NEEY - Smart Active Balancer for Li Batteries. Is this what we're looking for?
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Before you consider buying this balancer you need to be aware that the balance start voltage can not be set by the user. It is always 0.3V above the sleep voltage (which can be set through the app).
For example if you set a sleep voltage of 3.15V, the balancer will automatically start balancing at 3.45V and stop balancing at 3.15V again. This is not ideal at all and the difference of 0.3V cannot be adjusted.
I will follow this up with the manufacturer and keep you posted of the progress though the videos here on RUclips and on my website.
I'm sharing my experience with the new NEEY Smart Active Balancer for lithium batteries. The device has Bluetooth connection and balances cells with 4A across 2S up to 24S battery configurations.
I'm sharing the full setup, connection and first test with you. We also charge the battery to 3.65V again and see if the balancer can prevent cells from running away. At the end I'm doing a test in which I discharge only one cell of the pack and see how the balancer copes with such an extreme situation. Will it prevent the BMS from turning off?
Is this the balancer we have waited for?
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Good to see that you finally found a smart balancer like I described in my other comments on your other vids. :-)
I think the Neely is a processor controlled balancer that functions as follows:
1. It monitors the V of all the cells
2. It does a short duration pulse discharge from a higher voltage cell/s into an energy storage circuit that is within the Neely device. (or it may switch the higher V cell in parallel with the lower V cell for a short duration to transfer energy)
3. It then transfers the energy from within the Neely device to the cell that has the lowest voltage to charge it--hence increases it's V. (or it may switch the higher V cell in parallel with the lower V cell for a short duration to transfer energy)
4. Then it switches to another higher voltage cell to repeat the process until all of the cells are in balance.
Taking a bit of energy from each higher V cell & transferring it to the lower V cell/s will result in a balanced pack in the shortest amount of time. Now you understand what I meant by a smart balancer. :-)
You could very likely leave this new balancer on all the time to keep your cells balanced. This really is the point of an active balancer--to keep your pack balanced--you shouldn't have to do it just for top balancing. The other active balancers that you've tried just didn't perform the balancing function quickly or well...
@Ron Powell I agree. The problem that Andy seems to have been having was if he bottom balanced then his pack would be out of top balance after bulk charging because his other active balancers didn't work very well.
I read somewhere that they charge the super capacitors in parallel and discharge them in series.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia That is mostly likely the case. Caps charge & discharge faster than lithium cells do...
Thank you for the great reviews. As an Electrical Engineer, I appreciate the reviews of products AND showing exactly the operation of the processes like this.
I have that balancer. (Well the 2 amp version) and I love it. If you look at the circuit board. You can see two large super Capacitors. They charge them in parallel and discharge in series.
I'll open the case in a future video.
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaBTW love all your vids
I have the same balancer but it is branded JK-BMS and the phone app has a different skin but the same controls. I'm pleased with it.
For experimenting with the battery and various balancers and BMS, to avoid messing with the threads, I have installed a LAPP EPIC KIT H-A 16 pin connector (+ GND). A female connector permanently mounted on the battery box and several male connectors that I just move around as needed from one device to another.
I concur 1000% on installing a connector and don't touch the threads again. I use phoenix connectors. I also made a Y cable so I can plug two different devices into a single battery - a BMS and a balancer, for example.
This is the same as the JK bms balancers. When the balance current shows negative numbers it is drawing from the highest cell to large capacitors and when they're full they discharge to the lowest.
Yep, got the JK already here. Video is coming on the weekend.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia awesome, those balance wires look like they're also the same as JK might lower the risk of stripping out your terminals.
JK BMS with active balancer works perfect!
That is a really cool balancer, I may have to get this one in the future to try out. Something I would recommend in the future is to run longer studs and run a double nut setup on the studs, so you can hold the bottom nut with a wrench while you crank on the top nut to compress it into the bus bars. This is how I've done my stuff because I had the same thing happen to me in the past with a battery, I twisted the internal stud loose and broke the battery. Also something interesting i saw on a lithium battery build on powerwall group, the guy designed PCBs that sat ontop of his battery cells with internal traces that turned his battery bank into a 24v setup with pre-ran runs for the battery bms circuit. He even put mounting spot on the PCB for mounting of the BMS so there was no more wires. He said the PCBS were only a few dollars to get printed from china and just soldered a mass amount of solder on the main traces to give them more current capacity. It looked extremely clean.
Thanks William. But then you would have only the nut as a contact area between busbar and terminal, right?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia No the stud is screwed into the cell, the nuts are clamping the busbar to the stud, so its extending the contact area of the stud via stud to nuts, nuts to busbar..
I think the point that Andy is making that any stand off that puts a nut between the terminal base and the busbar means that for a distance of nut height the effective conductive cross sectional area is limited by the nut and stud. If the currents used are not too great this might not be too significant. However be aware that for this short distance the current has to do two transitions between different materials (busbar-nut-terminal) which could encourage dissimilar metal corrosion. If the nuts and studs are stainless this should be OK but I am not sure whether the lesser conductivity of stainless steel is an issue here or not?
Excellent, but this needs to be Part of a good bms and not an extra tool
JK/Heltec BMS has this built in (with a 2A balancing current).
That's what I thought because burning energy off as heat is stupid
@@james10739 not only that, but the passive balancers built into bms’ usually only do 25ma-50ma of balancing. Some are higher, like the one we are using (“160ma”) .
with large cells or packs like these, unless you’ve matched exactly cell to cell down to the 0.01mah, and they break down exactly the same over time, you’d have to have more balancing current.
Active is nice of course because you technically gain a small amount of AH as you discharge the packs due to the cells staying close together unless you’re only specifically balancing over 3.1V etc
I've got eh JK BMS already here, video is coming on the weekend. It will be great. I hope!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Just one thing: don't get frustrated turning it on. The good thing about it being able to be completely off is that it won't slowly drain a pack further after low voltage disconnect. The BMS will shut itself off as well to protect the cells.
The cable connected to #12 is also connected to #13 through the busbar. To boost cell #13 current has to go through these two wires. Maybe it takes the energy from the whole pack through red and black wire?
I am running a 16S "toasty" and had the same issue you had during a deep discharge.
This balancer totally is an option!
Thanks for the video.
Not sure if I follow what you mean in regards to #12 and #13. They both have an individual balance cable on each positive terminal. But htere is no connection between them. That would cause a short.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia The balance cable on #12 positive is also connected to #13 negative through the busbar. To charge #13 you need current on positive AND negative. You remember that Kirchhoff Dude? Current that goes in has to go out somewhere.
Hi, this is the way an activ balancer should work. It tooks an amount of amperes into a capicitor from the highest cell. When the capacitor is full it puts the amperes back into the lowest cells. And all programmable. I am using also two of the JK BMS. All in one with BMS with activ balancer. My Engenier said it is the Mercedes Benz of the BMS's
Thanks. I've got the JK BMS already here, just haven't done the video yet. Coming soon!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Haha cant wait, btw I'am running now on solar without any battery's, using the APC UPS, and with some clouds I got 24v 30A charger, otherwise with full clouds I don't invert, got a DC network off 200w, I checked but QUCC and Raspberry pi is not a good mix, hope it will come.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I am looking forward to your next video with the JK BMS. My most problem was to start the JK. Need to take a powersupply with 60V and it starts. Since then it runs fine.
Green Loctite 648 retaining compound for your threads. It will repair stripped ones too . I think we should drill and tap the buss bars for balance leads since they may need changing from time to time so we don't disturb the main connections.
Thanks Andy, That was quick delivery considering world wide logistics at the moment.
I'm still getting gear relatively quickly from China. Cannot complain.
I highly recommend to drill and tap your bus bars for small balancer leads, and make ‘landing’ buss bar for positive and negative ends. This reduces the quantity of bolting it unfolding the battery terminals directly. It gives you many chances to connect different meters and wires to the busbars without disturbing the actual battery connection.
I have already done that. Those of us using aluminium busbars have slightly thicker material making tapping that much easier and also providing more threads. As mine is a 16S2P system I position the tapped holes halfway between each pair of paralleled cells.
your live audience is applauding your work. looks like you found a solution for your problem.
Thankyou Andy for your great work!
I have been looking for Somthing like this! I have ordered one . Now we just need one combined with a BMS.
Keep up the great work
Like in the new video from yesterday 😊
Very well done. So what did you do to get in hot water with RUclips??? Lol. I enjoy all your videos, keep it up!!!!
ISSUE with cell STUDS:: Bottom line first, use SPLIT LOCK Washers! Lock washers compress as you tighten providing an optimal tightness securing a good electrical connection. Rather than a stud terminal, I prefer a bolt, nuts, lock washer, flat washer. First, spin the nuts on the bolts, then add lock washer and flat washer, and then finger tighten the bolts on the cells along with buss bars and any wire connections(balance leads or power cables). Use one wrench to hold the bolt while using a second wrench to tighten down the nuts, compressing the lock washer. No over tightening needed! Also, I wrap the wrenches with tape for electrical safety. We are all cautious, but sometimes get too comfortable, and make silly mistakes.
This seems to work great.
Why not use this thing to do the top balancing new batteries? Just in series instead of the super slow parallel method...
Absolutely, that can be done with such a device. It will just top balance your whole battery. I'll test that 😁
@@OffGridGarageAustralia we would really want to see new 16s with no previous balance and use this device to charge them and top balance them
@@ImanAcademySE that would be great for sure!
Hey Andy, you and Will are costing me a fortune lol! I bought this bms (exact clone) on Amazon. All these units currently only use an Android app. iOS is in the near future. Got to go get a cheap pre-pay android, download the app and let it just be Bluetooth dedicated to the balancer from there on. My Heltec works but I like the grunt power it has even when batteries are in float mode. Much more versatile.
The apps are far easier to program on Android due to open-source than Apple's iOS. Hence all these devices have and Android app at least. Don't buy everything Will or I are showing. It's just to give others some options. I like testing these things though.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia
I don’t buy everything but, you guys do find some good stuff.
@karljenson I was looking at that one. Alot of people are saying no app support. Is it the color tree 2a for 179.00? Cause I was about to buy also but read comments...hit me back please
@@dchevy34 The Balancer has full app support. All links are in the video description...
Who were you helping out Andy? :) I like the look of this balancer. If I ever get my batteries I'll order a couple.
Someone in this area needed help. A lot of help 😁
A few years ago I read a paper from a Belgian university that developed an active balancer that uses some muxers and a boost converter (that's probably why they need the cell chemistry) and a few shared capacitors.
The continuous current is probably the discharge or charge current combined.
Hey Andy, gr8 video as always !! Just noticed that that you need to add a 5 to ur score door ;-)
Do I?
Holy S**t, you're right m8! Wow 🤦♂️
There seems to be a few mentioning something about fixing stripped threads, Helicoils are good but like anything you must know how to use them, the tapping tool you need to use must be an end tap and the lubricant must suit the material being tapped, given that this is aluminium and a closed hole it should be cleaned very often as the swarf will ruin the thread as you cut it, when the engineers designed the terminal posts they would have designed them with a curtain use in mind, and this would not include constant removal and replacing the screws/bolts/studs (especially without using a torque wrench) and my guess the reason for changing from m8 to m6 was because of TPI.
I feed my balance leads into Electrical Terminal Connector Block. From there I have various typs of leads. Good for trying different things!
Thanks Alan. I have 64 terminals already here for the new Battery 2.0 build. I don't want to touch any terminals any more at all afterwards 😁
I had the same unthreading issue with 152ah cells. My supplier (Hong sen Feida) advised me to drill and thread for M8 studs instead. So I did, and no issues ever since. According to the supplier it is important to not drill deeper than the original holes, so be careful.
I just came back to hear Andy saying NEEEEEEEY.
Hahahaha, sick!
Rally many thanks for your help, its much more useful than tons of informations from sellers :-)
Thank you!
Good find Andy, think I shall get me a couple of those.
A couple???
@@OffGridGarageAustralia One for the motorhome and one for the house system.
This is exactly what I need for my pack made of old byd cells where one of the two 8 cell packs is very well balanced and the other has a lot of deviation between cells. Should let me get a bit more life out of them, currently they are limited about 65-70% state of charge due to the imbalance of the one pack and the bms I have is limited to about 200ma of balance current which just isn't enough.
Love your channel.
"Welcome back and good morning here from the offgrid-garage in Australia. We have... hoo... 2.7 amps outside" Ich schmeiß mich weg xD. Grüße aus old dirty germany and i love your infotainment!
There is a much simpler form of balancer: Just put a shunt regulator across each cell.
Each shunt regulator does nothing until its cell reaches it's maximum voltage, then it shunts the charge current so that the cells can never exceed their maximum voltage.
In effect it mimics an old-style lead-acid battery, in that the batteries are automatically balanced each time they reach full charge.
The issue of efficiency isn't important, as it only shunts current when the batteries are full and have stopped charging.
Your effort to keep each cell at exactly the same voltage is pointless and achieves nothing. The only thing which matters is that the cells never exceed their maximum voltage.
You still need a low voltage cut-out, (preferably for each cell) but that function can be provided by your inverter.
That’d be awesome, except for the heat put out by the shunts if charging the battery at any decent wattage. You’ve seen the heat a 60w incandescent light bulb puts out, imagine a 1000, 1500, or 2000 watt.
Ideally, balancing should be done up top to as close to 1mv as possible for the first initial balance (paralleled etc). Then as they discharge you cut battery off at 2.5 (or whatever specific voltage you want), and charge them back up with balancing being done only towards the end (say 3.25 or right after that but linear curve) until fully charged.
Ideally that’d work indefinitely until the cells degrade over time and that’s when the 5A active balancer would be getting really put to use to bring back those weaker cells near their top SOC.
The only advantage I see with using an active balancer through the entire discharge cycle is to get a few more amp hours, although you’d definitely need more than 5A of current after a certain differentiation.
@@redbaronrefining5322 > That’d be awesome, except for the heat put out by the shunts.
That is a good point, however the total power is divided across all the shunts, plus they only need divert the unused portion of the current,
and once all the cells reach full voltage, the charge can be cut off or reduced.
But this is passive balancing, bleeding off energy of single cells. I thought we're past that point already and use modern more efficient technology.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia But the extra complexity of active balancing doesn't achieve anything. It's certainly no more efficient. When the cells are full, there is lots of solar going to waste. May as well use it to bring all the cells up to the same level.
I suspect this works in the manner in which I envisioned a proper device to work in that it's using a transformer / buck circuit to boost the voltage. You couldn't get this type of amperage without a voltage boost. Now try to let it do its thing the entire time. This is what you need in order to run it from full to empty. I suspect it's a charging circuit that can take voltage from any cell, boost it up slightly and pass that on to any cell that needs it.
It reads the voltage of every cell continually except while discharging / charging it, takes its current, charges the caps, discharges the current into the appropriate cell. It keeps doing this until balance is achieved. Because it can do this throughout the curve, I'd bet you could use this to achieve full capacity out of a pack as it's able to move 4 amps at what looks to be a ~30% duty cycle. Over 5 hours at a 30% duty cycle (which seems conservative) it can move 6ah worth of energy. If it can maintain a 50% duty cycle, it can move 10ah between the cells.
I'm willing to bet its no-load voltage is quite a bit higher, but the battery's resistance keeps the actual voltage lower. At the risk of damaging the unit, you should put in place an interrupt that can monitor the + voltage it outputs immediately upon breaking its connection to the cell it's charging. You'd have to be quick, it looks to only charge for a second or so -- some type of NC push button wired in-line to break its positive connection to the cell while monitoring the device's lead w/ a fast enough voltmeter to catch whatever voltage it's sending down the line. That's the only way it could be outputting 4a anywhere/everywhere in the charging curve. The dumb devices rely solely on cell voltage alone to charge the caps which is why they don't move jack when cell delta is tiny.
These balancers use capacitors, charge from one cell and pass it on to another. I'll open the case in a future video and will show how it works.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia No doubt there's capacitors involved, but given the cell's and the capacitor's resistance, one or the other is going to take a charge quick unless higher voltage is being used. Curious if possibly they're paralleling them to charge them up and dumping in series or boosting voltage another way.
Some way, some how, voltage is being increased. There's just no other way to get current to flow that quickly both into and out of the system without magically changing the resistance or spiking voltage considering the very low delta between the cells it's balancing. No way it's able to achieve that amperage with such a tiny voltage delta. Something isn't right.
Just think about what happens at constant voltage charging when cells are near the top --- tiny delta = tiny current flow.
Active balancer is also very efficient, it does not transfer balancing energy from battery to heat. it stores it in micro capacitors and supplies to lowest volt cell. generating practically no heat and not wasting charging energy and bank capacity, just redistributes energy evenly across the cells. You should put starting balance minimal voltage to 2.5, so you will get even discharge capacity and charge capacity from end to end
One thing I worry about with this thing though. When the battery bank is full, there is almost constantly 4 ah pumped around, thus charging and discharging cells constantly. Does this constant charging/discharging negatively influence the lifetime of the cells? I mean you do introduce extra cycles using this method. I know it's only 4ah, but still....
Let's find out together.
I think this is due to the fact that I set 1mV deviation in the app. With 16 cells, there is always balancing happening. That was just for testing purposes to see if it can do it. In real world, you would set like 5 or even 10mV difference. The balancing will stop then. I'll show this in a future video.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia you're right. Definitely will do this when I build my pack. Great content man!
Thanks for your ideas and reviews Andy.
No problem, thanks!
Great review, as always. We understand the words thing Andy. I prefer your honest joe type of style. Refreshing in this world of perfectly slick videos. Is it worth paying (for me anyway), the US$82 plus VAT (US$99) delivered to the UK? Who knows.
These balancers uses caps to avoid the short of doing a parallel and series at the same time. So it sucks power into the cap, the cdischsrges it to the destination battery by switching using a fet.
They all work this way, you’ll never see anything but cycling because they can’t have 2 directly connected and all of the power is just charge/discharge of the capacitors. If they did it any other way it would create a short.
So what you’re seeing is consistent with ALL active balancers. This just uses new new (and cool) TI chip that does 2a per cell which shows as 2+2 because it charges and discharges 2 caps at a time.
Congrats on 15k !
Nice device. That´s what I´m what looking for. Thank you Andy.
No problem 👍
Nice you're doing s/w qa for the mfg of that balancer, can't beat that! I want one! Thumbs up and subscribed!
Thanks 👍
You didn't show us the sleep voltage working?
The video is already 30min long. I'll show all the features in a future video.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia thank you! Since that's the killer feature I've needed I can't justify buying without seeing it working.
Calibrated by Keith sold me 😂👍
Sounded really great, right? Not sure what that is but hey, it works...
I just had one of my terminals do the same thing it ended up that it pulled the threads out of the aluminum I already tried a brand new nice high quality heli coil set it didn't work for me at all the bigger size drill bit drilled out just fine but the larger size tap was just galling up with aluminum and I couldn't cut decent threads
I ended up drilling it out to a larger size and hammering in a 6x1 nut it fit in real tight and that's what I'm running right now I do have a good connection there's no voltage difference across the connection even at full current
I would really like to see how you're supposed to fix these
Don't... 😑
1 of my cell terminals had the same thing. I'm thinking to get it weld with laser, but still can't find one here. Looking for alternatives before get a larger tap size. Andy, let us know what happen to voltage diff with cell no 6 if you charge it with 50A. From my experiences, the voltage will jump to the roof. 😄
I have a 1 amp version of one of these balancers, but from a different brand, and it works great. I use it for doing maintenance balancing on various packs.
What brand for the 1 Amp balancer?
@@DavidHalko just looked at the ebay listing I bought it from, and it doesn't list a brand, and the listing I got it from ended. It balances 2 to 24 cells, and comes in a thin metal box, with built in bluetooth, with similar settings as what was shown on the video. Got it for about 86 dollars
Hi Andy, could you charge those batteries from the bottom and let's see how the balancer handles them? 🙏
Ordered one for my 16s bank.
Woohoo. It's great, I really like it!
I guess this balancer works much faster than updated on the app, so you don't see in real time what's really happening, but a general idea of what's going on.
I think the logic is to use MOSFETs to put capacitors across the highest voltage cell , charge it to a certain voltage (but I think the algorithm uses Joules for his internal calculation) then this energy goes through a charge pump circuit (other capacitors) to increase the voltage then reconfiguring the mosfets networks it discharge all this energy into the lowest voltage cell, then the cycle repeats again.
I'm the one suggested you to convert your broken BMS into a smart active balancer, but it seems you have found a commercial product that already does the job...and I must stay...doing it very well.
Very nice product, I am impressed. Thanks for sharing.
Thank Robert. So far, I like it very much!
It has DC-DC converter to the four 30F supercap storage. Looks just like the much more expensive DC-DC super cap storage balancer that his been on the market for some time.
and it works great!
Maybe it takes and returns current from balanced cell to main +/- contacts. This means, it doesn't transfer current betwen cells. It only circles through cells and balances them one after another. Maybe that's why it needs two cables connected to battery most positive connector.
I have a REC active BMS that does this kind of balancing. But this balancer needs conection to a shunt on main negative.
I do notice when you drained the one cell, all the rest went above 3.65v. I would personally set the turn on voltage to 3.4v.
That was because the overall voltage went down and the charge controller kicked in again to keep the set voltage.
Yeah, in real world I would also start at 3.4V or 3.45V and it will be fine.
Maybe you had the camera rolling when you were with the Mrs. Off-Grid Garage.
suggest to add a screw in the middle of the bar and connect balancer wire on that instead on terminal screw
Yes, with the new built. I will have 2 screws actually ;)
@@OffGridGarageAustralia not sure is it possible to solder the screw nut on the bar then u can connect many more on the bar
Do you have an example of connecting four lithium batteries?Life 4s for NEEY
If you go below a 10s battery pack, you need a power supply to operate the NEEY. There is a drawing on the product website. A link to this is on my website: off-grid-garage.com/battery-management-systems-bms/
Were can i finde the app for iPhone?
We'd like to introduce our new Active Balancer; The Peter. 😂
Isn't that much better??? 😂
Great video Andy! I don't need one right now but placed an order 'just in case' lol
great coverage! thanks
Thank you John!
Hi Andy
Where do I find the app for the NEEY ACTIVE BALANCER?
I have a 48v 200ah battery pack that I have ordered a NEEY ACTIVE BALANCER for it.
Thanks
Will this balancer allow you to set a high voltage of 3.4 instead of the 3.45 you where using? Or maybe 3.42??
Yes, you can set any start voltage you want through the app.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I mean on the solar charge controller. I remember you wanted yo set your single cell voltage to 3.4V but didnt succed because it was still somewhat in the flatter part of the curve so you had to set single cell to 3.45V on the charge controller (55.2V) but seeing how good this balancer is and its 4A balance current maybe you can set 3.4V on your solar charge controller 54.4V. I hope i explained it better this time
Maybe to protect the terminals in the new battery arrangements you need to have some kind of terminal board where you can patch in and out different apparatus without touching the cells themselves? I know other people also tap the buss bars but maybe for experiments you need something more centralised.
I think if you look inside the balancer you will see a beefy capacitor inside, it fills that from the highest cells and pushes that current into the lowest battery. It's not a direct connection, that wouldn't work, it's a charge store in the balancer.
Hi Andy, might be worth noting I noticed on their website that at this time it's android only so No iOS app.
They are working on the iOS version and it will come soon. I think it says it somewhere on their site...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia - no iOS would be a deal breaker for a lot of people
So they used a calibrated keithley multimeter? Or was it out of cal? Keithley had very high tolerance resistance in there models.
No idea... 🤷♂️
@@OffGridGarageAustralia That's the problem with them saying it is reference of a keithley multimeter, which is normally a standard. Hit is a lot in my old job as a calibration technician.
Hello Andy.
Maybe as the cell voltage is set to 0.001 V , the balancer takes not more than that from the highest cell to share with the lowest.
If it was set to say 0.01, maybe, it would transfer more energy, with the disadvantage of being less balanced?
That is a very cool balancer and could help relieve my trouble with a weak cell, but sadly I have only a 4s 135ah lifepo4, therefore I don't have the voltage to run it 🙁
A question, I use the same BMS app but yours has more on the home screen. Do you have a link to download your version?
Thank you for the great video and I hope your cell 6 connection post survives
Just give me some time, I'll do a 4s and 8s test with this BMS soon. It will work!
Looks like a perfect solution!
Hello, I would like to purchage a NEEY active balancer, where did you buy yours ?
Andy I was just wondering what your other triplets brothers names were, because they’re no way 1 person can pump out that many video’s in a month?!!
Yeah, I have three brothers and we share the channel...
Nah, that is just me so far. It's probably worth doing a behind the scenes video to show what's involved in this madness...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia That’s a great idea, i’d like to see your production process in action
Great Video once again - I see on the Alliexpress link it says brand is DAly . Question I have - it says it draws 25mA when running and 10mA when asleep - Do you know from which terminals it draws this power - the post positive and the most negative ? if anything else it will always cause an imbalance over time.
I have the same issue with those terminals, the ones without a stud solder to them. I am think of using a threaded insert. This would be a perfect project(video) for you.
I've had to use a heli-coil on one of mine. Use a drill press and be very careful how deep you run the drill. I ground down a drill bit so it would leave a flat bottom to allow maximum contact with the terminal. So far so good!
@@houstonfirefox What size of screws are you using? My cells have a M4 which I think are too small . I'll like to move up in size. I have another set of cell which came with M6 studs which work great.
@@trevilights I had M6 threads that got stripped out. Re-drilled to accept an M6 Heli-coil, but the hole in the terminal had to be drilled out to a slightly larger size to accept the heli-coil. The Heli-Coil stuck out just a little but took a Dremel and ground it down flush with the top of the terminal, reinstalled the formerly-stripped M6 stud and it's as good as new. If I wasn't using a heli-coil then I'd just drill and tap it for the next size up (M8 in my case)
@@houstonfirefox Thank you. I just order a M6 X 1 kit to give it a try on one cell. I feel that my current M4 bolts are not tight enough and I am afraid of striping the threads if I go too far. In the past I have had some busbar heating up because of loosen bolts.
@@trevilights I guess it would depend on how many amps you were drawing. I know my 'semi-stripped' (weakly held) post would certainly get hot when I put the beans to it but runs as cool as the others now that the heli-coil is in place. I routinely run the backside of a finger across the posts when charging or discharging at high amps to identify any lose connections. Good luck with your post restoration. Just go slow and be focused on the task and you'll be fine!
Great work Andy! Time to celibrate with a couple of cold calibrations I think:-) Where is the video from yesterday that you mentioned?
Andy is probably shooting 3 videos simultaneously, and had to delay editing that video.
Not sure if he gets up at 4am or just doesn't sleep because of backlog of bms' to test.
Nice review. Thank you.
Thanks Kevin!
Question. If i supply this balancer with a 30v external power supply, can i use this to balance the 12x Lifepo4 cells in my 3x 12v nominal Lifepo4 batteries in parallel ???
Yes, that will work, the supply voltage just needs to be 30V+. It will work with 12V (4s) batteries then.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Thank you for the reply. Keep up with great work with the videos. They are always very educational.
This was really a great video on the active balancer.
I would think that an active balancer working, all the time, would help raise the lowest cell in the battery bank, as it is discharging, and then decrease peak batteries as the battery is charging?
I would think that an active battery balancer should increase the usable range of the battery pack?
I don’t think I understand why an active balancer does not work well to balance the pack on the lower voltages, if the active balancer is being used on the charging… or if the active balancer and BMS is balancing during the charging cycle?
@@CaptainProton1 - excuse my ignorance, but if the active balancer takes it out of top balance as the load drains the system, why would the active balancer not balance the battery as it approaches the top again?
It just seems odd to me, unless the active balancer algorithm is not quite good enough yet?
The theory seems good, but the implementation seems poorly executed at this point (ie “exploded caps.)
Must be that chrome dome! Age discrimination would be illegal, but there is always a way!
Hahaha, just polished it this morning 🤠
Do you recommend this balancer with a BMS or JK-BMS with built-in active balancer?
The JK-BMS would be my recommendation but if you already have a BMS with passive balancing, the NEEY is the best option. It works great!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Thank you.
Can I use two smart active balancers by neey in one app?
Do they offer one that uses a lower voltage power supply for us 12v folk?
It works from 2s to 24s, if you use it for a 12V (4s) you just need to have an additional power supply for the balancer. I'll show this in a future video.
What is the name of the app? I can't find it anywhere and my neey did not come with instructions
Hi Andy thank you for your informative videos can you provide me with the link for the Neey balancer as i think this will work for James Cape Town
Hi James, please have a look in the description under the video or here on my website: off-grid-garage.com/battery-management-systems-bms/
The problem with all these new products is just how long will they last before failure? Being safe with our installations & putting items with zero information on MTBF could be a setup for expensive problems.
studs are advantageous in these situations
Is all of Australia on lock down?
Did you strip it man get dye and tap set a good one abs try to re write the threads
Hey, i need some help, please!
I am at the point where the device shows just a blue led and I cant fint the aplication needed for the next step.
Could someone tell me what should I do next?
Completely disconnect and leave it for a while, then reconnect and see if it works again. If not you have to contact the shop were you bought it.
Good day. I have this balancer but app can't find it when I scan. Can you help me with this problem? Thank you.
Buenas noches profesor, tengo problemas con el balanceador sucede lo mismo que mostró en el video la luz roja parpadea y no se conecta la app...
Saludos muchas gracias agradezco su ayuda
9:53 To be clear, _you_ didn't get it wrong. "StartVol(V)" is a *terrible* label for maximum balance deviation.
Hi Andy. I'm wondering if there is an active balancer that combines and manages 1) the current coming directly from the solar panels in order to charge the lowest cells and, 2) balancing the current between cells when there is no current that comes from solar panels?
How much extra juice did the battery take when going from floating at 3.35v/cell to 3.65v/cell?
I've tested this in out Battery Test series here on the channel: ruclips.net/p/PLPomydD54sgC0pAzeOBz_-ZMfGMzJYYWK
Nice NEEEY BMS, but what about the violating the sex and nudity policy? I am curiuos. :)
Hi I want to purchase NEEY active balancer in India. Request your guidance on few queries.
They have specified use above 25v. I have a 8s2p battery system. I know it is a 24v system but it is always charging above the 25v. Would this work on my system
The manual actually says 30V+, so might or might not. But wait, there is help for 12V and 24V users. Coming soon...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Dear, we can guarantee that it will work when the voltage is above 25V. If it is below 25V, please configure additional power supply or boost module, which is the most stable,
Above is what I got from the manufacturer
Hello Andy,you test the sleep voltage,works ok?
Yes, just the video was already too long for adding all the features. This was mainly for testing the balancing capability. More to come!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Ok,I ask this because i have two JK balancers almost to same with yourse,and setting about sleeping voltage do not work.
I have a new NEEY and successfully ballanced a 16s lifepo4 battery pack, but now I am going to ballance a 15s lifepo4 battery pack, after wiring the middle led is flashing with red colours and the device is not detected by the apps. Pls provide possible suggestions
such a shame NEEY dont make one that works with a lower voltage like 12v or 24v for camper van applications
They do now with the large 15A balancer. But this is a bit over the top for a 12V/24V battery.
ruclips.net/video/2RXUdWJ-M7U/видео.html
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaits out of my price range but looks bloody brilliant, I'm sure the quality and development is worth every euro it's just abit much for me.
I was impressed with the cycle and durability of the lto 2.3v 45ah cells. Im trying to making a 6s 2p battery for my camper, learning what I need to to make it safely and well is taking some time (I'm a woodworker by trade) so angry pixies in chemical cell is a little out of my comfort zone but got to start somewhere.
Your content helps alot thank you for your dedication and level of detail.
@@christophersimpson7052We will built a small 12V solar battery system soon to run the SPAT Fridge, so that may help as well...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia im very sure it will i really look forward to it and thank you for engaging with me its very much appreciated
Is this app Apple IOS supported it says in the manual that it supports iOS but I cannot find an app
What brand is the Leaf blower that keeps taunting you? Is there a lower dB solar battery powered version.
Can I use two neey balancers in one app?
will you open the balancer case too see what's inside and how might it be working ?
I can if you like 👍
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I'll be very interested to see the insides of this active balancer.
But wouldn't this void the warranty ?
Hi Offgrid Garage. Super Video. Ich schaue Ihre Videos gerne an. Mein Englisch ist jetzt nich das beste aber ein wenig verstehe ich.
Danke Dir vielmals!
So is it operating voltage of 25v or 30v?
That depends on your battery size and chemistry. They recommend Li-ion battery >=10s, LiFePO4 >= 12s, LTO >=20s. So lower than 30V, you need external power supply.