The information here about not over tightening is invaluable. Anyone trying this for the first time may not have been aware of the "Snapping Off" possibility.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Like I said before, you're the best :) Your presentations communicate ideas and information with solid clarity. I live in Toronto, hopefully I will get to shake your hand one of these days :)
I’m a fairly new diver and I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge, and experience. It's helping me become a more knowledgeable and skilled diver.
Thanks again. I have run into hoses being lose coming out of my gear bag. You might emphasize checking hoses for tightness and leaks at the beginning of the dive season and before you leave on a dive trip. Easier to learn from tech tips then hard knock experience. Once again thanks for doing these. Jim
Not sure if you need to do it every time Eric but certainly occasionally. Every time might be hard on the hoses, depending on what type of protector you have. Some are very stiff and hard to move. And of course, you've not forgotten those silly ones on the second stage swivel. I've seen that swivel ruined by corrosion and they are not cheap!! That protector is there for looks only hence I say silly. Take care. Alec
Thanks for that. Back in the dim dark recesses of my memory I can remember my instructor telling us to pull back those hose protectors as well. He didn't like them either saying they just hid problems.
He was right! I've seen second stage swivels completely corroded and unrepairable. They cost almost $100 to replace - all because of those stupid second stage swivel protectors.
Sage wisdom and advice of a career in scuba industry, of tremendous value to the greater dive community, thank you Alec, greatly appreciated! Please keep making these type of videos, this is the 'stuff' we aren't taught in any Cert courses.👍
great vid as always Alec. I just missed u at birds underwater in Crystal river hope y'all had fun while u were down here and hope the seahunt event when well too safe diving
Came to your channel to answer a question about second stages; ended up watching more vids because your mix of information and humour is perfect! I know that this has been out for quite some time now, but thanks for your great informative videos. :)
I just replaced the regulator hose on my 30 year old USD Conshelf 21 reg. It was easy - no leaks. The best advice I got here was to NOT over tighten the hose at the LP port and to NOT take the LP fitting off the regulator. I was going to take that fitting off to clean it - but changed my mind after watching this - cleaned it on the 2nd.
I'm sure you'll find it will work perfectly. You don't need nor want to do this very often - maybe once a year or every 100 dives. Too often and you run the risk of damaging the threads. Good job! Alec
I replaced the hose because it began to leak - a crack near the LP port fitting. That was the original hose - 29 years old. I think I got my money's worth out of that one. Although I thoroughly rinse the reg - twist it submerged in fresh water to try to get all the salt out of the swivel fitting - there was still considerable oxidation inside the fitting. I am sure you have seen some REALLY corroded ones. I cleaned it as best I could on the 2nd and that was good enough - the new hose o ring sealed fine. It may be a good idea to take the hose off every year or so and clean that fitting - but then that could also damage the o ring? Changing that o ring would be a challenge without the right tool.
Mr. Alec I just want to say thank you for the knowledge! I have been rec diving for only 6 years. I average about 18 dives a year with 12 or so being in the same week in pretty blue water annually. I have my gear serviced every year before that week. I have found, like with most things these days, you don't always get what you pay for. So to protect the wife and I, I am finding my self doing more service to my gear and purchasing back up items to insure a pleasant week diving. So Thank you for teaching me a ton of things. I look forward to watching all of your videos and reading the FAQ's from fellow divers. Congrats on your retirement and please keep the knowledge coming I appreciate YOU. (PS without reading your FAQ's I would have put silicone grease on everything on a new BC hose :-) Brian from Ark/La
Can't thank you enough for all the good videos.....my wife is getting back into diving & we watch your videos on (all)your subjects....really good & entertaining!! :-)
Mr Peirce! Thank you for the wonderful tutorials. Getting golden tips off the books via your splendid experiences servicing, diving and good old days. I’ve just identified your RUclips today and will subscribe and learn LOADS of things from you. Will be changing my hoses by myself tomorrow, identify the leak, inspect the condition of the O Rings and test it out firmly. I was lucky enough to see your videos before I (imagine) fixing it myself that might damage my parts. Again, thank you for the tutorials and sending respects from Malaysia. Ferdy.
Hi Alec This Video helps a lot. I just changed settings for holidays (sea water, one 1.Stage). Normally I dive with two 1. Stages in Freshwaterlakes of Europe (because of the risk of iced 1. Stages). The Setting is not easy and i did it wrong the first time (the hose to the drysuit and the hose to BCD from the same 1.Stage...). This would lead to loss of buoyancy control, if one 1.Stage has to be turned temporarily off in case of an iced system. And then there is the problem of space and best hose setup... A tectipp would probably safe a lot of time screwing and checking. I'll keep on watching and learning. Thanks a lot for checking Yours Peter
Some divers use a separate pony bottle for their drysuit for the same reasons - it lowers the risk of a freeze-up and doesn't use the diver's breathing air. For those not aware of this issue, the Adiabatic internal temperature drop in a scuba reg is related to the volume of air passing through it (among other things). If you are breathing through your primary regulator, your buddy is using your safe second, you are adding air to your BCD and to your dry suit, there's a lot of air passing through the first stage and that will cause a significant drop in temperature. If it's already in cold water, it is much more likely to ''freeze-up'. I put freeze-up in single quotation marks to indicate that it is not a totally correct term. The regulator doesn't really freeze. The moisture in the air freezes (yes, there is moisture in air - even scuba air) and the resulting ice causes a free-low that exacerbates the process into a full blown freeze-up. However, that's a topic for another vid. Thanks for your comment. Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba Tanks a lot Alec for your answer. Your Video give a lot of good ideas and useful tips. I would like to have not only the basics but also the advanced technical part. Anyway keep on rocking!
Hello, The material was presented in a very nice and precise way and coincides nicely with the training i have received years before. I hope to have more time soon to look at all videos that you have posted. Thank you for your efforts to educate us divers. From a new fan from Finland
Hey Alec, I watch your Tip videos from when I have the opportunity. I think there great and an important service you provide for divers to have an enjoyable dive without problems. Can you help me with my problem...I need to change out the HP hose on my pressure gauge because it leaks. The pressure gauge is in a console, along with the computer, and compass on the backside of the console. The setup is the Aqua Lung i300c. Thanks for your help. Steve
You will need to take the SPG out of the console. Be careful! Many consoles are synthetic & will crack is bent too much. Soak the entire console in warm, soapy water for a short while. Then it should bend enough that the top of the SPG will protrude so you can get a finger under it. Pull the gauge gently out and stretch out the hose so you can then replace the swivel pin. Good luck. Alec
Hi Alex I've seen the wing bcd video but can you please do a video on hybrid bcd's (would you purchase one as your first bcd over a stab jacket) in terms of value/ practicality
Thank you so much Alec. Your videos are an inspiration to me. I'm working on hooking up something called an AirBuddy to my BCD and I need to change my hoses out to make this contraption work lol. If everything goes right I'm actually going to make a video on how to do it.
Hello Alec, very nice video, useful as always! I would like to hear your opinion on those hose protection things like spiral wraps or silicone tubes, which basically designed to protect the whole hose, and not only connection part. Idk, from my perspective it's almost useless, never seen those on pro divers equipment, but maybe you have different opinion on that.
Hi Alec thank you for another amazing tech tip. my inquiry is regarding lubricating the threads. is that necessary and if so can you elaborate more on it. Thank you
Not really. A very slight smear of silicon grease can't hurt but you run the risk of putting grease on the O-Ring which is not good. Assuming the O-Ring is new and in good shape (which it should be if you're changing hoses), it should not be greased or it can extrude and leak. So if you feel compelled to grease the threads, put the tiniest smear on the very end of the threads so the grease won't reach the O-Ring. Note that the hoses are only put in with low torque so the likelihood of them seizing is almost nil. They don't need grease to protect them nor to facilitate their insertion or removal. Thanks for watching. Alec
That will work. Thank you, I just received a regulator set from E-bay described as, "great condition". Never mind that pesky leak on the SPG hose. Well, now I know what to do.
I buy and sell a lot of eBay. My eBay ID is seahunter. "Great Condition" is a very subjective opinion. However, so long as the reg is not badly corroded it can be made like new. Thanks for watching. Alec
Mr Peirce Thanks for your wonderful videos ! I'm a comercial diver , I usually dive in cero visibility conditions. I would like to know if there's any "new" device for underwater navigation with audio (there's no way to see , so maybe there's audio or digital mask to read heading, or other important information. Thank you!
Wow! Wouldn't that be great. For several years I did work for a fellow who installed those big fancy fountains in public ponds. The water looks wonderful from a distance but up close, like in it, the water was the dirtiest I've ever experienced. I learned to close my eyes and go by feel only. With my eyes open, I was always trying to see - an impossibility. Closing them allowed me to concentrate my thoughts and senses on the job. Never heard of any kind of sound device for underwater other than a couple of short distance, handheld sonars. I'm sure it will appear in the future. Good luck. Alec
+ Tabucito -- The US Navy is working with Kirby Morgan to develop a "Diver Augmented Vision Display" that can display information in the diver's field of vision. Here's a short article you might find of interest: www.newsfactor.com/story.xhtml?story_id=0200021SL1C0
Alec Peirce Scuba Thank you for the comments and your interesting videos ! One of my "missions" is recording videos muddy water for engeneers ... i will share a video . thank you !
Alec, First, congratulations on your retirement. I have a question about when to get my regulator set serviced. I have watched all of your videos on maintenance and cleaning the first stage and octo and I follow them religiously after every dive. I am trying to understand if this maintenance precludes the need to get the regulator overhauled every year by a certified technician, or if the yearly service done by a dive shop is necessary or even just prudent. Thanks, Josh
Your question is loaded with 'ifs' Joshua and I'll likely draw some fire but, here goes ... The short answer is that the only reason to take your regulator for an annual service is to keep the warranty in place. If that's not a concern and if you don't dive a lot and if you carefully rinse the reg after every use you probably can easily get by with a check every 2 or even 3 years. And find a dive store that will do a Check-Up, not a full service. If it's in good shape and working well, you don't need to spend $150+ for a full service. That would be like replacing your car tires because they're dirty! Note that all manufacturers used to require a 1 year service period. That has changed now for most big brands to a 2 year service interval. This was done without any change to the regulator so obviously they feel that every 2 years is OK. Also note that a regulator just sitting around can deteriorate - seats take a set, diaphragms and exhaust valves dry out and so on. If it hasn't been used for along time, say 1 year or more, get it checked out. Hope this helps. Alec
Is it possible to “retrain” the bend in a reg hose? I have a new reg and the hose’s natural bend forces it down onto my shoulder. I’d like to make this bend go up and away from me. Thanks for the great video!
There should be no permanent bend in a rubber or miflex hose. Maybe hang it staring overnight to see if it straightens out. if not check for air leaks causing it to bend. If in doubt get it replaced (maybe warranty?) with a new one. A
Hey ALec, any tips in changing the regulator hoses from Scubapro, they dont have the conventional hexanut set up and have some silly toothed thing. Cheers!
You must have a Scubapro tool to change their hoses. I know, I know. A pair of pliers will work but what a mess!!! The threads are the same as all other hoses so you can put any hose onto a Scubapro reg that you want. But to remove or install a Scubapro hose, you need the tool to grab the splines on the outside. It has no hex as you say. You can get the tool in 2 ways. Scubapro has a reg Universal Tool with several parts for doing a bunch of different things - things you'll never do yourself. It costs $50-$60. Or you can get a splined tool just for the hose fitting. It's about $20-$25. scuba-clinic-tools.com/products/scubapro-splined-wrench If you buy a tool, be sure it's metal. The plastic ones will break pretty easily. The best source for regulator tools is Scubatools.com . Nice people, good prices, high quality and they have everything. And don't go crazy when you tighten them. They are O-ring sealed. Just firm pressure. It's not an engine head bolt!! Hope this helps Alec
Hi Alec thank you for your videos thank you for your tips!!!!! Its not in the book. YOU ARE THE BOOK!!!! PLEASE IF CAN DO A VIDEO FOR HOW TO SERVICE A REGULATOR AND FOR PROBLEMS THAT HAPPEN THANK YOU
Thanks Yiannis. I have been making vids on servicing the reg. I have to go slowly for the non-mechanical divers. Working on it. i suspect that eventually we'll a complete reg overhaul in the vids. Alec
On what o rings would silicon grease be used I was always taught to grease o-rings Obviously not on scuba but pneumatic and hydronic fittings I have a leaking high pressure hose and have ordered a new one and was planning on greasing it until I read a reply to a previous comment advising not greasing the oring Love your videos
Assuming the O-ring on the regulator end of your new hose is fresh, it should NOT be lubricated. Particularly on HP fittings, lubrication may lead to extrusion of the O-ring. You can check the O-ring by simply looking at it under a good light. It should look glossy, not flat or dull. The HP hose fitting has a static O-ring so it does not move once installed. It does not need lube. Alec
HEY ALEC GLAD TO SEE YOU ARE VERY ACTIVE AND VERY FAST AT ANSWERING!!! Wheres your shop at? So i do not need thread tape where the hoses hook up? There are O-rings for every line or should be? Any certain type of O-ring rubber i need since cheap china orings are the easiest to find when in a bind. This vid is Solid Gold like most of your vids and im glad you reminded me not to overtighten! :)
I sold my last scuba shop and retired from the business a few years ago. These videos are how I share my experience with divers everywhere. As for tape, modern regs do not need any tape, anywhere. The o-ring is what seals hoses tight, not metal-on-metal. Yes, there are specific o-rings for each hose and connection. O-rings specifications are standardized so don't use home or auto o-rings for scuba. Look at my videos on 0-rings for detailed explanations about this. As for cheap o-rings, is your life worth 10 cents more for a name brand vs unknown ring? Glad to help show that strength is NOT needed when tightening hoses. Thanks for watching. A
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter would 1 double valve scubatank with 2 first stages attached be as safe as, 2 tanks with a single valve each and a first stage on each tank? Know what i mean? Cause here in Germany they all use the double Valve single tanks with 2 first stages! But i saw in the States some prefer 2 tanks with the whole setup on each tank! Which is safer? The Germans also tried to tell me the freezing can occur in the tank valve and not the First Stage. What do you think?
Hi Mr Peirce thanks for yet another great video, what's your thoughts on that i/we should perhaps apply a little O'ring grease or vaseline on the fittings before sliding the hose protectors into place? Would that help protect the fitting ect a little more or cause more problems in between cleaning intervals?? Regards Stuart
Be careful with Vaseline. Some brands have petroleum-based products in them. Use real O-ring grease. It doesn't have to be food grade. Putting some grease on the tubing and outside of the fitting will allow you to put the hose protector on and off more easily and it might slow corrosion of the fitting. Don't make the mistake of lubing the O-ring as most divers do. A new O-ring should NOT be greased. That just facilitates extrusion of the ring. Many new O-rings, such as for cameras, are not supposed to be greased at all! If you feel compelled to grease the hose ends when installing them, you are probably suffering from silicon addiction. Just the smallest amount, just a light smear, not even a dab, on the threads is OK. If you can see the grease on your fingers before you smear the threads, it's too much. Look at the O-ring in the light. If the O-ring is shiny, glossy, it's good. Do not grease it. Take care. Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba sorry I think I may have misled you a little with my question there, I wasn't suggesting that it would be a good idea to fill the hose protector and threads with grease I merely thought a light coating of O'ring grease before sliding the protector into place might help I didn't mean that in should be filled with grease. But thanks for telling us about how we should be greasing camera seals.. Thanks Alec..
No, No Stuart. I knew what you meant. No confusion. I just wanted to be sure you didn't fall into the 'silicon grease trap'! Or that our discussion didn't feed that incorrect notion. Too many divers have decided that, if a bit of grease is good, a LOT of grease is better. Take care. Alec
I linked this video for someone to watch, and ended up watching it myself again. One thing I wanted to add is that I am increasingly seeing more metric hose ends. I changed a SPG hose the other day, and my usual SAE wrenches didn't fit perfectly on the new hose, but when I used metric wrenches they did. I think this is probably fallout from the US based hose manufacturer, Danicorp, closing.
I really wanna get rid of the rubber hose on my Octopus, it is heavy and not flexible at all. Those flex hoses are the best choice. And plus, because of the low-pressure port on my "Kraken" is so close to the intake hose, I can't even put the hose protector on because there is no room to put on a hose protector between the intake hose and the low-pressure port. I might have to change it to flex hose for my safe second.
Mr. Alec, would it be better or worse to remove the hoses from the first stage if the gear will be stored for 3 months or longer? Just put the port plugs in place, the hoses can be coiled better and the first stage can be placed inside a thick pouch to provide better protection during storage or travel. Assemble again only when preparing for a dive trip and keeping on hand spare o-rings and tools.
Gosh that's a lot of work. It wouldn't be bad but I don't think it's necessary. If the reg is rinsed of all salt and dried well, just coil it lightly and seal it in a ZipLoc bag. I actually suck out the air in the bag that I use. I'd be concerned about messing up the threads on all the hose ends by taking them in and out repeatedly. Not a bad idea - just unnecessary I think. Alec
Hi Alec. I really enjoy you videos and thank you for sharing your knowledge. I just replaced a hose on primary. I followed your instructions using two wrenches etc. After I was done the reg would free flow as soon as the air was turned on, not even submerged. It had to be adjusted to correct it. Whilst replacing the hose I noticed the fitting may have moved ever so slightly and I tried to ensured it was exactly as it was when attaching the new hose. If that fitting moves slightly (if it did it is no more than 1/8 of a turn) can that cause the free flow. Thanks for any advice you may offer.
Oh yeah! A 1/8th turn is more than enough to make a reg freeflow. What regulator is it? Normally a reg won't dis-adjust (dis-adjust?? Like that. I love English. If you don't know the right word, make one up. It works!) jusy be changing the hose unless it's a DACOR. Alec
Are hose protectors necessary to buy? My new regulator set didn't come with any on the hoses. Would it be better to add them or leave the hoses the way they are? Thanks! I enjoy your videos.
If your reg hoses are the usual rubber style, hose protectors are a good idea. I always put them on new regs for my customers. If the customer didn't want to pay the $10 for them (4 @ $2.50), I put them on anyway at no charge. It simply saved the aggravation later when he came back with a torn or frayed hose at the metal ferrule by the first stage. If you are VERY careful when packing and using your reg to ensure the hoses are never bent too sharply, you might be OK but I've seen helpful boat divemasters bend them or even drop them. I think they're a good idea. Don't forget to rinse underneath them occasionally. Alec
The hose goes into a threaded fitting that is just pressed into the plastic second stage housing. It is easy to break the plastic at that point if too much force is applied. US Divers has a very big problem with that several years ago. To avoid it hold the nut as you loosen or tighten the hose. Alec
Hi Alec, just a quick question, I saw your video on the flex hoses so I decided to replace my two regulator low pressure hoses. I ordered the yellow octopus and I ordered a red for my second stage, but when I went to change out the second stage, the connection on the new hose was smaller than on the first stage port, so I was wondering why that is, if you have any idea. I thought I ordered the right hose the description called it a second stage flex hose. Thanks
Hmmm. The only possibility that I can think of is that your regulator "features" 1/2" LP ports. A very few manufacturers made the LP ports larger on the premise that it would give the diver more air. Of course, the hope was that divers would buy their regulators. Pretty silly actually since the standard 3/8" ports will supply enough air for 5 divers at the same time! Plus, having a larger port but then forcing that air flow into the same size small hose offers no advantage at all. If that's the case, you will need to exchange the hose for ones with a 1/2" male end or, buy an adapter that's available from any dive store. They may not have it in stock but they can order it for you from Trident Dive - Catalog #AA48. Let me know. Alec
Hi Alec, thanks for all your videos. I recently bought a new regulator, trying to put my old SPG and octopus on the new first stage, but my old gear are all salted and a bit corrosion under the hose protector. I will try some warm water and vinegar to clean it. Can I get some suggestions from you?
You're on the right track. Warm soapy water. Rinse well. If it's badly corroded a bit of vinegar will help or try that CLR stuff from a hardware store. Just rinse lots and use some silicon grease on the rubber parts and threads. Oh and get new O-Rings for those hoses. They're cheap. Good luck. Alec
Alec, I have a scubapro mk11-c350 that is brand new and before I use it I'd like to replace the hose with a mifex swivel. Scubapro claims they use a "super-flow" hose. Should I anticipate any changes in ambient airflow to second stage (by switching hoses) and therefore a need to adjust second stage prior to use? Thanks for your help!
Nope. Changing the hose does NOT affect the relationship between the first stage and second stage. "Super Flow", "Hi-Flow" or any other kind of hose described as being better by giving you more air is a marketing gimmick. These hoses may have a larger diameter but the difference is marginal. Modern hoses supply more air than you and 2 more divers could suck from a new reg. Thanks for watching. Alec
Hi MDO most dive certification companies offer a 're activation' course. these courses are designed to remind you of all those little safety practices that make diving safe and fun. Deffintly worth doing.
Alec, what are your thoughts on using hose protectors with flex hoses? I'm thinking of removing them from my gear, and have received conflicting opinions on whether or not that's a good idea. Thanx!
Funny you ask. I don't recommend hose protectors with flex hoses. Some dealers will freak at this but surely their business doesn't depend on sales of hose protectors! Flex hoses are so flexible that they are less likely to bend and tear at the metal end. Since one of their biggest benefits is their light weight it doesn't make sense to put a rubber hose protector on it., I've been using them that way for over 4 years with many dives and no hint of a problem. Alec
I just bought a brand new rig and noticed the octo second stage swivel dose not swivel as well as the primary. Is this normal? Or should I take it in to get adjusted?
Hi Alec, I recently got a new digital SPG that measures pressure, depth, and temperature. It came with a rubber hose already installed on it from the manufacturer, and I want to replace the rubber hose with a flex hose. However the manufacturer doesn’t recommend using a different hose, because it could void the warranty. What should I do?
Sounds like a great SPG but as for hoses, flex or rubber, the maker should not care unless they specify the exact hose to use. Works like recommend and could are not the same as 'must use'. Suggest email or use their website contact form to clarify if flex hoses are OK or why not. Flex are the standard for all new regs from low to high end so why the issue? Only think I can think of is if an air spool is required to slow the air flow into the SPG to prevent a pressure overload. Check your owners manual but ask anyway. Otherwise a warranty is a good think to have (especially if expensive) but get the makers input first. Never know if there is a really good reason or just old manual that was not updated. A
Hose protectors can be a real pain to install. There are several ways to make it easier. 1. Take it to your LDS. 2. Soak it in hot, soapy water and spray some silicon grease on the hose. That MIGHT help. 3. Buy or make an installation tool. It's a simple rod, 8" long and about 1/2" in diameter with a female (inside) thread on one end that goes onto the hose fitting. Thread it onto the end of the hose. Put the how, soapy protector over it and you can pull the protector onto the hose. You can see one in the Trident catalog on page 34, #SA05. 4. Dive stores use a sophisticated version of that same tool which allows them to install both LP and HP hoses at the same time with little or no effort. It's o the same page in the catalog. They still use hot, soapy water or maybe some silicon grease. Good luck. Alec
Fresh O-Rings in a static position do NOT require lubrication. In fact, lubrication may be detrimental and lead to extrusion and loss of the O-Ring and subsequent harm to the diver. Hose end O-Rings are static. O-Rings in a dynamic position should be lubricated. Swivels, pistons, etc, are dynamic. Now this assumes fresh, new O-Rings and likely synthetic material as most of them are now. Alec
The LP O-rings are NOT subject to wear from dynamic forces or heat or high pressure so they are usually 75 Duro. Even other static O-rings in a scuba regulator are usually 75 Duro. There is no heat, no oxidation, no destructive fluids. Generally you are always best to use original factory-supplied O-rings. They are chosen to do the best job. Here is a link to the best O-Ring manual I've ever seen. If you need to know anything about O-rings, go here: www.physics.harvard.edu/uploads/files/machineshop/epm_oring_handbook.pdf Thanks. Alec
If it's simply in very tight, there is little or no option other than to hold the reg firmly (maybe in a padded vise) and using a good solid proper fitting wrench, force it out. If it does not come out with reasonable force, hold the wrench firmly and strike the end smartly with a solid, non-metal object. Use a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet. At this point it will either release and come out easily or it will break the end fitting off. If it breaks then you will have to remove the piece inside the port which is fairly easy to do with an EZ Out or some other type of broken stud remover. I think the type that looks like a screw is better for this job than the ones you must drill a hole first. There already is a hole so the left-hand screw type of stud remover should work well. I hate to drill since you run the risk of touching th threads in the body. Since you're working with brass, it's all pretty soft so ought to be a straightforward job. Just take your time and work slowly. There is no magic trick to removing a stuck hose. Good luck. Let me know how you do. Alec
It can't hurt although I doubt it will make much difference. What's happened is that the metal hose end fitting has been forced tightly against the regulator body. This hose seals with an O-Ring as you know and the threads actually need to be only hand tight. It will not leak under pressure. However, they should be tightened a bit more than that to ensure they don't work loose. A BIT TIGHTER! Too many divers think they're installing wheels on a pickup and tighten them way too much. Good luck. Alec
You'll need a Scubapro tool to grasp the knurled or ridged nut which is tight against the 2nd stage and a flat wrench to hold the swivel nut. Separate those 2 and you're all set. The swivel comes off the end of the hose easily. You can use slip pliers for the Scubapro knurled nut but you may mark the nut. Alec
thank you so much. I am an instructor who's never had to do the technical part (my husband did it all). Now divorced, i am learning and its great fun through your videos. Bravo for the excellent presentations.
For the best fit stick with Imperial tools but here is the metric conversion: 1/2" = 13mm, 9/16" = 14mm, 5/8" = 16mm. A handy conversion chart here: handtoolessentials.com/blog/tools/wrench-conversions-chart-sae-metric-sizes/ A.
Thanks Alec. Do you have the name of that tool? Also, what if you want to remove the hose that's in the HP port? Where does the tool attach to the 1st stage?
Some O-Rings must be lubricated. Some O-Rings need a very light lube. Some O-Rings (assuming they are fresh) should not be lubed. That's where experience and training become important. Take care. Alec
You can check with Scuba Tools. There are a couple of companies that sell them. They are not cheap but it's not hard to make one yourself. Any good tank valve will do. The 3/4" thread on a tank valve is standard so you can make an adapter to connect it to a hose to run to your own scuba tank as a source of air pressure. Get the parts at any good hardware or gas fitting store. If you have a machinist friend, have him take a 3" square piece of steel and machine a 3/4" thread on one side for the valve and a through hole on the other side for a hose. Just grasp the block of steel in a vise, valve up and hose running to your tank. Alec
If they were checked and show no signs of deterioration, no cracking, no problems at the ends, etc, I'd stick with them. A regulator stored badly may have ruined hoses after just a year or two. Stored carefully, rinsed, dry, in a cool place and sealed in a plastic bag, the hoses will last indefinitely. Trust your dive store on this. They would likely love to sell you new hoses if you needed them. Take care. Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks a lot will mount a new flexible octo hose just in case something goes wrong with the primary hose could you make a Video about buying / using used Gear? (what to look out for, what to avoid) when starting out as a young diver you cant afford everything brand new greetings Robert
what about adding heat shrink tubing to the ends of the hose protector? then you can protect the hose protector, while keeping your hose protected...lol
Interesting idea. I'm more concerned about the hose fitting than the hose protector. If the fitting corrodes you'll have to replace the entire hose - $50+. I use shrink tubing all the time but I don't think it will keep water out. The water will get trapped in there and ruin the fitting. Keep thinking though. Alec
Christo Lube, or any other oxygen-compatible grease, is essential IF the regulator is to be used in EAN (enriched air - higher oxygen content than atmospheric.). Otherwise it is not. Most manufacturers are now recommending the use of O2-compatible grease at all times but that is based on their aversion to liability. That's not bad nor stupid. It's just unnecessary. Many dive stores also insist on the use of O2-compatible grease, partly for the same reason and partly because they make more money by doing so. There is no reason to NOT use O2-compatible grease any more than there is no reason to use racing oil in your Toyota. It will work just fine. Alec
The information here about not over tightening is invaluable.
Anyone trying this for the first time may not have been aware of the "Snapping Off" possibility.
While service pro's know this, many DIY'ers do not and think tighter is better (nope).
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Like I said before, you're the best :) Your presentations communicate ideas and information
with solid clarity. I live in Toronto, hopefully I will get to shake your hand one of these days :)
I’m a fairly new diver and I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge, and experience. It's helping me become a more knowledgeable and skilled diver.
You are so welcome! There is lots to learn and laugh about so take your time.
A
Thanks again. I have run into hoses being lose coming out of my gear bag. You might emphasize checking hoses for tightness and leaks at the beginning of the dive season and before you leave on a dive trip. Easier to learn from tech tips then hard knock experience. Once again thanks for doing these.
Jim
You are the Bob Ross for dive equipment! Thank you for sharing your wisdom Alec
Thanks for this one. Ive been pulling the hose protector back every time I rinse my kit now. Another example of things I didn't know I didn't know!
Not sure if you need to do it every time Eric but certainly occasionally. Every time might be hard on the hoses, depending on what type of protector you have. Some are very stiff and hard to move. And of course, you've not forgotten those silly ones on the second stage swivel. I've seen that swivel ruined by corrosion and they are not cheap!! That protector is there for looks only hence I say silly. Take care. Alec
Thanks for that. Back in the dim dark recesses of my memory I can remember my instructor telling us to pull back those hose protectors as well. He didn't like them either saying they just hid problems.
He was right! I've seen second stage swivels completely corroded and unrepairable. They cost almost $100 to replace - all because of those stupid second stage swivel protectors.
Norm Macdonald does the best SCUBA videos. Excellent!
Norm was a great comedian and all round nice guy. Just like me!
A
Alec we love you and wish you live for ever.
Wow! That's what my grandkids say too. Different reasons I'm guessing.
Thanks for watching. Alec
Alec, thanks again for a great video. Sorry I missed you at Silver Springs. Hopefully I will see and meet you next time.
This is compulsory! I'm happy to know this and to be a blessing to do it myself at home.
Sage wisdom and advice of a career in scuba industry, of tremendous value to the greater dive community, thank you Alec, greatly appreciated! Please keep making these type of videos, this is the 'stuff' we aren't taught in any Cert courses.👍
I appreciate that! More coming Kevin. Hey, your not "my" Kevin are you?
A
great vid as always Alec. I just missed u at birds underwater in Crystal river hope y'all had fun while u were down here and hope the seahunt event when well too safe diving
Aloha Alec - Really enjoy your videos. Mahalo for making them and simplifying the process for us divers who want to learn more.
I'm glad that you are enjoying them and maybe learning some stuff too.
Alec
Came to your channel to answer a question about second stages; ended up watching more vids because your mix of information and humour is perfect! I know that this has been out for quite some time now, but thanks for your great informative videos. :)
Awesome, thank you!
I just replaced the regulator hose on my 30 year old USD Conshelf 21 reg. It was easy - no leaks. The best advice I got here was to NOT over tighten the hose at the LP port and to NOT take the LP fitting off the regulator. I was going to take that fitting off to clean it - but changed my mind after watching this - cleaned it on the 2nd.
I'm sure you'll find it will work perfectly.
You don't need nor want to do this very often - maybe once a year or every 100 dives.
Too often and you run the risk of damaging the threads.
Good job!
Alec
I replaced the hose because it began to leak - a crack near the LP port fitting. That was the original hose - 29 years old. I think I got my money's worth out of that one. Although I thoroughly rinse the reg - twist it submerged in fresh water to try to get all the salt out of the swivel fitting - there was still considerable oxidation inside the fitting. I am sure you have seen some REALLY corroded ones. I cleaned it as best I could on the 2nd and that was good enough - the new hose o ring sealed fine. It may be a good idea to take the hose off every year or so and clean that fitting - but then that could also damage the o ring? Changing that o ring would be a challenge without the right tool.
I find it entertaining to watch your videos. So laid back and enjoyable!
Thanks Matthew.
Alec
Mr. Alec I just want to say thank you for the knowledge! I have been rec diving for only 6 years. I average about 18 dives a year with 12 or so being in the same week in pretty blue water annually. I have my gear serviced every year before that week. I have found, like with most things these days, you don't always get what you pay for. So to protect the wife and I, I am finding my self doing more service to my gear and purchasing back up items to insure a pleasant week diving. So Thank you for teaching me a ton of things. I look forward to watching all of your videos and reading the FAQ's from fellow divers. Congrats on your retirement and please keep the knowledge coming I appreciate YOU. (PS without reading your FAQ's I would have put silicone grease on everything on a new BC hose :-) Brian from Ark/La
That's a lot of diving! I'm glad you're having fun.
And thanks for watching.
Alec
Great tip as always Alex. Keep up the good work.
Can't thank you enough for all the good videos.....my wife is getting back into diving & we watch your videos on (all)your
subjects....really good & entertaining!! :-)
Wow! You and your wife watch them.
'A family that watches Alec Peirce Scuba together stays together!'
Take care.
Alec
Mr Peirce! Thank you for the wonderful tutorials. Getting golden tips off the books via your splendid experiences servicing, diving and good old days. I’ve just identified your RUclips today and will subscribe and learn LOADS of things from you. Will be changing my hoses by myself tomorrow, identify the leak, inspect the condition of the O Rings and test it out firmly. I was lucky enough to see your videos before I (imagine) fixing it myself that might damage my parts. Again, thank you for the tutorials and sending respects from Malaysia. Ferdy.
Hi Alec
This Video helps a lot. I just changed settings for holidays (sea water, one 1.Stage). Normally I dive with two 1. Stages in Freshwaterlakes of Europe (because of the risk of iced 1. Stages).
The Setting is not easy and i did it wrong the first time (the hose to the drysuit and the hose to BCD from the same 1.Stage...). This would lead to loss of buoyancy control, if one 1.Stage has to be turned temporarily off in case of an iced system.
And then there is the problem of space and best hose setup...
A tectipp would probably safe a lot of time screwing and checking.
I'll keep on watching and learning.
Thanks a lot for checking
Yours Peter
Some divers use a separate pony bottle for their drysuit for the same reasons - it lowers the risk of a freeze-up and doesn't use the diver's breathing air.
For those not aware of this issue, the Adiabatic internal temperature drop in a scuba reg is related to the volume of air passing through it (among other things). If you are breathing through your primary regulator, your buddy is using your safe second, you are adding air to your BCD and to your dry suit, there's a lot of air passing through the first stage and that will cause a significant drop in temperature. If it's already in cold water, it is much more likely to ''freeze-up'. I put freeze-up in single quotation marks to indicate that it is not a totally correct term. The regulator doesn't really freeze. The moisture in the air freezes (yes, there is moisture in air - even scuba air) and the resulting ice causes a free-low that exacerbates the process into a full blown freeze-up.
However, that's a topic for another vid.
Thanks for your comment.
Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba Tanks a lot Alec for your answer. Your Video give a lot of good ideas and useful tips.
I would like to have not only the basics but also the advanced technical part.
Anyway keep on rocking!
Thank you for a good explanation of hose replacement and maintenance.
Thanks for watching Mike. Hope it was useful or at least entertaining. Alec
Hello, The material was presented in a very nice and precise way and coincides nicely with the training i have received years before. I hope to have more time soon to look at all videos that you have posted.
Thank you for your efforts to educate us divers.
From a new fan from Finland
Thanks for watching.
I hope something is valuable for you.
Alec
Thnk you so much, would love to learn how to chnge and lubricate the orings on tank, hose and regulators
Added to our shooting wish list. Thanks Tom.
Thanks, looking forward to it
Hey Alec, I watch your Tip videos from when I have the opportunity.
I think there great and an important service you provide for divers to have an enjoyable dive without problems.
Can you help me with my problem...I need to change out the HP hose on my pressure gauge because it leaks. The pressure gauge is in a console, along with the computer, and compass on the backside of the console. The setup is the Aqua Lung i300c.
Thanks for your help.
Steve
You will need to take the SPG out of the console. Be careful! Many consoles are synthetic & will crack is bent too much.
Soak the entire console in warm, soapy water for a short while. Then it should bend enough that the top of the SPG will protrude so you can get a finger under it. Pull the gauge gently out and stretch out the hose so you can then replace the swivel pin.
Good luck. Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thank you Alec for getting back to me.
Most appreciated. Steve
Hi Alex I've seen the wing bcd video but can you please do a video on hybrid bcd's (would you purchase one as your first bcd over a stab jacket) in terms of value/ practicality
Thank you so much Alec. Your videos are an inspiration to me. I'm working on hooking up something called an AirBuddy to my BCD and I need to change my hoses out to make this contraption work lol. If everything goes right I'm actually going to make a video on how to do it.
Sounds great!
Wish I could show you my regs now, just put on 2 new hoses....and took off every hose protector!!!!!!
Great job. Glad you pickup some new ideas.
Great tips thanks Alex.
Hello Alec, very nice video, useful as always! I would like to hear your opinion on those hose protection things like spiral wraps or silicone tubes, which basically designed to protect the whole hose, and not only connection part. Idk, from my perspective it's almost useless, never seen those on pro divers equipment, but maybe you have different opinion on that.
Hi Alec thank you for another amazing tech tip. my inquiry is regarding lubricating the threads. is that necessary and if so can you elaborate more on it. Thank you
Not really.
A very slight smear of silicon grease can't hurt but you run the risk of putting grease on the O-Ring which is not good. Assuming the O-Ring is new and in good shape (which it should be if you're changing hoses), it should not be greased or it can extrude and leak.
So if you feel compelled to grease the threads, put the tiniest smear on the very end of the threads so the grease won't reach the O-Ring.
Note that the hoses are only put in with low torque so the likelihood of them seizing is almost nil. They don't need grease to protect them nor to facilitate their insertion or removal.
Thanks for watching. Alec
That will work. Thank you, I just received a regulator set from E-bay described as, "great condition". Never mind that pesky leak on the SPG hose. Well, now I know what to do.
I buy and sell a lot of eBay. My eBay ID is seahunter.
"Great Condition" is a very subjective opinion. However, so long as the reg is not badly corroded it can be made like new.
Thanks for watching.
Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba After watching to your great videos I guess “great conditions” comes to a new, safer quality standard. :)
Mr Peirce
Thanks for your wonderful videos !
I'm a comercial diver , I usually dive in cero visibility conditions.
I would like to know if there's any "new" device for underwater navigation with audio (there's no way to see , so maybe there's audio or digital mask to read heading, or other important information.
Thank you!
Wow! Wouldn't that be great.
For several years I did work for a fellow who installed those big fancy fountains in public ponds. The water looks wonderful from a distance but up close, like in it, the water was the dirtiest I've ever experienced. I learned to close my eyes and go by feel only. With my eyes open, I was always trying to see - an impossibility. Closing them allowed me to concentrate my thoughts and senses on the job.
Never heard of any kind of sound device for underwater other than a couple of short distance, handheld sonars.
I'm sure it will appear in the future.
Good luck. Alec
+ Tabucito -- The US Navy is working with Kirby Morgan to develop a "Diver Augmented Vision Display" that can display information in the diver's field of vision. Here's a short article you might find of interest: www.newsfactor.com/story.xhtml?story_id=0200021SL1C0
Alec Peirce Scuba
Thank you for the comments and your interesting videos !
One of my "missions" is recording videos muddy water for engeneers ...
i will share a video .
thank you !
SeikiBrian
Brian thank you for the information, very interesting !
Alec,
First, congratulations on your retirement. I have a question about when to get my regulator set serviced. I have watched all of your videos on maintenance and cleaning the first stage and octo and I follow them religiously after every dive. I am trying to understand if this maintenance precludes the need to get the regulator overhauled every year by a certified technician, or if the yearly service done by a dive shop is necessary or even just prudent. Thanks,
Josh
Your question is loaded with 'ifs' Joshua and I'll likely draw some fire but, here goes ...
The short answer is that the only reason to take your regulator for an annual service is to keep the warranty in place. If that's not a concern and if you don't dive a lot and if you carefully rinse the reg after every use you probably can easily get by with a check every 2 or even 3 years. And find a dive store that will do a Check-Up, not a full service. If it's in good shape and working well, you don't need to spend $150+ for a full service. That would be like replacing your car tires because they're dirty!
Note that all manufacturers used to require a 1 year service period. That has changed now for most big brands to a 2 year service interval. This was done without any change to the regulator so obviously they feel that every 2 years is OK.
Also note that a regulator just sitting around can deteriorate - seats take a set, diaphragms and exhaust valves dry out and so on. If it hasn't been used for along time, say 1 year or more, get it checked out.
Hope this helps. Alec
Is it possible to “retrain” the bend in a reg hose? I have a new reg and the hose’s natural bend forces it down onto my shoulder. I’d like to make this bend go up and away from me. Thanks for the great video!
There should be no permanent bend in a rubber or miflex hose. Maybe hang it staring overnight to see if it straightens out. if not check for air leaks causing it to bend. If in doubt get it replaced (maybe warranty?) with a new one.
A
Thanks I’ll try that.
Hey ALec, any tips in changing the regulator hoses from Scubapro, they dont have the conventional hexanut set up and have some silly toothed thing. Cheers!
You must have a Scubapro tool to change their hoses. I know, I know. A pair of pliers will work but what a mess!!!
The threads are the same as all other hoses so you can put any hose onto a Scubapro reg that you want. But to remove or install a Scubapro hose, you need the tool to grab the splines on the outside. It has no hex as you say.
You can get the tool in 2 ways.
Scubapro has a reg Universal Tool with several parts for doing a bunch of different things - things you'll never do yourself. It costs $50-$60.
Or you can get a splined tool just for the hose fitting. It's about $20-$25.
scuba-clinic-tools.com/products/scubapro-splined-wrench
If you buy a tool, be sure it's metal. The plastic ones will break pretty easily.
The best source for regulator tools is Scubatools.com . Nice people, good prices, high quality and they have everything.
And don't go crazy when you tighten them. They are O-ring sealed. Just firm pressure. It's not an engine head bolt!!
Hope this helps
Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba Mr. Peirce, I could hardly thank you in excess for this particular tip. Thanks a lot!
Thank you for the information.
Thanks so much for this video!
Hi Alec thank you for your videos thank you for your tips!!!!! Its not in the book. YOU ARE THE BOOK!!!! PLEASE IF CAN DO A VIDEO FOR HOW TO SERVICE A REGULATOR AND FOR PROBLEMS THAT HAPPEN
THANK YOU
Thanks Yiannis.
I have been making vids on servicing the reg. I have to go slowly for the non-mechanical divers.
Working on it. i suspect that eventually we'll a complete reg overhaul in the vids.
Alec
On what o rings would silicon grease be used I was always taught to grease o-rings Obviously not on scuba but pneumatic and hydronic fittings I have a leaking high pressure hose and have ordered a new one and was planning on greasing it until I read a reply to a previous comment advising not greasing the oring Love your videos
Assuming the O-ring on the regulator end of your new hose is fresh, it should NOT be lubricated. Particularly on HP fittings, lubrication may lead to extrusion of the O-ring. You can check the O-ring by simply looking at it under a good light. It should look glossy, not flat or dull. The HP hose fitting has a static O-ring so it does not move once installed. It does not need lube.
Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba I enjoy your videos and feel privileged and thankful of your reply Thank you
Thanks for watching Steve.
Alec
HEY ALEC GLAD TO SEE YOU ARE VERY ACTIVE AND VERY FAST AT ANSWERING!!! Wheres your shop at? So i do not need thread tape where the hoses hook up? There are O-rings for every line or should be? Any certain type of O-ring rubber i need since cheap china orings are the easiest to find when in a bind. This vid is Solid Gold like most of your vids and im glad you reminded me not to overtighten! :)
I sold my last scuba shop and retired from the business a few years ago. These videos are how I share my experience with divers everywhere. As for tape, modern regs do not need any tape, anywhere. The o-ring is what seals hoses tight, not metal-on-metal. Yes, there are specific o-rings for each hose and connection. O-rings specifications are standardized so don't use home or auto o-rings for scuba. Look at my videos on 0-rings for detailed explanations about this. As for cheap o-rings, is your life worth 10 cents more for a name brand vs unknown ring? Glad to help show that strength is NOT needed when tightening hoses. Thanks for watching.
A
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter would 1 double valve scubatank with 2 first stages attached be as safe as, 2 tanks with a single valve each and a first stage on each tank? Know what i mean? Cause here in Germany they all use the double Valve single tanks with 2 first stages! But i saw in the States some prefer 2 tanks with the whole setup on each tank! Which is safer? The Germans also tried to tell me the freezing can occur in the tank valve and not the First Stage. What do you think?
Hi Mr Peirce thanks for yet another great video, what's your thoughts on that i/we should perhaps apply a little O'ring grease or vaseline on the fittings before sliding the hose protectors into place? Would that help protect the fitting ect a little more or cause more problems in between cleaning intervals??
Regards
Stuart
Be careful with Vaseline. Some brands have petroleum-based products in them. Use real O-ring grease. It doesn't have to be food grade.
Putting some grease on the tubing and outside of the fitting will allow you to put the hose protector on and off more easily and it might slow corrosion of the fitting. Don't make the mistake of lubing the O-ring as most divers do. A new O-ring should NOT be greased. That just facilitates extrusion of the ring. Many new O-rings, such as for cameras, are not supposed to be greased at all!
If you feel compelled to grease the hose ends when installing them, you are probably suffering from silicon addiction. Just the smallest amount, just a light smear, not even a dab, on the threads is OK. If you can see the grease on your fingers before you smear the threads, it's too much.
Look at the O-ring in the light. If the O-ring is shiny, glossy, it's good. Do not grease it.
Take care. Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba sorry I think I may have misled you a little with my question there, I wasn't suggesting that it would be a good idea to fill the hose protector and threads with grease I merely thought a light coating of O'ring grease before sliding the protector into place might help I didn't mean that in should be filled with grease. But thanks for telling us about how we should be greasing camera seals.. Thanks Alec..
No, No Stuart. I knew what you meant. No confusion. I just wanted to be sure you didn't fall into the 'silicon grease trap'! Or that our discussion didn't feed that incorrect notion. Too many divers have decided that, if a bit of grease is good, a LOT of grease is better. Take care. Alec
I linked this video for someone to watch, and ended up watching it myself again. One thing I wanted to add is that I am increasingly seeing more metric hose ends. I changed a SPG hose the other day, and my usual SAE wrenches didn't fit perfectly on the new hose, but when I used metric wrenches they did. I think this is probably fallout from the US based hose manufacturer, Danicorp, closing.
I don't know about that but the USA is till imperial so it won't be going away.
A
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter I am in the US, and my vendor is also in the US.
I really wanna get rid of the rubber hose on my Octopus, it is heavy and not flexible at all. Those flex hoses are the best choice. And plus, because of the low-pressure port on my "Kraken" is so close to the intake hose, I can't even put the hose protector on because there is no room to put on a hose protector between the intake hose and the low-pressure port. I might have to change it to flex hose for my safe second.
So cool !
Mr. Alec, would it be better or worse to remove the hoses from the first stage if the gear will be stored for 3 months or longer? Just put the port plugs in place, the hoses can be coiled better and the first stage can be placed inside a thick pouch to provide better protection during storage or travel. Assemble again only when preparing for a dive trip and keeping on hand spare o-rings and tools.
Gosh that's a lot of work.
It wouldn't be bad but I don't think it's necessary. If the reg is rinsed of all salt and dried well, just coil it lightly and seal it in a ZipLoc bag. I actually suck out the air in the bag that I use. I'd be concerned about messing up the threads on all the hose ends by taking them in and out repeatedly. Not a bad idea - just unnecessary I think.
Alec
Hi Alec. I really enjoy you videos and thank you for sharing your knowledge. I just replaced a hose on primary. I followed your instructions using two wrenches etc. After I was done the reg would free flow as soon as the air was turned on, not even submerged. It had to be adjusted to correct it. Whilst replacing the hose I noticed the fitting may have moved ever so slightly and I tried to ensured it was exactly as it was when attaching the new hose. If that fitting moves slightly (if it did it is no more than 1/8 of a turn) can that cause the free flow. Thanks for any advice you may offer.
Oh yeah!
A 1/8th turn is more than enough to make a reg freeflow.
What regulator is it?
Normally a reg won't dis-adjust (dis-adjust?? Like that. I love English. If you don't know the right word, make one up. It works!) jusy be changing the hose unless it's a DACOR.
Alec
This is on a Zeagle Envoy. Next time I will mark the fitting and housing so I will know if the fitting moved. Thanks for the information.
Are hose protectors necessary to buy? My new regulator set didn't come with any on the hoses. Would it be better to add them or leave the hoses the way they are? Thanks! I enjoy your videos.
If your reg hoses are the usual rubber style, hose protectors are a good idea. I always put them on new regs for my customers. If the customer didn't want to pay the $10 for them (4 @ $2.50), I put them on anyway at no charge. It simply saved the aggravation later when he came back with a torn or frayed hose at the metal ferrule by the first stage.
If you are VERY careful when packing and using your reg to ensure the hoses are never bent too sharply, you might be OK but I've seen helpful boat divemasters bend them or even drop them.
I think they're a good idea. Don't forget to rinse underneath them occasionally.
Alec
Alec why do you hold the big spanner against the 2nd stage please before/after replacing the hose? Thanks
The hose goes into a threaded fitting that is just pressed into the plastic second stage housing. It is easy to break the plastic at that point if too much force is applied. US Divers has a very big problem with that several years ago. To avoid it hold the nut as you loosen or tighten the hose.
Alec
Hi Alec, just a quick question, I saw your video on the flex hoses so I decided to replace my two regulator low pressure hoses. I ordered the yellow octopus and I ordered a red for my second stage, but when I went to change out the second stage, the connection on the new hose was smaller than on the first stage port, so I was wondering why that is, if you have any idea. I thought I ordered the right hose the description called it a second stage flex hose. Thanks
Hmmm. The only possibility that I can think of is that your regulator "features" 1/2" LP ports. A very few manufacturers made the LP ports larger on the premise that it would give the diver more air. Of course, the hope was that divers would buy their regulators. Pretty silly actually since the standard 3/8" ports will supply enough air for 5 divers at the same time! Plus, having a larger port but then forcing that air flow into the same size small hose offers no advantage at all. If that's the case, you will need to exchange the hose for ones with a 1/2" male end or, buy an adapter that's available from any dive store. They may not have it in stock but they can order it for you from Trident Dive - Catalog #AA48. Let me know. Alec
Just the video I needed! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Hi Alec, thanks for all your videos.
I recently bought a new regulator, trying to put my old SPG and octopus on the new first stage, but my old gear are all salted and a bit corrosion under the hose protector.
I will try some warm water and vinegar to clean it. Can I get some suggestions from you?
You're on the right track.
Warm soapy water. Rinse well.
If it's badly corroded a bit of vinegar will help or try that CLR stuff from a hardware store.
Just rinse lots and use some silicon grease on the rubber parts and threads.
Oh and get new O-Rings for those hoses. They're cheap.
Good luck.
Alec
Thanks!
Alec, I have a scubapro mk11-c350 that is brand new and before I use it I'd like to replace the hose with a mifex swivel. Scubapro claims they use a "super-flow" hose. Should I anticipate any changes in ambient airflow to second stage (by switching hoses) and therefore a need to adjust second stage prior to use? Thanks for your help!
Nope. Changing the hose does NOT affect the relationship between the first stage and second stage.
"Super Flow", "Hi-Flow" or any other kind of hose described as being better by giving you more air is a marketing gimmick. These hoses may have a larger diameter but the difference is marginal. Modern hoses supply more air than you and 2 more divers could suck from a new reg.
Thanks for watching. Alec
Hi Alec I haven't been scuba diving in almost 2 years, should I practice in a pool before I go out into the ocean
Hi MDO most dive certification companies offer a 're activation' course. these courses are designed to remind you of all those little safety practices that make diving safe and fun. Deffintly worth doing.
Hi Alec, awesome video as always! Is it the same procedure when it comes to those new flexi hoses?
Exactly. You don't need hose protectors with flex hoses but all else is done the same way.
Alec
Alec, what are your thoughts on using hose protectors with flex hoses? I'm thinking of removing them from my gear, and have received conflicting opinions on whether or not that's a good idea.
Thanx!
Funny you ask. I don't recommend hose protectors with flex hoses. Some dealers will freak at this but surely their business doesn't depend on sales of hose protectors!
Flex hoses are so flexible that they are less likely to bend and tear at the metal end. Since one of their biggest benefits is their light weight it doesn't make sense to put a rubber hose protector on it.,
I've been using them that way for over 4 years with many dives and no hint of a problem.
Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba Thanx! :)
I just bought a brand new rig and noticed the octo second stage swivel dose not swivel as well as the primary. Is this normal? Or should I take it in to get adjusted?
awesome informative clips..... !!!!!!!
Thanks for watching.
Alec
Hi Alec, I recently got a new digital SPG that measures pressure, depth, and temperature. It came with a rubber hose already installed on it from the manufacturer, and I want to replace the rubber hose with a flex hose. However the manufacturer doesn’t recommend using a different hose, because it could void the warranty. What should I do?
Sounds like a great SPG but as for hoses, flex or rubber, the maker should not care unless they specify the exact hose to use. Works like recommend and could are not the same as 'must use'. Suggest email or use their website contact form to clarify if flex hoses are OK or why not. Flex are the standard for all new regs from low to high end so why the issue? Only think I can think of is if an air spool is required to slow the air flow into the SPG to prevent a pressure overload. Check your owners manual but ask anyway. Otherwise a warranty is a good think to have (especially if expensive) but get the makers input first. Never know if there is a really good reason or just old manual that was not updated.
A
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks.
Alec, any easy way to install a hose protector? Seems awfully difficult
Hose protectors can be a real pain to install.
There are several ways to make it easier.
1. Take it to your LDS.
2. Soak it in hot, soapy water and spray some silicon grease on the hose. That MIGHT help.
3. Buy or make an installation tool. It's a simple rod, 8" long and about 1/2" in diameter with a female (inside) thread on one end
that goes onto the hose fitting. Thread it onto the end of the hose. Put the how, soapy protector over it and you can pull
the protector onto the hose. You can see one in the Trident catalog on page 34, #SA05.
4. Dive stores use a sophisticated version of that same tool which allows them to install both LP and HP hoses at the same time
with little or no effort. It's o the same page in the catalog. They still use hot, soapy water or maybe some silicon grease.
Good luck.
Alec
I love this guy!!!!!!!!
I love you too.
Alec
THANK FOR YOUR REPLY JUST TO KNOW YOU ARE WELCOME IN CYPRUS STAYING IN MY HOUSE FOR DIVING WE HAVE A GREAT WRECK 'ZENOVIA'
THANK YOU
You did not use any lubricant on the threads or o-orings on the hoses. My local shop lubricates three threads and o-rings. Which is correct?
Fresh O-Rings in a static position do NOT require lubrication. In fact, lubrication may be detrimental and lead to extrusion and loss of the O-Ring and subsequent harm to the diver. Hose end O-Rings are static.
O-Rings in a dynamic position should be lubricated.
Swivels, pistons, etc, are dynamic.
Now this assumes fresh, new O-Rings and likely synthetic material as most of them are now.
Alec
Thanks
Welcome. Lots more to watch and learn about.
A
Do you use 75 or 90 duro o-rings on the LP port side hose?
The LP O-rings are NOT subject to wear from dynamic forces or heat or high pressure so they are usually 75 Duro. Even other static O-rings in a scuba regulator are usually 75 Duro. There is no heat, no oxidation, no destructive fluids. Generally you are always best to use original factory-supplied O-rings. They are chosen to do the best job.
Here is a link to the best O-Ring manual I've ever seen. If you need to know anything about O-rings, go here: www.physics.harvard.edu/uploads/files/machineshop/epm_oring_handbook.pdf
Thanks.
Alec
ALSO PLEASE IF YOU CAN SOME THEORY ABOUT HOW THE REGULATORS ARE WORKING
THANK YOU
Maybe we can do a series on "How Scuba Regulators Work!" showing different types.
I'll speak to Kevin.
Alec
How do you remove a stuck high pressure hose from the first stage? I don't want to force it cause it might break.
If it's simply in very tight, there is little or no option other than to hold the reg firmly (maybe in a padded vise) and using a good solid proper fitting wrench, force it out.
If it does not come out with reasonable force, hold the wrench firmly and strike the end smartly with a solid, non-metal object. Use a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet. At this point it will either release and come out easily or it will break the end fitting off. If it breaks then you will have to remove the piece inside the port which is fairly easy to do with an EZ Out or some other type of broken stud remover. I think the type that looks like a screw is better for this job than the ones you must drill a hole first. There already is a hole so the left-hand screw type of stud remover should work well. I hate to drill since you run the risk of touching th threads in the body. Since you're working with brass, it's all pretty soft so ought to be a straightforward job. Just take your time and work slowly.
There is no magic trick to removing a stuck hose.
Good luck. Let me know how you do.
Alec
Thank you for the prompt reply. Can I spray WD40 and leave it overnight would that help?
It can't hurt although I doubt it will make much difference.
What's happened is that the metal hose end fitting has been forced tightly against the regulator body. This hose seals with an O-Ring as you know and the threads actually need to be only hand tight. It will not leak under pressure. However, they should be tightened a bit more than that to ensure they don't work loose. A BIT TIGHTER!
Too many divers think they're installing wheels on a pickup and tighten them way too much.
Good luck.
Alec
My 2nd stage is s600 on a swivel. How do I remove the hose please ?
You'll need a Scubapro tool to grasp the knurled or ridged nut which is tight against the 2nd stage and a flat wrench to hold the swivel nut. Separate those 2 and you're all set. The swivel comes off the end of the hose easily.
You can use slip pliers for the Scubapro knurled nut but you may mark the nut.
Alec
thank you so much. I am an instructor who's never had to do the technical part (my husband did it all). Now divorced, i am learning and its great fun through your videos. Bravo for the excellent presentations.
Is it 14mm and 17mm in metric?
For the best fit stick with Imperial tools but here is the metric conversion: 1/2" = 13mm, 9/16" = 14mm, 5/8" = 16mm.
A handy conversion chart here: handtoolessentials.com/blog/tools/wrench-conversions-chart-sae-metric-sizes/
A.
Hey, just something to toss out; if you're trying to secure your first stage DO NOT use a vice or clamp on the regulator body!
Thanks Alec. Do you have the name of that tool? Also, what if you want to remove the hose that's in the HP port? Where does the tool attach to the 1st stage?
No lube for the o rings?
Some O-Rings must be lubricated. Some O-Rings need a very light lube. Some O-Rings (assuming they are fresh) should not be lubed. That's where experience and training become important.
Take care.
Alec
Where can I buy a bench valve?
You can check with Scuba Tools. There are a couple of companies that sell them. They are not cheap but it's not hard to make one yourself. Any good tank valve will do. The 3/4" thread on a tank valve is standard so you can make an adapter to connect it to a hose to run to your own scuba tank as a source of air pressure. Get the parts at any good hardware or gas fitting store. If you have a machinist friend, have him take a 3" square piece of steel and machine a 3/4" thread on one side for the valve and a through hole on the other side for a hose. Just grasp the block of steel in a vise, valve up and hose running to your tank.
Alec
I tecently got a scuba regulator for free
I went ant got it serviced right away
The hoses are in good shape
But 20 years old
Should i get new ones?
If they were checked and show no signs of deterioration, no cracking, no problems at the ends, etc, I'd stick with them.
A regulator stored badly may have ruined hoses after just a year or two.
Stored carefully, rinsed, dry, in a cool place and sealed in a plastic bag, the hoses will last indefinitely.
Trust your dive store on this. They would likely love to sell you new hoses if you needed them.
Take care.
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks a lot
will mount a new flexible octo hose
just in case something goes wrong with the primary hose
could you make a Video about buying / using used Gear?
(what to look out for, what to avoid)
when starting out as a young diver you cant afford everything brand new
greetings Robert
I think that's a good idea. I'll see what we can do.
Thanks again.
Alec
Glad I was doing it right.
Even if you know what I'm sharing in these videos, it doesn't hurt to watch to be sure huh?
Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba Absolute
👌
Thank you.
A
what about adding heat shrink tubing to the ends of the hose protector? then you can protect the hose protector, while keeping your hose protected...lol
Interesting idea. I'm more concerned about the hose fitting than the hose protector. If the fitting corrodes you'll have to replace the entire hose - $50+.
I use shrink tubing all the time but I don't think it will keep water out. The water will get trapped in there and ruin the fitting.
Keep thinking though.
Alec
When I have my regulators serviced the shop lubricates the o-rings and the threads with christolube. You did not do that.
Christo Lube, or any other oxygen-compatible grease, is essential IF the regulator is to be used in EAN (enriched air - higher oxygen content than atmospheric.). Otherwise it is not.
Most manufacturers are now recommending the use of O2-compatible grease at all times but that is based on their aversion to liability. That's not bad nor stupid. It's just unnecessary.
Many dive stores also insist on the use of O2-compatible grease, partly for the same reason and partly because they make more money by doing so.
There is no reason to NOT use O2-compatible grease any more than there is no reason to use racing oil in your Toyota. It will work just fine.
Alec