Wanna learn how to fix game consoles? Check out my online courses: www.gameconsolerepairschool.com/ Also, anyone know what I could replace that capacitor with?
The coil whine is usually produced by the coils themselves and not the capacitor. When current gets passed through the coil, it vibrates and makes that sound. I've managed to fix the same problem (not on a PS5) by adding some thermal glue to the coil and the components around it (in this case the capacitors), gluing them together. Try this if you can, you can use any cheap thermal glue. By gluing both components, the vibrations should be dampened. Thermal glue on coils is frequently used on TV's to reduce the noise.
It could be a problem on hz on the power lines, the console works with 50/60 hz but normally 60hz it is never 220v, it could be near 240v+ in your power lines, people should check their home and check their lines dont have noice or a short circuit witch the switch dont jump, i know sometimes it happen cause i live with a generator and sometimes when the engine speed up the hertz go up and and as an example the power suply of one of my mates here sound loud and work hard, maybe it is that, that capacitor is working to much.
@@Hack3rPT Yes. I posted a picture just above you showcasing what must be done. BTW could you tell me about that thermal glue? Maybe a link? I want to do that on my PS4 Pro some day.
The buzzing in a foil capacitor is down to electrostriction - which is movement of the insulating films caused by the electric field as it passes through the capacitor. It is harmless, apart from being annoying. If you wanted to reduce this buzz, you could replace your foil capacitor with one rated for a much higher voltage. A capacitor rated for a higher voltage will have thicker insulating films - which will need a higher force (voltage) to make them buzz. A higher rated film capacitor should, therefore, be quieter compared to a lower rated one capacitor under the same voltage conditions.
@@TheMcdrewb He sure does,mines dont whine but what if it does it later down the line,noises annoy me. I made sure i have controls on all 8 fans in my pc case too,lol
@@TriWaZe Generally components are chosen according to what's appropriate for the electrical properties of a given circuit. The minimum voltages for capacitors is determined and then likely increased by a given percentage to guarantee that the part will last. Issues like coil whine are probably far down the priority list and somewhat difficult to anticipate. It's not so much that Sony skimped out on a part, rather, they followed standard practices for good circuit design but didn't anticipate this issue in advance and they'll likely make a change in a future revision.
As you probably know a certain level of "coil whine" is inevitable in electronic systems. This is simply a function of current passing through the component causing vibrations. To negate coil whine in foil capacitors (or any other wound component for that matter) manufacturers have to roll the materials extremely tight with very precise tolerances, otherwise any non-uniformity between the coil and dielectric layers will cause an audible resonance. My guess is the supplier Sony is using for this particular capacitor is either having a QC issue or for cost reasons isn't manufacturing with extremely tight tolerances. (I'm personally leaning towards the latter one). As for the fix, coil whine will sometimes just go away on its own once the device has "broken in" from use. If it doesn't you could try to encase the component in a potting material (maybe even hot glue) to dampen the noise, but I'm not sure if there is enough clearance between the surrounding components to do that. The only other option would be to replace the capacitor with a difference batch number to see if the next batch just happened to be manufactured a bit tighter.
@@Tronicsfix Sadly, I'm not 100% sure which manufacturer would necessarily be better in this case. Even though there are only a handful of these suppliers in the world and I'm not familiar with their reputations per se. Corsair claims they make one of the quiest PSUs for PCs on the market and they use HJC components. What I don't know is if Corsair is simply paying for a higher level of QC/tolerance levels, or if HJC is actually better at manufacturing these particular components. Edit: I'm curious....did you happen to notice a coil whine in your PS4 pro with this same capacitor?
@@MikeJones__Who It's a 3 cent bin component in a ware house in China. He probably got one that the half deaf QC guy couldn't hear and it got passed as good to go.
@@Laugh1ngboy I would honestly be surprised if there was a "guy" involved in the process at all. Even in China electronics manufacturing is highly automated.
It’s very interesting what you are saying. Also the video show that the component is shared with PS4 Pro. My PS4 Pro (launch edition) has no coil whine but my PS5 do and both are connected to the same power regulator. Maybe quality control is a big factor here?
First of all, coil whine doesn't decrease the lifespan of the component or the console, it doesn't make PS5 inferior to Xbox series X, it doesn't have any effect on anything other than being a little annoying. Now, Coil whine happens cuz a current in a conductor creates a magnetic field, and if the conductor and the current are bunched up like in a coil, each fraction of the conductor can pull on or push away other fractions. If there's an AC current flowing through the conductor, the pulling and pushing happen alternatingly and at the same frequency as the current. Alternating pulling and pushing means sound, and higher frequency AC current means higher pitched sound, or whine. That's why coil whine gets worse when there's a heavy load on the system when the frequency gets higher than base clock.
The best was to fix coil whine from the perspective of a science student as myself would just be to press the coils tighter together. If you could put enough pressure on the film capacitor using a binder clip or something of the sort, the sound would get muffled enough to the point of not being audible. This is just an idea though, I can't guarantee it won't add extra complications or even work at all
@ Vibudh Thanks for a great explanation. I have a follow up question: How come just some caps "whine"? Sometimes you have two caps that are exactly the same but one whines but not the other. This have happened to me several times when recaping old computers.
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It's a 1uF 10% tolerance 310V AC X2 capacitor made by Surge Components. I'd try replacing with a similar rated one from one of the more famous capacitor brands. Maybe something from the Kemet F681 or Vishay MKP339 series.
@@Tronicsfix There's no guarantees just the hope that a better brand will be better manufactured. I've used both brands in SMPS designs and not had any problems. Getting the epoxy fill soft enough so it doesn't transmit noise to the case but hard enough to keep moisture out and protect the foil is difficult.
I know in the past, most of this noise in switching power supplies is from the actual inductor coils themselves. The company I work for we always secure inductors with epoxy, because they actually physically vibrate, especially in a switching power supply. You can use hot glue or epoxy to secure the base of them to the PCB
@@Tronicsfix I have heard that brand new capacitors of certain make up like foil types can be noisy and actually have a "break in" period and get quieter, but I'm not an EE, I'm a SW Engineer, but hear my coworkers talk about this in the past. haha Any EE can chime in. Edit: If this is true, I wonder if Sony up against impossible shipping demand, did not do a proper Burn-in test to mitigate this issue, and just is shipping them out as fast as possible.
So the blue component he pulled off was an induction coil, not a capacitor? It would actually make sense because it looked nothing like a capacitor on the inside.
Protip for hobbyists: He's not joking around when he says not to disassemble power supplies. Capacitors store charge, so it's possible to shock yourself even if the power supply is turned off and unplugged. I'm curious to know if the "coil whine" capacitor you have there is COTS (Commercial off-the-shelf) anywhere, or has an equivalent it can be replaced with. Is the main problem that all of them whine like that, or is the one you removed simply defective and it can be replaced?
You were to late man. Those things hurt like hell. (Took apart a pc power supply. And accidentally touched the 400v capacitor. (It luckly was discharged a bit, but it hurts like hell)
@@sandyfordd1843 and learn from your mistakes, i didn't. I actually one time had 230v wall power in my hands. That did hurt too. (I always wear rubber shoes so i wasnt grounded, and i touched with one hand again)
I don't think it's defective. I think that's just a noise that these caps make. I'm hoping someone much smarter than me comments and lets me know something that might work in its place.
Nah, they're just somewhat bigger than the others, really large electrolytic capacitors, you don't solder those to the PCB, you bolt them. And the huge oil filled ones have filler caps so you can top up the oil level.
He was board, nothing is wrong the the ps5, he woke up I got an idea for a video. I love this channel you get down and dirty with the consoles and fix the problems and show us solutions.
Thanks for this video finally someone who isn't claiming the noise is from the fan. Been trying to explain this to many people its simply a Quality control issue & even Sonys CS recognised this on the phone before fan boys attack me. Plus isn't it funny how every single reviewer was sent a dead silent console 🤔 my guess they will source the same parts once they are widely available till then they will lose money by having to replace these models
I do wonder will this even be fixed PS4 slims and pros had same sorta issue but I feel where just drained out by the fan, this time Sony put such an emphasis on reducing fan noise they just forgot about this, insanely dumb imo
@@joshohanlon1085 the center piece of my Nidec fan wobbles too, adds more pointless vibration. PS4 games are just about bearable but PS5 games is when the buzzing & fan noise come alive unbearably
I didn't hear any coil whine or noises when I play the game during at night. Only the sound of disc spinning at the start and later it will be super quite.
I just needed this video to confirm that the sound my PS5 was making was the harmless coild whine I'd been hearing about. So thanks, because this video did exactly that for me
Maybe its just the frequentie or harmonics which is resulting with eddi currents a bussing noise. Same with transformers and al coil like components. Just energize a relai it wil when old buzz because the coil windings are vibrating and slowly getting more space to vibrate.
I don't know why manufacturer cheap out on this stuff, I mean as components gets more demanding on higher frequency and power draw they should stop gimping out on the important parts, were not at the pentium stage anymore where those sounds were considered normal, we want just no noise (or at best, only fan noise) to be heard.
I HATE the coil whine on my ps5. It sounds like dust is caught somewhere I couldn’t reach. Sucks that there’s no quick fix, but I’m happy to know it’s just an annoying noise and not a real malfunction. Thanks for trying!
My pro had a whine and loud fan so i cleaned the heatsink and it went back to being silent... cleaning the fan alone didn’t do anything...so it could be the ps5 heatsink as the air goes through it before it exits
The reason the PS5 has coil whine is due to Sony neglecting to use a little silicone in the power supply. Most PSUs (incl the XSX) have this grey or white goop over the components to mitigate the vibrations and noise. A little RTV Silicone (or possibly hot glue) will work. Could you test this out for us?
@Christian Longo Why don't you just search the problems up? Do you really think people will lie about their console being loud? Just on RUclips alone you'll see a ton of videos of people showing their loud PS5s. Edit: Type in "Series X coil whine" and you'll see one video of the series X and the rest will be the ps5!
@@aki-sid Is this like peoples self esteem so hurt they can’t get a ps5 that they gotta try and make up crap about it lol. My ps5 literally is quiet as a mouse only makes any noise when installing games/updates. stop talking out of your ass guy.
smart way is discharging them through a beefy resistor. quick 'n dirty way is to just bridge the terminals with something like a screwdriver ~ not recommended though lol
I use a 220v common household led light (my country uses 220v) with 2 wires and touch the legs of the cap with them. Sometimes the light turns on for a fraction of a second.
@@Tronicsfix those pliers are just shorting the caps, which means all the discharging happens internally, within the cap, creating heat and whatnot, which isn't great for it but probably won't kill it if you only do it a few times not to mention the ablation at the surface of your pliers or the legs of the caps from the spark discharge lol
@@franciz2 that's a probably a pretty good way of going about it! a regular incandescent light would work just as well probably, they're literally just plain resistors
I have started to want to learn to fix things like this. All because I watch you fix stuff. You sir are great at what you do and a great person. Now it's time to save up for some tools.
The nice thing about some PSUs is you can hear how the sound changes as load changes. This caps are SEALED because humidity kill them. We had SERIOUS issues with this kind of caps at work, once some humidity gets in, it starts to eat the metalization until the cap fails completly. You can replace the cap with same VALUE and VOLTAGE rating and pick another brand. Process are different from brand to Brand. But whine and ticking noise teng to come from the power transformer or PFC coils. The new green-ish SMPSUs can get really anoying when "idling" to lower the consumption down to nothing, but they change the freq, waveform and period, like they strt to use some little burst of switching to keep the ouput cap charge to value and then go sleep and them again, making this thicking thing. Under load, they are not longer in that mode. They get worse on PFC ones .... they are extremely efficient ... but ...
I remember being one of a few subscribers of this channel. I was mindlessly watching this sincere person fixing things that I didnt even own only because I just liked watching him. Now almost 800k subscribers. Congrats and I am very happy for your successful channel!!! Happy New Year!
Coil whine is generally high frequency passing through and creating a vibration which in return makes noise. Before the easiest way was to put hot glue over the components to minimise vibration, not sure if it still is though
Funny since November i was believing to have a bad ps5 fan but now i took out the fan again, turned the ps5 on and started a game and still got the same noise but from the bottom. Pretty sure it is the same condenser. DAMN TRONICS FIX
When applying AC voltage to a metal film capacitor, buzzing is produced in film capacitors due to the mechanical vibration of the films due to the Coulomb force existing between electrodes of opposite polarity. This is completely normal of metal film capacitors and does not cause any issues in terms of reliability or longevity. If you examine the buzz in more detail, it's probably oscillating at around 60Hz which matches the NA AC waveform. There's no easy fix to my knowledge without a good understanding of the circuit. You could try moving to a higher voltage metal film capacitor but keep the other properties the same. You could also try to move to a teflon (instead of polypropylene) capacitor with similar values as well (not electrolytic, tantalums, or mylar though). Lastly, you could look to reduce the noise by adding a ferrite bead to filter out the high frequency noise, but once again it would take knowledge of the circuit to understand the impact.
Hi. These are called “film capacitors”. They’re usually installed 2 in parallel like on this board to reduce the electromagnetic effect which can cause the resonate sound you’re experiencing. But in your case you should focus on the two RF-chokes (green circle inductors). Cover these in hot glue or silicon and this will stop the ringing. Common problem in plasma TVs as well.
Aluminum electrolytic capacitors are rolled up with an electrolyte soaked paper. That paper can actually absorb the mechanical resonance that can create noise. This "plastic film" can vibrate with certain frequencies. Corsair has taken extra measures to make sure these capacitors do not make any noise by implementing additional quality control measures when sourcing components to build our power supplies. - - from Corsair blog
it is normal for any Electronic to have coil whine, specialy power supplies and graphics cards. it is just annoying, i remember my ps4 pro used to whine a lot during rise of the tomb raider but not other games
Its just annoying and nothing that indicates an error. Unfortunately the sound is not always the same and can be louder,quiter or have a different pitch than other consoles even if its the same model.
so annoying you need head phones to play any game in 60 FPS on PS5. PS4 games are pretty quite though. only the ps5 games seem to cause this issue in 60 FPS mode. which sucks
Having issues with my PS5 that was made in Aug 2020. I'd return this already to the retail store, then exchange for another, but with the current supply of PS5s think I'll just go through Sony in few months from now and have them replace it.
Just contact Sony and if they accept your issues as being faults, they’ll tell you to send it to them. They’ll then send you a replacement within a few days.
I heard of some people receiving it within the same week, and others a whole month, I would just return mine since there's not much I would be missing out and pray I get lucky
@@one_up907 i am getting a high pitched noise that is audible in a quiet room about 5 feet away from PS5. It is most likely the PSU. When current passes through the copper wound coils in the PSU, it causes them to vibrate. The slight vibration is making the high pitched noise. Apparently Sony skipped the glue/tarnish step on the coils of some of their PS5s.
I've told everyone that I sold a PS5/Series X to contact me directly if they have any warranty issues and I would contact Sony/MS directly on their behalf. There are some nice scalpers out there ;)
A valid receipt is not require for Sony warranty. You just need to enter’s console serial numbers and stats the problem. All console come with 12months warranty. Postage label is free as well. You should try it :)
I have nothing against scalpers to be honest. I respect the hustle. Now if you buy from them I don't want anything to do you with you, you're so stupid it's probably dangerous to be around you.
@ionesito . They don't need to be stupid, they are just willing to pay a higher amount then you for the console. They are just higher on the demand curve than you are. They wouldn't likely have to pay the amount they are if scalpers didn't shift the supply curve. I don't respect the hustle of scalpers. They put an unnecessary pressure on the market.
Switching PSU always make some noise. Very high pitched and many people don't have the hearing to notice it. For me it is very handy tool for a quick diagnosis in a no power case. If the PSU is singing it's usually not the cause of a no power issue. To make a switching PSU quieter some put hot glue or other kinds of rubbery kit on suspected components to reduce the noise/vibration. In this case of a capacitor vibrating on the inside of its casing that might not help. You can always revert back to an old fashioned non switching PSU with a transformer.
I noticed that the PS4 PRO`s (no matter which model!) also do this and has this strange noise. I replaced my PS4 PRO consoles in six times (warranty) and all of them did this sound. The first time I thought that the fan doing this but when I played with Gravel (auto game) I noticed it`s doing this. It`s changing the strange sound level when the screen has changed. (Zoltan from Hungary)
The foam looking glue you see on some motherboards holding or insulating components can be used to change the frequency that these capacitors make noise at. Used this method to hook two side by side capacitors on a noisy power supply together and eliminated the noise. Also longer or shorter legs on the caps can help, typically longer. Good luck and great videos.
EEV blog made a video years ago about coil whine in the backlight driver of a multimeter. But it was actually a capacitor. The problem is the dielectric sheet has some piezoelectric properties making it vibrate. If the layers are too loose the electrostatic forces can also make it buzz
Could you not just try that ps4 cap you had in there - just to see if the sound goes away - then you know for sure its the cap and not some other component causing the cap to resonate...
The noise probably comes from subtle vibrations in the cap. Try solder it back on and then use some epoxy or hotglue all around the cap to reduce vibration. The compound should be as stiff as possible.
The coil whine is produced by the coils themselves and not the capacitor. When current gets passed through the coil, it vibrates and makes that sound. I've managed to fix the same problem (not on a PS5) by adding some thermal glue to the coil and the components around it (in this case the capacitors), gluing them together. Try this if you can, you can use any cheap thermal glue. By gluing both components, the vibrations should be dampened. Thermal glue on coils is frequently used on TV's to reduce the noise.
I once opened a power supply on a ps4 pro and then accidentally touched several metal pieces poking out, I shocked myself, my hand had lots of little blisters and it smelt like I cooked my skin. Please don’t try it at home guys!😂
It could be fixed by reading a datasheet to those capacitors. Effect is caused by ampere force that changing by current passing through that think, sometimes in high power systems it is called a striking current because it can bend terminals, busses and so on. Just imagine thousands of amperes in 20 cm close to each other. Just read the datasheet to those caps, there should be ESR, temperature code like X5R, X7R, COG and so on, plus you will find a bunch of graphs showing impedance vs Frequency. Capacitors should be selected in SMPS by their frequency and amount of ripple current. Just look at any other looking like that with a greater max current through capacitor. If there is nothing: less ESR/ESL and try to find the same Z vs Freq behaviour. I don't know switching frequency exactly at this PSU, But you can measure that on secondary side by oscilloscope: just put in AC coupling mode a.k.a. only AC passes thrgough. Measure by using a ground spring, try to do it without crocodiles because noise would distort measurement and you would see what is not actually happens at the measurement points. So, measure the frequency and then add a better capacitor: I Recommend same capacitance, MLCC same voltage or if you choose larger by 3-4 steps you would get less ESR by sure by saving 1 cent... At least same Capacitance and voltage, temperature coefficient should be X5R, C0G or X7R(worst case) and just find out with less ESR. You can find parameters at digikey or mauser. Just find a part number and order it somewhere cheaper, for example on LCSC
Hi there, I have some ideas on how to solve the whine you're hearing. I broke it up to several parts: 1. What is the cause of capacitor whine? How does current translate into audio? Why do more demanding games create more coil whine or capacitor whine? 2. How to replace the capacitor with a different one and what to look for 3. A strong warning about ESR specification and how to match it 4. An elegant solution that might work without replacing the existing capacitor, by adding another, small capacitor across it, and how to select the right capacitor, and how to do measurements to help select it. 1. First of all let's go back to how you understand capacitors, because you need to change your understanding of those to understand where coil whine comes from. So let's talk about current. Current happens in a circuit when the voltage source is somehow shunted to ground, through some sort of impedance. In the PS5 most of the use will be from integrated circuits. Transistors inside those, on the silicon die, essentially connect the voltage rail to ground, or something to that effect. This is almost completely a resistive connection. You call that a resistive load. You can imagine someone having a resistor going from Vcc (the voltage rail) to gnd (ground). That creates the /request/ for current: the supplying circuit will be able to feed it current up to a certain point, at which the load itself will start limiting the current. But most often the supply circuit will be the limiting factor, supplying less current than the load in question could transfer at most. This is due to where the current comes from. Where does it come from? It has to reach the chip in question via a long lead on the pcb (which has resistive and inductive impedance), maybe a connector, a cable, and then essentially it comes out of some sort of transformer. Transformers are the ultimate source of impedance in the circuit. Because they have high series inductance, they can produce a lot of current, but only /after some settling time/. This means that as you change your current draw, the transformer has to settle towards that new level of current draw, before it starts outputting that. During the transition, there will be pre-ringing and post-ringing. If the current request increases, the current will mostly undershoot and then overshoot and then it'll settle to the new value. It'll happen the other way if the current request decreases. This over/undershooting happens because the transformer itself has to produce the current. To do that, it needs to source something called the electromotive force. The electromotive force is what physically makes electrons in the circuit have the "will" to run around the circuit, producing current (charge moving around the circuit = current). This electromotive force takes some time to charge up because it actually comes from the other side of the transformer and that takes a while to transfer over air, kind of like the battery in your mobile phone doesn't get charged immediately using a wireless charger. Same thing. So now you have the transformer reacting to the changes in current consumption, but there's undershoots and overshoot. Overshoots are easy to deal with: the resistive load will be unable to pass more current through itself than it can handle. The undershoots are bad, though. This can cause a so called "brown out", and generally can lead to circuits not working as they should. It won't break them, but logic circuits can go awry. So for this reason, you need another source of current that will react much faster than the transformer. Imagine you have your voltage rail fed by a transformer, and only that. So what can you do? Well, you could add a battery in parallel, across the voltage rail. It holds some charge and is able to supply it very quickly. However, this charge is eventually going to deplete, unless you re-charge it. This is, essentially, what a capacitor is: a battery which is able to re-charge. Inside the capacitor, you have a roll, but unlike you said, it's not one strip of foil that is rolled up. It's actually two strips of foil. Those strips of metalised foil will be separated by a dielectric, and then as you roll the stuff up you also add another layer of dielectric to insulate the roll from itself. The capacitor stores charge in an electric field located between the two strips of foil (called plates). If you unrolled the capacitor without damaging it, it would still work. It would be two very long strips of foil with a piece of dielectric between them. One of the plates contains positive charge, and the other contains negative charge. The dielectric isn't infinitely rigid - it can be compressed. So the plates contain opposite charges... those charges will attract. Depending on how much charge the capacitor contains, the plates will attract with more or less force. The dielectric between them counters that like a spring. The plates will therefore move closer and further away depending on what charge there is in the capacitor. This creates movement, and if this movement is fast enough it can be heard, and that's called "microphonics". So why does this happen so often? Because the chips in the playstation turn their gates on and off very quickly, in a random pattern. This pattern is very random and will contain all frequencies up to the gigahertz frequencies at which the gates close and open. But it will also contain lower frequencies (because it's random), including audible frequencies. So what happens is that current changes a little, and then the transformer has a little lag and a little drop out before it can respond with the new current that was requested. So instead, a little charge will be unloaded from the capacitor, to provide the current that's missing, in tandem with the transformer. Remember, charge going out of the capacitor is current, just like water coming out of a container (eg bottle) is water current (like the current in a river). So every time a gate closes or opens, requested current changes, and therefore the charge in the capacitor changes, and so the plates in the capacitor move a little, and therefore they output sound. This actually explains why people hear this more in more demanding games: more demanding games require more logic circuits to be utilized (closed and opened), which means more power draw in total, this means higher current, and this means that the current swings are larger when the current ask changes, and therefore the charge across the capacitor gets depleted more when it needs to make up for the sagging, and therefore it is louder.
2. So what can you do about this? You have a microphonic capacitor. You can do a few things. The first is: Install a different capacitor. There isn't really a rule to which ones are going to be better. However, things like MLCCs for example are known to be very loud. As far as electrolytics go (like the one in the video), if you keep the voltage rating, capacitance, and ESR the same, the larger capacitor is going to behave better because the charge difference across the plates is less, and the plates can be a bit further apart. Magnetism falls off with the square of distance (inverse square law) at small distances, so even the smallest amount of additional distance is going to reduce magnetic attraction force by a lot. However, it doesn't seem like you can put a much larger capacitor in those PSUs. If I were you I'd order like 10 different kinds. My guess is you have enough funding to do that. When replacing them so often, do the following: remove the original capacitor; then add some clipped-off, thick, aluminium leads you clipped off a large capacitor, where the whining capacitor goes on the pcb; then only ever solder the new test capacitors to those leads. This way you won't be soldering the pcb 20x (which will no doubt damage the solder point). But also make sure to solder the new capacitors to those leads, instead of using alligator clips. 3. When replacing the capacitor, be VERY wary of ESR. You don't just need to measure ESR using an ESR meter. That's not good enough. This is because the ESR of a capacitor /changes according to the frequency/ that's being measured. Essentially, imagine you're passing a musical note through a capacitor (in series). If it's an A at 440 Hz, it's going to be attenuated by the capacitor by some amount. But then if it's the C above that at 523.25 Hz, then it's going to be attenuated by a different amount. That sort of thing. This is actually very important in power supplies to make sure the capacitor doesn't produce a lot of heat, and so that it can produce the necessary minimum current at the frequencies that are going to be asked of it. You are going to have very large capacitors (those horizontal barrel types, axial capacitors) that handle lower frequencies; then the bricks that are problematic that handle somewhat higher frequencies; then even smaller capacitors that handle even higher frequencies (usually closer to the integrated circuit using them); then even smaller capacitors for even higher frequencies, even closer to the chip, and eventually ones that are super tiny, handle the highest frequencies, and are soldered onto the IC directly. You've seen them on computer CPUs. The higher frequency the capacitor needs to handle during current "brown-outs", the closer it needs to be to what is requesting the current. An ESR meter only measures at one or two frequencies. You need a sweep capable meter. So what you do is you open the datasheet for the capacitor in question, and look at its frequency / esr graph, and try to find something with a similar graph. It's essentially going to be a graph with a single peak (which displays the inverse of ESR, called conductance) or a graph with a single valley (that's going to be the ESR). If that isn't correct, it could lead to instability, just like dried out capacitors on motherboards lead to instability. 4. What else you can do is you can try to shield the capacitor from this sort of current draw by "bypassing" it. Essentially, every capacitor on a voltage rail is a bypass capacitor. When you bypass something with a capacitor, it means you give the current requests an incentive to be fulfilled by your bypass capacitor, and not whatever you were drawing that current from beforehand. So if you want to prevent the capacitor in question from fulfilling current requests at audible frequencies, find a capacitor that has a much lower ESR than that capacitor does at audio frequencies. It has to handle the same voltage, but it does NOT have to handle the same capacitance. Then connect it in parallel with the existing capacitor, making sure polarity works, although you can use a capacitor that isn't polar either. Anyways, over the audio range (say 300 Hz - 10 kHz), the new capacitor should have a lower ESR value that depends on how much you want to reduce the noise by. So if your problem cap has an ESR of X Ohms over the audio range, then a bypass capacitor that has X Ohms ESR over that range will cut the current draw to that cap by half, and essentially reduce the noise by 6 decibels. (here I'm assuming those are linearly related, they might not be, not sure). If your bypass capacitor has X/2 Ohms ESR over that range, then the original capacitor will only be receiving 1/3 of the current, reducing it more. A bypass cap of X/4 Ohms ESR will go even lower. So if your problem cap has an ESR of 2.1 Ohms over the range 300-10 000 Hz, then you want a capacitor that has an ESR of well under 1 Ohms over 300 - 10 000 Hz. Maybe even 0.1 Ohms. And make sure that that new capacitor isn't microphonic either! Buy a few different brands. The nice thing is, though, that your new capacitor might be able to fit on the underside of the PCB (where you solder/unsolder the capacitor legs), between the legs. It might be very small! So it would be a great fix. You can in fact measure ESR using a signal generator and an oscilloscope. This would be easy over audio frequencies. You take a high impedance output (1M out) signal generator and make it sweep a sinewave from 300 Hz to 10 kHz. You take two 1k Ohm resistors and your capacitor. From the output of the signal generator, you split it to two paths. One path goes through the 1k resistor to ground. The other goes through the capacitor, then a 1k resistor, then to ground. So the output of the signal generator is connected to a resistor and the capacitor at the same time. Next, you clip your oscilloscope across the capacitor's legs, and look at the graph of the sweep, so that the whole sweep is on the screen at once. That's your ESR measurement graph. The taller the graph is at a certain frequency, the higher the ESR of the capacitor is. Now replace the capacitor with a 5 Ohm resistor to see what an ESR of 5 Ohms looks like, make note, and then you can read off the ESR of your capacitor off the oscilloscope. Easy! So you'd have the output of the sig gen go to two paths: the first path is a 1k resistor to ground; the second path is a 5 ohm resistor, then a 1 k resistor, and then ground. I hope you've had fun reading. Let me know if you have any questions!
This has started happening when I play some games. I got a very good warranty though so getting a replacement won't be an issue aside from the availability if I decide to go that route.
@@Tronicsfix I've been shocked by the end of a fluorescent I was trying to find the socket that was under a staircase step I could not see. It's like 500 volts, mains was 247.
When I played AC Valhalla the console make some sort of "ticking" sound and its quite loud. Last time I heard this sound was with my first PC in 2002. When I play Spider-Man or Cyberpunk I can barely hear the console. Except for Cyberpunk, all games are PS5 versions. Its a kinda mystery to me what causing this because it also depends on which game you play.
to all those who freak out about coil whine. Its normal almost every console has it. You can especially hear it with heavy games like ac valhalla. And since the fan is so quiet the noise is more audible. Great vid btw :) 👍
Yet somehow SX does not have widespread reports of annoying coil whine. Could it be that one company went the extra mile to ensure theirs doesn’t have coil whine?
@@captaincrunch1707 could be. If one thing the xbox one did better than playstation last generation was noise level. Extremely quiet and coming from ps4 which was ridiculously loud. The ps5 ain't to bad.
I don't play anything on my PC except for the only games , everyone should play: Age of Empires 2 and 3. I doN't have a 1500€ PC or something, but I did build it myself few months back and purchased the parts when they were on sale pre christmas. 750 bucks and it's running perfect. No coil whine and no annoying sound. I hear the fans, but I don*t mind them. I do mind the loud ass coil whine in my PS5, though
this man is literally putting his ear to it searching for a sound like “i think it's this one.” Meanwhile i can hear the jet engine on my ps4 from across the room 😐
Tronicsfix, did you solve the buzz/whine problem ? My Ps5 PSU rattles like crazy when playing heavy games....im sick of it, and to return a brand new product i bought in such a short time is crazy. Could you test Hot Glue or Epoxy on the components just like series X PSU? Might do it myself after i have proof it works.
@@MrUchiha i will 👍🏻 i spoke to customer service and they knew of this “buzz issue”, the honest support told me they 9/10 return the unit as long it works, despite the sound. In rare cases they swap it for a new one. I think Microsoft did a better job with the dempening of the components (they put some greyish dots of kit on it). I’ve sended my ps5 to Sony, lets see what happens. But i think, its a waste of time. Ill let you know 👍🏻
@@richieb9675 thanks let me know. Yes, MS did a better job. I hope to get a fix on this soon: people is saying some hot glue or silicone can actually fix the vibration / coil whine.
The X2 is a AC film capacitor. buzzing noise is produced in film capacitors by the mechanical vibration of the films, due to the Coulomb force existing between electrodes of opposite polarity. Buzz noise becomes louder if the applied voltage waveform presents distortion and/or high frequency harmonics. Buzz noise does not affect the capacitor structure, nor its electrical characteristics or reliability.
The noise is produced by the oscillating Electric Field Force precent between the metal plates of the metal film capacitor! (The plastic film acts as the dielectric in this type of capacitor.) That cap looks like it form part of the line filter stage of the switch-mode power supply. Just replace it with a better quality cap of the same type and value!
Just to throw a random idea out there. Perhaps you could try connect it again furter appart and see what it does? Connect wires to it/them, keep it away from the rest of the board and see if something changes. (I don't if this helps or not, I'm not educated in this stuff but sometimes electronics dont like the magnetism near each other)
Wanna learn how to fix game consoles? Check out my online courses: www.gameconsolerepairschool.com/
Also, anyone know what I could replace that capacitor with?
Who else dose not have a ps5
@Ethan Atchley I thought of that but since both of them have exactly the same noise I don't think the capacitors are faulty.
The coil whine is usually produced by the coils themselves and not the capacitor. When current gets passed through the coil, it vibrates and makes that sound.
I've managed to fix the same problem (not on a PS5) by adding some thermal glue to the coil and the components around it (in this case the capacitors), gluing them together.
Try this if you can, you can use any cheap thermal glue. By gluing both components, the vibrations should be dampened.
Thermal glue on coils is frequently used on TV's to reduce the noise.
It could be a problem on hz on the power lines, the console works with 50/60 hz but normally 60hz it is never 220v, it could be near 240v+ in your power lines, people should check their home and check their lines dont have noice or a short circuit witch the switch dont jump, i know sometimes it happen cause i live with a generator and sometimes when the engine speed up the hertz go up and and as an example the power suply of one of my mates here sound loud and work hard, maybe it is that, that capacitor is working to much.
@@Hack3rPT Yes. I posted a picture just above you showcasing what must be done. BTW could you tell me about that thermal glue? Maybe a link? I want to do that on my PS4 Pro some day.
The buzzing in a foil capacitor is down to electrostriction - which is movement of the insulating films caused by the electric field as it passes through the capacitor. It is harmless, apart from being annoying. If you wanted to reduce this buzz, you could replace your foil capacitor with one rated for a much higher voltage. A capacitor rated for a higher voltage will have thicker insulating films - which will need a higher force (voltage) to make them buzz. A higher rated film capacitor should, therefore, be quieter compared to a lower rated one capacitor under the same voltage conditions.
He needs to see this comment
@@TheMcdrewb He sure does,mines dont whine but what if it does it later down the line,noises annoy me. I made sure i have controls on all 8 fans in my pc case too,lol
@@MorbidThrasher666 yours does whine, you just haven’t played the games that mostly cause it. Try Destiny 2 or Demon souls.
How much is the difference in cost would you say? Curious if Sony literally skimped out on a few pennys or even a couple dollars.
@@TriWaZe Generally components are chosen according to what's appropriate for the electrical properties of a given circuit. The minimum voltages for capacitors is determined and then likely increased by a given percentage to guarantee that the part will last. Issues like coil whine are probably far down the priority list and somewhat difficult to anticipate. It's not so much that Sony skimped out on a part, rather, they followed standard practices for good circuit design but didn't anticipate this issue in advance and they'll likely make a change in a future revision.
You can completely solve the noise problem by sending your PS5 to me.
That way, you won't hear it :)
That's so thoughtful of you! Lol
I have a ps5 for sale. Pm me
@@robstehlik3037 No.
@@robstehlik3037 ill give you $20 bucks and half a sandwich for that PS5
@@robstehlik3037 do you tho
The best way to fix weird noises is the same as with a car - turn the music up
Edit - thanks for all the thumbs up, people.
Most of us use headphones now anyway haha
Lol...this is true!
another way is...
yeah. another way beside that.
Just cry louder than the whine is
I do that with my laptop
I think my gf has some of those blue capacitors in her because she whines all the time
This is gold
Thought it was some kind of vibrator joke
I'm sure if we could make her read this, you'd have fixed the issue :)
😄
I can confirm that your GF whines
As you probably know a certain level of "coil whine" is inevitable in electronic systems. This is simply a function of current passing through the component causing vibrations. To negate coil whine in foil capacitors (or any other wound component for that matter) manufacturers have to roll the materials extremely tight with very precise tolerances, otherwise any non-uniformity between the coil and dielectric layers will cause an audible resonance.
My guess is the supplier Sony is using for this particular capacitor is either having a QC issue or for cost reasons isn't manufacturing with extremely tight tolerances. (I'm personally leaning towards the latter one).
As for the fix, coil whine will sometimes just go away on its own once the device has "broken in" from use. If it doesn't you could try to encase the component in a potting material (maybe even hot glue) to dampen the noise, but I'm not sure if there is enough clearance between the surrounding components to do that.
The only other option would be to replace the capacitor with a difference batch number to see if the next batch just happened to be manufactured a bit tighter.
I've heard from others that maybe a better quality cap would work. Do you know which brands would be better quality?
@@Tronicsfix Sadly, I'm not 100% sure which manufacturer would necessarily be better in this case. Even though there are only a handful of these suppliers in the world and I'm not familiar with their reputations per se.
Corsair claims they make one of the quiest PSUs for PCs on the market and they use HJC components.
What I don't know is if Corsair is simply paying for a higher level of QC/tolerance levels, or if HJC is actually better at manufacturing these particular components.
Edit: I'm curious....did you happen to notice a coil whine in your PS4 pro with this same capacitor?
@@MikeJones__Who It's a 3 cent bin component in a ware house in China. He probably got one that the half deaf QC guy couldn't hear and it got passed as good to go.
@@Laugh1ngboy I would honestly be surprised if there was a "guy" involved in the process at all. Even in China electronics manufacturing is highly automated.
It’s very interesting what you are saying. Also the video show that the component is shared with PS4 Pro.
My PS4 Pro (launch edition) has no coil whine but my PS5 do and both are connected to the same power regulator. Maybe quality control is a big factor here?
First of all, coil whine doesn't decrease the lifespan of the component or the console, it doesn't make PS5 inferior to Xbox series X, it doesn't have any effect on anything other than being a little annoying. Now,
Coil whine happens cuz a current in a conductor creates a magnetic field, and if the conductor and the current are bunched up like in a coil, each fraction of the conductor can pull on or push away other fractions. If there's an AC current flowing through the conductor, the pulling and pushing happen alternatingly and at the same frequency as the current. Alternating pulling and pushing means sound, and higher frequency AC current means higher pitched sound, or whine. That's why coil whine gets worse when there's a heavy load on the system when the frequency gets higher than base clock.
😮
The best was to fix coil whine from the perspective of a science student as myself would just be to press the coils tighter together. If you could put enough pressure on the film capacitor using a binder clip or something of the sort, the sound would get muffled enough to the point of not being audible. This is just an idea though, I can't guarantee it won't add extra complications or even work at all
@
Vibudh
Thanks for a great explanation. I have a follow up question: How come just some caps "whine"? Sometimes you have two caps that are exactly the same but one whines but not the other. This have happened to me several times when recaping old computers.
@@Videohead-eq5cy I think the series x power supply has a bunch of goo kind stuff probably to reduce the noice
so basically the wire creates a emf (electromagnetic field) which then is attenuated by the AC current causing the metal to vibrate
Do I have a PS5? - Nope ❌
Do I repair consoles? - Nope ❌
Do I still watch the video? - Absolutely 😎👍 ✅
too bad only one is right. the rest is false.
Thanks for watching!
I have my PS5 since November from the Kohl's release. It was never cancelled so I guess I got pretty lucky
i have one from march so only 1 is false
"Lot of smart people who watches my videos"
Ok, not me.
You are smart don’t say that about yourself. You are smarter both inside and outside. You can and will be anything you want too. Always believe in yourself . I believe in you 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽👍🏾
You two know each other?
@Frank, what channel should we go to?
It's a 1uF 10% tolerance 310V AC X2 capacitor made by Surge Components. I'd try replacing with a similar rated one from one of the more famous capacitor brands. Maybe something from the Kemet F681 or Vishay MKP339 series.
Awesome! That's what I'm looking for. Any idea if either of these brands will make one that doesn't make this noise?
@@Tronicsfix There's no guarantees just the hope that a better brand will be better manufactured. I've used both brands in SMPS designs and not had any problems.
Getting the epoxy fill soft enough so it doesn't transmit noise to the case but hard enough to keep moisture out and protect the foil is difficult.
That's a good recommendation, both are very reputable brands. Vishay is often found in high end lab equipment.
@@Tronicsfix will you attempt to put in a different capacitor and make a video?
@@Baba_Yaga88 Of course he will. It's been 3 hours since this comment was posted, he probably already ordered the part.
I upgraded from a launch edition PS4 Pro to a PS5... i’d take this coil whine any day of the WEEK over the jet engine that was my PS4 Pro😂
Yes, for sure. In the end coil whine is just annoying.
My PS4 is loud and I have cleaned the heat sink countless times any suggestions?
@@Tronicsfix definitely. Only ever hear it when i purposely put my ear against the PS5 lol
@@Saif649-1 From what i’ve heard, replacing the thermal paste would be the next best solution
Tbh both Xbox and ps5 are silent my series X makes no noise and I’m right next to it on my desk
I had a continuous irritating whine in my car for months, i divorced my wife and then it disappeared. Happy days.
Lol!
Oof!
Lol, If your next wife still do the same, then we knew where the actual problem is ...
@@bpcgos Then he needs to get a car with enclosed passenger compartiment.
Or a driving licence.
I have a ps5 you have a car I don't have a car you don't have a ps5
I know in the past, most of this noise in switching power supplies is from the actual inductor coils themselves. The company I work for we always secure inductors with epoxy, because they actually physically vibrate, especially in a switching power supply. You can use hot glue or epoxy to secure the base of them to the PCB
The coils in the PS5 (at least in mine) are glued down already. I had thought of that though.
@@Tronicsfix I have heard that brand new capacitors of certain make up like foil types can be noisy and actually have a "break in" period and get quieter, but I'm not an EE, I'm a SW Engineer, but hear my coworkers talk about this in the past. haha Any EE can chime in.
Edit:
If this is true, I wonder if Sony up against impossible shipping demand, did not do a proper Burn-in test to mitigate this issue, and just is shipping them out as fast as possible.
So the blue component he pulled off was an induction coil, not a capacitor? It would actually make sense because it looked nothing like a capacitor on the inside.
@@VanillaSnake21 No it is a film capacitor, I just didn't pay attention to see that the coils were already glued down :P haha
@@VanillaSnake21 its a X2 capacitor.
Protip for hobbyists: He's not joking around when he says not to disassemble power supplies. Capacitors store charge, so it's possible to shock yourself even if the power supply is turned off and unplugged.
I'm curious to know if the "coil whine" capacitor you have there is COTS (Commercial off-the-shelf) anywhere, or has an equivalent it can be replaced with. Is the main problem that all of them whine like that, or is the one you removed simply defective and it can be replaced?
You were to late man. Those things hurt like hell. (Took apart a pc power supply. And accidentally touched the 400v capacitor. (It luckly was discharged a bit, but it hurts like hell)
@@jasperboer9854 , Ouch! I’m glad to see you’re still alive!
@@sandyfordd1843 i had a lot of luck. I wasn't grounded and i didn't touch it with two hands.
@@sandyfordd1843 and learn from your mistakes, i didn't. I actually one time had 230v wall power in my hands. That did hurt too. (I always wear rubber shoes so i wasnt grounded, and i touched with one hand again)
I don't think it's defective. I think that's just a noise that these caps make. I'm hoping someone much smarter than me comments and lets me know something that might work in its place.
1:41 - Holy capacitors! Those are huge!
Lol...yes they are!
Nah, they're just somewhat bigger than the others, really large electrolytic capacitors, you don't solder those to the PCB, you bolt them. And the huge oil filled ones have filler caps so you can top up the oil level.
lol watch a video on repairing a CRT. THOSE ARE HUGE. lol They have caps nearly as big as a pop can in some cases.
reminds me of 80s pcs lol...
or home theater receivers
That’s what she said
He was board, nothing is wrong the the ps5, he woke up I got an idea for a video. I love this channel you get down and dirty with the consoles and fix the problems and show us solutions.
Me: in 2021 Still Trying to get a PS5
TronicsFix: I have 2 PS5's and don't know what to do with them.
@NOVA718 so you can theoretically shove one up your ... then🤪🙈👌
@@profezzorBALTAZAR oopsie .... hahahahaha
@@zustiizth 😁
@@profezzorBALTAZAR Theoretically my arse! That would kill anyone bro! Only "theoretically" if you are a blue whale with a big arse diameter!
@@HueghMungus 🤣👌
Thanks for this video finally someone who isn't claiming the noise is from the fan. Been trying to explain this to many people its simply a Quality control issue & even Sonys CS recognised this on the phone before fan boys attack me. Plus isn't it funny how every single reviewer was sent a dead silent console 🤔 my guess they will source the same parts once they are widely available till then they will lose money by having to replace these models
Ya...not fan noise.
I do wonder will this even be fixed PS4 slims and pros had same sorta issue but I feel where just drained out by the fan, this time Sony put such an emphasis on reducing fan noise they just forgot about this, insanely dumb imo
@@joshohanlon1085 the center piece of my Nidec fan wobbles too, adds more pointless vibration. PS4 games are just about bearable but PS5 games is when the buzzing & fan noise come alive unbearably
I didn't hear any coil whine or noises when I play the game during at night.
Only the sound of disc spinning at the start and later it will be super quite.
I have a series x it is completely silent and all the comments about heat are lies it has less heat output than my Xbox one x....
exact same thing with me, but i think this is normal....?
same, fortunately my ps5 is silent besides the cyberpunk disc spinning up at start
quiet*
Coil whine on mine aren't super loud but enough to be an annoyance if I'm sitting close to it.
I just needed this video to confirm that the sound my PS5 was making was the harmless coild whine I'd been hearing about. So thanks, because this video did exactly that for me
"I have to be careful not to touch anything." **proceeds to lower head close to it**
😆
Maybe its just the frequentie or harmonics which is resulting with eddi currents a bussing noise. Same with transformers and al coil like components. Just energize a relai it wil when old buzz because the coil windings are vibrating and slowly getting more space to vibrate.
Or this capacitore Is filtering the 110 volt in and the higue voltagur male this noise
I don't know why manufacturer cheap out on this stuff, I mean as components gets more demanding on higher frequency and power draw they should stop gimping out on the important parts, were not at the pentium stage anymore where those sounds were considered normal, we want just no noise (or at best, only fan noise) to be heard.
I HATE the coil whine on my ps5. It sounds like dust is caught somewhere I couldn’t reach. Sucks that there’s no quick fix, but I’m happy to know it’s just an annoying noise and not a real malfunction. Thanks for trying!
My pro had a whine and loud fan so i cleaned the heatsink and it went back to being silent... cleaning the fan alone didn’t do anything...so it could be the ps5 heatsink as the air goes through it before it exits
I'll post and update video if I find a fix.
The reason the PS5 has coil whine is due to Sony neglecting to use a little silicone in the power supply. Most PSUs (incl the XSX) have this grey or white goop over the components to mitigate the vibrations and noise.
A little RTV Silicone (or possibly hot glue) will work. Could you test this out for us?
no the noise is internal to the cap
I’ve been so excited for a ps5 repair
I'm still trying to find a broken one to buy.
Happy new year! Keep going with the great video's!
Thanks! Will do!
Let's all take a time and appreciate what this great man doing in every video
Hi, where did you buy your hdmi tester? :)
just search it up. If it looks the same and is from a reputable company, its likely it
Have you checked the description? Idk if it'll be there but it's worth a try
Should be in my Amazon shop. Link in description.
Look at tools and parts in description!
Uhhhh why don't you try looking up "Hdmi tester" on ebay? O.o
I learned a little bit about coils, perfect timing
The PS5 fan is so quiet you can even hear the electrons flowing inside 😂
I have a Ps5 and it's makes high pitch sound, not high sound like my Ps4. For me I think my Ps5 is quite compared to a PC for example.
It really isn’t quiet though 😂
@@Abdullah..S my ps5 is only loud installing games and turning on the console
@Christian Longo Why don't you just search the problems up? Do you really think people will lie about their console being loud? Just on RUclips alone you'll see a ton of videos of people showing their loud PS5s.
Edit: Type in "Series X coil whine" and you'll see one video of the series X and the rest will be the ps5!
@@aki-sid Is this like peoples self esteem so hurt they can’t get a ps5 that they gotta try and make up crap about it lol. My ps5 literally is quiet as a mouse only makes any noise when installing games/updates. stop talking out of your ass guy.
I don’t understand at all but I love watching you fix it.
I was so excited to watch this. I let out a little "yes!"
Same feeling when watching 😅😂
Thanks so much for doing this video as I requested on Twitter.
I hope Sony sees this video and improve future power supplies
Please just in case explain how to discharge those bigger caps without frying anything or die during the attempt.
smart way is discharging them through a beefy resistor. quick 'n dirty way is to just bridge the terminals with something like a screwdriver ~ not recommended though lol
I use electricians insulated pliers and touch the two wires coming out of those huge caps. Makes a very loud snap so be ready for it!
I use a 220v common household led light (my country uses 220v) with 2 wires and touch the legs of the cap with them. Sometimes the light turns on for a fraction of a second.
@@Tronicsfix those pliers are just shorting the caps, which means all the discharging happens internally, within the cap, creating heat and whatnot, which isn't great for it but probably won't kill it if you only do it a few times
not to mention the ablation at the surface of your pliers or the legs of the caps from the spark discharge lol
@@franciz2 that's a probably a pretty good way of going about it! a regular incandescent light would work just as well probably, they're literally just plain resistors
I Really love your videos. Can't wait for your videos.
Please make 2-3 videos per week.
I would if I had time.
Why didn’t you try the PS4 part? Perhaps the ps5 one was faulty
I think he wanted to show us what was inside them.
I have started to want to learn to fix things like this. All because I watch you fix stuff. You sir are great at what you do and a great person. Now it's time to save up for some tools.
practice on power supplies, preferably running! they make great student projects.
The nice thing about some PSUs is you can hear how the sound changes as load changes.
This caps are SEALED because humidity kill them. We had SERIOUS issues with this kind of caps at work, once some humidity gets in, it starts to eat the metalization until the cap fails completly. You can replace the cap with same VALUE and VOLTAGE rating and pick another brand. Process are different from brand to Brand. But whine and ticking noise teng to come from the power transformer or PFC coils. The new green-ish SMPSUs can get really anoying when "idling" to lower the consumption down to nothing, but they change the freq, waveform and period, like they strt to use some little burst of switching to keep the ouput cap charge to value and then go sleep and them again, making this thicking thing. Under load, they are not longer in that mode. They get worse on PFC ones .... they are extremely efficient ... but ...
I remember being one of a few subscribers of this channel. I was mindlessly watching this sincere person fixing things that I didnt even own only because I just liked watching him. Now almost 800k subscribers.
Congrats and I am very happy for your successful channel!!! Happy New Year!
Hey thanks for sticking around!
@@Tronicsfix Happy new year and wish you the best!!
Don't do it at home it's dumb and dangerous.
Steve: let's do it.
Coil whine is generally high frequency passing through and creating a vibration which in return makes noise. Before the easiest way was to put hot glue over the components to minimise vibration, not sure if it still is though
Your Community and you are great
Funny since November i was believing to have a bad ps5 fan but now i took out the fan again, turned the ps5 on and started a game and still got the same noise but from the bottom. Pretty sure it is the same condenser. DAMN TRONICS FIX
Question is: is sony repairing my ps5 still even if i did all of my fan-fixing attempts? Haha
I'm very concerned that with those 2 PS5 consoles being torn down, there are only another 10 currently in circulation worldwide..... 🙄
Don't be, Sony will go on to produce many many millions more during it's life time!
@@Adrian_Finn And Microsoft will go on to make many times that!
@@bean_bttf3 I doubt it, Xbox has less demand than PlayStation
When applying AC voltage to a metal film capacitor, buzzing is produced in film capacitors due to the mechanical vibration of the films due to the Coulomb force existing between electrodes of opposite polarity. This is completely normal of metal film capacitors and does not cause any issues in terms of reliability or longevity. If you examine the buzz in more detail, it's probably oscillating at around 60Hz which matches the NA AC waveform.
There's no easy fix to my knowledge without a good understanding of the circuit. You could try moving to a higher voltage metal film capacitor but keep the other properties the same. You could also try to move to a teflon (instead of polypropylene) capacitor with similar values as well (not electrolytic, tantalums, or mylar though). Lastly, you could look to reduce the noise by adding a ferrite bead to filter out the high frequency noise, but once again it would take knowledge of the circuit to understand the impact.
I think you should apply some hot glue over the components (only in cold parts) or special epoxy over the components.
1 step further and encase the entire game console in carbonite! 😂😂
@@ManMountainMetals construction foam is better 🤣
People going nuts cause they can´t get one ps5 and you go and disassemble 2 of them? Oh Steve you are the best
Hi. These are called “film capacitors”. They’re usually installed 2 in parallel like on this board to reduce the electromagnetic effect which can cause the resonate sound you’re experiencing. But in your case you should focus on the two RF-chokes (green circle inductors). Cover these in hot glue or silicon and this will stop the ringing. Common problem in plasma TVs as well.
Aluminum electrolytic capacitors are rolled up with an electrolyte soaked paper. That paper can actually absorb the mechanical resonance that can create noise. This "plastic film" can vibrate with certain frequencies. Corsair has taken extra measures to make sure these capacitors do not make any noise by implementing additional quality control measures when sourcing components to build our power supplies. - - from Corsair blog
Is coil whine bad, or just annoying?
it is normal for any Electronic to have coil whine, specialy power supplies and graphics cards. it is just annoying, i remember my ps4 pro used to whine a lot during rise of the tomb raider but not other games
Its just annoying and nothing that indicates an error. Unfortunately the sound is not always the same and can be louder,quiter or have a different pitch than other consoles even if its the same model.
Just annoying.
Perfectly normal for the circuit. But happens to have an audible component.
so annoying you need head phones to play any game in 60 FPS on PS5. PS4 games are pretty quite though. only the ps5 games seem to cause this issue in 60 FPS mode. which sucks
People don't get their hands on these and this guy just tears them apart 😂
Having issues with my PS5 that was made in Aug 2020. I'd return this already to the retail store, then exchange for another, but with the current supply of PS5s think I'll just go through Sony in few months from now and have them replace it.
Just contact Sony and if they accept your issues as being faults, they’ll tell you to send it to them. They’ll then send you a replacement within a few days.
I heard of some people receiving it within the same week, and others a whole month, I would just return mine since there's not much I would be missing out and pray I get lucky
What's your Issues?
@@one_up907 i am getting a high pitched noise that is audible in a quiet room about 5 feet away from PS5. It is most likely the PSU. When current passes through the copper wound coils in the PSU, it causes them to vibrate. The slight vibration is making the high pitched noise. Apparently Sony skipped the glue/tarnish step on the coils of some of their PS5s.
Never been so early, great video as always
Thank you!
Great information ❤
Who asked for your opinion?
Mahir Taleb Nosabyskolan 9B who asked for your "who asked for your opinion?" Opinion ?
lol
@@Deathwarrior115 hehe funny
My digital ps5 is making a loud buzzing noise when playing high demanding games like fortnite etc. Is that normal?
RIP to those who bought one of this from a scalper without warranty
I've told everyone that I sold a PS5/Series X to contact me directly if they have any warranty issues and I would contact Sony/MS directly on their behalf. There are some nice scalpers out there ;)
A valid receipt is not require for Sony warranty. You just need to enter’s console serial numbers and stats the problem. All console come with 12months warranty. Postage label is free as well. You should try it :)
I have nothing against scalpers to be honest. I respect the hustle. Now if you buy from them I don't want anything to do you with you, you're so stupid it's probably dangerous to be around you.
@ionesito . They don't need to be stupid, they are just willing to pay a higher amount then you for the console. They are just higher on the demand curve than you are. They wouldn't likely have to pay the amount they are if scalpers didn't shift the supply curve.
I don't respect the hustle of scalpers. They put an unnecessary pressure on the market.
why they all have some coil whine.
Switching PSU always make some noise. Very high pitched and many people don't have the hearing to notice it. For me it is very handy tool for a quick diagnosis in a no power case. If the PSU is singing it's usually not the cause of a no power issue. To make a switching PSU quieter some put hot glue or other kinds of rubbery kit on suspected components to reduce the noise/vibration. In this case of a capacitor vibrating on the inside of its casing that might not help. You can always revert back to an old fashioned non switching PSU with a transformer.
"As a warning, you could start thermal nuclear war by taking apart this and any other device. With that being said, let's get started"
I noticed that the PS4 PRO`s (no matter which model!) also do this and has this strange noise. I replaced my PS4 PRO consoles in six times (warranty) and all of them did this sound. The first time I thought that the fan doing this but when I played with Gravel (auto game) I noticed it`s doing this. It`s changing the strange sound level when the screen has changed. (Zoltan from Hungary)
Can't you just replace the capacitor with the one from the ps4?
Unfortunately PS4 had the same problem
The foam looking glue you see on some motherboards holding or insulating components can be used to change the frequency that these capacitors make noise at. Used this method to hook two side by side capacitors on a noisy power supply together and eliminated the noise. Also longer or shorter legs on the caps can help, typically longer. Good luck and great videos.
Love this guy !
EEV blog made a video years ago about coil whine in the backlight driver of a multimeter. But it was actually a capacitor. The problem is the dielectric sheet has some piezoelectric properties making it vibrate. If the layers are too loose the electrostatic forces can also make it buzz
Could you not just try that ps4 cap you had in there - just to see if the sound goes away - then you know for sure its the cap
and not some other component causing the cap to resonate...
The noise probably comes from subtle vibrations in the cap. Try solder it back on and then use some epoxy or hotglue all around the cap to reduce vibration. The compound should be as stiff as possible.
Yes...! I have the solution !!! --- Place the console within 3inch thick foam insulation... That should solve your ears from picking up the whine...
Yeah bricking your ps5 should fix all noise issues.
Lol...I'll try that next time!
just turn it off, that will fix it for sure
that should also solve the ps5's ability to shed heat which will permanently fix the coil whine
The coil whine is produced by the coils themselves and not the capacitor. When current gets passed through the coil, it vibrates and makes that sound.
I've managed to fix the same problem (not on a PS5) by adding some thermal glue to the coil and the components around it (in this case the capacitors), gluing them together.
Try this if you can, you can use any cheap thermal glue. By gluing both components, the vibrations should be dampened.
Thermal glue on coils is frequently used on TV's to reduce the noise.
The actual coils already have glue on them. It's not from the coils. It's from the capacitor.
@@Tronicsfix Sorry then. Never seen this capacitor problem before with anything else. I was saying it was the coils because it's usually the problem.
I once opened a power supply on a ps4 pro and then accidentally touched several metal pieces poking out, I shocked myself, my hand had lots of little blisters and it smelt like I cooked my skin.
Please don’t try it at home guys!😂
It could be fixed by reading a datasheet to those capacitors.
Effect is caused by ampere force that changing by current passing through that think, sometimes in high power systems it is called a striking current because it can bend terminals, busses and so on. Just imagine thousands of amperes in 20 cm close to each other.
Just read the datasheet to those caps, there should be ESR, temperature code like X5R, X7R, COG and so on, plus you will find a bunch of graphs showing impedance vs Frequency. Capacitors should be selected in SMPS by their frequency and amount of ripple current.
Just look at any other looking like that with a greater max current through capacitor. If there is nothing: less ESR/ESL and try to find the same Z vs Freq behaviour. I don't know switching frequency exactly at this PSU, But you can measure that on secondary side by oscilloscope: just put in AC coupling mode a.k.a. only AC passes thrgough. Measure by using a ground spring, try to do it without crocodiles because noise would distort measurement and you would see what is not actually happens at the measurement points.
So, measure the frequency and then add a better capacitor: I Recommend same capacitance, MLCC same voltage or if you choose larger by 3-4 steps you would get less ESR by sure by saving 1 cent...
At least same Capacitance and voltage, temperature coefficient should be X5R, C0G or X7R(worst case) and just find out with less ESR. You can find parameters at digikey or mauser. Just find a part number and order it somewhere cheaper, for example on LCSC
Tronics: *Disconnects fans*
Ps5: *cries in thermal meltdown*
Hi there, I have some ideas on how to solve the whine you're hearing. I broke it up to several parts:
1. What is the cause of capacitor whine? How does current translate into audio? Why do more demanding games create more coil whine or capacitor whine?
2. How to replace the capacitor with a different one and what to look for
3. A strong warning about ESR specification and how to match it
4. An elegant solution that might work without replacing the existing capacitor, by adding another, small capacitor across it, and how to select the right capacitor, and how to do measurements to help select it.
1. First of all let's go back to how you understand capacitors, because you need to change your understanding of those to understand where coil whine comes from. So let's talk about current. Current happens in a circuit when the voltage source is somehow shunted to ground, through some sort of impedance. In the PS5 most of the use will be from integrated circuits. Transistors inside those, on the silicon die, essentially connect the voltage rail to ground, or something to that effect. This is almost completely a resistive connection. You call that a resistive load. You can imagine someone having a resistor going from Vcc (the voltage rail) to gnd (ground). That creates the /request/ for current: the supplying circuit will be able to feed it current up to a certain point, at which the load itself will start limiting the current. But most often the supply circuit will be the limiting factor, supplying less current than the load in question could transfer at most. This is due to where the current comes from. Where does it come from? It has to reach the chip in question via a long lead on the pcb (which has resistive and inductive impedance), maybe a connector, a cable, and then essentially it comes out of some sort of transformer. Transformers are the ultimate source of impedance in the circuit. Because they have high series inductance, they can produce a lot of current, but only /after some settling time/. This means that as you change your current draw, the transformer has to settle towards that new level of current draw, before it starts outputting that. During the transition, there will be pre-ringing and post-ringing. If the current request increases, the current will mostly undershoot and then overshoot and then it'll settle to the new value. It'll happen the other way if the current request decreases. This over/undershooting happens because the transformer itself has to produce the current. To do that, it needs to source something called the electromotive force. The electromotive force is what physically makes electrons in the circuit have the "will" to run around the circuit, producing current (charge moving around the circuit = current). This electromotive force takes some time to charge up because it actually comes from the other side of the transformer and that takes a while to transfer over air, kind of like the battery in your mobile phone doesn't get charged immediately using a wireless charger. Same thing. So now you have the transformer reacting to the changes in current consumption, but there's undershoots and overshoot. Overshoots are easy to deal with: the resistive load will be unable to pass more current through itself than it can handle. The undershoots are bad, though. This can cause a so called "brown out", and generally can lead to circuits not working as they should. It won't break them, but logic circuits can go awry. So for this reason, you need another source of current that will react much faster than the transformer. Imagine you have your voltage rail fed by a transformer, and only that. So what can you do? Well, you could add a battery in parallel, across the voltage rail. It holds some charge and is able to supply it very quickly. However, this charge is eventually going to deplete, unless you re-charge it. This is, essentially, what a capacitor is: a battery which is able to re-charge. Inside the capacitor, you have a roll, but unlike you said, it's not one strip of foil that is rolled up. It's actually two strips of foil. Those strips of metalised foil will be separated by a dielectric, and then as you roll the stuff up you also add another layer of dielectric to insulate the roll from itself. The capacitor stores charge in an electric field located between the two strips of foil (called plates). If you unrolled the capacitor without damaging it, it would still work. It would be two very long strips of foil with a piece of dielectric between them. One of the plates contains positive charge, and the other contains negative charge. The dielectric isn't infinitely rigid - it can be compressed. So the plates contain opposite charges... those charges will attract. Depending on how much charge the capacitor contains, the plates will attract with more or less force. The dielectric between them counters that like a spring. The plates will therefore move closer and further away depending on what charge there is in the capacitor. This creates movement, and if this movement is fast enough it can be heard, and that's called "microphonics". So why does this happen so often? Because the chips in the playstation turn their gates on and off very quickly, in a random pattern. This pattern is very random and will contain all frequencies up to the gigahertz frequencies at which the gates close and open. But it will also contain lower frequencies (because it's random), including audible frequencies. So what happens is that current changes a little, and then the transformer has a little lag and a little drop out before it can respond with the new current that was requested. So instead, a little charge will be unloaded from the capacitor, to provide the current that's missing, in tandem with the transformer. Remember, charge going out of the capacitor is current, just like water coming out of a container (eg bottle) is water current (like the current in a river). So every time a gate closes or opens, requested current changes, and therefore the charge in the capacitor changes, and so the plates in the capacitor move a little, and therefore they output sound. This actually explains why people hear this more in more demanding games: more demanding games require more logic circuits to be utilized (closed and opened), which means more power draw in total, this means higher current, and this means that the current swings are larger when the current ask changes, and therefore the charge across the capacitor gets depleted more when it needs to make up for the sagging, and therefore it is louder.
2. So what can you do about this? You have a microphonic capacitor. You can do a few things. The first is: Install a different capacitor. There isn't really a rule to which ones are going to be better. However, things like MLCCs for example are known to be very loud. As far as electrolytics go (like the one in the video), if you keep the voltage rating, capacitance, and ESR the same, the larger capacitor is going to behave better because the charge difference across the plates is less, and the plates can be a bit further apart. Magnetism falls off with the square of distance (inverse square law) at small distances, so even the smallest amount of additional distance is going to reduce magnetic attraction force by a lot. However, it doesn't seem like you can put a much larger capacitor in those PSUs. If I were you I'd order like 10 different kinds. My guess is you have enough funding to do that. When replacing them so often, do the following: remove the original capacitor; then add some clipped-off, thick, aluminium leads you clipped off a large capacitor, where the whining capacitor goes on the pcb; then only ever solder the new test capacitors to those leads. This way you won't be soldering the pcb 20x (which will no doubt damage the solder point). But also make sure to solder the new capacitors to those leads, instead of using alligator clips.
3. When replacing the capacitor, be VERY wary of ESR. You don't just need to measure ESR using an ESR meter. That's not good enough. This is because the ESR of a capacitor /changes according to the frequency/ that's being measured. Essentially, imagine you're passing a musical note through a capacitor (in series). If it's an A at 440 Hz, it's going to be attenuated by the capacitor by some amount. But then if it's the C above that at 523.25 Hz, then it's going to be attenuated by a different amount. That sort of thing. This is actually very important in power supplies to make sure the capacitor doesn't produce a lot of heat, and so that it can produce the necessary minimum current at the frequencies that are going to be asked of it. You are going to have very large capacitors (those horizontal barrel types, axial capacitors) that handle lower frequencies; then the bricks that are problematic that handle somewhat higher frequencies; then even smaller capacitors that handle even higher frequencies (usually closer to the integrated circuit using them); then even smaller capacitors for even higher frequencies, even closer to the chip, and eventually ones that are super tiny, handle the highest frequencies, and are soldered onto the IC directly. You've seen them on computer CPUs. The higher frequency the capacitor needs to handle during current "brown-outs", the closer it needs to be to what is requesting the current. An ESR meter only measures at one or two frequencies. You need a sweep capable meter.
So what you do is you open the datasheet for the capacitor in question, and look at its frequency / esr graph, and try to find something with a similar graph. It's essentially going to be a graph with a single peak (which displays the inverse of ESR, called conductance) or a graph with a single valley (that's going to be the ESR). If that isn't correct, it could lead to instability, just like dried out capacitors on motherboards lead to instability.
4. What else you can do is you can try to shield the capacitor from this sort of current draw by "bypassing" it. Essentially, every capacitor on a voltage rail is a bypass capacitor. When you bypass something with a capacitor, it means you give the current requests an incentive to be fulfilled by your bypass capacitor, and not whatever you were drawing that current from beforehand. So if you want to prevent the capacitor in question from fulfilling current requests at audible frequencies, find a capacitor that has a much lower ESR than that capacitor does at audio frequencies. It has to handle the same voltage, but it does NOT have to handle the same capacitance. Then connect it in parallel with the existing capacitor, making sure polarity works, although you can use a capacitor that isn't polar either. Anyways, over the audio range (say 300 Hz - 10 kHz), the new capacitor should have a lower ESR value that depends on how much you want to reduce the noise by. So if your problem cap has an ESR of X Ohms over the audio range, then a bypass capacitor that has X Ohms ESR over that range will cut the current draw to that cap by half, and essentially reduce the noise by 6 decibels. (here I'm assuming those are linearly related, they might not be, not sure). If your bypass capacitor has X/2 Ohms ESR over that range, then the original capacitor will only be receiving 1/3 of the current, reducing it more. A bypass cap of X/4 Ohms ESR will go even lower. So if your problem cap has an ESR of 2.1 Ohms over the range 300-10 000 Hz, then you want a capacitor that has an ESR of well under 1 Ohms over 300 - 10 000 Hz. Maybe even 0.1 Ohms. And make sure that that new capacitor isn't microphonic either! Buy a few different brands. The nice thing is, though, that your new capacitor might be able to fit on the underside of the PCB (where you solder/unsolder the capacitor legs), between the legs. It might be very small! So it would be a great fix. You can in fact measure ESR using a signal generator and an oscilloscope. This would be easy over audio frequencies. You take a high impedance output (1M out) signal generator and make it sweep a sinewave from 300 Hz to 10 kHz. You take two 1k Ohm resistors and your capacitor. From the output of the signal generator, you split it to two paths. One path goes through the 1k resistor to ground. The other goes through the capacitor, then a 1k resistor, then to ground. So the output of the signal generator is connected to a resistor and the capacitor at the same time. Next, you clip your oscilloscope across the capacitor's legs, and look at the graph of the sweep, so that the whole sweep is on the screen at once. That's your ESR measurement graph. The taller the graph is at a certain frequency, the higher the ESR of the capacitor is. Now replace the capacitor with a 5 Ohm resistor to see what an ESR of 5 Ohms looks like, make note, and then you can read off the ESR of your capacitor off the oscilloscope. Easy! So you'd have the output of the sig gen go to two paths: the first path is a 1k resistor to ground; the second path is a 5 ohm resistor, then a 1 k resistor, and then ground.
I hope you've had fun reading. Let me know if you have any questions!
"So I got two PS5's" damn he must be in some drug cartel or something to get them :D
This has started happening when I play some games. I got a very good warranty though so getting a replacement won't be an issue aside from the availability if I decide to go that route.
Everytime i saw you hover over the capacitors with any tool i got a rush of anxiety
as the song "You light up my life" plays in the background.
I like taking things apart to see how they work a few weeks ago took a whole old laptop to bits to see how it worked it was fun and interesting 🛠️
Yep! It's pretty fun!
Imagine he gets shocked I'll cry
Lol...I'd probably cry too!
@@Tronicsfix I wouldn't cry
Because I would be dead
@asdrubale bisanzio :D he's obviously not
@@Tronicsfix I've been shocked by the end of a fluorescent I was trying to find the socket that was under a staircase step I could not see. It's like 500 volts, mains was 247.
*laughs in ElectroBOOM*
When I played AC Valhalla the console make some sort of "ticking" sound and its quite loud. Last time I heard this sound was with my first PC in 2002. When I play Spider-Man or Cyberpunk I can barely hear the console. Except for Cyberpunk, all games are PS5 versions. Its a kinda mystery to me what causing this because it also depends on which game you play.
Same for me with AC Valhalla. My PS5 makes a much louder buzzing/clicking/ticking noise during this game.
ps5 users: there is this weird buzzing when my console is playing games
pc users: first time?
to all those who freak out about coil whine. Its normal almost every console has it. You can especially hear it with heavy games like ac valhalla. And since the fan is so quiet the noise is more audible.
Great vid btw :) 👍
Yet somehow SX does not have widespread reports of annoying coil whine. Could it be that one company went the extra mile to ensure theirs doesn’t have coil whine?
@@captaincrunch1707
could be. If one thing the xbox one did better than playstation last generation was noise level. Extremely quiet and coming from ps4 which was ridiculously loud. The ps5 ain't to bad.
Pc gamers
"First time?"
Was about to comment the same 😂
But... But... PC=Masterrace! PC's are supposed to be superior!
@@hotdognl70 Rofl, but pc has much more potential and freedom than consoles. This is not an opinion.
@@jonnymario771 True, even the option for inferior components. Wouldn't recommand it, but the option is there ;)
I don't play anything on my PC except for the only games , everyone should play: Age of Empires 2 and 3.
I doN't have a 1500€ PC or something, but I did build it myself few months back and purchased the parts when they were on sale pre christmas. 750 bucks and it's running perfect. No coil whine and no annoying sound. I hear the fans, but I don*t mind them. I do mind the loud ass coil whine in my PS5, though
Happy new Year Steve !!!!
Thank you! You too! Also, thanks for your comments on this video!
this man is literally putting his ear to it searching for a sound like “i think it's this one.” Meanwhile i can hear the jet engine on my ps4 from across the room 😐
Your videos are so very interesting! I feel excited when watching troubleshooting 😅😅😅 your channel is unique for me 😊
For the amount of money we spend there should be no fan noise or any noise coming from the console at all
I'm glad to see you fix these even though I dont even have one yet lol.
Glad you liked it!
@@DTW-bx2vy yeah but at least sony doesnt require you to make an account just to play games
@@DTW-bx2vy it's not slight its huge which is why the ps4 was better
@@DTW-bx2vy the stupid xbox one, duh
@@DTW-bx2vy wow ok
Thanks,I had no idea what coil whine was until I watched this video
That noise on mine goles away if I put it in vertical position, it's only when is horizontally that I hear thar
That's interesting did you just move it around to see or find out by accident?
It's the disc drive vibrating happend to mine if you don't have on stand that will help plus when I first got my ps5 I had the console upside down lol
@@one_up907 I had the idea because my ps4 slim stopped reading discs when placed horizontally... so I gave it a try and found that out.
@@Blxard21 could be, I thought it was the sticker other people talk about; maybe we'll see a solution here soon
Keep doing this amazing videos!!
They are educational and impressive!!
Happy new year!!
Thank you! Will do!
Thumbs up for all the quiet ps5's out there... mine is so quiet, must have gotten the only quiet on earth, lucky me 🤞🏼
Tronicsfix, did you solve the buzz/whine problem ? My Ps5 PSU rattles like crazy when playing heavy games....im sick of it, and to return a brand new product i bought in such a short time is crazy.
Could you test Hot Glue or Epoxy on the components just like series X PSU? Might do it myself after i have proof it works.
I’ve heard people returning it and getting a brand new one, with the same sound.
If you test it out, keep us updated please
@@MrUchiha i will 👍🏻 i spoke to customer service and they knew of this “buzz issue”, the honest support told me they 9/10 return the unit as long it works, despite the sound. In rare cases they swap it for a new one. I think Microsoft did a better job with the dempening of the components (they put some greyish dots of kit on it). I’ve sended my ps5 to Sony, lets see what happens. But i think, its a waste of time. Ill let you know 👍🏻
@@richieb9675 thanks let me know. Yes, MS did a better job. I hope to get a fix on this soon: people is saying some hot glue or silicone can actually fix the vibration / coil whine.
Two months after launch and I can't find one.
I'm beginning to think PS5 is a hoax. >_>'
The X2 is a AC film capacitor.
buzzing noise is produced in film capacitors by the mechanical vibration of the films, due to the Coulomb force existing between electrodes of opposite polarity. Buzz noise becomes louder if the applied voltage waveform presents distortion and/or high frequency harmonics. Buzz noise does not affect the capacitor structure, nor its electrical characteristics or reliability.
I’ve never been this early ni view no likes no comments Video posted 9 seconds ago
Nice work! Thanks for watching!
The noise is produced by the oscillating Electric Field Force precent between the metal plates of the metal film capacitor! (The plastic film acts as the dielectric in this type of capacitor.) That cap looks like it form part of the line filter stage of the switch-mode power supply. Just replace it with a better quality cap of the same type and value!
"Noise Magnified", should that not be "Noise Amplified"? sorry, couldn't resist. ;)
My question is, does the coil noise affect performance or function? Or is it just annoying to hear?
Does not affect anything. Just annoying.
I still can’t believe that the terminator was made out of that liquid meal stuff....
Just to throw a random idea out there. Perhaps you could try connect it again furter appart and see what it does?
Connect wires to it/them, keep it away from the rest of the board and see if something changes.
(I don't if this helps or not, I'm not educated in this stuff but sometimes electronics dont like the magnetism near each other)
i wonder if sony watching this :D