Ich freu mich schon darauf die LR V3 auf V4 umzubauen. Haben die Rohre und Rails bei der V4 die gleiche Größe oder sind die etwas länger oder kürzer bei gleicher Fräßfläche?
Hello. Great video! I have an lr3 in the same size as yours. What do you feel are the biggest advantages of the new model? I have the extra high yz plates now and I really like the extra accessibility of the cutter and that you can process slightly thicker material. What is the hight on lr4 ? Vs lr3 orginal
Hey Josef, the LR4 is much, much more stiff than the LR3 was. I would never have cut those speeds with the LR3. You are probably going to have the option to just use longer linear rails, though it is not really recommended (as with the LR3). Rather go for a drop table. The standard height seems to be roughly the same, but I think there might be some more changes coming that I don't know anything about. :)
@@aaamott The most basic version is to raise the sides and just stack a few boards on top of each other and remove one or two if you need to cut deeper. If you want it more complicated you can build a table where the spoilboard can be lowered. It has been done, but not very often because most people realize they don't need that depth (there are only very few endmills who can actually cut that deep).
The box looks great, but I think that the roofpart is to weak to withstand wind. Making slots in the profile for the windows to slide into couldn't be to hard on a cnc router like you have, could it?
Slots would mean the wood would have to be absolutely flat and the quality of the plywood isn't that great. Also, with slots, the material would be pretty thin at those places and would rather break than what I did with the 3D-printed holders for the windshield. The rest of the windows is screwed on the frame, they don't budge. :)
Klar, ich bin gerade noch dabei, den Dust Shoe anzupassen (der noch im Test ist, darum kann ich da noch nicht sagen, wie es nachher läuft), da die AMB wegen der vorstehenden Schraubkanäle an der Fräse etwas nach vorne gezogen werden muss und nicht mittig sitzt. Ich musste auch ein kleines Stück Pappe in die obere Halterung stecken, damit sie gerade ist, musste in den STLs rumpfuschen. Mit den STEP-Dateien wird es dann irgendwann einfacher. Vielleicht ist das auch nicht nötig, geht eigentlich ganz gut. :D
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Good job, your children will love this awesome build!
Awesome project! And I see you just had to go a little faster than me LOL Great job!
Yeah, you can have the first completed Beta machine, but I am faster. Neoooooooooow. :P You basically challenged me (by going faster than me). :D
@@HaWiWe I just went what you challenged me to do LOL. Now change that thing over to RC and help us continue the Beta!!! 🤣
@@NorthWoodsCustomCreations I am completely broke, I bought another table saw... don't ask... -_-
Ich freu mich schon darauf die LR V3 auf V4 umzubauen. Haben die Rohre und Rails bei der V4 die gleiche Größe oder sind die etwas länger oder kürzer bei gleicher Fräßfläche?
Awesome! 🎉
Impressive! 🙂
Heh, nice of you to swing by, little brother. :)
Hello. Great video! I have an lr3 in the same size as yours. What do you feel are the biggest advantages of the new model? I have the extra high yz plates now and I really like the extra accessibility of the cutter and that you can process slightly thicker material. What is the hight on lr4 ? Vs lr3 orginal
Hey Josef, the LR4 is much, much more stiff than the LR3 was. I would never have cut those speeds with the LR3. You are probably going to have the option to just use longer linear rails, though it is not really recommended (as with the LR3). Rather go for a drop table. The standard height seems to be roughly the same, but I think there might be some more changes coming that I don't know anything about. :)
@@HaWiWe interesting thank you for your answer
@@HaWiWe I keep seeing references to a drop table, but can't find anything showing how one works. I assume it just lowers the part?
@@aaamott The most basic version is to raise the sides and just stack a few boards on top of each other and remove one or two if you need to cut deeper.
If you want it more complicated you can build a table where the spoilboard can be lowered. It has been done, but not very often because most people realize they don't need that depth (there are only very few endmills who can actually cut that deep).
The box looks great, but I think that the roofpart is to weak to withstand wind. Making slots in the profile for the windows to slide into couldn't be to hard on a cnc router like you have, could it?
Slots would mean the wood would have to be absolutely flat and the quality of the plywood isn't that great. Also, with slots, the material would be pretty thin at those places and would rather break than what I did with the 3D-printed holders for the windshield. The rest of the windows is screwed on the frame, they don't budge. :)
Würdest du mir die STL für die AMB Fräse wieder zur Verfügung stellen?
Klar, ich bin gerade noch dabei, den Dust Shoe anzupassen (der noch im Test ist, darum kann ich da noch nicht sagen, wie es nachher läuft), da die AMB wegen der vorstehenden Schraubkanäle an der Fräse etwas nach vorne gezogen werden muss und nicht mittig sitzt. Ich musste auch ein kleines Stück Pappe in die obere Halterung stecken, damit sie gerade ist, musste in den STLs rumpfuschen. Mit den STEP-Dateien wird es dann irgendwann einfacher. Vielleicht ist das auch nicht nötig, geht eigentlich ganz gut. :D