As of a few months ago Napa auto parts still stocks the light bulb socket button pigtails, they have for as long as I have been alive. I rarely if ever repair them if the wire is broken off them. I buy them in bulk and just replace them.
This one needed the wire to the shell repaired. And as I stated in the video they need to be isolated from the chassis. Only takes a minute or two to fix them....
A long video but I didn't notice. Quite a can of worms there Vern, well done sorting it all out. It's interesting to watch the radio operation come together a small step at a time. Every small repair resulted in getting closer to a functioning radio. Good watch, thanks Vern 👍🙂
I remember a place in Manchester called ESS - Electronic Surplus Services. Only got to go twice before they shut down due to COVID. I miss that place =(
Hi Vern! First of all I love this type of videos where you actually reason on camera, showing the thought process and the steps needed to fix such a tough receiver! The trick to check the local oscillator was very interesting! I have a question about your bench, specifically the layout. I notice how most of your instruments are either eye-level or bench level, so that most of the time a set on the bench covers them partially. This feels important especially for such a tool like the VTVM, but it seems that for your works just fine. What's the most useful bench layout in your opinion, regarding test equipment, parts etc especially for someone whose lab is in a cramped basement? Do you have a method in arranging your bench? Also, please tell us some stories about your repairmen past, it would be really interesting I think!
Hi Will, Your question on the bench layout brought a smile to my face. I have been at this since the 70's and have never found the perfect layout, or enough bench space. (Is there such a thing?) If you look at the layout of the 10 Buck Test bench the VTVM is actually hanging from the bottom of the shelf. While on my other bench the VTVM which has a huge meter face is sitting on the bench. I usually have at least one scope sitting on the bench, while spectrum analyzers are on the shelf. Signal generators, frequency counters etc usually are on the shelf. Usually. Had a bench years ago that was over 5 feet deep. Lots of room for test equipment and room to work. However, I had to keep standing up to reach the test gear. One shop I worked in had benches 16 feet long, the issue here was I always needed the meter that was on the far end. Just can't win. My Ham radio layout has the Radios on the bench, accessories are mounted below the shelf above the radios, and Linear Amps and tuners are on top of the shelf. My suggestion is build the biggest bench you can, add a shelf over it, then work with it for a while. It all comes down to a matter of personal likes. Thanks for watching and for the insightful question. I'll see about telling some tales. Should be safe after all these years.
Your metal bench makes me nervous. The likelihood is you are in contact with it when working so your body is earthed if the bench is earthed, so if you touch B+ the current will flow through you. With my wooden bench and floor in a dry environment, I could touch B+ and the bench and not get a shock. I need to touch two different voltage parts to get a shock, not just one. The other possibility is that your bench isn't earthed, so it takes on a voltage from anything that touches it, like a live chassis.
Every set on the bench is connected to an isolation transformer. It is as safe or dangerous as any radio when you touch the B+. Having a wooden bench and touching the B+ isn't any safer if you come in contact with the chassis. Always work with an isolation transformer is the advice I give in many videos. Even when working on sets with transformers as the AC is always present. Thanks for your concern, but I have over 60 years experience doing this. Every shock I have ever received was when working on a wooden bench. Isolation transformers can be had for as little as $50 brand new, and much cheaper second hand. Cheap insurance.
I was wondering about the metal bench as well but knew you mentioned an isolation transformer. I was still wondering if that could cause a problem with the metal and plugged in test equipment that could somehow defeat the isolation. Also I would suggest to everyone, that a purchased (especially cut rate price stuff off the web - temu, Amazon, China) transformer be confirmed for actual isolation.
1:09:50 I would also suggest some guys are so quick to replace original parts with repo's. I would tend to suggest that the original, in most cases, would be of better quality and worth salvaging if possible. You showed that with the dial lamp holder. Which was no more work than popping another on. Look at what happened to your "new" number 47 lamp. I always look to trying to take apart an original component to attempt repair on things like this. A lot of the time, old stuff will come apart easy peasy. For example I have taken apart a couple late 40's house light flip switches on the blink. These things just had crimp pins (now they are riveted or worse). Cleaned out grime and worked great again. Ditto on the head light switch in a 1960 Allis D - 17 tractor. The knockoff stuff a lot of the time is not of the same caliber.
This one was a stubborn one, but worth the struggle. I enjoyed the video, thank you! Also, you don't "talk too much". Nonsense - it's interesting to follow your train of thought and fault finding.
As of a few months ago Napa auto parts still stocks the light bulb socket button pigtails, they have for as long as I have been alive. I rarely if ever repair them if the wire is broken off them. I buy them in bulk and just replace them.
This one needed the wire to the shell repaired. And as I stated in the video they need to be isolated from the chassis. Only takes a minute or two to fix them....
A long video but I didn't notice. Quite a can of worms there Vern, well done sorting it all out. It's interesting to watch the radio operation come together a small step at a time. Every small repair resulted in getting closer to a functioning radio. Good watch, thanks Vern 👍🙂
Not nearly as polished as your David, but this one was a fun challenge.
I remember a place in Manchester called ESS - Electronic Surplus Services. Only got to go twice before they shut down due to COVID. I miss that place =(
I agree with you about saving tubes. First I have actually heard someone talking about this.
I also wish you had remembered that before ignoring the dial lamp and jumped pins.
No complaints about long videos here! Thanks for posting it! Cheers - Luther
Perfect length video. Learned some stuff too. Thanks, Vern!
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Hi Vern! First of all I love this type of videos where you actually reason on camera, showing the thought process and the steps needed to fix such a tough receiver!
The trick to check the local oscillator was very interesting!
I have a question about your bench, specifically the layout.
I notice how most of your instruments are either eye-level or bench level, so that most of the time a set on the bench covers them partially. This feels important especially for such a tool like the VTVM, but it seems that for your works just fine. What's the most useful bench layout in your opinion, regarding test equipment, parts etc especially for someone whose lab is in a cramped basement? Do you have a method in arranging your bench?
Also, please tell us some stories about your repairmen past, it would be really interesting I think!
Hi Will,
Your question on the bench layout brought a smile to my face. I have been at this since the 70's and have never found the perfect layout, or enough bench space. (Is there such a thing?)
If you look at the layout of the 10 Buck Test bench the VTVM is actually hanging from the bottom of the shelf. While on my other bench the VTVM which has a huge meter face is sitting on the bench. I usually have at least one scope sitting on the bench, while spectrum analyzers are on the shelf.
Signal generators, frequency counters etc usually are on the shelf. Usually.
Had a bench years ago that was over 5 feet deep. Lots of room for test equipment and room to work. However, I had to keep standing up to reach the test gear.
One shop I worked in had benches 16 feet long, the issue here was I always needed the meter that was on the far end. Just can't win.
My Ham radio layout has the Radios on the bench, accessories are mounted below the shelf above the radios, and Linear Amps and tuners are on top of the shelf.
My suggestion is build the biggest bench you can, add a shelf over it, then work with it for a while. It all comes down to a matter of personal likes.
Thanks for watching and for the insightful question.
I'll see about telling some tales. Should be safe after all these years.
Love your self-deprecating humor man. Learned a few things along the way with you. Thanks Vern.
Thanks master, nice of you to stop by...
This was a great educational video with lots of troubleshooting of weird issues Vern.
Thanks Jim, this one was a fun challenge..
You don't have to get rid of your current camera to add another one to your setup. You can use one for one and the other for the other.
The 474 should have been 473, (if wanting to use a 0.047uF). Makes you wonder who these people are! They obviously DON'T understand electronics!!
He/She gave it a valiant try. Hopefully they improve.
Your metal bench makes me nervous. The likelihood is you are in contact with it when working so your body is earthed if the bench is earthed, so if you touch B+ the current will flow through you. With my wooden bench and floor in a dry environment, I could touch B+ and the bench and not get a shock. I need to touch two different voltage parts to get a shock, not just one. The other possibility is that your bench isn't earthed, so it takes on a voltage from anything that touches it, like a live chassis.
Every set on the bench is connected to an isolation transformer. It is as safe or dangerous as any radio when you touch the B+. Having a wooden bench and touching the B+ isn't any safer if you come in contact with the chassis. Always work with an isolation transformer is the advice I give in many videos. Even when working on sets with transformers as the AC is always present.
Thanks for your concern, but I have over 60 years experience doing this. Every shock I have ever received was when working on a wooden bench.
Isolation transformers can be had for as little as $50 brand new, and much cheaper second hand. Cheap insurance.
@@theradiomechanic9625 I do have an isolation transformer.
I was wondering about the metal bench as well but knew you mentioned an isolation transformer. I was still wondering if that could cause a problem with the metal and plugged in test equipment that could somehow defeat the isolation. Also I would suggest to everyone, that a purchased (especially cut rate price stuff off the web - temu, Amazon, China) transformer be confirmed for actual isolation.
1:09:50 I would also suggest some guys are so quick to replace original parts with repo's. I would tend to suggest that the original, in most cases, would be of better quality and worth salvaging if possible. You showed that with the dial lamp holder. Which was no more work than popping another on. Look at what happened to your "new" number 47 lamp. I always look to trying to take apart an original component to attempt repair on things like this. A lot of the time, old stuff will come apart easy peasy.
For example I have taken apart a couple late 40's house light flip switches on the blink. These things just had crimp pins (now they are riveted or worse). Cleaned out grime and worked great again. Ditto on the head light switch in a 1960 Allis D - 17 tractor. The knockoff stuff a lot of the time is not of the same caliber.
Who knows what problems one might cause in a radio with a poorly made knockoff like that pot.
This one was a stubborn one, but worth the struggle. I enjoyed the video, thank you! Also, you don't "talk too much". Nonsense - it's interesting to follow your train of thought and fault finding.
Thanks for the kind words...