My component tester is one of my most used tools. Mine is the quite common yellow one which I’m sure you have. They are brilliant for sorting out the plastic boxes of diodes etc that get mixed up in the post. They also give more basic information that I put on the dinner money envelopes I keep components in. As a newbie that info is invaluable.
Great job and excellent job at teaching. I can tell you are a pro by the way you soldered the device. I have watched other people build things on the net and I just cringed at their technique. You the man as the saying goes.
First of all thank you for your entertaining and informative channel. I feel compelled to build the components tester. I just wondered if the surface component tester worked ok. Thanks
I love these "make it" videos. Could you possibly add the link to where you purchased the kit you are making in case we want to have a go ourselves? Thanks.
Nice video, I'm waiting for one of these, looks fun. General advice with electronics kits is to start with the smallest/lowest components first, and work your way up to the tallest and bulkiest ones last; it makes placing and soldering much easier. Not putting the IC lock-socket in at the beginning was a good call; if you had you'd have been muttering about it later ;-)
I've watched a transistor tester with no transistors being tested.... Could you please tell me if it indicates transistor leakage? I need this function to test germanium transistors. Regards
Great video thank you . Do you recommend this for a beginner in DIY hobby electronic. Do you have any suggestion on what would be a good starting project if not this one?
If you want to make your life extra easy as a beginner, look for kits with a single sided board, double sided boards, or ones with through hole plating like this are a tad harder to solder well & considerably harder to remove components from to correct any errors you may make. That said, this wouldn't be a bad choice as a beginner project, hot tip though, start with the small (lowest) components & work up to the taller ones, it's easier to keep the components in place while you solder them them.
Search ebay / alliexpress / banggood for "pocket oscilloscope". The one I have is pretty good for starters, although very limited once you get into higher frequencies (200KHz+). It's not a scratch on a proper real bench scope, but if you want to look at simple signals without the investment cost of a real scope, it's a great place to start.
listen adam i truely love your videos and they have made me learn alot.do you at all host private help on topics as im still a beginner and learning it has only been 4 or 5 years off and on but have learned more on your videos than exspected.keep up the great work..thanks adam for being there for so many people
A GOOD way to assemble these kits is.. to install the smaller components first.. I had trouble putting the Wave Form Signal Generator.. I found the Small Caps to be out of tolerance.. AND.. it's a double sided PC Board..
What is the maximum reverse voltage it can detect for zener diodes? I see some testers like TC1 and T7 are advertised as high as 30v can be detected. Can this kit detect those zeners?
I got one of these, put it together OK, and it works, sort of. Keeps saying 'weak battery 5.6v', even though batteries are brand new, on DC 7.5-12v its same error 'weak battery 5.6v'? It's like its not getting correct voltage. Screen is a little dim also, but probably due to the max 5.6v problem. Any ideas guys?
Might have used the wrong resistor pair for the ones that divide down the battery voltage. Or you got a short somewhere. Anything feeling hot to the touch?
It shouldn't be. Accuracy is more dependent on resistance and capacitance throughout all of the circuitry, which will be accounted for when you run the calibration procedure at first startup. Note that any test leads you connect to the socket will add significant capacitance because these things are that sensitive, which is great. If you calibrate the meter using whatever test leads you're attaching to measure things, their capacitance will be worked into the units calibration. Use short leads if the socket doesn't cut the butter, and calibrate for any leads you add to the test circuit. Steve
I'm still running the firmware that came with my kit, version 1.12k as listed under the "Show data" option. Is there a specific version that is best for running on these things? I really can't complain about this device in it's factory configuration. Currently, it serves as a poor man's LCR for me, but most specifically, a poor man's capacitance meter. It has a much better range, up to 100 millifarad, than my crappy HoldPeak HP-4070L, and reads ESR values within ranges I'd expect, although I have little to compare ESR values. As for resistance, while it's spot on within all the ranges I've tested with 1% resistors, I still defer to my regular multimeter which agreed in all the same ranges. As for inductance, it agree's with my crappy HoldPeak LCR in all ranges, but gives me one more digit of precision in the mH range, so I can't complain there either. I don't use any of the signal generator/pulse width modulation, IR decoder/encoder functions, or voltage measurement. I have a function generator that does so much more, I decode IR using a sensor on a serial bus and LIRC, and frankly, I'd be afraid to put a live voltage on the inputs of this thing because I use it so frequently I don't want to blow it up! :) As far as these crappy little DIY chinese kit's go, this device is the most useful thing I've put together out of such a kit. I suppose, really, I would consider updating the firmware if only different firmware did something better for me, withing the scope of my use of this device. I don't recall seeing a serial header on this thing when I assembled it, and unless it's under the display... too lazy to take it out of it's case.. Come to think of it, I'm probably too lazy to investigate further since it does what I need it to do. :) If I need a dedicated setup for rewriting the IC outside it's current working environment, it is highly unlikely I'll upgrade the firmware... I suppose I'd still be interested in the process if you care to post. Thanks in advance, Steve
A little long of a video but cool. Mine came out fine but having issues with calibration. Everytime I turn it on it askes again to calibrate. Just got it so still trying to figure out how to use the menu.
Yeah I never managed to calibrate mine. I've tried a couple of times. Even uncalibrated though, it's more or less on the mark for most components. It's only got to be roughly accurate for identification / confidence test. For precision testing you'd want a proper multimeter/LCR meter.
Товарищу ни кто не подсказал, что после припайки всех компонентов необходимо смыть флюс. Может где-то это и не так важно, а в измерительных приборах, это ощутимо добавляет погрешности. И после включения устройство написало, что оно не откалибровано... но он оставил это без внимания. По меньше б говорил, а по больше бы по делу.
My one doesn't work :( Draws 0.375 A while encoder pressed and 7550a regulator gets hot. Replaced it, same thing. Double, triple checked all components position and all is correct. Don't know what I'm missing.
I put together this little tester. When pressing the dial in, it would turn on and off right away and the LED wouldn't light. I traced and found that the LED was installed the wrong way. Once I flipped the LED around, it worked fine. Hope this helps someone else.
Привет. На 26-40 резистор 220 ом паять НЕ НУЖНО. Вместо него нужно поставить ПЕРЕМЫЧКУ. Это резистор питания подсветки экрана и он уже есть на плате экрана а это последовательныц ВТОРОЙ резистор. В итоге получится 440 ом что много для подсветки. Если резистор не впаивать то экран будет светится ярче..
Read my replay above, but if you do not know how to solder extremely small SMD's, do not get the kit I purchased, but the second kit that is assembled.
My component tester is one of my most used tools. Mine is the quite common yellow one which I’m sure you have. They are brilliant for sorting out the plastic boxes of diodes etc that get mixed up in the post. They also give more basic information that I put on the dinner money envelopes I keep components in. As a newbie that info is invaluable.
I have the same tester. It's been sitting in my drawer for awhile and I think I'm ready. I watched a couple of videos on this kit, yours was better.
Great job and excellent job at teaching. I can tell you are a pro by the way you soldered the device. I have watched other people build things on the net and I just cringed at their technique. You the man as the saying goes.
This is one I've been looking at for my first kit build. I think I can now :) Woohoo!
Once you stopped honking like a goose the build and video went well. Thanks ill order one for myself.
57:30 The about 440 Hz numbers correspond with the A music note used for tuning musical instruments.
There are so many videos around about these awsome machines...
We have a potential niche market for component tester testers now.
First of all thank you for your entertaining and informative channel. I feel compelled to build the components tester. I just wondered if the surface component tester worked ok. Thanks
can you make a playlist for LBE?
I love these "make it" videos. Could you possibly add the link to where you purchased the kit you are making in case we want to have a go ourselves? Thanks.
18:43 is a 100tb 2cpu NAS enough ? probably :D
Thanks, Nice video... I just got a SMD Pre-Assembled tester...
Thanks for the PWM & Frequency testing details...
Great Video! Very entertaining while being informative.
Nice video, I'm waiting for one of these, looks fun.
General advice with electronics kits is to start with the smallest/lowest components first, and work your way up to the tallest and bulkiest ones last; it makes placing and soldering much easier. Not putting the IC lock-socket in at the beginning was a good call; if you had you'd have been muttering about it later ;-)
Hey dear I want to purchase this Transistors Tester. Can you please give me the purchase link.
Could you tell me what is the difference between the GM328 and GM328A versions?
I've watched a transistor tester with no transistors being tested.... Could you please tell me if it indicates transistor leakage? I need this function to test germanium transistors.
Regards
S9012 was missing from my kit ! Used a BC547B. General purpose transistor. No problem.
These are brilliant. The ESR reads in circuit very well. Caps discharged first of course. Otherwise they read by smoke signal.
Cool I just got one thank u for showing me how to put it together.
Great video thank you . Do you recommend this for a beginner in DIY hobby electronic. Do you have any suggestion on what would be a good starting project if not this one?
If you want to make your life extra easy as a beginner, look for kits with a single sided board, double sided boards, or ones with through hole plating like this are a tad harder to solder well & considerably harder to remove components from to correct any errors you may make.
That said, this wouldn't be a bad choice as a beginner project, hot tip though, start with the small (lowest) components & work up to the taller ones, it's easier to keep the components in place while you solder them them.
Thank you for taking the time to answer my question
Where did you get the pocket O scope?
Search ebay / alliexpress / banggood for "pocket oscilloscope". The one I have is pretty good for starters, although very limited once you get into higher frequencies (200KHz+). It's not a scratch on a proper real bench scope, but if you want to look at simple signals without the investment cost of a real scope, it's a great place to start.
what is the track title of your opening song ?
listen adam i truely love your videos and they have made me learn alot.do you at all host private help on topics as im still a beginner and learning it has only been 4 or 5 years off and on but have learned more on your videos than exspected.keep up the great work..thanks adam for being there for so many people
what kind of camera you using on the circuit board?
A GOOD way to assemble these kits is.. to install the smaller components first.. I had trouble putting the Wave Form Signal Generator.. I found the Small Caps to be out of tolerance.. AND.. it's a double sided PC Board..
Please i need software this transistor tester, i have miniprog recorder
where did you get the scope from thanks
Nice little channel you have here. I think I'll stick around.
What is the maximum reverse voltage it can detect for zener diodes? I see some testers like TC1 and T7 are advertised as high as 30v can be detected. Can this kit detect those zeners?
I got one of these, put it together OK, and it works, sort of. Keeps saying 'weak battery 5.6v', even though batteries are brand new, on DC 7.5-12v its same error 'weak battery 5.6v'? It's like its not getting correct voltage. Screen is a little dim also, but probably due to the max 5.6v problem. Any ideas guys?
Might have used the wrong resistor pair for the ones that divide down the battery voltage. Or you got a short somewhere. Anything feeling hot to the touch?
Will it be more accurate if we solder the IC directly without socket?
It shouldn't be. Accuracy is more dependent on resistance and capacitance throughout all of the circuitry, which will be accounted for when you run the calibration procedure at first startup.
Note that any test leads you connect to the socket will add significant capacitance because these things are that sensitive, which is great. If you calibrate the meter using whatever test leads you're attaching to measure things, their capacitance will be worked into the units calibration. Use short leads if the socket doesn't cut the butter, and calibrate for any leads you add to the test circuit.
Steve
Some of the firmwares out there for these testers are better than others, so it is worth looking for a good one.
I'm still running the firmware that came with my kit, version 1.12k as listed under the "Show data" option. Is there a specific version that is best for running on these things?
I really can't complain about this device in it's factory configuration. Currently, it serves as a poor man's LCR for me, but most specifically, a poor man's capacitance meter. It has a much better range, up to 100 millifarad, than my crappy HoldPeak HP-4070L, and reads ESR values within ranges I'd expect, although I have little to compare ESR values.
As for resistance, while it's spot on within all the ranges I've tested with 1% resistors, I still defer to my regular multimeter which agreed in all the same ranges.
As for inductance, it agree's with my crappy HoldPeak LCR in all ranges, but gives me one more digit of precision in the mH range, so I can't complain there either.
I don't use any of the signal generator/pulse width modulation, IR decoder/encoder functions, or voltage measurement. I have a function generator that does so much more, I decode IR using a sensor on a serial bus and LIRC, and frankly, I'd be afraid to put a live voltage on the inputs of this thing because I use it so frequently I don't want to blow it up! :)
As far as these crappy little DIY chinese kit's go, this device is the most useful thing I've put together out of such a kit.
I suppose, really, I would consider updating the firmware if only different firmware did something better for me, withing the scope of my use of this device. I don't recall seeing a serial header on this thing when I assembled it, and unless it's under the display... too lazy to take it out of it's case.. Come to think of it, I'm probably too lazy to investigate further since it does what I need it to do. :) If I need a dedicated setup for rewriting the IC outside it's current working environment, it is highly unlikely I'll upgrade the firmware...
I suppose I'd still be interested in the process if you care to post.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
A little long of a video but cool. Mine came out fine but having issues with calibration. Everytime I turn it on it askes again to calibrate. Just got it so still trying to figure out how to use the menu.
Yeah I never managed to calibrate mine. I've tried a couple of times. Even uncalibrated though, it's more or less on the mark for most components. It's only got to be roughly accurate for identification / confidence test. For precision testing you'd want a proper multimeter/LCR meter.
otima aula parabéns e abraço
Amazing!
Товарищу ни кто не подсказал, что после припайки всех компонентов необходимо смыть флюс. Может где-то это и не так важно, а в измерительных приборах, это ощутимо добавляет погрешности. И после включения устройство написало, что оно не откалибровано... но он оставил это без внимания. По меньше б говорил, а по больше бы по делу.
My one doesn't work :( Draws 0.375 A while encoder pressed and 7550a regulator gets hot. Replaced it, same thing. Double, triple checked all components position and all is correct. Don't know what I'm missing.
@@Adamant_IT And I will :P But no damn little simple board will beat me! Looks like there is a short somewhere on the PCB.
shorted board alright:
imgur.com/a/7Uyt8QM
Thanks for sharing. If I'd check the board before assembly, oh well it's working now. Thanks.
thanks you
I put together this little tester. When pressing the dial in, it would turn on and off right away and the LED wouldn't light. I traced and found that the LED was installed the wrong way. Once I flipped the LED around, it worked fine. Hope this helps someone else.
Привет.
На 26-40 резистор 220 ом паять НЕ НУЖНО.
Вместо него нужно поставить ПЕРЕМЫЧКУ.
Это резистор питания подсветки экрана и он уже есть на плате экрана а это последовательныц ВТОРОЙ резистор. В итоге получится 440 ом что много для подсветки.
Если резистор не впаивать то экран будет светится ярче..
I will look into this! The screen is annoyingly dim, so anything to improve the brightness would be great!
Does somebody have a stl file to 3d print a case for this tester?
thingiverse.com has it
that's what she said at 46:13
not enough coffee yet.
wheir can you get this kit !!!!!!!!!
Read my replay above, but if you do not know how to solder extremely small SMD's, do not get the kit I purchased, but the second kit that is assembled.
btw, its not your cheap multimeter. the resistors are just ass lol
The male connector was to big said the actress to the bishop 😂
George. UNSUBSCRIBE :D
I NOT SUBSCRIBE OR THUMBS OR OR DOWN CLEAN UP THE BAD LANGUAGE TEACHERS CAN'T DO IT GROW UP !!!!!!!!!!
Hahahaahha. Tit.