That turned out well Max. It is a lot of finicky work to make some of these parts but it is satisfying when they turn out. A while ago someone on Practical Machinist commented that the rise of carbide insert facemills spelled the end of the shaper. Watching this I tend to agree. Olga would have machined the three edges off that bracket in three passes using the horizontal spindle. Before I got my horizontal mill I used to machine the edges of flame cut parts with my shaper (much lighter than yours). I was amazed at how well the HSS tools hold up when they are used in a shaper. I'm not sure why but they seem to take way more abuse in a shaper than they will in a lathe. Ken
G'day Max, 5.00am coffee and start the day watching this, perfect, always enjoy your videos, and learn heaps too my mate, have a great one, thanks for sharing, and best wishes to you and yours
Dear Max, fresh to watching your show and two things I have noticed. You work through more tools in depth than anyone else I have seen on YT. I like the fact that you realise that you won’t be seeing me but I will see you. Nobody on entire YT domain has gotten that right before you. One thing with the low arm for your slotting head. You can get a spacer to lift up your working body about 400mm. It will be a pain to install but in the end will give you plenty of extra height on both sides of the Bridgeport.
Hi Max, good video. Having never touched a Shaper I’m enjoying the tutorial. But having some time on a slotter watching you gave me a smile. Once had to join a pump motor to a generator . Made an adapter with an internal spline one end to slotted keyed socket other end. Five minute job…. Obviously.
Decent result Max. I never got to use one of these slotter attachments on bridgeport or like the mills. Ive only used the purpose built ones, the monsters and the easy to operate ones. The huge brown & sharp slotter I used had no clapper on it, ridgity was the key to deal with deflection. We used trefolex, and waited till tool pressure cleared last cut before adding another.
Hi Max, I wouldn't bother with what you are calling the nod on your new bracket. If you turn the tool holder round 90 degs you can set the head over to allow you to cut a keyway in a tapered bore. ( at least that's what I do now). Works a treat. Best wishes, Mal.
Hey Max, I was thinking, there is a RUclipsr named Paul Brodie, a pretty famous Canadian bike builder (he does awesome silver solder work!) and he uses what he calls a spiral roll to polish his angled frame joints, and it works a treat in the hard to reach places. It's tapered and rolled sandpaper (coned shape) about 2 inches or so long (maybe a tad longer) and he uses them in a pneumatic rotary tool (a drill would work well too, a high rpm one is better I imagine), and they have a shank on them to chuck down on. They polish really well, and can get into places that are hard to reach. He uses them to polish his welded joints on the frames, mostly his silver solder work, but also his tig welds. The diameter looks like about an inch or so on the big end, and around 1\4 to 3\8 on the small end. Not sure where he gets them, probably McMaster Carr, but I can find out if your interested. I was thinking that it would have worked well to get the finish you were looking for on the part you just slotted.
@@swanvalleymachineshop found them on McMaster-Carr under spiral wound sanding rolls. It requires buying a separate shank adapter for using the rolls. I didn't look at the prices, but I have seen them in use, and know that whatever the price, they are well worth it. They are very effective, as the roll wears, it exposes fresh sanding material. Only thing you need to be aware of is to not use the small portion on the very end hardly at all if at all, as that can cause the roll to unwind, because there is glue in those areas in order to hold its shape. I know you will love using them in areas that are hard to reach, like the part you just made
@@hrd998cc yes, I am aware of that, but most people who have a competent imagination can find ways to get products from McMaster-Carr delivered to them outside of the US, it is not that hard really, but definitely a pain in the arse. The UPS store comes to mind, as I think it is possible to get items shipped to one of their numerous stores, and then shipped elsewhere, but don't quote me on that as I am unsure. I personally would have no problem serving as a go between to get them to Max.
Maybe turn the tool 180 degrees in the clapper so the tool pressure tends to close the clapper rather than tend to open it? I do this on my shaper when cutting keyways.
Nothing to that job eh Max? Just three setups to modify the mounting bracket, and a total rebuild of the slotting head to do a one of part! 😂 Absolutely love your videos and always learn something from them.
Vision would be restricted too much . I have cut blind keyways in the shaper before , but not anything further down a restricted hole like this was . Cheers 👍
Hi Max, our forefathers were pretty good machinists, in this case it might have been a Woman slotting the feature. Seen wartime documentaries with Woman using Shapers. A narrower tool insert will reduce the tool deflection but increase the time to manufacture but you achieved the desired result, good job.
Nice to see the slotting head working. Wondered if it would help to mill a small flat on the side of the tool shank, before sharpening it, something to be able to repeat the orientation of the tool. Also, watching how you ended up doing this, thought if the tool could be rotated through a small angle in the sharpening fixture, could grind the 2 sides of the tool to the angle corresponding to the width of the tip, then it could be used for both ends of the gap.. icing on the cake if there was a simple way to grind the right radius on the too between the 2 sides (center may not corresond with the center of the shank?), maybe could grind two facets perpendicular to the sides of the tool & free-hand the radius between these? Also, as much as we love shapers, that looked like a great job for a bandsaw (unless risking the blade with the hard surface..).. Great video!
I did think about that , but would have drilled a couple of holes & plug welded it in place . But then i would not have had my slotting head fixed ! Cheers 👍
interesting as always - thank you 👍 my original Bridgeport head bracket is much more "dinky" and is a fork with plate on top and bottom, rather than just single plate like yours be interesting to see how yours will stand up in use just "hanging on the bolt nut" ? look forward to more videos about slotting head tools
On a shaper you can make whatever you want. Even if it's vertical :) What could maybe help to control the tool flex is to cut the whole surface with the slotting head. Or on the shaper... Just an idea.
Hi Max great fimtografie there solved the problem and completed the part also got the new old machine thingie up and going nice to watch glad you seeded up the job for us as that would have tested the limitations of my Medication for sure Always the teacher and I always the eager Student for sure thanks Max for taking the time to show the build and the how to use Just one thing with the small edge on start of slotting could that come down to the mount you say your going to make more better ? Nice job Cheers
The digital angle gauges are pretty fantastic, we cut gears with WW2 era machines, you set hob lead angle with a vernier that gets no better then 10 minutes of angle, and bevel gears with similar accuracy. between dirt, poor lighting and less than stellar vision and inevitable paralax error its amazing they work as well as they do, but they do.
I am not inclined to do it but if I were to do a stress analysis of the connection between the mounting bracket and the mounting end of the machine we would be able to see if there would be much difference if the bracket were mounted on the top. Having experience in this type of thing I am thinking it wouldn't make much difference in the overall stiffness of the set up. Stiffness is the resistance to deformation. Wish there were more hours in a day. This would be an interesting and fun thing to look into. Thank you for a very well done video
Thanks . Yes , it would be interesting to see test results on that . Think of where the fulcrum of the flex point is , say caused by any stretch in the bolt . Cheers 👍
Yeah I've had to do similar things with the top and side rake to get my E head cutting. Agree with using the largest diameter tool shank you can fit in the bore, with short cutter projection and honed edges. You did get it cutting well though. I mostly do internal keyways with mine.
Lovely job there Max. If I had been making this and not having any means of slotting as you have, I think I would have made a seperate insert and silver soldered it into the bore.
In the shops I worked in we used to grind thru the flame cut edge if we had to drill thru it or machine it with an offhand grinder. Enjoy your advanced setups and solutions to very interesting projects Max.
Thanks Max, this video is really packed with interesting stuff. 👍 Despite having visited hundreds of shops and factories over a lifetime, I don’t think I ever chanced to spy a slotting head in operation. Certainly I never used one myself (yet). How nice to see a big Starrett indicator on the job in Oz! I live near the Starrett factory, so naturally I’m a fan. The company logo looks nice, doesn’t it? You probably know that a gear sector is a key ingredient in those indicators; it’s fascinating to watch those being made. They use high speed CNC shapers to form the tiny, precise gear teeth. The shapers stroke so quickly the motion is just a blur.
G'day Max. Excellent job on the Slotting Head Assembly which worked out very well. You had a good Master Class in setting up & operating the the Rotary Head coupled with the Slotting Jig. Overall it was a Great Job well done, My question is, could the cutting tool have been a fraction wider & slightly rounded for a quicker finish ?
Another piece of shop equipment brought back to life so you can finish off these 'tractor' parts. I'm guessing that tractor could have been a WW2 era Fordson model 2LB ;) Keep going like this Max, and would could see more machinery resurrection in your new shop :)
@@davidcat1455 I understand that RUclips has some fancy algorithms that does not promote videos that use certain words in their titles or comments, so I'm just playing safe so Max's content / videos are not demonetized etc...
Thanks Max, for the "trifecta". Interesting to follow your thought process through a complicated and thorough process. You made it entertaining to say the least. The shop looks great. Cheers.
Well done Max, still think a half cup welded in place would have been quicker but fully get you wanted to make it as original. I don't have a sloter so have to find ways to make things
No worries . Yes , drill & plug weld if i do another one ! But wanted this one the same . It was a good excuse to get the slotter up & running . Cheers 👍
100% I have been messing around on the mill for hrs making a new mount for my .270 rifle so I can use my digital scope and then swap back the main scope... the rail has 20 moa or .035" taper so that has to be accounted for lol
Enjoying the video capture of chip product form. Some very nice demonstration of precision and how to think about tool form and motion. Nice to see the shop layout and working process Max. Thanks for having me along. M.
Awesome video Max on the workings of the slotting head! I was very interested in the engineering and operation of slotting head. Cheers from Minnesota!
My thought process was similar, probably because i don't have a slotting head for my mill. Same rotary table setup, but use a long series carbide end mill to sweep the half-circumference in a couple of passes, then manually slot out the corners using the quill . . . . . . That said, if I'd just spent that much time and energy refurbishing the slotting head, I'd probably have tried to use it too ! Either way, the job's a good'un . . . . . . . . .
Great job Max. I always look forward to your videos. Question- what is all the orange silicone crap on your rotary table. That appears to be a South Bend from Grizzly tools, I have been looking for a table and I like that there's have 6 T-slots and I think it's made in Taiwan. But that orange crap got me curious as to what the hell is going on with that, could you tell me what you think of it. Also do you all have Grizzly tools over there? I thought they were just in the US. Cheers Max! Keep up the great video's we appreciate your hard work! 👍
Maybe when you make your adjustable bracket for the slotting head, you could include a cross slide with gib & lead screw & nut so that you have longer upwards and downwards travel to give you more setup options. 😉👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop Can’t argue with that. I wouldn’t want to have to do it, just I figured if anyone had the skills, ability, and machines to be able to do it, would be you. 😉😂😂
I thought the mount would be upside down to the way it’s installed, with the side support brackets on the bottom so that the head could be swiveled around more. Unless you think that would make the clearance too small.
Max, it looks and sounds like you ministration to the slotting head have born sweet fruit. She sounds smooth and bobs up and down real nice, kudos on a job well done.
@ 22:28 Mate, sandwich the plates...??? Have two of the buggers, the top one welded, bottom one...bolted..??? or not. Give you the strength you need.??? 😮😊
Love Monday nights in England. I get to watch one of the best engineers on Yt, I don't care how long the videos are, This 20 min YT logarithm is bullshit, in my opinion, 20 mins is too short. I am pleased you take no notice of this
I suspect the clapper on a Bridgport type slotter is only going to work with very short tooling in the vertical orientation or tooling in the horizontal location in the tool block, the geometry isn't advantageous enough with long vertical tooling used to get into smaller diameter bores, the clapper pivot axis is too close to cut line of the tool so the tool pressure pushing the tool off is enough to overcome the cutting force trying to pull the tool in, the longer the tool the worse it gets. You can get the same issues on a horizontal shaper if you use a very long internal cutting tool mounted in place of the standard lantern tool holder, which is why the manual for such should state the distance between the tool and clapper box face, on my Elliott 18" it is 7" to the rear edge of the tool, but you do always have gravity on you side on a horizontal as well.
I have never used either a slotting head or a shaper. So I wonder why you would use the slotting head over the shaper to do this job? Could the rotary table setup been flipped to vertical and put on the shaper table? THANKS
That turned out well Max. It is a lot of finicky work to make some of these parts but it is satisfying when they turn out. A while ago someone on Practical Machinist commented that the rise of carbide insert facemills spelled the end of the shaper. Watching this I tend to agree. Olga would have machined the three edges off that bracket in three passes using the horizontal spindle. Before I got my horizontal mill I used to machine the edges of flame cut parts with my shaper (much lighter than yours). I was amazed at how well the HSS tools hold up when they are used in a shaper. I'm not sure why but they seem to take way more abuse in a shaper than they will in a lathe. Ken
Thanks Ken . Yes , the mill would have done it in a fraction of the time . I like to give the shaper a run every now & then ! Cheers 👍
Great job Max, a bit challenging, but not as challenging as getting the slotting head sorted out after being butchered by the last guy!
Thanks 👍
G'day Max, 5.00am coffee and start the day watching this, perfect, always enjoy your videos, and learn heaps too my mate, have a great one, thanks for sharing, and best wishes to you and yours
Cheers Ralfy 👍👍👍
Dear Max, fresh to watching your show and two things I have noticed. You work through more tools in depth than anyone else I have seen on YT. I like the fact that you realise that you won’t be seeing me but I will see you. Nobody on entire YT domain has gotten that right before you.
One thing with the low arm for your slotting head. You can get a spacer to lift up your working body about 400mm. It will be a pain to install but in the end will give you plenty of extra height on both sides of the Bridgeport.
Thanks . 👍
Spot on Max, bloody good job that!
Thanks 👍
Superb work Max 👌
Cheers Chris
Thanks 👍
Excellent 👍
Thanks 👍
good end result max !
cheers
ben
Thanks 👍
Many thanks Max. Positively brilliant!
No worries 👍
Gday Max, the slotting head works a treat, I’d say that’s the end of slotting by hand now, great job mate, cheers
Cheers Matty . If it just a tiny bit , i might do by hand . But yes , the hand slotting days are over ! 👍
very good video friend Max
Thanks 👍
Hi Max, good video.
Having never touched a Shaper I’m enjoying the tutorial.
But having some time on a slotter watching you gave me a smile.
Once had to join a pump motor to a generator .
Made an adapter with an internal spline one end to slotted keyed socket other end.
Five minute job…. Obviously.
Thanks 👍
That a nice bit of kit that Max. Wish I had one. Cheers
Thanks 👍
Decent result Max. I never got to use one of these slotter attachments on bridgeport or like the mills. Ive only used the purpose built ones, the monsters and the easy to operate ones. The huge brown & sharp slotter I used had no clapper on it, ridgity was the key to deal with deflection. We used trefolex, and waited till tool pressure cleared last cut before adding another.
Thanks . I might swap the clapper for a solid tool mount . 👍
Hi Max, I wouldn't bother with what you are calling the nod on your new bracket. If you turn the tool holder round 90 degs you can set the head over to allow you to cut a keyway in a tapered bore. ( at least that's what I do now). Works a treat. Best wishes, Mal.
It would just give a bit of extra adjustment . But yes , rotate 90 deg would work . Cheers 👍
Enjoyed the discussion/build…success…nice job
Thanks Chuck 👍
Hey Max, I was thinking, there is a RUclipsr named Paul Brodie, a pretty famous Canadian bike builder (he does awesome silver solder work!) and he uses what he calls a spiral roll to polish his angled frame joints, and it works a treat in the hard to reach places. It's tapered and rolled sandpaper (coned shape) about 2 inches or so long (maybe a tad longer) and he uses them in a pneumatic rotary tool (a drill would work well too, a high rpm one is better I imagine), and they have a shank on them to chuck down on. They polish really well, and can get into places that are hard to reach. He uses them to polish his welded joints on the frames, mostly his silver solder work, but also his tig welds. The diameter looks like about an inch or so on the big end, and around 1\4 to 3\8 on the small end. Not sure where he gets them, probably McMaster Carr, but I can find out if your interested. I was thinking that it would have worked well to get the finish you were looking for on the part you just slotted.
Thanks . I have not seen them . I can look them up . Cheers 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop found them on McMaster-Carr under spiral wound sanding rolls. It requires buying a separate shank adapter for using the rolls. I didn't look at the prices, but I have seen them in use, and know that whatever the price, they are well worth it. They are very effective, as the roll wears, it exposes fresh sanding material. Only thing you need to be aware of is to not use the small portion on the very end hardly at all if at all, as that can cause the roll to unwind, because there is glue in those areas in order to hold its shape. I know you will love using them in areas that are hard to reach, like the part you just made
@@ericpatterson3887 McMaster-Carr do not sell outside of USA.
@@hrd998cc yes, I am aware of that, but most people who have a competent imagination can find ways to get products from McMaster-Carr delivered to them outside of the US, it is not that hard really, but definitely a pain in the arse. The UPS store comes to mind, as I think it is possible to get items shipped to one of their numerous stores, and then shipped elsewhere, but don't quote me on that as I am unsure. I personally would have no problem serving as a go between to get them to Max.
Maybe turn the tool 180 degrees in the clapper so the tool pressure tends to close the clapper rather than tend to open it? I do this on my shaper when cutting keyways.
That is what i do in my shaper as well . Never having used it , i wanted to see how it went . Cheers 👍
Hi Max looks like the first job on the slotting head tuned out very good. Needs a little tweaking as is the case most of the time. Cheers
Thanks . 👍
Great job max not easy to copy that part for sure👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Good tip about talking up the backlash on the shaper downfeed thanks.
Cheers 👍
Nothing to that job eh Max? Just three setups to modify the mounting bracket, and a total rebuild of the slotting head to do a one of part! 😂 Absolutely love your videos and always learn something from them.
Cheers 👍
very nice. You mentioned using a shaper and you are right it is possible.
Vision would be restricted too much . I have cut blind keyways in the shaper before , but not anything further down a restricted hole like this was . Cheers 👍
Hi Max, our forefathers were pretty good machinists, in this case it might have been a Woman slotting the feature.
Seen wartime documentaries with Woman using Shapers.
A narrower tool insert will reduce the tool deflection but increase the time to manufacture but you achieved the desired result, good job.
Cheers . The tool was very narrow , i did not expect that amount of push off . 👍
Nice to see the slotting head working.
Wondered if it would help to mill a small flat on the side of the tool shank, before sharpening it, something to be able to repeat the orientation of the tool. Also, watching how you ended up doing this, thought if the tool could be rotated through a small angle in the sharpening fixture, could grind the 2 sides of the tool to the angle corresponding to the width of the tip, then it could be used for both ends of the gap.. icing on the cake if there was a simple way to grind the right radius on the too between the 2 sides (center may not corresond with the center of the shank?), maybe could grind two facets perpendicular to the sides of the tool & free-hand the radius between these?
Also, as much as we love shapers, that looked like a great job for a bandsaw (unless risking the blade with the hard surface..)..
Great video!
I was thinking about an indexing flat on the tool . Cheers 👍
Max. Challenging job nicely done, I would have silver soldered a half of a tube instead 🤦🏼♂️🤣👍🏴
They were my thoughts as well.
I did think about that , but would have drilled a couple of holes & plug welded it in place . But then i would not have had my slotting head fixed ! Cheers 👍
interesting as always - thank you 👍
my original Bridgeport head bracket is much more "dinky" and is a fork with plate on top and bottom,
rather than just single plate like yours
be interesting to see how yours will stand up in use just "hanging on the bolt nut" ?
look forward to more videos about slotting head tools
Thanks 👍
Max, I always get something out of your videos. That was very impressive.
Jeff-North Central Illinois-USA
Thanks 👍
Good one Max. 👍
Cheers Tom 👍
Great insight into slotting Max, lot of work to get there, but its ready now 👍.
Thanks for sharing
No worries 👍
That sure did turn out great.
Thanks Rob . 👍
The slotting head lives and delivers.. Nice conclusion to the cam socket limit spring holder screw in thingy.
Great series 👍👍
Cheers....
Thanks Dean . Was good it all went somewhat according to plan . If the tool bit does not fall out or snap off , all is good ! 👍
On a shaper you can make whatever you want. Even if it's vertical :)
What could maybe help to control the tool flex is to cut the whole surface with the slotting head. Or on the shaper...
Just an idea.
That is how they cut the original one , but they must have had a bigger diameter tool . 👍
Hi Max great fimtografie there solved the problem and completed the part also got the new old machine thingie up and going nice to watch glad you seeded up the job for us as that would have tested the limitations of my Medication for sure
Always the teacher and I always the eager Student for sure thanks Max for taking the time to show the build and the how to use
Just one thing with the small edge on start of slotting could that come down to the mount you say your going to make more better ?
Nice job Cheers
Thanks . No it was from tool push off . Cheers 👍
The digital angle gauges are pretty fantastic, we cut gears with WW2 era machines, you set hob lead angle with a vernier that gets no better then 10 minutes of angle, and bevel gears with similar accuracy. between dirt, poor lighting and less than stellar vision and inevitable paralax error its amazing they work as well as they do, but they do.
I only just got this one , seems alright so far . Seems to save a lot of mucking around for a quick set up . Cheers 👍
I am not inclined to do it but if I were to do a stress analysis of the connection between the mounting bracket and the mounting end of the machine we would be able to see if there would be much difference if the bracket were mounted on the top. Having experience in this type of thing I am thinking it wouldn't make much difference in the overall stiffness of the set up. Stiffness is the resistance to deformation. Wish there were more hours in a day. This would be an interesting and fun thing to look into.
Thank you for a very well done video
Thanks . Yes , it would be interesting to see test results on that . Think of where the fulcrum of the flex point is , say caused by any stretch in the bolt . Cheers 👍
Great job Max. Really enjoyed the series. Thanks
No worries 👍
Good work Max.
I think that you are definitely ready to start slotting.
Everything is coming together nicely. 👍👍
Cheers 👍👍.
Thanks 👍
Yeah I've had to do similar things with the top and side rake to get my E head cutting. Agree with using the largest diameter tool shank you can fit in the bore, with short cutter projection and honed edges. You did get it cutting well though. I mostly do internal keyways with mine.
No worries 👍
Complicated. . You did a great job. . fantastic showing us the difficulties. Cheers.
Thanks 👍
Lovely job there Max. If I had been making this and not having any means of slotting as you have, I think I would have made a seperate insert and silver soldered it into the bore.
Plug weld the insert was my plan B ! Cheers 👍
In the shops I worked in we used to grind thru the flame cut edge if we had to drill thru it or machine it with an offhand grinder. Enjoy your advanced setups and solutions to very interesting projects Max.
Thanks . Yes , i knocked off the edges with the grinder for the two angled areas . Cheers 👍
You'd think there would be a lot simpler way they would have built that, like spot weld a piece inside there. Great work you did there. Cheers
Thanks 👍
Wow. That is a process getting here. Nice work Max
Thanks 👍
Thanks Max, this video is really packed with interesting stuff. 👍 Despite having visited hundreds of shops and factories over a lifetime, I don’t think I ever chanced to spy a slotting head in operation. Certainly I never used one myself (yet).
How nice to see a big Starrett indicator on the job in Oz! I live near the Starrett factory, so naturally I’m a fan. The company logo looks nice, doesn’t it? You probably know that a gear sector is a key ingredient in those indicators; it’s fascinating to watch those being made. They use high speed CNC shapers to form the tiny, precise gear teeth. The shapers stroke so quickly the motion is just a blur.
Thanks . I love their tools . I watched Adam Booth's tour , an impressive place for sure . Cheers 👍
G'day Max. Excellent job on the Slotting Head Assembly which worked out very well.
You had a good Master Class in setting up & operating the the Rotary Head coupled with the Slotting Jig.
Overall it was a Great Job well done,
My question is, could the cutting tool have been a fraction wider & slightly rounded for a quicker finish ?
It would give more tool push off . 👍
That looks like a win to me. It was nice to see the final assembly.
Thanks 👍
Another piece of shop equipment brought back to life so you can finish off these 'tractor' parts. I'm guessing that tractor could have been a WW2 era Fordson model 2LB ;) Keep going like this Max, and would could see more machinery resurrection in your new shop :)
You can just say gun. 🤷
No worries . I will get a couple of shots off it when complete . 👍
@@davidcat1455 I understand that RUclips has some fancy algorithms that does not promote videos that use certain words in their titles or comments, so I'm just playing safe so Max's content / videos are not demonetized etc...
@@paulhammond7489
Yeah, I figured that. However, I don’t think Max would be penalised for something a commentor said.
Hi Max. Good stuff! How about using a broach guide to stiffen your tool? No pun intended!
Thanks . There would not be enough room . Might work for a keyway with a modified tool . Cheers 👍
Thanks Max, for the "trifecta". Interesting to follow your thought process through a complicated and thorough process. You made it entertaining to say the least. The shop looks great. Cheers.
Thanks 👍
Great video. Reinforces the saying that no one ever made money with a shaper 😂
Lol , Too bloody true . Would have taken bugger all to knock those edges off in the mill ! Cheers 👍
good job 👍
Thanks 👍
Well done Max, still think a half cup welded in place would have been quicker but fully get you wanted to make it as original. I don't have a sloter so have to find ways to make things
No worries . Yes , drill & plug weld if i do another one ! But wanted this one the same . It was a good excuse to get the slotter up & running . Cheers 👍
100% I have been messing around on the mill for hrs making a new mount for my .270 rifle so I can use my digital scope and then swap back the main scope... the rail has 20 moa or .035" taper so that has to be accounted for lol
Max, riser block(s), 3, 5 or 8 inch.
Best wishes from Northern Manitoba.
I have thought about a riser but i like the low height for easier tool changes . Cheers 👍
Very nice Max. The slow-mo shouts are awesome.
That is what i do in the shaper as well . Cheers 👍
Enjoying the video capture of chip product form. Some very nice demonstration of precision and how to think about tool form and motion. Nice to see the shop layout and working process Max. Thanks for having me along. M.
Thanks 👍
The slo mo shots are EXCELLENT! Really enjoyed seeing those chips curl and fly. Brilliant stuff as usual.
Thanks 👍
This is such a good series! Enjoyed EVERY SEC of it!
Greg
Thanks 👍
G'day Max , Interesting watching you use a shaper to work on a slotter. Cheers.
Both the slow and fast motion vidios were great.
Thanks 👍
Awesome video Max on the workings of the slotting head! I was very interested in the engineering and operation of slotting head. Cheers from Minnesota!
No worries 👍
You'll be making keyways like nobody's buisiness Max. Interesting job and exellent solutions mate, well done, it was very nice to watch, cheers.
Thanks 👍
Great video mate
Cheers 👍
good work max
Thanks 👍
Nice camera work capturing the almost impossible, thanks.
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the show Max 🍻
No worries 👍
G' Day MAX Great Video Sir . Cheers From Oklahoma
Thanks 👍
Very interesting stuff, I can see where a slotting head would suit a WW2 production environment.
Cheers 👍
A good job Max. And a nice slotting head to.
Thanks 👍
This was a great series, Max! I really enjoyed it and learned a lot.
No worries 👍
Thanks for the video.
No worries 👍
Could you have used a small mill cutter to take out most of the material and just use the slotter to square off the ends?
My thought process was similar, probably because i don't have a slotting head for my mill. Same rotary table setup, but use a long series carbide end mill to sweep the half-circumference in a couple of passes, then manually slot out the corners using the quill . . . . . . That said, if I'd just spent that much time and energy refurbishing the slotting head, I'd probably have tried to use it too ! Either way, the job's a good'un . . . . . . . . .
I nearly did do it that way , but i wanted to give the slotter a good go & see how it went . Cheers 👍
👍nice job
Thanks 👍
Great job Max. I always look forward to your videos. Question- what is all the orange silicone crap on your rotary table. That appears to be a South Bend from Grizzly tools, I have been looking for a table and I like that there's have 6 T-slots and I think it's made in Taiwan. But that orange crap got me curious as to what the hell is going on with that, could you tell me what you think of it. Also do you all have Grizzly tools over there? I thought they were just in the US. Cheers Max! Keep up the great video's we appreciate your hard work! 👍
The rotary table , i bought off Amazon about 10 years ago . The red stuff is silastic to keep the flood coolant from running off the edges ! Cheers
Thank you Max!
No worries 👍
Maybe when you make your adjustable bracket for the slotting head, you could include a cross slide with gib & lead screw & nut so that you have longer upwards and downwards travel to give you more setup options. 😉👍
No , that is too complicated ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop Can’t argue with that. I wouldn’t want to have to do it, just I figured if anyone had the skills, ability, and machines to be able to do it, would be you. 😉😂😂
Fantastic Max, enjoy watching and learning from an experienced machinist.
No worries 👍
I thought the mount would be upside down to the way it’s installed, with the side support brackets on the bottom so that the head could be swiveled around more. Unless you think that would make the clearance too small.
Clearance was the issue there as i did not want to mount it on top the other way around . 👍
Plenty clearance Clarence.
That's it ! 👍
Another awesome video Max, from kiwi land
Thanks 👍
Great work old mate , regards from Mt Hawthorn.
Cheers 👍
Max, it looks and sounds like you ministration to the slotting head have born sweet fruit. She sounds smooth and bobs up and down real nice, kudos on a job well done.
Cheers 👍
@ 22:28 Mate, sandwich the plates...??? Have two of the buggers, the top one welded, bottom one...bolted..??? or not. Give you the strength you need.??? 😮😊
The one i make later on , will be like that . This one came with the slotter ! 👍
Hi Grant! Do you think that maybe the original piece was slotted from the top edge, rather than down at the lower point? Ron...
It was . Cheers 👍
Great video Max, Mike from Texas 👍
Thanks 👍
I think you need a planer to finish of your shop .
Kit from up north
That would be good ! 👍
I wonder if a radius on the cutting edge for the final pass would help...
I stoned one on to get rid of the sharp corner . Cheers 👍
Love Monday nights in England. I get to watch one of the best engineers on Yt, I don't care how long the videos are, This 20 min YT logarithm is bullshit, in my opinion, 20 mins is too short. I am pleased you take no notice of this
Thanks . Yes 20 min , it's over before it began ! 👍
Excellent video. Thanks.
Cheers 👍
Difficult job....nice work !!!
Thanks 👍
I suspect the clapper on a Bridgport type slotter is only going to work with very short tooling in the vertical orientation or tooling in the horizontal location in the tool block, the geometry isn't advantageous enough with long vertical tooling used to get into smaller diameter bores, the clapper pivot axis is too close to cut line of the tool so the tool pressure pushing the tool off is enough to overcome the cutting force trying to pull the tool in, the longer the tool the worse it gets.
You can get the same issues on a horizontal shaper if you use a very long internal cutting tool mounted in place of the standard lantern tool holder, which is why the manual for such should state the distance between the tool and clapper box face, on my Elliott 18" it is 7" to the rear edge of the tool, but you do always have gravity on you side on a horizontal as well.
In the shaper , i turn the slotting tool upside down so the edge is at the top . Cheers 👍
Nice one !!
Cheers 👍
I've never had any luck with the stock BP clapper, never a problem just locking it solid.
I might take it off & go with a solid tool block . Cheers Stan 👍
What would happen if you turned the tool 180° in the holder ?
Would the clapper box behave ?
Probably could , it may cause the tool to dig in & break . 👍
That is a great project and useful too. I know where a slotting head is, maybe I can get one.
Cheers Don . 👍
great video thanks for it
No worries 👍
I have never used either a slotting head or a shaper. So I wonder why you would use the slotting head over the shaper to do this job? Could the rotary table setup been flipped to vertical and put on the shaper table? THANKS
On the shaper , you would not be able to see what you are doing . 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop As simple as that. I was so busy looking at technical reasons the obvious escaped me. THANKS and keep up the vids.
Pretty neat process
Thanks 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop you went the long way around the barn for that part you were making
Question Max: why not the mill instead of shaper? Personal preference?
It would be too difficult to see what you are doing in the shaper . 👍
Thx. for the vid. Part turned out Great.
Thanks 👍
It might be a stupid question but you with mill and a shaper what do you want a slotting head for?
For jobs like that . In a shaper , you would not be able to see what you are doing . 👍