Deep Space Course - Whirlpool Galaxy Tutorial
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- This is a free video tutorial from my Deep Space Course. I cover my full setup process for photographing the Whirlpool Galaxy with a DSLR, telephoto lens, and Star Tracker. I also explain some tips for using an auto-guider effectively.
If you're interested in learning more about astrophotography check out my Deep Space Course, which has over 15 hours of tutorial videos:
www.peterzelin...
A useful accessory when using a computer for astrophotography is a Mini Wireless Keyboard with built-in track pad.
It is inexpensive, charges via USB, fits easily in a pocket and the keys are back lit.
It allows the computer to be placed for visibility and stability without having to worry about keyboard accessibility.
Your videos are very helpful
I'm moving to LA from the Space Coast in a few months, and I can't wait to go camping in the Mojave with my starguider pro. I plan on capturing so many of the Messier galaxies around the Dippers! These videos help a ton in practice and prep!
Great series of tutorials Peter. Keep them coming mate and G'day from Central Australia. (The Tanami Desert)
I'm progressing with my AP along with you and others. I have a tip if anyone is intersted!
I made myself a to do list. In order of what to do and when. I sometimes found myself rushing to get things done and seemed to always miss a step in setting up. Camera settings, lens cap, batteries, kids, other campers!!!!!…. you name it, I always missed something. I guess it comes with the territory of being on the wrong side of 50! Trust me, after taking two and a half hrs of dark flats it was the kick in the freckle I needed. Anyway, for what it's worth my to do list has made my nights less frustrating. Clear Skies all.
Just got this lens... have the skywatcher... will have to give this a try
You are doing amazing work with a telephoto and a Star Adventurer or its analog by iOptron.
Peter, I have learned a lot from you, appreciate your willingness to teach. I am heading to Arches this summer. I have an almost identical rig. I am working on my autoguider platform...I use a red dot finder in my hot shoe.
Yep. You convinced me to invest in auto guiding. Thanks! You def made it easy for me to understand.
God job, Peter. I really like that you summarize your video at the end.
I have had some issue with good balance with my cameras on the Star Tracker and when you mentioned magnet counter weights, I immediately thought of the salvaged microwave oven magnetron magnets that I have. They are perfect and even have a central hole large enough that allows them to slide up and down with the original counterweight. Great suggestion.
Great video! Helpful to see all the steps laid out together.
A couple critiques and questions: Are you actually able to get good autoguiding with a mount that wobbles as much as you've shown? I know others complain about loosing accuracy simply from the flexure of different ends of a solid mount. I can't imagine there aren't issues being introduced with that hotshoe mount. Impressive if it's working for you though!
Balancing your mount should be done *after* all the cables are connected. Those still add weight, especially if they're dangling like in your setup.
I'm also wondering if you'd have less wobble from the wind if you didn't use the full extension of your tripod? Perhaps letting it sit down on only two extensions would firm things up a fair bit. A little bit of a pain for alignment but once that's done, you're home free.
Thanks again for the videos, I think you're helping out a lot of people.
Great points! I was thinking about lowering the tripod, but I like having everything at eye level. On a windy night though, I should probably do that.
I've been getting great guiding results with my current auto-guider setup. I can easily shoot 5 minutes at 600mm, unless it's windy. Before auto-guiding, I was limited to about 45 seconds at 600mm.
Hey Peter glad to see you made it to Utah.Thanks for the video
Isn't that set up way over the 3kg max payload of the Skyguider Pro?? Or the declination bracket and counter weights are not included when calculating the weight?
When to use bathinov mask in this zoom lens after attaining desired focal length ? So it will change when we focus th Whirlpool during zoom in , zoom out
do you need sharp cap if you are using PHD2? I thought PHD2 did the polar alinging
There is a polar alignment tool in PHD2, but I don't think it's very useful. That's why I use SharpCap for the alignment, then PHD2 for the guiding.
Peter Zelinka yeah unfortunately I have a Mac so I’m unable to use sharpcap haha, thank you!
I am sure I am losing something when you use both sharpcap and phd2. Couldn’t you just use Sharpcap for instance? What is the benefit of joining both applications? I love your videos, many thanks for spending your time and effort illustrating us
I am redoing your entire courses. As you know I jumped into the deep end with Pixinsight and Astro Pixel Processor and doing guided imaging with my EQR-6 PRO mount and various telescopes. Having done that I am finding your lessons much easier, particularly Photoshop which I had developed a strong dislike for but not anymore! Once I get my observatory built I may go back to doing photos with my modded Canon EOS cameras. At present setting up with all the cables and gear only to have it cloud over isn't an enthusiasm builder. Once again I am seeing how well organized and full of detailed instruction your videos are. Ironically I had not subscribed to your You Tube site. I just did. Hope we get some clear skies soon.
I liked the magnet idea for the counter weight.
I don't use magnets. Put one beside your TV screen and see what happens. Yup.... you get a green glow. I don't like the idea of magnets around electronics. For this reason I just use a simple lead fishing sinker(s).
wouldnt it be just as easy to use the cameras noise reduction settings
Hello Peter, thanks for quick tutorial. I would like to say that even if you have 70-200 F4, which is lightweight compare to f2.8 one and much smaller overall, you should be able to take whirlepool galaxy fine and enlarge it in post-processing a bit, as long as your polar alignment is accurate (I don't use auto-guider yet but maybe in the future) my older astrotrac tt320x-ag was able to get some good guiding up to 2 or even 3m with 70-200 and take few successful shots. I was unable to get the same shots with Fuji x-t1 though due to it's lense fx 55-200 being super uncomfortable to use due to focus issues. I'll be taking skywatcher star adventurer mini with me to Republic of Georgia (amazing clear sky one can get in these areas) to try out it out with canon 70-200 f4 with adapter to my fuji mount.
Peter why don't you use APT and get rid of the intervalometer?
One thing at a time haha
Now that I've got the auto-guider mastered, I think I'll look into backyard Nikon or APT. Would be nice to do everything through the laptop
@@PeterZelinka APT is much better a bit more of a learning curve but paradoxically cheaper than Backyard Nikon. You can also get Anydesk which is free and access or control any computer and any device attached to that computer (could be half way across the world) through the one computer that you are in proximity to. Your lessons are quite valuable. Have you written to NASA yet?
@@dankahraman354 thanks for the tip! I'll look into those today.
Not yet, I actually was just thinking about that the other night
Maybe his DSLR is not supported in APT...
@@BrokenPik I believe APT supports Nikon cameras....just not using it right now. What I am intrigued by is Peter's using the autoguider port in the Star Adventurer and PHD2 while disabling the declination correction in PHD2. You have to attach a guide-scope somewhere either on the mount or on the hot shoe of the camera body. Amazing!
Is your dslr modified? Great tutorial
recommendation for guide scope for a star adventurer pro set?
Nice job Peter!
what mm lense are you using ?
Thank you!
Love the videos, thanks! Also love the sound. How do you get studio sound quality from a tiny lapel mic?Are you actually outdoors?
What lens is this you are using?
A question about dark frames. Must the dark frames be taken at the same location as the deep star exposures and why would that be?
If you have a DSLR, the most important aspect of Dark Frames is that the sensor temperature matches between your light frames and dark frames. Therefore, yes. You'd want to take your Dark Frames immediately following your last light frame at the end of the night. If not, they won't "match up" properly and you'll get poor results.
@@PeterZelinka thanks, makes sense.
Where did you buy your hotshoe flash guider plate ? and guider scope?
This article has links to all of my gear. But I bought the guider and scope from highpoint scientific, and the hotshoe adapter on Amazon.
www.peterzelinka.com/blog/2019/4/auto-guiding-with-the-skyguider-pro
do you know a good list of what to photograph at different focal lengths?
I cover that in the full Deep Space Course. If you head over to my website you'll see a list of 10+ objects. They are all good for anyone with 300mm or more. Although I usually recommend between 400mm - 600mm to get the best results.
Hi Peter, great video! Thank you! I am trying to understand though how you have just 1 counterweight for your camera and large zoom lens. I have tried both by D610 and my D850 with my Sigma 150-600mm zoom and need two counter weights and a 3lb dumbell ring...I feel like I am overloading the skyguider at that point as well. Are you using your D750 and the Tamrom 600mm zoom?
The Sigma is noticeably heavier than the Tamron, and the D850 is a bit heavier than my D750. Therefore, you'll definitely need that second counterweight. However, you shouldn't need any additional weight.
Have you mounted your camera on the short end of the declination bracket? That will give you more leverage with the counterweights
@@PeterZelinka Hi Peter thanks for responding - yes I do have it on the short end - trying to eek out as much leverage as possible - I think the fact that I am using an old Vanguard ball head is also working against me. Positioning the camera freely & easily is definitely compromised without it - but I was thinking that my be a helpful route for balance.
@@andreatibke8142 That's definitely your problem, if you're attaching the lens to a ballhead. You need to attach the 150-600mm directly to the declination bracket. You'll still be able to reach any position in the sky, but you'll have a much lower center of gravity. This will really help with the balance.
@@PeterZelinka Excellent, thank you again! 😊
Verry cool thx!
Were you doing any night scapes while you were there? If not there are plenty of other areas that are public lands around Moab where you’ll have no tourists hanging about. But you probably know that already. Good luck on your next session.
It's been too cloudy lately for nightscapes, but I've been scouting for interesting foregrounds. At least there's no one out on a cloudy night!
So much to photograph in that area, much less the rest of southern Utah...enjoy!
Nice upload ☺👍:)
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