the thermistor sense trace. Check for any dark specks between the solder pads at the bottom of the heat sink PCB. The thermistor traces are near the middle of the board.
If it runs non stop it will either be a lack of gas so it never reaches temperature, or if it is freezing the plate, but not turning off then the thermostat is faulty
if the light blinks 2 times but fan is working but compressor is not, does that mean its the compressor, i took it out and directly tried powering it but it dint do nothing?
Make sure that you have the thermostat linked out and LED is wired correctly to the small + and D. If everything is correct it is possible that the controller is faulty and not giving an error code - but this is very unusual
Sorry, not sure I understand your question. The LED test will work on either 12V or 24V systems and assuming compressor will not start you should get a fault code result as long as the battery is not completely dead!
Elementary watson,but fault 4 js when tricksters come jn and bypass that stupid board,kickstart compressor ,measure amperage, bla bla bla,this is not a tutorial its a tv , commercial
![Isotherm Fridge - Step by Step Installation | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ [Boat Work]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qKpr1nMTt6A/mqdefault.jpg)
![Isotherm Fridge - Step by Step Installation | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ [Boat Work]](/img/tr.png)
Your videos are the perfect resource for anyone who needs to fix his own fridge in a hurry. I was about to replace something when I saw this video, installed a LED, got a clue and shortly thereafter solved the problem. Thank you, thank-you, thank-you!
5 blink (thermal cut out) fixed by cleaning PCB here. Applies to 101N0220 and likely other obsolete controllers with "Dialog" chip. The traces for the thermistor runs next to a 12/24V trace. At the interface between the heatsink PCB and main PCB a small speck of what I assume was flux tesidue appears to have caused a significant leakage current between these traces, leading to erroneously high temperature readings. The interface between the PCBs shows multiple signs of what appears to be flux residue, so I would expect this to be a possible cause for faults for others as well. The thermistor traces are near the center of the board. Other faults may possibly be caused by leakage current between other neighboring traces, but the temperature sensing is particularly susceptible due to it using high resistance values.
The small unmarked SMD resistor-like component near the middle of the heat sink PCB appears to be an NTC thermistor, mine measured ~25kohm at 25 deg C. One side of it is supplied 5V through 100 ohm. The other side forms a voltage divider with a ~50kohm resistor to ground. In my case this side measured more than 5V, which did not make sense from my understanding of the circuit. Normal voltage should typically be in the range 3V-4V. At the chip input it measured 5.6V, indicating that it was capped by over voltage protection at the input pin.
Word of warning for any inexperienced troubleshooter: The controller contains a boost converter capable of delivering ~50V, possibly more in case of malfunction of/tampering with the voltage monitoring feedback.
I want to run an extra fan of the same size as the factory fan for better ventilation in caravan and wire it to the factory fan. Will adding this cause the compressor to shut down by overloading the circuit? Thanks for a great video
Run a separate line,this pc board jts crap alreadh with one fan,and use an ambient tstat to turn fan on and off
Please kindly explain or share a link for different dc compressor capacity, like how many litres freezer for bd25, bd35, bd50, BD250GH, BD350GH and so on.
Appreciate your feedback.
Hi Mohmmad - The Danfoss E50896 control box on our web site operates on both 12 and 24 Vdc. The control box will detect the voltage automatically. I hope this answers your question.
Buenas noches como puedo saber si está en corto el motor
Tengo un motor similar pero no enciende
I have 102N4031 24v control unit the problem is dont no the name of transistor that is burning please help me thanks
Hi Jose - The capillary is 2.5 mm
I checked the winding/housing short circuit - no short circuit. I measured the winding resistances and in each case I got 0.0Ω. What could have happened?
The compressor is 12V DC. What should the voltages be on the three contacts connected to the compressor? Should they be measured after unplugging the plug or with the compressor plug connected?
Hello, I need help.
The controller of my freezer seem to stop working, and it's difficult to have gotten one to replace the unit in my location/state. I saw some similar products on aliexpress and I want to find out if they'll work find on danfoss compressor, please.
My fridge comes up with a continuous flash. I’ve changed the temp sensor 3 times. If I take the fuse out for a minute then replace it will run for about a day. Each time I have to take out the fuse to reboot it.
Any suggestions please
Thank you for these great videos. I have a 101N0212 controller, and I recently installed an LED light on it. My question is, is there a way to test the LED light itself if there are no errors with the controller? In other words, I want to test my installation itself, and that the type of LED light I installed would light up if/when there's an error. I was expecting it would flash, as most equipment lights do, when I turned it off and on, but it didn't. Is there a way to test the light installation itself? PS: I've tested the LED component before installation and it works. I want to test that the controller is driving the LED light properly.
If the LED lights with 12V it will work if the controller is faulty and should flash a number of times every 4 seconds. It is possible that the controller does not give a fault code - but this unusual. Make sure you have the thermostat linked out.
@@penguinrefrigerationlimite3531 sorry if I missed this somewhere, what is the right way to "link out" the thermostat? Can I simply disconnect the C and T wires from the compressor or do I need to join the wires to short them? Thanks!
When i connect the power to the controller it blows a 15amp fuse so what is your recommended steps i have db50 simular controller. I checked all the wires to my boat i even unplugged the controller and all the cables and put power directly to the controller and it blows 15amp fuse would you say the controller is bad?
Thank you for the video.
I have a Waeco mini fridge in my truck.
I'm not sure of the model, but it does have a code light on the inside. It shows a code 3, three flashes in four seconds.
It started working for a short time, then it stopped again.
In your professional opinion, would that be the Danfoss module that needs to be replaced?
I'm in the US, and I'd like to get my fridge working again.
Thank you for your reply in advance.
Sir,
good day
is thre replacement part of secop fridge controller 101n2602?
i have searched in internet's i didn't found
I have an alpicool compressor, but otherwise every connection/wiring is the same. Ive gone through the steps as you mention, ive shorted the thermostat C-T, and unplugged fan and only then do I get a very faint vibration in the compressor. But it just doesnt cool. This fridge/freezer has been running great for 1.5yrs and only lately i noticed it wasnt going below freezing, YET food still seemed to be frozen and ice had built up. I defrosted, and cleaned, but now I get no cooling at all. My question is: how do you know when its your compressor at fault, and can it be repaired for less than price of replacement unit (~$250AU). Thanks!
hey guys I have a dual zone fridge, the freezer works great -18 degrees but the fridge section has nothing..checked relays, compressor is running, fan is running just not cooling the fridge section? Any ideas?
Great informative video. I have a brand new never used Dometic CRX50 which is not powering up. I measure 12 or 24 volts at the terminals of the powersupply but as soon as I connect the terminals to the fridge, voltage drops to zero. I am thinking this is a defective SECOP unit - maybe with a dead short? Fan runs if I connect it directly to power supply. Any thoughts? Mike
Have you fixed it? I'm having a similar issue.
Have either of you figured it out yet? I'm having similar issue with everchill 12v refrigerator
i had the load dump protection. can i use without that
Hello ! If I check the resistance of my compressor DC, I have the same values. Is normal?
Resistance C,R, and S
Great video. Im currently converting my bush (argos) fridge from 240v mOns to 12v danfoss compressor, i have the compressor fitted and am just wiring up the control module. I dont have a fan connected to the compressor as it appears part of the fan is inside the refridgerator under the rear panel. Any suggestions her?
If you have a static condenser you don't need to wire the fan. The internal fan is to circulate the air in the fridge. You may need to replace this with a DC fan - if you wire to the small + and F it will run only when the compressor runs and must draw less than 1A
@@penguinrefrigerationlimite3531 yes, there appears to be a static condensor in the fridge. I have the condensor connectes to it. Now im at the wiring stage. The secop module is installed, so now i just need to check whatbi need to do with the wiring of the thermostat and fridge light. There is a manufactures connector block with 4 pins. The mains power cable is wired into the male side and from that also the power for the compressor. The female side has the fridge light and thermostat connected to it. If i keep this setup like this the thermostat and light would be powered from thw 12v battery and bypass the secop control module. Will this work correctly? If not will i need to remove all wires from the connector male and female and takemthe power directly.tonthe module first then connwct the thermostat and light directly into the module?
Great Video! If the LED does not flick at all when testing what does that signify?
Thank you for your question and comments - If the LED does not flash it would normally mean the controller is working ok. However you must have the led + and - the right way round, the thermostat link wire connected and you will need to ensure you have 12v at the supply to the controller which must also be plugged into the compressor. If you can let us know the fault with your system with photos we will be able to help. Regards Steve
Hi Distance Rider normally that would signify that the controller is working ok. This is assuming that you have checked your power supply and all wire connections are in good condition and correct. also that you have linked out the thermostat. If you are unsure that the controller is working, you can send it to us for testing.
Good day, I have a Norcold (Thetford) N1090, the led is flashing 2 every 4 seconds, the fan is running but compressor not. I have done all the tests on the compressor resistance and voltage drop. My unit shuts down when the power is disconnected to the fan at the control but when I disconnect at the fan plug there is no change other than the fan stops, the compressor does still not start.
Any ideas or help would be appreciated! Cheers.
Hi Paul, 2 flash can also be voltage drop on the newer 101N0212 controllers. I suspect that it is still a voltage drop issue - remember that you will only see this when the compressor tries to start. I recommend that you wire direct to a fully charged battery with minimum 2.5mm sq cables and crimped terminals to the battery and fridge
If you you get the same result then possible that controller is faulty - we can test this for you at Penguin, Havant UK. you can contact us through our website or email sales@penguinfrigo.co.uk
@@penguinrefrigerationlimite3531 thanks, I'll give that a try. If it doesn't work is it worth swapping out the fan. I am in Canada so difficult to send my controller but not impossible.
Hola soy de Argentina, como puedo conseguir plaquetas electronicas del danfoss D35? O reparar las que tengo sin funcionar? Gracias
Hi great video - my danfoss fridge compressor comes on along with the fan but then the compressor stops after 5 seconds or so and it continually cycles like this. Sometimes it will stay on but no fault codes :( any tips?
Good afternoon Cactus Sailing, We would recommend that you carry out the fault diagnostic test including the linking out for the thermostat. If you have done this and have not found the cause, the next check is your voltage. The controller has system protection that will switch off the compressor if the voltage drops below a set level to ensure that your fridge does not drain your batteries completely. Please check your batteries and all wiring and connections to the control box. Penguin Ltd
Not proper volt 25.5
ruclips.net/user/shortsTQ7t1sT8Fz8
I've got a waeco fridge CR65.. the compressor tries to start, checked air compressor windings all good, checked the thermostat by bridging it and seems to be ok.. thanks
my compressor is on but fridge is not getting cold. that could only mean its a blockage or no gas YES ???
I have a 3 years old waeco CRX50 on 12v. It has a BD35 compressor. I have no power getting to fridge so cannot switch on. I have 13.2v at the controller terminals. power is going to fan and compressor but nothing starting. I connected a multimeter to the diagnostic terminal and power fluctuates. I have no led diagnostic but could I count the fluctuations on the multimetre as error codes? Is it as simple matter that the controller is defective?
Hi, really sorry but we cannot advise on the specifics of the CRX50. If you put power to the negative and positive and bridge the C&T on the compressor and it all runs, then the issue is with the digital controls of the CRX50 and you would need to speak to Dometic about replacement parts.
@@zebelliott5780 Hi Zeb I have bridged the C&T and the compressor and fan came on but I have no diagnostic led to fault check. Also I cannot seem to establish the location of the thermostat but I am guessing it is built into the digital display. Cannot find anywhere online on how to disassemble in order to find the part number
This is a great tutorial, but my compressor is still not running at 12V. It only works with 24V. What do I need to do for it to run at 12v??
Im getting the code 1 fault when i try to run it at 12V
Please phone or email Pengiuin Refrigeration and we will assist you further.
@@stevelongmore2349that was an answer to post so other dys could have taken note of it.
Great tutorial video on simple fault finding please keep videos like this coming
Thank you sillychilly we are planning to make more videos, if you have any specific areas you believe we should cover please let us know.
What problem
Здраствуйте у вас есть лишний блок управление компрессора и сколько он будет стоить.
Good evening, please, I try for several days to put my compressor DC on, but it does not start! What to do? a 12V compressor starts just with the Battery
ruclips.net/user/shortsTQ7t1sT8Fz8
Can I connect direct without the controller box
Hi Afande, no, a controller must be used with a compressor.
What if I connect it using inverter from a DC battery ??
Not working without control
there is no light on power is coming to load dump protection .
What is 6 flashes mean?
6 flashes indicates failure of the thermostat. Please email us if you are looking to replace the faulty part.
Hi i have error code 5 blinks , to high temp . How can i solve this problem ? Please
I had that problem, N0220 controller with Dialog chip. In my case what looked like flux residue caused a weak connection between 12v and the thermistor sense trace. Check for any dark specks between the solder pads at the bottom of the heat sink PCB. The thermistor traces are near the middle of the board.
my bd35 compressor runs non stop what could be the cause its a 12v version
If it runs non stop it will either be a lack of gas so it never reaches temperature, or if it is freezing the plate, but not turning off then the thermostat is faulty
if the light blinks 2 times but fan is working but compressor is not, does that mean its the compressor, i took it out and directly tried powering it but it dint do nothing?
You don't have full 25.5 volt
ruclips.net/user/shortsTQ7t1sT8Fz8
Please.what ia the capillary number you use?
0.36
ruclips.net/user/shortsTQ7t1sT8Fz8
@@mohmmadnaveedbd35fdccompre3 and the longitud? Thank you.
I know that how can work direct 24 volt dc compresor
Brilliant video thank you!
Thank you Martin and Gill we are planning more videos for the future, glad you liked them.
Thank you for these killer videos. I did break down laughing though when you said "call a refrigeration engineer". Here we call them "thieves".
Hi Mike thanks for the video review. As they are so popular, we are planning more self help videos for the future.
Led Light not turn on and refrigerator not working
Make sure that you have the thermostat linked out and LED is wired correctly to the small + and D.
If everything is correct it is possible that the controller is faulty and not giving an error code - but this is very unusual
give me battery capacity detaits
Sorry, not sure I understand your question. The LED test will work on either 12V or 24V systems and assuming compressor will not start you should get a fault code result as long as the battery is not completely dead!
THANK YOU DEAR
They coud not install led 0.001 cents ja ja ja...
Thanks great
Elementary watson,but fault 4 js when tricksters come jn and bypass that stupid board,kickstart compressor ,measure amperage, bla bla bla,this is not a tutorial its a tv , commercial
Und Es hatte keiner von euch die Schöne Blonde Kamerafrau auf der Kühlschrank Tür gesehen ?
🧘🏽♂️