So I'm about to do an IJPA (New PF and Rad-Cals) and I wanted to know how much the white or other things below show through? I painted the sides of my backbox, since I'm starting there. To match the rest of the back box, I'm painting it black. But now I'm concerned I may have to sand / paint the sides white to get the color of the sides of the rad-cals on the back box to show through.
Yeah, each one is tough, I was surprised how much the old art could show on my yellow, I J I may lean to white but the edges may need to be matching, hard to say without having them , but definitely want to consider
Great work, many thanks mate! So no problem with the rails then, as the rad-cals are pretty thick? Another suggestion i got for applying mine (for a WH2O) was to to drill out the holes and make them bigger for the bolts to hide them behind the rad-cals. Did you consider this too at the beginning?
I did consider predrilling holes, problem was there was the one area in taxi with the artwork pre drilled for me. So I HAD to work off that point, and I wanted to control the rest of the holes while on the cab so I didn't do any more.
@@zen311 Cheers mate - but i meant drilling out the cabinet holes where a bolt goes, with a Forstner Drill bit. In this case you dont need to cut the rad-cals because the bolt is the flush with the cabinet and the wood.
@@masto75 ah I see, sorry, misunderstood. I thought about that, I saw one person comment on that. On taxi, the decals go under the rails, I wanted them under the hardware too. If I did a WPC game, of which they don't go under the rails, I would likely do just that. Forstner bit makes most sense, good point. As far as the rails go, it's perfect, looks really good!!
So I'm about to do an IJPA (New PF and Rad-Cals) and I wanted to know how much the white or other things below show through? I painted the sides of my backbox, since I'm starting there. To match the rest of the back box, I'm painting it black. But now I'm concerned I may have to sand / paint the sides white to get the color of the sides of the rad-cals on the back box to show through.
Yeah, each one is tough, I was surprised how much the old art could show on my yellow, I J I may lean to white but the edges may need to be matching, hard to say without having them , but definitely want to consider
Great work, many thanks mate!
So no problem with the rails then, as the rad-cals are pretty thick?
Another suggestion i got for applying mine (for a WH2O) was to to drill out the holes and make them bigger for the bolts to hide them behind the rad-cals.
Did you consider this too at the beginning?
I did consider predrilling holes, problem was there was the one area in taxi with the artwork pre drilled for me. So I HAD to work off that point, and I wanted to control the rest of the holes while on the cab so I didn't do any more.
@@zen311 Cheers mate - but i meant drilling out the cabinet holes where a bolt goes, with a Forstner Drill bit. In this case you dont need to cut the rad-cals because the bolt is the flush with the cabinet and the wood.
@@masto75 ah I see, sorry, misunderstood. I thought about that, I saw one person comment on that. On taxi, the decals go under the rails, I wanted them under the hardware too. If I did a WPC game, of which they don't go under the rails, I would likely do just that. Forstner bit makes most sense, good point. As far as the rails go, it's perfect, looks really good!!
@@zen311 Cool, thanks for letting me know! Really would love a Taxi or a Diner in my collection too.