5 Tips to Improve Your Film Developing
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- 5 simple tips to help improve your B&W film developing.
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Thanks for all the good advice Paul. When I start my own developpement, I'll surely come back to this vid !!
On your tip of cutting the leader at 45° to aid passing through the reels, I agree but what I learned a few years ago was for 35mm film get a film leader retriever tool. Retrieve the leader from the film canister which you can do in daylight and then you can cut a nice curve in the film end without cutting through a sprocket. This is easy to do in the daylight whilst the film remains in the light tight can. Awesome vid.
Love it. Thank you.
I could have done with Tip 4 a couple of weeks ago!!!! I lost a roll of TriX as it was getting stuck on the spool.....
Great vid as ever... Merry Christmas
Good stuff ! One thing I might add is regarding wiping off your negatives before drying . It depends on the type of fixer you use . Some fixers have a hardener in it and some don't . If you happen to be using a fixer that has no hardener , you will wipe off some of the emulsion from the negative leaving marks . No matter how gentle you wipe .... That's been my experience anyway ..... Anyhoo ..... Love your channel ....
using a cooking thermometer really helped me with consistency
Love the mono video, not sure if that was chosen due to the B&W subject, but it brought with it a clean crisp look! Good vid. 👍🏻
Awesome video! Thanks for the tips this will help our channel improve significantly. We appreciate you sharing the great info, as black and white is so precious to us.
Cheers and thanks
Great vid! Another vote for paper towels!
Awesome vid mate your best production imho and your others are bloody good great tip re the app I'm in for that but the best tip was the freebie well said pal 😎👍🏼
Ta mate
Good tips! I have certainly struggled with the sweats before. Film jams up. One tip I have found that helps is take the film off the spool before using wetting agent like ilfotol or photoflo. I was getting a build up of it on my spools and this would cause more film jams when winding on.
Thanks Jai
Hello from the states. Thanks for yet another helpful video.
Thanks Eric
Another great video, Paul. I'd like to start developing my film myself - just not had enough time and opportunity to take actually my time with it. I'm a total noob when it comes to developing. Maybe sometime in 2019 will be when I try it. The more I think and read about it, the more I want to do it, so thanks a lot for the tips. I'm inspired. Thanks for all your brilliant videos. Long may they continue. Merry Christmas :-)
Thanks Matt
Cheers Paul.
good words buddy that's what's it's all about having fun
Cheers
Helpful!
Back in the day and I started developing film in late the 70’s. I was always so careful with water and chemicals temperatures and agitation. Left for digital for years and now back into film. But I have been so lazy. Never paying attention to temperatures and lazy with agitation even. I need to get serious again and take better care. I sqweegy the film between my wet fingers.
I developed my 5 roll of film and finally it's perfect. I used lint free paper instead of paper towel. Tip no.6 helped me
Thanks. I have bought that app. If £5.99 is too much you can use a free interval timer app as used for physical training.
When I lived in PNG one always had the sweats. I ended up using the stainless steel reels and these worked much better, and for 120 film ended up with none of the half moon creases you could get using a plastic wratchet reels
The sweats. Spot on. When I first started developing, I ruined so many rolls because of this.
thanks for these! And now some tipps for intermediate users 😊
Wildo Philipp when I get to intermediate level 😎
Hi Paul. Have recently embarked upon home film development. Thanks for the tips. Though I feel squeeging negatives is not necessary if we use a good wetting agent. Also the best video on development is by Matt - Bentley.
I have the same tank as you and it leaks when I invert it. I've tried just using the spinning stick but the results definitely aren't as good. But inverting it makes a real mess
I use a film squeegee that I always wash before use and keep in a bag. I wash them in lukewarm washing up liquid so I don’t get the lines you can get when you aid the drying time. I still get stick for that but in the forty odd years it’s never gone wrong.
Your bathroom has the least dust in the air of any room, but still run a hot shower for a couple of minutes before hanging your film. There will be a big difference just for this little thing.
There’s far more resources available now than there were forty odd years ago when I first developed film, all I had was a grumpy older brother and sneaking his magazines. Use any and all resources available. As with other areas of photography there may be people who have different opinions how to do things, and you may get the occasional person who says their way is right and everyone else is wrong. Just cut the wheat from the chaff and take the bits that help you.
The best channel for developing film is David Hancock, no one understands the science of film photography better than David. He has recently done a series of things that commonly go wrong, both user and non user faults. He has also done a couple of series of viewers questions and it’s well worth going through his back log if you have any difficulties.
Another great little video, I know you are posting over the Christmas period but I’ll take this opportunity to wish you a very merry Christmas and say thank you for all the amazing videos over the last year.
Thanks for the festive wishes mark, and the same to you. Yes YT certainly has sped up the learning process.
I use the Kimtech tissues as they are lint free. Works a treat.
I have two tips: wen developing medium format (120) load it from the tape side, fold the tape back over the film! it makes it more rigged making it essayer to load on the spools! 2 is to never roll the leader back in the can! if you have it out you can put as much film as you started in the camera with on the spool in the light!
Hi Paul, I'm really against drying film with any kind fabric, the main issue beeing scratches, the emulsion is fragile. Great video, good tips ! :)
Thanks Alexei yea I have heard but not experienced it yet.
@@PaulCSmithPhotographer Well you're very lucky then. ;)
Tip 7: Double check , no triple check, no quadruple check that your film reel is completely dry before trying to load a film onto it. I lost a roll of Pan F+ because of that. Even though I can't remember what I shot with it, it still bugs me and I suppose it will for a while.
I split mine in half after each session and put them flat on the radiator
I'm about to start developing my own B&W film, so I'm ging to use a non critical film of low importance to start with. Questions: I'm told that squeegee's can scratch the emultion. Some say it doesn't. OK so this is going to be a bit of an experiment. I don't know whether or not paper towels will do the trick. You have obviously been successful with it, so worth going with it. I'm told that dust is the enemy and of course it is, but RS in his comment below seems to think that it doesn't stick to emulsion, so again trial and error. I'm investing in a can of compressed air which I assume will work on the dry emultion and before scanning. Your thoughts please?
great set of tips. (I prefer using the massive dev chart online because it is free rather than the app)
Yes I agree. Massive Development chart has been around for a long time and is not an App. There is an App for it but it is not necessary but I guess it's cool to throw them some money to support if possible. I don't like using my phone for darkroom timing though because 1 drop on the screen makes it stop working and you can mess up your process. Gralab timer is better
nice video Paul, although the paper towel makes me shudder, I don't think all paper towels are created equal. Tip 7 - Once you've mastered timed development try stand development with HC110 or Rodinal. You can nap whilst processing, you use very little developer, all your film types in the one big tank with no time difference, doesn't matter if you are off by minutes or hours in your timing, and you don't need to worry about push processing :)
Thanks Matt
thanks for this Paul,some good info in there.as far as the sweats go I know what you mean about them, when I did my very first 120 film I nearly destroyed it trying to get it on the reel and wound up with a lot of scratches on it as well. then while looking on here for tips to make it easier to load 120 film I saw some different reels in one video that had big wide lead ins to the spirals. saw another person ask what the reels were and when I found out I got straight on Ebay and ordered one..when it arrived and I was about to spend a few hours developing some more films so I loaded my first 120 roll onto it and it took me all of 2 minutes to do it, it was that easy and quick..and no sweat or wrinkled damaged films either.have since bought another two reels from the same place so I can now do a lot of 120 films when I have a developing session.if your'e interested check out Kaiser 4298 self winding spools on Ebay and share them with your followers as well, they're worth the investment. best part is they fit Paterson system 4 tanks and AP tanks as well, so there's no need to change them at all.
Thanks for the tip, might get one of those they look awesome
@@PaulCSmithPhotographer Your'e welcome, great to be able to share any helpful information and tips with others that make life easier for us,especially beginner film developers like myself.
Just ordered one, will do a review on it when it arrives
@@PaulCSmithPhotographer Look forward to seeing that and what you think.
Kaiser and AP both do them and they’re a lifesaver, soooo much easier to load than those bloody Paterson ones!
tip 6. After a roll is finished pull the film out with a puller. Cut the film + film into the Reel leader + put inside dark bag + ratchet reel + cut film. = no more problems adding it to the reels.
Gotta get me a puller for sure. Now to solve the 120 problem.
I do this, but instead of using the puller tool, I just don’t rewind the film all the way in
I cut the corners and load the film on to the spiral until it passes the ball bearings, before I even put it in the bag. Then once yiurbarms are in and it’s light proof, all you have to do inside the bag is turn it
Hi Paul, how do you control temp when development times are longer than 6 minutes?
Hi Hugo I don't, that's part of my no Anal rule.
Interesting, during summer in my area weather gets really high, so I was wondering how people do it. Thanks!
Hey, does cutting the end of the film help with 120mm too?
Yep definately
When I got started I would sweat a lot trying to get the film into the reel. My solution, which I still use, was to get some latex gloves. Cheap and works perfectly.
Good tip Rui
What you call Kleenex is the number one source of stray fibers in the darkroom. Use microfiber cloths instead. Just wash them before using the first time.
😂😂 Sweats. I ruined a roll of film due to this. I was trying to load my film in the dark bag on a stinkin hot day. After about 45min I couldn’t take it anymore and I pulled my hands out. I felt sick about the pictures I lost for days. Never mind, live and learn. Great video👍
Thanks Robert, painful isnt it?
Robert Braly if you have the tank in the dark bag you can always stick the film in it and close it up! then you can come back when you’ve a chance to collect your thoughts😂
r3strict3d_ 👍😂Yeah I worked that out next time it happened. Thanks.
Paul C Smith Photographer yes it is.
MrBusytimmy No, not at all. If you follow Paul’s tip and trim the corners of the film it helps a lot. Make sure you start with a completely dry reel and try to find a cool place or do it in the evening when it’s a bit cooler and you’ll be fine. I’ve only ever lost one roll and that was because of my own impatience and because I didn’t think to put the roll in the tank before I took my hands out. After doing it for a while you’ll get much quicker at loading your reels so that you can get in and out of the bag before you have time to sweat. Developing your own film is truly special and worth the learning curve.
I am using a
salad spinner instead of cleanex..... works aktually fine as well
Peter Bölke me too. Works better than anything else
How long does it take you to dry your negatives?
Between 2-3 hours
which app is that at 0:23 ?
Massive Dev App
Massive dev chart is useful, but only if you take the times with a Mahooossive pinch of salt - the chart doesn't know your working EI or your development technique. In fact my tip would be don't rely on it too religiously. Treat it as a tentative starting point, just like the times that come on the film boxes; so, go out and shoot off a roll with your camera the way you normally would, ideally in any lighting other than direct sun, then develop with the M dev chart time to begin with, then look at your dried negative strip and if there's generally too much clear space on the frames you are under developing, so add 30% to your dev time. \you could get all 'anal' about getting it perfect , but what I've outlined is basically it for getting printable negs for a beginner who just wants to get right into it (as you should! what an amazing hobby) - nuff said.
This reminds me I have 5 rolls of 120 to develop.
I could actually use a tip to cut my film. With normal scissors it doesn't look good enough. :P
after fixer, wash, hypo cleaning agent, wash, soak in wetting agent for 30sec-1mnt, and then thats it
Thats been my process for quite some time but I'm getting better negatives since I started using the paper towels
I could comment at length on my two concerns, but what's point when you lend your apparent authority to such "tips", so I'll make it short. (1) The Massive Development Chart (App) is littered with errors because the publisher collects the data from unreliable sources and repeats it with no verification. Ex., HP-5 in D-76 (1:2) is a full stop off, yield and accidental 1 stop push. For odd combinations, you may have no other resource, but test the accuracy on a trash roll first. (2) Wiping the soft wet emulsion of your film with a fairly course paper towel? You got to be nuts. One swipe will embed more microscopic grit than hanging the film to dry in a sand storm. Dust that settles on wet film will blow off when dry because its not embedded in the emulsion. I assume your swiped negatives look fine because you never print them.
Randall ... "Tip 6"
1 tip to get angry comments on your photography RUclips channel
#1 Make a film developing video :)
My number 1 tip is to try to keep everything constant. Do your agitation and all the other stuff the same way every time. That way it's easier to find out what went wrong if it goes wrong.
Thanks mate
Temperature control
My finger is my thermometer
Use a proper squeegee instead of paper towels. Think about the environment, every little helps 😉
ShoesNoSocks as we use all the toilet paper
trees grow back bro......
MmmmmmmmKay.....
Best one,DONT be too anal!! Yes supposed to be fun........I use a film Squeegee,,,,I know if you Google it ITS Against the Law !LOL....Keep the Squeegee clean and do it lightly and it works like a charm! The idea is to keep the squeegee CLEAN !!! ,but its what ever works for you..... another great vid sir, Cheers!!
Thanks Andy
It's funny the squeegee has been sold for decades I guess, but now all of a sudden it's supposed to be bad? Like you said, keep it clean.
Paper towel is rough and fiberous I say NO. Uneven pressure will scratch film for sure
Cheers but I have had no problems so far.