EXACTLY. I have changed the cap and rotor three times and changed the crankshaft sensor. I noticed rotational movement today when I changed the rotor again. This is a very informative video. Right to the point. Thank you.
Thank you very much ! I have been chasing this ghost for a long time and with your advice. I finely broke down and bought a new distributor and i'm so impressed with your diagnostics, I just wanted to give you two thumbs up. Your video Rocks and my truck runs great.
Thank you Kevin, I have a 96, 289K miles, and I have just started having the multiple misfire code, and a rough idle, for over a year now. No performance issues, just rough idle, and mpg not as good as it use to be. Changed the O2 after the CC... I have not started it yet... because now I will check the distributor before I start it again,.. as it starts rough as well... rough meaning not a smooth start, but starts right up. A guy I met told me to check the teeth on the distributor drive gear as well. So with this much mileage, I should have realized that this part needs attention as well. Great Video... TJ
2005 Astro Cargo van currently with ~249,000 miles- started having the exact problem you described about a year ago. At first, it was just a random misfire once or twice, then it would settle into trying its damnedest not to run at all. I would cut it off and let it sit a few minutes, and it would run fine and continue to do so for a couple to several weeks or more. Then, out of nowhere, it would do it again. OBD was throwing up MAF codes, so I replaced it and the IAC when the problem first started - to no avail. It has become more often lately so I changed the plugs and wires today and they were pretty well out of spec, but not the disaster I expected to see. So I decided to check the distributor cap and rotor. They were like you said, looked rough, but not bad enough to be causing all the fuckery I'm getting from the van. I Googled "rotor, 4.3L Vortec" and this video was the first hit. Watched it, walked out to the van and checked the rotor (still mounted) and mine makes is worse than the one you have in the vid. If I had seen this a year ago, you have no idea how much time, money, and lost work hours it could have saved me. I'm not a very religious man, but God bless you for putting this video up. Thank you so much!.
My 97 Chevy Vortec v6 (300.000km)is misfireing when cold and is acting wierd now and then. Watched this video and checked my distrubutor. And holy shit! it had a huge play!
So glad this was the first suggestion by google. I was going to simply replace the cap, rotor, plug, wires and coil. Because of this video, I now know I was not considering other important components. Intermittent misfires every 30 seconds or so at idle which caused noticeable reductions in oil pressure during the event. Also misfires the same at speed by the way. Hard starts as well. Already tested and ruled out both cam and crank shaft sensors. Thank you for sharing this VERY potential missing link! Now to study the proper replacement method before I tackle the distributor. I learned from another chevy that it wasn't "plug and play". Took me 3 hours of almost screaming to learn that. lol
Hi Kevin, thank you for the video. I have an 03 Astro Cargo that was running poorly and this video inspired me to check my distributor. I ordered a rebuilt Delco (and they sent a new one!) and changed it out. The difference is amazing!! I was just getting a code for cylinder 5, but I have gotten that with a failed distributor cap previously and also with a vacuum leak. One thing I have to add is that you don't need to be obsessed with finding TDC on number one cylinder, just mark some reference points for installed and how much it rotates when removed, and you are good to go. Replacement took 30-40 total minutes, including removing and replacing the doghouse engine cover.
Wow, I waited a few months and promised I would leave good feedback if the solution worked. I looked for you to come through with my promise. You fixed a problem for me that has been plagued me for YEARS! not even shop owners knew the issue. I kept going through caps and rotors. I sprayed the engine down for shorts, nothing. I used expensive fuel, nothing. I f-ed up my cat due to the misfiring. Finally your video came along. I can't thank you enough.
Thanks, that is exactly the problem I'm having on my 2002 Blazer. I checked and it to was sloppy as hell. Even worse that the one you demonstrated. I picked up a new distributor and will luck everything will go good tomorrow AM when I stick it in. Great post..Thanks again.
Thanks for the video Kevin!! I've been thinking my spider fuel injectors wetter time culprit to my hiccups but I recently changed the distributor on my 99 Chevy 4.3 and I'm living in a dream now' it drives like butter!!!!
Well I am glad the video was of some help guys. Hope that fixed your problem Henry and not sure on the cam/crank relearn dream, I have always ran them just to "be sure".
hey kevin, i have a 2001 gmc sonoma with the 4.3. ni play in the distributor, but am getting p0300 and p0306. replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. idles fine but rough while in reverse/drive. any ideas
Wish I would've seen you're video earlier. A mechanic told me it was the fuel pump that it didn't have enough pressure.Spent $300 on a pump and didn't fix shit!!! Pulled the distributor and is worn going to install new in the morning hopefully it works
This is very kool Kevin ! Thank you for this Tech tip . My 97 4 door Blazer had the exact same issue with the distributor . There are a few Tech tips on RUclips about the 4.3 Vortec distributor , they all seem to only cover the issues with worn gears....NOT the slop that occurs in the thrust washer . I have checked my rotor free play and it is exactly as you display here . I have already updated my Spider assembly with the new Multi Port system , i got a Delphi unit and the Blazer is almost purring like a kitten . All that is left for me to do now is get the new Distributor . I ordered a "White Performance" all aluminum replacement . On a side note...i have heard that if you are only replacing the Distributor assembly, a crank/cam relearn is not needed . From all i have read is that only if you change or otherwise tamper with the Crank sensor , then and only then will a Cam/Crank relearn be needed . Of course i stand to be corrected...:)
Kev, THANKS ! Your video had enlightened me and helped fixed my problem. I never thought of looking there before seeing your post. I replaced and upgraded the Spider Injection Unit ,feeling sure it was fuel delivery. Found OEM at Amazon for $ 32.71, COMPLETE , plug and play. Thanks much.
Hi Kevin, My 2003 4.3L Blazer has been running perfectly but then all of a sudden it stalled on the highway at a red light. The engine would crank over and sometimes it would run with a very rough idle and misfire and eventually die. Twice I disconnected the battery and the it fired right up and ran fine for about a minute and then died again. Then I waited about 20 minutes and it fired up again perfectly and stayed running so I quickly drove home without a hitch. Now it starts up fine everytime I turn it on and stays running, however I don't want to drive it anywhere until I know for sure what it is. Last year I changed the ignition coil, the cat, and 2 weeks ago I changed out all 6 spark plugs. The wires are in great condition so I didn't change those. I just checked the fuel system and it's working great. I checked the distributor today after watching your video and it has some serious play in it, about the same as the video. What I'm wondering is, if the distributor is worn out like it is in your video will the engine always fail or can it turn into an intermittent problem? I'm very confused to what the actual problem is and I want to make sure that it's not just the distributor. Thank you, Troy
I'm so happy to have come across this video. I recently did the head gaskets, heads, carb, intake, etc on my chevy Nova and I reused my distributor and since doing the work it has ran like complete and utter garbage. It knocks like crazy (from distributor) and just wants to stall and sounds like it misfires. I've checked timing and TDC so many times that I could do it in my sleep and until now it didn't occur to me that the shaft could be bad on my distributor or I have excessive play or something of this nature. Going to inspect the distributor tomorrow and give it a shot.
Thank you for the time you took making this video!!! My 2500 its starting to backfire and I was about to do a tune up. I’m checking the distributor thanks to you
Thank you soooo much for this video, I've been chasing down this problem for about 2 years. I have MSD 8366 small cap with ext coil. I've went through 3 gal bucket of plugs with all the times NGK told me to replace the gas fouled plugs. Changed injectors, compression, leakdown, fog manifold. Floating ground. Etc. Thanks again.
Hey there Kevin First off, just wanted to say thanks for your helpful video's. Helped me understand exactly what is going on under my hood. (If it were running properly). So I'm having trouble with a 2002 4.3L s10... It started with, if I let it sit for more than 12 hours. It wouldn't start just crank and crank. Usually killed the batt. Well turned out it was the fuel pump. Put a new one in. Let sit 2 days starts no prob. It had a Lil stutter maybe 1 cylinder missing once every like 15 seconds. Not a huge prob. But the guy I bought the truck from said that he had a straight pipe put on. Replacing a bad cat. And he also told me, the rear o2 sensor wasn't there he didn't make a hole for it. But it still ran OK. A month and a half after putting the new fuel pump. I was driving about 30mph tried to give it gas and the rpms. Didn't move so I put it in neutral and tried gas again and the rpms. Slowly just trickled down and I stalled. I pulled over and checked Schrader valve for pressure. Just a tiny little squirt then stops. Gauge it and there's 0 pressure. I can here the pump kick OK for a seconds. And I think that's where the little squirt comes from. So I replace pump relay, and the ECM 2 fuse nope still just buzzes up and nothing even when I'm crankin. So I assume OK guess the guy gave me a shitty pump. Bought new pump & filter same thing. Buzzz 0 pressure. So I say screw it and had it looked at. Here's what he told me, "Well the reason u had no pressure is because the pump relay was in the wrong spot." (When I had to tow it to his shop I had my filter lose because at this point I was thinking a pitched Line so I was seeing where the pressure stopes so I took the relay out so I could turn the key and not have the pump kick on.) I left it in the center council. And I told him that's what I did with it. I looked at what he, "put back in the right spot" And he took the DRL relay and put it in the pumps relay spot. Witch is the wrong relay it was the black one not the gray one like it was supposed to be. OK then he said that the distributer was of by 90° And that I have a misfire from a bad it sensor. I went out and tried to start the truck..... It ran like complete garbage stalled like three times. Sit there and jerk really hard. Would drop to 100 rpm dam near off then just pop right back up to 1200 rmp. So I get it home like 15 min. And put it in park and shut it off. Started it right back up and it idled smooth and ran great. Shut it off for 5 hours starts right up. I let it sit for about 12 hours. Does the same thing doesn't want to stay running till you keep it running for about 15 min then restart it and bam. Runs good again????? My argument was with the fact I haven't had good 02 sensor since I bought the truck 5months ago. And it was running great till it stalled and now he " fixes" it and the only thing wrong is an 02 sensor.. I'm not buyin it. But still leaves me with what is making it do this??
P 0300 random misfire. Hook up timing light and observe the strobe flash on more than one cylinder . See double flash and occasional drop out ? pull cap off and check rotor for up and down play while twisting rotor left and right . any more play than damn little is too much. I pulled my dist out and found irregular wear on the gear teeth and twice the play as yours. New dist dropped in same way as old came out . cleared the code , disconnected battery hooked test lamp between harness posts turned ign on for 10 min or so . reconnected battery , drove and code came back , cleared code , disconnected batt ,shorted harness terminals turned on ign for 25 min or so . 85mi so far no code. THANK YOU VERY MUCH GOOD SIR ! V8 1997 MI on dist , may be 250,000 mi
This information is gold - I said to me self, you know that, ya I'm rusty as hell, been driving Fords. Back about 1977 We had a 73 350 Pontiac Firebird and the Idle would increase and decrease. I noticed when turning over with a remote start switch doing dwell that it would rise and fall where points ride dist cam and change dwell readings. Turned out the Spring Washer between drive gear and body was flat and cracked, maybe 60,000 miles. I also worked on a 4.6 Blazer and a pro shop replaced the Map and same problem, hard start lack of power. Ran it hard after dark because I could smell a welding like heat. Sure had pretty Red Glow💥. The lesson is the MAP will set code for map because the air flow through intake and exhaust is reduced intermittently as converter plugs like a diabetics arteries!PO 101 me think?🤔🤐
Thanks, man! The last year, I had a random missfire, but never caught a code. Fixed a bunch of things... even the phantom howling noise that no one but me could hear.
I just cleaned my distributor cap but failed to check if it had any loose play. I'll make sure to try that next if my misfire pops up again. Thank you bro bro
Just actually had one today thanks very much for your video I had a 4.3 with a misfire and couldn't figure out what the hell was going on watched your video check the distributor pulled it out sure as shit the same thing just ordered a new distributor today for it and in oil change big-time first time in 25 years and I've ever ran into this thank you
Gonna Check This Tonight,I Have A 94 caprice 4.3 v8 with this same issue just today changed the mass air flow sensor and still doing the same thing. i have the plug wires cap and rotor to change out still.. will letya know if mine was the same way. thanks alot bud very helpful video!
Thanks Kevin, probably my issue right there. mine moves way more than that one up and down (not so bad back and forth), Anyways will change it but probably that's my issue also as I'ver checked everything else and seems fine.......
Kevin, I have a random misfire in my 1956, 235 Chevy engine. I have replaced the plugs, wires, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, coil, rebuilt the carb (1 barrel) and replaced the vacuum advance. I had some intake manifold leaks and the vacuum advance was not working. Now that I've done all of that, it still has a random misfire when it warms up. My last resort sounds like the distributor. I do have Pertronics Electronic Ignition.
Thanks, I have this same issue on my 03 replaced all kinds of stuff and it didn't fix it, now I just checked my dist. and I have a lot of play so now I'm going to try to replace the distributer
Same issue with my 96 chevy astro with 230k miles. Has the same amount of slack too. Ordered a new distributor from eBay for $40 bucks. We'll see what happens... It wants to start, but just can't. I'll follow up with the results. Good video and thanks for sharing!
Big Tex Trucker I have a 1994 GMC Safari, my distributor has play like the one in the video, and has a misfire no matter what I do. Everything else but the distributor been replaced. Likewise just ordered a distributor, waiting for it to arrive. I'm curious of the results of yours, as I have a 1997 Astro van too.
took my 02 blazer to shop, bucking, 200000 on it didn't wanna mess with #3 cyl, still ran bad after tune up bought cam sensor, went to put in & eye could not believe tha slop in distributor & that's y eye hate people working on my vehicle, they out to make money not to fix my problem. Thanks 4 video. Useful.
The 6 fire mark on the distributor correlating to the top dead center marks on the harmonic balancer and engine is false. During a distributor replacement the only way the 6 fire mark on the distributor can be used is if you first put the old distributor rotor button on the 6 fire mark before removing the old distributor, and then you can use the 6 mark on the new distributor. If you align the engine at top dead center using the marks on the harmonic balancer then the distributor rotor cap will be pointing nearer to cylinder 1 of which is not marked on the distributor housing.
Great info just picked up a 98 Silverado with a 4.3 has a terrible misfire guy changed the cap rotor plugs wires coil cam sensor and it didnt go away I'm pretty sure this is what's going on with it.
It's a pretty good ignition system and the cap being a known week spot often distracts from the distributor being considered as they problem. Especially since the Vortech style engines use a soft drive gear to prevent camshaft wear.
Thanks for the video on the distributor wear. I've been chasing this ghost for months. And your video nailed it. I just subscribed. Thanks soooooo much!!
cleanview70 had that done to two of my cars on our car port and one of them is black . Showed up real nice all the way down the drivers side . Never found who did it . Cowards . A lot of people are jealous of videos people post and are very immature .
Hey Kevin, I am currently working on my 1997 chevy S-10 with a 4.3 vortec which will not start or fire. Before it quit running a few months ago, it would misfire occasionally, but would always straighten up and run fine. One day the truck just stopped running while I was driving, like I had just turned the key off. I have fire going to the distributor, but no spark coming out. My distributor has about three times the amount of up and down movement and about a 1/8 of an inch of side to side movement.
I have been having the same issue. Missfire code plus the truck has major issues starting. The trouble started very slow for about 2 years then over the course of 6 months it basically just quit starting. Replaced the Fuel Injection spider which was in fact bad, then nearly every sensor connected to the ignition. Never once did I think to replace the whole distributor until a mechanic friend suggested it. I'm about to buy a new one and see if it fixes the problem. I know for a fact mine has at least as much play as the one in your video.
dts642 I have a 2001 blazer , same codes , now it wont start , I changed the distributor a year ago , and it's 100 miles away ( and no one there to diagnose it correctly "to know for sure whatis exactly wrong & " part to buy" & get it running & drive it home , all the book indicates is that it's the crankshaft sensor "IS LIKELY THE PROBLEM " but don't have the money to keep buying parts and guessing , already put a fuel pump in it , it will crank but wont start ... so it's either have it flat bedded home for 70.00 or cheapest price or buy the part 65.00 and take a chance on that , any ideas guys .?
Jonathan Rogers I have replaced the fuel pump, crank sensor, cam sensor, coil, ignition control module and the fuel injection spider. All my codes but the Mutiple Miss fire have gone away. I know for a fact distributor has excessive play. It is possible you got a bad distributor. I can get mine to start after trying for a while but it's hard on the starter. I just parked it and I will be swapping the distributor when I get board enough. Good Luck man I know how frustrating this problem is.
was chasing a misfire for about a month in my 01 astro...changed all the usual stuff and could not shake it....this was the exact problem..GM used cheap plastic ones from the factory...spend the extra and get the all aluminum one..
yup . I got a distributor from oreilys . got the random misfire code. figured out the distributor had a WHOLE bunch of free play. It was not a bad distributor; It was designed wrong , period. It would spin itself completely out of time. I then dropped the $300 on a distributor from Chevy. That fixed it.
nice video my only suggestion for a novice would to have a good distributor to compare it to. I know not easy to do when you have to buy the comparison part.
My 2002 5.7 gmc van misfire p300. After 2 years got so bad could not drive. 3 mechs gave up. It only misfired only when i reversed it. Then forward it gradually got worse as a drove. On highway Blinking engine light. As time passed i had to park it. Tryed new Distributor kit . New plugs wires. New spider injectors. I got broke and the Auto store rich. Sold it.
Very well Kevin...:) I guess it's always a good thing to do if you are changing parts in the Ignition system . I will have to see if my OBDII program on my lappy has a Cam/Crank relearn sequence . I have read about how to perform this adjustment by driving the vehicle , but that seems a very tedious procedure indeed...lol . I am using "Scan XL" and "Pro Scan" OBDII programs on my laptop . I also have a Bluetooth OBDII Dongle that is working well so far . I simply have never seen any Relearn tabs or sections in any of these programs....of course i may just not be looking in the correct places for it .
I have a 1995 1500 V6 4.3 it's giving me code 44. Running lean I have changed tps,air intake module. 02 sensor. I've cleaned the throttle body. My rpms at idle are only 600 when I drive it's going and coming out of drive and overdrive..I don't know what else to do. If anyone has had this problem please email me jgardiner393@gmail.com thanks
James Gardiner Have your "Spider Injector" setup that resides under your intake manifold checked for leakage. These are very well known for missfire issues...and in fact...along with the symptoms described here by Kevin about the sloppy distributor...also another common issue with the Vortecs....the Spider injector is one of the main causes of missfires . You can perform some basic tests yourself without so much as even turning a wrench or even opening the hood . First....does the car have hard starting or particularly long cranking , more specifically after sitting with the engine off for a while ? Does it feel like the engine is "Surging" while driving down the road ? Does it have a very rough or intermittent idle ? As far as the 600 rpm idle is concerned....i have learned that when these engines are operating within their parameters...an idle of about 600- 650 rpm is normal . If the Spider assembly or fuel regulator have never been serviced...there is a very strong chance that may be where your problems are . BUT...please do not spend your hard earned dollars throwing parts at it....generally there is one root cause for most symptoms . Just remember to systematically go through everything until you nail the culprit...:)
Getting harder to find videos about the basics, everyone is is using meters and scanners and testing sensors and PCMs all the other modern crap, I have a 93 Chevy K 1500 and no sensors or computer, just the basics, so it should be simpler, right, the one thing I haven't pulled and that's the distributor, hopefully I'll find something that will account for the rough running, I've checked everything else, it's got to be it, I hope... Thanks for the video.
Hello.. thanks for the video.. I got the same problem, i keep getting the random misfire/ cyl #4 misfire! just cyl#4 and so far i have replaced fuel filter, spider injector(twice), distributor, spark plugs, wires (twice!) and it ran fine for a day and today just got it back... same codes... random and cyl#4... Fuel pressure is good, Cylinder compression is great... IDK what to look for any more... its getting under my skin!
It's odd, I've replaced the distributor 4 times, each time it was loose and each time it runs excellent again. Trying to think what could be destroying distributor so easy? Oil pump issue? (The oil pump is driven by the distributor.
Kevin @ 2:34, "Stop!" "Pull the cap, check this..." For once , I think I'm gonna heed the advice of "some guy named Kevin on YT", and check the slop in my distributinator inator! Cause I surely was about to pull the plenum cover thinking that that stupid spider leaking just enough to make it run like crap , but not enough to cripple it... Anyway, thanks for the video Kevin. And thanks even more for making it succint and on point, rather than 16 minutes of redundant dumbassery like some of the other videos out there!
At 230,000 miles on my 95 Blazer, the old distributor had almost no wear on the gear teeth but 0.031" of up/down play. After seeing your video, I decided to buy a new one. However, the brand new distributor has 0.021" of up/down play! The one in your video is moving about the same amount. I'm wondering about the accuracy of the information you've presented here where you stated "it should barely move". Either it's supposed to have some amount of up/down play, or these brand new distributors are no good. The engine runs somewhat better but something still does not feel right about the idle. Everything else was checked and ruled out and the distributor was the last thing on the list. Hoping the new one is also bad so I can get something better. Otherwise, maybe update your video to mention the acceptable tolerances for these.
Great video, i pulled my cap and found rotor cap was loose and i had some side to side play but no up and down. Thanks for the info. Not sure if cleaning it will stop my error though.
I have a 2000 astro that I replaced the CPI with mpi, timed it correctly but get a can crank error. on this engine the can sensor controls the fuel trim . It seems lazy or running rich , my question is can you do a can crank relearn on a 2000 4.3 I have read yes and no but you said you did it on the 96 . thanks
I've got a 98 Honda Prelude. Crank no-start situation here. The night before I changed the cap and rotor. Next day drive it to work. Leaving I start it and immediately it dies out. And hasn't stayed since just cranks but won't catch. Checked the fuel pump, good. As well as the relay, sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body, nothing. Wires, plugs, cap, rotor, all new. In at a loss with what the hell it could be. Any thoughts?? Oh and I changed the coil.. nothing.
what is crank and cam relearn procedure? I did all that, new distributor, new spider injectors, all new electronic sensors (10 or 12), coil. I still have a random miss and the engine will just stop running with no warning. pull off the side of the road, try to restart, it appears to have no spark - will not start, then pull it in to a garage and 8 hours or a day later it will restart with nothing repaired! . the tester says random misfire.! sometimes the engine light comes on and tester says, random misfire.
I would defiantly look at the distributor. Make sure the cap is in good shape along with the rotor button. If you have the low pressure A/C line that runs directly above the distributor it has been known to drip condensation onto the dist. and cause corrosion in the cap.
I think thats the problem with my distributor. Idk if mine has that much play, but it does have play. And a misfire, i just changed the fuel injection spider unit.
Just replaced the one in my 5.7.Put in a billet distributor off ebay.Runs great but my mechanic tried to do a cam sensor set and crank relearn but his tool kept showing an error.I wonder if its the dizzy.I've bought chevy distributors rebuilt by cardone that were junk.
I got a 01 Astro with a 4.3, and my mechanic told me I need a new distributor. And I get a random misfire. He said the distributor was made of plastic! I haven't replaced it yet. I know I've put quite a few new distributor caps on it. Now I have a 335 engine code, van tries to stall, every-time I stop. Runs like crap. I going to try a new crankshaft position sensor first, with a shim, as noted in a GM service bulletin. Because it's cheaper then a new distributor. Van has 145K miles on it. Oil pressure is low, getting by with 20w50 oil. Noisy engine, I'm afraid it's about ready to throw a rod... I'm just trying to make it last a little longer. Just started a new job, and it's a long drive. Trying to save money for another vehicle to get to work. Van only get 12MPG. Thanks for your help and advice. I'm just tying to get through this. Van is dying :-( And I will miss her when she's gone. Plus tranny is acting up... I got my monies worth out my Astro. Wish they didn't stop making them. I don't like any of the new vans. So, I guess I drive her till she dies...
my 93 s10 blazer 4 door Tahoe got timing adjusted then after I left the shop...two blocks later it died. smelled something burn and person fixed it. the old one melted
Was he having the truck fall flat on it's face when he got on the gas? Surging while the vehicle was in gear, and he was on the brake? (for example sitting at a red light?) Any hesitation with starting the vehicle?
I got a skip that developed today.. I did the plugs months ago. PLUGS, not wires, and this past winter--the distributor would make noises when the temp was below 30 degrees.. I saw another video that says not to get the re-made distributors cause they dont line up.. Top to bottom that is--off center. So, if that distributor moves--replace it with factory made... I'd do it now, but it is raining. Thanks though..
Can tha fix the problem on my vecause i do have a spark and i aready change 2 spider injectors and the misfire just skips from 1 cylinder to another cylinder ... but i do hav a spark on the cylinder that is misfiring
hope this helps me out! I have an '01 sierra 5.3, sometimes it will fire right up at 12.5v (on my digital meter) and then she will hesitate and crank and crank with no fire at 11.9v, then sometimes it will fire but rpms will be at like 100 then climb up.
It sounds like to me and I've had this happened. But the fuel pump... And filter! When you change the pump change the filter too! My 96 blazer done that and seemed like it wasn't getting compression on any cylinder and wouldn't start up or if it did it run like shit but now she's good with a new pump and fuel filter 265000 miles and climbing
I have a 2001 s10 4.3 that is missing on three cylinders it's idle barley and when I push gas sounds like it is on its last leg left gas cap off got water in gas tank and lines replaced bad gas with new ran heet threw it replaced wires plugs distributor cap I just need help before I go for 300 doller spider injectors what should I try PLEASE HELP!!!
Before you did the crank cam relearn did it still miss fire? I just put new dizzy in my 5.7 vortec and haven't done crank cam relearn yet and it's still miss firing randomly on every cylinder. Not bad enough to through a code but showing up on my scanner. And can fill it shaking just a tad at idle. Had new mfi Injectors and new tune up. Would not having the cam crank relearn cause it to still miss fire? Thanks for the help
Chevy plastic intake and distributor housing....completely retarded engineering. Not to mention the tiny screws holding the cap and rotor on...lots of fun for us sausage finger guys! Thanks for the video!
I'm having multiple misfires and my distributor doesn't have much play and before I changed the rotor originally (which came with a bad screw that broke causing it to bounce around inside of the distributor) they gave me a new rotor I had to buy the cap and put all that in and now it's running like crap will check all plugs which were replace 10k miles ago and wires were replaced then too
I'm right in the thick of this issue, I'll check it. Would this issue be testable electronically only? I've had a mechanic "rule" this out so far, but there are random misfires still. It idles smooth. All other tuneup stuff has been done. Intake is dirty also. Yep, I know that cause the spiders been changed already. Tomorrow I will physically check the distributor regardless of the tests! Good video, thanks for posting, I'll let you all know!
Dang, did not even think of checking worn/play with rotor...would that actually cause random misfire while on the freeway going freakin 65mph and then random hesitation from a stop? Also, have you posted a vid on replacing a distributor? Thanks!
Kevin..Thanks for the vid. I have a 02 Xtreme 4.3 5 Spd. This will be the third distributor in just over two years(including the one we took out after purchase) due to excessive wear on the gear. Any ideas as to what the problem might be.(timing chain? Cam walk?)
EXACTLY. I have changed the cap and rotor three times and changed the crankshaft sensor. I noticed rotational movement today when I changed the rotor again. This is a very informative video. Right to the point. Thank you.
Thank you very much ! I have been chasing this ghost for a long time and with your advice. I finely broke down and bought a new distributor and i'm so impressed with your diagnostics, I just wanted to give you two thumbs up. Your video Rocks and my truck runs great.
Thank you Kevin, I have a 96, 289K miles, and I have just started having the multiple misfire code, and a rough idle, for over a year now. No performance issues, just rough idle, and mpg not as good as it use to be. Changed the O2 after the CC... I have not started it yet... because now I will check the distributor before I start it again,.. as it starts rough as well... rough meaning not a smooth start, but starts right up. A guy I met told me to check the teeth on the distributor drive gear as well. So with this much mileage, I should have realized that this part needs attention as well.
Great Video...
TJ
2005 Astro Cargo van currently with ~249,000 miles- started having the exact problem you described about a year ago. At first, it was just a random misfire once or twice, then it would settle into trying its damnedest not to run at all. I would cut it off and let it sit a few minutes, and it would run fine and continue to do so for a couple to several weeks or more. Then, out of nowhere, it would do it again. OBD was throwing up MAF codes, so I replaced it and the IAC when the problem first started - to no avail.
It has become more often lately so I changed the plugs and wires today and they were pretty well out of spec, but not the disaster I expected to see. So I decided to check the distributor cap and rotor. They were like you said, looked rough, but not bad enough to be causing all the fuckery I'm getting from the van.
I Googled "rotor, 4.3L Vortec" and this video was the first hit. Watched it, walked out to the van and checked the rotor (still mounted) and mine makes is worse than the one you have in the vid.
If I had seen this a year ago, you have no idea how much time, money, and lost work hours it could have saved me. I'm not a very religious man, but God bless you for putting this video up. Thank you so much!.
My 97 Chevy Vortec v6 (300.000km)is misfireing when cold and is acting wierd now and then.
Watched this video and checked my distrubutor. And holy shit! it had a huge play!
So glad this was the first suggestion by google. I was going to simply replace the cap, rotor, plug, wires and coil.
Because of this video, I now know I was not considering other important components.
Intermittent misfires every 30 seconds or so at idle which caused noticeable reductions in oil pressure during the event.
Also misfires the same at speed by the way.
Hard starts as well. Already tested and ruled out both cam and crank shaft sensors.
Thank you for sharing this VERY potential missing link!
Now to study the proper replacement method before I tackle the distributor.
I learned from another chevy that it wasn't "plug and play". Took me 3 hours of almost screaming to learn that. lol
Hi Kevin, thank you for the video. I have an 03 Astro Cargo that was running poorly and this video inspired me to check my distributor. I ordered a rebuilt Delco (and they sent a new one!) and changed it out. The difference is amazing!! I was just getting a code for cylinder 5, but I have gotten that with a failed distributor cap previously and also with a vacuum leak. One thing I have to add is that you don't need to be obsessed with finding TDC on number one cylinder, just mark some reference points for installed and how much it rotates when removed, and you are good to go. Replacement took 30-40 total minutes, including removing and replacing the doghouse engine cover.
Paramount531 I am glad it was off help
Wow, I waited a few months and promised I would leave good feedback if the solution worked. I looked for you to come through with my promise. You fixed a problem for me that has been plagued me for YEARS! not even shop owners knew the issue. I kept going through caps and rotors. I sprayed the engine down for shorts, nothing. I used expensive fuel, nothing. I f-ed up my cat due to the misfiring. Finally your video came along. I can't thank you enough.
Thanks, that is exactly the problem I'm having on my 2002 Blazer. I checked and it to was sloppy as hell. Even worse that the one you demonstrated. I picked up a new distributor and will luck everything will go good tomorrow AM when I stick it in. Great post..Thanks again.
Thanks for the video Kevin!! I've been thinking my spider fuel injectors wetter time culprit to my hiccups but I recently changed the distributor on my 99 Chevy 4.3 and I'm living in a dream now' it drives like butter!!!!
I put the new distributor in and it fixed it. Thanks for the video, you saved me some money.
Butch Newell glad it helped
did u do a relearn?
Well I am glad the video was of some help guys.
Hope that fixed your problem Henry and not sure on the cam/crank relearn dream, I have always ran them just to "be sure".
so i changed it and it idles good but if i give it gas it bogs and back fires not drivable
do i need a relearn?
hey kevin, i have a 2001 gmc sonoma with the 4.3. ni play in the distributor, but am getting p0300 and p0306. replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. idles fine but rough while in reverse/drive. any ideas
Wish I would've seen you're video earlier. A mechanic told me it was the fuel pump that it didn't have enough pressure.Spent $300 on a pump and didn't fix shit!!! Pulled the distributor and is worn going to install new in the morning hopefully it works
Did the dizzy swap fix it ?
Kevin, you are THE MAN !!! Thank you for your amazing video helping me to solve an annoying year long problem.
I put my new distributor in on Friday sure enough it had all the problems you shows ty again God bless
This is very kool Kevin ! Thank you for this Tech tip . My 97 4 door Blazer had the exact same issue with the distributor . There are a few Tech tips on RUclips about the 4.3 Vortec distributor , they all seem to only cover the issues with worn gears....NOT the slop that occurs in the thrust washer . I have checked my rotor free play and it is exactly as you display here . I have already updated my Spider assembly with the new Multi Port system , i got a Delphi unit and the Blazer is almost purring like a kitten . All that is left for me to do now is get the new Distributor . I ordered a "White Performance" all aluminum replacement .
On a side note...i have heard that if you are only replacing the Distributor assembly, a crank/cam relearn is not needed . From all i have read is that only if you change or otherwise tamper with the Crank sensor , then and only then will a Cam/Crank relearn be needed .
Of course i stand to be corrected...:)
Kev, THANKS ! Your video had enlightened me and helped fixed my problem. I never thought of looking there before seeing your post. I replaced and upgraded the Spider Injection Unit ,feeling sure it was fuel delivery. Found OEM at Amazon for $ 32.71, COMPLETE , plug and play. Thanks much.
Hi Kevin,
My 2003 4.3L Blazer has been running perfectly but then all of a sudden it stalled on the highway at a red light. The engine would crank over and sometimes it would run with a very rough idle and misfire and eventually die. Twice I disconnected the battery and the it fired right up and ran fine for about a minute and then died again. Then I waited about 20 minutes and it fired up again perfectly and stayed running so I quickly drove home without a hitch. Now it starts up fine everytime I turn it on and stays running, however I don't want to drive it anywhere until I know for sure what it is.
Last year I changed the ignition coil, the cat, and 2 weeks ago I changed out all 6 spark plugs. The wires are in great condition so I didn't change those. I just checked the fuel system and it's working great. I checked the distributor today after watching your video and it has some serious play in it, about the same as the video.
What I'm wondering is, if the distributor is worn out like it is in your video will the engine always fail or can it turn into an intermittent problem? I'm very confused to what the actual problem is and I want to make sure that it's not just the distributor.
Thank you,
Troy
I'm so happy to have come across this video. I recently did the head gaskets, heads, carb, intake, etc on my chevy Nova and I reused my distributor and since doing the work it has ran like complete and utter garbage. It knocks like crazy (from distributor) and just wants to stall and sounds like it misfires. I've checked timing and TDC so many times that I could do it in my sleep and until now it didn't occur to me that the shaft could be bad on my distributor or I have excessive play or something of this nature. Going to inspect the distributor tomorrow and give it a shot.
did you fix the problem
valves needed further adjusting.
Thank you for the time you took making this video!!! My 2500 its starting to backfire and I was about to do a tune up. I’m checking the distributor thanks to you
Thank you soooo much for this video, I've been chasing down this problem for about 2 years. I have MSD 8366 small cap with ext coil. I've went through 3 gal bucket of plugs with all the times NGK told me to replace the gas fouled plugs. Changed injectors, compression, leakdown, fog manifold. Floating ground. Etc. Thanks again.
Hey there Kevin
First off, just wanted to say thanks for your helpful video's. Helped me understand exactly what is going on under my hood. (If it were running properly).
So I'm having trouble with a 2002 4.3L s10...
It started with, if I let it sit for more than 12 hours. It wouldn't start just crank and crank. Usually killed the batt. Well turned out it was the fuel pump. Put a new one in. Let sit 2 days starts no prob.
It had a Lil stutter maybe 1 cylinder missing once every like 15 seconds. Not a huge prob. But the guy I bought the truck from said that he had a straight pipe put on. Replacing a bad cat. And he also told me, the rear o2 sensor wasn't there he didn't make a hole for it. But it still ran OK.
A month and a half after putting the new fuel pump. I was driving about 30mph tried to give it gas and the rpms. Didn't move so I put it in neutral and tried gas again and the rpms. Slowly just trickled down and I stalled.
I pulled over and checked Schrader valve for pressure. Just a tiny little squirt then stops. Gauge it and there's 0 pressure. I can here the pump kick OK for a seconds. And I think that's where the little squirt comes from. So I replace pump relay, and the ECM 2 fuse nope still just buzzes up and nothing even when I'm crankin. So I assume OK guess the guy gave me a shitty pump. Bought new pump & filter same thing. Buzzz 0 pressure.
So I say screw it and had it looked at.
Here's what he told me,
"Well the reason u had no pressure is because the pump relay was in the wrong spot."
(When I had to tow it to his shop I had my filter lose because at this point I was thinking a pitched
Line so I was seeing where the pressure stopes so I took the relay out so I could turn the key and not have the pump kick on.) I left it in the center council. And I told him that's what I did with it. I looked at what he,
"put back in the right spot"
And he took the DRL relay and put it in the pumps relay spot. Witch is the wrong relay it was the black one not the gray one like it was supposed to be.
OK then he said that the distributer was of by 90°
And that I have a misfire from a bad it sensor.
I went out and tried to start the truck.....
It ran like complete garbage stalled like three times. Sit there and jerk really hard. Would drop to 100 rpm dam near off then just pop right back up to 1200 rmp.
So I get it home like 15 min.
And put it in park and shut it off. Started it right back up and it idled smooth and ran great. Shut it off for 5 hours starts right up.
I let it sit for about 12 hours. Does the same thing doesn't want to stay running till you keep it running for about 15 min then restart it and bam. Runs good again?????
My argument was with the fact I haven't had good 02 sensor since I bought the truck 5months ago. And it was running great till it stalled and now he " fixes" it and the only thing wrong is an 02 sensor..
I'm not buyin it.
But still leaves me with what is making it do this??
P 0300 random misfire. Hook up timing light and observe the strobe flash on more than one cylinder . See double flash and occasional drop out ? pull cap off and check rotor for up and down play while twisting rotor left and right . any more play than damn little is too much. I pulled my dist out and found irregular wear on the gear teeth and twice the play as yours. New dist dropped in same way as old came out . cleared the code , disconnected battery hooked test lamp between harness posts turned ign on for 10 min or so . reconnected battery , drove and code came back , cleared code , disconnected batt ,shorted harness terminals turned on ign for 25 min or so . 85mi so far no code. THANK YOU VERY MUCH GOOD SIR ! V8 1997 MI on dist , may be 250,000 mi
Same problem with my thanks buddy
Changing the coil fixed the problem in my case, but thanks for the notice and heads up about the other issue
Scott Benack A lot of people tell me if it was a coil it wouldn’t crank it all this is not true or not I have a 1999 Chevy blazer
This information is gold - I said to me self, you know that, ya I'm rusty as hell, been driving Fords. Back about 1977 We had a 73 350 Pontiac Firebird and the Idle would increase and decrease. I noticed when turning over with a remote start switch doing dwell that it would rise and fall where points ride dist cam and change dwell readings. Turned out the Spring Washer between drive gear and body was flat and cracked, maybe 60,000 miles. I also worked on a 4.6 Blazer and a pro shop replaced the Map and same problem, hard start lack of power. Ran it hard after dark because I could smell a welding like heat. Sure had pretty Red Glow💥. The lesson is the MAP will set code for map because the air flow through intake and exhaust is reduced intermittently as converter plugs like a diabetics arteries!PO 101 me think?🤔🤐
this video saved me hundreds of dollars throwing parts at it like my local mechanics and the "experts" at autozone suggested
Thanks, man! The last year, I had a random missfire, but never caught a code. Fixed a bunch of things... even the phantom howling noise that no one but me could hear.
I just cleaned my distributor cap but failed to check if it had any loose play. I'll make sure to try that next if my misfire pops up again. Thank you bro bro
Just actually had one today thanks very much for your video I had a 4.3 with a misfire and couldn't figure out what the hell was going on watched your video check the distributor pulled it out sure as shit the same thing just ordered a new distributor today for it and in oil change big-time first time in 25 years and I've ever ran into this thank you
Same thing on my truck changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor ,still running shitty ill check it befor I take it to the shop thanks man👍
Thanks for the advice I've got mine in the shop right now replacing it I noticed the wire was gone.
Gonna Check This Tonight,I Have A 94 caprice 4.3 v8 with this same issue just today changed the mass air flow sensor and still doing the same thing. i have the plug wires cap and rotor to change out still.. will letya know if mine was the same way. thanks alot bud very helpful video!
Great info man my Chevy has a miss in it also 4.3 500,000 miles definitely tear it down I bet your right thank you sir.
Thanks Kevin, probably my issue right there. mine moves way more than that one up and down (not so bad back and forth), Anyways will change it but probably that's my issue also as I'ver checked everything else and seems fine.......
Kevin, I have a random misfire in my 1956, 235 Chevy engine. I have replaced the plugs, wires, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, coil, rebuilt the carb (1 barrel) and replaced the vacuum advance. I had some intake manifold leaks and the vacuum advance was not working. Now that I've done all of that, it still has a random misfire when it warms up. My last resort sounds like the distributor. I do have Pertronics Electronic Ignition.
I usually dislike everyone I hear talking in these videos. Today I subscribed. Good info, brother
Thanks, I have this same issue on my 03 replaced all kinds of stuff and it didn't fix it, now I just checked my dist. and I have a lot of play so now I'm going to try to replace the distributer
Fix it?
Same issue with my 96 chevy astro with 230k miles. Has the same amount of slack too. Ordered a new distributor from eBay for $40 bucks. We'll see what happens... It wants to start, but just can't. I'll follow up with the results. Good video and thanks for sharing!
Big Tex Trucker I have a 1994 GMC Safari, my distributor has play like the one in the video, and has a misfire no matter what I do. Everything else but the distributor been replaced. Likewise just ordered a distributor, waiting for it to arrive. I'm curious of the results of yours, as I have a 1997 Astro van too.
Is that one central point injection or the latter arachnid injection?
took my 02 blazer to shop, bucking, 200000 on it didn't wanna mess with #3 cyl, still ran bad after tune up bought cam sensor, went to put in & eye could not believe tha slop in distributor & that's y eye hate people working on my vehicle, they out to make money not to fix my problem. Thanks 4 video. Useful.
Thank you sir ur the first vid i dint skip on referenceing this issue
A cap and rotor fixed my missfires, blazer caps don't seem to last very long.
Blazer misfiring, I would replace the cap first.
The 6 fire mark on the distributor correlating to the top dead center marks on the harmonic balancer and engine is false. During a distributor replacement the only way the 6 fire mark on the distributor can be used is if you first put the old distributor rotor button on the 6 fire mark before removing the old distributor, and then you can use the 6 mark on the new distributor. If you align the engine at top dead center using the marks on the harmonic balancer then the distributor rotor cap will be pointing nearer to cylinder 1 of which is not marked on the distributor housing.
Great info just picked up a 98 Silverado with a 4.3 has a terrible misfire guy changed the cap rotor plugs wires coil cam sensor and it didnt go away I'm pretty sure this is what's going on with it.
It's a pretty good ignition system and the cap being a known week spot often distracts from the distributor being considered as they problem.
Especially since the Vortech style engines use a soft drive gear to prevent camshaft wear.
Thank you men,after change so many things like you say found your video and fix all my problems,include transmission changing gears,god bless you
Thanks for the video on the distributor wear. I've been chasing this ghost for months. And your video nailed it. I just subscribed. Thanks soooooo much!!
How can people dislike this video? Do people just have nothing to do with their lives?
Tyler Robinson probably beat other mechanics to making a video and they are pissed, so the best they can do now is dislike the video, lol
i think more people were keen to actually HEAR the misfire then the solution...rather than just the end fault.
Has everything to do with my life until i fix that dam misfire problem.
Jealousy
cleanview70 had that done to two of my cars on our car port and one of them is black . Showed up real nice all the way down the drivers side . Never found who did it . Cowards . A lot of people are jealous of videos people post and are very immature .
This was just the fix i needed thanks.I could not find the burrs in the gear but i think i cought it early.milage 15000 on my 1999.
Also, to those who thumbs down, please tell us why. Thanks
Thank you...I'm having that same Problem, pray for me! I wish that I could talk to you to ask you something, better yet if you were here!
did you fix the problem?
Ef is the timing chain stretch or cam your New distributor going quick to fail
Hey Kevin, I am currently working on my 1997 chevy S-10 with a 4.3 vortec which will not start or fire. Before it quit running a few months ago, it would misfire occasionally, but would always straighten up and run fine. One day the truck just stopped running while I was driving, like I had just turned the key off. I have fire going to the distributor, but no spark coming out. My distributor has about three times the amount of up and down movement and about a 1/8 of an inch of side to side movement.
I have been having the same issue. Missfire code plus the truck has major issues starting. The trouble started very slow for about 2 years then over the course of 6 months it basically just quit starting.
Replaced the Fuel Injection spider which was in fact bad, then nearly every sensor connected to the ignition. Never once did I think to replace the whole distributor until a mechanic friend suggested it. I'm about to buy a new one and see if it fixes the problem. I know for a fact mine has at least as much play as the one in your video.
dts642 I have a 2001 blazer , same codes , now it wont start , I changed the distributor a year ago , and it's 100 miles away ( and no one there to diagnose it correctly "to know for sure whatis exactly wrong & " part to buy" & get it running & drive it home , all the book indicates is that it's the crankshaft sensor "IS LIKELY THE PROBLEM " but don't have the money to keep buying parts and guessing , already put a fuel pump in it , it will crank but wont start ...
so it's either have it flat bedded home for 70.00 or cheapest price or buy the part 65.00 and take a chance on that , any ideas guys .?
Jonathan Rogers I have replaced the fuel pump, crank sensor, cam sensor, coil, ignition control module and the fuel injection spider. All my codes but the Mutiple Miss fire have gone away. I know for a fact distributor has excessive play. It is possible you got a bad distributor. I can get mine to start after trying for a while but it's hard on the starter. I just parked it and I will be swapping the distributor when I get board enough. Good Luck man I know how frustrating this problem is.
Man I am so happy I found You great job thanks
was chasing a misfire for about a month in my 01 astro...changed all the usual stuff and could not shake it....this was the exact problem..GM used cheap plastic ones from the factory...spend the extra and get the all aluminum one..
Thank you for the good information,appreciate it 👍👌
How do you do a crank and cam relearn procedure? Thanks
Did anybody ever tell you how to do the cam relearn procedure
yup . I got a distributor from oreilys . got the random misfire code. figured out the distributor had a WHOLE
bunch of free play. It was not a bad distributor; It was designed wrong , period. It would spin itself completely
out of time. I then dropped the $300 on a distributor from Chevy. That fixed it.
This helped very much it was totally my problem and I fixed it with easily thanks to this video
nice video my only suggestion for a novice would to have a good distributor to compare it to. I know not easy to do when you have to buy the comparison part.
i wish i had seen this 1200.00 ago!!! i hope that this is the issue with my blazer. Thanks for the video.
My 2002 5.7 gmc van misfire p300. After 2 years got so bad could not drive. 3 mechs gave up. It only misfired only when i reversed it. Then forward it gradually got worse as a drove. On highway Blinking engine light. As time passed i had to park it.
Tryed new Distributor kit . New plugs wires. New spider injectors. I got broke and the Auto store rich. Sold it.
great video can you do a part 2 on how to install......thankyou
thanks for that. my truck has been doing exactly that. I'll check it out in the morning
Very well Kevin...:) I guess it's always a good thing to do if you are changing parts in the Ignition system . I will have to see if my OBDII program on my lappy has a Cam/Crank relearn sequence . I have read about how to perform this adjustment by driving the vehicle , but that seems a very tedious procedure indeed...lol .
I am using "Scan XL" and "Pro Scan" OBDII programs on my laptop . I also have a Bluetooth OBDII Dongle that is working well so far . I simply have never seen any Relearn tabs or sections in any of these programs....of course i may just not be looking in the correct places for it .
I have a 1995 1500 V6 4.3 it's giving me code 44. Running lean I have changed tps,air intake module. 02 sensor. I've cleaned the throttle body. My rpms at idle are only 600 when I drive it's going and coming out of drive and overdrive..I don't know what else to do. If anyone has had this problem please email me jgardiner393@gmail.com thanks
James Gardiner Have your "Spider Injector" setup that resides under your intake manifold checked for leakage. These are very well known for missfire issues...and in fact...along with the symptoms described here by Kevin about the sloppy distributor...also another common issue with the Vortecs....the Spider injector is one of the main causes of missfires . You can perform some basic tests yourself without so much as even turning a wrench or even opening the hood . First....does the car have hard starting or particularly long cranking , more specifically after sitting with the engine off for a while ? Does it feel like the engine is "Surging" while driving down the road ? Does it have a very rough or intermittent idle ?
As far as the 600 rpm idle is concerned....i have learned that when these engines are operating within their parameters...an idle of about 600- 650 rpm is normal .
If the Spider assembly or fuel regulator have never been serviced...there is a very strong chance that may be where your problems are . BUT...please do not spend your hard earned dollars throwing parts at it....generally there is one root cause for most symptoms . Just remember to systematically go through everything until you nail the culprit...:)
Getting harder to find videos about the basics, everyone is is using meters and scanners and testing sensors and PCMs all the other modern crap, I have a 93 Chevy K 1500 and no sensors or computer, just the basics, so it should be simpler, right, the one thing I haven't pulled and that's the distributor, hopefully I'll find something that will account for the rough running, I've checked everything else, it's got to be it, I hope...
Thanks for the video.
Hello.. thanks for the video.. I got the same problem, i keep getting the random misfire/ cyl #4 misfire! just cyl#4 and so far i have replaced fuel filter, spider injector(twice), distributor, spark plugs, wires (twice!) and it ran fine for a day and today just got it back... same codes... random and cyl#4... Fuel pressure is good, Cylinder compression is great... IDK what to look for any more... its getting under my skin!
Wait this sounds familiar does it flash when u are going over 50?
Great video, Kevin. Thank you.
Awesome video!! Thanks for posting!! I'm definitely going to check mine now.
Sounds like what I have on my 05 except it only skips on light acceleration above 30 and only after it warms up.
It's odd, I've replaced the distributor 4 times, each time it was loose and each time it runs excellent again. Trying to think what could be destroying distributor so easy? Oil pump issue? (The oil pump is driven by the distributor.
I bought a billet distributor fixed my issues as well.
Kevin @ 2:34, "Stop!" "Pull the cap, check this..."
For once , I think I'm gonna heed the advice of "some guy named Kevin on YT", and check the slop in my distributinator inator! Cause I surely was about to pull the plenum cover thinking that that stupid spider leaking just enough to make it run like crap , but not enough to cripple it...
Anyway, thanks for the video Kevin. And thanks even more for making it succint and on point, rather than 16 minutes of redundant dumbassery like some of the other videos out there!
At 230,000 miles on my 95 Blazer, the old distributor had almost no wear on the gear teeth but 0.031" of up/down play. After seeing your video, I decided to buy a new one. However, the brand new distributor has 0.021" of up/down play! The one in your video is moving about the same amount. I'm wondering about the accuracy of the information you've presented here where you stated "it should barely move". Either it's supposed to have some amount of up/down play, or these brand new distributors are no good.
The engine runs somewhat better but something still does not feel right about the idle. Everything else was checked and ruled out and the distributor was the last thing on the list. Hoping the new one is also bad so I can get something better. Otherwise, maybe update your video to mention the acceptable tolerances for these.
Great video, i pulled my cap and found rotor cap was loose and i had some side to side play but no up and down. Thanks for the info. Not sure if cleaning it will stop my error though.
I have a 2000 astro that I replaced the CPI with mpi, timed it correctly but get a can crank error. on this engine the can sensor controls the fuel trim . It seems lazy or running rich , my question is can you do a can crank relearn on a 2000 4.3 I have read yes and no but you said you did it on the 96 . thanks
I've got a 98 Honda Prelude. Crank no-start situation here. The night before I changed the cap and rotor. Next day drive it to work. Leaving I start it and immediately it dies out. And hasn't stayed since just cranks but won't catch. Checked the fuel pump, good. As well as the relay, sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body, nothing. Wires, plugs, cap, rotor, all new. In at a loss with what the hell it could be. Any thoughts?? Oh and I changed the coil.. nothing.
what is crank and cam relearn procedure? I did all that, new distributor, new spider injectors, all new electronic sensors (10 or 12), coil. I still have a random miss and the engine will just stop running with no warning. pull off the side of the road, try to restart, it appears to have no spark - will not start, then pull it in to a garage and 8 hours or a day later it will restart with nothing repaired! . the tester says random misfire.! sometimes the engine light comes on and tester says, random misfire.
I had learned last night only 3 cylinders are firing. But I'm getting fire from 2 of the spark plug wires
I would defiantly look at the distributor. Make sure the cap is in good shape along with the rotor button. If you have the low pressure A/C line that runs directly above the distributor it has been known to drip condensation onto the dist. and cause corrosion in the cap.
what things would show up on a diagnostic scan that would point to a worn distributor ?
My misfire goes from random to cyl #3.
I think thats the problem with my distributor. Idk if mine has that much play, but it does have play. And a misfire, i just changed the fuel injection spider unit.
he's right, have one right now that has marred the inside of the cap, and the rotor is albut destroyed
Just replaced the one in my 5.7.Put in a billet distributor off ebay.Runs great but my mechanic tried to do a cam sensor set and crank relearn but his tool kept showing an error.I wonder if its the dizzy.I've bought chevy distributors rebuilt by cardone that were junk.
This was my problem thanks saved me from going to dealer
I got a 01 Astro with a 4.3, and my mechanic told me I need a new distributor. And I get a random misfire. He said the distributor was made of plastic! I haven't replaced it yet. I know I've put quite a few new distributor caps on it. Now I have a 335 engine code, van tries to stall, every-time I stop. Runs like crap. I going to try a new crankshaft position sensor first, with a shim, as noted in a GM service bulletin. Because it's cheaper then a new distributor. Van has 145K miles on it. Oil pressure is low, getting by with 20w50 oil.
Noisy engine, I'm afraid it's about ready to throw a rod... I'm just trying to make it last a little longer. Just started a new job, and it's a long drive. Trying to save money for another vehicle to get to work. Van only get 12MPG. Thanks for your help and advice. I'm just tying to get through this. Van is dying :-( And I will miss her when she's gone.
Plus tranny is acting up... I got my monies worth out my Astro. Wish they didn't stop making them. I don't like any of the new vans. So, I guess I drive her till she dies...
Why are you running such heavy oil? 4.3L calls for 5-30. Synthetic is best.
Use 4 quarts synthetic & half quart Lucus synthetic additive and that will bring oil pressure up. That's what I use every oil change
I use 4 quarts synthetic & 1/2 quart Lucus synthetic additive every oil change, 5000 miles. Brought oil pressure up.
Thanks. I will try that instead.
I prefer royal purple but any brand name synthetic is gonna be a lot better than conventional oil.
my 93 s10 blazer 4 door Tahoe got timing adjusted then after I left the shop...two blocks later it died. smelled something burn and person fixed it. the old one melted
Was he having the truck fall flat on it's face when he got on the gas? Surging while the vehicle was in gear, and he was on the brake? (for example sitting at a red light?) Any hesitation with starting the vehicle?
So that will cause the rpm gauge to fluctuate all over the place correct
Excellent video.keep them coming
I got a skip that developed today.. I did the plugs months ago. PLUGS, not wires, and this past winter--the distributor would make noises when the temp was below 30 degrees.. I saw another video that says not to get the re-made distributors cause they dont line up.. Top to bottom that is--off center. So, if that distributor moves--replace it with factory made... I'd do it now, but it is raining. Thanks though..
did you fix it?
Can tha fix the problem on my vecause i do have a spark and i aready change 2 spider injectors and the misfire just skips from 1 cylinder to another cylinder ... but i do hav a spark on the cylinder that is misfiring
hope this helps me out!
I have an '01 sierra 5.3, sometimes it will fire right up at 12.5v (on my digital meter) and then she will hesitate and crank and crank with no fire at 11.9v, then sometimes it will fire but rpms will be at like 100 then climb up.
It sounds like to me and I've had this happened. But the fuel pump... And filter! When you change the pump change the filter too! My 96 blazer done that and seemed like it wasn't getting compression on any cylinder and wouldn't start up or if it did it run like shit but now she's good with a new pump and fuel filter 265000 miles and climbing
lots of help. Thanks
Man thanks..This is nothing compared to the one I just checked..just bought a old truck that would not run..
I have a 2001 s10 4.3 that is missing on three cylinders it's idle barley and when I push gas sounds like it is on its last leg left gas cap off got water in gas tank and lines replaced bad gas with new ran heet threw it replaced wires plugs distributor cap I just need help before I go for 300 doller spider injectors what should I try PLEASE HELP!!!
Before you did the crank cam relearn did it still miss fire? I just put new dizzy in my 5.7 vortec and haven't done crank cam relearn yet and it's still miss firing randomly on every cylinder. Not bad enough to through a code but showing up on my scanner. And can fill it shaking just a tad at idle. Had new mfi Injectors and new tune up. Would not having the cam crank relearn cause it to still miss fire? Thanks for the help
Chevy plastic intake and distributor housing....completely retarded engineering. Not to mention the tiny screws holding the cap and rotor on...lots of fun for us sausage finger guys! Thanks for the video!
I'm having multiple misfires and my distributor doesn't have much play and before I changed the rotor originally (which came with a bad screw that broke causing it to bounce around inside of the distributor) they gave me a new rotor I had to buy the cap and put all that in and now it's running like crap will check all plugs which were replace 10k miles ago and wires were replaced then too
appreciate it bruh , gonna check it b4 I do anything else , will let u know
I'm right in the thick of this issue, I'll check it. Would this issue be testable electronically only? I've had a mechanic "rule" this out so far, but there are random misfires still. It idles smooth. All other tuneup stuff has been done. Intake is dirty also. Yep, I know that cause the spiders been changed already. Tomorrow I will physically check the distributor regardless of the tests! Good video, thanks for posting, I'll let you all know!
Dang, did not even think of checking worn/play with rotor...would that actually cause random misfire while on the freeway going freakin 65mph and then random hesitation from a stop? Also, have you posted a vid on replacing a distributor? Thanks!
Kevin..Thanks for the vid. I have a 02 Xtreme 4.3 5 Spd. This will be the third distributor in just over two years(including the one we took out after purchase) due to excessive wear on the gear. Any ideas as to what the problem might be.(timing chain? Cam walk?)