Thank you for your time to explain this calibration concept. I had a first go at it my self. I took the propellers off completely and my max Amps drawn were about 2amps. Hence I understand that to drain about 10amps or more I need to keep propellers on but in flipped configuration. I will try it later on. Please feel free to correct me guys ;)
+Randy Mackay, just recently got back into flying. I am using a Pixhawk PX4 with the 3DR Power module. I am noticing shorter flight times because the low battery beep comes on very quickly. I am trying to determine if the power sensor is not reading properly, or if my old batteries (~2 years only about ~50 cycles) are to blame. The batteries charge fine btw.
Thanks Randy for your clear VID explanation. What will affected if only calibrated the Voltage BUT NOT the Amp ? will it affect the flight or only MP showing the wrong info?
SSBrealty, If you enable the low battery failsafe then it can trigger a LAND either when the voltage gets low or when it estimates that it's used up 100% of the battery capacity. So if the current is incorrect that second check might not trigger at the correct time. If you really don't care about the current then you could change the battery monitor to only monitor voltage but that's a bad idea if you're using compassmot because it relies on the current monitor to get a good result.
Not sure if you noticed but when the craft is under load the voltage drops below the actual voltage of the battery. you can verify this by connecting a voltmeter directly to the battery while the craft is under load and you'll see the voltage difference changes about 1 volt and actually shut down my crafts thinking that the voltage is at a dangerous level when it's not . there is a voltage drop between the battery terminal and the sensor and the software is not compensating for it. I ran into the same problem when I was programming my own amp meter. wasn't too difficult to compensate for in the software. not really sure why they don't have that option and this firmware as that was the very first problem I noticed when I was building my own wattmeter discharger/analyzer. I suppose I can go into the firmware and update the software to compensate for it. but I don't think in the worry about that right now, I'm just going to disable the voltage and only use the milliamp hour to determine the remaining amount of battery.
Great video! Would you advice to use an external lipo buzzer module or is it possible to attach a buzzer directly to the board, for security reasons? Just in case that I want to fly my copter without the mission planer software and the lipo runs out of power?
After no help from anyone,i threw away that stupid attopilot 180a current sensor and bought the Mauch 200a current sensor that works amazingly and can detect the slightest amp draw.Very happy. Please don't waste your money buying attopilot current sensor.😇
Hi Randy Mackay, thanks a lot for the video! One question though: My quad carries two 4S 5200mAh batteries in parallel but I calibrated with only one because I didn't want to solder the necessary XT60 2-to-1 adapter that would connect both of them to the watt-meter. Is the calibration still valid??
Randy Mackay Great video, but can you just plug the USB cable and the powermodule in at the same time without removing the 5V wire from the USB? I have read that some people have done this without a problem but others have burned out their boards.
Leandro Praxedes Ribeiro yes, this is a one-time calibration. As long as you don't change the power module on the vehicle it should be fine forever. For example, there's no need to re-do this calibration if you use different batteries.
Hi Randy.I am using the attopilot 180A current sensor with my pixhawk.I'm having problem getting it to read current draw.Reading voltage is working fine.I check all the wires from the attopilot 180A to my pixhawk is correct.When i throttle up the X8 quad,mission planner showing the voltage reading is working but not the current...please help...
Hi! Is it strictly necessary to calibrate the Voltage and Current monitor to have the APM working properly or it's just for you to have a precise reading? I'm asking that 'cause I've been experiencing some brownouts which have caused my quad to crash several times, so maybe the problem is that I've never calibrated the voltage¤t monitor... Thanks!
Hi Randy! thanks for such a great and informative video. I have a Pixhawk running on 6S using a 3rd party voltage sensor I got from Amazon that is intended to power the Pixhawk from 6S voltage. I followed your instructions step by step, but I'm noticing that after cycling power on the Pixhawk, the voltage readings are off. And the current draw as well. It is almost as if the numbers I am entering are not being saved to the board. Di you know why this is the case?
+traxxi2003 Very hard to say. you could perhaps confirm that it's really caused by the parameter values not being saved by checking before and after the board is rebooted using the mission planner's full parameter list. I think the parameters will all start with BATT_
@caribbeanchild, it should still work with AC3.1.2. Can you be more specific about where it's not working? If you could report the issue in the APM forum that would be great, thanks.
At the battery monitor set up screen,when i select attopilot180a,the current reading is showing 139++Amp draw without even powering up the quad yet.After powering up the quad,raising throttle to half,reading on the MP screen show the same 139A draw..what is going on here Randy?please help.Thanks.
Thanks for your great video. It's useful to me as I am building my pixhawak quadcopter. As your external amp meter shows the voltage and current at the same time, why bother to use the multimeter? is there any difference? THanks
glad the videos are useful. So we need to use the external multimeter just to ensure that the APM/Pixhawk voltage and current monitor is producing the correct numbers.
Hello i am trying to set up my current in the pixhawk according to your video but i am stumped, my flight data screen does not have the status tab you clicked on to see the current status.could you tell me what to do about this? Thanks for any help
After you get the current on the power analyzer and the flight data to match do i return the sonar setting to 3dr power module? When i change it back my current go's back to the original setting and then the current is off again.
Hi Randy, thanks for the video explainer. I'm running the Mauch100A sensor with Pixhawk The Cube. Followed your steps, and all fine with voltage.... awesome ! But I'm not getting any current readings through AP. Current in status listings does not move from 0, regardless of A/V entered.... Any ideas on how to fix this?
Chris, not sure what the issue is I'm afraid. I've never used the Mauch sensor myself. Perhaps make sure the BATT_MONITOR parameter is set to "4" (to measure both voltage and current). Beyond that perhaps post in the forums? discuss.ardupilot.org/c/arducopter/copter-36
@@rmackay9 Setting is at 4, but perhaps I'm not throttling enough to draw 3A+. Will try again with the boat in the pool. Another question I had was regarding the Rover - does this use the accelerometer/gyros in this mode? I would like to measure and store accelerations during a set routine/mission...
Chris, the dataflash log files will store the IMU data regardless of the mode so hopefully it has the data you're looking for. Let's move the discussion to the Rover forum if possible: discuss.ardupilot.org/c/ardurover
Never mind it showed up ,i now have the status tab,but my throttle will not let me get to 10 amps it starts out going slow and builds up but never gets to very much power, it would only put out 7 amps. Not sure what would make it not let me give it more throttle. any ideas? Thanks
i've read somewhere that they fried their board connecting APM using USB cable and battery at the same time. How did you do yours without frying the board?
Still having the same problem 8 months later.... if I calibrate the voltage with a new pack (around 12.5 volts) when I'm done flying the voltage displayed in MP is about 0.6 - 0.8 volt lower than what it actually is (displayed on the quad with a voltage display)... this is very important and just does not work! looking on the web I see that I'm not the only one having this problem.
Some of these common props cannot be installed upside down (well, not without damaging modifications). Is there any good reason why this test couldn't be done on motors without props installed, assuming you could get up to 10A or so? Thanks.
+Lauren Weinstein You're right that it's becoming more common for propellers to not be reversible (it's better if they're not for the most part because it makes it harder to put them on incorrectly). We need to put some load on the battery (and battery monitor) to get the current up high enough to calibrate it properly though and without the props on I think the load will be too low. I don't really have a solution for non-reversible props except to safety secure the vehicle down during the test and try and use longer wires somehow so you don't have to get too close to the vehicle.
+Randy Mackay I was afraid you'd say the load couldn't get up high enough without the props and was already thinking about how to tie everything down. Certainly doable, though it's bound to push up the adrenaline a bit more. Thanks for the advice and the video!
I do everythink like u say. If i use "APM2.5+ with 3DR" I have strane volt values (and every 1sec tilt about 1V). After that i use "APM2.5 non 3DR" and then also strange but when do volt calibration everythig is fire. But problem is with amper value. A in mission planner is always the same. I try to do amper meter calibration with props on and calibrate amper meter and nothing happend when i turn down trottle. Mesured value is cca 10A and put down in Mission planner Battery monitor page and when pull down throttle amper sill set to 10A (in Mission Planner. Dont go down. Thx for help.
when i input the value 0 at the current bracket,at MP main screen show 0.After powering up the quad and raise the throttle to half,the amp reading still remain 0...please help
Hey Randy, I alternate between 3s and 4s batteries on my Pixhawk and I have to manually calibrate the the alarm settings every time. Is there to automate this? Maybe the FC can detect the cell count every time?
Sergio Orjuela at the moment there's no way to do that. Switching batteries will also affect your copter's tuning parameters as well I think. In AC3.3 we support smart batteries and voltage scaling but the smart battery at least will require new hardware (wiki page will be released before AC3.3 goes live).
Hi Randy, I recently tried this method, could it be that this does not work anymore? If I arm the motors in stabilize mode as soon if I raise the throttle to have enough current flowing thru the sensor the motors keeps on spinning higher and higher. So I can not manualy set the throttle to get 10 Ampere for the calibration. Do you have any solution to this?
Pikku Jenny from da hood I don't understand your reaction by be so friendly (sarcasm). What flight mode is a manual mode? In all modes the flight controller interfering the throttle position therefore I can not set the desired throttle. For some reason the flight controller keeps on push the throttle upwards. I have solve it by using a constant load to calibrate the sensor.
Sir, when we are did battery voltage calibration, for mission planner is showing less voltage than hand held volt meter. Due Due this problem my drone is coming to RTL after 50 seconds of my take off. Please guide me about this sir. Thank you Sir.
+Matthew Farrugia No, it doesn't. The voltage monitor will be most accurate at the voltage that you calibrate it at though. Personally I calibrate it when it's full but it shouldn't matter much.
what happens if you use diffrent battries every flight say a 4 cell then it dies then a 3 cell and so on.. will this work? or you have to use one type of battery all the time?
The voltage and current monitoring will still work fine if you switch the batteries. What will need to be adjusted though is the failsafe values. So if you move from a 3S to a 4S battery you'd need to increase the failsafe's minimum voltage so that the battery failsafe triggers.
Randy Mackay so every time i plug in a diffrent battery i have to go into my pc and adjust it then go and fly? that seems like to much trouble.. i think i might get a beeper that automatically detects.. there only 9 bucks... or try my dx8 get the telemerty module
Are there concerns over connecting both the battery and the USB connection to the APM? Is anybody trying to use an unpowered USB connector to prevent possible frying of the APM due to the double power source?
+Cameron Stevens I do it that way, I mean, I made an USB cable without positive, I just cut the red cable, so I power my board with battery and monitor it with MP connected with this "special" usb. Never have connected battery and a live usb cable to my Apm, but doing like this way, works.
This method is not correct. Measuring the battery with no load gives you a different (higher) reading. The correct way to do it is to measure the battery voltage when is connected to the system and then do the calibration if need it.
+Paul Atreides I guess what you mean is that the battery voltage will sag when there's a load? I agree that's the case but here all we are doing is comparing the battery monitor's voltage reading to an external voltage meter's reading and adjusting a parameter to ensure they agree.
hy Mr. Randy Mackay I modify minimosd like in this site code.google.com/archive/p/rush-osd-development/wikis/Hardware_Mods.wiki I use the Crius AIO Pro board already in flash with APM firmware .. How do I get the actual value of the battery voltage can be equal to the value stated in the FPV OSD without using power modules ? what should I change again ? I was very plead with you to explain in detail and if you can make a video about how to modify minimosd to obtain the actual value of the battery voltage without the use of power modules on APM , particularly for display in FPV OSD please...
Thank you for your time to explain this calibration concept. I had a first go at it my self. I took the propellers off completely and my max Amps drawn were about 2amps.
Hence I understand that to drain about 10amps or more I need to keep propellers on but in flipped configuration. I will try it later on.
Please feel free to correct me guys ;)
I have the same.. Wo props max 2.amps
+Randy Mackay, just recently got back into flying. I am using a Pixhawk PX4 with the 3DR Power module. I am noticing shorter flight times because the low battery beep comes on very quickly. I am trying to determine if the power sensor is not reading properly, or if my old batteries (~2 years only about ~50 cycles) are to blame. The batteries charge fine btw.
Hey did you find solution
Great Vid mate, it worked a treat on my setup, thankyou.
thanks man. nifty trick of swapping the props, i always used a hand to hold the copter down, major pain in the A that way.
Thanks Randy for your clear VID explanation.
What will affected if only calibrated the Voltage BUT NOT the Amp ?
will it affect the flight or only MP showing the wrong info?
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. They are very helpful and informative.
SSBrealty, If you enable the low battery failsafe then it can trigger a LAND either when the voltage gets low or when it estimates that it's used up 100% of the battery capacity. So if the current is incorrect that second check might not trigger at the correct time.
If you really don't care about the current then you could change the battery monitor to only monitor voltage but that's a bad idea if you're using compassmot because it relies on the current monitor to get a good result.
Not sure if you noticed but when the craft is under load the voltage drops below the actual voltage of the battery. you can verify this by connecting a voltmeter directly to the battery while the craft is under load and you'll see the voltage difference changes about 1 volt and actually shut down my crafts thinking that the voltage is at a dangerous level when it's not .
there is a voltage drop between the battery terminal and the sensor and the software is not compensating for it. I ran into the same problem when I was programming my own amp meter. wasn't too difficult to compensate for in the software. not really sure why they don't have that option and this firmware as that was the very first problem I noticed when I was building my own wattmeter discharger/analyzer.
I suppose I can go into the firmware and update the software to compensate for it. but I don't think in the worry about that right now, I'm just going to disable the voltage and only use the milliamp hour to determine the remaining amount of battery.
Great video! Would you advice to use an external lipo buzzer module or is it possible to attach a buzzer directly to the board, for security reasons? Just in case that I want to fly my copter without the mission planer software and the lipo runs out of power?
After no help from anyone,i threw away that stupid attopilot 180a current sensor and bought the Mauch 200a current sensor that works amazingly and can detect the slightest amp draw.Very happy.
Please don't waste your money buying attopilot current sensor.😇
Hi Randy Mackay, thanks a lot for the video! One question though: My quad carries two 4S 5200mAh batteries in parallel but I calibrated with only one because I didn't want to solder the necessary XT60 2-to-1 adapter that would connect both of them to the watt-meter. Is the calibration still valid??
Randy Mackay Great video, but can you just plug the USB cable and the powermodule in at the same time without removing the 5V wire from the USB? I have read that some people have done this without a problem but others have burned out their boards.
Leandro Praxedes Ribeiro yes, this is a one-time calibration. As long as you don't change the power module on the vehicle it should be fine forever. For example, there's no need to re-do this calibration if you use different batteries.
+Randy Mackay thanks this is so helpful. I did not have a turnigy power monitor but with a multi-meter i managed that. I did that twice.
Hi Randy.I am using the attopilot 180A current sensor with my pixhawk.I'm having problem getting it to read current draw.Reading voltage is working fine.I check all the wires from the attopilot 180A to my pixhawk is correct.When i throttle up the X8 quad,mission planner showing the voltage reading is working but not the current...please help...
Hi! Is it strictly necessary to calibrate the Voltage and Current monitor to have the APM working properly or it's just for you to have a precise reading?
I'm asking that 'cause I've been experiencing some brownouts which have caused my quad to crash several times, so maybe the problem is that I've never calibrated the voltage¤t monitor...
Thanks!
Hi Randy! thanks for such a great and informative video. I have a Pixhawk running on 6S using a 3rd party voltage sensor I got from Amazon that is intended to power the Pixhawk from 6S voltage. I followed your instructions step by step, but I'm noticing that after cycling power on the Pixhawk, the voltage readings are off. And the current draw as well. It is almost as if the numbers I am entering are not being saved to the board. Di you know why this is the case?
+traxxi2003 Very hard to say. you could perhaps confirm that it's really caused by the parameter values not being saved by checking before and after the board is rebooted using the mission planner's full parameter list. I think the parameters will all start with BATT_
@caribbeanchild, it should still work with AC3.1.2. Can you be more specific about where it's not working? If you could report the issue in the APM forum that would be great, thanks.
Sir, can we consider only voltage calibration or we need to do both voltage and current calibration.
Thanks you sir
Swarna, only doing the voltage calibration is OK too.
At the battery monitor set up screen,when i select attopilot180a,the current reading is showing 139++Amp draw without even powering up the quad yet.After powering up the quad,raising throttle to half,reading on the MP screen show the same 139A draw..what is going on here Randy?please help.Thanks.
Thanks for your great video. It's useful to me as I am building my pixhawak quadcopter. As your external amp meter shows the voltage and current at the same time, why bother to use the multimeter? is there any difference? THanks
glad the videos are useful.
So we need to use the external multimeter just to ensure that the APM/Pixhawk voltage and current monitor is producing the correct numbers.
Randy Mackay thanks much for your reply.
Hello i am trying to set up my current in the pixhawk according to your video but i am stumped, my flight data screen does not have the status tab you clicked on to see the current status.could you tell me what to do about this? Thanks for any help
Hi Randy.
how to you get the osd overlay onto the "primary flight display" tab with APM planner?? admittedly I'm using v2.0.18 sp it may be different
After you get the current on the power analyzer and the flight data to match do i return the sonar setting to 3dr power module?
When i change it back my current go's back to the original setting and then the current is off again.
Very useful! Thank you Randy.
Hi Randy, thanks for the video explainer. I'm running the Mauch100A sensor with Pixhawk The Cube.
Followed your steps, and all fine with voltage.... awesome !
But I'm not getting any current readings through AP. Current in status listings does not move from 0, regardless of A/V entered....
Any ideas on how to fix this?
Chris, not sure what the issue is I'm afraid. I've never used the Mauch sensor myself. Perhaps make sure the BATT_MONITOR parameter is set to "4" (to measure both voltage and current). Beyond that perhaps post in the forums? discuss.ardupilot.org/c/arducopter/copter-36
Randy Mackay Thanks as always Randy for the feedback/support.
@@rmackay9 Setting is at 4, but perhaps I'm not throttling enough to draw 3A+. Will try again with the boat in the pool.
Another question I had was regarding the Rover - does this use the accelerometer/gyros in this mode? I would like to measure and store accelerations during a set routine/mission...
Chris, the dataflash log files will store the IMU data regardless of the mode so hopefully it has the data you're looking for. Let's move the discussion to the Rover forum if possible: discuss.ardupilot.org/c/ardurover
@@rmackay9 I've used the second Power port on the Pixhawk, and now have some readings, will post in the forum. Talk to you there-
Thanks
Never mind it showed up ,i now have the status tab,but my throttle will not let me get to 10 amps it starts out going slow and builds up but never gets to very much power, it would only put out 7 amps.
Not sure what would make it not let me give it more throttle. any ideas? Thanks
i've read somewhere that they fried their board connecting APM using USB cable and battery at the same time. How did you do yours without frying the board?
disconnect the SBEC from the esc to be safe
Great vid! Thanks Randy.
Always good info, thanks.
this no longer seems to work!... it has changed drastically somehow.... how hard can it be to measure voltage and current?
Hi mate, thank you for your video, what module did you use to measure the battery Current?
+Mac Niu I used a turnigy power analyzer. It doesn't seem that Hobby King sells them anymore. I can't immediately find another store that sells them.
Thank you for your reply mate!
May i ask how to calibrate MAUCH power modules (12 S set up: connect 2 6S in series) ?
Randy, please..once I did the calibration is it forever?
Very good info.
thank you Randy
Still having the same problem 8 months later.... if I calibrate the voltage with a new pack (around 12.5 volts) when I'm done flying the voltage displayed in MP is about 0.6 - 0.8 volt lower than what it actually is (displayed on the quad with a voltage display)... this is very important and just does not work! looking on the web I see that I'm not the only one having this problem.
hi.. do you know where i can buy the landing legs ?
Some of these common props cannot be installed upside down (well, not without damaging modifications). Is there any good reason why this test couldn't be done on motors without props installed, assuming you could get up to 10A or so? Thanks.
+Lauren Weinstein You're right that it's becoming more common for propellers to not be reversible (it's better if they're not for the most part because it makes it harder to put them on incorrectly). We need to put some load on the battery (and battery monitor) to get the current up high enough to calibrate it properly though and without the props on I think the load will be too low. I don't really have a solution for non-reversible props except to safety secure the vehicle down during the test and try and use longer wires somehow so you don't have to get too close to the vehicle.
+Randy Mackay I was afraid you'd say the load couldn't get up high enough without the props and was already thinking about how to tie everything down. Certainly doable, though it's bound to push up the adrenaline a bit more. Thanks for the advice and the video!
I do everythink like u say. If i use "APM2.5+ with 3DR" I have strane volt values (and every 1sec tilt about 1V). After that i use "APM2.5 non 3DR" and then also strange but when do volt calibration everythig is fire. But problem is with amper value. A in mission planner is always the same. I try to do amper meter calibration with props on and calibrate amper meter and nothing happend when i turn down trottle. Mesured value is cca 10A and put down in Mission planner Battery monitor page and when pull down throttle amper sill set to 10A (in Mission Planner. Dont go down. Thx for help.
+Mateo Gašparović i also have this problem... i still not fine the solution
+Mateo Gašparović This sounds very much like a hardware issue with the power module.
+Randy Mackay As mentioned to Mateo above, this sounds very much like a hardware issue with the power module.
Randy Mackay thank u sir... thank god.. is not APM problem is Power module problem
when i input the value 0 at the current bracket,at MP main screen show 0.After powering up the quad and raise the throttle to half,the amp reading still remain 0...please help
Hi randy... I'm using gimbal,4 led and camera on single battery this calibration still efective???
+sondang Pangaribuan yes, I think it doesn't really matter what's attached, the procedure is the same.
Hey Randy, I alternate between 3s and 4s batteries on my Pixhawk and I have to manually calibrate the the alarm settings every time. Is there to automate this? Maybe the FC can detect the cell count every time?
Sergio Orjuela at the moment there's no way to do that. Switching batteries will also affect your copter's tuning parameters as well I think.
In AC3.3 we support smart batteries and voltage scaling but the smart battery at least will require new hardware (wiki page will be released before AC3.3 goes live).
Thanks Randy
Hi Randy,
I recently tried this method, could it be that this does not work anymore?
If I arm the motors in stabilize mode as soon if I raise the throttle to have enough current flowing thru the sensor the motors keeps on spinning higher and higher.
So I can not manualy set the throttle to get 10 Ampere for the calibration.
Do you have any solution to this?
Pikku Jenny from da hood
I don't understand your reaction by be so friendly (sarcasm).
What flight mode is a manual mode?
In all modes the flight controller interfering the throttle position therefore I can not set the desired throttle.
For some reason the flight controller keeps on push the throttle upwards.
I have solve it by using a constant load to calibrate the sensor.
Sir, when we are did battery voltage calibration, for mission planner is showing less voltage than hand held volt meter. Due Due this problem my drone is coming to RTL after 50 seconds of my take off. Please guide me about this sir.
Thank you Sir.
Great Video clip....Thanks....:)
does the lipo have to be fully charged when you calibrate the voltage?
+Matthew Farrugia No, it doesn't. The voltage monitor will be most accurate at the voltage that you calibrate it at though. Personally I calibrate it when it's full but it shouldn't matter much.
what happens if you use diffrent battries every flight say a 4 cell then it dies then a 3 cell and so on.. will this work? or you have to use one type of battery all the time?
The voltage and current monitoring will still work fine if you switch the batteries. What will need to be adjusted though is the failsafe values. So if you move from a 3S to a 4S battery you'd need to increase the failsafe's minimum voltage so that the battery failsafe triggers.
Randy Mackay so every time i plug in a diffrent battery i have to go into my pc and adjust it then go and fly? that seems like to much trouble.. i think i might get a beeper that automatically detects.. there only 9 bucks... or try my dx8 get the telemerty module
good job
and thanks
Thanks randy!
Can I input 10000 mah in Battery Monitor (one)? If only using one big battery, does Battery Monitor 2 need any settings?
+ShadowQuad If you're only using one battery, no need to put anything into the battery monitor 2 settings. a single 10,000mAh battery should be fine.
Are there concerns over connecting both the battery and the USB connection to the APM? Is anybody trying to use an unpowered USB connector to prevent possible frying of the APM due to the double power source?
+Cameron Stevens I do it that way, I mean, I made an USB cable without positive, I just cut the red cable, so I power my board with battery and monitor it with MP connected with this "special" usb. Never have connected battery and a live usb cable to my Apm, but doing like this way, works.
Well I don't have deep knowledge but this process is not working for my orange cube,i can't get the proper voltage to it
Mine was way low it said it should be 17 I needed 170 lol thanks Amazon for a odd ball current measurement.
Wanna see me do this with a hexacopter? There's a fire at the end. Check out my latest video. Drones, ugh!
This method is not correct. Measuring the battery with no load gives you a different (higher) reading. The correct way to do it is to measure the battery voltage when is connected to the system and then do the calibration if need it.
+Paul Atreides I guess what you mean is that the battery voltage will sag when there's a load? I agree that's the case but here all we are doing is comparing the battery monitor's voltage reading to an external voltage meter's reading and adjusting a parameter to ensure they agree.
hy Mr. Randy Mackay
I modify minimosd like in this site code.google.com/archive/p/rush-osd-development/wikis/Hardware_Mods.wiki
I use the Crius AIO Pro board already in flash with APM firmware ..
How do I get the actual value of the battery voltage can be equal to the value stated in the FPV OSD without using power modules ?
what should I change again ?
I was very plead with you to explain in detail and if you can make a video about how to modify minimosd to obtain the actual value of the battery voltage without the use of power modules on APM , particularly for display in FPV OSD
please...