Honestly this type of controller is intimidating. Just looking wires everywhere don't know where to start. But this guy made it so simple. Thanks for sharing 👍
Great video! really helped me understand some of these controller that don’t really give any markings on their wire. Will help me for my project. Thank you!
I have an escooter that just died. I installed new batteries and I get nothing. How can I trouble shoot the controller. You are the best in explaining how things work and troubleshooting. Thanks for your videos.
Sorry to hear that about your e-scooter. There are so many electronic components and parts involved that it is hard to pinpoint the problem. It could be the controller, a blown fuse, the hall sensors not working, or a wire not connected properly to the motor. I saw several videos that might be helpful for troubleshooting the controller. ruclips.net/video/ev2J6iq5t4g/видео.html, ruclips.net/video/lTssCn5YyTw/видео.html, ruclips.net/video/NNtGJS-jGd4/видео.html&pbjreload=101. I hope this helps. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing. I'm planning to use just the batteries, a DC/AC inverter, the 24V DC motor and a permanent magnet generator (output of 220V). The motor will power, (rotate), the permanent magnet generator. I will get current from generator to feed my equipment and feed the inverter which will keep my batteries up to the task. I hope to reduce my energy costs and be ''off-grid'' at least 80% (eventually). Energy costs are sky-rocketing and will prevent any ''hit to my pocket'' down the road. Again, thanks for sharing.
This tutorial is awesome and very helpful, thank you so much. please make a tutorial on how to use the REVERSE and the BRAKE cables connection. Thanks!
Thank you sir! I have a throttle grip with a cruise control function - and I have exactly the same controller you show in this video. How do I hook up the grip's cruise control to the motor controller? Thanks!
@1:19, just to clarify what you're saying. The Hall sensors provide feedback on the rotor's position to the controller, so that it can properly drive the main phase connections. The Hall sensors do not create or manage the torque, that is all done by the main phase windings. The current in the Hall sensors is tiny -- a fraction of a milliamp.
Thanks for that clarification. You've explained it much better than I did. @1:35-2:00 I explained that the hall sensors collect information by sensing the magnetic field of the rotor, from there the sensors would inform the controller to provide specific magnetic field to interact with the rotor, meaning that the controller would release the electricity needed from the battery to generate the magnetic field in the specific stator poles or phases, therefore would generate torque against the magnetic fields of the rotor. You are absolutely correct, the current in the hall sensors is tiny. Thanks again.
Hey great vid! Could you tell me please what is the name of the third not necessary connector is? The first is for the break and the second for reverse Thanks a lot!
I think charger goes directly into the battery. The controller doesn't do this function. The BMS in the battery pack ensures that all cells are charged correctly.
@@moeznaseer5365 Hello, thank you for your help. let say I have a bunch of 18650 cells in series and parallel, do I connect the charger port to the cells? I was looking at this diagram. Would you be able to help? thanks esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/original/3X/9/5/95b5b09076b1382f0cef10d579d75cbf6ea337ae.png
The controller does not have a charger port. You can charge the batteries with separate charger. Check out my other video on how to charge a battery...ruclips.net/video/Ajt1ElIw8Qg/видео.html. Thanks!
@@diypotentials THank you for your help. True I can do that but if I combined multiple 18650 cells in parallel and series, I don't think it's possible to charge them separately, how would I charge it in this case? I'll need a charger port right and where wold I connect the charger port to? Thanks!
Hey, you've made it quite simple! Thanks Quick question, is it possible to make the motor spin in the other direction?? How do you charge the batteries?
It works but my source is a weak dc (48 V; 2-3 amp ) adapter so couldn't get the full run as expected but excited for tomorrow to try it on charged batteries with enough power, thankyou once again \m/
Update: it's now on full throttle :D , worked for both 48 V n 60 V thanks a lot , but this 48 V 750 W seems only good for bicycles not so much torque but 60 V 1200 W will try for a quad bike upgrade soon it has promissing speed n torque let's see on field with the quad bike n load ... Thankyou once again was about to return those as was unable to get the controller ON .
@@yaminoshinn1473 @yami no shinn How do you connected the yellow wires? Is it a problem to mix them up? I have a yellow and a white wire at the ignition cable. Hope you can help me out! Thanks.
@@jones8732 yes no problem it just provides a switching circuit for powering control box through ignition wire on control box which is connected to throttle wires (In my case yellow wires; in the video above yellow and blue ,assuming yours yellow and white ) i.e. If it's the throttle wire u are talking about . Though it might get reversely controlled( not definite ) in that case u can switch wires , anyways it won't have issues on control box try on low current output source first for more secure approach .
I just got the same throttle and was trying to figure out to how to connect it, so thank you for making this vid. Since the throttle has a voltage meter and it's directly connected to the battery, do you think a fuse between the two connection is necessary? I've seen some users do it with other voltage meters and others who don't.
If you are connecting it through a controller, I don't think a fuse is necessary. I use the throttle on 36V 30AH lithium-ion battery pack without a fuse and no problem at all. Take a look...ruclips.net/video/c6YgNQg3VM8/видео.html. Thanks for asking...
thank you very much for your help. I have a question. I did the same thing you did in the video. Throttle display turns on but engine won't start. what could be happening? I already checked the connections and they are the same as in the video. Thank you!!
Hello. Sorry to hear. My suggestion is to connect the leaning wires together. If that doesn't work, the next thing I would do is try to switch the phase wires from the controller to the motor- Sometimes the colors don't match. Try to switch one wire each time and test it. THIS is very IMPORTANT, when you switch the phase wires, you also have to align the Hall sensor wires as well. Be careful. Good luck...I hope that will work. Thanks!
Thank you for the details video, but how do you mount the hall sensor, my package actually has the hall sensor separate, where do I put this sensor onto the bike?
Hello, my understanding is that the hall sensors should be already installed in the BLDC motor. I recommend reaching out to the seller on this matter… Thanks!
It could be a hall sensor to mount ob your fork. Then you place a little magnet on your wheel. that setup is used for a speedometer it is seperate from te workings of the motor
Hi . Is it necessary to run this on battery? If it is driven with a 48 volt DC power supply (from AC to DC conversion circuit) will it not run? Or can get damaged? If it gets damaged please tell me the possible reasons. Thanks in advance
I have not try using a AC to DC converter to run it. But as long as the supply output is DC it should be okay. Try it...let me know if it works. Thanks!
Nice video. I was just wondering what the wires were to the motor. I'll need to watch this again when I look at my escooter. I did a quick fix on my kugoo m4 pro. I had banged/scrapped the wires that go to the motor. When I tried to accelerate then the motor would make like a vibrate noise and had very little power. So looking at the wires, I cut off the rubber protective and seen 2 thin wires were disconnected and the thick wires were fine. I connected the broken wires them by twisting together and duct taped it for now and scooter is working good. Just a quick fix until I get a soldering iron.
hello, For acceleration, at the level of the average, I note that it is the principle of the potentiometer which is used. I wanted to know what voltage is used? is it 5V or 48V? thank you for answering me dear friend
Thanks for the video. What do you think of running the motor without the speed controller. Meaning can i just connect the motor to the highest rate of the battery at once?
From my experience, a BLDC motor needs to be connected to a controller and will not work if directly connected to a battery. Once connected to a controller, you can set the desired current to run the motor. Thanks!
Thank you for the video. I can’t find a diagram on this controller and this is a huge help. I am trying to figure out what the remaining 4 sets of wires are for that you didn’t cover. Do you know what the black plug with the red, blue, and black wire is for. Is that peddle assist? I took the controller apart to see if the board had any clues on it. The wires were labeled as Red=+5V, Black=TX, and Blue=RX. Are the orange and black wires going into the female 3 pin plug the low brake wires? The circuit is labeled BKL on orange and GND on black. Are the grey and black wires going into the two pin plug the switching wires for forward and reverse? Grey is labeled BACK and Black is GND. Is the purple wire an battery voltage indicator wire? It is labeled XC Thank you in advance for your help.
Hello, the black plug with the red, blue, and black wire is peddle assist. The black and orange plug is for Brake. The gray and black plug is for reverse. You are correct. The purple wire is the speedometer. Thanks!
Hey bro! I am doing a similar project and was wondering what connection cables you used to connect the 12 Volt motors together to form 48 Volts. I was also wondering if i could just test the motor’s throttle with just one 12 Volt battery just to see if the accelerator is working or if I need the full 48 Volts. Thanks
I used 14 AWG wires to connect the batteries in series to form the 48v. If the controller and motor are rated for 12v or more, you might be able to test with one 12v. If not, you might need the full 48v. Good luck on your project…
@@diypotentials I searched online, but I can't find ones that connect to the battery like your's do. Do you mind sending a link or if there is something else I should search up to find them?
Heyo, great vid. I have two of the same motors you have in 60v 750w and a 60V20AH 3000W lithium ion battery. I want to run both motors together for my project. Any ideas what would be a good setup for running two motors? Thanks much!
Hey Joe, thanks for asking. Sound like an interesting project. I have not tried running two BLDC motors off the same battery and controller, so I won’t be able to offer any helpful suggestions. Maybe the other folks can chime in. Best of luck. Thanks!
Can you provide a link for that bus block or terminal block you used? I can only find ones that distribute across all the cables not just the two terminals connected end-to-end.
Hello, I am interested in buying one of these, I notice on the web page it says there is a charging wire .. Is there a way to know when charge runs out? Also for a 12V battery, how to know if charge is low and how to charge? thank you sir
I was wondering what were the big alligator clips coming from the battery and connecting to the speed controller. I am thinking of doing a similar project and this part I need
Those were 12 AWG wires with ring terminal connectors and alligator clips. You can find them on Amazon or ebay. You can also purchase the parts separately and put them together. Here is a link just for example. amzn.to/3BRqj3z. I hope this helps. Thanks!
The controller is rated at 30A. The rated power is 750W and the rated voltage is 48V. If you are going to apply 30A, you have to lower the voltage level to 24V in order to meet the power rating (24V X 30A = 720W). If you are applying 48V, the current (amperage) should be a round 15A (48V X 15A=720W). Hope this helps. Thanks!
All of you using brushless motor kits for ebikes, will you tell me what motor you decided to go with and how it worked out for you I'm trying to buy one right now and I'm not sure which one to go with. Thanks
Hello DIY man. Thank you for making this excellent video! It was must helpful. However, we have a problem with our setup! Every time we try to connect the positive wire to the battery, there is a big soak! We can't find any bad connections though. Do you have any ideas what could cause the sparking?
Hello, that doesn’t sound good. Could be a number of things in the circuit. Check again if the batteries polarities are property connected. Other than that, it is difficult to tell without looking at your set up. So sorry!
Hello, I’m in Yellowstone this week. Very limited access to the internet. I don’t think you can bypass the controller to test the motor. My email is diypotentials@gmail.com. I can help more after my vacation on July 5.
I am looking to make a ropetow in the garden powered by a battery. The ropetow just needs a simple start / stop (presumably connect/disconnect the battery) and to tow a person skiing up a hill. Would you reckon this motor would be good enough or would it be too fast or too weak? Honestly, I know it is a very odd question but just curious and looking at the market.
Sounds like a fun DIY project. The motor might not be powerful enough. If you have access to AC power, that might be a better option, then you can use an AC motor with maybe 2 horsepower or so. Brushed DC motor might be easier to connect, but you will need a good size battery bank. You will eventually need to charge the battery. Here are couple of videos that you might find helpful. Good luck! ruclips.net/video/XeOAjB2jfPc/видео.html, ruclips.net/video/fiUEUrfW2RE/видео.html
@@diypotentials Thanks for the reply. Yeah I was thinking it may not have enough power to tow a person up the hill. I have access to AC power at home but I was trying to get it as portable as possible as the slope isn't near a power source, hence why I thought your video with the battery was quite interesting. The two setups in the videos are very interesting, and using the dolly is a good advantage for transportation but like in the videos, they are connected to the mains. I don't mind having to charge the battery but as you said , a good size battery would be required. I will also keep an eye for a two hp motor or even an engine with a drive. Thanks for your help!
Hi there! Thank you for your great explanation! I have one question. Would the 4x 12V batteries connected in parallel be enough to power, for example, a small buggy? Or would powering something like this require more power? Thanks.
It depends on the power requirement of the buggy. If the buggy is rated for 12v, then the answer is yes. Connecting the batteries in parallel will not increase the voltage level. If the buggy is rated for 48v for example, you have to connect the 4 12v batteries in series to get the 48v needed. I hope this helps!
@@diypotentials Thank you! Another question I had was, would 48V be a high enough voltage to power a 4-wheeled small vehicle like a golf cart for example? I assume 48V is plenty to produce high speeds for a bike since it is low weight, but would 48V be sufficient for achieving high speeds for a heavier vehicle like a golf cart or would a higher voltage need to be used? Once again, thank you so much!
@@pathumdanthanarayana9740 It depends on the golf cart's specific voltage requirement. If it is rated for 48v then you can power it with 48v. If it is rate for 36V for example, then 48v would be to much for the engine to handle. Over time you can damage the engine. The heavier the vehicle, the more energy it will use, which means that it will draw more amps out of the batteries to meet the weight and speed needed.
Im a little confused. So blue and yellow are powered. So what's the difference between the main power line and the small red line? Why does the switch curcuit need both wires powered? Shouldn't one go to ground?
The way I understand it is that the yellow wire is a positive line for the switch, so it needs to be connected to the power source which is the red positive wire from the battery--So it is a parallel circuit. Coming out or at the opposite end of the switch is the blue line, which is still positive, that is why it is connected to the small red wire feeding into the controller, where the current will eventaully return to ground. It is very confusing. Maybe others can explain better. Thanks!
Hi and thank you for your great tutorial. I followed it completely to replace my former thumb throttle. I tried the new sensor on an external source first and it showed the expected 5V connecting the positive and the ground cable and low Voltage when connecting the Data cable with ground which would increase when I twisted the accelarator. Connecting the throttle to the controler and motor I quickly found that I had to switch the yellow and white cable in order to not have the display consistently on and the keys without function. With the cables switched, power supply seemed to be working as intended. However, while the horn and lights worked well, the accelerator did not work at all. When measuring with Voltmeter, the data cable of the throttle showed negative Volt value which would not change when I twisted the throttle. I can not explain to myself why that happened. I tried few other cable combinations but to have the key function working I could not find a way to make the sensor/accelerator work. Do you have any idea about what went wrong and how I can fix that? I would highly appreciate some help. Best wishes Fran
The only thing I can think of is based on your description is that the throttle terminals from the controller and the accelerator might not be compatible. Sounds like you already tried and make sure the positive, negative and signal lines ( green) from both the controller and throttle are matched and connected. Sorry bro. Might be a disconnect in the throttle circuit…
Hey actually that was quite helpful as it made me check Volt output for the Halle sensor at the controller and that is not the 5V needed. Now I can only think that I dont have Ignition and Switch assigned correctly as in my controller they are not easy to find. How can you recognize where to connect the blue and yellow cable from the throttle,. You connect the blue cable in the video to a red cable which comes directly from the main Battery cable or some side connector? Same is for the yellow cable to the Switch. In my controller I couldnt tell which one that is. And my last question. With this controller and throttel, can you connect front and rear light and a horn which all switch off with the key? I really wuld appreciate an answer as anything helps right now.
Great video, thank you so much. After I change my controller my ebike is not not running in full power, feels more like medium power. The 2 speed switch (low & Hi) is not working. No wires from controller is labeld. Anyone knows what color and how many wires it suppose to be out from the controller?
Hi, please, can you tell me what the blue/black/red connector and the dark (single wire) connector are for? I've the same controller but I don't know what they are for. THANKS!
The blue/black/red connector is for the pedal assist and the dark single wire is for the speed meter. Also, I just added the wiring info in the description. Thanks and good luck on your project!
It might work on drift trike, but go kart for sure. In terms of battery, I suggest getting lithium-ion battery pack. They are more expensive than lead acid batteries, but lighter and more energy density. Some of these packs come with a charger. You can explore eBay for different options. eBay should have a12v charger as well. Thanks!
Thanks for the review. I was thinking of buying this motor, but im rather put off by how noisy it is. Most high quality BLDCs are nearly inaudible; would happily pay double for something more quiet for my project.... but its hard to tell from the aliexpress page how noisy it will be in practice I suppose.
I believe the BLDC motors are also called EC motors (electronically commutated) motors. They are often found in fans in the air conditioning industry. They are preferred because of their energy efficient characteristic but they also cost more than PSC (permanent split capacitor) fans.
@@diypotentials My controller doesn't have an ignition wire and I bought a throttle with ingnition key and the throttle has three standard throttle wires and two more wires, the yellow and the blue (ignition) wire. Any thoughts on how to resolve this? Thank you
Hi I had a question. Does it matter what awg wire we use for the battery connections? Do you mind sending a link to the wires you used? I have a similar setup but my kit came without battery wires. I have a 48V 33A controller and I wanted to get the most out of it so I was going to use 4 12v 30A batteries. Now I just need to know which wires to purchase
Hello, you won’t be drawing 30A at a time. I recommend a 12 awg wire. Here is the wire current chart. If you think you will be drawing more amps, refer to the chart to the right rating for your project. Thanks! www.solaris-shop.com/content/American%20Wire%20Gauge%20Conductor%20Size%20Table.pdf
Hey, I am looking to use this type of Motor controller with a microcontroller, so I am having trouble finding out the correct connections. I saw your other tutorial with the small motor driver and there are 4 digital pins, Z/F, VR, Signal and EL. So as far as I know, the equivalent of the VR would be the throttle cable, but aside from that I am kind of lost, as the small motor driver has a Signal pin which I've seen is for sensor feedback, but the only cables related to this are the three hall cables, so I think an equivalent to this would be an external encoder. Now, the Z/F pin stands for direction of the motor, and EL stands for Start/Stop, so I would appreciate if you could provide me some guidance on which cables from this motor driver would be equivalent to be connected to a microcontroller, as I can't seem to find a suitable schematic or datasheet of the motor driver.
The battery pack is 7ah. I would discharge it up to 7A only. That would be 336W. I recommend having a higher AH battery pack for a real application. Mine is just for demonstration with no load…
Well it work as the motor will spins if I only use a 24v battery on this 48v setup? Because my new setup didn't work when I use a 24v battery on mine 48v setup, is there a battery cut off?
The motor will probably work at 24v but it won’t be as powerful. If it is rated at 48v it will work better at that level. Also, it won’t work at 24v if the controller only run on 36v or 48v. Thanks!
@@diypotentials I have a 36v 11a rated current motor, 10s 5p (Samsung 30q) battery, along with a speed controller rated for 30a max.. I'm creating a 'light duties' power assist bike trialor.. hopefully the set up will work. I may need a more powerful motor.
Sounds like you are set for the project. Your motor should be sufficient. The motor is I used for my Ebike conversion (ruclips.net/video/c6YgNQg3VM8/видео.html) has a similar rating at 450 Watts. Good luck on your project. Thanks!
Amazing video! I was looking for this. Just one question - Is it really necessary to buy the motor controller? Is it not possible to control the motor directly from an Arduino (I have seen this in some videos) ? and also MATLAB/Simulink have a Motor Control Toolbox, would it work ? Thanks in advance!
I haven't not try it with Arduino. So I would not be able to say yes or no. The controller is specifically designed for the motor as it also comes with other features for controlling your ebike, scooters, etc. Thanks.
One question the blue wire off the throttle goes to any power source other than the battery right im work with different controller for a brushed set up and as this throttle is universal i need to now figure the blue wire as b4 it was blue and yellow
Check out part I & II of my ebike videos…Powerful Electric Bike Conversion Part II--Lithium-ion Battery Power Boost Upgrade ruclips.net/video/c6YgNQg3VM8/видео.html
I'm a big guy 360 lb. So I was thinking on my build of mini bike. That has a predator 6 1/2 horsepower Honda clone motor. That seized up I'm switching out I should use a 750 w rickshaw motor because of the tour and I can always gear it up for speed. Very capable builder. And have a good knowledge of electric from building RC cars would this be the way to go to have good pickup. I mean 30 miles an hour is more than enough. What do you think looking at a system just like the one you have and getting a 40 w 40 amp hour battery. Also considering starting to build batteries for people around me for their salon bikes and stuff
HI! Thank you soo much for sharing your thoughts with all of us re ebike controllers! I have a 2008ish 500watt 36volt AC hubmtr. with a 7 speed Shimano, throttle type ebike from the landfill! I can't find Battery, housing, charger and BMS and I believe the controller is in the hub. Connector to the battery has 6 pins 4 large pins and 2 small and the one to the hub has 5 small only two large pins. Spent hours of research, learning but still afraid to buy a possible battery, BMS and charger for it. I have had the ebike for months and I just want to go out get some exercise and experiment with this more. Also read I may need to change the throttle to a potentiometer type and I would need to getting bike rolling for the wheel to start rotating. Not a problem for me to do that and cooling down with fins or holes to stop any overheating is also. Cant I just get a get an LI 20 amp battery kit with BMS, charger with a SW/fuses and not the 30 amp controller you are showing here? I think I saw a 1-5 volt potentiometer on your other video but not sure where to get it? Way grateful for any thoughts on this!
Hello, I'm not familiar with the hub-motor you described, so I won't be able to give any feedback on that. However, I don't think the controller is in the hub. There might be a hall sensor circuit inside the hub, though. But I might be wrong. Also since the motor is rated at 500 watts at 36V, it needs about 14 amps to reach 500 watts at 36V. So if you are planning on getting a controller, any one able to handle 14-20 amps or more would be sufficient, even the 30 amp one so long it is rated for 36V. For battery, a 20 AH (amp-hours) will be sufficient. Of course the more AH the battery has, the more run-time you will get. I found a video that might be more helpful..ruclips.net/video/A8QcNvRh0wM/видео.html. Best of luck. Thanks!
@@diypotentials Thanks again for looking at this and commenting here! With this I am getting a little more confidence on purchasing the controller you have here along with an Li battery/BMS and charger may just get it to work! I love that throttle you have here too! Not many frills on this ebike so just a Voltage reading is great for my needs. My mistake on the Hub Mtr pin out it's really a 7 pin push and screw on plug. There are 5 small male pins on it. I am guessing these may be 5 vdc for the hall sensors plus the throttle? Not sure yet until I test those leads and look further. If so what you are noting above makes more sense. I know it has a thermistor in the hub for overheating conditions but no direct pinouts for that. Enjoy your day and Kind Regards!
It depends on the amount of power you draw--the more, the shorter runtime, the less the longer runtime. The motor is not connected to a load, so it is consuming only 48 watts (48V X 1A). I connected four 12V batteries in series to get 48V. Therefore, the voltages add up to 48V, but the battery amperage or capacity is still 7Ah or amp hours. So at 48 watts or just drawing 1 amp, I would get 7 hours at 100% discharge. But in reality, batteries work best up to 50% discharge or state of charge, so the runtime unloaded would be around 3.5 hours. However, if you connect the battery to a load that would draw 7 amps or 336 watts (48V X 7A), that would give you 1 hour of runtime at 100% discharge. At 50% state of charge, you would get around 30 minutes. I hope this helps…
A go kart, but not on a vehicle. The motor is not powerful enough for a vehicle. You might visit evwest.com for possible dc motors for vehicle conversion. Thanks!
Lead acid batteries will work on bldc motors, but they have to meet the motor’s voltage requirement. For example, if the motor is rated for 48v, then you have to add 3 more 12v batteries to the circuit. Watch my video on how to connect batteries in series…How to Wire Batteries in Series and Parallel for Beginners! ruclips.net/video/X6xLmuk7udM/видео.html
I’m happy to see one person do this in English..thank you great video
Thanks!
If you have more videos like this send me the links
@@Vikitech5 you can click on my channel logo for more DIY projects. Thanks!
Honestly this type of controller is intimidating. Just looking wires everywhere don't know where to start. But this guy made it so simple.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks 😊
Thank you sooooo much dude my son is so happy I was able to wire it up all because of how you explained. Thank you
I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks!
Great video! really helped me understand some of these controller that don’t really give any markings on their wire. Will help me for my project. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks!
I just started to get into electric bikes, and your videos explain so much.
Thank you so much
Awesome! I’m glad it was helpful..
I have an escooter that just died. I installed new batteries and I get nothing. How can I trouble shoot the controller. You are the best in explaining how things work and troubleshooting. Thanks for your videos.
Sorry to hear that about your e-scooter. There are so many electronic components and parts involved that it is hard to pinpoint the problem. It could be the controller, a blown fuse, the hall sensors not working, or a wire not connected properly to the motor. I saw several videos that might be helpful for troubleshooting the controller. ruclips.net/video/ev2J6iq5t4g/видео.html, ruclips.net/video/lTssCn5YyTw/видео.html, ruclips.net/video/NNtGJS-jGd4/видео.html&pbjreload=101. I hope this helps. Thanks!
I have the same exact throttle but my controller doesn’t have ignition wire. Any solution? Your video was the best a saw so far on the topic.
Thanks for sharing. I'm planning to use just the batteries, a DC/AC inverter, the 24V DC motor and a permanent magnet generator (output of 220V). The motor will power, (rotate), the permanent magnet generator. I will get current from generator to feed my equipment and feed the inverter which will keep my batteries up to the task. I hope to reduce my energy costs and be ''off-grid'' at least 80% (eventually). Energy costs are sky-rocketing and will prevent any ''hit to my pocket'' down the road. Again, thanks for sharing.
Best wishes! Thank you!
This tutorial is awesome and very helpful, thank you so much. please make a tutorial on how to use the REVERSE and the BRAKE cables connection. Thanks!
AWESOME VIDEO !!. . The only thing I can think of would be if you added timestamps for each parts of the video. Hope that helps
Thank you 😌 as everyone says!
Brilliant upload, learnt something fascinating & very cost effective!!
How good is this guy 👌👍💯
Thank you! VERY well explained with good lighting and organization.
Out standing videos 👍👍👍 this will help me with My E-bikes great job thanks again for your help
I appreciate the nice words. Thanks!
@@diypotentials Can you help me calculate the maximum weight that I can carry using that motor and with the same control and batteries please
Thank you very much sir. Excellent Video and very clear. Helped me very much in my conversion project.
Thank you!
Thank you for great video.
But I have a question?
How do you make that motor run in reverse?
Thank you, Randy
simply change 2 of the 3 motor cables
Thank you sir! I have a throttle grip with a cruise control function - and I have exactly the same controller you show in this video. How do I hook up the grip's cruise control to the motor controller? Thanks!
@1:19, just to clarify what you're saying. The Hall sensors provide feedback on the rotor's position to the controller, so that it can properly drive the main phase connections. The Hall sensors do not create or manage the torque, that is all done by the main phase windings. The current in the Hall sensors is tiny -- a fraction of a milliamp.
Thanks for that clarification. You've explained it much better than I did. @1:35-2:00 I explained that the hall sensors collect information by sensing the magnetic field of the rotor, from there the sensors would inform the controller to provide specific magnetic field to interact with the rotor, meaning that the controller would release the electricity needed from the battery to generate the magnetic field in the specific stator poles or phases, therefore would generate torque against the magnetic fields of the rotor. You are absolutely correct, the current in the hall sensors is tiny. Thanks again.
Thanks a bunch. Your presentation was great and helped me a lot. Keep it up.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful..
Hey great vid!
Could you tell me please what is the name of the third not necessary connector is? The first is for the break and the second for reverse
Thanks a lot!
Speedometer is the single purple wire and the other red, black and blue wire connector is the pedal assist.
Awesome video, where would you connect the charger port to? Does it connect to the controller?
I think charger goes directly into the battery. The controller doesn't do this function. The BMS in the battery pack ensures that all cells are charged correctly.
@@moeznaseer5365 Hello, thank you for your help. let say I have a bunch of 18650 cells in series and parallel, do I connect the charger port to the cells? I was looking at this diagram. Would you be able to help? thanks esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/original/3X/9/5/95b5b09076b1382f0cef10d579d75cbf6ea337ae.png
The controller does not have a charger port. You can charge the batteries with separate charger. Check out my other video on how to charge a battery...ruclips.net/video/Ajt1ElIw8Qg/видео.html. Thanks!
@@diypotentials THank you for your help. True I can do that but if I combined multiple 18650 cells in parallel and series, I don't think it's possible to charge them separately, how would I charge it in this case? I'll need a charger port right and where wold I connect the charger port to? Thanks!
@@diypotentials thank you very helpful!
Hey, you've made it quite simple! Thanks
Quick question, is it possible to make the motor spin in the other direction??
How do you charge the batteries?
Yes. The controller has a reverse switch. You can use a charger to charge batteries that are rechargeable.
Thankyou will try this , but....
I have both yellow wire for ignition connection at throttle , which one is blue can i connect in any one ?
It works but my source is a weak dc (48 V; 2-3 amp ) adapter so couldn't get the full run as expected but excited for tomorrow to try it on charged batteries with enough power, thankyou once again \m/
Awesome to hear it is working…
Update: it's now on full throttle :D , worked for both 48 V n 60 V thanks a lot , but this 48 V 750 W seems only good for bicycles not so much torque but 60 V 1200 W will try for a quad bike upgrade soon it has promissing speed n torque let's see on field with the quad bike n load ... Thankyou once again was about to return those as was unable to get the controller ON .
@@yaminoshinn1473 @yami no shinn How do you connected the yellow wires? Is it a problem to mix them up?
I have a yellow and a white wire at the ignition cable.
Hope you can help me out!
Thanks.
@@jones8732 yes no problem it just provides a switching circuit for powering control box through ignition wire on control box which is connected to throttle wires
(In my case yellow wires; in the video above yellow and blue ,assuming yours yellow and white ) i.e. If it's the throttle wire u are talking about .
Though it might get reversely controlled( not definite ) in that case u can switch wires , anyways it won't have issues on control box try on low current output source first for more secure approach .
Thank you so much this video was really helpful
@Philip Jaziel did you pay?
I just got the same throttle and was trying to figure out to how to connect it, so thank you for making this vid. Since the throttle has a voltage meter and it's directly connected to the battery, do you think a fuse between the two connection is necessary? I've seen some users do it with other voltage meters and others who don't.
If you are connecting it through a controller, I don't think a fuse is necessary. I use the throttle on 36V 30AH lithium-ion battery pack without a fuse and no problem at all. Take a look...ruclips.net/video/c6YgNQg3VM8/видео.html. Thanks for asking...
thank you very much for your help. I have a question. I did the same thing you did in the video. Throttle display turns on but engine won't start. what could be happening? I already checked the connections and they are the same as in the video. Thank you!!
Hello. Sorry to hear. My suggestion is to connect the leaning wires together. If that doesn't work, the next thing I would do is try to switch the phase wires from the controller to the motor- Sometimes the colors don't match. Try to switch one wire each time and test it. THIS is very IMPORTANT, when you switch the phase wires, you also have to align the Hall sensor wires as well. Be careful. Good luck...I hope that will work. Thanks!
Thank you for the details video, but how do you mount the hall sensor, my package actually has the hall sensor separate, where do I put this sensor onto the bike?
Hello, my understanding is that the hall sensors should be already installed in the BLDC motor. I recommend reaching out to the seller on this matter… Thanks!
It could be a hall sensor to mount ob your fork. Then you place a little magnet on your wheel. that setup is used for a speedometer it is seperate from te workings of the motor
Hi . Is it necessary to run this on battery? If it is driven with a 48 volt DC power supply (from AC to DC conversion circuit) will it not run? Or can get damaged? If it gets damaged please tell me the possible reasons.
Thanks in advance
I have not try using a AC to DC converter to run it. But as long as the supply output is DC it should be okay. Try it...let me know if it works. Thanks!
Best Tut we have ever watched. Thank you!!
Thanks so much!!!
Nice video. I was just wondering what the wires were to the motor. I'll need to watch this again when I look at my escooter.
I did a quick fix on my kugoo m4 pro. I had banged/scrapped the wires that go to the motor. When I tried to accelerate then the motor would make like a vibrate noise and had very little power. So looking at the wires, I cut off the rubber protective and seen 2 thin wires were disconnected and the thick wires were fine. I connected the broken wires them by twisting together and duct taped it for now and scooter is working good. Just a quick fix until I get a soldering iron.
Good job! Glad you fixed it. Thanks!
hello, For acceleration, at the level of the average, I note that it is the principle of the potentiometer which is used. I wanted to know what voltage is used? is it 5V or 48V? thank you for answering me dear friend
It is the 48V. Thanks!
Great video. If I want to use this type of motor as a generator can I use just the three phase wires to extract the electricity ?
Great video, how do you put a charge port and where
Super bro ... thanks....and also tell me what will happen ,if I connect the two wires in opposite direction...which is coming from throttle...
It probably won’t turn on... Thanks!
What is that yellow block called where u connect the motor wires to the controller? is it a block terminal or busbar
It is a terminal block/board. They are hard to find. Here is a link for a similar one. amzn.to/4bVWYWK. Thanks for watching.
@@diypotentialsthat link doesn’t work for me
Thanks for the video. What do you think of running the motor without the speed controller. Meaning can i just connect the motor to the highest rate of the battery at once?
From my experience, a BLDC motor needs to be connected to a controller and will not work if directly connected to a battery. Once connected to a controller, you can set the desired current to run the motor. Thanks!
Thank you for the video. I can’t find a diagram on this controller and this is a huge help.
I am trying to figure out what the remaining 4 sets of wires are for that you didn’t cover.
Do you know what the black plug with the red, blue, and black wire is for. Is that peddle assist? I took the controller apart to see if the board had any clues on it. The wires were labeled as Red=+5V, Black=TX, and Blue=RX.
Are the orange and black wires going into the female 3 pin plug the low brake wires? The circuit is labeled BKL on orange and GND on black.
Are the grey and black wires going into the two pin plug the switching wires for forward and reverse? Grey is labeled BACK and Black is GND.
Is the purple wire an battery voltage indicator wire? It is labeled XC
Thank you in advance for your help.
Hello, the black plug with the red, blue, and black wire is peddle assist. The black and orange plug is for Brake. The gray and black plug is for reverse. You are correct. The purple wire is the speedometer. Thanks!
@@diypotentials thank you very much!
Hey bro! I am doing a similar project and was wondering what connection cables you used to connect the 12 Volt motors together to form 48 Volts. I was also wondering if i could just test the motor’s throttle with just one 12 Volt battery just to see if the accelerator is working or if I need the full 48 Volts. Thanks
I used 14 AWG wires to connect the batteries in series to form the 48v. If the controller and motor are rated for 12v or more, you might be able to test with one 12v. If not, you might need the full 48v. Good luck on your project…
@@diypotentials I searched online, but I can't find ones that connect to the battery like your's do. Do you mind sending a link or if there is something else I should search up to find them?
Heyo, great vid. I have two of the same motors you have in 60v 750w and a 60V20AH 3000W lithium ion battery. I want to run both motors together for my project. Any ideas what would be a good setup for running two motors? Thanks much!
Hey Joe, thanks for asking. Sound like an interesting project. I have not tried running two BLDC motors off the same battery and controller, so I won’t be able to offer any helpful suggestions. Maybe the other folks can chime in. Best of luck. Thanks!
Can you provide a link for that bus block or terminal block you used? I can only find ones that distribute across all the cables not just the two terminals connected end-to-end.
Sorry for the late response. Here is the link for a similar one. amzn.to/4bVWYWK. Thanks for watching.
Hello, I am interested in buying one of these, I notice on the web page it says there is a charging wire .. Is there a way to know when charge runs out? Also for a 12V battery, how to know if charge is low and how to charge? thank you sir
When’s dinner mom
I was wondering what were the big alligator clips coming from the battery and connecting to the speed controller. I am thinking of doing a similar project and this part I need
Those were 12 AWG wires with ring terminal connectors and alligator clips. You can find them on Amazon or ebay. You can also purchase the parts separately and put them together. Here is a link just for example. amzn.to/3BRqj3z. I hope this helps. Thanks!
@@diypotentials Thanks
Does the controller step down the voltage for the "on off switch" or do you need a toggle switch that matches that batteries voltage?
The controller is rated for 48v. For the throttle switch, the controller will allow a small amount of voltage to do its job. Thanks!
Hi - Great video! What about the cruise control function? I need to put a steady speed to that motor.
This particular controller does not offer cruise option. Other controllers might offer the option. Thanks.
Current rating of 30amps. Is that the max amp it can handle or the max amp it is drawing from the battery?
The controller is rated at 30A. The rated power is 750W and the rated voltage is 48V. If you are going to apply 30A, you have to lower the voltage level to 24V in order to meet the power rating (24V X 30A = 720W). If you are applying 48V, the current (amperage) should be a round 15A (48V X 15A=720W). Hope this helps. Thanks!
DIY Potentials: Projects & Ideas yes. Thank you
@@diypotentials Isn't it possible to connect a 48V, 30Amp battery? Because the controller handles it down to 15Amp anyway, right?
Fantastic video. One of the best. 👍👍
Thank you!
All of you using brushless motor kits for ebikes, will you tell me what motor you decided to go with and how it worked out for you I'm trying to buy one right now and I'm not sure which one to go with. Thanks
I have a pedal assist PAS set up, can i somehow substitute with the throttle wires?
Thanks for uploading, very helpful video
Hello DIY man. Thank you for making this excellent video! It was must helpful. However, we have a problem with our setup! Every time we try to connect the positive wire to the battery, there is a big soak! We can't find any bad connections though. Do you have any ideas what could cause the sparking?
Hello, that doesn’t sound good. Could be a number of things in the circuit. Check again if the batteries polarities are property connected. Other than that, it is difficult to tell without looking at your set up. So sorry!
@@diypotentials could I get your email address?
@@diypotentials there's really no one out there who can help with this. Then I could send some pictures of the connections.
@@diypotentials could we by-pass the controller to test the motor only?
Hello, I’m in Yellowstone this week. Very limited access to the internet. I don’t think you can bypass the controller to test the motor. My email is diypotentials@gmail.com. I can help more after my vacation on July 5.
I am looking to make a ropetow in the garden powered by a battery. The ropetow just needs a simple start / stop (presumably connect/disconnect the battery) and to tow a person skiing up a hill. Would you reckon this motor would be good enough or would it be too fast or too weak? Honestly, I know it is a very odd question but just curious and looking at the market.
Sounds like a fun DIY project. The motor might not be powerful enough. If you have access to AC power, that might be a better option, then you can use an AC motor with maybe 2 horsepower or so. Brushed DC motor might be easier to connect, but you will need a good size battery bank. You will eventually need to charge the battery. Here are couple of videos that you might find helpful. Good luck! ruclips.net/video/XeOAjB2jfPc/видео.html,
ruclips.net/video/fiUEUrfW2RE/видео.html
@@diypotentials Thanks for the reply. Yeah I was thinking it may not have enough power to tow a person up the hill. I have access to AC power at home but I was trying to get it as portable as possible as the slope isn't near a power source, hence why I thought your video with the battery was quite interesting. The two setups in the videos are very interesting, and using the dolly is a good advantage for transportation but like in the videos, they are connected to the mains. I don't mind having to charge the battery but as you said , a good size battery would be required. I will also keep an eye for a two hp motor or even an engine with a drive. Thanks for your help!
Thank you for the great video what about yhe charging of the battery you didn't say anything about that ?
Check out my video on how to charge a battery. Thanks!
Hi there! Thank you for your great explanation! I have one question. Would the 4x 12V batteries connected in parallel be enough to power, for example, a small buggy? Or would powering something like this require more power? Thanks.
It depends on the power requirement of the buggy. If the buggy is rated for 12v, then the answer is yes. Connecting the batteries in parallel will not increase the voltage level. If the buggy is rated for 48v for example, you have to connect the 4 12v batteries in series to get the 48v needed. I hope this helps!
@@diypotentials Thank you! Another question I had was, would 48V be a high enough voltage to power a 4-wheeled small vehicle like a golf cart for example? I assume 48V is plenty to produce high speeds for a bike since it is low weight, but would 48V be sufficient for achieving high speeds for a heavier vehicle like a golf cart or would a higher voltage need to be used? Once again, thank you so much!
@@pathumdanthanarayana9740 It depends on the golf cart's specific voltage requirement. If it is rated for 48v then you can power it with 48v. If it is rate for 36V for example, then 48v would be to much for the engine to handle. Over time you can damage the engine. The heavier the vehicle, the more energy it will use, which means that it will draw more amps out of the batteries to meet the weight and speed needed.
@@diypotentials Makes sense, thank you for your explanation :)
Im a little confused. So blue and yellow are powered. So what's the difference between the main power line and the small red line? Why does the switch curcuit need both wires powered? Shouldn't one go to ground?
The way I understand it is that the yellow wire is a positive line for the switch, so it needs to be connected to the power source which is the red positive wire from the battery--So it is a parallel circuit. Coming out or at the opposite end of the switch is the blue line, which is still positive, that is why it is connected to the small red wire feeding into the controller, where the current will eventaully return to ground. It is very confusing. Maybe others can explain better. Thanks!
exactly what i was looking for
Thanks! Take care...
Hi and thank you for your great tutorial.
I followed it completely to replace my former thumb throttle.
I tried the new sensor on an external source first and it showed the expected 5V connecting the positive and the ground cable and low Voltage when connecting the Data cable with ground which would increase when I twisted the accelarator.
Connecting the throttle to the controler and motor I quickly found that I had to switch the yellow and white cable in order to not have the display consistently on and the keys without function.
With the cables switched, power supply seemed to be working as intended.
However, while the horn and lights worked well, the accelerator did not work at all.
When measuring with Voltmeter, the data cable of the throttle showed negative Volt value which would not change when I twisted the throttle.
I can not explain to myself why that happened. I tried few other cable combinations but to have the key function working I could not find a way to make the sensor/accelerator work.
Do you have any idea about what went wrong and how I can fix that? I would highly appreciate some help.
Best wishes
Fran
The only thing I can think of is based on your description is that the throttle terminals from the controller and the accelerator might not be compatible. Sounds like you already tried and make sure the positive, negative and signal lines ( green) from both the controller and throttle are matched and connected. Sorry bro. Might be a disconnect in the throttle circuit…
Hey actually that was quite helpful as it made me check Volt output for the Halle sensor at the controller and that is not the 5V needed. Now I can only think that I dont have Ignition and Switch assigned correctly as in my controller they are not easy to find. How can you recognize where to connect the blue and yellow cable from the throttle,. You connect the blue cable in the video to a red cable which comes directly from the main Battery cable or some side connector? Same is for the yellow cable to the Switch. In my controller I couldnt tell which one that is. And my last question. With this controller and throttel, can you connect front and rear light and a horn which all switch off with the key?
I really wuld appreciate an answer as anything helps right now.
Great video, thank you so much. After I change my controller my ebike is not not running in full power, feels more like medium power. The 2 speed switch (low & Hi) is not working. No wires from controller is labeld. Anyone knows what color and how many wires it suppose to be out from the controller?
Hi, please, can you tell me what the blue/black/red connector and the dark (single wire) connector are for? I've the same controller but I don't know what they are for. THANKS!
The blue/black/red connector is for the pedal assist and the dark single wire is for the speed meter. Also, I just added the wiring info in the description. Thanks and good luck on your project!
Can you do a full part list how to charge the batteries?
Nice video, is it possible to wire the motor straight away with battery without controller ? thanks
Thanks of lot I cont connect the connection properly I watch our video now ok thanks again
That’s awesome! Thanks!
hey man nice vid
how would i charge the 12v battery and also would this be good for a drift trike or go kart?
It might work on drift trike, but go kart for sure. In terms of battery, I suggest getting lithium-ion battery pack. They are more expensive than lead acid batteries, but lighter and more energy density. Some of these packs come with a charger. You can explore eBay for different options. eBay should have a12v charger as well. Thanks!
@@diypotentials thanks bro. u the best :)
Thanks for the review. I was thinking of buying this motor, but im rather put off by how noisy it is. Most high quality BLDCs are nearly inaudible; would happily pay double for something more quiet for my project.... but its hard to tell from the aliexpress page how noisy it will be in practice I suppose.
Thanks! I’m glad it was helpful.
1 get a better controller . 2 this is a geared motor
Sir, how many kilometers will a 3 wheeler van rickshaw run with this small battery
So sorry. I don’t know the answer to your question. Thank you.
@@diypotentials I want to explain to you how long this DLDC motor can run with this small battery
I believe the BLDC motors are also called EC motors (electronically commutated) motors. They are often found in fans in the air conditioning industry. They are preferred because of their energy efficient characteristic but they also cost more than PSC (permanent split capacitor) fans.
Totally agree. Thanks!
@@diypotentials My controller doesn't have an ignition wire and I bought a throttle with ingnition key and the throttle has three standard throttle wires and two more wires, the yellow and the blue (ignition) wire. Any thoughts on how to resolve this? Thank you
How many kilometer can I run with this setup in a cycle
Hello, what do I do if my controller doesn't have an ignition switch wire? Please and thank you
An excellent tutorial, thank you very much.
Thank you!
Hi I had a question. Does it matter what awg wire we use for the battery connections? Do you mind sending a link to the wires you used? I have a similar setup but my kit came without battery wires. I have a 48V 33A controller and I wanted to get the most out of it so I was going to use 4 12v 30A batteries. Now I just need to know which wires to purchase
Hello, you won’t be drawing 30A at a time. I recommend a 12 awg wire. Here is the wire current chart. If you think you will be drawing more amps, refer to the chart to the right rating for your project. Thanks! www.solaris-shop.com/content/American%20Wire%20Gauge%20Conductor%20Size%20Table.pdf
Great video bro please help me
Yo i have the brushless motor controler 48v and 250w, motor 48v 250w so max speed on e bike is 36kmh what to do on the controller to go faster
Hey, I am looking to use this type of Motor controller with a microcontroller, so I am having trouble finding out the correct connections. I saw your other tutorial with the small motor driver and there are 4 digital pins, Z/F, VR, Signal and EL. So as far as I know, the equivalent of the VR would be the throttle cable, but aside from that I am kind of lost, as the small motor driver has a Signal pin which I've seen is for sensor feedback, but the only cables related to this are the three hall cables, so I think an equivalent to this would be an external encoder. Now, the Z/F pin stands for direction of the motor, and EL stands for Start/Stop, so I would appreciate if you could provide me some guidance on which cables from this motor driver would be equivalent to be connected to a microcontroller, as I can't seem to find a suitable schematic or datasheet of the motor driver.
Did you ever figure this out?
Can you add a pedal assist on this kind of motor or this is only for full throttle?
The pedal assist is managed by the controller. If the controller has a pedal assist port, then it should work on the motor…
Hi, what would the Ah be of the battery setup and what’s the maximum discharge ?
The battery pack is 7ah. I would discharge it up to 7A only. That would be 336W. I recommend having a higher AH battery pack for a real application. Mine is just for demonstration with no load…
Please how do I get the complete kit and how much does it cost?? Thanks for your anticipated reply
Hello, the links to the items are below the video description. Thanks and good luck on your projects.
Hi I saw one cable with the black pin. I have the same pin and could not get information on that, could you please tell me what that is? Thank you.
Can you give me the time it appears on the video?
Well it work as the motor will spins if I only use a 24v battery on this 48v setup? Because my new setup didn't work when I use a 24v battery on mine 48v setup, is there a battery cut off?
The motor will probably work at 24v but it won’t be as powerful. If it is rated at 48v it will work better at that level. Also, it won’t work at 24v if the controller only run on 36v or 48v. Thanks!
@@diypotentials so like cutoff voltage?
The controller’s cutoff voltage. Thanks!
Really well explained 😀
Hello, were you able to wire your motor or do you still need help?
@@diypotentials I have a 36v 11a rated current motor, 10s 5p (Samsung 30q) battery, along with a speed controller rated for 30a max.. I'm creating a 'light duties' power assist bike trialor.. hopefully the set up will work. I may need a more powerful motor.
Sounds like you are set for the project. Your motor should be sufficient. The motor is I used for my Ebike conversion (ruclips.net/video/c6YgNQg3VM8/видео.html) has a similar rating at 450 Watts. Good luck on your project. Thanks!
Could you make a video on how to change or upgrade a 48volt 1800w system to a 3000w 72volt conversion.. 2023 question
Hi thanks for your time making the videos. I have a motor and controller that won’t work. I can send you a picture and any thoughts.
Not sure, I can help, but send it anyway. Thanks!
Hey can you just use a 12 car battery for this 1000w motor?
It depends on the motor’s rated voltage requirement. If the motor is rated at 48V for example, you will need more than one 12 V batteries.
Basic and really recommend to those who doesnt in wuch of electrical wiring 😘
Thank you! I appreciate the support.
Amazing video! I was looking for this. Just one question - Is it really necessary to buy the motor controller? Is it not possible to control the motor directly from an Arduino (I have seen this in some videos) ? and also MATLAB/Simulink have a Motor Control Toolbox, would it work ? Thanks in advance!
I haven't not try it with Arduino. So I would not be able to say yes or no. The controller is specifically designed for the motor as it also comes with other features for controlling your ebike, scooters, etc. Thanks.
One question the blue wire off the throttle goes to any power source other than the battery right im work with different controller for a brushed set up and as this throttle is universal i need to now figure the blue wire as b4 it was blue and yellow
That is the ignition wire to be connected to the controller.
I'm thinking of building an E-bike with a 48volt 2000watt permenant magnet motor. It doesn't have hall sensors. Any downfalls with my idea?
Check out part I & II of my ebike videos…Powerful Electric Bike Conversion Part II--Lithium-ion Battery Power Boost Upgrade
ruclips.net/video/c6YgNQg3VM8/видео.html
I'm a big guy 360 lb. So I was thinking on my build of mini bike. That has a predator 6 1/2 horsepower Honda clone motor. That seized up I'm switching out I should use a 750 w rickshaw motor because of the tour and I can always gear it up for speed. Very capable builder. And have a good knowledge of electric from building RC cars would this be the way to go to have good pickup. I mean 30 miles an hour is more than enough. What do you think looking at a system just like the one you have and getting a 40 w 40 amp hour battery. Also considering starting to build batteries for people around me for their salon bikes and stuff
Hi how fast its? its got onli 600rps?do its powerful to use on off road buggy? Thanks
same question, same project
HI! Thank you soo much for sharing your thoughts with all of us re ebike controllers! I have a 2008ish 500watt 36volt AC hubmtr. with a 7 speed Shimano, throttle type ebike from the landfill! I can't find Battery, housing, charger and BMS and I believe the controller is in the hub. Connector to the battery has 6 pins 4 large pins and 2 small and the one to the hub has 5 small only two large pins. Spent hours of research, learning but still afraid to buy a possible battery, BMS and charger for it. I have had the ebike for months and I just want to go out get some exercise and experiment with this more. Also read I may need to change the throttle to a potentiometer type and I would need to getting bike rolling for the wheel to start rotating. Not a problem for me to do that and cooling down with fins or holes to stop any overheating is also. Cant I just get a get an LI 20 amp battery kit with BMS, charger with a SW/fuses and not the 30 amp controller you are showing here? I think I saw a 1-5 volt potentiometer on your other video but not sure where to get it? Way grateful for any thoughts on this!
Hello, I'm not familiar with the hub-motor you described, so I won't be able to give any feedback on that. However, I don't think the controller is in the hub. There might be a hall sensor circuit inside the hub, though. But I might be wrong. Also since the motor is rated at 500 watts at 36V, it needs about 14 amps to reach 500 watts at 36V. So if you are planning on getting a controller, any one able to handle 14-20 amps or more would be sufficient, even the 30 amp one so long it is rated for 36V. For battery, a 20 AH (amp-hours) will be sufficient. Of course the more AH the battery has, the more run-time you will get. I found a video that might be more helpful..ruclips.net/video/A8QcNvRh0wM/видео.html. Best of luck. Thanks!
@@diypotentials Thanks again for looking at this and commenting here!
With this I am getting a little more confidence on purchasing the controller you have here along with an Li battery/BMS and charger may just get it to work! I love that throttle you have here too! Not many frills on this ebike so just a Voltage reading is great for my needs. My mistake on the Hub Mtr pin out it's really a 7 pin push and screw on plug. There are 5 small male pins on it. I am guessing these may be 5 vdc for the hall sensors plus the throttle? Not sure yet until I test those leads and look further. If so what you are noting above makes more sense. I know it has a thermistor in the hub for overheating conditions but no direct pinouts for that. Enjoy your day and Kind Regards!
what is the total amperage being supplied? Is it 28A?
For a project I need this motor to turn the other way. I’ve tried swapping two phase wires and it didn’t work. Any suggestions? Thank you
Does your controller have a terminal for reverse?
What should be the battery output for the max speed
How is the controller and where can I get it
Hi any idea how to find a coupler for the MY1020 Brushless motor? I am working on an electric outboard. THANKS!
I would search for electric motor shaft coupler on Amazon or on Google. Thanks!
Please I want to know how to connect it to move in both forward and reverse direction...Thank you
The terminal with the black and gray wires is for reverse..
How long is the runtime on those batteries?
Each of the batteries is rated at 12V 7AH@20hours. For more info on batteries, I found this site very useful. batteryuniversity.com/
@@diypotentials I meant, how long does the motor last on those batteries?
It depends on the amount of power you draw--the more, the shorter runtime, the less the longer runtime. The motor is not connected to a load, so it is consuming only 48 watts (48V X 1A). I connected four 12V batteries in series to get 48V. Therefore, the voltages add up to 48V, but the battery amperage or capacity is still 7Ah or amp hours. So at 48 watts or just drawing 1 amp, I would get 7 hours at 100% discharge. But in reality, batteries work best up to 50% discharge or state of charge, so the runtime unloaded would be around 3.5 hours. However, if you connect the battery to a load that would draw 7 amps or 336 watts (48V X 7A), that would give you 1 hour of runtime at 100% discharge. At 50% state of charge, you would get around 30 minutes. I hope this helps…
@@diypotentials no clue on
Do every controller has same type of connetions?
Can you install this on vehicle not a bike also how fast would it go and do you now any bdcl motors which can be installed in a heavier vehicle
A go kart, but not on a vehicle. The motor is not powerful enough for a vehicle. You might visit evwest.com for possible dc motors for vehicle conversion. Thanks!
can 12v12ah acid lead battery work on 1000w bdlc motor
Lead acid batteries will work on bldc motors, but they have to meet the motor’s voltage requirement. For example, if the motor is rated for 48v, then you have to add 3 more 12v batteries to the circuit. Watch my video on how to connect batteries in series…How to Wire Batteries in Series and Parallel for Beginners!
ruclips.net/video/X6xLmuk7udM/видео.html
Hey, thank you so much, this video saa really helpful, thank you
Awesome! Glad it was helpful. Thank you!
Nice explanation 👍
Thanks!
Great, but i have a question, can this exact same motor work remotely ???
That is beyond my knowledge…sorry. Thanks for asking…
is it okey to use a 48V 600W motor to 750W DC Controller?
It should be ok.
and 750w hub 48v motor with 1000w 52v controller?@@diypotentials
Wonderfull explained. Thnx, it really helped me a lot !
Awesome! Thanks!