Holley jet tuning with a wideband o2
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Been daily driving my 1968 Dodge Dart as I break in some new gears, found my Holley 750 double pumper was a bit rich just for cruising so she needed a jet change. Tuning a Holley carburetor can be a challenge. The use of a wideband o2 sensor is critical for Holley tuning to get the correct Holley jets to make sure you Holley 750 double pumper has a perfect air to fuel ratio for how ever you drive
Fun part of the video was seeing you reach through the scoop and giving her a rev!
Hahha it’s sooooo convenient! Thanks for watching
If you want to tune that light throttle tip in, and up until your primary jets come into play, which I can see you are in and out of, put larger idle bleeds in the primary side only, go up 4 numbers first. You will have to readjust the primary side mixture screws slightly, but the bleeds will still lean the mixture when you are into the transfer slots.
Also, installing transfer slot restrictors in the primary side of the main body really lets you dial in that off idle to before the primary jets start flowing. This is especially a benefit if your engine has a substantial increase in vacuum from idle to 1500-2000 rpm. When the vacuum increases a lot, the engine pulls on the transfer slot fuel a lot more.
You can tune this area and throttle position crisply lean without affecting your drag strip performance at all.
A test in the driveway is good too... I call it the ballpoint pen test... in Park/Neutral, bring revs up to ~2000 and block one of the PIABs...
If it staggers/slows, transition is rich... if it smooths and/or speeds up, transition is lean... helps with which direction to go. Rich transition is fuel from the idle circuit (IFR and idle bleeds, mixture screws) as well as transfer slot fuel.
At light cruise where you are, you should see 14-15:1 AFR. It will make a huge difference in how much fuel you use, how clean the oil stays, and cleaner plugs.
Yes dude you know your jaz. Thanks. I could use transfer slot restrictors to clean up tip and I may just do in future. I don’t have air bleeds or anything. Pretty basic bitch Holley. Hahaha
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Relatively easy to do. 5/32" drill bit, tape marked to 3/16", 10-32 fluted bottoming tap, 10-32x1/8" brass set screws, and a set of pin drill bits and pin drill bit holder. Start with .078" size.
I used to do a bunch of carb tuning in my 70 duster.... i set up a wideband and vacuum gauge in the a piller with a a piller pod i cut to fit up there.... keeps thoz gauges in vision when rompin on it! Lol
I noticed most of cruzin was off idle circuit, i changed the tiny jets as well as the air bleeds.... i got up to 16mpg....360 4speed, 3.55 gears, not bad..... but now the duster has a 6.4 hemi, t56,and gets 27mpg....havent done much of mpg tuning yet!
Nice! Right on. This carb dosnt have removable airbleeds unfortunately. My next carb will for sure. Thanks for watching
Nice Job, That Dart has got to be one of the best sounding cars I've heard! Nice tuning, Car sounds like its running great!
She actually running fantastic. Daily driving her and logging 40-50 miles on a single drive on weekends, no hiway, she is running the best she has.
hey joe, when you removed the front bowl that vaccume cap looked cracked you may want to check it. That would be a big vaccume leak. love the video, cant wait to see the car run.
Thanks for heads I’ll check it out now!
Bro! You have an eye! It was a bit cracked! All tho don’t think it was causing a vacuum leak yet, I can barley pull air thru it but it could have got worse. Thanks so much! Great job and thanks for paying attention!
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop No Problem, l love your channel and I just want you to do well . Cant wait to see you carry the wheels at the track with a Awesome Trans brake Launch.
Great video and well explained. Thanks
Lots more on the channel! Check it out!
Never even thought of priming fuel bowl through the vent. Gosh all these years I primed bowl by removing fuel level sight hole plug on side of bowl. Thanks. Good videos.
It is convenient! Thanks for watching
great video... You can get it even better by changing the Idle feed restrictor size.. I notice when you let off of the throttle it goes rich.. This will help that... You can use either the wire method or drill and tap them out to make your own "jets"
Love how clean that engine bay is...
Andy
Thanks Andy! I’m going to look into this for sure, 👍🏻🍻
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Anytime brother, You will be amazed at how much economy you can get...with the wideband tuning. I fully agree with you.... its the way to go.. Dont be afraid to lean it out at idle/part throttle to see where your setup runs best.. You will be shocked
I was just reading up on the restrictor options, so with out adjustable air bleeds I would drill and tap to make my own, or wire in the metering block method may be a better option, next carb I get will have adjustable bleeds for sure
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Ive done some videos on my channel about it.. I was able to get 16mpg from Casper's 600hp 393W with a tunnel ram and two Holley 660 center squirters! So if you decide to chase that rabbit down the hole you could do better than me.. with a single carb and lighter car. Casper race weight was 4080lbs..
Ya right I have seen a vid of your talking about daily drjving with a tunnel ram on Casper. I’ll re watch it, might be real useful, I have a tunnel ram and a pair of 660 that might make it onto the dart, again, some day. thanks again bro!
Beautiful Dart...
Just a Jedi master over there
These aren’t the jets your looking for
The o2 sensor has helped me a lot- it actually helped me learn to read plugs by tying results to afr numbers. I wouldn’t attempt this stuff without the sensor
Nice to see you fill the bowls threw the vent tubes, So many people don't do that
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thx for taking the time to make this vid. Both our cars share the same gage package and you've motivated me to finally hook up the AFR gage ! 333 inch SBF with Pro Systems 800 double pumper road race carb in a Foxbody vert. Going back to 73 mains and then connect the gage and see what's happening. Thx again from a fellow Canuck, altho I'm in Ontario.
Right on man! They are useful tools for sure! Sounds like a sweet ride thanks for watching 🇨🇦
Beautiful cage ment to say that when it was done
Super clean Dart.
Thanks for the video this is something I been wanting to do to my car for awhile
I recommend! Thanks for watching
Got to love that old school big n little look. Great stance.
Great video, coming from a Ford guy.
Water methanol injection on the street really works. You can drop your fuels octane without having to pull too much timing out.
Beautiful car
Thanks for watching. Lots more on the channel!
Man, that is one clean engine build! I wish mine was that tidy!
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light throttle cruise .......modern car 16 to 1 // old car stock 14.7 to 1 ,,,performance street car pump fuel 13to1 upto 14 to 1 ..
Power valve comes on at vacuum reading just above light throttle cruise as carb progresses to moderate load the vac reading is used to select valve .
The power valve restrictor jet is tuned to set the mixture at moderate to heavy load WOT .
Well fella I need to tell ya I don't like to mess with another mans lady but I'm in love with that thing.i love my 2012 srt but the 67 68 69 darts man I love them rides especially when thier this sweet...love it man...MOPARS
Hell ya brother. Thanks for watching. Check out some race day vids to her in action!
Had that problem with my 408 and a 750 DP. I did the wire in the idle circuit, dropped the primary jets 3 sizes and changed out the accelerator pump cams to finally get it at 12.5 at cruise. My oil always smelled like gasoline...not anymore and I went from 9 mpg to 11 mpg. Changed out the scuffed main and rod bearings shortly after. That was 2 years ago. Just got done changing them out again and could have left them alone. I had a 67 GTO that had a Qjet that dripped gas after the engine was shut off. Too much gas in the oil and at startup it went BOOM. No more valve cover, lifter pan and oil pan gaskets and a quarter sized hole in the #6 piston. An oil pan explosion is what woke me up to carb tuning and maintenance. If you don't have an O2 sensor, you need one. Haven't ran a Q jet since.
Wow! You went thru it all! Thanks for watching
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Lol, ya...The explosion took my stock 5 qt oil pan and turned it into a 6 quart pan...it looked kinda bulgy...
She's pretty turned out great I like everything about it cool we're putting a o2 sensor and gauge I want the sunpro style line gauge as it centers the right setup points to the center you know it's right it lights up
Ya I got mine to match the other gauges but those light ones are sure cool! Thanks for watching
Wow 🤩 Great car love that sound!
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Nice ride
Awesome Joe《☆》Good idea👍 I wonder if any carbs are made with on the fly mixture controls like aircraft have ? 😎🎱☮🔊🖖👍
Not to my knowable. I newer style Holley would offer more tuning abilities tho
I wish my afr gauge would work properly. I have 1 o2 on each header and one side reads different then the other side quite a bit. When I check spark plugs on both sides they're identical. Guess I'm just going to have to tune it the old school way by checking the plugs.
It would be interesting to see how you connected the AFR gauge.
Some transfer slot restrictors may help clean up the low speed without having to jet it to far down and messing with WOT. I’ve spent a lot of time getting big carbs to go down the road cleanly.
What did you have in mind?
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop gotta use some brass set screws and numbered drills. 8-32 or 10-32 x 3/16 will work. You can get them off ebay or at a fastenall. Tap and install them into the transfer slot hole on the metering block face of the carburetor. 4150 carbs I usually start around .078 and adjust from there. It’ll lean out your low speed when you just cruising around. Wish I could upload pics. That’s the trick for running dominators on the street as well. They just like a much smaller restriction.
Glad I invested in one!
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Very nice video once again. Off topic though. you show the 1000 HP Mopar , then you mention 600 HP 408 with fuel injection . I would like to hear more about that set up too
It’s almost the same build as mine with a 4” stroke. Using the edlebrock pro flow efi. Nice unit. All I really know on it
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop so did you run the leaner Jets while you were racing? or change back each time?
Good Vid !
Thanks bro! Lots more on the channel!
That O2 sensor works great! Never had those in the 70's. Just many runs down the quarter mile dialing in our carbs. What brand of header are you running? Looks like ceramic coat? I have 1-3/4" Hookers but the collectors run right into the trans crossmember and makes for a lot of vibration as the pipes hit it. Otherwise they worked great. My 1-7/8" Jr Race headers from the 70's actually fit better!😀
Ya a bit of modern convenience for sure. These are tti headers that I had ceramic coated after I installed the wideband bung. Thanks for watching
I have a 70 camaro with a 383 stroker and an unkown huge cam. I get only 6 inches of idle vacuum. I put a wide band to tune it as it was running pig rich. My wideband moves around much more than yours. I can see swing from 10s to 16s very quickly. Did you ever see this type of behavior? My wideband is an AEM UEGO brand. BTW another thing I noticed you are seeing also (that I see in my car), when you are crusing and you let off the guess the wideband shows a richer mixture. I am not sure why that happens, the butterflies close restricting air but vacuum should increase and cause more timing advance, which should help lean it out rather then richen. Are you using a vacuum advance? Nice Dart by the way.
Great Dart! I'm also rebuilding a 416 for my 68 Dart. Your vids are a great help for sure. Can you tell me which solid roller lifters from Morel you are using? Thanks.
I believe 4723 are the lifters. Thanks for watching sounds like you have a nice dart too!
Off topic but I have a 92 Dakota and want to do the 360 magnum swap…. Recommendations on heads? Thinking 10-10-1/2 to 1 on 93 roller valve train… Sleeper truck… Do you use a solid or hydraulic cam?
Trick flows and a solid cam. Watch my dyno vid for build specs!
A very good piece of info here Joe. Nice to know this. Can the carb air and fuel adjusters be of any help tweaking it a tad? Also, I have a carb spacer to install on my 750 Holley. How much does this change effect air/fuel ratio? Will have I have to readjust the carb after the Carb spacer install? Thanks for sharing this info, was helpful. Cheers from Motown.
Watch my dyno video and you can see some results of how a spacer will affect air fuel ratio. But every motor is different, thansk for watching
If you had a fan shroud, it would help it run cooler.
Fan should for no mech fan
Hey boss, sick ride… it sounds great. I’m new to AFR, have been tuning by vac all these years. Was actually wondering how you mounted the camera in the car to get that “from the rear” cabin view? I’d like to get that same view once I start doing some quarter passes in my GS. Thanks
It’s on the roll cage with a go pro mount. 👍🏻
that's really cool, didn't know idle mixture has nothing to do with primary jets! I generally try for same thing. Maybe 14.5 to PARK, then in NEUTRAL 13.5 or so. Cruising is nice in the 13's. The transition circuit and the "squirter" that allows it to enrichen seem to be where the primary jets come into play. When you WOT up a hill do you check for about 12.7 optimal, and if you were to adjust things, being a double pumper would re-jet the secondary then if it was to lean/rich? I have vac secondary and have been told type of diagram spring is the factor?
Well I was o lay going for a bit of a leaner cruise as this is a drag that sees the streets but was street driving it lots those weeks. I always shoot for full wide open 12:75. Yes you vac secondary spring will determine the rate of how quick your secondary’s open. Thanks for watching
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Thanks man. I got 13.5 WOT all the way on MERGING on highway right up to end of 3rd gear, so I'm thinking of jetting down in the back 1 jet size and re-testing. I think the spring just adjusts the "rate" at which it opens but after 7 seconds of WOT it becomes irrelevant, is my theory. Will test it merging car soon. Thanks man, great car
The benefits of pump gas lol jk wideband is definitely the way to get best mileage and power I recommend it for all performance cars
12,5 - 13 is still pig rich for cruising!
Your right, but race car. It’s better than it was!
Great video. I’m struggling with my carb tune and think I need to just put a wide-band on it to see where I’m at. Car is mostly a drag car but will see some street use from time to time. I only have a set of long tube headers on the car now. Where would you recommend installing the sensor and does it matter which bank you install it on?
Mines on drivers side just makes wiring easier and just install so condensation won’t sit on it ( on top of collector) a wide band will definitely help you with both power and drive-ability. 👍🏻 thanks for watching
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop. Thanks for the advice and quick response!
you may need to change your power valve to 6.5 vacuum
I have a street strip car i run no o2s on my long tubes it is a carb car. Question is can i run one of these with out o2 or is there another way of tuning this. Iam teaching myself all the help is thankful. P.S. beuatiful car..
You can’t use the gage in the car without the sensor in exhaust. Lots of old school way to tune a carb tho! Reading plugs and use of a vacuum gage will be the way, thanks for watching
Hi, what fuel are you using, using the AFR gauge, I looked up Autometer AFR Gauge and asked that question and Autometer said that the AFR gauge is not compatible with leaded fuel
Ya not leaded. We get 94 at the pump at chevron up here 🇨🇦
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop ok, thanks
Installed a wideband on my racecar with headers an about and 18" extension. Two questions you might be able to help with. Does cam overlap cause a false lean reading? Do you know how far from the exhaust tip you need to be to prevent reading fresh air? Ours is reading ridiculously lean and I just don't trust the reading
It should have at least 12” of exhaust behind it and it will prob be all over the place at idle. Open headers make it more difficult for sure.
You can lean out the primaries more than this. My car cruises between 13.5 and 14.5 depending on rpm. Idle in gear 14-14.5 and in park 13.5-14. To run good at wot rear needs to be much richer, in my case afr is 12.5-13. This way my car does 11mpg with 740hp big block.
Yep you got it. I could go further but I’m happy here. Was out driving shaving today and ripped in harder that I have been and it was 14+ so I’m good for now
What should it be at idle and cruise
Are you running 1 or 2 o2 sensors and if 1... did it matter what side you put it on?
I’m just running one. We ran 2 on dyno tho. It dosnt matter what side you put it on but drivers side is more convenient for wiring.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop cool thanks
Just wondering what jet you had in the rear? I recently switched to a 750 dp from a 650 dp and I'm not sure where to start with the jetting.
Well every engine is different but the engine will take what it needs. Start with stock jetting and go from there and use a wide band o2! Thanks for watching
Hey bro, I wanted to ask you where you put your O2 sensor on your Dart
The header collector
I heard you say "it got pretty hot" . What do you call pretty hot? My 440 Charger usually hangs around little under 190 but it did get up to 196 (hot day stuck in South Florida traffic) and I felt that was pretty hot.
Ya it was 200 for a bit. I stopped and let her cool down for a bit. It was a super hot day out tho. Did a drive yesterday and it was 180 the whole time
when you changing the power valve do you have to change the jets at the same time
No they aren’t connected that way. The jets provide main fuel. The power opens to add fuel when you floor it (depending on what power valve you have)
If you use a heated O2 sensor, you can put it on a strap and shove it up the tailpipe, at least 6 inches, with a clamp on the strap. You may have to get creative with the wire run back into the cabin, but it works fine.
What size jets are you running on the secondary
When your just driven around you never get into the primary's, t slots and idle circuits is all that's being used. If you want to lean it out for daily driven turn your 4 corner idle circuits in a 1/4 turn, 13.5-14.5 for cruising 12.5 when your hammer down.
I think thats dependent on speed, gearing etc. I am in the primaries often cruising around. Not in the secondary's though
@@cuzz63 If he takes away from the primary it will create a stumble and or a lean issue on hard acceleration. To many people think that the jetting is a tuning device. 99% of the time you don't have to stray to far from the factory jetting. The kwik and easy way to make the mopar run around town is with the idle circuits. If that's not good enough drill and tap for bleeds in the idle curcuit to clean it up even more.
Obviously I was out of the idle circuit because my jet change, changed the a f r.
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@@jcnewbee8124 not really true about the primary jets, thats handled more by the primary accelerator pump. Hard acceleration brings in the power valve as well as the secondary's..not even sure why your posting stuff like that.
I agree sticking close to factory jets.
Hey man, off topic but..did you do a disc brake swap up front? I'm about to get a '67 with front drums, 5 on 4" pattern I believe. Trying to figure out swap options
Hey bud! All good man, the car came with disc up front that previous opener did. I actually have a 73, I believe, K member that it seems like they just swaped brakes over with it. Pop on summit and fill in categories for a swap kit is the way I would go. I will upgrade front brakes soon tho. Thanks for watching
You can use 73 and up A body spindles rotors bearings etc. Be sure to get the matching control arms as they have the larger ball joints same as B and E bodies and that will give you the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern for a better selection of wheels...all will bolt on your original k frame.
@@mike05hdfatboy yes 73 to 76
Nice! What size carb are you running ?
750 double pumper
Mine is fat at idle and 1/4 throttle is 10-11, and can’t get it to 14.7 at idle its running 11.7 have 69 primary 76 rear in a 750 cfm idle s
You should be able to adjust your mix screws to get you 14 ish at idle. If you can’t but you have airbleeds you could swap some of the idle air bleeds to get there
What was the part # you used for the 02 wideband you have?
Not sure hop on summit and take a loook, thanks for watching
Higher the number the leaner it is?
Yes....its kind of an air (13) to fuel (1) ratio
You got it
You still have to pull the plugs to check each cylinder.
Im running a new dominator 1050 on my 555. Its running rich on idle. What is the best way to fix that? Ive ajusted the 4 corners to get as much vacuum as possible but its still rich.
If your using a wide band adjust it there don’t worry about vacuum
can you open the rear barrels up a little to add some air.
@@70smemories id have to look. Havnt messed with the car for a few months
How’s car bro? I haven’t seen your channel in a bit they unsubscribed me I think
Damm ya cars hood. Still workingon her just no time to make vids go to my Facebook page to see more daily content!
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop I got my twin turbo 360 running gotta finish cold side and tune
Is that a 360 ci motor?
Yes in this vid. 414 Stroker now
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Nice.
So much easier to tune with a wideband.
You may be faster with the 71's?
Maybe, but Driving around further on it it goes too lean when I put my foot into it.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Yeah, it can become a balancing act. You still have the best car on the web.
How much is fuel that far north
Im in tx here
Welllllllll it’s a lot. I pay 1.89 a littler. 3.78 litters in gallon. But exchange is 1.3 so I pay 9.28! Geeze. I think that’s right. For 94 at the pump.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop 93 is around 3.40 here
It was 2.40 a yr ago
@@323gtx88 I did that math wrong I pay 5.49 a gallon in US dollars.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop clean car great workmanship love it
I need to get off my a$$ and finish my projects
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I'm almost in shock that a young adult would be wearing flip flops .. driving a car .. I've seen my share of accident happen because of idiots wearing flip flops ..but todays guys are a bit more feminine than past generations .. You would never see a man standing in a repair shop wearing flip flops like you do today ...
Oh my god flip flops! Cal the cops! What a travesty!