Repair a Dell Monitor U2312HM

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  • Опубликовано: 16 дек 2024

Комментарии • 44

  • @4TheGreatHorde
    @4TheGreatHorde Год назад +1

    god knows how many monitors have you saved from junk with this video, my monitor is now working, repaider by me by replacing this regulator AFTER A REPAIR SHOP SAID THEY CANT FIX IT!!!! thank you so much.

  • @jdm5001
    @jdm5001 2 года назад +3

    Thanks for the video. We have just fixed two of these U2312HM monitors within the last month. They both had this exact same fault - open circuit 3.3V regulator. The monitor is are a pain to open.

  • @qlum
    @qlum 2 года назад +7

    Thanks for the video, in my case the voltage regulator was not broken at all, just had a bad solder joint.
    So before you buy / have to wait on the part, just a quick touch up with a soldering iron may be all it takes.
    Testing it first gave me nothing then with some more probing the correct voltage, and it worked. I reflowed the solder just to be sure, and it works perfectly now.

    • @beherith66
      @beherith66 Год назад +1

      Thanks for the tip, I tried reflowing with a regular iron before I ordered the replacement part, as the solder joint did look a bit cold. Resoldered regulators and it worked! Awesome!

    • @mefisto1542
      @mefisto1542 3 месяца назад

      Did the same thing and now it works, thx for the info.

  • @matszs
    @matszs 3 месяца назад +1

    Needed this video twice, having two Dell U2312HM monitors, first time a few years ago and now this week again; thank you 😊

  • @nheather
    @nheather 2 года назад +5

    A huge thank you. My monitor stopped exactly as you described. I followed you guide to get at the PCBs. All the capacitors seemed fine. So I changed the 3.3V regulator as you suggested. Bit of a challenge as I do no have surface mount tools but I managed with my traditional soldering iron. And I now have a working monitor. Once again, a huge thank you.

  • @tron21net
    @tron21net Год назад +3

    Thank you. This was a problem for both of my Dell U2312HM monitors. First monitor stopped working back in August due to power outage. And happened to my second monitor this December on Christmas Eve due to rolling blackouts.
    My suggestions to others: 1) before removing the foil is to use a sharpie to make an outline where the power+logic silver box is placed on the LCD panel backside so that when it is time to re-assemble you'll have an easier time to place it back where it belongs in order for the screw holes to align up properly for the back screws.
    2) The single black with two red/orange wires going to the edge of the LCD panel's connector will easily break. Takes slight pressure to the two small plastic tabs (that go to two long plastic clips on both sides) inwards towards the middle (where the wiring goes into the connector) then light wiggle motion on the connector (not the wires!) to get it out properly. I broke one plastic clip completely off on first monitor, but still holds the connector in pretty good with just one in-tactic plastic clip. Dab of hot glue wouldn't hurt.
    Used my hotair rework station at 380 C temperature setting to remove the faulty P210 G1084-33 3.3 volt regulator and did replace it with the suggested AZ1084CD-3.3TRG1 part (bought 25 of them, cause they're cheaper that way). Monitors are good as new.

    • @smokebomba
      @smokebomba  Год назад

      Mine also died during power outages. I bought a high quality surge protector to protect against future issues since my cheap one clearly wasn't doing it's job.

    • @arnaudguillet
      @arnaudguillet Год назад

      Thanks. My screen does not work anymore after a power outage. I have checked the regulator shown on this video with a multimeter but it seemed fine (multimeter shows 0.88 as a value). So I guess my problem is somewhere else, but where ...

    • @smokebomba
      @smokebomba  Год назад

      @@arnaudguillet .88 is too low. It should read ~3.3v

    • @arnaudguillet
      @arnaudguillet Год назад

      @@smokebomba i have checked the regulator while the screen was unplugged. Shall I check it with the screen plugged ? Sorry I am a complete newbie.

    • @smokebomba
      @smokebomba  Год назад

      @@arnaudguillet As long as the board is powered the regulator should be 3.3v with or without the screen.

  • @angelost5902
    @angelost5902 3 года назад +5

    Thank you very much for the time you put on making this video. My monitor have stopped working after a
    power outage, and it could not turn on. It has the exact same problem as yours (faulty 3.3V regulator).

    • @AlexandarValerian
      @AlexandarValerian 2 года назад

      I have the same problem as you, second time it happened now. Last time I had it unplugged for like a month or two and it worked again. This time I don't want to wait for a monitor fairy to fix it. Also, a lot of people on the internet are also having the same issues as we do. It seems like a shitty monitor. Shame, I really liked its design.

    • @qlum
      @qlum 2 года назад

      @@AlexandarValerian It was a fairly popular monitor, and it's also 8 years old now, so I wouldn't be too hard on it.

  • @otterpopjunkie
    @otterpopjunkie 6 месяцев назад +1

    Thank You! Followed instructions and it started working while I was measuring voltages... maybe a loose cable from the high voltage board? Or a bad solder joint somewhere.

  • @BattleWeapon
    @BattleWeapon 3 года назад +4

    Thanks a lot! I had the same problem: monitor not switching after a power outage. Changed I301, faulity voltage regulator.

  • @RodakRmz
    @RodakRmz Год назад +1

    Thank you!! I had the same issue with my monitor, I found on a local semiconductor store a replacement from Linear Technology LT1084CT-3.3, it comes in a TO-220 and it doesn't fit on the original solder pad, but I managed to solder 3 wires on the regulator and added a standard TO-220 heat sink and its working great again! (you need to isolate ALL the heat sink, if you screw the heat sink to the external metal shield it wont work)

  • @imqqmi
    @imqqmi 2 года назад +1

    For me it was a 470uF 35V capacitor on the psu pcb, on the 12V output of the transformer after the diode. It read 6-7V and after replacement back to 12.3V and working again! Thanks for sharing how to open the case! I must say the inards are held together with sticky tape, really cheaply built, but the electronics seem well designed.

  • @agentarz
    @agentarz Год назад +1

    Hello,
    I also had a problem with the 3.3v regulator. There was a bad solder joint. I resoldered and everything is fine now. The monitor is alive again.

  • @winsonan7650
    @winsonan7650 8 месяцев назад +1

    Thanks for this video, I fix my U2312HM monitors today by this way.

  • @woutervanhest3240
    @woutervanhest3240 2 года назад +1

    Many thanks for this video. Exact same issue after the power tripped. Heat gun to remove the regulator and heat the solder pads and let it flow when reinstalling it. Helped save a great monitor!

  • @tommeier2299
    @tommeier2299 2 года назад +1

    it did work for me as well, thanks a lot. The most expensive part was shipping from the US for $18, regulator itself was just 50cent or so.

    • @smokebomba
      @smokebomba  2 года назад

      If you are just ordering 1 part from digikey. Print out your order, write a check, and mail it in. They give free shipping but it takes a couple weeks

    • @alisontcf
      @alisontcf 2 года назад

      @@smokebomba Thanks for your information. Does this "trick" work for every country's digikey? (E.g. Hong Kong)

    • @smokebomba
      @smokebomba  2 года назад

      @@alisontcf sorry, I don’t know

  • @fulophorvath9765
    @fulophorvath9765 3 года назад +3

    Thanks a lot, you save my day. I had a same problem with my Dell monitor.

  • @wonkadewittbukater6322
    @wonkadewittbukater6322 10 месяцев назад +1

    Thank you 1000, because you are part of the whole guide :) by the by I added another model of regulator and it did work

  • @randomtom
    @randomtom 2 года назад +1

    Thank you, exactly the same issue with my monitor!

  • @hanspeter2210
    @hanspeter2210 11 месяцев назад

    Which voltage outputs should be measured? For the right one I got 5V for the left one close to 0

  • @kritikatsia25
    @kritikatsia25 6 дней назад

    Thank you.

  • @binhlequoc7208
    @binhlequoc7208 7 месяцев назад +1

    Thanks you so much, it's helpfull

  • @viclamota
    @viclamota Год назад

    So i got a ant inside my monitor its safe to open the display? do i need to remove the back part to open the display and remove Joey ( i name him cuz he always with me while watching movies ) ?

    • @KittyChaingun
      @KittyChaingun Год назад

      Why do you wish to evict Joey? justice for Joey!!

  • @jcollin
    @jcollin 2 года назад

    Why did you pry off the front panel? Is that necessary to open the back cover?

    • @smokebomba
      @smokebomba  2 года назад

      Yes, the front and back are clipped together

  • @Unnaymed
    @Unnaymed 3 года назад +1

    Hello, this regulator is very bad, i have the same problem.
    Does it works to 5amps? I have 3amp step down as alternative, i don't know if it's a bad idea :D

    • @smokebomba
      @smokebomba  3 года назад

      The part I listed in the description is capable of 5 amps

  • @davidvorel2300
    @davidvorel2300 Год назад

    Hi everyone, I had broken 3.3v regulator, but even after replacing it the monitor doesn't work. I have measured 300v v on input cap. I have 0ohm on transistor outputs to ground. 5v rail is fluctuating from 2.8v to 4.2v, other rail is fluctuating from 18v to 20, and some third measurement is fluctuating from 4v to 7v, and pwm from mainboard is about 1.2 to 1.8 volts.
    If anyone has an idea what to check I would be grateful.
    Thanks in advance!

    • @smokebomba
      @smokebomba  Год назад +1

      One of my monitors had the same problem. I traced it back to the power board, but I didn’t have schematics to figure out the issue and ended up disposing of it

    • @davidvorel2300
      @davidvorel2300 Год назад

      @@smokebomba thanks for answering, I'm going to check everything with oscilloscope and write here what was broken