No no no. Stop Ted. There's a curved and slotted cast iron bracket in behind the the 120T and 127T gears. Loosen the bolt, slide along the slot and it will move the gear axis and enable enough space for the gears to mesh with no worries at all. As for the spacers and key etc behind the 48T gear, nothing needs to be changed at all, it's all perfect the way it is. Don't forget the fears in your toolbox too. Hope I'm not too late, cheers Michael 🇦🇺
Always appreciate comments The AL-346V is a good lathe, but It had a Spidle problem, & gave it back undrr Warranty. I picked up an AL-356V 8" chucks 51mm spindle bore with D-5 six cam lock pins instead of 3. Bigger better lathe, hope that helps
With the actual shaft modification actual shaft slot was extended, because the spacer is moved front or rear of gear for ratio's, but in the factory, they should have had a full slot instead of a shortened slot, not allowing the space to be to rear of gear, slot & woodruff keys were wrong. Was modified, with ok from higher powers so to speak
@@TedRoza I have that machine too which is why I know that your modifications were unnecessary. You are not at all interested in accepting that you modified a perfectly good machine all because you failed to understand how to set up the gears. Pride or something, I don't know...personally I'd be happy and grateful to know. Everyone makes mistakes Ted Roza, you're compounding yours and making yourself look like an imbecile by trying to justify your efforts. They were 100% unnecessary! No one expects you to know everything about everything Ted Roza, you just got it all fcked up this time around. That's all. Go get someone to show you what to do. Cheers bloke, Michael 🇦🇺 ALSO - Woodruff keys are 'generally' used for light duty and keys on a taper. I'd be really really surprised if it wasn't square parallel key/keys you came across. BUT, I'm happy to be corrected...(unlike yourself, lol).
@@TedRoza Well don't screw that one up too !(excuse the pun) I bet the 346V is relieved to be out of your shed. Looks like you're a bit of a wrecker, lol. Keep taking them back, you'll have a Dashin by Christmas, 🤣😂😅
@@SpatialGuy77 ok .. so what is with all this Negativity. When you don't know the circumstances, & I look after my equipment, so an Apology is required. We are here to do a bit of machining or whatever, not go around trying to bully & Abuse People. Their warranty people had a look, & I modified the the shaft & did what was done under their suggestion,
Hi Ted, hello from NZ. I see in the comments that you upgraded to a AL-356. I have the same lathe. Have you set the gears in that lathe to cut imperial threads? I need to do that to mine and just want to check that I'm following the manual correctly. As far as I see it is just a matter of changing the A gear from 30 to 40 teeth, and moving the B gear from the 120 teeth gear to the 127 teeth gear. If you have don't it, is that what you did?
G'day. I haven't changed to Imperial at this stage, will be in the near future on a couple of projects coming up. Long as you realise, that you have to be very particular in using the gear settings exactly as stated, & that you start on for example numer 1 position on the dial Indicator, then engage the Half Nut at the appropriate time. Do Not disengage the Half Nut at anytime, when coming to the edge of the thread being cut. Unless you are quick enough to wind out compound so not to hit anything, then I would suggest apply footbrake which will stop the motor & either wind the chuck manually or quickly press the Jogger buttom to go to end of thread.
Then wind the cross slide out remembering your dialed in setting. Then in reverse go back to start position of thread ( do Not disengage half nut ) Go at least 10mm past the start position, dial in the new thread depth, select forward & repeat thread cutting again Or you can hold the jog button in, & cut the thread that way Hope this helps
A gear =40 teeth & stays on 120 B gear=40 teeth & goes on 127 Carfully check the thread setting on the front of the lathe not in the manual Example 16 tpi lever 3 R + A C With Half Nut Always Engaged Hope this helps .. let me know how you go
@@TedRoza Thanks so much Ted, that is very helpful. I changed the gears today and everything went well. It is so much easier than older lathes where you have to change a bunch of gears.
Interesting - seeing as the Asian machines are sold all over the world I would be that machines under different name plates would need the same refit. Good to see you're doing well, cheers!
Hi Everett. These are made in Taiwan, better than the Chinese ones or so they say. Long as it helps at least one person, who might have had the same problem .
Hi Peter .. lol I wasn't going to remove the shaft , so the next choice was file or Grinder with a thin disk, lol Air Grinder won out lol 😆 🤣 😂 I still finished with small files.
Also, give those installed gears a rub with an oily rag, they're getting that fine surface rust from the humidity. Too expensive and good a machine (apart from lacking power, but it is restricted by the single phase motor) to not keep it immaculate. Quick rub on all your gears they'll be good as new forever. Hey, how do you find the spindle speed vs torque when using the digital speed controller? Any other issues with it so far? Cheers again, Michael 🇦🇺
Can’t help wondering if the Hafco AL 356V will have the same issue? Might it not have been that you just flip the 127/120 gear over to avoid needing to make the spacer with longer woodruff key maybe? (Just guessing). 👍
G'day mate. Thanks for your comment. I think that each machine has it's own lock & spacer type. You will probably find the AL-356V is already modified with a full length key way. If Not it can easily be done. BTW I did this Mod. with the Permission from the Company where I purchased the Lathe. I told them what had to be done, of which they Agreed.
@@TedRoza Thanks mate, I was wondering if it might affect warranty - so that answers that question. Thanks heaps. Must get over when next we have a cool spell and have an eyeball of the AL346V 👍
Ian, how dare you suggest such a thing! 🤣😂. I have the 346V, the gears mesh perfectly. Even with the mysterious A2/MII "16" on the imperial thread chart! The issue is clearly between the 'on switch' and the 'floor'! 🤣😂😂
@@SpatialGuy77 I think I’ll stick with buying the AL 356V all the same. I did happen to catch up with Ted a little while back & he ended up swapping his 346V for a 356V recently and it turns really really well. Kind of sold me on the 356V
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G’day Ted. Nice work around mate. That pneumatic grinder sorted the wheat from the chaff 🤣. Cheers mate 🍻, Aaron
Hi Aaron lol yep air grinder came in handy, lol .. I finished of the 5mm key way with small files, so it turned out nice.
Thanks for your comment.
No no no. Stop Ted. There's a curved and slotted cast iron bracket in behind the the 120T and 127T gears. Loosen the bolt, slide along the slot and it will move the gear axis and enable enough space for the gears to mesh with no worries at all. As for the spacers and key etc behind the 48T gear, nothing needs to be changed at all, it's all perfect the way it is. Don't forget the fears in your toolbox too. Hope I'm not too late, cheers Michael 🇦🇺
Always appreciate comments The AL-346V is a good lathe, but It had a Spidle problem, & gave it back undrr Warranty.
I picked up an AL-356V 8" chucks 51mm spindle bore with D-5 six cam lock pins instead of 3. Bigger better lathe, hope that helps
With the actual shaft modification actual shaft slot was extended, because the spacer is moved front or rear of gear for ratio's, but in the factory, they should have had a full slot instead of a shortened slot, not allowing the space to be to rear of gear, slot & woodruff keys were wrong. Was modified, with ok from higher powers so to speak
@@TedRoza I have that machine too which is why I know that your modifications were unnecessary. You are not at all interested in accepting that you modified a perfectly good machine all because you failed to understand how to set up the gears. Pride or something, I don't know...personally I'd be happy and grateful to know. Everyone makes mistakes Ted Roza, you're compounding yours and making yourself look like an imbecile by trying to justify your efforts. They were 100% unnecessary! No one expects you to know everything about everything Ted Roza, you just got it all fcked up this time around. That's all. Go get someone to show you what to do. Cheers bloke, Michael 🇦🇺 ALSO - Woodruff keys are 'generally' used for light duty and keys on a taper. I'd be really really surprised if it wasn't square parallel key/keys you came across. BUT, I'm happy to be corrected...(unlike yourself, lol).
@@TedRoza Well don't screw that one up too !(excuse the pun) I bet the 346V is relieved to be out of your shed. Looks like you're a bit of a wrecker, lol. Keep taking them back, you'll have a Dashin by Christmas, 🤣😂😅
@@SpatialGuy77 ok .. so what is with all this Negativity. When you don't know the circumstances, & I look after my equipment, so an Apology is required. We are here to do a bit of machining or whatever, not go around trying to bully & Abuse People. Their warranty people had a look, & I modified the the shaft & did what was done under their suggestion,
Hi Ted, hello from NZ.
I see in the comments that you upgraded to a AL-356. I have the same lathe. Have you set the gears in that lathe to cut imperial threads? I need to do that to mine and just want to check that I'm following the manual correctly. As far as I see it is just a matter of changing the A gear from 30 to 40 teeth, and moving the B gear from the 120 teeth gear to the 127 teeth gear. If you have don't it, is that what you did?
G'day. I haven't changed to Imperial at this stage, will be in the near future on a couple of projects coming up.
Long as you realise, that you have to be very particular in using the gear settings exactly as stated, & that you start on for example numer 1 position on the dial Indicator, then engage the Half Nut at the appropriate time. Do Not disengage the Half Nut at anytime, when coming to the edge of the thread being cut. Unless you are quick enough to wind out compound so not to hit anything, then I would suggest apply footbrake which will stop the motor & either wind the chuck manually or quickly press the Jogger buttom to go to end of thread.
Then wind the cross slide out remembering your dialed in setting. Then in reverse go back to start position of thread ( do Not disengage half nut )
Go at least 10mm past the start position, dial in the new thread depth, select forward & repeat thread cutting again
Or you can hold the jog button in, & cut the thread that way
Hope this helps
A gear =40 teeth & stays on 120
B gear=40 teeth & goes on 127
Carfully check the thread setting on the front of the lathe not in the manual
Example 16 tpi lever 3 R + A C
With Half Nut Always Engaged
Hope this helps .. let me know how you go
@@TedRoza Thanks so much Ted, that is very helpful. I changed the gears today and everything went well. It is so much easier than older lathes where you have to change a bunch of gears.
What Imperial thread did you do
Gday Ted, you did a good job modifying the keyway, I like the look of the lathe, thanks for sharing mate, cheers
Hi Matty. Thanks for your comments. Lol my Nine inch grinder wouldn't fit in there lol. Glad your Dad liked the Engine You gave him 👍
Nice work there Ted... Nice looking lathe...
Thanks Paul for your comments.
Interesting - seeing as the Asian machines are sold all over the world I would be that machines under different name plates would need the same refit. Good to see you're doing well, cheers!
Hi Everett. These are made in Taiwan, better than the Chinese ones or so they say. Long as it helps at least one person, who might have had the same problem .
G'day Ted. I was wondering how you were going to fix the keyway, WELL the grinder was unexpected! Hope it worked out for you. Cheers Peter
Hi Peter .. lol I wasn't going to remove the shaft , so the next choice was file or Grinder with a thin disk, lol Air Grinder won out lol 😆 🤣 😂 I still finished with small files.
Also, give those installed gears a rub with an oily rag, they're getting that fine surface rust from the humidity. Too expensive and good a machine (apart from lacking power, but it is restricted by the single phase motor) to not keep it immaculate. Quick rub on all your gears they'll be good as new forever.
Hey, how do you find the spindle speed vs torque when using the digital speed controller? Any other issues with it so far?
Cheers again, Michael 🇦🇺
Why do i think you have missed something . Surely they can not have screwed that one up , or could they !!! Cheers Ted .
Will call you on the weekend, explain what we found & what was tried, before mods
Can’t help wondering if the Hafco AL 356V will have the same issue?
Might it not have been that you just flip the 127/120 gear over to avoid needing to make the spacer with longer woodruff key maybe? (Just guessing). 👍
G'day mate. Thanks for your comment. I think that each machine has it's own lock & spacer type. You will probably find the AL-356V is already modified with a full length key way. If Not it can easily be done. BTW I did this Mod. with the Permission from the Company where I purchased the Lathe. I told them what had to be done, of which they Agreed.
BTW If you flip the gears then the 24 tooth is in the wrong position, Hence different Ratios
@@TedRoza Thanks mate, I was wondering if it might affect warranty - so that answers that question. Thanks heaps.
Must get over when next we have a cool spell and have an eyeball of the AL346V 👍
Ian, how dare you suggest such a thing! 🤣😂. I have the 346V, the gears mesh perfectly. Even with the mysterious A2/MII "16" on the imperial thread chart! The issue is clearly between the 'on switch' and the 'floor'! 🤣😂😂
@@SpatialGuy77 I think I’ll stick with buying the AL 356V all the same. I did happen to catch up with Ted a little while back & he ended up swapping his 346V for a 356V recently and it turns really really well. Kind of sold me on the 356V