When I see a pebble dashed house in the street, I think eww. When I see a pebble dashed house being made for a model railway, I'm like, this is utterly fantastic.
Beautiful building Paul! I like the addition of the concrete footings between the quoins, they finish the walls nicely. Really enjoying watching this series, looking forward to more. Best, John
Hey Jamie, once you start down the scratch built route you won’t turn back. It opens up so many possibilities for buildings and other structural features on the layout you just couldn’t achieve with over the counter products. Give it a go and I bet you won’t be disappointed. Paul
That's really taking shape Paul and it is amazing how much detail you start noticing about a building when you really look even if you have seen it many times before. The moulding around the base really does add something and finishes the wall nicely. I will add this to the list for scratch building at some point. A certain Art Deco Hotel may have recently gone to the top of the list for me 😉. Stephen
It does very suddenly appear different from all the other viewings since the paint went on. I think you’re right too, the lower mounding just helps set it off a bit more. I’d love to see an N gauge version of this carried out but even more than that I want to see that Art Deco hotel. Did you check out Frankland? Paul
@@GalgormHall Yes I did and thanks for the tip off about that layout. Some superb modelling. One of his buildings has many features of a draft sketch I did after your comment, which is a cross between the Midland Hotel at Morecambe, an office building I used to pass near Leicester Square when I worked in London, and an apartment building just around the corner from me here in Edinburgh. All I have to do now is to work out how to pull off the flowing lines and to build the thing. Stephen
Great update Paul, really enjoying this build but, blimey, those chimneys were a bit fiddly but came out OK in the end once I had got the hang of doing the mitres. I can't post an update yet as still waiting for a paint delivery (my nearest model shop is 30 miles away) but will do when all painted. Cheers Steve
Look forward to seeing your progress Steve. The chimney sections are a bit fiddly but well worth the effort for extra realism. Just wait to you see what you need to do for the window frames, fiddly and a little frustrating at times! Something to look forward to. Paul
Great video and lessons. Maybe I am weird, but priming is one of the stages of scratch-building I do like, because it's the first time all the different parts form what appears to be a cohesive whole. If that makes any sense.
Not weird at all and I totally get that. Prior to priming the build still looked pretend, so to speak. Add that colour and pick out the first details the build begins to appear more life like. Thanks as always for the comments. Paul
Cheers Paul, really enjoying watching your work come together. BTW did you say your craft blade was "as blunt as get out"? Not heard that one before, made me chuckle. Love expressions like that, so cheers.
Thanks Kevin and I did indeed say that. It’s perhaps a Northern Ireland thing. I’m aiming to be the Adrian Dunbar (Line Of Duty) of the Model Railway world. 😂 Paul
Hi Paul following your video to make the scratch build my first had to stop for a while but back on it now - hey trying to cut the brick plasticard but it very fragile and it just seems to all crack up on me - any tips you make it look so easy !
Hi Mark. If your plasticard is cracking it may be because it has become brittle. I’ve discovered that in the past with older sheets having been stored for some time. I’m afraid it’s a case of throwing it away and buying new. Paul
Hi John, you sure can. In the case of this build I went on the height of the door. A OO gauge doorway is approximately 28mm so using that I could get a rough idea of how the rest of the building would measure up. On a brick built structure I’ve also counted the course of brick from ground to roof and transferred that to the plasticard version and worked out spacing between windows by counting the number of bricks in a row. Even with all that some of it just comes down to how it looks to the eye when the initial structure is built and small modifications are made accordingly. The beauty of any real building is there is no one size fits all with many variations on height seen in one row of buildings. I hope that is of some help to you. If you need anything more, just ask. Paul
Great job mate it's a stoats...a wee tip..stick some of that sandpaper maybe 240 gt on the back of yer ruler n it'll no slip cutting the card wee tip 2 you can use your plastic cement to stick plasticard on anything but shiny surface.put a line of it on the back of the plastic edgeing your doing n leave it a few second to soften the plastic then stick it on.if it's revell contacta or similar...wee tip 3 your chimneys with Slater's can be done without cutting all four sides is mark each edge where the corners are n again a line of cement on each corner as it'll soften the plastic enough to bend without breaking. I use methylene chloride the base product that makes plastic cement n they put retarder iin it to thicken it.tamiya super thin ,£6.00 for 135ml... methylene chloride 5ltrs £6.00 ...you can get up to a lot of plastic fabrication with it.its fantastic stuff...awsome trick wae the sandpaper I did that 35yr ago wae Hornby buildings .
Looks great Paul, ( it's usually called a plinth at the bottom)👍🏻
Thanks PJ, i didn’t know how that, I will refer to it as that from now on. 😀 Paul
When I see a pebble dashed house in the street, I think eww. When I see a pebble dashed house being made for a model railway, I'm like, this is utterly fantastic.
Looking good so far Paul.
Thanks Geoff. Paul
Beautiful building Paul! I like the addition of the concrete footings between the quoins, they finish the walls nicely. Really enjoying watching this series, looking forward to more.
Best, John
Thanks John, I think those mouldings at the base have certainly helped it. Paul
Really enjoying this scratch build series Paul, hopefully this is the first of many 😁
Thanks Jason. I’ve already got plans for the next build after this so stay tuned. Paul
@@GalgormHall are you still modelling?
Great modeling there Paul. Looking forwards to the next installment.
Thank you Dave, appreciate the comments. Paul
Really coming along now. Looks superb.
Cheers Mal, beginning to look like something. Paul
Wow This is getting better with each video so I give it a 10 stars ************
Wow! Thank you. It’s getting more like a real building now with some paint added. Paul
Really enjoying this series Paul.
Fantastic skills. Great work, and it's certainly increasing my desire to scratch build in the future.
Hey Jamie, once you start down the scratch built route you won’t turn back. It opens up so many possibilities for buildings and other structural features on the layout you just couldn’t achieve with over the counter products. Give it a go and I bet you won’t be disappointed. Paul
Great instruction video about scratch building!! Thanks Paul! Cheers Onno.
Thank you Onno. Paul
This is turning into a beautiful build Paul. Looking forward to the next installment. Regards, David.
Thank you David. Slowly but surely it’s getting there. Paul
Excellent work Paul Its really coming together nicely now looking forward to the next instalment
cheers .. Pete
Thanks Pete, it’s getting there. Paul
That's really taking shape Paul and it is amazing how much detail you start noticing about a building when you really look even if you have seen it many times before. The moulding around the base really does add something and finishes the wall nicely. I will add this to the list for scratch building at some point. A certain Art Deco Hotel may have recently gone to the top of the list for me 😉. Stephen
It does very suddenly appear different from all the other viewings since the paint went on. I think you’re right too, the lower mounding just helps set it off a bit more. I’d love to see an N gauge version of this carried out but even more than that I want to see that Art Deco hotel. Did you check out Frankland? Paul
@@GalgormHall Yes I did and thanks for the tip off about that layout. Some superb modelling. One of his buildings has many features of a draft sketch I did after your comment, which is a cross between the Midland Hotel at Morecambe, an office building I used to pass near Leicester Square when I worked in London, and an apartment building just around the corner from me here in Edinburgh. All I have to do now is to work out how to pull off the flowing lines and to build the thing. Stephen
Haha, the scratch build bug has well and truly bitten. Can’t wait to see the start of it all. Paul
Great update Paul, really enjoying this build but, blimey, those chimneys were a bit fiddly but came out OK in the end once I had got the hang of doing the mitres. I can't post an update yet as still waiting for a paint delivery (my nearest model shop is 30 miles away) but will do when all painted. Cheers Steve
Look forward to seeing your progress Steve. The chimney sections are a bit fiddly but well worth the effort for extra realism. Just wait to you see what you need to do for the window frames, fiddly and a little frustrating at times! Something to look forward to. Paul
LOL can't wait!
Really enjoying this series Paul, progress is coming along nicely!
Looking forward to more.
Richard
Thanks Richard. Paul
Good stuff, it’s coming along nicely there! 👍
Thanks Paul. Paul 😉
Great video again. Amazing the detail you achieve.
Great video nice to see some painting keep up the good work 😀
Thanks Roger, the painting has just begun to pull it together. Paul
Again very very fascinating and it’s looking good thank you look forward to the next video .....:0).....Chris
Thank you Chris. Paul
Paul greetings, really informative and helpful, will probably have a try myself at some point, thanks for sharing … cheers … steve :)
Thank you Steve, appreciate the feedback. Paul
Great video and lessons. Maybe I am weird, but priming is one of the stages of scratch-building I do like, because it's the first time all the different parts form what appears to be a cohesive whole. If that makes any sense.
Not weird at all and I totally get that. Prior to priming the build still looked pretend, so to speak. Add that colour and pick out the first details the build begins to appear more life like. Thanks as always for the comments. Paul
Cheers Paul, really enjoying watching your work come together. BTW did you say your craft blade was "as blunt as get out"? Not heard that one before, made me chuckle. Love expressions like that, so cheers.
Thanks Kevin and I did indeed say that. It’s perhaps a Northern Ireland thing. I’m aiming to be the Adrian Dunbar (Line Of Duty) of the Model Railway world. 😂 Paul
Hi Paul following your video to make the scratch build my first had to stop for a while but back on it now - hey trying to cut the brick plasticard but it very fragile and it just seems to all crack up on me - any tips you make it look so easy !
Hi Mark. If your plasticard is cracking it may be because it has become brittle. I’ve discovered that in the past with older sheets having been stored for some time. I’m afraid it’s a case of throwing it away and buying new. Paul
Can I ask how do you do you work out your scale.
Hi John, you sure can. In the case of this build I went on the height of the door. A OO gauge doorway is approximately 28mm so using that I could get a rough idea of how the rest of the building would measure up. On a brick built structure I’ve also counted the course of brick from ground to roof and transferred that to the plasticard version and worked out spacing between windows by counting the number of bricks in a row. Even with all that some of it just comes down to how it looks to the eye when the initial structure is built and small modifications are made accordingly. The beauty of any real building is there is no one size fits all with many variations on height seen in one row of buildings. I hope that is of some help to you. If you need anything more, just ask. Paul
Good Day Paul, what happened to video 1.3 ? I cannot find it.
Hi Alan, for some reason it wasn’t in the Scratch build playlist so I’ve added it now. Hopefully you can find it now. Paul
@@GalgormHall Thank you
Great job mate it's a stoats...a wee tip..stick some of that sandpaper maybe 240 gt on the back of yer ruler n it'll no slip cutting the card wee tip 2 you can use your plastic cement to stick plasticard on anything but shiny surface.put a line of it on the back of the plastic edgeing your doing n leave it a few second to soften the plastic then stick it on.if it's revell contacta or similar...wee tip 3 your chimneys with Slater's can be done without cutting all four sides is mark each edge where the corners are n again a line of cement on each corner as it'll soften the plastic enough to bend without breaking.
I use methylene chloride the base product that makes plastic cement n they put retarder iin it to thicken it.tamiya super thin ,£6.00 for 135ml... methylene chloride 5ltrs £6.00 ...you can get up to a lot of plastic fabrication with it.its fantastic stuff...awsome trick wae the sandpaper I did that 35yr ago wae Hornby buildings .
Jim, three top tips there, thanks for that. The sandpaper one is a particular gem, I’ll be giving that a shot before I next model. Paul