My td27kv2 is coming tomorrow and im excited. I really appreciate the info, especially with the module placement. I didnt know that was an issue and now I already have a good solution for it. Thank you!
@@sinfulpsyche btw, the upgrade talked about concerning the module placement in this video is not needed. I have the same kit and solved it like this: lower the left horizontal bar about 6cm, which will make the outer left stand raise 6cm above the horizontal bar. Then you can mount the module with the clamp that comes with it, on the vertical stand on your outer left. Problem solved without any extra expenses.
@@sinfulpsyche you can disable the Choke feature in the hi-hat settings, I was looking at the input under the Monitor screen and it was showing Choke a lot randomly. Disabled that and good to go now, because I've never manually choked a hi-hat with my hands ever in my life lol.
Great video and a lot of good tips but the tom upgrade is probably not a must-have considering the price of the new toms in relation to the price of the kit and it's primarily for looks (which is always debatable).
Great video! I did about 95% of what you did but I put my kit together using all individual eBay pieces. I love your module mount idea. I’ll definitely do that x2 as I’m going to use a TD10 and a TD27. Thanks again for some great ideas. I’m a new subscriber now!
Great video!! I got my TD27 KV2 about a year ago and am now at a point where I want to do more with it, and your video has given me some awesome ideas. DEFINITELY going to try your idea with mounting the module higher. Thank you! I really love how neat your cables are. Mine are a total mess and I just can’t get it right. Would you consider making a video (or even a short) on your cable maintenance method? I don’t expect you to undo everything and set it up again (unless you want to 😉). But even just zoom in and explain a bit 🙏
Re: the position of the brain: I also have a small extension on the left side of the rack, but instead of placing my headphones there, I place the brain there. It's all the way on the left side, I can rotate closer to me and it's not competing for space with the hi-hat.
I have been trying to find the brackets online to do the upgrade for the location of the module. I am struggling to find them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@TravelForOne I just contacted Roland UK and spoke to their spares department and they told me the part numbers of the bits I required and then I phoned my local Roland dealer and told them the parts numbers and they ordered them from Roland for me.
Great tip on the “brain” mount. I’m just setting my kit up for the first time and thinking that trying to use the frame at all seems like a fool’s errand. The hi-hat really doesn’t fit anywhere. I’m upgrading from an original TD-10 kit, and even with the pad-based hi-hat, the position of the module is really awkward! Wondering if just moving to normal stands would be better…
Yes, I'm happy with it now. Good thing is, you can build up to it in stages. Fact is, I had a TD-15 that I'd done a few upgrades to, but I wanted the PD140DS snare and the VH-14DS digital hi-hats but in the UK those two along come in at around £1,300. I found a UK company doing complete TD-27KV2 for £2,500, which is £1,200 more, but I sold off all my old TD-15 gear and ended up getting £1,500 for it all so I got the TD-27KV2 complete and £300 cash in my pocket, to put towards the upgrades in this video so my method of upgrading ended up good for me.
Move the cymbal directly in front. Put the module between the toms on the top wrung of the cage. If you tip it correctly it will not interfere with the toms. Worked for me.
Yes, I started out with a TD-15, which I upgraded about half of it, and then when I wanted some other bits it worked out cheaper just to buy the TD-27 KV2 and upgrade that a little bit too :-). I’m very happy with the set up now, totally resembles the acoustic kits I have had over the years in terms of layout and size and feel.
Hey Nigel, I did exactly what you suggested with my kit.. I love it!! thanks for doing this video. I still need to add the extra pad for the cowbell or closed HiHat, since I play double bass and there is not closing clamp for the hats
btw, the upgrade talked about concerning the module placement in this video is not needed. I have the same kit and solved it like this: lower the left horizontal bar about 6cm, which will make the outer left stand raise 6cm above the horizontal bar. Then you can mount the module with the clamp that comes with it, on the vertical stand on your outer left. Problem solved without any extra expenses.
Sure, it is 402, which is BrightMedThinSpE and 401 for the other part of the dual sensor. This just works well with the particular kit and set of cymbals that I have set up.
Interesting that you also found the standard rack restrictive. I bought a 4th tom pad and just couldn't get comfortable so I bought a whole second MDS rack then spread it all out a bit more. I quite like the larger floor tom pads but not the price, so I'll stick with the PDX-100s. The smaller diameters force me to be more accurate. I bought another Roland cymbal too - a larger one with two zones and two cable inputs however I dont use the bell, so I'll likely add yet another cymbal pad - I quite like the FX or china pads from ATV. I have my kit on a hard floor and was constantly annoyed that both the HiHat stand and bass drum & pedal would wander away from me, so I have cut down one rack leg, complete with its foot and use that as a stopper for the HiHat stand. At the moment all I have come up with to stop the bass drum and pedal from moving is a strap between the two front legs. Its actually quite effective but looks pants. Work in progress.
thanks for the great video. Just a question on the splash - do you know the code of the cymbal arm attachment? i want to do the same but am having trouble finding it
Many thanks for this list of upgrades. This will be really helpful when my bank account recovers from that initial outlay! Any advice on pedal positioning for dual beater second pedal please? I find trying to fit it in with the snare and hi-hat stand comes out a choice between ease of use of the hi-hats, or ease of use of the 2nd pedal. Either causes a detrimental ergonomic impact on the other pedal.
You're welcome. Regarding duel-beater double-pedal. When I had one, well, I've had a few, I always positioned the remote pedal between the hi-hat pedal and the snare drum stand, in other words you move your left foot further left to use the hi-hat pedal and then you move your left foot in (to the right) to put on the remote pedal for the double-kick. You might have to turn the snare stand (if you use one, if you rack-mount snare this won't be an issue) to get the feet positioned in such a way that it can fit.
@Tec Raven, thanks great ideas. Do you know where could I find the drum rack parts, in particular that cover plug from cymbal stand on which the drum module would be mounted on? Seems impossible to find this essential part.
I contacted Roland spares department to get a few extra bits and I cut some parts off a spare frame I had. Roland Drum Racks come up used on eBay all the time and they often go for as little as £95, which could be cheaper than buying a few new parts from Roland.
I own a TD27 . 2022 I believe. I love my set and while I would rather own an acoustic set, I have a bad back and my living situation won’t allow it so it’s perfect. My only gripe though, are the hi hats. For me they are like playing mud when it comes to accents. Especially if you’re playing your snare with your left hand lets say and want to go over for a quick accent . I play a lot of Rush for example and the accents are sometimes impossible. The kit came with a single top hi hat that had a barrel type switch for the bottom. I got so frustrated that I bought an older version that uses two cymbals but the bottom has two plastic bands that hold it down and Im not sure exactly how it works right now but it’s only a little better. They were very expensive. I really detest either version. Also when I bought my set I purchased a DW Colorboard series double bass pedal. Really incredible and beautifully designed. However they have a different hoop clamp from the old standard in that they use three disks. Two on the bottom and one on top about the size of a nickel. They were impossible to clamp on to my KD10 bass drum plate. After going back and forth between Roland and DW , and them basically blaming each other, I decided for whatever reason to flip the plate over so that the ridge on the plate is further away and it works great! Just in case anyone else runs into that problem. Thanks for a very informative video
Agreed, nothing quite like an acoustic set, but, as you know there's a place for both in this world and they both get along just fine, just like electric guitars and acoustic guitars - certainly good to own and use both if you have the room. The older Roland hats are ok, but nothing special, even the one with a bottom hat too. For me the latest Roland Digital hats, the VH-14D, is the best thing available at the moment and the closest you'll get to an acoustic set of hats, but at around £650 it's not cheap and it boils my pi#@ that they are basically two plastic frisbees with a couple of sensors in them that can't have cost more than about £15 in parts and manufacturing costs - total rip off, but they are excellent and will get you closer to where you want to be. But, even they have trigger issues. I found I had to turn the 'palm mute' function off or they would sometimes just lock up and not work and you have to reboot the module to get them going again. I had Roland swap them out for a replacement set, but new ones did the same. Might be worth you giving the VH-14Ds a stab though as they are superb, and larger too so more to aim at. As for the pedal issue, yeah, some of the Mapex won't even attach, they keep slipping back off the Roland hoop. The Tama I have is the best, grips perfectly and a much better pedal than 'any' DW in my opinion, and a fraction of the price. See my other video on 'the perfect drum pedal'.
@@tendingtropic7778 Yes, too big. Not a fan of electronic kits that try to look like acoustic kits. The Roland acoustic looking electronic kick drum is rubbish as it has a naff pad from the KD-10 stuck in the centre of it.
Is there a way to use this kit without the module and say, have it going into a midi interface and into a sampler on the computer? I want this kit but know I won’t ever use the sounds in the module ever.
I know what you mean, but I don't think there is any way of doing this as the 'snake' cable goes into the module and you need the module to detect the pads and triggers and sensors etc. Many Roland uses who don't like the built in sounds use something like Addictive Drums or Superior Drummer or EZ Drummer, but even then you have to come out of the TD-27 module to go into a computer via USB to use them. You don't have to use the Roland TD-27, you could buy a cheaper module and send that into the computer via an interface.
Excellent video. I just ordered a td-17kvx2. I have a beater from my acoustic kit. It's felt on one side and plastic on the other. I did order a drum patch too. I was planning on turning it to the plastic side and using that side with the patch installed on the kd-10. Will the felt side be ok on that model too? Thank you. Oh, and I'll probably end up upgrading the floor tom to something bigger. Probably the pdx-12 pad unless you'd recommend something better. I'm just a beginner tho so I don't need anything to fancy.
I use the evans pad on the kd 10 with the felt side. Sounds great. And I got the new pda 100L BK 10 and pda 120L BK 12 for toms and snare (2nd hand in top condition). No hotspots! And better looking. Now I feel "forced" to upgrade to a better looking and roomier rack (chrome). Or ditch it altogether and go with stands.
@@ToondeSmit I ended up using the felt side also. I'm getting used to the mesh heads but at first I didn't like them. They are super bouncy compared to my acoustic kit. Then again I'm a beginner with maybe 20 hours on the acoustic kit. I agree with a bigger rack. This ekit seems very tight and small.
For the money, if I would hVe to go through all of that to get the kit right, and I would probably do what you did, I’m gonna wait a bit until they come down reasonably in price or until they get all the upgrades in the original cost. Are you paying attention Roland? Looks like your competition is.
@@tecraven probably true but this guy is not gonna buy one if I can find equivalent sets out there by the competition that have good reputable names and the kit sounds right, so Rolland is not gonna miss my sale.
Any of the AUX inputs. Then in the settings just choose the model of pad for that input and choose a tom sound that is in the same family as the other three toms and make any tuning adjustments to that tom that you see fit.
Not sure what you mean. If you ad a fourth tom there will typically be a sound allocated to it on all the kits in the TD-27 module, typically a fourth floor tom, but if it is not the one you want you change it, and, yes, you change it in every kit and then save the settings. Most people set up two of three custom kits, usually a modified version of an existing kit that is copied and then modified and saved as a custom kit and then they will use these custom kits as their preferred kits.
Oh god i have the same problem with the module placement and i hate it i never saw annyone adress it an im happy im not the only one hating it, your solution is a good one probably will use it, thanks.
wouldnt it be better to use a mounting point that lets the pipe go through it behind the rack itself so the mounting pipe doesnt have to be cut exactly to lenght and you can adjust it?
I put a pearl emerge kick drum on my kit, it is 100% better. $400 Mounted all my drums and cymbals and drums on cymbal stands and got rid of my drum rack Way better now
Couldn't you just mount tge module on a regular cymbal stand? Then it separate from the entire rack and you can put it anywhere? That's how I mount my yamaha ead10 electric module
There are several videos of me drumming on my channel, but here are a few links for you to some of them: ruclips.net/video/GKikCBL5ldM/видео.htmlsi=yE-AonvsFWpGG9zq ruclips.net/video/OPq7m8nsFZM/видео.htmlsi=uBeJUPDhMrE0yNna ruclips.net/video/Mc4u3nX4OhA/видео.htmlsi=KxO2Pu_mngkT-D9_
Never had a problem. To be honest noise eaters do nothing with regard to cymbals and mesh heads and how loud the sticks come off them. I've heard that a noise eater might help stop some of the vibration traveling through the floor from kick drum and hi-hat stand if you live above somebody, but am on ground floor in a house that has concrete floor so all's good. Noise eater Roland kick pedal and hi-hat stand etc would make little do no difference. Acoustically, these kits all sound like you're hitting a bunch of tupperware containers and plastic frisbees anyway and noise eaters won't help with that at all.
I don't have any issue with my KD-10 currently so maybe I don't know what I'm missing out on but for now that's an ignorance-is-bliss scenario that I'm happily accepting
Yup, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Good policy. One doesn't always have to upgrade unless there is a very valid reason to and in most cases it won't improve you as a drummer.
Hi Jon. Ok, the TD-27KV2 (in the UK) retails at anywhere between £2,699 and £2,799. I actually managed to find a legitimate UK supplier who let me have one for £2,499. The upgrades cost me £245 for a used KD-120 kick drum and it was £780 for the two PD-108 pads. I already had the two PD-128 pads from my old kit as I did the CY-5 splash cymbal and small PD-8 pad. Given I sold the three PDX-100 pads for £110 each, getting me £330 back and another £110 for the KD-10 means the kit, with upgrades, cost me £3,084. A TD-50KV2 would have cost me £6,000 so my method cost about half that. Also, I had a TD-15 kit before, that had some small upgrades and I sold all the parts to that individually, which got me about £1,400, again it had some upgrades. I personally didn’t want the TD-50 module, which cost £2,300, more than the TD-27 module which cost £1,195. Not because it is £1,000 more expensive, but I just didn’t need the features of the TD-50, which is geared more towards live performing on stage due to the inputs and outputs that it has. For home use or even professional studio recordings the TD-50 isn’t required, it’s a ‘live’ module. The TD-27 is great for recording studios as all the tracks come out individually over USB, same for MIDI if the studio uses Superior Drummer, Addictive Drums or their own samples etc. Also, the TD-50 is quite a large heavy module and I wanted something smaller and lighter and the TD-27 will produce exactly the same results in a recording environment, which is what I mainly wanted it for. So I basically have a TD-50KV2, just with a TD-27 module, but the way I did it ended up costing a lot less. Even if you don’t have a kit at all, buying a TD-27KV2 and upgrading it as I have is a cheaper option as it will cost as follows: TD-27KV2 - £2,600 PD-108BC toms x 2 - £780 PD-128BC toms x 2 - £ 940 KD-120 (used) - £240 Total £4,560 rather than £6,000 for TD-50KV2 If you buy some of the parts used, it’s much cheaper. But, I guess if you don’t want the hassle of messing about with buying used parts to make the kit better and you like the idea of the TD-50 module then getting the TD-50KV2 would make sense. It all comes down to if you want/need the TD-50 module or if the TD-27 module will do all you want it to.
@@tecraven Excellent information, and thank you for the prompt reply. Several reviewers have suggested the TD-27 module is the better of the two. I love what you have done and will try to replicate it. Cheers
@@jonathanking7594 The TD-27 is on a par with the TD-50 with the recent firmware update - nothing in it. In fact a mate of mine is thinking of selling his TD-50 module and getting the TD-27 as the TD-50 is overkill for his requirements and with regard to the all-important sound aspect, they are on a par.
I really can't remember now as too long ago. But what I remember is that buy the time I bought the better toms etc and sold off the parts that came with the kit that I did not want it ended up being way cheaper than a TD-50 set up, by a long way, and I didn't want the TD-50 module anyway as I much prefer the TD-27. I guess you could work it out by looking up the prices of the toms and other bits that I bought, either shop around for best new prices and also check out used on eBay. Then check eBay to see what the parts you wan't want go for and do the math. This is kind of what I did before purchasing the TD-27 as I did consider buying the TD-50 kit and selling the module and buying TD27, but my method worked better for me personally.
Can anyone give me professional advice on what i neet to do or buy to make my Roland TD 27 KV 2 ( at home ! ) sound professional and rich. I already had the PM 200 andPM 100 monitors recommendet by Roland , I currently have a Yamaha BRD 12 ( active speakers) and my drums still sound very " dry" - like I'm playing on cardboard boxes. Waht should I do with that? With Kind regards.
Jose, the Roland PM200 and PM100 are absolute garbage when it comes to sonic performance, really, the hi-fi/audio quality of these wedge drum monitors are absolute pants. The PM100/200 were designed for small rehearsal room practice with other band members where the sold job of these little drum monitors is to put out volume and a bit of punch, enough so the other band members can hear so they are all about volume, not quality, which is why I would never use them. I had a PM100, for about a week and got rid of it due to crap sound quality. I had a used Yamaha MS50DR system that was a sub on the floor and two satellite speakers that mount onto the Roland drum frame and it sounded better than the Roland, but only just. The best sound you will ever get will be with Roland RH-300 closed-back headphones, trust me on this, I’ve tried most headphones and these are by far the best. As a comparison I have Beyer DT770 Pro and expensive Neumann NDH30 (not closed, but open back) and both these, and Sennheiser and others, sound too bright and brittle at the top, the Roland cans make the drums sound produced, like a decent CD recording and you can use them for hours without getting ear fatigue because of the smooth top end. As for monitors, the best thing to do would be to use some decent recording studio near field monitors and a sub but, depending on how you come out of the TD-27 module you might need a laptop and audio interface. But definitely grab some Roland. HH-300 headphones off Amazon and give them a try, you can return within 28 days (UK at least) if you don’t like them for a refund so nothing to lose. If you are using any headphones at the moment I am confident that you will prefer the Roland will sound nicer and won’t hurt your ears so much due to the nicely rounded off top end and the bottom kicks.
Nice kit, and helpful, BUT....LOL... I was hoping you were going to go into software and sounds. If any of the new patches are worth zipping over... Otherwise, thanks for the video, it's good to see a really nice set of drums ! :-)
Nah, there's loads of vids here on RUclips with people going into all the sounds. I figured I'd leave that well alone as it has been done to death, I just wanted to concentrate on the hardware ;)
Would have cost way more and I don't like or need the TD-50 module. Wanted TD-27 module. This way, I have a TD-50KV2, but with a TD27 module and a few other bits for less month.
So you bought an expensive kit and bought another kit to replace it. This is not a negative comment to you rather to Roland (and all other manufacturers) that they won't allow us to buy what we want, then they kill us on individual parts 😠
😊 looks great but fiscally not ideal decisions\bang for your buck. For example, modifications to my stand I did myself + did not pay premium price for Roland parts and or headphones, etc And by the way, I'm just a RUclips/internet Craftsman with logic /understanding. I opted for the atx 150 headphone them, imo Way better. Performance/ price ratio I didn't care about the whole Roland theme. I also had the computer mounted to the stand as well as a apparatus for my phone to snap into and the only external stand I have is for the snare, all with the compact stand that came with the kdx17 [two crashes, one splash, 1 20-in Ride, 12-in? Or maybe it's 10-in China, two 14 crashes with no boom stands or symbol stands]
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
My td27kv2 is coming tomorrow and im excited. I really appreciate the info, especially with the module placement. I didnt know that was an issue and now I already have a good solution for it. Thank you!
How's it going? I'm interested in this kit too
How do you like it
@vincentvalentine9417 love it. Only issue is woth the hi hat. Sometime it registers a closed hit when it is open. Can be frustrating
@@sinfulpsyche btw, the upgrade talked about concerning the module placement in this video is not needed. I have the same kit and solved it like this: lower the left horizontal bar about 6cm, which will make the outer left stand raise 6cm above the horizontal bar. Then you can mount the module with the clamp that comes with it, on the vertical stand on your outer left. Problem solved without any extra expenses.
@@sinfulpsyche you can disable the Choke feature in the hi-hat settings, I was looking at the input under the Monitor screen and it was showing Choke a lot randomly. Disabled that and good to go now, because I've never manually choked a hi-hat with my hands ever in my life lol.
Great video and a lot of good tips but the tom upgrade is probably not a must-have considering the price of the new toms in relation to the price of the kit and it's primarily for looks (which is always debatable).
Agreed regarding the rack toms, I did it purely for looks.
I want the toms and I don’t even have a Roland 😭😭😭 like they are beautiful!
Great video! I did about 95% of what you did but I put my kit together using all individual eBay pieces. I love your module mount idea. I’ll definitely do that x2 as I’m going to use a TD10 and a TD27. Thanks again for some great ideas. I’m a new subscriber now!
Thanks!
good stuff & love the upgrades. def will follow your lead when I eventually upgrade (my current TD-25 KV) to the TD-27KV2. THX!
Great video!! I got my TD27 KV2 about a year ago and am now at a point where I want to do more with it, and your video has given me some awesome ideas. DEFINITELY going to try your idea with mounting the module higher. Thank you!
I really love how neat your cables are. Mine are a total mess and I just can’t get it right. Would you consider making a video (or even a short) on your cable maintenance method? I don’t expect you to undo everything and set it up again (unless you want to 😉). But even just zoom in and explain a bit 🙏
To be honest I just ran the cables as per instructions, but I did buy an extra 3 clips from a UK music shop to make things a little neater.
Re: the position of the brain: I also have a small extension on the left side of the rack, but instead of placing my headphones there, I place the brain there. It's all the way on the left side, I can rotate closer to me and it's not competing for space with the hi-hat.
I love the mount you made for the module. Will be making my own now
I just couldn’t live with it the way it came :-)
I have been trying to find the brackets online to do the upgrade for the location of the module. I am struggling to find them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@TravelForOne I just contacted Roland UK and spoke to their spares department and they told me the part numbers of the bits I required and then I phoned my local Roland dealer and told them the parts numbers and they ordered them from Roland for me.
Great tip on the “brain” mount. I’m just setting my kit up for the first time and thinking that trying to use the frame at all seems like a fool’s errand. The hi-hat really doesn’t fit anywhere. I’m upgrading from an original TD-10 kit, and even with the pad-based hi-hat, the position of the module is really awkward! Wondering if just moving to normal stands would be better…
I just got mine, and I'm loving it. Thanks for the great tips on the drums.
That is a fantastic setup brother!
Actually exactly what I’m aiming for as well.
Just perfect!
Yes, I'm happy with it now. Good thing is, you can build up to it in stages. Fact is, I had a TD-15 that I'd done a few upgrades to, but I wanted the PD140DS snare and the VH-14DS digital hi-hats but in the UK those two along come in at around £1,300. I found a UK company doing complete TD-27KV2 for £2,500, which is £1,200 more, but I sold off all my old TD-15 gear and ended up getting £1,500 for it all so I got the TD-27KV2 complete and £300 cash in my pocket, to put towards the upgrades in this video so my method of upgrading ended up good for me.
Move the cymbal directly in front. Put the module between the toms on the top wrung of the cage. If you tip it correctly it will not interfere with the toms. Worked for me.
not sure if you're trolling or serious or I'm misunderstanding but module between the toms is crazy
Great taste, my dude. That kit is just phenomenal.
Thanks, Ricardo. I certainly enjoy playing it now.
Thanks for the info. I had the kd-10 with the td-17 but the side to side wobble was putting me off. Just bought a second hand kd-120
Superb vid, thnx so much.. I was just about to buy the stand alone floor Tom but now I’m more inclined to copy your set up and get two of the 12”…
Yes, I started out with a TD-15, which I upgraded about half of it, and then when I wanted some other bits it worked out cheaper just to buy the TD-27 KV2 and upgrade that a little bit too :-). I’m very happy with the set up now, totally resembles the acoustic kits I have had over the years in terms of layout and size and feel.
Great video as always Nigel!
Hey Nigel, I did exactly what you suggested with my kit.. I love it!! thanks for doing this video. I still need to add the extra pad for the cowbell or closed HiHat, since I play double bass and there is not closing clamp for the hats
That’s brilliant!
btw, the upgrade talked about concerning the module placement in this video is not needed. I have the same kit and solved it like this: lower the left horizontal bar about 6cm, which will make the outer left stand raise 6cm above the horizontal bar. Then you can mount the module with the clamp that comes with it, on the vertical stand on your outer left. Problem solved without any extra expenses.
That's a very good tip!
@bumperfunk thank you and do you have a pic of where you lowered the left horizontal bar?
Great video! Can you tell me what your settings are for the CY-5 splash in the Roland TD-27 module? TIA
Sure, it is 402, which is BrightMedThinSpE and 401 for the other part of the dual sensor. This just works well with the particular kit and set of cymbals that I have set up.
Interesting that you also found the standard rack restrictive. I bought a 4th tom pad and just couldn't get comfortable so I bought a whole second MDS rack then spread it all out a bit more.
I quite like the larger floor tom pads but not the price, so I'll stick with the PDX-100s. The smaller diameters force me to be more accurate.
I bought another Roland cymbal too - a larger one with two zones and two cable inputs however I dont use the bell, so I'll likely add yet another cymbal pad - I quite like the FX or china pads from ATV.
I have my kit on a hard floor and was constantly annoyed that both the HiHat stand and bass drum & pedal would wander away from me, so I have cut down one rack leg, complete with its foot and use that as a stopper for the HiHat stand. At the moment all I have come up with to stop the bass drum and pedal from moving is a strap between the two front legs. Its actually quite effective but looks pants. Work in progress.
thanks for the great video. Just a question on the splash - do you know the code of the cymbal arm attachment? i want to do the same but am having trouble finding it
It's just a used one I bought on eBay and I cut it down with an angle-grinder to make it shorter. Bit of a custom job.
Could you help to find the correct brackers for the brains?
Did you find them? I am trying to as well and cannot
Find them.
Grest changes im gonna take these ideas for my roland kit
Many thanks for this list of upgrades. This will be really helpful when my bank account recovers from that initial outlay! Any advice on pedal positioning for dual beater second pedal please? I find trying to fit it in with the snare and hi-hat stand comes out a choice between ease of use of the hi-hats, or ease of use of the 2nd pedal. Either causes a detrimental ergonomic impact on the other pedal.
You're welcome. Regarding duel-beater double-pedal. When I had one, well, I've had a few, I always positioned the remote pedal between the hi-hat pedal and the snare drum stand, in other words you move your left foot further left to use the hi-hat pedal and then you move your left foot in (to the right) to put on the remote pedal for the double-kick. You might have to turn the snare stand (if you use one, if you rack-mount snare this won't be an issue) to get the feet positioned in such a way that it can fit.
Thats the Roland they have at my church also but it has the 1st and 2nd Tom is a pdx 100 and the 3rd Tom is a 10 inch pad pd108
Excellent video sir. Thank you
Thank you, Robert, much appreciated.
Beautiful setup.
Thanks!
@Tec Raven, thanks great ideas. Do you know where could I find the drum rack parts, in particular that cover plug from cymbal stand on which the drum module would be mounted on? Seems impossible to find this essential part.
I contacted Roland spares department to get a few extra bits and I cut some parts off a spare frame I had. Roland Drum Racks come up used on eBay all the time and they often go for as little as £95, which could be cheaper than buying a few new parts from Roland.
Thnx for the inspiration! What light you have on the stand?
This one: amzn.to/48vRKi3
I own a TD27 . 2022 I believe. I love my set and while I would rather own an acoustic set, I have a bad back and my living situation won’t allow it so it’s perfect. My only gripe though, are the hi hats. For me they are like playing mud when it comes to accents. Especially if you’re playing your snare with your left hand lets say and want to go over for a quick accent . I play a lot of Rush for example and the accents are sometimes impossible. The kit came with a single top hi hat that had a barrel type switch for the bottom. I got so frustrated that I bought an older version that uses two cymbals but the bottom has two plastic bands that hold it down and Im not sure exactly how it works right now but it’s only a little better. They were very expensive. I really detest either version. Also when I bought my set I purchased a DW Colorboard series double bass pedal. Really incredible and beautifully designed. However they have a different hoop clamp from the old standard in that they use three disks. Two on the bottom and one on top about the size of a nickel. They were impossible to clamp on to my KD10 bass drum plate. After going back and forth between Roland and DW , and them basically blaming each other, I decided for whatever reason to flip the plate over so that the ridge on the plate is further away and it works great! Just in case anyone else runs into that problem. Thanks for a very informative video
Agreed, nothing quite like an acoustic set, but, as you know there's a place for both in this world and they both get along just fine, just like electric guitars and acoustic guitars - certainly good to own and use both if you have the room. The older Roland hats are ok, but nothing special, even the one with a bottom hat too. For me the latest Roland Digital hats, the VH-14D, is the best thing available at the moment and the closest you'll get to an acoustic set of hats, but at around £650 it's not cheap and it boils my pi#@ that they are basically two plastic frisbees with a couple of sensors in them that can't have cost more than about £15 in parts and manufacturing costs - total rip off, but they are excellent and will get you closer to where you want to be. But, even they have trigger issues. I found I had to turn the 'palm mute' function off or they would sometimes just lock up and not work and you have to reboot the module to get them going again. I had Roland swap them out for a replacement set, but new ones did the same. Might be worth you giving the VH-14Ds a stab though as they are superb, and larger too so more to aim at.
As for the pedal issue, yeah, some of the Mapex won't even attach, they keep slipping back off the Roland hoop. The Tama I have is the best, grips perfectly and a much better pedal than 'any' DW in my opinion, and a fraction of the price. See my other video on 'the perfect drum pedal'.
thanks for this. for all that, you might aswell have gone for the VAD504 *(or 507)
I don’t like the VAD shells.
@@tecraveninteresting, why not? too big?
@@tendingtropic7778 Yes, too big. Not a fan of electronic kits that try to look like acoustic kits. The Roland acoustic looking electronic kick drum is rubbish as it has a naff pad from the KD-10 stuck in the centre of it.
Is there a way to use this kit without the module and say, have it going into a midi interface and into a sampler on the computer? I want this kit but know I won’t ever use the sounds in the module ever.
I know what you mean, but I don't think there is any way of doing this as the 'snake' cable goes into the module and you need the module to detect the pads and triggers and sensors etc. Many Roland uses who don't like the built in sounds use something like Addictive Drums or Superior Drummer or EZ Drummer, but even then you have to come out of the TD-27 module to go into a computer via USB to use them. You don't have to use the Roland TD-27, you could buy a cheaper module and send that into the computer via an interface.
Excellent video. I just ordered a td-17kvx2. I have a beater from my acoustic kit. It's felt on one side and plastic on the other. I did order a drum patch too. I was planning on turning it to the plastic side and using that side with the patch installed on the kd-10. Will the felt side be ok on that model too? Thank you. Oh, and I'll probably end up upgrading the floor tom to something bigger. Probably the pdx-12 pad unless you'd recommend something better. I'm just a beginner tho so I don't need anything to fancy.
I use the evans pad on the kd 10 with the felt side. Sounds great. And I got the new pda 100L BK 10 and pda 120L BK 12 for toms and snare (2nd hand in top condition). No hotspots! And better looking. Now I feel "forced" to upgrade to a better looking and roomier rack (chrome). Or ditch it altogether and go with stands.
@@ToondeSmit I ended up using the felt side also. I'm getting used to the mesh heads but at first I didn't like them. They are super bouncy compared to my acoustic kit. Then again I'm a beginner with maybe 20 hours on the acoustic kit. I agree with a bigger rack. This ekit seems very tight and small.
Yes the felt side all day, plastic side feels too hard and fake, no feedback. Always use the felt side with the black rubber Evans pad.
For the money, if I would hVe to go through all of that to get the kit right, and I would probably do what you did, I’m gonna wait a bit until they come down reasonably in price or until they get all the upgrades in the original cost. Are you paying attention Roland? Looks like your competition is.
Roland prices will never come down, they are like Apple and Sony, their prices just keep going up and up and up and up year on year…
@@tecraven probably true but this guy is not gonna buy one if I can find equivalent sets out there by the competition that have good reputable names and the kit sounds right, so Rolland is not gonna miss my sale.
Whats the procedure to ad a 4th tom? And what do you connect it too on the back of the module?
Any of the AUX inputs. Then in the settings just choose the model of pad for that input and choose a tom sound that is in the same family as the other three toms and make any tuning adjustments to that tom that you see fit.
@@tecraven thank you
Sweet kit
If I just want to upgrade the floor tom to that pad do I only input settings once or for all kits installed in the menus?
Not sure what you mean. If you ad a fourth tom there will typically be a sound allocated to it on all the kits in the TD-27 module, typically a fourth floor tom, but if it is not the one you want you change it, and, yes, you change it in every kit and then save the settings. Most people set up two of three custom kits, usually a modified version of an existing kit that is copied and then modified and saved as a custom kit and then they will use these custom kits as their preferred kits.
Looks great! How did you get the triggers needed for all the extra pads?
I just assigned sounds from the TD-27 to the extra pads - nice and easy.
There aren’t that many inputs?
@@trishmanning4447 yes there are. Snare, Ride and Hi-hats are all USB so plenty of jacks left for everything else you see.
@@tecraven The hi-hats are usb?
Yes.
What hi-hat stand do you use?
It's a Mapex.
hello what speaker or amp you use for this KIT?
I was using a Yamaha MS50DR 3-way monitor system, but I prefer to use Roland RH300 headphones.
Oh god i have the same problem with the module placement and i hate it i never saw annyone adress it an im happy im not the only one hating it, your solution is a good one probably will use it, thanks.
wouldnt it be better to use a mounting point that lets the pipe go through it behind the rack itself so the mounting pipe doesnt have to be cut exactly to lenght and you can adjust it?
Yes. It is the only option, and the best one by far.
I put a pearl emerge kick drum on my kit, it is 100% better. $400
Mounted all my drums and cymbals and drums on cymbal stands and got rid of my drum rack
Way better now
Wow, sounds cool. You have a link to a photo of it?
@@tecraven ok
I sent pics
Couldn't you just mount tge module on a regular cymbal stand? Then it separate from the entire rack and you can put it anywhere? That's how I mount my yamaha ead10 electric module
Definitely, but I didn't want an extra three legs taking up floor space, this is more convenient for me personally.
Where can we hear your drumming ?
There are several videos of me drumming on my channel, but here are a few links for you to some of them: ruclips.net/video/GKikCBL5ldM/видео.htmlsi=yE-AonvsFWpGG9zq ruclips.net/video/OPq7m8nsFZM/видео.htmlsi=uBeJUPDhMrE0yNna ruclips.net/video/Mc4u3nX4OhA/видео.htmlsi=KxO2Pu_mngkT-D9_
@@tecraven ill check it out - ta
How are you handling the noise the pads and kick produce while playing? I don’t see noise eaters or a riser.
Never had a problem. To be honest noise eaters do nothing with regard to cymbals and mesh heads and how loud the sticks come off them. I've heard that a noise eater might help stop some of the vibration traveling through the floor from kick drum and hi-hat stand if you live above somebody, but am on ground floor in a house that has concrete floor so all's good. Noise eater Roland kick pedal and hi-hat stand etc would make little do no difference. Acoustically, these kits all sound like you're hitting a bunch of tupperware containers and plastic frisbees anyway and noise eaters won't help with that at all.
@@tecraven The sound the stick makes on my main crash (CY-12C-T) is loud and sounds like I'm hitting hard plastic. I would love to able to mute it.
I don't have any issue with my KD-10 currently so maybe I don't know what I'm missing out on but for now that's an ignorance-is-bliss scenario that I'm happily accepting
Yup, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Good policy. One doesn't always have to upgrade unless there is a very valid reason to and in most cases it won't improve you as a drummer.
Hi Nigel, would you have been better of just buying the 50kv2? Cheers
Hi Jon. Ok, the TD-27KV2 (in the UK) retails at anywhere between £2,699 and £2,799. I actually managed to find a legitimate UK supplier who let me have one for £2,499. The upgrades cost me £245 for a used KD-120 kick drum and it was £780 for the two PD-108 pads. I already had the two PD-128 pads from my old kit as I did the CY-5 splash cymbal and small PD-8 pad. Given I sold the three PDX-100 pads for £110 each, getting me £330 back and another £110 for the KD-10 means the kit, with upgrades, cost me £3,084. A TD-50KV2 would have cost me £6,000 so my method cost about half that.
Also, I had a TD-15 kit before, that had some small upgrades and I sold all the parts to that individually, which got me about £1,400, again it had some upgrades.
I personally didn’t want the TD-50 module, which cost £2,300, more than the TD-27 module which cost £1,195. Not because it is £1,000 more expensive, but I just didn’t need the features of the TD-50, which is geared more towards live performing on stage due to the inputs and outputs that it has. For home use or even professional studio recordings the TD-50 isn’t required, it’s a ‘live’ module. The TD-27 is great for recording studios as all the tracks come out individually over USB, same for MIDI if the studio uses Superior Drummer, Addictive Drums or their own samples etc. Also, the TD-50 is quite a large heavy module and I wanted something smaller and lighter and the TD-27 will produce exactly the same results in a recording environment, which is what I mainly wanted it for.
So I basically have a TD-50KV2, just with a TD-27 module, but the way I did it ended up costing a lot less.
Even if you don’t have a kit at all, buying a TD-27KV2 and upgrading it as I have is a cheaper option as it will cost as follows:
TD-27KV2 - £2,600
PD-108BC toms x 2 - £780
PD-128BC toms x 2 - £ 940
KD-120 (used) - £240
Total £4,560 rather than £6,000 for TD-50KV2
If you buy some of the parts used, it’s much cheaper.
But, I guess if you don’t want the hassle of messing about with buying used parts to make the kit better and you like the idea of the TD-50 module then getting the TD-50KV2 would make sense. It all comes down to if you want/need the TD-50 module or if the TD-27 module will do all you want it to.
@@tecraven Excellent information, and thank you for the prompt reply. Several reviewers have suggested the TD-27 module is the better of the two. I love what you have done and will try to replicate it. Cheers
@@jonathanking7594 The TD-27 is on a par with the TD-50 with the recent firmware update - nothing in it. In fact a mate of mine is thinking of selling his TD-50 module and getting the TD-27 as the TD-50 is overkill for his requirements and with regard to the all-important sound aspect, they are on a par.
But 50kv2 include 18inch bass drum, bigger crash cymbals and much better rack.
@@meonello11 This is true, but this is why it cost a lot more than a TD-27 upgraded the way I did.
What was the total cost of your configuration?
I really can't remember now as too long ago. But what I remember is that buy the time I bought the better toms etc and sold off the parts that came with the kit that I did not want it ended up being way cheaper than a TD-50 set up, by a long way, and I didn't want the TD-50 module anyway as I much prefer the TD-27. I guess you could work it out by looking up the prices of the toms and other bits that I bought, either shop around for best new prices and also check out used on eBay. Then check eBay to see what the parts you wan't want go for and do the math. This is kind of what I did before purchasing the TD-27 as I did consider buying the TD-50 kit and selling the module and buying TD27, but my method worked better for me personally.
@@tecraven Fair enough!
Can anyone give me professional advice on what i neet to do or buy to make my Roland TD 27 KV 2 ( at home ! ) sound professional and rich.
I already had the PM 200 andPM 100 monitors recommendet by Roland , I currently have a Yamaha BRD 12 ( active speakers) and my drums still sound very " dry" - like I'm playing on cardboard boxes.
Waht should I do with that?
With Kind regards.
Jose, the Roland PM200 and PM100 are absolute garbage when it comes to sonic performance, really, the hi-fi/audio quality of these wedge drum monitors are absolute pants. The PM100/200 were designed for small rehearsal room practice with other band members where the sold job of these little drum monitors is to put out volume and a bit of punch, enough so the other band members can hear so they are all about volume, not quality, which is why I would never use them. I had a PM100, for about a week and got rid of it due to crap sound quality.
I had a used Yamaha MS50DR system that was a sub on the floor and two satellite speakers that mount onto the Roland drum frame and it sounded better than the Roland, but only just.
The best sound you will ever get will be with Roland RH-300 closed-back headphones, trust me on this, I’ve tried most headphones and these are by far the best. As a comparison I have Beyer DT770 Pro and expensive Neumann NDH30 (not closed, but open back) and both these, and Sennheiser and others, sound too bright and brittle at the top, the Roland cans make the drums sound produced, like a decent CD recording and you can use them for hours without getting ear fatigue because of the smooth top end.
As for monitors, the best thing to do would be to use some decent recording studio near field monitors and a sub but, depending on how you come out of the TD-27 module you might need a laptop and audio interface.
But definitely grab some Roland. HH-300 headphones off Amazon and give them a try, you can return within 28 days (UK at least) if you don’t like them for a refund so nothing to lose. If you are using any headphones at the moment I am confident that you will prefer the Roland will sound nicer and won’t hurt your ears so much due to the nicely rounded off top end and the bottom kicks.
Nice kit, and helpful, BUT....LOL... I was hoping you were going to go into software and sounds.
If any of the new patches are worth zipping over...
Otherwise, thanks for the video, it's good to see a really nice set of drums !
:-)
Nah, there's loads of vids here on RUclips with people going into all the sounds. I figured I'd leave that well alone as it has been done to death, I just wanted to concentrate on the hardware ;)
Love hearing the word restarded in a roland vid 😂
Why didn't you get the td50 at this point? 😂
Would have cost way more and I don't like or need the TD-50 module. Wanted TD-27 module. This way, I have a TD-50KV2, but with a TD27 module and a few other bits for less month.
So you bought an expensive kit and bought another kit to replace it. This is not a negative comment to you rather to Roland (and all other manufacturers) that they won't allow us to buy what we want, then they kill us on individual parts 😠
Hmm with current market prices it wouldn't be worth all his effort to polish up the 27kv. May as well just pick up a second hand 50
Hmm, that CY-5 looks exactly like the one I sold you ;-)
Haha. That it is ;)
Roland should sell the kit out of the box like that
That they should. Took me a week of messing about and buying other bits to get it how I wanted.
😊 looks great but fiscally not ideal decisions\bang for your buck. For example, modifications to my stand I did myself + did not pay premium price for Roland parts and or headphones, etc And by the way, I'm just a RUclips/internet Craftsman with logic /understanding. I opted for the atx 150 headphone them, imo Way better. Performance/ price ratio I didn't care about the whole Roland theme. I also had the computer mounted to the stand as well as a apparatus for my phone to snap into and the only external stand I have is for the snare, all with the compact stand that came with the kdx17 [two crashes, one splash, 1 20-in Ride, 12-in? Or maybe it's 10-in China, two 14 crashes with no boom stands or symbol stands]
More playing less tinkering
;) - But it only took me a week to figure out what was required to get the kit how I wanted it to be. It shall never be tinkered with again.
someone has too much money, lol
As someone who is half way upgrading a td17 into a td27 i wouldnt exactly call a td27kv a "good" kit to be honest.
No the kit is awesome as it is
Whatever