Interesting story, I took my car in to the dealership and without a code they were unable to find the problem. I watch his video and mentioned it could be the crankshaft position sensor. They told me that without a code they couldn’t fix it. So 10 months down the road still having the issue and getting worse, I watch the RUclips channel and quickly determined the sensor was failing. I haven’t had any issues we’re stalling yet.Thanks for the video, it was very informative
Intermittents suck. You can fix things by touching them, you can break things by touching them, or of course the best one, the vehicle doesn’t act up when you have it. Great video Paul!
My 2011 Hyundai Elantra would stall at a red light with the A/C running at first while it was really hot outside. It did it twice within 3 days without the engine light on. 2 days later it died again then the engine light came on. All 3 times the rmp needle would not move which confirmed that my car had the exact same issue. So I took it to the dealer and they confirmed that it was the crank sensor. They replaced it and haven’t had that issue since. Your video helped me narrow down the reason before going in to have it checked so thank you very much!!
First, great video, secondly, I just recently became a premium member. Whether a person is a hobbyist or a pro, they should give themselves a gift and become a member of your premium channel. Your real world testing using the scope and the electrical schematic work is the without a doubt the best. I think its great that you take your time to teach as you troubleshoot, priceless. A million thanks to you!
Excellent video man! I've had this same issue on my 2012 Elantra 100k miles. First guy charged me 800 to replace wiring harness and re-wire (had to do it as I was stranded far from home on Thanksgiving and car wouldn't start). Kept happening and then dealership charged me another $250 to replace a difference sensor....still happening. Now I see this and realize a $25 part and about 30minutes of work will fix my car. I got ripped off!
Excellent video. My 2020 Elantra started exhibiting these symptoms after 125000 miles. Finally kicked the 335 code. Crankshaft sensor fixed it immediately
Scanner I got rid of my 2012 elantra gls touring last week Mechanics here in Omaha need you to train them ! Sensors will keep you employed forever ! Godbless
I had this problem on my 2014 Hyundai Accent Hatchback SE unfortunately the dealership couldn't find or reproduce the issue, but when I had the car in my possession I had the stalling issue. Instead of turning the car off I decided to drive the car to the dealership with the RPM needle on Zero they managed to find the error code of the Crankshaft position sensor malfunctioning, so I decided to get it replaced. So far my car is running fine after the replacement still awaiting futher testing for any new issues. Update: After a whole week I haven't got any starting or stalling issues since the Crankshaft position sensor was replaced. This video did help me a lot of understanding what was wrong with my car and helped me avoid scams at the dealership.
Thanks for sharing. I think most dealership do not set out to scam, just that intermittent issues are hard to diagnose. They rather spend time on doing regular maintenances and surfaced problem (e.g. engine don't start at all). Just money and time.
I just found video after searching for a while and taking Hyundai to 3 different mechanics, caliber automotive, Christian brothers, Hyundai dealership . Thank you sir
Thank you so much for sharing this. My 2014 Elantra stalled out on me twice this week with no check engine lights on. What you shared is 100% duplicate of what i have been experiencing. I have been afraid to drive it and have racked my brain for days.
Thanks very much for the follow up text at the end indicating that the sensor failed the next day, was replaced by the dealer and problem has not returned. Very informative video!
I really appreciate your honesty in trying to troubleshoot this and prove what the issue was. I bet your customers love you. Keep up the good work. I wish my mechanic did videos on my car and prove the issues instead of wasting my money trying everything under the sun.
Excellent explanations and diagnosis. Mine Elantra showed same symptoms and it was the Crank sensor. Best part of this vid is the 300 mph driving speed.
Glad I checked out your video. My vehicle started having this issue a couple of days ago. Took forever to start up, extremely limited power. To the point where I could floor it and only be hitting about 40. Ordering a part and hopefully, I can get it installed and fix this issue.
I just experienced this issue today on my 2013 Elantra. One addition was that when I did drive it while coded, it was also stuck in 5th gear. Also when I cleared the code, it ran normally again. Just wanted to also say this was a very informative video. Great work, gives me something else to watch out for. Thanks!
I have a had a couple of this and the way I get them to act up is drive them for a couple of miles then let it sit for 20-30min and the sensor acts up no start no rpms on tac, Just had Elantra GT today that would actually die after I warmed up car up for about 15min swapped the sensor and fixed the problem, great vid!
Thanks for the info, it’s really helpful. This can work for a 2015 Veloster turbo as well, I had the same problem, I did the same you did and it works! You helped me saving $180.
I am currently having this issue. I was told it was my alternator shelled out 478 bucks if it. It’s still stalling. I greatly appreciate you uploading this informative video. It’s unnerving when it happens because sometimes it takes for ever to start
Does it crank normally? After the stall? Or do you need to jump start it? If it cranks normally, your alternator is not your problem. An alternator will not cause long crank times
From Brunei with millions of thanks, been searching for answers and I happened to stumble on your video explaining the exact same symptoms on my wife's 2016 kia sportage. I had suspected the CKP earlier on from some internet sources and had it removed and cleaned(which i thought would fix the problem lol, and tried multiple times for it reoccur but it just wouldn't happen when i tested it but funny enough the car stalled multiple times when my wife drove for the past 2 weeks ago). So your video is clear enough for me to decide to just change the CKP. Again, thanks man. Subbed and liked!!
Same problem here with a 2012 Accent, stalls when I stop and sometimes running, code P0335, no check engine light at first, then i got it after 3 times failing, difficult to restart ignition and no tachometer reading, i have to wait a few seconds to restart the car properly and tachometer start reading about 20 seconds after that. Im buying the sensor replacement today. Thank you, I also tried throttle body cleaning first because of the symptoms and the absence of check engine light.
this is the most common car in my countries and this is also acommon fault in hyndai , when ckp is hot it is not working and if u let the car 10 minutes it runs good then stalling , i am happy that you are working in hyndai finally paul ❤ but i wish if i saw the shape of waves to know it ..
I found another reason to stall in idle ,. It was not a mechanical part, it was a failing alternator regulator, some times it fails to maintain 14v and the time it start to fail voltage goes 18v+. ECU shut off the main relay and stop all electrical supplies to protect the car electrical system. I use OBD tool to record voltage graph during 1-2 hour driving and when I got the stalling , i checked the voltage graph. Thats the way I found it. I checked all connections , all fuses .. nothing was wrong . It was only a simple regulator built in behind alternator. Hope this will also help to explorers .
Great video Paul. I had a similar issue with a Saab 2001 CKP, it was great intermittent starts and died at idle. I removed the CKP sensor and heated up with a hair dryer, sure enough the resistance and changed drastically. Funny though, the San B never registered a CKP sensor fault, I regard the Saab engine management system as very sophisticated, but "no code" huge surprise. Anyway changed the CKP sensor and everything fine now. As always keep up the great videos Paul.
Thankyou.. thankx for the video.. im having exactly the same problem and i promise you. My vehicle its a 2016 hyundai accent. I just connected my scan tool and its the PO335. THANKX AGAIN AND GOD BLESS!!
Had the exact same issue on my 2012 elantra today. Noticed if you run it driving or idling for 15 minutes, the tachometer stops working and it does not rev up and goes into limp mode when driving. Changed the crank position sensor and it rectified it.
Nice work Paul.. Damn good diag work.. man this type of stuff happens to me all the time .. trying to recreate the fault of the component that you know is having issues but for some reason when it gets to your hands ..it acts all brand new..lol .. Have me scratching your head sometimes man.. Thank you for sharing brother... God Bless
I am having same issue with 2010 Accent. Very good info. After about 10 mins. of driving If i do not keep it rev'd when i slow down it will die. Typically it kind of hiccups and throw a check engine light, loss of tack/shift indicator. Restarts sometimes but not always. Wait 5-10 mins. it restarts. Shop said fuel pump,no load at idle. Additionally along with tach loss i have a manual trans, I lose shift notification.
Another problem to look out for, on the Elantra, is that the car will turn off while being driven due to low oil . Meaning that there will be no indicator light coming on at the dash, yet the oil pressure sensor will have the computer turn off the engine to prevent damage.
Greetings,My 2012 Hyundai Elantra is doing the same thing. My plan first cleaning the throttle body. But since I say your video,this will help me greatly. So When the car is idling putting on the AC the car while stall awhile afterwards. Then it will give me a long crank to start then the tachometer doesn't move giving me slow acceleration. The engine light will come on. So I have to turn the AC off and then back on. The car will drive but negative reading on the tachometer. I will change the crankshaft position sensor this weekend. It was a very informative video. Thank You
The 2 wire pickup coils on motorcycles I've seen fail hot many times, but never during warm up. Just goes to show that anything is possible when it comes to electrical failures! We used to test those with a multimeter on AC volts - would see a few tenths of a volt kicking it over - more if it was electric start. That usually meant it was good. 99% of the time they'd be completely dead when they failed, or you'd see the pinched wires someone caught in the side cover - made diags pretty easy. A scope sure makes this whole process 100x more accurate though! Would've sped the process up, for sure. Pretty sad that this component didn't even reach 50k miles. Going to be ALOT of work in the future for techs, I predict! :) I chuckled at the fast-forward drive there - sounded like a 2-stroke engine in that car revving to 12k RPM, hahaha! Wish we could drive around that fast on public roads. I'd get alot more done in a day! 😁 Great vid as always brother.👍
great video! having the same issue with my own car wish i could of done it myself but still feeling better having the work done regardless now even if it cost me more. the update at the end of the video was great
No matter the outcome of the video, you still relayed a great lesson. You were on the right track, the sensor just didn't want to act up badly when you were looking. Kind of like me when I was a kid. I never acted up with my dad watching. :)
Great video! I just bought a 2016 Hyandai Elantra three weeks ago and the engine shakes when I idle at a stop light like it wants to stall. First start up every morning is rough. The engine will chug then stall. It takes three times starting it to get it running. I took it back to the dealership I have a 3 month power train warranty but if course they said they're not getting a code so they just recommended a fuel system cleaning 🙄.
Had similiar problems with a little Fiat called Seicento (sold only in Europe). It was stalling at idle and it was getting worse quickly, to the point I couldn't restart it before it had cooled down. Had to push it off the road several times. Also after you shut down the engine when it was hot, it was really tough to start again. When cold there was absolutely no problems, it was working like a charm. But the second it got hot it all started again. New crank sensor fixed it. But I had not check engine, and no DTCs in the computer, what mislead me a bit (this car didn't have a cam sensor, so maybe it coudn't get a reference to anything, thus it wasn't setting any codes)
My car has been doing this. Starts and stalls sitting in the driveway. Then just cranks and won’t start again. I’ve had it towed twice. Gets to the shop and they say it’s fine. Today for the first time it actually started again with No RPM got it home, Restarted it and it’s running fine. Thanks for your video. It’s happened 3 times on a year and seems to resolve itself somehow eventually. Now I can clean that connector up and if it happens again tell them to check it.
I have a 2012 GLS. It has always started hard. With that said, it will seize on hot days. Having to put it in park to restart, always at a stop where it can't idle past 1k RPM. Now the tach doesn't read and is running from the cam. So, yes, holy shit was this informative. If I plan the start just right, I do have a tach. From turning the key to the engine turning over...there is generally a delay.
Love the 'fast' tour of the area Paul. Don't apologize....sometimes all one can do is change the part out,: and we always come away from your videos with something learned! May I suggest something? Have a can of CRC component freeze handy for jobs like this one. It may help! 😄
I found an Instructables on how to make one of these sensors using a coil from a relay and a magnet.(MAGNETIC SPEED SENSOR) I didn't have a reluctor ring or gear to create a regular signal but waving lineman's pliers in front worked. It was instructive to see how the signal changed by waving the pliers faster or slower, further or closer and with different strength magnets. I even tried a resistor in series with the coil to simulate a voltage drop but that didn't have much effect at all. Maybe on this one, the magnet was impacted by warm up or could shift?
Like your Style Gonna subscribe because you speak simple Layman terms in Real time . Did my TPS sensor backprobe today with a needle and ohm meter on my 2012 elantra Gls Touring 2.0 First time was a charm Now my Car can race in videos too !🤣🤣🤣
2014 accent same code but delayed crank after hot soak. Very intermittent. No TSBs. FF data shows no rpm and 204 deg. F. Scope pattern was pretty. Was able to dup. concern w/ extended idle and (most important) having hood shut, then wait 5 minutes. Trick was hood shut capturing heat. Screen capture shows flat line at approx 2V then signal comes back. Was about to throw a sensor at it. Sometimes you have no other option.
take sensor pulley off, clean metal shavings and reinstall. also check if there is any metal shavings on the sensor. Readjust the sensor length form the pulley. That should do it. had the same problem on mazda protege. next time call Eric for help :)
This just happened to me in my 2011 Elantra this morning. Stalled at a stop light. Put it in neutral and it took a long crank to restart it. Tachometer now was holding at 0 rpm but the engine was running. Then I started off from the stop light and it was having problems shifting, especially out of 2nd gear. I kept it running and used the manual shift to take it back home. While in 2nd gear, it would not get to a high RPM; just barely enough to manually shift it to 3rd. Then it was fine from 3rd to 4th to 5th and 6th. After turning it off and letting it sit, I then restarted it and it cranked right up and the tachometer works again. I haven't driven it yet after seeing this info. Will get a new CKPS and replace it. I didn't get a check engine light, but I checked the code and it has P0335.
I have a 2012 accent rb with the 1.4 gamma. It has recently do the exact same thing. Tacho sometimes not working, engine stalling when slowing down on red light. Sometimes the engine getting a very rough idle too. Spray some contact cleaner to the battery ground and its all good. The dealer is bafled by that. They check everything and nothing wrong. So they say its a broken pcm. Maybe I will try adjusting the sensor cable first before buying a pcm. Thank you 😊
sometimes just closing the hood helps to create more heat and generate the fault. Happened to me few times not able to recreate the problem. Cold outside, hood opened, not enough heat to be able to recreate the issue.
Same thing on my 13 Elantra. Would stall at red lights. On start after stall it would slow crank into a sputter, tach wouldn’t go above 0 on throttle. Shut off again and restart would start up normally and tach would work. Scan threw the same code P0335. Best way to replicate the issue is to just sit in a parking lot. Will consistently stall at low rpm.
Great video! You forgot one crucial clue that may have helped you duplicate the condition. Freeze Frame data. I've seen sensors not fail when cold or not fail when hot, but fail in between sometimes. I believe these intermittent problems are getting a lot worse on these newer cars. There's a lot of cars that I had to turn away because I could not get them to act up, and customers don't like hearing that, but what do you do?
Great video, informative. I have an Nissan Almera, 00, 1.5 L. Have the same issue P0335. Did change sensor and did erased code with code reader. But didnt work becourse the code came back. I ll hope this video will help me more.
Had same problem. Tachometer was 0. Gears would stay locked such as only 4th gear engaged no matter if i tried to go faster or manually change it. When it would die it would crank for a while till i started pressing the gas pedal like if i was priming lol it would turn on faster. My traction control would light up a lot i honestly dont know if that was because of my Crank sensor. I assumed it was the ECU going crazy but went with little stuff so i went straight to the crank sensor and changed it. Car worked perfectly. No traction control light no more of what the video explained. Although dont go straight to the crank sensor and change it like i did. Lucky guess. Check the whole crank sensor system. If my trac light comes back ill edit this post and safely assume the crank sensor doesn't mess with trac control. Edit: i indeed have a trac contr problem apart from the one mentioned above.
Check your ABS system. When you have a traction control light on, this is potentially from a faulty wheel speed sensor. Some systems use the ABS WSS for speedometer operation too
Hi Paul, Could you please do a follow up on this? Did the car Come back or touching it fixed it? thank you so much for all the details and explanations!
To recreate this dependably you need to simulate rush hour traffic in a city such as Wash DC. I have this problem or a similar one and my car stalls at least 10 times in a 45 minute commute to work (especially if there is a slight uphill grade). I also have it happen dependably when I enter my garage. I have a stop sign at the intersection near my home which I stop, make a right then a quick left (mine is the second house) then drive up the grade of my driveway it will die before it gets to the garage unless I gun it which dangerous.
Got a p0300 code, and p0305 both misfire. But said it was coming from crankshaft sensor. I changed it, and my truck went nuts!! It through code p0339. It idles up and down until it shuts off. Flashing check engine light
It happened today to me on accent 2014 110000 km . I cleaned the battery terminals then cheked the sensor connectors then removed the sensor and clean it . It works now . Until it dies i will replace the sensor .
I had a some problem on the chevo Cruze crankshaft position sensor and the car has a hard crank sometimes it's stalling , I thought of changing the crankshaft sensor but my tools doesn't learn the crankshaft sensor , any idea how I can learn it after I changed the crankshaft sensor 🤗🤗🤗 thanks for the video
ScannerDanner -- does this scenario sound like a bad crankshaft position sensor? My mom's car is a 2016 Hyunda Elantra 1.8 litre 4 cylinder engine. The car will die/stall when slowing down/coasting to slower speed. It runs fine if you're driving slower (with foot on gas pedal giving it gas) or even highway speeds though. It's just slower speeds or coming to a stop when it stalls. There are no trouble codes showing up. The auto parts store ran their code reader on it, too, just in case and their code reader didn't show anything either. When the car dies it starts right back up, no hard starts and so far the tachometer hasn't failed either. I'm baffled so anything helps!
A have a 2013 model and This is literally exactly the sound that it’s making, I do live in Miami so this is happening the first 5-10 of me driving, it still drives when it has 0 rpm and sometimes I have no choice because it happens right when I get on the express way, anyways, so I should just try to unplug and plug it in to see if that’s the fix?? Or maybe call Hyundai To see if it’s replaceable
IMPORTANT: I had the same issue, it turns out I was really low on fuel. It stalled out on me once but the fuel gauge was reading two lines. The digital fuel gauge can be deceiving sometimes. When it stalled, it triggered the p0335 code. All I did was fueled it up, and the problem never came back
Every failing crank sensor I have come across fails when its hot...Many times I hve simply removed the sensor sprayed it with an aerosol like break cleaner to cool it down and it starts right up when installed...
Question. these sensors have the benefit that they do not require an external power supply, because they produce there own voltage. However where is the 2.5 volts coming from when key is on engine off.
gotta love intermittants ! just a thought was it damp wet or raining when the fault occurred. a water bottle sometimes helps. seen cracked plastic and damp conditions cause problems
My wifey complained about stalling coming to stops and at idle. I was not able to duplicate it or witness the failure myself for 3 weeks of me driving the car and riding with my wife driving. It was driving us crazy. It only stall on her. The after driving another 1200 miles appx. It stalled on me like gang busters. It would stall. Hard crank to restart engine with warning ESC light and check engine light on. The ESC on cases a super slow acceleration 0-15 in 6+ seconds, no RPM reading, and rough idling. The next morning I took a couple hours to self monitor the car. I cleared the warning lights by cycling the key on/off until the car started normally. I let the idling until it stalled at appx.10 minutes when engine temperature was up. My restart had the same results Check Engine & ESC lights on. I cleared the warning lights and let the engine cool. Car started fine and stall when it reached operating temp. With the warning light on I ran a scan and got the P 0335 crank shaft sensor code. Called up Napa and got the part $160 - Sensor CSS1435 for 2013 Elantra GT with 138K miles. Removal & Replacement took 15 minutes. This is the only problem we’ve had with the car since buying it new. FYI - DEALERSHIP HAD THE CAR FOR TWO WEEKS AND DIDN’T DO DIDDLY SQUAT. SOMETIMES YOU JUST HAVE TO GO ON DIYS BEAST MODE THE GET THINGS DONE! It’s been 3 week! Car is running good! Cheers! SJ
With no crank signal would engine rev-up still ? Friend tells me car won't go over 25mph. Has code p0355 runs fine when I drive it. I'm going to check wiring and replace the sensor most likely..
Hi Paul, another great video thanks. I’m having a very similar problem. 08 Scion XB 2.4. Same code, however no stalling, no drivability problems at all. Prior to me the crank sensor and pcm (used) have been replaced. I’m curious, your code says circuit A. My says circuit B. I can’t seem to find info on that. Any ideas? Also if anyone has run across something similar, I appreciate advice. Thanks.
Wondering if this is the same freaking thing in my 2013 elantra. Brought mine into two shops after twice having it randomly not start and neither shop could replicate it. I guess for good reason they can't since it seems to do it weeks in between. It cranks but starts up incredibly weak when it finally gets going, tach would still work although granted eradically, and the engine again sounded very very quiet but stumbling almost like a misfire. After doing a restart of the car, all is fine like nothing happened. I wonder if Im just seeing the beginning of the rabbit hole, I already dropped money on a battery sadly after a shop told me it was bad because of the CCA. One day I got in my car thinking doo doo doo brand new battery I'm good. I turned the key, crank crank crank for what seemed to be way too long, before it finally started but again unnaturally quiet and stumbling almost dying. I may just try this man, I've already flushed money down on the battery, and this seems to be all over the net aside from the shifter problems which only seems to be the issue when there is a no crank, and no click. Regardless awesome video, I was thinking it was a different issue entirely, like bad spark plugs, bad fuel pump, you know the stuff that usually breaks on cars lol :P
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Interesting story, I took my car in to the dealership and without a code they were unable to find the problem. I watch his video and mentioned it could be the crankshaft position sensor. They told me that without a code they couldn’t fix it. So 10 months down the road still having the issue and getting worse, I watch the RUclips channel and quickly determined the sensor was failing. I haven’t had any issues we’re stalling yet.Thanks for the video, it was very informative
I have the same problem. I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra. I appreciate y'all taking time out to help us without having to go to shop
Did you fix it
@@J.NX10realestateinvestorI sure did Thank to your video. GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS
Intermittents suck. You can fix things by touching them, you can break things by touching them, or of course the best one, the vehicle doesn’t act up when you have it. Great video Paul!
My 2011 Hyundai Elantra would stall at a red light with the A/C running at first while it was really hot outside. It did it twice within 3 days without the engine light on. 2 days later it died again then the engine light came on. All 3 times the rmp needle would not move which confirmed that my car had the exact same issue. So I took it to the dealer and they confirmed that it was the crank sensor. They replaced it and haven’t had that issue since. Your video helped me narrow down the reason before going in to have it checked so thank you very much!!
First, great video, secondly, I just recently became a premium member. Whether a person is a hobbyist or a pro, they should give themselves a gift and become a member of your premium channel. Your real world testing using the scope and the electrical schematic work is the without a doubt the best. I think its great that you take your time to teach as you troubleshoot, priceless. A million thanks to you!
Excellent video man! I've had this same issue on my 2012 Elantra 100k miles. First guy charged me 800 to replace wiring harness and re-wire (had to do it as I was stranded far from home on Thanksgiving and car wouldn't start). Kept happening and then dealership charged me another $250 to replace a difference sensor....still happening. Now I see this and realize a $25 part and about 30minutes of work will fix my car. I got ripped off!
Excellent video. My 2020 Elantra started exhibiting these symptoms after 125000 miles. Finally kicked the 335 code. Crankshaft sensor fixed it immediately
Scanner
I got rid of my 2012 elantra gls touring last week
Mechanics here in Omaha need you to train them !
Sensors will keep you employed forever !
Godbless
I had this problem on my 2014 Hyundai Accent Hatchback SE unfortunately the dealership couldn't find or reproduce the issue, but when I had the car in my possession I had the stalling issue. Instead of turning the car off I decided to drive the car to the dealership with the RPM needle on Zero they managed to find the error code of the Crankshaft position sensor malfunctioning, so I decided to get it replaced. So far my car is running fine after the replacement still awaiting futher testing for any new issues.
Update: After a whole week I haven't got any starting or stalling issues since the Crankshaft position sensor was replaced. This video did help me a lot of understanding what was wrong with my car and helped me avoid scams at the dealership.
Thanks for sharing. I think most dealership do not set out to scam, just that intermittent issues are hard to diagnose. They rather spend time on doing regular maintenances and surfaced problem (e.g. engine don't start at all). Just money and time.
I just found video after searching for a while and taking Hyundai to 3 different mechanics, caliber automotive, Christian brothers, Hyundai dealership . Thank you sir
Thank you so much for sharing this. My 2014 Elantra stalled out on me twice this week with no check engine lights on. What you shared is 100% duplicate of what i have been experiencing. I have been afraid to drive it and have racked my brain for days.
Thanks very much for the follow up text at the end indicating that the sensor failed the next day, was replaced by the dealer and problem has not returned. Very informative video!
I really appreciate your honesty in trying to troubleshoot this and prove what the issue was. I bet your customers love you. Keep up the good work. I wish my mechanic did videos on my car and prove the issues instead of wasting my money trying everything under the sun.
Excellent explanations and diagnosis. Mine Elantra showed same symptoms and it was the Crank sensor. Best part of this vid is the 300 mph driving speed.
The driving sequence stressed me out!
Yep, the 300 mph driving speed, it was ridiculous...
Glad I checked out your video. My vehicle started having this issue a couple of days ago. Took forever to start up, extremely limited power. To the point where I could floor it and only be hitting about 40. Ordering a part and hopefully, I can get it installed and fix this issue.
Ditto on my wife's 2013 gt
I just experienced this issue today on my 2013 Elantra. One addition was that when I did drive it while coded, it was also stuck in 5th gear. Also when I cleared the code, it ran normally again. Just wanted to also say this was a very informative video. Great work, gives me something else to watch out for. Thanks!
This only happens to the car in the first 10 minutes of me turning it on for the day... Now I know what the problems thank you
2013 Hyundai Sante Fe with the EXACT same issues. Going to get this replaced asap. This video is great
A great video. You're right on point. The stalling happens more when it is hot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I have a had a couple of this and the way I get them to act up is drive them for a couple of miles then let it sit for 20-30min and the sensor acts up no start no rpms on tac, Just had Elantra GT today that would actually die after I warmed up car up for about 15min swapped the sensor and fixed the problem, great vid!
Just had this issue, tried your solution and now it's running great. Thanks for your help
Thanks for the info, it’s really helpful.
This can work for a 2015 Veloster turbo as well, I had the same problem, I did the same you did and it works! You helped me saving $180.
I am currently having this issue. I was told it was my alternator shelled out 478 bucks if it. It’s still stalling. I greatly appreciate you uploading this informative video. It’s unnerving when it happens because sometimes it takes for ever to start
Does it crank normally? After the stall? Or do you need to jump start it? If it cranks normally, your alternator is not your problem. An alternator will not cause long crank times
proof of concept was there Paul,Cool so can still drive with a fully broken crank sensor, good engineering in my opinion.
Wow. This bailed me out. Fixed same problem for Hyundai Elantra 2012 by changing the crankshaft. Mine was exact colour. Thanks Man. Kudos
How much was it to change the crankshaft? I have the same car and I'm stalling once or twice a week now even after replacing the fuel pump
This was very helpful. Thanks for the update at the end. My 2013 Elantra GT is experiencing the exact issues.
From Brunei with millions of thanks, been searching for answers and I happened to stumble on your video explaining the exact same symptoms on my wife's 2016 kia sportage. I had suspected the CKP earlier on from some internet sources and had it removed and cleaned(which i thought would fix the problem lol, and tried multiple times for it reoccur but it just wouldn't happen when i tested it but funny enough the car stalled multiple times when my wife drove for the past 2 weeks ago). So your video is clear enough for me to decide to just change the CKP. Again, thanks man. Subbed and liked!!
Your car pun kana this problem? Haha recently my Elantra pun kana masalah cemani. So its the crankshaft position sensor?
There is always something to learn from your videos, like them very much.
Same problem here with a 2012 Accent, stalls when I stop and sometimes running, code P0335, no check engine light at first, then i got it after 3 times failing, difficult to restart ignition and no tachometer reading, i have to wait a few seconds to restart the car properly and tachometer start reading about 20 seconds after that. Im buying the sensor replacement today. Thank you, I also tried throttle body cleaning first because of the symptoms and the absence of check engine light.
Man yall drive fast there. I dig it.
this is the most common car in my countries and this is also acommon fault in hyndai , when ckp is hot it is not working and if u let the car 10 minutes it runs good then stalling , i am happy that you are working in hyndai finally paul ❤ but i wish if i saw the shape of waves to know it ..
Tech Check where do you live buddy?
Jimmy Rey
Eastern side of the world bro
Yep weak point for hyndai
Marian Luc
yep
in fact u are de best teacher ever met online
Thank you so much. I changed crankshaft sensor and problem solved. Elantra 2012 146k km
I found another reason to stall in idle ,. It was not a mechanical part, it was a failing alternator regulator, some times it fails to maintain 14v and the time it start to fail voltage goes 18v+.
ECU shut off the main relay and stop all electrical supplies to protect the car electrical system.
I use OBD tool to record voltage graph during 1-2 hour driving and when I got the stalling , i checked the voltage graph. Thats the way I found it.
I checked all connections , all fuses .. nothing was wrong . It was only a simple regulator built in behind alternator.
Hope this will also help to explorers .
Rare fault indeed. Thanks for sharing. May I ask what car and year model is this?
Great video Paul. I had a similar issue with a Saab 2001 CKP, it was great intermittent starts and died at idle. I removed the CKP sensor and heated up with a hair dryer, sure enough the resistance and changed drastically. Funny though, the San
B never registered a CKP sensor fault, I regard the Saab engine management system as very sophisticated, but "no code" huge surprise. Anyway changed the CKP sensor and everything fine now.
As always keep up the great videos Paul.
Thankyou.. thankx for the video.. im having exactly the same problem and i promise you. My vehicle its a 2016 hyundai accent. I just connected my scan tool and its the PO335. THANKX AGAIN AND GOD BLESS!!
Had the exact same issue on my 2012 elantra today. Noticed if you run it driving or idling for 15 minutes, the tachometer stops working and it does not rev up and goes into limp mode when driving. Changed the crank position sensor and it rectified it.
Found this video, I think you've just saved my butt!! I am so thankful!!
Nice work Paul.. Damn good diag work.. man this type of stuff happens to me all the time .. trying to recreate the fault of the component that you know is having issues but for some reason when it gets to your hands ..it acts all brand new..lol .. Have me scratching your head sometimes man.. Thank you for sharing brother... God Bless
I am having same issue with 2010 Accent. Very good info. After about 10 mins. of driving If i do not keep it rev'd when i slow down it will die. Typically it kind of hiccups and throw a check engine light, loss of tack/shift indicator. Restarts sometimes but not always. Wait 5-10 mins. it restarts. Shop said fuel pump,no load at idle. Additionally along with tach loss i have a manual trans, I lose shift notification.
Another problem to look out for, on the Elantra, is that the car will turn off while being driven due to low oil . Meaning that there will be no indicator light coming on at the dash, yet the oil pressure sensor will have the computer turn off the engine to prevent damage.
I always learn something from watching your videos, thanks for taking the time to show us
Great Video. Sometimes you just can't reproduce them no matter how hard you try.
The car respects the "MASTER DIAGNOSTIC TECH".... where evil lurks...never fear... Danner is here. Great video, bro!
Lol
Oh, dead on and Thank you. You are an excellent and Honest mechanic.
Greetings,My 2012 Hyundai Elantra is doing the same thing. My plan first cleaning the throttle body. But since I say your video,this will help me greatly. So When the car is idling putting on the AC the car while stall awhile afterwards. Then it will give me a long crank to start then the tachometer doesn't move giving me slow acceleration. The engine light will come on. So I have to turn the AC off and then back on. The car will drive but negative reading on the tachometer. I will change the crankshaft position sensor this weekend. It was a very informative video. Thank You
The crankshaft sensor was definitely the issue. Thanks Again 😀
The 2 wire pickup coils on motorcycles I've seen fail hot many times, but never during warm up. Just goes to show that anything is possible when it comes to electrical failures!
We used to test those with a multimeter on AC volts - would see a few tenths of a volt kicking it over - more if it was electric start. That usually meant it was good. 99% of the time they'd be completely dead when they failed, or you'd see the pinched wires someone caught in the side cover - made diags pretty easy. A scope sure makes this whole process 100x more accurate though! Would've sped the process up, for sure.
Pretty sad that this component didn't even reach 50k miles. Going to be ALOT of work in the future for techs, I predict! :)
I chuckled at the fast-forward drive there - sounded like a 2-stroke engine in that car revving to 12k RPM, hahaha! Wish we could drive around that fast on public roads. I'd get alot more done in a day! 😁
Great vid as always brother.👍
great video! having the same issue with my own car wish i could of done it myself but still feeling better having the work done regardless now even if it cost me more. the update at the end of the video was great
No matter the outcome of the video, you still relayed a great lesson. You were on the right track, the sensor just didn't want to act up badly when you were looking. Kind of like me when I was a kid. I never acted up with my dad watching. :)
You fixed it by just touching the connector.......you have magic hands my friend! Lol
Great video! I just bought a 2016 Hyandai Elantra three weeks ago and the engine shakes when I idle at a stop light like it wants to stall. First start up every morning is rough. The engine will chug then stall. It takes three times starting it to get it running. I took it back to the dealership I have a 3 month power train warranty but if course they said they're not getting a code so they just recommended a fuel system cleaning 🙄.
What ended up happening after?
Had similiar problems with a little Fiat called Seicento (sold only in Europe). It was stalling at idle and it was getting worse quickly, to the point I couldn't restart it before it had cooled down. Had to push it off the road several times. Also after you shut down the engine when it was hot, it was really tough to start again. When cold there was absolutely no problems, it was working like a charm. But the second it got hot it all started again. New crank sensor fixed it. But I had not check engine, and no DTCs in the computer, what mislead me a bit (this car didn't have a cam sensor, so maybe it coudn't get a reference to anything, thus it wasn't setting any codes)
My car has been doing this. Starts and stalls sitting in the driveway. Then just cranks and won’t start again. I’ve had it towed twice. Gets to the shop and they say it’s fine. Today for the first time it actually started again with No RPM got it home, Restarted it and it’s running fine. Thanks for your video. It’s happened 3 times on a year and seems to resolve itself somehow eventually. Now I can clean that connector up and if it happens again tell them to check it.
A new sensor was the final fix for us.
I have a 2012 GLS. It has always started hard. With that said, it will seize on hot days. Having to put it in park to restart, always at a stop where it can't idle past 1k RPM. Now the tach doesn't read and is running from the cam. So, yes, holy shit was this informative. If I plan the start just right, I do have a tach. From turning the key to the engine turning over...there is generally a delay.
Love the 'fast' tour of the area Paul. Don't apologize....sometimes all one can do is change the part out,: and we always come away from your videos with something learned!
May I suggest something? Have a can of CRC component freeze handy for jobs like this one.
It may help! 😄
I found an Instructables on how to make one of these sensors using a coil from a relay and a magnet.(MAGNETIC SPEED SENSOR) I didn't have a reluctor ring or gear to create a regular signal but waving lineman's pliers in front worked. It was instructive to see how the signal changed by waving the pliers faster or slower, further or closer and with different strength magnets. I even tried a resistor in series with the coil to simulate a voltage drop but that didn't have much effect at all.
Maybe on this one, the magnet was impacted by warm up or could shift?
"Of its not going to stall when I'm here; it knows I'm here 😂"
intermittents suck indeed, cant stress that enough, good lesson on backprobing. good video overall.
Paul I love how about 3:20 in you switch the key off and sort of whisper "let this power down for a second" as if speaking loudly will wake it. :)
This is the fastest Hyundai i ever seen
Good info here, always learn something from you. Thanks for sharing
Like your Style
Gonna subscribe because you speak simple Layman terms in Real time .
Did my TPS sensor backprobe today with a needle and ohm meter on my 2012 elantra Gls Touring 2.0
First time was a charm
Now my Car can race in videos too !🤣🤣🤣
I am new to this channel but this video is so good and I thank you very much😍
Thank you! And welcome!
2014 accent same code but delayed crank after hot soak. Very intermittent.
No TSBs.
FF data shows no rpm and 204 deg. F. Scope pattern was pretty.
Was able to dup. concern w/ extended idle and (most important) having hood shut, then wait 5 minutes. Trick was hood shut capturing heat.
Screen capture shows flat line at approx 2V then signal comes back.
Was about to throw a sensor at it. Sometimes you have no other option.
I just had one of these on a 2012 jeep patriot 4x4. It was a fun time fighting to get to that sensor.
take sensor pulley off, clean metal shavings and reinstall. also check if there is any metal shavings on the sensor. Readjust the sensor length form the pulley. That should do it. had the same problem on mazda protege. next time call Eric for help :)
This just happened to me in my 2011 Elantra this morning. Stalled at a stop light. Put it in neutral and it took a long crank to restart it. Tachometer now was holding at 0 rpm but the engine was running. Then I started off from the stop light and it was having problems shifting, especially out of 2nd gear. I kept it running and used the manual shift to take it back home. While in 2nd gear, it would not get to a high RPM; just barely enough to manually shift it to 3rd. Then it was fine from 3rd to 4th to 5th and 6th. After turning it off and letting it sit, I then restarted it and it cranked right up and the tachometer works again. I haven't driven it yet after seeing this info. Will get a new CKPS and replace it. I didn't get a check engine light, but I checked the code and it has P0335.
I replaced the CKPS and all is good so far. Thanks for all your great videos.
I was having similar issues, mine was the speed sensor.
I'm really surprised that sensor failed after 4 years and 45,000 miles.
They have the 5 yr or 60k miles on second owners for warranty.. I would hope this wld be covered. But this helped me learn.. ;-)
@@KatrinaTrys I got the same problem, should i replace it now or just wait til the sensor dies?
I have a 2012 accent rb with the 1.4 gamma. It has recently do the exact same thing. Tacho sometimes not working, engine stalling when slowing down on red light. Sometimes the engine getting a very rough idle too.
Spray some contact cleaner to the battery ground and its all good.
The dealer is bafled by that. They check everything and nothing wrong. So they say its a broken pcm.
Maybe I will try adjusting the sensor cable first before buying a pcm. Thank you 😊
Would using a hair dryer to help heat up the sensor help on diagnosing it.
It would have helped, but I did close the hood and let it get hot which is usually enough
Looked like a scene from Knight Rider on that test drive! lol As always I've learned something new. Great video.
sometimes just closing the hood helps to create more heat and generate the fault. Happened to me few times not able to recreate the problem. Cold outside, hood opened, not enough heat to be able to recreate the issue.
Same thing on my 13 Elantra. Would stall at red lights. On start after stall it would slow crank into a sputter, tach wouldn’t go above 0 on throttle. Shut off again and restart would start up normally and tach would work.
Scan threw the same code P0335. Best way to replicate the issue is to just sit in a parking lot. Will consistently stall at low rpm.
Great video! You forgot one crucial clue that may have helped you duplicate the condition. Freeze Frame data. I've seen sensors not fail when cold or not fail when hot, but fail in between sometimes. I believe these intermittent problems are getting a lot worse on these newer cars. There's a lot of cars that I had to turn away because I could not get them to act up, and customers don't like hearing that, but what do you do?
Dan.. YOU THE MAN!! Thank you for this video
Thanks! My name is Paul Danner btw 😉
Great video, informative. I have an Nissan Almera, 00, 1.5 L. Have the same issue P0335. Did change sensor and did erased code with code reader. But didnt work becourse the code came back. I ll hope this video will help me more.
Had same problem. Tachometer was 0. Gears would stay locked such as only 4th gear engaged no matter if i tried to go faster or manually change it. When it would die it would crank for a while till i started pressing the gas pedal like if i was priming lol it would turn on faster. My traction control would light up a lot i honestly dont know if that was because of my Crank sensor. I assumed it was the ECU going crazy but went with little stuff so i went straight to the crank sensor and changed it. Car worked perfectly. No traction control light no more of what the video explained. Although dont go straight to the crank sensor and change it like i did. Lucky guess. Check the whole crank sensor system. If my trac light comes back ill edit this post and safely assume the crank sensor doesn't mess with trac control.
Edit: i indeed have a trac contr problem apart from the one mentioned above.
Check your ABS system. When you have a traction control light on, this is potentially from a faulty wheel speed sensor. Some systems use the ABS WSS for speedometer operation too
@@ScannerDanner will do thanks.
Long day for you working until dark chasing gremlins. We've all been there.
Hi Paul, Could you please do a follow up on this? Did the car Come back or touching it fixed it?
thank you so much for all the details and explanations!
It needed a new crank sensor
To recreate this dependably you need to simulate rush hour traffic in a city such as Wash DC. I have this problem or a similar one and my car stalls at least 10 times in a 45 minute commute to work (especially if there is a slight uphill grade). I also have it happen dependably when I enter my garage. I have a stop sign at the intersection near my home which I stop, make a right then a quick left (mine is the second house) then drive up the grade of my driveway it will die before it gets to the garage unless I gun it which dangerous.
Got a p0300 code, and p0305 both misfire. But said it was coming from crankshaft sensor. I changed it, and my truck went nuts!! It through code p0339. It idles up and down until it shuts off. Flashing check engine light
It happened today to me on accent 2014 110000 km . I cleaned the battery terminals then cheked the sensor connectors then removed the sensor and clean it . It works now . Until it dies i will replace the sensor .
Man you were hauling A$$ on that test drive.
i thought he was about to rear end that chrysler at one point
I had a some problem on the chevo Cruze crankshaft position sensor and the car has a hard crank sometimes it's stalling , I thought of changing the crankshaft sensor but my tools doesn't learn the crankshaft sensor , any idea how I can learn it after I changed the crankshaft sensor 🤗🤗🤗 thanks for the video
Very informative Paul, nice job.
ScannerDanner -- does this scenario sound like a bad crankshaft position sensor? My mom's car is a 2016 Hyunda Elantra 1.8 litre 4 cylinder engine. The car will die/stall when slowing down/coasting to slower speed. It runs fine if you're driving slower (with foot on gas pedal giving it gas) or even highway speeds though. It's just slower speeds or coming to a stop when it stalls. There are no trouble codes showing up. The auto parts store ran their code reader on it, too, just in case and their code reader didn't show anything either. When the car dies it starts right back up, no hard starts and so far the tachometer hasn't failed either. I'm baffled so anything helps!
A have a 2013 model and This is literally exactly the sound that it’s making, I do live in Miami so this is happening the first 5-10 of me driving, it still drives when it has 0 rpm and sometimes I have no choice because it happens right when I get on the express way, anyways, so I should just try to unplug and plug it in to see if that’s the fix?? Or maybe call Hyundai To see if it’s replaceable
IMPORTANT: I had the same issue, it turns out I was really low on fuel. It stalled out on me once but the fuel gauge was reading two lines. The digital fuel gauge can be deceiving sometimes. When it stalled, it triggered the p0335 code. All I did was fueled it up, and the problem never came back
So you can read the AC reluctant style senses under Volts DC?
Every failing crank sensor I have come across fails when its hot...Many times I hve simply removed the sensor sprayed it with an aerosol like break cleaner to cool it down and it starts right up when installed...
me too, until now
Question. these sensors have the benefit that they do not require an external power supply, because they produce there own voltage. However where is the 2.5 volts coming from when key is on engine off.
gotta love intermittants ! just a thought was it damp wet or raining when the fault occurred. a water bottle sometimes helps. seen cracked plastic and damp conditions cause problems
weather conditions were not a factor in this case but thanks for the reminder!
My wifey complained about stalling coming to stops and at idle. I was not able to duplicate it or witness the failure myself for 3 weeks of me driving the car and riding with my wife driving. It was driving us crazy. It only stall on her. The after driving another 1200 miles appx. It stalled on me like gang busters. It would stall. Hard crank to restart engine with warning ESC light and check engine light on. The ESC on cases a super slow acceleration 0-15 in 6+ seconds, no RPM reading, and rough idling. The next morning I took a couple hours to self monitor the car. I cleared the warning lights by cycling the key on/off until the car started normally. I let the idling until it stalled at appx.10 minutes when engine temperature was up. My restart had the same results Check Engine & ESC lights on. I cleared the warning lights and let the engine cool. Car started fine and stall when it reached operating temp. With the warning light on I ran a scan and got the P 0335 crank shaft sensor code. Called up Napa and got the part $160 - Sensor CSS1435 for 2013 Elantra GT with 138K miles. Removal & Replacement took 15 minutes. This is the only problem we’ve had with the car since buying it new. FYI - DEALERSHIP HAD THE CAR FOR TWO WEEKS AND DIDN’T DO DIDDLY SQUAT. SOMETIMES YOU JUST HAVE TO GO ON DIYS BEAST MODE THE GET THINGS DONE!
It’s been 3 week! Car is running good!
Cheers!
SJ
With no crank signal would engine rev-up still ? Friend tells me car won't go over 25mph. Has code p0355 runs fine when I drive it. I'm going to check wiring and replace the sensor most likely..
Hi Paul, another great video thanks. I’m having a very similar problem. 08 Scion XB 2.4. Same code, however no stalling, no drivability problems at all. Prior to me the crank sensor and pcm (used) have been replaced. I’m curious, your code says circuit A. My says circuit B. I can’t seem to find info on that. Any ideas? Also if anyone has run across something similar, I appreciate advice. Thanks.
Not sure offhand but those are significant at times in giving you direction. You need to at least read the flowchart to determine your variables.
Hey Paul Danner thanks for the amazing videos and what is your opinion about Scotty Kilmer? Do you think he is a part changer? Thanks
Scotty is an entertainer first with nuggets of car stuff along the way. I don't fault his approach to this industry at all.
Wondering if this is the same freaking thing in my 2013 elantra. Brought mine into two shops after twice having it randomly not start and neither shop could replicate it. I guess for good reason they can't since it seems to do it weeks in between.
It cranks but starts up incredibly weak when it finally gets going, tach would still work although granted eradically, and the engine again sounded very very quiet but stumbling almost like a misfire. After doing a restart of the car, all is fine like nothing happened. I wonder if Im just seeing the beginning of the rabbit hole, I already dropped money on a battery sadly after a shop told me it was bad because of the CCA.
One day I got in my car thinking doo doo doo brand new battery I'm good. I turned the key, crank crank crank for what seemed to be way too long, before it finally started but again unnaturally quiet and stumbling almost dying. I may just try this man, I've already flushed money down on the battery, and this seems to be all over the net aside from the shifter problems which only seems to be the issue when there is a no crank, and no click.
Regardless awesome video, I was thinking it was a different issue entirely, like bad spark plugs, bad fuel pump, you know the stuff that usually breaks on cars lol :P
Another great video my good man! Been subscribing to your channel since day 1, keep the video coming!
Thanks so much! That's been a long time now :-)
Was wondering if we could expect the similar symptoms for camshaft sensor faults too?
depends on the car, they all react differently to cam sensor faults depending on the ignition design of the car and also how many cam sensors it has
Speaking from experience. The answer is. Yes. Camshaft sensor needs replacing as well.
I also replaced the selanoid as well, for the transmission. Own a 2018 Hyundai Elantra SEL