Hi Rob. I've been doing something similar on my lathe, using the tool post for milling, for some time. As my lathe is quite a bit smaller than yours, tool post gap is only about 15mm, I use a 25mm end mill rather than a fly cutter. Get great results. I also modified an angle plate so I can use it in place of the tool post for clamping work to. Cheers, Alan.
Hi Alan, it's handy to be able to do small milling. I have considered making an angle plate for the Sherline a few times, but never got around to it. Cheers Rob
I recently bought a South Bend 10l lathe in great shape, it needs more cleaning than anything. I've been looking for an original milling attachment but the prices are out of my budget. Using the toolholder has given me ideas, thanks for sharing this video.
Wow! That just amazed me. I was expecting the fly cutter would produce enough vibration to pull the job out of the tool post, but it didn't & the cut with both ends practically the same convinced me that nothing moved. Really fab technique to have in ones back pocket for when needed. Thanks for sharing!
Nice one Rob. You don't need much to get started making things flat, square and parallel. Bootstrapping a mill slide with just a standard lathe toolpost would be an interesting challenge. I too have started experimenting with sharpening tips. I use a green silicon carbide wheel (and a cheap little diamond card for honing). Tips are cheap, but putting a new edge on one only takes seconds, so why throw away that half-dollar for no reason. I think if you're light on the sharpening too, you could get more than one resharpening per tip. (A true cheapskate!) :-) Now - where's that beer? I'm working on my own clone of a xynudu pattern chip guard.
Hi Craig, I've done a lot of damaged carbide chip re-shaping over the years. I have a couple of green stone grinding wheels (fine and coarse) and also use a diamond cylinder burr at times to put on some tip relief. Works well. You don't know what's possible until you try. Carbide is so cheap nowadays, but it's still fun to experiment. Grinding a much larger radius, making it sharper, and putting on flat facets (as on the insert in the video) can make a big difference. Cheers Rob
Nice one, Rob My boring bar holders only use one grub screw, that way, as long as the hole in the holder isn't pissed, and there's no crap in here, your bar is gonna be straight. For squaring up with a fly cutter, touch off front and back (in case your cross slide is wonky, which can be the case on my Schaublin if there's a bit of crud stuck between the bed and the thingie that squares up the cross slide - you know what I mean) I wouldn't worry about boring bar size on your Schaublin, they can take some pretty heavy cuts for their size. Perfectly happy taking 1mm off radially in stainless on mine, I have been known to take off 2mm at a time. Did you get your chip guard from Banggood? I'm sure if you ask nicely they'd send you a new one.
Hi Michel, I've had that chip guard so long I can't remember where it can from. It's slowly been getting smaller over the years as bits break off. Almost time for a new one. Those chip guards don't come cheap and may be a bit out of BG's class ;) Cheers Rob
1. to make this fly cutter I guess I would need a milling machine? or can it be done on the lathe? 2. I need to face 3 inch x 1.5 inch x 0.5 inch aluminium bars my lathe will have 4 jaws chuck. can I face these aluminium blocks in the lathe using standard tool, by simply putting the material in the chuck? sorry for total newbie questions, I haven't used lathe before, but in couple of weeks, it should arrive, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can ahead of time.
I don't have a milling machine. It can be done on the lathe. Yes, you can face aluminium blocks on the lathe, but you will need a four jaw chuck to hold them. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu that's some good news! That fly cutter slanted slot seemed impossible to me to be made in the lathe. I'll have to learn how. Yes my lathe will come with 4 jaws so seems like I will get some use of my new machine Thanks for your reply!
Very cool. I wonder if removing the compound and attaching some kind of clamping holder in its place--maybe even a small machinist's vise--would provide even more stability? Now that I think of it, I'm surprised given your luck in the past that you haven't found a discarded-but-restorable bench mill along the side of the road!
@@Xynudu Dovetail cutters aren't hard to come by. Or make, when it comes down to it, either in tool steel for light work or using a 60° insert. Hell, you can even cut dovetails with a fly cutter if you're really careful and good at sharpening HSS.
Great video but isn't 1300 rpm pretty fast? Not sure what the cutting diameter was exactly but that looked at least twice as fast as I would be comfortable with.
The rotating mass is small compared to the spindle and collet holder. The only vibration is a small amount from the cutter action. Obviously you want to try and have equal cutter tool length radially on the same plane if possible. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob. I've been doing something similar on my lathe, using the tool post for milling, for some time. As my lathe is quite a bit smaller than yours, tool post gap is only about 15mm, I use a 25mm end mill rather than a fly cutter. Get great results. I also modified an angle plate so I can use it in place of the tool post for clamping work to. Cheers, Alan.
Hi Alan, it's handy to be able to do small milling. I have considered making an angle plate for the Sherline a few times, but never got around to it. Cheers Rob
I recently bought a South Bend 10l lathe in great shape, it needs more cleaning than anything. I've been looking for an original milling attachment but the prices are out of my budget. Using the toolholder has given me ideas, thanks for sharing this video.
Wow! That just amazed me. I was expecting the fly cutter would produce enough vibration to pull the job out of the tool post, but it didn't & the cut with both ends practically the same convinced me that nothing moved. Really fab technique to have in ones back pocket for when needed. Thanks for sharing!
I find it faster to indicate the part in a 4-jaw chuck and just take it down with normal lathe tooling.
Less virbration, less roatating mass etc.
True but he can cut a dove tail in the part that is in the tool holder.
All along I've figured that was an Australian accent but your well used chip shield suggest that you might be Scottish!
Thanks for the tip on the change gears, great video.
I am going to try to mill a tiny keyway on my setup when I feel better .. ENJOYED !!
What a brilliant idea...thanks for sharing
Glad you found it useful. Cheers Rob
Nice one Rob. You don't need much to get started making things flat, square and parallel. Bootstrapping a mill slide with just a standard lathe toolpost would be an interesting challenge.
I too have started experimenting with sharpening tips. I use a green silicon carbide wheel (and a cheap little diamond card for honing). Tips are cheap, but putting a new edge on one only takes seconds, so why throw away that half-dollar for no reason. I think if you're light on the sharpening too, you could get more than one resharpening per tip. (A true cheapskate!) :-)
Now - where's that beer? I'm working on my own clone of a xynudu pattern chip guard.
Hi Craig, I've done a lot of damaged carbide chip re-shaping over the years. I have a couple of green stone grinding wheels (fine and coarse) and also use a diamond cylinder burr at times to put on some tip relief. Works well. You don't know what's possible until you try. Carbide is so cheap nowadays, but it's still fun to experiment. Grinding a much larger radius, making it sharper, and putting on flat facets (as on the insert in the video) can make a big difference. Cheers Rob
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Nice one, Rob
My boring bar holders only use one grub screw, that way, as long as the hole in the holder isn't pissed, and there's no crap in here, your bar is gonna be straight.
For squaring up with a fly cutter, touch off front and back (in case your cross slide is wonky, which can be the case on my Schaublin if there's a bit of crud stuck between the bed and the thingie that squares up the cross slide - you know what I mean)
I wouldn't worry about boring bar size on your Schaublin, they can take some pretty heavy cuts for their size. Perfectly happy taking 1mm off radially in stainless on mine, I have been known to take off 2mm at a time.
Did you get your chip guard from Banggood? I'm sure if you ask nicely they'd send you a new one.
Hi Michel, I've had that chip guard so long I can't remember where it can from. It's slowly been getting smaller over the years as bits break off. Almost time for a new one. Those chip guards don't come cheap and may be a bit out of BG's class ;) Cheers Rob
great vid ,rusty fitter & turner here,this is great to jog my memory ,which beer was it from lol thats so me..
1. to make this fly cutter I guess I would need a milling machine? or can it be done on the lathe?
2. I need to face 3 inch x 1.5 inch x 0.5 inch aluminium bars
my lathe will have 4 jaws chuck.
can I face these aluminium blocks in the lathe using standard tool, by simply putting the material in the chuck?
sorry for total newbie questions, I haven't used lathe before, but in couple of weeks, it should arrive, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can ahead of time.
I don't have a milling machine. It can be done on the lathe. Yes, you can face aluminium blocks on the lathe, but you will need a four jaw chuck to hold them. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu that's some good news! That fly cutter slanted slot seemed impossible to me to be made in the lathe. I'll have to learn how.
Yes my lathe will come with 4 jaws so seems like I will get some use of my new machine
Thanks for your reply!
I enjoyed this video very much thanks
Hay Rob, You can use a cigarette paper for clearancing
This is why I like your channel so much. That and stuff like "Ratshit Finish". That's a real bloke talking to me.
Cheers Rob and Thanks.
Thanks Phil. The technical nazi's do spoil it for regular people. Cheers Rob
Very cool. I wonder if removing the compound and attaching some kind of clamping holder in its place--maybe even a small machinist's vise--would provide even more stability? Now that I think of it, I'm surprised given your luck in the past that you haven't found a discarded-but-restorable bench mill along the side of the road!
Still looking Todd. Maybe one day. It would have to be a dovetail column or I'm not interested. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Dovetail cutters aren't hard to come by. Or make, when it comes down to it, either in tool steel for light work or using a 60° insert. Hell, you can even cut dovetails with a fly cutter if you're really careful and good at sharpening HSS.
Gonna be a sad day when the old shield fails 😟 will we have a ceremonial cremation?
Glad you got a giggle yesterday mate 😁
It should burn pretty well with all that oil and cutting fluid Bill. Yes it will be sad. But I will just have to get through it. Cheers Rob
Maybe frame it instead... Eric at Hand Tool Rescue wins for the most flamable workshop item.😁
Thanks for sharing
I think it is easier to do turning on a mill than milling on a lathe
Lathes are designed to mill certain features. Only difference is the work spins instead of the cutter.
Your chip shield is like a car that has done 150k miles, you are into ‘payback time’!
What in Oz is considered the safe interval between emptying the beer carton and resuming work on the lathe?
That's not considered safe. You only have a beer AFTER machine work is finished for the day.
Great video but isn't 1300 rpm pretty fast? Not sure what the cutting diameter was exactly but that looked at least twice as fast as I would be comfortable with.
To get a clean finish you need to keep the speed up. The carbide handled it fine - as seen.
👍
Do you balance the cutter ?
No.
@@Xynudu does that affect the lathe ,motor ?
The rotating mass is small compared to the spindle and collet holder. The only vibration is a small amount from the cutter action. Obviously you want to try and have equal cutter tool length radially on the same plane if possible. Cheers Rob