Well, it's working for now, Mike. We'll see if it's still working in a few days. It's too bad, because the diesel looks good and sounds good, but so many people have had problems with it that I've lost my confidence in BLI, and for now at least, I'm not going to buy a second one. ...Roy
great work Roy. I enjoy your videos - not bad music either ! :) I have the CSX#623. I did a few things right out of the box via JMRI. 1. Changed ditch trigger to bell from horn 2. lowered all the volumes 3. turned off the unrealistic cab light The loco does run smooth and sounds great. It was lackluster in its pulling capabilities. This loco had difficulty pulling more than 7 cars through the elevation points on the layout. My atlas Trainmaster loco can pull more [10 cars] up the 2.5% grade whilst navigating a hairpin at 22 " radius. This is supposed to be a powerhouse. My rear coupler also is out of sorts. It failed the microtrains coupler test ; but I have a fear of repairing as I expect the loco to quit on me based on others' experiences. There are also some operating bugs, such as ditch lights do not work in reverse -- unless....you are moving forward first, activate ditch lights, then reverse. The detail, paint and sound are great. The loco is smooth, but reliability is suspect.
Thanks, Brian. I agree with your evaluation of this unit, and I plan to make the same CV changes that you've made. Right now, the sound is painfully loud, and that cab light has to go. I am especially exasperated by the rear coupler. I have a Micro-Trains coupler gauge and hopefully I can do the MT test this afternoon. ...Roy
Good luck Roy - changing the trigger for the bell is much more realistic, not sure why BLI chose the horn, the fact that the bell locks to an "on" position will keep the ditches flashing without pauses. Oh and BTW I love the 3d effect of the streets on your backdrop. Did you do a video on the backdrop yet? looks great
Your western desert scenery looks so good and is the best I've ever seen on any layout. It reminds me of western colorado and southeastern utah....areas I know well and spent many years enjoying. Thanks for showing your ac6000 and layout.
Thank you, Mike. That's very kind of you. I really appreciate it. I'm absolutely fascinated by western desert scenery, which is why I chose to give my layout a desert setting. ...Roy
Im happy to see that you have had no issues with yours. From what ive been hearing there have been so many faulty units that certain hobby stores are no longer accepting returns and people are having to send them straight to BLI. I've got a few BLI locos, but i think ill hold off buying one of these. Its sad as i liked their locos, but living in Australia i dont want to risk spending that kind of money fore what could possibly end up being a paper weight.
Thanks, xrayracer. Well, the unit hasn't died - YET. And I'm hopeful that it will continue to run as well as it does right now. I do have to change the CV's for sound volume and lights, but most of all, I need to figure out why that rear coupler doesn't want to work very well. I've never had a problem with a Micro-Trains coupler before. I've decided not to buy a second BLI AC6000 until I'm sure that I can do so with confidence. I understand your concerns about returning it, since you live in Australia. I live in Panama City, Panama, and I can easily receive mail and packages, but it's a big challenge to send mail to the States. So, like you, I'm going to wait, rather than run such a risk. ...Roy
Nice to see your's is working well, Roy. I took my first step into DCC this weekend. I purchased an Atlas Western Pacific GP35 with a decoder. I haven't run it yet, that will have to wait until I get home and get a DCC system. I have a DCC and sound equipped Athearn Challenger and boy, is it loud! I'll be able to change that when I get my system.
Me, too. I am frustrated by that rear coupler, however. I've got a Micro-Trains coupler gauge and need to do the MT coupler test, hopefully this afternoon. I anticipate that you will be happy with DCC. I know I am. It's nice to be able to focus on the locomotive itself, instead of a big control panel with a bunch of toggle switches, such as I had on a layout I built years ago. ...Roy
Roy. Your Jan 13, 2016 video "Should you hide your helix?" is very interesting. I liked your discussion about how you determined your minimum radius' and method of keeping to constant grades. Answered many helix questions. Your latest engine will look good on the point as it goes up and down your visible helix. Mike
Thanks, Mike. To me, the "western" (open) helix is so much better than the "eastern" (hidden) helix, because I can easily access the track to clean it and in case of derailments or unwanted uncouplings. I'm planning to do an update on the "western" helix, describing how I built I and why I chose to leave it open, as several people have asked me to do. I agree: I like to run my diesels in multiple-unit consists. It looks so much more prototypical than a single engine, and it definitely enables me to run much longer trains. ...Roy
Roy. What is in the box is always fun. Rear engine coupler may need a closer look along with the car being coupled to. That IS a bright cab light. Nice looking addition. Mike
Yes, it is fun, Mike. Just like Christmas! I've tried to couple the rear coupler to various cars, all having Micro-Trains couplers like the engine, and got the same results. I've never had a problem with a Micro-Trains coupler before. I've got to get my Micro-Trains coupler gauge out and do a coupler test. That cab light is annoyingly bright. I'm going to change the CV to shut it off. ...Roy
Mike, I've checked out that rear coupler with my Micro-Trains coupler gauge and kind find no deviations. The coupler appears to be behaving like a "dummy" coupler, just like the dummy couplers on my Kato coalporters. That is, it won't couple up to cars automatically, so I have to couple it manually by lifting the car coupler into the engine coupler, and when I do this, it stays coupled. Dummy couplers are okay on coalporters which run as unit trains and aren't switched out, but dummy couplers are not okay on diesels. I'm not a hundred percent sure that this is the problem, but it does look that way. I'm continuing to investigate and will try to contact BLI about this. ...Roy
Hello Roy! This is Robert from Miami! Look since my trains are all O scale sets, I'm actually a rockie as for n scale is concerned, but watching your videos has inspired me to dabble in n scale! Look, I'm after a couple of Kato track deals on Ebay! They are:: Kato n scale unitrack compact Oval, which is an oval track set and Kato n kat20-182 19"/15" 45 Degree Easement and this one has 4 packs of double track! Besides the locomotive and power pack, what else I need??
Thanks, Steve. It's really encouraging to hear from someone who has had success with these two units. I hope to buy 7541 eventually, depending on whether or not 7512 continues to run well. ...Roy
Hi Roy, your new AC6000 looks great and sounds great also. I am impressed on how smooth it runs at slow speed. I don’t have one at this time but maybe I will purchase one in the future. I will wait to see if more reviews are given to see if there are any more problems occur in the future. I hope the one you got will give you good performance for a long time. Randy
Thanks, Randy. Yes, I think the way it runs at slow speeds is one of the best things about it. I've been thinking about also buying #7541, but I'm going to wait for a while to see how #7512 continues to run. ...Roy
I bought two Southern pacific ac 6000 and love them. They run slow for drag freights a typical thing with SP. Yours runs good too. I have had two units sent back to BLI for decoder problems and were fixed quickly. Now no problems. Lots of detail on BLI. Thanks
It was a pleasure. I'm very happy with the new SD70ACe. A second BNSF diesel (an ES44AC) is on the way to me in the mail and should be arriving any day now. The BNSF diesel really stands out with its bright colors on a layout otherwise populated by UP diesels. ...Roy
N-Scale Union Pacific Evanston Subdivision I was really happy to see this video that you made so I could see your thoughts on the locomotive as I was thinking of purchasing the same locomotive just in CSX Leverage even though most of the stuff on my layout will be Union Pacific equipment all we have around here is CSX and Northfolk Southern because I'm in Florida and this is a land of CSX. Railfans nickname this CSX country.
hi Roy... awesome loco... too bad about the issues with the rear coupler... to be honest i like the start up with the ESU sounds more prototypical as to what a prototype GE sounds like.. too bad BNSF didn't have the 6000's.... any how congrates on your new toy... vinny
Thanks, Vinny. I can change the CV's to turn out that bright cab light, and I can lower the sound volume. But I'm exasperated by that rear coupler. I've got to check it out with my Micro-Trains coupler gauge. I never had a problem with an MT coupler before. By the way, I agree with you on the ESU sounds. ...Roy
Yes, indeed, Bob, those cab lights are downright blinding. I'm going to change the CV to shut off the cab light. None of my other diesels have cab lights, and almost all of them are Katos. I'm also going to adjust the CV to reduce the sound volume, which is now painfully loud. Most importantly, though, I'll have to do the Micro-Trains coupler test and do something about that problematical rear coupler. ...Roly
Def run with cab light off. Easy way to modernize it would be Smokebox Graphics Stripes and some white paint on the handrails. Looks like a decent runner for your coal trains.
Thanks, Mike. I have found that it's very easy to turn off the cab light permanently by setting CV 208 to "0." The default setting that comes with the AC6000 is "3", so the cab light shuts off at speed step 3 until you change the CV value. None of my other diesels have cab lights. Right now, I've got a bunch of diesels that need to be "modernized" with yellow stripes. I always like to run my diesels in multiple-unit consists, so eventually I will pick one of my diesels, speed match it to run well with the AC6000, and run them together. ...Roy
That's not surprising, Ted. I'm modeling a portion of the Union Pacific Evanston Subdivision between Green River WY and Echo UT, and I'm certainly trying to "capture the feel" of that area. So it's no surprise that Rock Springs comes to mind. Thanks for watching. ...Roy Here's a short description of my layout:ruclips.net/video/ZHzrKeTJUFw/видео.html
Hey Roy, Nice blockhead you got! It looks to me like the coupler is not sprung in the right manner-maybe bad spring. I guess i"m hoping its a small problem that you can fix. Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks, Ralph. I'm going to either replace the rear coupler with a new MTL 1015 or perhaps both couplers with 1016s. I trust that will fix the problem. I certainly need a functioning rear coupler on this loco. ...Roy
well the start up on the Kato, well it a rough start, so to me sounds better. but this is of your new AC6000. does N scale have the function key to release the rear coupler? maybe thats it. looks to pull ok to me. don't need to many more cars than that nice new unit. and thanks for sharing
Thanks, Sparky. It's a pleasure, as always. I agree. I like the sound on the Kato unit better, too. And I'm certainly not worried about the Kato unit dying on me at any moment the way I am about the BLI unit. To be honest, I've never heard of a function key to release a coupler in N-scale. I don't think there is such a thing in N-scale, but I'll have to investigate. The first thing I have to do, though, is a coupler test using my Micro-Trains coupler gauge. Hopefully, I'll have a chance to do that this afternoon. ...Roy
good review Roy. you were spot on about the loco. you sound like your really like it waiting on one to come out in n scale i know is a bit of a pill sometimes. BWL needs to do some work on all their units not just ac6000 series. my friend bought a set of centipedes and well lets just say they didn't run very well at all and if you are hearing of a lot of DOA coming up on reviews for the amount of money we spend on these units they should be making it right with the customers. hope all works out for you with it. it is a great looking unit love the detail. too bad about the pulling power though. that is what i like about these big road units.
Thanks, James. It's a beautiful looking loco, but unfortunately it has some issues. Too many people have had serious problems with it, such as it being DOA. My most serious issue (so far) is that non-functioning rear coupler, but I can replace that easily enough. It's a shame that BLI has had so many problems with this unit. Originally, I was planning to buy a second unit, but now I'm going to wait. ...Roy
I've never owned a BLI locomotive in either HO nor N scale before. When I switched to N scale almost a year ago due to the lack of space, My first N was the AC6000. (GE road name) and because I purchased it online, I had to wait for it to come in the mail. Once I received it, on the test track it went. Right out of the box it ran as expected but I didn't care much for the "echo" of the horn nor do I care for the extreme bright light inside the cab of the loco... I can't understand for the life of me. why BLI decided to put such a blinding white light inside the cab. just a bit too bright for my liking!! Still not sure how to dim that light to something less brilliant. I also found that I ended up having to do a Hardware reset to the decoder. Not as easy as it seems. The ditch lights flashed irregularity and the crew chat "Chattered" when not requested. Not a brand I would purchase as a loco again.
Congrats..Roy on the new unit. It looks great and seems to be working fine. I do have a question..I had asked this once before but, I never got an answer. You mentioned that your helix is a 2% grade.. what is the radius? Thank you.. Tom
Thanks, Tom. Thanks for asking about the radius a second time. I apologize if I missed it the first time. The radius of track on that helix is based on the Kato super-elevated double-track I used there (No 20-181). The radius of the outer track is 16 and 3/8 inches, and the radius of the inner track is 15 inches. I uploaded a video about my helixes back in January 2016. This video describes how I built my two helixes, the difference between them, and the track I used in them. To watch it, just click here: ruclips.net/video/NYYcosEBTNc/видео.html. ...Roy
Roy, thank you for the reply. I went back and watched that helix video again..I even commented at that time..I just don't remember it. I am amazed that your trains run excellent up and down the helix..and from everything I read.. you need 20" or larger. You proved you don't. Your engines negotiate the helix just fine and you are able to pull a fair amount of coal porters. Thank you again for the info. Tom
Hey Roy, another fine video. Did you have a chance to see the recent solar eclipse? If so I hope you saved the safety glasses for your crew. Looks like they'll need them when the cab lights are on. Or maybe a welder's mask will do. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Collin. No, I missed the eclipse. I don't think it was visible down here in Panama. But you're right about the safety glasses for the crew (ha!). I'm going to change some of the CV's. For example, I've got to get rid of that blinding light. And I want to reduce the sound volume. Most of all, I've got to do something about that rear coupler, but I'm not sure what just yet. ...Roy
Your helix track curves are super-elevated? I was of the mind that super elevated track curves on a model layout, was just cosmetic. But does it actually help keep cars on the track curves?
Yes, Jonnken, the helix curves are super-elevated in my "eastern" helix (seen in the video). But they are not super-elevated in my "western" helix. I'm not sure, but I think that super-elevation is purely cosmetic on a model layout. I used super-elevated curves on my "eastern" helix because Kato double-tracked curves are super-elevated, and my mainline (which goes through the helix) is double-tracked. So it was easier to use the double track in the helix. Somewhere, I remember reading that it's not a good idea to use super-elevated curves in a helix, but I don't remember why. In any case, I used single track side-by-side in my "western" helix (which is much more accessible than the "eastern" helix), but otherwise I haven't noticed any real difference in how the trains run in the two helixes. I describe my two helixes in a video I uploaded way back in January 2016 here: ruclips.net/video/NYYcosEBTNc/видео.html. ...Roy
Hi Roy, I think I'd be a bit disappointed with AC6000, those gaps around the front windscreen are a absolute disaster, to me the focal point of any locomotive is that front view and those gaps just kill it. hope they re work the model at some stage and improve the rest of is pretty good, except the cab light also Cheers
Thanks so much for your comment. The AC6000 definitely has some issues and problems, especially when compared to my Katos. That non-functioning rear coupler is especially irritating to me. As for the cab light, I turned it off altogether by setting CV208 to 0, since there is no way to simply dim it. Better to turn it off than to be blinded by it. ...Roy
Hi Roy, I heard from my friend he said the Broadway n scale AC6000 with dcc and sound locomotive always have the overheat problem and It will burnout very easy. Do you have the same problem? Which DCC controller you are using? Thanks. Tam
No problems so far, although I know that many others have had problems with this unit. I did turn off that very bright cab light. I use NCE DCC and control my layout with an NCE PowerCab. ...Roy
HK Tam also, warning if you run this locomotive on DC you may blow up the decoder it depends upon the unit, and unlike any other normal decoder Broadway Limited decoders have a transmitter on them so you can connect to the Paragon sound system by radio. so you have to get a Broadway limited decoder or you can just completely switch the locomotive to any other decoder manufacturer.
Roy, nice video. I have the same number and it works decent. My first one arrived DOA (7541) Luckily the store replaced it with the 7512. Not the best puller but does a decent job. I've noticed with the Lenz decoder some issues, ie. no response to throttle, or slow response to adjustments, but let's hope they don't affect you. In terms of your coupler issues, not very pleased with but they work, seem like bli is trying to copy scale trains. Either way Keep up the great videos!!! Chris
Thanks, Chris. I'm glad your second one turned out better. I was thinking about also buying 7541, but I've decided to wait a while to see whether 7512 continues to run. I've already turned off the cab light, which is too bright, and turning down the sound should be easy. But I guess I'm going to have to replace that rear coupler, which is a serious issue. Hopefully, that won't be too hard to do. ...Roy
Thanks, Chris. I'm glad the store replaced your 7541. It's unfortunate that so many people have had the same kind of DOA experience that you had. Mine continues to run okay, but I will have to replace that rear coupler. That's really a critical issue that I've never had with any previous purchases. There doesn't seem to be a CV option for dimming the cab light, so I've turned it off altogether but setting CV 208 to 0. ...Roy
Congrats Roy! You got the BLI AC6000 that I suggested. Are you planning to buy BLI's Rolling Thunder subwoofer when it becomes available on the market (and, hence, at MB Klein)? Regarding your coupler problem, do you have the handy little tool made by Micro-Trains--its N scale coupler height gauge--to measure if BLI installed the coupler at the correct height? If the coupler height is off, that could be causing your problems. Here's a link to that Micro-Trains tool at MB Klein (which currently has 40 in stock): www.modeltrainstuff.com/Micro-trains-N-1055-Coupler-Height-Gauge-p/mtl-98800031.htm -from Tom Pilling
Thanks, Tom. No, I don't think I'm going to buy the subwoofer, at least not until I feel more confident about it. Then we'll see. I just hope it's not too big and too heavy to come to come to me in the mail here in Panama. Yes, I do have a Micro-Trains coupler gauge, and it's laying right here on the front of my layout. I've got to do the coupler "test" to see what I can find out. I've never had a problem with a Micro-Trains coupler before. ...Roy
Roy, about the overly bright cab light, is there a CV to dim them without turning them off? I'm wondering if the BLI manual you received with your loco says anything about such CV settings. -from Tom Pilling
No, it doesn't appear that the light can be dimmed, Tom. You can adjust the speed at which the cab light turns off or stays on permanently, using CV 208. The factory setting is 3, which means the cab light turns off at speed step 3. So you can turn the cab light completely off by setting CV 208 to "0" but I can't find any way to just dim it, which is what I really would like to do. ...Roy
micro trains couplers have become problemsome on many of their newest cars. Sad as they were top of the line for so long. The thunder would make your loco sound much better.
Thanks for your comment, Mark. I appreciate it. I’m going to replace that 1015 rear coupler on the AC6000 with a new one to see if that solves the problem. Or I may end up replacing both couplers with 1016’s. I’m not sure which yet. Either way, I definitely need a functioning coupler on the rear of the unit. ...Roy
Hi Roy! Did you see that TSG Multimedia gave you a photo credit in one of their recent RUclips videos for what a model train cab light should NOT look like. The picture of your new BLI AC6000 in front of Green River depot on your layout appears from 7:46 to 8:00 (14 entire seconds) in TSG's video, which you can link to here: ruclips.net/video/0-kHNtW1P-Y/видео.html Again, I am so sorry for ever having recommended that you buy this BLI AC6000. -from Tom Pilling
Thank you for bringing this to my attention, Tom. I didn't see it previously. I must tell you that I did give TSG Multimedia permission to use that photo in advance, but I now regret that I did so, because I feel they used it in a manner that is irrelevant to their video about an HO-scale diesel. Also, I feel they used in a manner that is in poor taste. It's an unwritten "law" in model railroading that you never ever make fun of someone else's layout or equipment. That, essentially, is what I said in a comment I posted on their video. Please don't regret having recommended the AC6000 to me. I researched it thoroughly on the Internet before buying it. It continues to run perfectly, and I love the sound. It really only has two issues, both of which are easily corrected: First, the bright cab light, which I've turned off by adjusting the appropriate CV. And second, the non-functioning rear coupler, which I can replace. In other words, I am quite happy with it. Thanks again for bringing the TSG Multimedia video to my attention. ...Roy
Oh Roy, I didn't bring this TSG Multimedia video snippet to your attention because I thought it was done in poor taste. Quite the contrary, I thought it was in good taste. It relates to HO Scale modeling (and to all scales, for that matter), insofar as achieving a desirable prototypical lighting standard for a model diesel cab. That's how I took it. I didn't find TSG's point illustrated with your photo to be offensive. They merely intended it as a criticism to those model train manufacturers that have such lax quality control standards as to allow a diesel model with something so unprototypical as an excessively bright cab light to be sold at such a high price. TSG certainly didn't intend to deride you personally as a N scale modeler. I saw it as a "Thumbs Up" to your supurb modeling abilities, but that you unfortunately received a product (as so many of us have these days) that was not properly vetted and improved by thorough quality control practices of the manufacturer. Dan and Mike at TSG Multimedia are really some great guys who do a great service to our hobby! -from Tom Pilling
![Kodak Black - Versatile 4 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VcP_1Ua__vY/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks Roy , Glad yours works fine . We have decided to send all of our back to our distributor.
Mike
Well, it's working for now, Mike. We'll see if it's still working in a few days. It's too bad, because the diesel looks good and sounds good, but so many people have had problems with it that I've lost my confidence in BLI, and for now at least, I'm not going to buy a second one. ...Roy
great work Roy. I enjoy your videos - not bad music either ! :)
I have the CSX#623. I did a few things right out of the box via JMRI.
1. Changed ditch trigger to bell from horn
2. lowered all the volumes
3. turned off the unrealistic cab light
The loco does run smooth and sounds great. It was lackluster in its pulling capabilities. This loco had difficulty pulling more than 7 cars through the elevation points on the layout. My atlas Trainmaster loco can pull more [10 cars] up the 2.5% grade whilst navigating a hairpin at 22 " radius. This is supposed to be a powerhouse.
My rear coupler also is out of sorts. It failed the microtrains coupler test ; but I have a fear of repairing as I expect the loco to quit on me based on others' experiences. There are also some operating bugs, such as ditch lights do not work in reverse -- unless....you are moving forward first, activate ditch lights, then reverse.
The detail, paint and sound are great. The loco is smooth, but reliability is suspect.
Thanks, Brian. I agree with your evaluation of this unit, and I plan to make the same CV changes that you've made. Right now, the sound is painfully loud, and that cab light has to go. I am especially exasperated by the rear coupler. I have a Micro-Trains coupler gauge and hopefully I can do the MT test this afternoon. ...Roy
Good luck Roy - changing the trigger for the bell is much more realistic, not sure why BLI chose the horn, the fact that the bell locks to an "on" position will keep the ditches flashing without pauses. Oh and BTW I love the 3d effect of the streets on your backdrop. Did you do a video on the backdrop yet? looks great
Your western desert scenery looks so good and is the best I've ever seen on any layout. It reminds me of western colorado and southeastern utah....areas I know well and spent many years enjoying. Thanks for showing your ac6000 and layout.
Thank you, Mike. That's very kind of you. I really appreciate it. I'm absolutely fascinated by western desert scenery, which is why I chose to give my layout a desert setting. ...Roy
Im happy to see that you have had no issues with yours. From what ive been hearing there have been so many faulty units that certain hobby stores are no longer accepting returns and people are having to send them straight to BLI. I've got a few BLI locos, but i think ill hold off buying one of these. Its sad as i liked their locos, but living in Australia i dont want to risk spending that kind of money fore what could possibly end up being a paper weight.
Thanks, xrayracer. Well, the unit hasn't died - YET. And I'm hopeful that it will continue to run as well as it does right now. I do have to change the CV's for sound volume and lights, but most of all, I need to figure out why that rear coupler doesn't want to work very well. I've never had a problem with a Micro-Trains coupler before. I've decided not to buy a second BLI AC6000 until I'm sure that I can do so with confidence. I understand your concerns about returning it, since you live in Australia. I live in Panama City, Panama, and I can easily receive mail and packages, but it's a big challenge to send mail to the States. So, like you, I'm going to wait, rather than run such a risk. ...Roy
Nice to see your's is working well, Roy. I took my first step into DCC this weekend. I purchased an Atlas Western Pacific GP35 with a decoder. I haven't run it yet, that will have to wait until I get home and get a DCC system. I have a DCC and sound equipped Athearn Challenger and boy, is it loud! I'll be able to change that when I get my system.
Me, too. I am frustrated by that rear coupler, however. I've got a Micro-Trains coupler gauge and need to do the MT coupler test, hopefully this afternoon. I anticipate that you will be happy with DCC. I know I am. It's nice to be able to focus on the locomotive itself, instead of a big control panel with a bunch of toggle switches, such as I had on a layout I built years ago. ...Roy
I think I will be. I took a big leap today and ordered a decoder for my Kato UP FEF. I watched their video and was surprised how easy it is!
Thank you for the awesome video of your n scale bli up ac6000cw.
Roy. Your Jan 13, 2016 video "Should you hide your helix?" is very interesting. I liked your discussion about how you determined your minimum radius' and method of keeping to constant grades. Answered many helix questions. Your latest engine will look good on the point as it goes up and down your visible helix. Mike
Thanks, Mike. To me, the "western" (open) helix is so much better than the "eastern" (hidden) helix, because I can easily access the track to clean it and in case of derailments or unwanted uncouplings. I'm planning to do an update on the "western" helix, describing how I built I and why I chose to leave it open, as several people have asked me to do. I agree: I like to run my diesels in multiple-unit consists. It looks so much more prototypical than a single engine, and it definitely enables me to run much longer trains. ...Roy
Roy. What is in the box is always fun. Rear engine coupler may need a closer look along with the car being coupled to. That IS a bright cab light. Nice looking addition. Mike
Yes, it is fun, Mike. Just like Christmas! I've tried to couple the rear coupler to various cars, all having Micro-Trains couplers like the engine, and got the same results. I've never had a problem with a Micro-Trains coupler before. I've got to get my Micro-Trains coupler gauge out and do a coupler test. That cab light is annoyingly bright. I'm going to change the CV to shut it off. ...Roy
Mike, I've checked out that rear coupler with my Micro-Trains coupler gauge and kind find no deviations. The coupler appears to be behaving like a "dummy" coupler, just like the dummy couplers on my Kato coalporters. That is, it won't couple up to cars automatically, so I have to couple it manually by lifting the car coupler into the engine coupler, and when I do this, it stays coupled. Dummy couplers are okay on coalporters which run as unit trains and aren't switched out, but dummy couplers are not okay on diesels. I'm not a hundred percent sure that this is the problem, but it does look that way. I'm continuing to investigate and will try to contact BLI about this. ...Roy
Hello Roy! This is Robert from Miami! Look since my trains are all O scale sets, I'm actually a rockie as for n scale is concerned, but watching your videos has inspired me to dabble in n scale!
Look, I'm after a couple of Kato track deals on Ebay! They are:: Kato n scale unitrack compact Oval, which is an oval track set and Kato n kat20-182 19"/15" 45 Degree Easement and this one has 4 packs of double track! Besides the locomotive and power pack, what else I need??
Nice video Roy!I own 2 AC 6000s,love them both! Union Pacific ,7512&7541these units are awesome!
Thanks, Steve. It's really encouraging to hear from someone who has had success with these two units. I hope to buy 7541 eventually, depending on whether or not 7512 continues to run well. ...Roy
Hi Roy, your new AC6000 looks great and sounds great also. I am impressed on how smooth it runs at slow speed. I don’t have one at this time but maybe I will purchase one in the future. I will wait to see if more reviews are given to see if there are any more problems occur in the future. I hope the one you got will give you good performance for a long time.
Randy
Thanks, Randy. Yes, I think the way it runs at slow speeds is one of the best things about it. I've been thinking about also buying #7541, but I'm going to wait for a while to see how #7512 continues to run. ...Roy
I bought two Southern pacific ac 6000 and love them. They run slow for drag freights a typical thing with SP. Yours runs good too. I have had two units sent back to BLI for decoder problems and were fixed quickly. Now no problems. Lots of detail on BLI. Thanks
Thanks for your comment, Mark. It's good to know that BLI responded quickly when you had a problem. ...Roy
It's always exciting to get a new toy on the layout, thank you for showcasing this Great Locomotive.
It was a pleasure. I'm very happy with the new SD70ACe. A second BNSF diesel (an ES44AC) is on the way to me in the mail and should be arriving any day now. The BNSF diesel really stands out with its bright colors on a layout otherwise populated by UP diesels. ...Roy
N-Scale Union Pacific Evanston Subdivision I was really happy to see this video that you made so I could see your thoughts on the locomotive as I was thinking of purchasing the same locomotive just in CSX Leverage even though most of the stuff on my layout will be Union Pacific equipment all we have around here is CSX and Northfolk Southern because I'm in Florida and this is a land of CSX. Railfans nickname this CSX country.
Thank you for sharing your layout information with us. The loco looks great.
Very nice layout Roy thanks for sharing
Thanks, Dennis. I appreciate your comment. ...Roy
Loved seeing the Rio Grande car it was pulling :)
great little toy Roy looks great on your layout
hi Roy... awesome loco... too bad about the issues with the rear coupler... to be honest i like the start up with the ESU sounds more prototypical as to what a prototype GE sounds like.. too bad BNSF didn't have the 6000's.... any how congrates on your new toy... vinny
Thanks, Vinny. I can change the CV's to turn out that bright cab light, and I can lower the sound volume. But I'm exasperated by that rear coupler. I've got to check it out with my Micro-Trains coupler gauge. I never had a problem with an MT coupler before. By the way, I agree with you on the ESU sounds. ...Roy
Nice , let us know if you do something to the harsh cab light .
Nice looking loco Roy but those cab lights are ridiculously bright. It might be just me but at 2.13 the cab numbers don't look very crisp. Cheers, Bob
Yes, indeed, Bob, those cab lights are downright blinding. I'm going to change the CV to shut off the cab light. None of my other diesels have cab lights, and almost all of them are Katos. I'm also going to adjust the CV to reduce the sound volume, which is now painfully loud. Most importantly, though, I'll have to do the Micro-Trains coupler test and do something about that problematical rear coupler. ...Roly
You could cover the cab light with some kind of paste, paint, or even sharpie if you want to dampen the light
Def run with cab light off. Easy way to modernize it would be Smokebox Graphics Stripes and some white paint on the handrails. Looks like a decent runner for your coal trains.
Thanks, Mike. I have found that it's very easy to turn off the cab light permanently by setting CV 208 to "0." The default setting that comes with the AC6000 is "3", so the cab light shuts off at speed step 3 until you change the CV value. None of my other diesels have cab lights. Right now, I've got a bunch of diesels that need to be "modernized" with yellow stripes. I always like to run my diesels in multiple-unit consists, so eventually I will pick one of my diesels, speed match it to run well with the AC6000, and run them together. ...Roy
Hi Roy, I may be wrong but I think UP ditch light's as do BNSF don't flash when the horn blows. It may be able to turn of.
You may be right, Dennis. I don't really know. I will have to research this, and then I will have to adjust the CV's for ditch lights. ...Roy
It seems like I've seen this landscape before and what comes to mind is Rock Springs Wy. Yes or no? I do like your scenery!
That's not surprising, Ted. I'm modeling a portion of the Union Pacific Evanston Subdivision between Green River WY and Echo UT, and I'm certainly trying to "capture the feel" of that area. So it's no surprise that Rock Springs comes to mind. Thanks for watching. ...Roy Here's a short description of my layout:ruclips.net/video/ZHzrKeTJUFw/видео.html
Roy BLI makes great locos, I don't have experience of these unit in N scale but in HO it's Beauty for sure
Some guys have complained about problems with this loco, but so far, mine's running very well, Peter. I especially like the sound. ...Roy
Hey Roy, Nice blockhead you got! It looks to me like the coupler is not sprung in the right manner-maybe bad spring. I guess i"m hoping its a small problem that you can fix. Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks, Ralph. I'm going to either replace the rear coupler with a new MTL 1015 or perhaps both couplers with 1016s. I trust that will fix the problem. I certainly need a functioning rear coupler on this loco. ...Roy
well the start up on the Kato, well it a rough start, so to me sounds better. but this is of your new AC6000. does N scale have the function key to release the rear coupler? maybe thats it. looks to pull ok to me. don't need to many more cars than that
nice new unit. and thanks for sharing
Thanks, Sparky. It's a pleasure, as always. I agree. I like the sound on the Kato unit better, too. And I'm certainly not worried about the Kato unit dying on me at any moment the way I am about the BLI unit. To be honest, I've never heard of a function key to release a coupler in N-scale. I don't think there is such a thing in N-scale, but I'll have to investigate. The first thing I have to do, though, is a coupler test using my Micro-Trains coupler gauge. Hopefully, I'll have a chance to do that this afternoon. ...Roy
good review Roy. you were spot on about the loco. you sound like your really like it waiting on one to come out in n scale i know is a bit of a pill sometimes. BWL needs to do some work on all their units not just ac6000 series. my friend bought a set of centipedes and well lets just say they didn't run very well at all and if you are hearing of a lot of DOA coming up on reviews for the amount of money we spend on these units they should be making it right with the customers. hope all works out for you with it. it is a great looking unit love the detail. too bad about the pulling power though. that is what i like about these big road units.
Thanks, James. It's a beautiful looking loco, but unfortunately it has some issues. Too many people have had serious problems with it, such as it being DOA. My most serious issue (so far) is that non-functioning rear coupler, but I can replace that easily enough. It's a shame that BLI has had so many problems with this unit. Originally, I was planning to buy a second unit, but now I'm going to wait. ...Roy
smart move roy bet they get those problems figured out soon so you can get the sister unit you want.
I've never owned a BLI locomotive in either HO nor N scale before. When I switched to N scale almost a year ago due to the lack of space, My first N was the AC6000. (GE road name) and because I purchased it online, I had to wait for it to come in the mail. Once I received it, on the test track it went. Right out of the box it ran as expected but I didn't care much for the "echo" of the horn nor do I care for the extreme bright light inside the cab of the loco... I can't understand for the life of me. why BLI decided to put such a blinding white light inside the cab. just a bit too bright for my liking!! Still not sure how to dim that light to something less brilliant.
I also found that I ended up having to do a Hardware reset to the decoder. Not as easy as it seems. The ditch lights flashed irregularity and the crew chat "Chattered" when not requested.
Not a brand I would purchase as a loco again.
Congrats..Roy on the new unit. It looks great and seems to be working fine. I do have a question..I had asked this once before but, I never got an answer. You mentioned that your helix is a 2% grade.. what is the radius? Thank you.. Tom
Thanks, Tom. Thanks for asking about the radius a second time. I apologize if I missed it the first time. The radius of track on that helix is based on the Kato super-elevated double-track I used there (No 20-181). The radius of the outer track is 16 and 3/8 inches, and the radius of the inner track is 15 inches. I uploaded a video about my helixes back in January 2016. This video describes how I built my two helixes, the difference between them, and the track I used in them. To watch it, just click here: ruclips.net/video/NYYcosEBTNc/видео.html.
...Roy
Roy, thank you for the reply. I went back and watched that helix video again..I even commented at that time..I just don't remember it. I am amazed that your trains run excellent up and down the helix..and from everything I read.. you need 20" or larger. You proved you don't. Your engines negotiate the helix just fine and you are able to pull a fair amount of coal porters. Thank you again for the info. Tom
Neat! It is always good to get new toys.
Hey Roy, another fine video. Did you have a chance to see the recent solar eclipse? If so I hope you saved the safety glasses for your crew. Looks like they'll need them when the cab lights are on. Or maybe a welder's mask will do. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Collin. No, I missed the eclipse. I don't think it was visible down here in Panama. But you're right about the safety glasses for the crew (ha!). I'm going to change some of the CV's. For example, I've got to get rid of that blinding light. And I want to reduce the sound volume. Most of all, I've got to do something about that rear coupler, but I'm not sure what just yet. ...Roy
Your helix track curves are super-elevated? I was of the mind that super elevated track curves on a model layout, was just cosmetic. But does it actually help keep cars on the track curves?
Yes, Jonnken, the helix curves are super-elevated in my "eastern" helix (seen in the video). But they are not super-elevated in my "western" helix. I'm not sure, but I think that super-elevation is purely cosmetic on a model layout. I used super-elevated curves on my "eastern" helix because Kato double-tracked curves are super-elevated, and my mainline (which goes through the helix) is double-tracked. So it was easier to use the double track in the helix. Somewhere, I remember reading that it's not a good idea to use super-elevated curves in a helix, but I don't remember why. In any case, I used single track side-by-side in my "western" helix (which is much more accessible than the "eastern" helix), but otherwise I haven't noticed any real difference in how the trains run in the two helixes. I describe my two helixes in a video I uploaded way back in January 2016 here: ruclips.net/video/NYYcosEBTNc/видео.html.
...Roy
I own 2 and run very well together also the second horn is awesome!!
Hi Roy, I think I'd be a bit disappointed with AC6000, those gaps around the front windscreen are a absolute disaster, to me the focal point of any locomotive is that front view and those gaps just kill it. hope they re work the model at some stage and improve the rest of is pretty good, except the cab light also
Cheers
Thanks so much for your comment. The AC6000 definitely has some issues and problems, especially when compared to my Katos. That non-functioning rear coupler is especially irritating to me. As for the cab light, I turned it off altogether by setting CV208 to 0, since there is no way to simply dim it. Better to turn it off than to be blinded by it. ...Roy
Hi Roy, I heard from my friend he said the Broadway n scale AC6000 with dcc and sound locomotive always have the overheat problem and It will burnout very easy. Do you have the same problem? Which DCC controller you are using? Thanks. Tam
No problems so far, although I know that many others have had problems with this unit. I did turn off that very bright cab light. I use NCE DCC and control my layout with an NCE PowerCab. ...Roy
Thanks
HK Tam also, warning if you run this locomotive on DC you may blow up the decoder it depends upon the unit, and unlike any other normal decoder Broadway Limited decoders have a transmitter on them so you can connect to the Paragon sound system by radio. so you have to get a Broadway limited decoder or you can just completely switch the locomotive to any other decoder manufacturer.
Like and enjoy your videos Roy. I am not An N scale person. But you look like you have a lot of fun with your trains. Thanks for some inspiration.
Roy, nice video. I have the same number and it works decent. My first one arrived DOA (7541) Luckily the store replaced it with the 7512. Not the best puller but does a decent job. I've noticed with the Lenz decoder some issues, ie. no response to throttle, or slow response to adjustments, but let's hope they don't affect you. In terms of your coupler issues, not very pleased with but they work, seem like bli is trying to copy scale trains. Either way Keep up the great videos!!! Chris
Thanks, Chris. I'm glad your second one turned out better. I was thinking about also buying 7541, but I've decided to wait a while to see whether 7512 continues to run. I've already turned off the cab light, which is too bright, and turning down the sound should be easy. But I guess I'm going to have to replace that rear coupler, which is a serious issue. Hopefully, that won't be too hard to do. ...Roy
Thanks, Chris. I'm glad the store replaced your 7541. It's unfortunate that so many people have had the same kind of DOA experience that you had. Mine continues to run okay, but I will have to replace that rear coupler. That's really a critical issue that I've never had with any previous purchases. There doesn't seem to be a CV option for dimming the cab light, so I've turned it off altogether but setting CV 208 to 0. ...Roy
Hate to say this but that Kato sounds much better than the BLI.
I agree, Frank. ...Roy
I took my BLI sound decoder out and installed a Loksound decoder. My AC 60 sounds much better with Loksound decoder installed.
Congrats Roy! You got the BLI AC6000 that I suggested. Are you planning to buy BLI's Rolling Thunder subwoofer when it becomes available on the market (and, hence, at MB Klein)? Regarding your coupler problem, do you have the handy little tool made by Micro-Trains--its N scale coupler height gauge--to measure if BLI installed the coupler at the correct height? If the coupler height is off, that could be causing your problems. Here's a link to that Micro-Trains tool at MB Klein (which currently has 40 in stock): www.modeltrainstuff.com/Micro-trains-N-1055-Coupler-Height-Gauge-p/mtl-98800031.htm
-from Tom Pilling
Thanks, Tom. No, I don't think I'm going to buy the subwoofer, at least not until I feel more confident about it. Then we'll see. I just hope it's not too big and too heavy to come to come to me in the mail here in Panama. Yes, I do have a Micro-Trains coupler gauge, and it's laying right here on the front of my layout. I've got to do the coupler "test" to see what I can find out. I've never had a problem with a Micro-Trains coupler before. ...Roy
Roy, about the overly bright cab light, is there a CV to dim them without turning them off? I'm wondering if the BLI manual you received with your loco says anything about such CV settings.
-from Tom Pilling
No, it doesn't appear that the light can be dimmed, Tom. You can adjust the speed at which the cab light turns off or stays on permanently, using CV 208. The factory setting is 3, which means the cab light turns off at speed step 3. So you can turn the cab light completely off by setting CV 208 to "0" but I can't find any way to just dim it, which is what I really would like to do. ...Roy
micro trains couplers have become problemsome on many of their newest cars. Sad as they were top of the line for so long. The thunder would make your loco sound much better.
Thanks for your comment, Mark. I appreciate it. I’m going to replace that 1015 rear coupler on the AC6000 with a new one to see if that solves the problem. Or I may end up replacing both couplers with 1016’s. I’m not sure which yet. Either way, I definitely need a functioning coupler on the rear of the unit. ...Roy
1016's might help. I have used the 1015's preassembled on my kato locos and they work usually good ..but there's always room for improvement.
can you show your control system?
Yes, I can. I think the best time to do that would be in a video on how I'm wiring my layout. I use an NCE PowerCab. ...Roy
cool
Hi Roy! Did you see that TSG Multimedia gave you a photo credit in one of their recent RUclips videos for what a model train cab light should NOT look like.
The picture of your new BLI AC6000 in front of Green River depot on your layout appears from 7:46 to 8:00 (14 entire seconds) in TSG's video, which you can link to here: ruclips.net/video/0-kHNtW1P-Y/видео.html
Again, I am so sorry for ever having recommended that you buy this BLI AC6000.
-from Tom Pilling
Thank you for bringing this to my attention, Tom. I didn't see it previously. I must tell you that I did give TSG Multimedia permission to use that photo in advance, but I now regret that I did so, because I feel they used it in a manner that is irrelevant to their video about an HO-scale diesel. Also, I feel they used in a manner that is in poor taste. It's an unwritten "law" in model railroading that you never ever make fun of someone else's layout or equipment. That, essentially, is what I said in a comment I posted on their video. Please don't regret having recommended the AC6000 to me. I researched it thoroughly on the Internet before buying it. It continues to run perfectly, and I love the sound. It really only has two issues, both of which are easily corrected: First, the bright cab light, which I've turned off by adjusting the appropriate CV. And second, the non-functioning rear coupler, which I can replace. In other words, I am quite happy with it. Thanks again for bringing the TSG Multimedia video to my attention. ...Roy
Oh Roy, I didn't bring this TSG Multimedia video snippet to your attention because I thought it was done in poor taste. Quite the contrary, I thought it was in good taste. It relates to HO Scale modeling (and to all scales, for that matter), insofar as achieving a desirable prototypical lighting standard for a model diesel cab. That's how I took it.
I didn't find TSG's point illustrated with your photo to be offensive. They merely intended it as a criticism to those model train manufacturers that have such lax quality control standards as to allow a diesel model with something so unprototypical as an excessively bright cab light to be sold at such a high price.
TSG certainly didn't intend to deride you personally as a N scale modeler. I saw it as a "Thumbs Up" to your supurb modeling abilities, but that you unfortunately received a product (as so many of us have these days) that was not properly vetted and improved by thorough quality control practices of the manufacturer. Dan and Mike at TSG Multimedia are really some great guys who do a great service to our hobby!
-from Tom Pilling
I’m scared now I just ordered one I hope it’s not doa
Mine keep stallling and restart ing . I don't like it!👎
It seems like a lot of people have had problems with this model, Jay. That's really unfortunate. ...Roy