I've got one of those drills, the older one from last year, there was also a slightly different version before that too, which had a lower capacity charger, and the battery was slightly different, the guide slots were in a different position, so you couldn't interchange the batteries. I've just bought the 4ah battery to go with my one too. They've definitely skimped on the circuitry in the new charger. Ive noticed with all Lidls power tools, that each time they have them back in stock again they change the designs very slightly.
I had a Westinghouse TV with the varistor issue. If you turned it OFF and immediately back on it Blew the Caps. I raised the value on the Cap Bleed Resistor as a fix. It worked.
I have 2 of these drills (older versions). I have been using one for the past 3 years for electronic assembly, I use it every day and it works exceedingly well for terminal screws as the torque on the lower settings is quite low. I would normally have to pay almost £300 for a low toque driver. On the older one the battery has polarization slots so you cannot use newer batteries, however if you simply cut them off of the battery then new batteries will still fit. (Just be careful when putting it in the charger). I have the newer one for a backup, but having seen the internals of Makita and Bosch drills, I would actually put the internals of this drill as an equivalent. The magnet for holding bits is pathetic and they keep falling out, but the damn thing has been going strong for so long :)
There's an 'A3' variant of this charger now out in Lidl. i've done a quick teardown; basically the same as the A2 but a different 8 pin control chip on the rear lower half; slightly wider LED's/board redesign etc. Fundamental components seem the same with the exception of an additional Yellow square 'Tenta' 0.1micro capacitor across the mains input, which appears described online as a 'safety capacitor', whatever that is. Clearly addressing something that was perhaps paired down too much in the A2 design? Edit- A3 variant manufactured in my case 06/2022 so not that new, & it's also not a fast charge variant.
I disagree, they do appear to be "Y" interference suppression capacitors in the traditional sense. The device "CY1" can be seen to span the isolation barrier. It's probably a low-value providing an RF path from the low-voltage side back to mains for EMC reasons. It's possible that CY1 goes to live and CY2 goes to neutral (or vice versa).
It looks like the current limiting is done on the primary side with 3 sense resistors in parallel, so you could lower the current by removing one so it doesn't get so hot. With just a little more work, the voltage feedback can be tweaked to lower it a little so the batteries age slower.
Did both modifications: remove R8 to reduce max charching current to 1.4A. Then parallel to R12 (which is 10k) another 100k. This reduces max voltage from 13V to 12V. So it is a slower half-charger. However, since charge termination is done in the battery, with this modification, it does not terminate the charge.
Julian, you should pick up one of Lidl's Parkside gas powered soldering iron/heat-gun/blow-torch.. it's excellent for the money, 16.99euro dont know what that is in English pounds!! you get a small bottle of gas with it but you can refill it with lighter gas.. it works great. ya get four tips. chisel,wedge, small pointed, & one weird looking thin tip. some solder wire a sponge and a scooped shape half cylinder for heat-shrink tubing for use with the heat-gun (which is why i got cause i had no heat-gun) Anyway if see one in Lidl's, its worth the cash!! cool video.. : ) P.S. the high voltage to low side clearance looked good on that compared to other shitty one's ya see, but that's down to our safety standards id say!! which our 3 pin wall plugs in England & Ireland prove are the best.. ; ) Edit: oh god i wrote the P.S. before i saw the end of the video with the older charger.. which is way better. but that's money saving, penny pinching for ya!!
Julian hello, quick question for you when, and if, you have the time. I did something silly a while ago and basically shaved the little strips of plastic on the batteries that sort of help with inserting the battery the right way in the slot. I shaved them because I used the batteries with a different drill. Anyhow, of course I went to charge one of these batteries and I inserted it inside my charger the wrong way, couldn't tell you exactly which wrong way because I immediately took it out of the charger but, that of course was long enough to have done some damage. Now the charger stays lit on green and won't charge dead batteries. I opened it up and I noticed only one thing that was suspicious. I should make a disclaimer that beyond soldering a couple things I don't really have much knoweledge of these things. But as I mentioned I did notice that the little strip of metal, for lack of better words, the one on the board inside the terminals is melted. By little strip I mean what looks like a straight piece of metal without coating that runs for just a couple millimeters more or less in the center of the board on the top side. Would you be able to advise me on this matter? Is there anything I can do to repair this charger? Is it a matter of resoldering the little strip so it makes contact again? I don't even know what that strip does but it sure looks melted on mine. I thank you in advance! All the best
I loved the video, however i do have a question .These chargers are ment for 220 AC. Is ist possible to modify it in the way that you could use a DC 12v car socket to charge the batteries?
Bonjour, Intéressant mais vous auriez pu compléter par le fait que la recharge s'effectue par un contact dédié sur la batterie et non, comme la plupart de ces batteries, par l'intermédiaire du plus et du moins. A suivre... Hello, Interesting but you could have added that the recharge is done through a dedicated contact on the battery and not, like most of these batteries, through the plus and minus. To be continued...
Nice video. 👍 Do you think it's possible to adapt the circuit to be able to bypass the hi voltage circuit and connect 12v from the car battery directly to the low voltage circuit? (I would love to be able to charge the Parkside batteries connected to the car..)
Hello! Is there a way to measure the actual voltage of the battery? I mean it would be nice to add a simple voltage meter to monitor the voltage while charging - to be able to stop the charging around 60% for storage.
Any chance on doing a review on the actual drill itself, like how many screws can it do with one charge, drilling test, how large of a screw can it handle (like a torque test), and so on....
I fried a charger (PLGK12A1 .. I think worse than PLGK12A2) .. I'm trying to repair it and I'm looking for the value of the resistors R8 R9 R10 (unreadable due to overheating) if you can help me .. thanks
Another issue is that the voltage on the mains plug has to drop quite fast so you can't get a shock when you unplug it and touch the pins. can't remember off hand what the time to drop to what voltage. Also can't think of what safety standard they would be referring to. have to look up the LVD directive and see what standard a tool power supply required to meet.
That could only come from the class X capacitor (if fitted) which is directly across the mains. The high voltage electrolytic is behind the bridge rectifier.
For grid tie solar inverters, it's 2 seconds from AC disconnect to less than 30V on the AC terminals. The DC side, if it supports rapid shutdown, has to go to less than 30V in 30 seconds. (Not sure what is is on the DC side without rapid shutdown, I think it's 5 minutes or something like that?) For devices in general, I think the requirement for safe discharge is set by the energy level, so the voltage would be lower for larger capacitors.
can you inject 12v DC from a car straight into the charger on the low voltage side to make an in vehicle charger? I've been trying to do it but cant work it out, I can measure 12v DC on the meter when connected to the mains, but I want to just solder some wires on the low voltage side, remove the mains cable completely and connect it to a vehicle, any idea where to solder to to still have the Lion chips active?
Hi Julian! I need your help with a Parkside 18 volt charger JHL-H150-18 (reciprocating saw). It outputs only 0.15 volt. Would you have a circuit diagram or help me diagnose the circuit? Thanks. (Sham)
just bought one of the 4ah packs to strip for the cells to use in my vape, i figured that if they are intended to be used in a power tool and also come with a 3 year warranty that they must be of at least reasonable quality. onc i got inside the cells were marked with parkside branding and not grizzly and the pcb is also very different to the 4Ah pack you opened. i found this test for the cells that are in the pack that i dismantled, it reckons that the cells are good for 20A: lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Parkside%20INR18650E%202000mAh%20(Blue)%20UK.html
@@AdamWelchUK Yes, that's another thing, you've got to be careful how you store those thermal transfer receipts, otherwise they can fade to nothing after a year or so! Best to keep them in a paper envelope, (not plastic) in a dark dry place. I suppose if it is a really expensive item you could make a photocopy or take a photo of said receipt.
hi i think you have mixed up NTC and PTC thermisters the idea in this kind of circuit is it starts at high resistance and drops to low resistance to stop in rush . A PTC starts low (5 ohm) and increases in value like in the degausing circuit used in colour tvs. so you right it is an NTC but your discription was wrong .nether the less a fasinating video..
The Battery is probably cheaper than you estimate on something like this. That said, that is a pretty basic and cheap looking charger unit. Thanks for the break down.
"Such is life, Cheerio" says Julian, seemingly totally unaware that the Australian Bushranger, Ned Kelly, is reputed to have stated "Such is life" just before he was hanged for his various crimes which included murder and attempted murder. Oh well... the only thing we learn from history is that we never learn from history. Such is life. ;)
It's a commonly used, and completely acceptable, phrase. There is no history to learn here other than that of Lidl proving another well-known phrase, "you get what you pay for"
I really doubt that LIDL and ALDI make any profit on these sorts of items. More likely than not they're just loss leaders. While you're getting a great deal on a $20 rechargeable drill kit, your wife is two aisles over filling the shopping cart with $150 worth of groceries.
Its the other way round, they make almost no money on the groceries, it's the centre aisle where they rake in their profits. All large supermarkets are moving into "non-food". Tesco in the UK makes the most profit per square foot of shop floor space from their clothing they are switching away from electricals as a result.
Of course we want to see the other charger tear down :P Why do you think we watch your content? Not because of your entertaining blabbering that for sure! /sarcasm
Oh no lol I got one it's like a toy with no power 😅😅😅😭😭 it like my first drill from Toby 😂 I like these cus they cheaper and 12v for lite work on table powered from a lead acid use that charger to charge it or solar main idea lol
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
I've got one of those drills, the older one from last year, there was also a slightly different version before that too, which had a lower capacity charger, and the battery was slightly different, the guide slots were in a different position, so you couldn't interchange the batteries.
I've just bought the 4ah battery to go with my one too. They've definitely skimped on the circuitry in the new charger.
Ive noticed with all Lidls power tools, that each time they have them back in stock again they change the designs very slightly.
I had a Westinghouse TV with the varistor issue. If you turned it OFF and immediately back on it Blew the Caps. I raised the value on the Cap Bleed Resistor as a fix. It worked.
Awesome - exactly the timing issue I was trying to describe :)
I have 2 of these drills (older versions).
I have been using one for the past 3 years for electronic assembly, I use it every day and it works exceedingly well for terminal screws as the torque on the lower settings is quite low.
I would normally have to pay almost £300 for a low toque driver.
On the older one the battery has polarization slots so you cannot use newer batteries, however if you simply cut them off of the battery then new batteries will still fit.
(Just be careful when putting it in the charger).
I have the newer one for a backup, but having seen the internals of Makita and Bosch drills, I would actually put the internals of this drill as an equivalent.
The magnet for holding bits is pathetic and they keep falling out, but the damn thing has been going strong for so long :)
Do you think this charger can be modified to be used at 12v-14v car socket?
The 20v charger version A1 can be modified for being used @ 12v !
There's an 'A3' variant of this charger now out in Lidl. i've done a quick teardown; basically the same as the A2 but a different 8 pin control chip on the rear lower half; slightly wider LED's/board redesign etc. Fundamental components seem the same with the exception of an additional Yellow square 'Tenta' 0.1micro capacitor across the mains input, which appears described online as a 'safety capacitor', whatever that is. Clearly addressing something that was perhaps paired down too much in the A2 design?
Edit- A3 variant manufactured in my case 06/2022 so not that new, & it's also not a fast charge variant.
the adhesive used in the older charger turns to acid over time destroying the electronics good to see the newer one uses silicone
I'm pretty sure the design life of that device is far shorter.
The blue items are actually transient voltage suppressors not capacitors. There is good isolation between mains and low voltage.
I disagree, they do appear to be "Y" interference suppression capacitors in the traditional sense. The device "CY1" can be seen to span the isolation barrier. It's probably a low-value providing an RF path from the low-voltage side back to mains for EMC reasons. It's possible that CY1 goes to live and CY2 goes to neutral (or vice versa).
It looks like the current limiting is done on the primary side with 3 sense resistors in parallel, so you could lower the current by removing one so it doesn't get so hot. With just a little more work, the voltage feedback can be tweaked to lower it a little so the batteries age slower.
Did both modifications: remove R8 to reduce max charching current to 1.4A. Then parallel to R12 (which is 10k) another 100k. This reduces max voltage from 13V to 12V. So it is a slower half-charger. However, since charge termination is done in the battery, with this modification, it does not terminate the charge.
Julian, you should pick up one of Lidl's Parkside gas powered soldering iron/heat-gun/blow-torch.. it's excellent for the money, 16.99euro dont know what that is in English pounds!! you get a small bottle of gas with it but you can refill it with lighter gas.. it works great. ya get four tips. chisel,wedge, small pointed, & one weird looking thin tip. some solder wire a sponge and a scooped shape half cylinder for heat-shrink tubing for use with the heat-gun (which is why i got cause i had no heat-gun) Anyway if see one in Lidl's, its worth the cash!! cool video.. : )
P.S. the high voltage to low side clearance looked good on that compared to other shitty one's ya see, but that's down to our safety standards id say!! which our 3 pin wall plugs in England & Ireland prove are the best.. ; )
Edit: oh god i wrote the P.S. before i saw the end of the video with the older charger.. which is way better. but that's money saving, penny pinching for ya!!
Julian hello, quick question for you when, and if, you have the time. I did something silly a while ago and basically shaved the little strips of plastic on the batteries that sort of help with inserting the battery the right way in the slot. I shaved them because I used the batteries with a different drill. Anyhow, of course I went to charge one of these batteries and I inserted it inside my charger the wrong way, couldn't tell you exactly which wrong way because I immediately took it out of the charger but, that of course was long enough to have done some damage. Now the charger stays lit on green and won't charge dead batteries. I opened it up and I noticed only one thing that was suspicious. I should make a disclaimer that beyond soldering a couple things I don't really have much knoweledge of these things. But as I mentioned I did notice that the little strip of metal, for lack of better words, the one on the board inside the terminals is melted. By little strip I mean what looks like a straight piece of metal without coating that runs for just a couple millimeters more or less in the center of the board on the top side. Would you be able to advise me on this matter? Is there anything I can do to repair this charger? Is it a matter of resoldering the little strip so it makes contact again? I don't even know what that strip does but it sure looks melted on mine. I thank you in advance! All the best
I loved the video, however i do have a question .These chargers are ment for 220 AC. Is ist possible to modify it in the way that you could use a DC 12v car socket to charge the batteries?
came here for exactly this :)
Bonjour,
Intéressant mais vous auriez pu compléter par le fait que la recharge s'effectue par un contact dédié sur la batterie et non, comme la plupart de ces batteries, par l'intermédiaire du plus et du moins. A suivre...
Hello,
Interesting but you could have added that the recharge is done through a dedicated contact on the battery and not, like most of these batteries, through the plus and minus. To be continued...
Nice video. 👍 Do you think it's possible to adapt the circuit to be able to bypass the hi voltage circuit and connect 12v from the car battery directly to the low voltage circuit?
(I would love to be able to charge the Parkside batteries connected to the car..)
Hello!
Is there a way to measure the actual voltage of the battery? I mean it would be nice to add a simple voltage meter to monitor the voltage while charging - to be able to stop the charging around 60% for storage.
Emmmmm Liking the removable Chuck thing.
Any chance on doing a review on the actual drill itself, like how many screws can it do with one charge, drilling test, how large of a screw can it handle (like a torque test), and so on....
You're thinking about buying one from Lidl on thursday?
Great teardown! Wonder if you have enough space to fit a small fan? Would love to see the duel charger if you have time to post.
Thanks - dual charger review/stripdown coming soon :)
The jumper wire is actually a fuse. Pain in the rear.
PLGK12A1 is better like PLGK12A2 ???
I fried a charger (PLGK12A1 .. I think worse than PLGK12A2) .. I'm trying to repair it and I'm looking for the value of the resistors R8 R9 R10 (unreadable due to overheating)
if you can help me .. thanks
I have the first one shown.
It doesnt charge anymore.
What could be the issue and what to check?
Another issue is that the voltage on the mains plug has to drop quite fast so you can't get a shock when you unplug it and touch the pins. can't remember off hand what the time to drop to what voltage. Also can't think of what safety standard they would be referring to. have to look up the LVD directive and see what standard a tool power supply required to meet.
That could only come from the class X capacitor (if fitted) which is directly across the mains. The high voltage electrolytic is behind the bridge rectifier.
For grid tie solar inverters, it's 2 seconds from AC disconnect to less than 30V on the AC terminals. The DC side, if it supports rapid shutdown, has to go to less than 30V in 30 seconds. (Not sure what is is on the DC side without rapid shutdown, I think it's 5 minutes or something like that?)
For devices in general, I think the requirement for safe discharge is set by the energy level, so the voltage would be lower for larger capacitors.
can you inject 12v DC from a car straight into the charger on the low voltage side to make an in vehicle charger? I've been trying to do it but cant work it out, I can measure 12v DC on the meter when connected to the mains, but I want to just solder some wires on the low voltage side, remove the mains cable completely and connect it to a vehicle, any idea where to solder to to still have the Lion chips active?
10:07 so this capacitor certainly has no bleed-off resistor so you can get a nasty sting :)
4:04, could you, please, give volume of three parallel connected resistors which connect minus of the rectifier with source of the transistor??
Doesn’t the mains cap discharge in a matter of a couple of seconds? How fast is the cool down on the NTC?
Hi Julian!
I need your help with a Parkside 18 volt charger JHL-H150-18 (reciprocating saw). It outputs only 0.15 volt. Would you have a circuit diagram or help me diagnose the circuit? Thanks. (Sham)
just bought one of the 4ah packs to strip for the cells to use in my vape, i figured that if they are intended to be used in a power tool and also come with a 3 year warranty that they must be of at least reasonable quality.
onc i got inside the cells were marked with parkside branding and not grizzly and the pcb is also very different to the 4Ah pack you opened.
i found this test for the cells that are in the pack that i dismantled, it reckons that the cells are good for 20A: lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Parkside%20INR18650E%202000mAh%20(Blue)%20UK.html
Follow up: ive been using those cells in my vape for a while now and they are performing well :)
Julian, overall what do you think of the Parkside tools?
I think they're great for the occasional DIYer. They may not last for decades, but they're cheap and they get the job done.
Julian Ilett and if they break within two years you’ll get your money back at the till :-)
@@AdamWelchUK 3 year warranty on most of their own brand tools, just make sure you keep the receipts safe.
NOW, That's Richy. Three year not two? Even better. Let’s hope the thermally printed receipt lasts that long!
@@AdamWelchUK Yes, that's another thing, you've got to be careful how you store those thermal transfer receipts, otherwise they can fade to nothing after a year or so!
Best to keep them in a paper envelope, (not plastic) in a dark dry place.
I suppose if it is a really expensive item you could make a photocopy or take a photo of said receipt.
hi i think you have mixed up NTC and PTC thermisters the idea in this kind of circuit is it starts at high resistance and drops to low resistance to stop in rush . A PTC starts low (5 ohm) and increases in value like in the degausing circuit used in colour tvs. so you right it is an NTC but your discription was wrong .nether the less a fasinating video..
I can't see anything wrong with Juiian's description, he said pretty much exactly what you wrote.
8:35 they keep skimping eh Julian :)
its "optimising"...skimping is what their competition do :)
The 2ah 12v battery is £7.99
Awesome, thanks :)
The Battery is probably cheaper than you estimate on something like this.
That said, that is a pretty basic and cheap looking charger unit.
Thanks for the break down.
RIP headphones so many times
They are fine. Your ears, though... :-)
Almost every product in aldi & lidl has been getting cut down over the last few years, even their clothes are worse quality but the same price
4:20 inductor? Isn't it a transformer?
isn't a transformer, 2 inductors?
It's a coupled inductor which is a sort of a transformer but is used in a different mode.
Wow, that really has been cut down!
They didn't have any duel chargers last time visited :(
"Such is life, Cheerio" says Julian, seemingly totally unaware that the Australian Bushranger, Ned Kelly, is reputed to have stated "Such is life" just before he was hanged for his various crimes which included murder and attempted murder.
Oh well... the only thing we learn from history is that we never learn from history. Such is life. ;)
It's a commonly used, and completely acceptable, phrase. There is no history to learn here other than that of Lidl proving another well-known phrase, "you get what you pay for"
...... "Such is Life', without a Wife, (and a thousand times worse with one).
Ej listen j reverse polarity on this charger and wont charge they say red lamp charge and have 13.4v but butery never charging where is problem
I really doubt that LIDL and ALDI make any profit on these sorts of items. More likely than not they're just loss leaders. While you're getting a great deal on a $20 rechargeable drill kit, your wife is two aisles over filling the shopping cart with $150 worth of groceries.
Its the other way round, they make almost no money on the groceries, it's the centre aisle where they rake in their profits. All large supermarkets are moving into "non-food". Tesco in the UK makes the most profit per square foot of shop floor space from their clothing they are switching away from electricals as a result.
are these really made in germany? i highly doubt it.
Branded, marketed, maybe even designed in Germany. Almost certainly manufactured in PRC.
@@JulianIlett The country of manufacturer is never stated on the products.
The drill will be noisier with the 4ah battery fitted and be more powerful
Of course we want to see the other charger tear down :P Why do you think we watch your content? Not because of your entertaining blabbering that for sure! /sarcasm
Excellent - I'll do it :)
As they say, cheap as chips.
Noise who cares? that noisy one is more powerful I'll bet
Absolutely not, noise does not mean power. My Makitas are about 40% the noise and quite a lot powerful..
Oh no lol I got one it's like a toy with no power 😅😅😅😭😭 it like my first drill from Toby 😂 I like these cus they cheaper and 12v for lite work on table powered from a lead acid use that charger to charge it or solar main idea lol