Is it possible for you to show us your "tricks" for proto boarding and ergonomic disposition of the components ? I see you like to keep things clean and organised, what are the important things you follow to do that ? Thank you !
3H3 . Yeh there are lots of little tips i could share which i did in my breadboarding technique video, which you commented on earlier i have other tips to share along the way which i think would be useful to many. It helps to keep it tidy an organised as it makes trouble shooting so much easier.
For ceramic cap max value, I found 1uF, I don't know if more is possible, but I use them for OSCs ;) nice vidéos thank you for putting all the infos together I feel like I took the same path as you did two years ago, so thank you again, I'm sure you'd have liked it if someone did those videos when you began !
3H3 For ceramic 100nf ive usualy foud tantalum a bit higher up to 10uf. Thou i have installed up to 10uf electrolytic for my new lfo as a second switchable speed option. It has been a rewarding and fun journey.
adam murphy Yes i did thanks adam . However this converts it to a single sawtooth lfo. I have a new multiwaveshape lfo circuit which is .... ruclips.net/video/KHvtdbfLWyw/видео.html
If its electrolytic + side of polarised cap inverting input pin 6 and - to the output pin 7 . To be fair it works either way around . Hooe this helps :-)
I really like your tutorials. At the moment i'am also on the way of building my own syntheshizer. Maybe a small tip for your circuit drawing - there is a different way (i think it's european) way to draw not connected lines. that makes it more obvious. You just draw a small halfcirlce that looks like the line is jumping the other one. Example picture: automatisierungstechnik.hs-pforzheim.de/fileadmin/kleinehelfer/grafik/freie-schaltzeichen/extension/anleitung_install/Kurzanleitung-Dateien/Bildschirmfoto3.png
WooDWorkeR Hi thankyou for watching the videos. I wish you great success in building your synthesizer. Thankyou also for the tip on drawing the schematics for the non connected lines. I know exactly what you mean , where one passes another you draw a hump line which goes over the top. Sometimes my method can be confusing
sorry but you don't understand electronics. this circuit is bogus. the amp on the left will sit at either of the rails and do nothing. one of its inputs is a constant voltage and the other is a cap connected to a constant output. just crazy!
@@Roderick_Legato The only thing I missed out was a potentiometer / resistor between pins 1 and 6 which you use to vary the frequency . Yes the circuit does work and in prepared to video to prove it !
@@AdamTheAd-vanc3d Okay, let me clarify: the circuit - as shown - will not work. Leaving out the potentiometer is not a small omission. By the way, what you drew on the right edge later in the video (and didn't connect to B's input) is a rheostat (variable resistor), not a potentiometer.
Showing the components is very-very useful! Thank you!
MoolahNasreddin Your welcome :-)
Excellent stuff thanks 😊👍
Leon van Bokhorst Your welcome sir ;-)
Agreed : )
very helpful. thanks a lot.
elfusilado79 Glad to be of help :-)
It's possible to get 1 uF, 4.7 uF and 10 uF monolithic ceramic caps (non-polarised)
Is it possible for you to show us your "tricks" for proto boarding and ergonomic disposition of the components ? I see you like to keep things clean and organised, what are the important things you follow to do that ? Thank you !
3H3 . Yeh there are lots of little tips i could share which i did in my breadboarding technique video, which you commented on earlier i have other tips to share along the way which i think would be useful to many. It helps to keep it tidy an organised as it makes trouble shooting so much easier.
Why are you creating an artificial reference with R2 and R3 instead of using Ground?
Taking pins 2 and 5 (TL072) to ground works as well.
I just built this circuit, it works as described.
For ceramic cap max value, I found 1uF, I don't know if more is possible, but I use them for OSCs ;) nice vidéos thank you for putting all the infos together I feel like I took the same path as you did two years ago, so thank you again, I'm sure you'd have liked it if someone did those videos when you began !
3H3 For ceramic 100nf ive usualy foud tantalum a bit higher up to 10uf. Thou i have installed up to 10uf electrolytic for my new lfo as a second switchable speed option. It has been a rewarding and fun journey.
Adamski A. So this circuit could be used as an lfo or OSC with a Switch between different cap values ? Say .1uF / 1uF / 10uF
3H3 Indeed yes its the basis for my saw core oscillators :-)
Just a heads up... you forgot to mention/draw in the diode between pins 1 & 6.
adam murphy Yes i did thanks adam . However this converts it to a single sawtooth lfo. I have a new multiwaveshape lfo circuit which is .... ruclips.net/video/KHvtdbfLWyw/видео.html
ah nice... I'll check that one out :)
adam murphy Yes please do so, and come back at me with any questions.
I got scared when i thought the 47k was 47M xD
Hahaha yeh apologies if i wasn't clear . 👍👍
@@AdamTheAd-vanc3d oh nono i just misread it xdd
Very useful and helpful walkthrough btw!
@@benceszabo5515 Ahhh ok no worries. Lete know if you need any further assistance . Feel free to leave a question in the comments :-)
I'm discovering your channel. It's great ! Thanks ! About the capacitor, if it's an electrolytic capacitor where is the + where is the - ?
If its electrolytic + side of polarised cap inverting input pin 6 and - to the output pin 7 . To be fair it works either way around . Hooe this helps :-)
I really like your tutorials. At the moment i'am also on the way of building my own syntheshizer.
Maybe a small tip for your circuit drawing - there is a different way (i think it's european) way to draw not connected lines. that makes it more obvious. You just draw a small halfcirlce that looks like the line is jumping the other one.
Example picture: automatisierungstechnik.hs-pforzheim.de/fileadmin/kleinehelfer/grafik/freie-schaltzeichen/extension/anleitung_install/Kurzanleitung-Dateien/Bildschirmfoto3.png
WooDWorkeR Hi thankyou for watching the videos. I wish you great success in building your synthesizer.
Thankyou also for the tip on drawing the schematics for the non connected lines. I know exactly what you mean , where one passes another you draw a hump line which goes over the top. Sometimes my method can be confusing
sorry but you don't understand electronics. this circuit is bogus. the amp on the left will sit at either of the rails and do nothing. one of its inputs is a constant voltage and the other is a cap connected to a constant output. just crazy!
Engineer Of Wonders This particular configuration is not my original design, however it is the same basic circuit i have used for my lfos to this day.
@@AdamTheAd-vanc3d Check your circuit again. Paulo is right - this will not work. Op-amp B has no input
@@Roderick_Legato The only thing I missed out was a potentiometer / resistor between pins 1 and 6 which you use to vary the frequency . Yes the circuit does work and in prepared to video to prove it !
@@AdamTheAd-vanc3d Okay, let me clarify: the circuit - as shown - will not work. Leaving out the potentiometer is not a small omission. By the way, what you drew on the right edge later in the video (and didn't connect to B's input) is a rheostat (variable resistor), not a potentiometer.
I've tried to build that schematics - doesn't work