wow!! just bought this 626 for $200.00 the guy said that it wont start. i got it started. After watching this video; I now know why it runs like it does. Thanks man, I can this vid was awesome. gonna go to parts store gets some hoses!!
Man you are awesome, this video help me get this probe running. Not sure what this kid did but I did the lines following your video and it just started right up! Smooth too. I traded him just a set of rims! Only 111k miles in this 95 gt probe. Thank you!
Dude thank you so much. I have some weird stutters on my engine at low RPM and after checking this video I think I might recall some vacuum lines that were either not plugged in or routed to the wrong places. I will be checking all of the lines now.
@@F1rst2Swing Yeah, I actually did. The solenoid that controls the fuel pressure regulator line was tapped off the airbox output. In my car this nipple was broken off (and so was the rubber intake hose that connects the airbox with the butterfly valve.), so the previous owner just made a DIY intake hose out of a 90 degree PVC pipe and connected the mentioned solenoid input to that, sealing it with cheap silicon (this created a small vaccuum leak too). I bought an "aftermarket" intake hose and this almost instantly solved the issue. The vaccuum leak that caused this hack was just enough to stall the engine on idle when it was warm, and I guess that the air pressure difference between the intake and where the correct nipple is, also did not make things better.
@gontzi7 thanks for the reply. I'm the new owner of a 95 probe gt and it has hesitation problems at startup. After warm it seems fine (no tachometer). One thing I read going through maintenence receipts was that the car had hesitation problems in the past. The invoice read that a wire grounded to the manual transmission was cut. They spliced it back together and problem solved. Now I have to hunt down this new hesitation problem. Luckily there are printed out vacuum diagrams, wiring diagrams, sensor diagrams all straight from Ford I found in the glove box. Looks like spider webs lol. Going to be a fun process..... love your car by the way. I haven't seen a mx3 in decades.
THANKYOU. This helped to confirm my thoughts on my KL swap (out with the K8 in the MX3...) A question: I have headers with a blocked off EGR pipe, they were running OK on my K8 like that with the EGR unit basically open to atmosphere. Should I block the EGR inlet from the exhaust? (I don't have to worry about smog testing in Australia)
I'm running headers on a klde and the heat under the hood makes all the vacuum lines brittle along with the nipples on the solenoids is it possible to relocate those solenoids to a heat shielded box and just run the pigtails longer?
In the 93-96 models (there may be a cutoff somewhere in 96) the front and rear valve cover connect to the air intake elbow via a T connector. This allows metered air after the VAF to flow thru the crankcase, then in the PCV valve. In 97+ models, they removed the front breather hose, so there was just a connection from the air intake elbow, to the rear valve cover. From there, metered air circulated from the rear head, thru the crankcase, to the front head and out the PCV valve, into the intake manifold.
Hello I’m seeking help I currently have a P1195 code on my 1996 ford probe GT 2.5 liter V6 I cannot smog my car and I’m having difficulty finding the issue my mechanic tested equipment he thinks I have a open solenoid letting vacuum through it’s the one closest to Boost sensor but still not 100% sure any recommendations?? We clear code car runs perfectly then after 10 minutes of running trips check engine light on car runs perfectly and no other codes. He tested boost sensor works properly
You can test a solenoid by running the wire directly to the + /- terminal on the battery. It should click and engage. You can also swap the boost sensor solenoid with one of the VRIS ones if you can confirm the VRIS solenoid is opening and closing properly. If the solenoid works, double check you're getting proper vacuum, while it is running, disconnect the hose from the boost sensor solenoid and see if you feel vacuum on the line when you put your finger on it. It also could be a bad boost sensor .
Technically yes, but doing do will trigger a check engine light. VRIS is not required, but it does improve drivability and performance. EGR is not required. FPR solenoid is not required, but helps with hot starts. But all systems will trigger a CEL without being connected and functional.
Have been looking for this video. Thanks for such a great tutorials
Thank you for the video as someone just starting to work on a Probe would love to see more videos on this engine there is not a lot out there
Thanks for your vid..enlightening , even with knowing about my '94 mx6 v6, theres always something to learn...
You are doing the Lord's work man...
wow!! just bought this 626 for $200.00 the guy said that it wont start. i got it started. After watching this video; I now know why it runs like it does. Thanks man, I can this vid was awesome. gonna go to parts store gets some hoses!!
been lookin for a vid like this for a couple months perfect man
Man you are awesome, this video help me get this probe running. Not sure what this kid did but I did the lines following your video and it just started right up! Smooth too. I traded him just a set of rims! Only 111k miles in this 95 gt probe. Thank you!
I am very glad you made this video. The part diagrams are very hard to see. This video is a lot better to use.
Dude thank you so much. I have some weird stutters on my engine at low RPM and after checking this video I think I might recall some vacuum lines that were either not plugged in or routed to the wrong places. I will be checking all of the lines now.
Did you figure out the problem?
@@F1rst2Swing Yeah, I actually did. The solenoid that controls the fuel pressure regulator line was tapped off the airbox output. In my car this nipple was broken off (and so was the rubber intake hose that connects the airbox with the butterfly valve.), so the previous owner just made a DIY intake hose out of a 90 degree PVC pipe and connected the mentioned solenoid input to that, sealing it with cheap silicon (this created a small vaccuum leak too).
I bought an "aftermarket" intake hose and this almost instantly solved the issue. The vaccuum leak that caused this hack was just enough to stall the engine on idle when it was warm, and I guess that the air pressure difference between the intake and where the correct nipple is, also did not make things better.
@gontzi7 thanks for the reply. I'm the new owner of a 95 probe gt and it has hesitation problems at startup. After warm it seems fine (no tachometer). One thing I read going through maintenence receipts was that the car had hesitation problems in the past. The invoice read that a wire grounded to the manual transmission was cut. They spliced it back together and problem solved. Now I have to hunt down this new hesitation problem. Luckily there are printed out vacuum diagrams, wiring diagrams, sensor diagrams all straight from Ford I found in the glove box. Looks like spider webs lol. Going to be a fun process..... love your car by the way. I haven't seen a mx3 in decades.
@gontzi7 my bad that's not your car in the video lol. But still thank you for the reply.
Thank you soo much for this video!!
I will soon need this video for reference. Thanks man!
It's funny how you have a mx3 in the thumbnail but you don't mention it in the title thanks for the vid by the way
It was more for the 🐈
@@CoworkerKris lol I like it
thanks for the video ....really helpful
Love your video what a life saver. Could you lead me in the right direction of buying the correct sizes for replacing all the vacuum lines?
THANKYOU. This helped to confirm my thoughts on my KL swap (out with the K8 in the MX3...)
A question: I have headers with a blocked off EGR pipe, they were running OK on my K8 like that with the EGR unit basically open to atmosphere. Should I block the EGR inlet from the exhaust? (I don't have to worry about smog testing in Australia)
You want to block the EGR Inlet. If the EGR is open for any reason, it will be like a very large vacuum leak.
@@CoworkerKris thank you
I'm running headers on a klde and the heat under the hood makes all the vacuum lines brittle along with the nipples on the solenoids is it possible to relocate those solenoids to a heat shielded box and just run the pigtails longer?
What's the big hose that connects to the back of the rear valve cover and what does it connect to???
In the 93-96 models (there may be a cutoff somewhere in 96) the front and rear valve cover connect to the air intake elbow via a T connector. This allows metered air after the VAF to flow thru the crankcase, then in the PCV valve. In 97+ models, they removed the front breather hose, so there was just a connection from the air intake elbow, to the rear valve cover. From there, metered air circulated from the rear head, thru the crankcase, to the front head and out the PCV valve, into the intake manifold.
@@CoworkerKris thanks. I have a klze swap so I was just making sure it was put together correctly.
Hello I’m seeking help I currently have a P1195 code on my 1996 ford probe GT 2.5 liter V6 I cannot smog my car and I’m having difficulty finding the issue my mechanic tested equipment he thinks I have a open solenoid letting vacuum through it’s the one closest to Boost sensor but still not 100% sure any recommendations?? We clear code car runs perfectly then after 10 minutes of running trips check engine light on car runs perfectly and no other codes. He tested boost sensor works properly
You can test a solenoid by running the wire directly to the + /- terminal on the battery. It should click and engage. You can also swap the boost sensor solenoid with one of the VRIS ones if you can confirm the VRIS solenoid is opening and closing properly.
If the solenoid works, double check you're getting proper vacuum, while it is running, disconnect the hose from the boost sensor solenoid and see if you feel vacuum on the line when you put your finger on it.
It also could be a bad boost sensor .
Can you delete it all
See below in your previous question
Hey my dude can any of this stuff be deleted
Technically yes, but doing do will trigger a check engine light. VRIS is not required, but it does improve drivability and performance. EGR is not required. FPR solenoid is not required, but helps with hot starts. But all systems will trigger a CEL without being connected and functional.