Honestly, when you showed us the inside of this one, I figured it wasn't worth saving, but you made an excellent opportunity out of it to show us the functions and inner workings of the unit. Thanks for taking the time.
Nice old Crosley refrigerator. Always read about a hot wire relay; first to see one up close, operated and explained. looks to be a natural draft condenser and evaporator. Thanks for video
Thank you. Much appreciated! I do this as a hobby and consider it very important that people get a good value for whatever they pay. Out of all the fridges I've fixed up and sold, only one has had to be bought back; and it was likely due to a power quality issue.
The demo you gave of how to find the common, run, and start pins on the motor was super useful to me. I'd always been confused by that in the past. It's neat how you can hear the sound in the evaporator change as the system ran, and it started building more liquid.
Glad that was helpful! That has saved many units which had been given up on due to confusion and mis-wiring. The flooded evaporator systems always have an interesting sound to them!
I have a crosley that worked great and it's in excellent shape. One day it just stopped. I tried a jumper starter and still nothing. Great video thank you
Sorry to hear about your Crosley! Not sure what you mean by a "jumper starter" but if you applied power directly to the compressor terminals and it did not run, that is a bad sign. Normally if it stops working and gives no signs of life at all; the problem would be the start-relay or the thermostat.
Thanks for the part of identifying the compressor terminals. Start and run in series was 9.7 ohms leaving the third right hand as common. Then common to run was 3.6 ohms and common to start 6.1 ohms. Very good teaching lesson.
Just picked up the aussie Kirby built version of this fridge, James N Kirby was a major aussie fridge manufacturer, they made a round rotofridge which is highly sought after
Hello there. Ptc relay. I think I just burned up my original hot wire relay. Can you give a link to the ptc relay you mentioned that you would use? Thank you
For the small horsepower compressors like the 1/8 HP in this unit - use a Supco RO81. Don't order from any cheap overseas sites as fakes abound. Go to a local supply house or order from a reputable industrial place like Zoro dot com.
@davida1hiwaaynet thank you for the information!! I love my old beer and pizza basement fridge. I hope this will be the answer for replacing the HOT WIRE Relay.
Feeling a little defeated. I just restored this very fridge with this very issue. I got it all back, but the wiring was so bad… long story short, I have a couple wires unidentified, and I have lost my light! Which was fine before I pulled the relay. Is there a chance you could tell Me which two wires are the light and:or why they connect to ? (Ie- hot and common, or just the two main power ins?
@@davida1hiwaaynet thanks… I got it mostly working now, but it just gets colder and colder. I think The thermostat isn’t hooked up correctly…. I don’t see your email, but I have requested contact through Facebook? Hope to reach you soon… pretty easy question now I think? Thanks for the videos!!!
Yeah; it does! Planning to wash it, clearcoat the exterior to preserve it; and then clean and rust-treat the area under the cabinet for preservation reasons. This look, with the rust and patina on the cabinet, seems to be popular now.
I do not know for certain, but I would not be surprised if the "hot wire" inside of the relay was just a common nichrome wire working in much the same way a Sunbeam radiant control toaster does.
Wow, awesome the system is still intact and sealed. Even if it sprang a leak now, at least you know it hasn’t been open to moisture for years. How about a trip through the ultrasonic for that relay? Seems it might be salvageable.
There's a chance it could be salvageable, but I have found out that in the interest of ensuring the safe and long-term reliability of the compressor, it's best to go with a different type relay. The hotwire relays were good for their day, but they are very sensitive to ambient temperature and voltage variations. They often re-cycle the start winding several times during startup, when voltage or temperature is low, and sometimes the overload trips and won't reset until the relay is "tapped" by hand. I think the technology is amazing that it works at all, but I would rather have the peace of mind from a more robust design.
last month i defrosted my 1947 or 48 crosley shelvador (no sharp objects , but i did use 2 vintage electric defrosters , got distracted , and evaporator got hot) . plugged fridge in and went to bed . morning found house breaker tripped and oil on the floor , probably locked compressor . leak is somewhere between inner and outer cabinet , probably near evaporator . could i have gotten it hot enough to melt factory (soldered?) connections ? fridge was beautiful inside , porcelain , glass (even the full width freezer door) , aluminum , and chrome . i plan on trying to find the leak , and even though i'd be willing to spend nearly the price of a new 18 ft fridge , probably no one in my area can/will replace the compressor . but i still haven't completely given up hope . if i use compressed air at compressor charge port to find leak , will the air cause corrosion damage internally ? thanks .
In general, all of them from that era are good. GE and Frigidaire would be most likely to be easily fixable. Other brands may have more confusing wiring setups.
I have a 1950's GE that ran good before a flood...trying to trouble shoot it. Which 3 in 1 type starter are you using in your test set up and which 3 in 1 is best for these vintage fridges?
Hi Neil. I don't normally recommend any capacitor type start device, unless the unit came with a capacitor from the factory. The device I am using for this test in the video is a Supco RO81. It is an overload circuit breaker, with a PTC timer start device. It's a very oversimplified device, and has its limitations. But it is reliable and allows easy testing. Search any supplier such as supplyhouse.com or even eBay for Supco RO81. They make several sizes. The RO81 is for 1/12 up too 1/5 HP 115V units. The RO41 is for 1/4 and 1/3 HP units. The difference is the trip point for the overload breaker. The water probably got into the start relay on yours. Hopefully it didn't get into the overload breaker. If the entire relay is submerged in water while the power is on, the water will prevent heat from building up and allowing the breaker to trip, and allowing the start relay to cycle off. This usually results in a compressor burnout. If the power was not on during the incident when it was flooded, it likely just has rusted up the relay and changing that part will fix the fridge.
I’m having that issue to where I unplugged it to defrost water got into the relay and rusted it can’t seem to find a alternative and I see that you say a 3in1 isn’t recommended that’s the route I was headed glad I came across this video lol please help
Hi I have a 1950 Frigidaire refrigerator. The original relay went bad. I bought the new solid state replacement one. I hooked it up but didn't do it correctly and the fridge just keeps running and getting colder and colder. I have the wiring schematic but cant figure out what I did wrong. Can't turn it off unless I put the plug. Can you help me?
Hi new to the channel amd love the content. I have what I believe is this same refrigerator. The wires going up into the sidewall of the fridge are very brittle. I want to rewire but am unsure how to disassemble if this is even possible. Does anyone have information on how to take the front apart of course without destroying it? Thanks.
Very nice model. i have a question for you. i have an Roy old fridge (i thinks it' a 1954) that work nice but some time the compressor won't restart after reaching its temperature. when he does this problem, I give him some smooth smack and he restart. can you help me with this issue if you have seen this before? thank you in advance :)
@@rickeykeeton4770 I always use Ranco / Robertshaw replacement thermostats. I'm not at home at the moment, but can look up the part number for the last one I ordered. It will fit in the original location, but mounting taba and knob attachment may have to be adapted.
@@davida1hiwaaynet I cleaned the thermostat and the hot wire relay contact and now it run like a charm! thank again David. The relay was exactly the same as your but it's a 1953.
I think it's actually a Crosley design. I read in a rebuilding hermetic units book (a while back) about it. Will see if I can find that info again and share!
Friend of mine has one very similar to this one. He says he can hit or kick it a little and it starts back up. We are thinking that relay or loose connection somewhere. I did tell him the temp control might be at fault. Comment?
@@davida1hiwaaynet The relay on his is the very same one shown in the video according to the part number on it. What relay replaces those? I talked to him again today. He told me he messing with the temp control had no effect. It is only when he taps the relay. Btw, I did tell him to place a meat thermometer in it to check temp after it runs for a while. I like to let them run several hours, if not overnight, when I check temps. As I am sure you know, it is hard to come to a definite conclusion without actually being there with it.
@@rickeykeeton4770 it is definitely hard when you are not on site. That relay, The hot wire relay, is replaced by a Supco RO81 relay overload device. You can probably get that locally at an HVAC supply place, or order it online. You will have to study the wiring on the original relay to know where to connect the Supco relay. It functionally will replace the hot wire relay, however, it is not a point for point wiring exchange, because the Supco relay is a universal part.
@@davida1hiwaaynet So, I can’t just put neutral to Common and the hots to Run and Start? I usually use ohm meter to determine Common, Run, and Start at the compressor then connect accordingly. Thanks for the quick responses.
@@rickeykeeton4770 If you connect neutral to common, and hot to run and start, the compressor might run. But if you leave it like that more than 5 or 10 seconds you will destroy the compressor. I think your friend who owns this fridge reached out to me on Facebook. I explained to him that he needs RO81 start device. That will take the place of the original delco hotwire relay.
Honestly, when you showed us the inside of this one, I figured it wasn't worth saving, but you made an excellent opportunity out of it to show us the functions and inner workings of the unit. Thanks for taking the time.
Amazing it still runs and cools after years of not running and sitting outside! If only they built them like this nowadays.........
if you'll find a brand new fridge of this size without any bells and whistles for $3700 it will be pretty durable as well.
Nice old Crosley refrigerator. Always read about a hot wire relay; first to see one up close, operated and explained. looks to be a natural draft condenser and evaporator. Thanks for video
@24.00 that’s just one of the reasons you’re a good man and reiterates your passion for these, not just in it for a quick buck and to make some money
Thank you. Much appreciated!
I do this as a hobby and consider it very important that people get a good value for whatever they pay. Out of all the fridges I've fixed up and sold, only one has had to be bought back; and it was likely due to a power quality issue.
The demo you gave of how to find the common, run, and start pins on the motor was super useful to me. I'd always been confused by that in the past.
It's neat how you can hear the sound in the evaporator change as the system ran, and it started building more liquid.
Glad that was helpful! That has saved many units which had been given up on due to confusion and mis-wiring.
The flooded evaporator systems always have an interesting sound to them!
I learn something every time I watch one of your videos. Thanks!
Glad you found it educational! Thanks for watching!
I have a crosley that worked great and it's in excellent shape. One day it just stopped. I tried a jumper starter and still nothing. Great video thank you
Sorry to hear about your Crosley! Not sure what you mean by a "jumper starter" but if you applied power directly to the compressor terminals and it did not run, that is a bad sign. Normally if it stops working and gives no signs of life at all; the problem would be the start-relay or the thermostat.
Our old fridge!!!! Love watching your work!
Yes it is! Glad you're enjoying watching!
Thanks for the part of identifying the compressor terminals. Start and run in series was 9.7 ohms leaving the third right hand as common. Then common to run was 3.6 ohms and common to start 6.1 ohms. Very good teaching lesson.
Good job Hotwire relay testing and checkout of this fridge I'm looking forward to it soon
You never fail to teach me someting new. Excellent as usual.
Thank you.
Just picked up the aussie Kirby built version of this fridge, James N Kirby was a major aussie fridge manufacturer, they made a round rotofridge which is highly sought after
Looking forward to this video! Merry Christmas
Thanks, and Merry Christmas to you as well!
Hello there. Ptc relay. I think I just burned up my original hot wire relay. Can you give a link to the ptc relay you mentioned that you would use? Thank you
For the small horsepower compressors like the 1/8 HP in this unit - use a Supco RO81. Don't order from any cheap overseas sites as fakes abound. Go to a local supply house or order from a reputable industrial place like Zoro dot com.
@davida1hiwaaynet thank you for the information!! I love my old beer and pizza basement fridge. I hope this will be the answer for replacing the HOT WIRE Relay.
Thanks David.
Feeling a little defeated. I just restored this very fridge with this very issue. I got it all back, but the wiring was so bad… long story short, I have a couple wires unidentified, and I have lost my light! Which was fine before I pulled the relay.
Is there a chance you could tell
Me which two wires are the light and:or why they connect to ? (Ie- hot and common, or just the two main power ins?
I'm sorry you're feeling defeated.
At the moment I'm very busy. Please email me and I can assist. My email is on the channel about page.
@@davida1hiwaaynet thanks… I got it mostly working now, but it just gets colder and colder. I think
The thermostat isn’t hooked up correctly…. I don’t see your email, but I have requested contact through Facebook? Hope to reach you soon… pretty easy question now I think? Thanks for the videos!!!
That needs a lot of love
Yeah; it does!
Planning to wash it, clearcoat the exterior to preserve it; and then clean and rust-treat the area under the cabinet for preservation reasons. This look, with the rust and patina on the cabinet, seems to be popular now.
I do not know for certain, but I would not be surprised if the "hot wire" inside of the relay was just a common nichrome wire working in much the same way a Sunbeam radiant control toaster does.
It could be!
Wow, awesome the system is still intact and sealed. Even if it sprang a leak now, at least you know it hasn’t been open to moisture for years. How about a trip through the ultrasonic for that relay? Seems it might be salvageable.
There's a chance it could be salvageable, but I have found out that in the interest of ensuring the safe and long-term reliability of the compressor, it's best to go with a different type relay. The hotwire relays were good for their day, but they are very sensitive to ambient temperature and voltage variations. They often re-cycle the start winding several times during startup, when voltage or temperature is low, and sometimes the overload trips and won't reset until the relay is "tapped" by hand. I think the technology is amazing that it works at all, but I would rather have the peace of mind from a more robust design.
I now have a much better idea how my relay works in my 46 Philco. Thank you.
Great!
Thanks!
i would love to own this restored.
At the moment I have many, many projects ongoing but in the future, I might restore it.
"patina"...LOL!
Patina.....
Extreme and overwhelming patina!
last month i defrosted my 1947 or 48 crosley shelvador (no sharp objects , but i did use 2 vintage electric defrosters , got distracted , and evaporator got hot) . plugged fridge in and went to bed . morning found house breaker tripped and oil on the floor , probably locked compressor . leak is somewhere between inner and outer cabinet , probably near evaporator . could i have gotten it hot enough to melt factory (soldered?) connections ? fridge was beautiful inside , porcelain , glass (even the full width freezer door) , aluminum , and chrome . i plan on trying to find the leak , and even though i'd be willing to spend nearly the price of a new 18 ft fridge , probably no one in my area can/will replace the compressor . but i still haven't completely given up hope . if i use compressed air at compressor charge port to find leak , will the air cause corrosion damage internally ? thanks .
What brand 40’s 50’s fridge would you recommend based on likelihood that it will still run and easiest to repair?
In general, all of them from that era are good. GE and Frigidaire would be most likely to be easily fixable. Other brands may have more confusing wiring setups.
I have a 1950's GE that ran good before a flood...trying to trouble shoot it. Which 3 in 1 type starter are you using in your test set up and which 3 in 1 is best for these vintage fridges?
Hi Neil. I don't normally recommend any capacitor type start device, unless the unit came with a capacitor from the factory. The device I am using for this test in the video is a Supco RO81. It is an overload circuit breaker, with a PTC timer start device. It's a very oversimplified device, and has its limitations. But it is reliable and allows easy testing. Search any supplier such as supplyhouse.com or even eBay for Supco RO81. They make several sizes. The RO81 is for 1/12 up too 1/5 HP 115V units. The RO41 is for 1/4 and 1/3 HP units. The difference is the trip point for the overload breaker.
The water probably got into the start relay on yours. Hopefully it didn't get into the overload breaker. If the entire relay is submerged in water while the power is on, the water will prevent heat from building up and allowing the breaker to trip, and allowing the start relay to cycle off. This usually results in a compressor burnout.
If the power was not on during the incident when it was flooded, it likely just has rusted up the relay and changing that part will fix the fridge.
I’m having that issue to where I unplugged it to defrost water got into the relay and rusted it can’t seem to find a alternative and I see that you say a 3in1 isn’t recommended that’s the route I was headed glad I came across this video lol please help
Hi
I have a 1950 Frigidaire refrigerator. The original relay went bad. I bought the new solid state replacement one. I hooked it up but didn't do it correctly and the fridge just keeps running and getting colder and colder. I have the wiring schematic but cant figure out what I did wrong. Can't turn it off unless I put the plug.
Can you help me?
Please e-mail me and I will assist. I looked at your channel page but didn't see your e-mail address.
Hi new to the channel amd love the content. I have what I believe is this same refrigerator. The wires going up into the sidewall of the fridge are very brittle. I want to rewire but am unsure how to disassemble if this is even possible. Does anyone have information on how to take the front apart of course without destroying it? Thanks.
Very nice model. i have a question for you. i have an Roy old fridge (i thinks it' a 1954) that work nice but some time the compressor won't restart after reaching its temperature. when he does this problem, I give him some smooth smack and he restart. can you help me with this issue if you have seen this before? thank you in advance :)
That sounds like a sticking thermostat! May need to refurbish or replace the thermostat.
@@davida1hiwaaynet thank David! i will try to replace that
@@davida1hiwaaynet Where would you find a thermostat for one of these?
@@rickeykeeton4770
I always use Ranco / Robertshaw replacement thermostats. I'm not at home at the moment, but can look up the part number for the last one I ordered. It will fit in the original location, but mounting taba and knob attachment may have to be adapted.
@@davida1hiwaaynet I cleaned the thermostat and the hot wire relay contact and now it run like a charm! thank again David. The relay was exactly the same as your but it's a 1953.
Looks like a tecumseh or GE, Kelvinator compressor
I think it's actually a Crosley design. I read in a rebuilding hermetic units book (a while back) about it. Will see if I can find that info again and share!
@@davida1hiwaaynet that would be grouse, kirby made a variant of this compressor too
Friend of mine has one very similar to this one.
He says he can hit or kick it a little and it starts back up.
We are thinking that relay or loose connection somewhere.
I did tell him the temp control might be at fault.
Comment?
Probably relay or thermostat.
I'd definitely encourage him to fix it ASAP, before damage happens to it.
@@davida1hiwaaynet The relay on his is the very same one shown in the video according to the part number on it.
What relay replaces those?
I talked to him again today. He told me he messing with the temp control had no effect. It is only when he taps the relay.
Btw, I did tell him to place a meat thermometer in it to check temp after it runs for a while.
I like to let them run several hours, if not overnight, when I check temps.
As I am sure you know, it is hard to come to a definite conclusion without actually being there with it.
@@rickeykeeton4770 it is definitely hard when you are not on site. That relay, The hot wire relay, is replaced by a Supco RO81 relay overload device. You can probably get that locally at an HVAC supply place, or order it online. You will have to study the wiring on the original relay to know where to connect the Supco relay. It functionally will replace the hot wire relay, however, it is not a point for point wiring exchange, because the Supco relay is a universal part.
@@davida1hiwaaynet So, I can’t just put neutral to Common and the hots to Run and Start?
I usually use ohm meter to determine Common, Run, and Start at the compressor
then connect accordingly.
Thanks for the quick responses.
@@rickeykeeton4770 If you connect neutral to common, and hot to run and start, the compressor might run. But if you leave it like that more than 5 or 10 seconds you will destroy the compressor.
I think your friend who owns this fridge reached out to me on Facebook. I explained to him that he needs RO81 start device. That will take the place of the original delco hotwire relay.
Powell crosley actually diddnt come up with the shelvador idea it was a young man who worked for him that came up with the idea