I don't know if it's you, or RUclips, but the sound sync is off. It's a bit annoying! Great video! I must say, you went a bit further than I would have gone!! The last few mins of the vid, I was armchair quarter backing, "THE ALTERNATOR IS BAD!! Just change the alternator"!! But, I sat down now!! I put the pin back in the grenade!! I released the hostages!! I feel better now, that you admitted it was the alternator!
lol, try watching it in 2x speed, you wont hear a word after the start, the speed/frame drops his facial expressions will have you laughing too hard... yes I do tend to watch most everything at 1.5 to 2x ;)
Really nice video the only thing I have such a hard time is reading the wiring digram ( would be really nice if you had to run the pen and telling which wiring are u talk about ) all that j some thing was super confusing ! But thanks really loved the video
Hi Tommy, another nice video. I think the freewheeling pulley is there to stop 'flutter' of the drive belt or a wave being set up in the belt. I guess it relates to the weight of the rotor having inertia as the engine idles and it wanting to continue at the same speed while the motor is accelerating and decelerating slightly at each power stroke. These pulleys tend to seize up here in the U.K. and if the vehicle has a hydraulic power steering pump, the drive belt will squeal on full lock if the alternator pulley is seized up. Not sure why it does that, I guess it's to do with the extra load on full lock combined with the pulley not working. I see your good friend Scanner Danner is distressed about RUclips's poor handling of it's closing down paid channels. Seems so unfair to him. (Paul if your watching, don't worry, we love you and we'll follow wherever you go. You're an inspiration to us all)
Another great video thanks,we get quite a few of those pulleys seizing and then it just acts like a regular pulley,the symptoms are the belt vibrates like a bad tensioner,nice work thanks for sharing👍👍
Hi! Hopefully you will read this in notifications as I need some advice. I have the same car, though mine is the 3.6L 4Motion V6 and is a 2008 model. The battery light in mine comes on if the temp outside is (usually) above 80-85 degrees or if the car runs for more than 20 minutes. There is no change in power or lights dimming... (power steering feels a bit tighter when this happens). I can turn the car off then restart. It does so with no hesitation, as you would expect with a car charging problem. About 2 weeks ago, on a 95 degree day, after sitting in traffic, the alternator (presumably) started making this ungodly squeal/scream... not like a belt slipping... much louder. This would happen when sitting still. Once the accelerator was applied, the noise stopped. I pulled off the road and sprayed a bit of belt dressing on the belt itself, but it did nothing to improve the situation. I parked it for 25-30 minutes, started again with no problem, the noise was gone. I have owned this car for a year. It has 201,xxx miles and was a one owner. Mileage was highway, as the previous owner is a Congressman in my state who drove c.120 miles per day, several days a week to the state capital. Cost new was $42,000 (in 2008) and the car was maintained through the dealership (who refuses to share records, btw). The car has an idling issue, too, but hasn't been bad enough to take to take to the garage. The engine light stays on (because of the up and down idle). Other possibly pertinent info... The battery is in the trunk and is about 2 times the size of a normal battery. There are ZERO reliable auto repair guys locally who I would trust to work on a German car and I POSITIVELY can't afford to take it to the dealership. This is my and my handicapped Aunt's ONLY means of transportation. I, too, am disabled. I also babysit my 4 Grandchildren a few times a week. I drive 20 miles in each direction to pick them up on M-W-F. Not sure if any of this info is relevant, but there it is, just in case. You seem to know a thing or ten about cars and are thorough in tracing under-hood issues to the root, hence the reason I am asking your opinion and for some advice. Thanks in advance for any help you can be. Have a great day!
I just had a problem with a alternator on a 2011 BMW 528i we install 2 aftermarket alternators and both charge good but were causing problems with the can bus and setting up codes for engine oil level sensor and radiator fan well I did convinced the boss to get the OE alternator and yes it cost about $900 but no problems after no codes
Where are you located? My car is doing same thing. Alt is good all fuses good won't jump off. I'm thinking ignition switch or something else electrical. It was saying a door was open that wasn't and doing weird stuff after I jumped it when it wold jump now it won't
I've had experience on these VW alternators with 2 wires before, and the DFM wire seems to be a "Digital Field Monitor" reporting back to the ECM alternator load by means of a 0-12v square wave, & the ECM has no control over this wire it just sees a longer time at 0v as a greater alternator load reported. If there's a charging fault you wont get an alternator DTC as the ECM has no control over the charging system, the regulation is internal to the alternator - is that the case here or does the wire to the BCM have some control?
I think your right. It is internally regulated. And the signal we looked at was the dfm not a control. Not sure about the other wire going to the bcm maybe it's a Lin bus. I will do some checks on a known good car
Positive Lead Diagnostics you'll find that the wire to the BCM is exactly the same one that would go to the cluster light on the older 3B Passat hence the 1 volt KOEO - this 1 volt would have ground the light KOEO and jumped to 11-12v on run if it's the kind of Bosch system I'm thinking of...
There is a fuse between the big cable from the alternator that goes the the fusebox. If we check battery voltage at the battery and voltage at the alternator post and they are the same, is the fuse good?
Got to love it when the customer can't afford a new / rebuilt alternator. =) 90% of the guys that drive Touaregs or Allroads can't afford to maintain them.
Too many people are driving / leasing cars that their bank account can't maintain... those two models are just the common favorites. Audi A6's & A8's in general as well. Passat's with W8 engines get dumped as soon as the engine needs work. In all cases, the owner could easily get by with a smaller sedan or hatchback... but the North American mentality of bigger is better, seems to take a hold of people's common sense. =)
That's so True Thomas.. You have no idea How many times we go thru that at lincoln... Oh does the warranty cover that?Can't affod tha right now.Blah Blah Blah Lets lease another
I have a 2008 Volkswagen Passat 2.0T and today is just shut off while I was driving. The battery light came on. I parked the car, took the keys out of the ignition. Restarted it and it came right back on. The battery light went off. And it was fine. Has this happened to anyone else? Do I need to go get it looked at?
Positive Lead Diagnostics 🤣 Thanks for the great content buddy. I’m from the UK and I’ve been binge watching your videos while in isolation. Keep up the good work, I hope to see some new stuff soon. 👍🏻👍🏻
I screwed up with the circuit design. The square wave is from the alternator and is sent to the ecm. And is only monitored by the ecm. The alternator is internally regulated. The ecm has no control/command. Basically when your doing your checks power ground and charging wire and checking the pulley
Good job, very thorough in being confident that it was in fact the alternator and not faulty wiring. Keep the videos coming
I don't know if it's you, or RUclips, but the sound sync is off. It's a bit annoying!
Great video! I must say, you went a bit further than I would have gone!! The last few mins of the vid, I was armchair quarter backing, "THE ALTERNATOR IS BAD!! Just change the alternator"!! But, I sat down now!! I put the pin back in the grenade!! I released the hostages!! I feel better now, that you admitted it was the alternator!
lol, try watching it in 2x speed, you wont hear a word after the start, the speed/frame drops his facial expressions will have you laughing too hard... yes I do tend to watch most everything at 1.5 to 2x ;)
Really nice video the only thing I have such a hard time is reading the wiring digram ( would be really nice if you had to run the pen and telling which wiring are u talk about ) all that j some thing was super confusing !
But thanks really loved the video
Hi Tommy, another nice video. I think the freewheeling pulley is there to stop 'flutter' of the drive belt or a wave being set up in the belt. I guess it relates to the weight of the rotor having inertia as the engine idles and it wanting to continue at the same speed while the motor is accelerating and decelerating slightly at each power stroke. These pulleys tend to seize up here in the U.K. and if the vehicle has a hydraulic power steering pump, the drive belt will squeal on full lock if the alternator pulley is seized up. Not sure why it does that, I guess it's to do with the extra load on full lock combined with the pulley not working. I see your good friend Scanner Danner is distressed about RUclips's poor handling of it's closing down paid channels. Seems so unfair to him. (Paul if your watching, don't worry, we love you and we'll follow wherever you go. You're an inspiration to us all)
Another great video thanks,we get quite a few of those pulleys seizing and then it just acts like a regular pulley,the symptoms are the belt vibrates like a bad tensioner,nice work thanks for sharing👍👍
Well done again, Tom.
Nice diagnostic and explanation Tom. Thanks!
Hi! Hopefully you will read this in notifications as I need some advice. I have the same car, though mine is the 3.6L 4Motion V6 and is a 2008 model. The battery light in mine comes on if the temp outside is (usually) above 80-85 degrees or if the car runs for more than 20 minutes. There is no change in power or lights dimming... (power steering feels a bit tighter when this happens). I can turn the car off then restart. It does so with no hesitation, as you would expect with a car charging problem. About 2 weeks ago, on a 95 degree day, after sitting in traffic, the alternator (presumably) started making this ungodly squeal/scream... not like a belt slipping... much louder. This would happen when sitting still. Once the accelerator was applied, the noise stopped. I pulled off the road and sprayed a bit of belt dressing on the belt itself, but it did nothing to improve the situation. I parked it for 25-30 minutes, started again with no problem, the noise was gone. I have owned this car for a year. It has 201,xxx miles and was a one owner. Mileage was highway, as the previous owner is a Congressman in my state who drove c.120 miles per day, several days a week to the state capital. Cost new was $42,000 (in 2008) and the car was maintained through the dealership (who refuses to share records, btw). The car has an idling issue, too, but hasn't been bad enough to take to take to the garage. The engine light stays on (because of the up and down idle). Other possibly pertinent info... The battery is in the trunk and is about 2 times the size of a normal battery. There are ZERO reliable auto repair guys locally who I would trust to work on a German car and I POSITIVELY can't afford to take it to the dealership. This is my and my handicapped Aunt's ONLY means of transportation. I, too, am disabled. I also babysit my 4 Grandchildren a few times a week. I drive 20 miles in each direction to pick them up on M-W-F. Not sure if any of this info is relevant, but there it is, just in case. You seem to know a thing or ten about cars and are thorough in tracing under-hood issues to the root, hence the reason I am asking your opinion and for some advice. Thanks in advance for any help you can be. Have a great day!
Exselecte diagnostic amigo
Well done Mr. Wolf
good on Tommy,thanku for sharing.cheeeers
Good idea to disconnect the voltage reg. and create a fault to check wiring.
I just had a problem with a alternator on a 2011 BMW 528i we install 2 aftermarket alternators and both charge good but were causing problems with the can bus and setting up codes for engine oil level sensor and radiator fan well I did convinced the boss to get the OE alternator and yes it cost about $900 but no problems after no codes
I think the reason for a clutch pulley on alternator is designed to prevent damage to engine in case alternator ever seizes up. I could be wrong.
Where are you located? My car is doing same thing. Alt is good all fuses good won't jump off. I'm thinking ignition switch or something else electrical. It was saying a door was open that wasn't and doing weird stuff after I jumped it when it wold jump now it won't
I've had experience on these VW alternators with 2 wires before, and the DFM wire seems to be a "Digital Field Monitor" reporting back to the ECM alternator load by means of a 0-12v square wave, & the ECM has no control over this wire it just sees a longer time at 0v as a greater alternator load reported. If there's a charging fault you wont get an alternator DTC as the ECM has no control over the charging system, the regulation is internal to the alternator - is that the case here or does the wire to the BCM have some control?
I think your right. It is internally regulated. And the signal we looked at was the dfm not a control. Not sure about the other wire going to the bcm maybe it's a Lin bus. I will do some checks on a known good car
Positive Lead Diagnostics you'll find that the wire to the BCM is exactly the same one that would go to the cluster light on the older 3B Passat hence the 1 volt KOEO - this 1 volt would have ground the light KOEO and jumped to 11-12v on run if it's the kind of Bosch system I'm thinking of...
wtf?!
@@zvonimirbobicex-4962 😱🤯🤔 lmao
@@PositiveLeadDiagnostics The wire goes to BCM is not likely a LIN wire. As all LIN alternator has only two wires,one is LIN,the other is B+ wire.
Does this vehicle use an alternator fuse? If so, why would you not check the alternator fuse first as a step in the troubleshooting process?
There is a fuse between the big cable from the alternator that goes the the fusebox. If we check battery voltage at the battery and voltage at the alternator post and they are the same, is the fuse good?
Nice thorough diagnosis. Cheers!
Got to love it when the customer can't afford a new / rebuilt alternator. =)
90% of the guys that drive Touaregs or Allroads can't afford to maintain them.
Interesting observation about the owners of those models. Are they more expensive to maintain than other models for some reason?
Too many people are driving / leasing cars that their bank account can't maintain... those two models are just the common favorites. Audi A6's & A8's in general as well. Passat's with W8 engines get dumped as soon as the engine needs work. In all cases, the owner could easily get by with a smaller sedan or hatchback... but the North American mentality of bigger is better, seems to take a hold of people's common sense. =)
Oh come on Thomas, don't you know, with 7 year financing you can afford anything! lol
LOL!
That's so True Thomas..
You have no idea How many times we go thru that at lincoln...
Oh does the warranty cover that?Can't affod tha right now.Blah Blah Blah
Lets lease another
I have a problem with dinimo giving me electricity plus what's the solution even though I changed 2
I have a 2008 Volkswagen Passat 2.0T and today is just shut off while I was driving. The battery light came on. I parked the car, took the keys out of the ignition. Restarted it and it came right back on. The battery light went off. And it was fine. Has this happened to anyone else? Do I need to go get it looked at?
Did u fix the problem? Happened to me on my 2010 cc
well done.
Are you a vw tech?or general mechanic/technician
Are you the humble mechanic's twin brother?
🤣🤣 no. But I could be mistaken for it
😎
Until the steering wheel laghit caught
man , you got to get a home loan for an Alternator? o these days and times HAHA
Where are your safety glasses?! 😱
Idk!?!? Lol
Positive Lead Diagnostics 🤣 Thanks for the great content buddy. I’m from the UK and I’ve been binge watching your videos while in isolation. Keep up the good work, I hope to see some new stuff soon. 👍🏻👍🏻
Hopefully soon. I Atleast have some time to edit now. Thanks for the support. Stay safe
Can’t wait!
You’re welcome 👍🏻
You too!!
watchin this vid again n again..and i still dont get it..(whatever, i m stupid)
I screwed up with the circuit design. The square wave is from the alternator and is sent to the ecm. And is only monitored by the ecm. The alternator is internally regulated. The ecm has no control/command. Basically when your doing your checks power ground and charging wire and checking the pulley
ah, no big deal Tommy..i learned a ton from your other vids