I have an '85 suburban with it's original 6.2, this oilburner has had a banks turbo on it half it's life...irony is that this beast starts better cold than warm, but other than that runs like a dream.
b4 attempting any of this make damed sure that the surrounding area is as clean as possible. saw chunks of dirt left in the bowl and thats not going to fly once even a small piece hits an injector. with fuel feed change timing also has to be reset. otherwise there will be a power drop instead of a gain.
If your pump is newer it should have an irregular polygon(home plate) shaped timing mark cover. Remove this cover and rotate the engine until the allen head screw appears. Carefully turn this screw clockwise for more juice or counter clockwise for economy. Just a 1/2 turn of the screw will allow it to deliver more fuel than your idi can burn unless you have a turbo.
We always turned it up 1/4turn for the 6.2 diesels with a turbo and no more than 1/8th with non turbo. At any rate, the engine has to be re-timed after the screw is turned. Oh and on one of our 6.2's it didnt run bad at all being 1/4turned with the turbo off, but that was only temporary.
You can get even more power if you completely remove the limiter. You can get about 300 Hp out of a 4911 pump with Turbo. But you have to take the distributor head out of the pump, so it's more work.
Hello, I have been having an issue on my 6.2 where I start it up and it idles ok until I tap thr throttle and it revs up like an extra 500 rpm I first thought this was my throttle cable because it seemed like the cable was sticking. What else could cause this? Faulty high idle solenoid??
No need to take the top cover off. There is a three screw cover on the side which gives access to the screw. This screw affixes the plunger shoe leaf spring. Tightening it forces the spring flatter, this increases maximum plunger stroke. At other throttle positions, the metering valve controls how much stroke the plungers make.
I would like to go back and look, but the trucks long gone. But it sounds like you know a bit more then us, so future video viewers, take note of this and let us know!
Hi there:) I have a Chevrolet Blazer 6.2l 1986. So here is my problem: When i start the engine,it runs normally for half a minute ,and then the engine turns off,and you can’t start the car for about 15 mins.The cycle is repeating over and over . Could it be some problem related with this one(depicted in your video)? Cheers, Robert
I have an gm8 turbo on my 6.2 and have been done like this video. I have turned 1/2 (from 12 to 6) and still don't get any smoke and just about 5psi of boost. Anny suggestions?
This product heathdiesel.com/performance/turbo-master-gm96-boost-control.html (call to verify fit). An EGT gauge, and then decide if you need more fuel.
@@markhinkle455 sounds like his pump is wore out.. should be making about 8 psi of boost without turning it up.. I would not go higher than 20 psi of boost.. be sure, fuel filters are clean and lift pump is working properly.. if all that is good, then the pump is shot..
Had to watch this a few times. Maybe this was a first time video. Guy holding camera needs to chill out and hold it still. Normally wouldn't comment on someone doing something nice and sharing but criminy! Anyway, will do this to an 83 gmc diesel I have and share results unless someone on this board talks me out of it. Only 1/8 turn. But a boost in power would be nice. The truck itself runs like a gem. Sounds brand new still. Amazing truck! At end of video, started truck but you didn't run truck BEFORE adjustment so nothing to compare. Also NO conclusion on video. Results?
Yup never existed and from what I can see in the vid that's 81-87 fenders and cowl. I built a 77 k10 with a 6.2 since GM never did got a few vids on it.
@@SchnelleKat you are completely wrong. 1. Its not 73-80, its 73-88 for the trucks, and 73-91 for the suburbans and k5 blazers and the c/k 30 duallies 2. Thlse trucks did come stock with diesels. Many of then had the 6.2 Detroit diesel, from the factory.
@@daltonandrew168 LOL Okay then Smartass Besides it's not Detroit diesel only Early Red Block 6.2s (1980 - 82) Where made the Detroit Diesels Foundry plant in Bay City, Mi... after that, they went to the Flint Plant They are GM Diesels. Go ask a Detroit guy. Besides I'm not stupid. 73-80, Convertible tops (74-75 Only) 76-78, 77-80, 81-82, 83-85 and 86-87, 88-91 (Only for K5, 3+3 & Burbs) No trucks!!!! They stopped in 87 Idiot.
@@SchnelleKat they did make trucks after 87. The 1 tons. Up until 91. Look it up. And stop with all the bs about the plants. Naming plants doesn't add anything to this, thats just adding in random Info to make yourself look smart. And anither thing, the early 6.2s were not the only Detroit diesels. The 6.5s used up until 2000 were also detriots, then they completely swapped to the lb7 duramax.
Even towing the boat, never run the egt over 900...specs say the engine can handle 1100 before things start going bad...but i see no reason to chance it if all i have to do is drop out of OD or back off the pedal! Not like the fish are gonna go anywhere!
@@wyattfrey6079 you apparently don't have much experience with these NA engines. This isn't a Duramax or a powerjoke. This is a 130hp non performance indirect injection diesel. They can puff some smoke under heavy throttle for the life of the engine and see NO ill effects. There is no concern about melting exhaust valves or turbos with this engine. Stick to What you know feller and it ain't diesel.
LOL, trying to turn up a 6.2, yeah that will kill the head gasket and probably the heads too. GM and their early diesels couldn't take punishment.... Yeah you are going to give your engine a nasty ether addiction.... Probably should have ethered the exhaust too. Ring gear is awesome-o Yeah just rev it good just after starting, yeah that 6.2 prob didn't make it far with you guys, they typically don't for people that try to take care if them.
Cheer up butter cup, 95% of our videos are made with the intent of vechile destruction. And the other 5% no one really knows what the fu*k we made them for.
Patrick, how many 6.2 diesels have you actually seen f*cked up like you describe? I've been driving them for 10 years...old wore POS, a decent one, and a rebuilt one...and frankly, you and lots of guys with no idea WTF they are talking about seem to throw a ton of shit around about these motors....mostly unfounded. Try not to be a troll.
@@danielkingery2894 Every 6.2/6.5 I've personally seen was worthless and gutless even at it's best. "frankly, you and lots of guys with no idea WTF they are talking about" Easy to make claims without proof, but troll away if you need bud. But hey man if they get you off drive em, don't shop for what I'm looking for. I've thrown 2 in the scrap myself both 6.5s, I won't buy them unless it's at scrap value.
It’s been four years now since I turned up my injection pump 3/8 of a turn truck now has 875,000 on the clock and still runs perfect. No head gasket issues or anything not sure what you’re talking about.
Rob, have you ever started a diesel motor in your life? Ever started an automotive diesel after a fuel filter change? 1.The air in the system has to be purged. 2. It had been cranked for long enough to have oil pressure built up already. 3. They didn't rev it that high.
@@danielkingery2894 Let's see. Im 53 years old, been driving for about 41 years or so. Yes i HAVE started an engine before. I currently have 3 diesels. I just don't rev em up with no load. I know it won't blow up, i realize you need to purge air out of the system once the fuel system's been opened but you can do that by running it just a bit above idle. You can rev the dogshit outta YOUR engines, i really dont care if you do, by all means feel free to hold it to the floor until the governor kicks in.
Not true ether isn't wise to be used on an engine with glow plug or an intake grid but otherwise has no negative effects. Many over the road diesels use ether injection as a cold start assist system with no negative effects for millions of miles.
@@hudsonhawk0016 apparently you have no knowledge of OTR diesels. My guess is your diesel knowledge is limited to a shit box 7.3 that barely runs and you think you know everything about diesels now. Can show you many high mileage 3406 cats with ether injection. Some of them have well over a million miles.
A "COAL SPITTING BEAST" Really is that our goal? These little tune up tips need to be thought through pretty well before you do this to either a 6.2 or a 6.5 both of these engines are what you could call a bit "BRITTLE" or in other words very easily seriously messed up of destroyed with these simple tuning tips! You had better have an EGT onboard whenever your messing with fuel and you better know what the readings actually mean, especially the part where the gauge is screaming at you to get off the throttle NOW, destruction is seconds away!
leave the f---g thing alone , how's that for an idea ? treat these motors right and they'll go well into the 300 thousand mile range .. this motor is on par with the power from diesels back in the day ( ford and cummins ) . If you need 1000 ft lbs go buy a $90,000 new truck .. Mines in a 80 dually 4 spd and its geared right and putts around beautifully at 22 miles a gallon thank you ...
some nut job turned it up way to high without telling me thinking that it would be neat . But that is a really terrible idea. Dont ever do that. Thats a big no, no !!!!!!!! Now it needs to be turned down.
That's not a fuel adjustment screw. That's the wire vent, and it has nothing to do with the adjustment of the metering valve. These DB2 pumps all have set fuel values built into them, and the metering valve is always full open at full throttle. There's really no such thing as "turning up" the fuel in these pumps. A person can play around with the min/max governor spring assembly to fatten up the metering valve from idle to 3/4 throttle, but the pump will always run at it's fixed (factory) fuel value at WOT. This is because the high pressure pump and the metering valve is already running at its full capacity (by design) at WOT, and there's no way to increase the stroke (capacity) of this pump or volume of the metering valve in stock form. If you're a broke kid who is just wanting to roll coal on the cheap, just find a way to restrict the air coming into the intake manifold and leave the pump alone because there's no magic screw inside, just pain and misery.
@@133dave133 maybe Gale Banks doesn't know shit about Vintage Diesel Speed Tuning??? Maybe you dont understand Vintage Diesel Speed Tuning? Maybe the adjustment pushes the fuel delivery amount farther up the governor's operating range? Maybe the governor starts cutting fuel way before the max engine RPM and this adjustment offsets that early decline in HP??
@daniel kingery, you have to know how a DB2 pump works to realize that there is no way to "turn up" the pump. Timing, is the key. The people that claim to "turn up" is type of pump, are actually just knocking the pump out of calibration. A person could play around with the governor basket weights, or min-max governor, but again, it would be the matter of just knocking the pump out of calibration.
@@133dave133 interesting...and so the power increase and the increased amount of black smoke isn't actually more fuel, but some figment of my imagination? Again...I'd pay a visit to a Gale Banks video or two...I don't really care what you've read or what you've been told...the fact is...improvement is easy to witness. So yes....perhaps the Stanadyne manual is wrong...or perhaps you've misinterpreted what you read.
Why? Without a turbo, all it does is smoke like a bitch....it gives you no more power, and you actually waste fuel, as the black smoke will be unburnt fuel.. also, there is a plate on the side of the pump, under the idle solenoid, you can remove and turn the fuel up.. and clockwise turns it up.. go ahead, those junkers are barely usable when new, it will fry it, if you turn it up.. the 6.5 can be turned up...
Maddy Orlesky hahaha and you call a 6.2 a power house? And no the 6.2 and 6.5 engines blow a fat one you can dog a 6.9 7.3 idi or a 7.3 stroke and they'll still out live a 6.2 or 6.5 they're junk end of story.
Maddy Orlesky I'm not king shit bud I'm just smart and I know how to look at the facts. How many 6.2s and 6.5s are still on the road compared to the 6.9 and 7.3? Much less the 7.3 powerstroke. Face it most of them are in the junk yard because they couldn't even hang in there as long as a gasser would.
I have an '85 suburban with it's original 6.2, this oilburner has had a banks turbo on it half it's life...irony is that this beast starts better cold than warm, but other than that runs like a dream.
Nice
b4 attempting any of this make damed sure that the surrounding area is as clean as possible. saw chunks of dirt left in the bowl and thats not going to fly once even a small piece hits an injector. with fuel feed change timing also has to be reset. otherwise there will be a power drop instead of a gain.
If your pump is newer it should have an irregular polygon(home plate) shaped timing mark cover.
Remove this cover and rotate the engine until the allen head screw appears.
Carefully turn this screw clockwise for more juice or counter clockwise for economy.
Just a 1/2 turn of the screw will allow it to deliver more fuel than your idi can burn unless you have a turbo.
ether then rev a cold diesel... real smart.
We always turned it up 1/4turn for the 6.2 diesels with a turbo and no more than 1/8th with non turbo. At any rate, the engine has to be re-timed after the screw is turned. Oh and on one of our 6.2's it didnt run bad at all being 1/4turned with the turbo off, but that was only temporary.
Qwantuz HP? ?
You can get even more power if you completely remove the limiter.
You can get about 300 Hp out of a 4911 pump with Turbo.
But you have to take the distributor head out of the pump, so it's more work.
Hello, I have been having an issue on my 6.2 where I start it up and it idles ok until I tap thr throttle and it revs up like an extra 500 rpm I first thought this was my throttle cable because it seemed like the cable was sticking. What else could cause this? Faulty high idle solenoid??
No need to take the top cover off. There is a three screw cover on the side which gives access to the screw. This screw affixes the plunger shoe leaf spring. Tightening it forces the spring flatter, this increases maximum plunger stroke. At other throttle positions, the metering valve controls how much stroke the plungers make.
I would like to go back and look, but the trucks long gone. But it sounds like you know a bit more then us, so future video viewers, take note of this and let us know!
Can you access this side screw with the pump installed?
Definitely not a 72. And someone was chanting to spray ether down the engine towards the end to start it. Bad idea.
Dude which way fid u turn the screw
Is there a way to find out if your adjustment screw has been turned up yet?
Juan Soto look in the rearview when you're hard on the throttle and you'll find out pretty quick
Hi there:)
I have a Chevrolet Blazer 6.2l 1986.
So here is my problem:
When i start the engine,it runs normally for half a minute ,and then the engine turns off,and you can’t start the car for about 15 mins.The cycle is repeating over and over .
Could it be some problem related with this one(depicted in your video)?
Cheers,
Robert
I have an gm8 turbo on my 6.2 and have been done like this video.
I have turned 1/2 (from 12 to 6) and still don't get any smoke and just about 5psi of boost.
Anny suggestions?
This product heathdiesel.com/performance/turbo-master-gm96-boost-control.html (call to verify fit). An EGT gauge, and then decide if you need more fuel.
@@markhinkle455 sounds like his pump is wore out.. should be making about 8 psi of boost without turning it up.. I would not go higher than 20 psi of boost.. be sure, fuel filters are clean and lift pump is working properly.. if all that is good, then the pump is shot..
Pump is shot
I need help ....I have not
done this but I have put a fuel filter and pump on my truck and it still won't stay running please help
Richard Clark Check your timing man has to be retimed after any pump change or replacement
@@blakehooten8901 he is sucking air
The 72 never had a 6.2. However the 6.2 was built to drop into any small block gas engine’s Motor mounts. So it very well could be done.
We may have gotten years mixed up or it was a replacement motor. Bought the truck from a farmer. Its long gone now though, sadly.
Pretty obvious he meant 82
I touched my screw and my trucks running awfull and knocking I moved it back and still haveing issues any idea?
If you aren't careful in there, you can knock other things out of alignment and really mess things up.
Had to watch this a few times. Maybe this was a first time video. Guy holding camera needs to chill out and hold it still. Normally wouldn't comment on someone doing something nice and sharing but criminy! Anyway, will do this to an 83 gmc diesel I have and share results unless someone on this board talks me out of it. Only 1/8 turn. But a boost in power would be nice. The truck itself runs like a gem. Sounds brand new still. Amazing truck!
At end of video, started truck but you didn't run truck BEFORE adjustment so nothing to compare. Also NO conclusion on video. Results?
Did you ever do anything to it?
I own an 83 jimmy 6.2 .I would like to add some power to it.
it think he means an 82 , 82 was the first year for the 6.2
Noticeable power increase?
Yes
"1972 Chev Scottsdale 6.2 diesel"? I don't think so, it doesn't exist unless you created one!
Yup never existed and from what I can see in the vid that's 81-87 fenders and cowl.
I built a 77 k10 with a 6.2 since GM never did got a few vids on it.
True, Only Diesel that existed in the 73-80 trucks where the Goodwrench/Olds 5.7 and 4.3 Diesels which are nearly impossible to find parts for
@@SchnelleKat you are completely wrong.
1. Its not 73-80, its 73-88 for the trucks, and 73-91 for the suburbans and k5 blazers and the c/k 30 duallies
2. Thlse trucks did come stock with diesels. Many of then had the 6.2 Detroit diesel, from the factory.
@@daltonandrew168 LOL Okay then Smartass Besides it's not Detroit diesel only Early Red Block 6.2s (1980 - 82) Where made the Detroit Diesels Foundry plant in Bay City, Mi... after that, they went to the Flint Plant They are GM Diesels. Go ask a Detroit guy.
Besides I'm not stupid. 73-80, Convertible tops (74-75 Only) 76-78, 77-80, 81-82, 83-85 and 86-87, 88-91 (Only for K5, 3+3 & Burbs) No trucks!!!! They stopped in 87 Idiot.
@@SchnelleKat they did make trucks after 87. The 1 tons. Up until 91. Look it up. And stop with all the bs about the plants. Naming plants doesn't add anything to this, thats just adding in random Info to make yourself look smart. And anither thing, the early 6.2s were not the only Detroit diesels. The 6.5s used up until 2000 were also detriots, then they completely swapped to the lb7 duramax.
Even towing the boat, never run the egt over 900...specs say the engine can handle 1100 before things start going bad...but i see no reason to chance it if all i have to do is drop out of OD or back off the pedal! Not like the fish are gonna go anywhere!
Any diesel engine and turbo can handle 1100 degrees for short durations.. anything above 1200 is turbo frying bad..
CLOCK Wise or COUNTER (CCW)...so which way is it? Inquiring minds wanna know.LOL!
Videos a violation
Alright i watch a few of these videos and no one tells you which way you need to turn the dam screw in the pump!
clockwise
Did you turn it clockwise or counter clockwise? Also did anything happen to it since you turned it 1/4?
Scott Levandowski ...yea, they just left us hanging....
Just a piss poor video, no info wrong info. I bet EPA loves him
I tried this and my idle speed skyrocketed. Is that normal?
Yes
You won't "melt down" the engine on a non-turbo. It will just smoke more at full throttle. I.e. waste fuel.
Tf it wont, whenever smokes coming out the exhaust your egts are raised and these dont like high egts
@@wyattfrey6079 you apparently don't have much experience with these NA engines. This isn't a Duramax or a powerjoke. This is a 130hp non performance indirect injection diesel. They can puff some smoke under heavy throttle for the life of the engine and see NO ill effects. There is no concern about melting exhaust valves or turbos with this engine. Stick to What you know feller and it ain't diesel.
Revving a cold diesel like that. Amateurs.
LOL, trying to turn up a 6.2, yeah that will kill the head gasket and probably the heads too. GM and their early diesels couldn't take punishment....
Yeah you are going to give your engine a nasty ether addiction....
Probably should have ethered the exhaust too.
Ring gear is awesome-o
Yeah just rev it good just after starting, yeah that 6.2 prob didn't make it far with you guys, they typically don't for people that try to take care if them.
Cheer up butter cup, 95% of our videos are made with the intent of vechile destruction. And the other 5% no one really knows what the fu*k we made them for.
Ford never made 7,3. International Harvester did
Patrick, how many 6.2 diesels have you actually seen f*cked up like you describe? I've been driving them for 10 years...old wore POS, a decent one, and a rebuilt one...and frankly, you and lots of guys with no idea WTF they are talking about seem to throw a ton of shit around about these motors....mostly unfounded.
Try not to be a troll.
@@danielkingery2894 Every 6.2/6.5 I've personally seen was worthless and gutless even at it's best.
"frankly, you and lots of guys with no idea WTF they are talking about" Easy to make claims without proof, but troll away if you need bud.
But hey man if they get you off drive em, don't shop for what I'm looking for. I've thrown 2 in the scrap myself both 6.5s, I won't buy them unless it's at scrap value.
It’s been four years now since I turned up my injection pump 3/8 of a turn truck now has 875,000 on the clock and still runs perfect. No head gasket issues or anything not sure what you’re talking about.
Never could understand why people have the need to rev the shit out of an engine right after start up.
Enum Rob i kicked that habit its bad for the motor
Rob, have you ever started a diesel motor in your life? Ever started an automotive diesel after a fuel filter change?
1.The air in the system has to be purged.
2. It had been cranked for long enough to have oil pressure built up already.
3. They didn't rev it that high.
@@danielkingery2894 Let's see. Im 53 years old, been driving for about 41 years or so. Yes i HAVE started an engine before. I currently have 3 diesels. I just don't rev em up with no load. I know it won't blow up, i realize you need to purge air out of the system once the fuel system's been opened but you can do that by running it just a bit above idle. You can rev the dogshit outta YOUR engines, i really dont care if you do, by all means feel free to hold it to the floor until the governor kicks in.
the first 6.2s came out in 82
Did it help with power or fuel economy? Im thinking about doing it to my 5.7
you all need to turn the screws in your heads a little bit tighter, keep yur brains from moving around to much
How come I can’t find a mechanic to do this? Literally have asked them and they have no idea what I mean
why don't you do it yourself
@@petteri.peraaho because I would rather hire a professional..why don't you do your own dental work?
@@PracticalTacticalFedeli because I am not a dentist
@@petteri.peraaho and im not a professional mechanic. So you get it then.
@@PracticalTacticalFedeli a professional probably won’t do this because they don’t want to melt your motor that’s why you should do it
is this bad on the engine I have a 93 Silverado I want to do this on to increase the amount of coal to roal
Its fine as long as you dont turn it too far
clockwise
so did it run any better
Never use either on these! It will just get harder and harder to start until no more
Not true ether isn't wise to be used on an engine with glow plug or an intake grid but otherwise has no negative effects. Many over the road diesels use ether injection as a cold start assist system with no negative effects for millions of miles.
@@86dieselman You have no idea what you are talking about.
@@hudsonhawk0016 apparently you have no knowledge of OTR diesels. My guess is your diesel knowledge is limited to a shit box 7.3 that barely runs and you think you know everything about diesels now. Can show you many high mileage 3406 cats with ether injection. Some of them have well over a million miles.
NOT a 72. 6.2 diesel didn't come out until 1982.
i have a 1982 k10 first year 6.2 and first year 700r4. shes not stock and has a turbo. love that truck, seems almost like a prototype
Alex Off hey me too bud,
thats fuckin awesome, hows she run?
82 Diesel and 82 is still older thank these kids. They wouldn't know the difference between a 72 or and 82
You have to forgive the guy at the beginning. He's an idiot. It is an 82.
This makes a world of difference made my old girl into a coal spitting beast
Can you tell me any thing about doing this I havent done it yet but i am really considering it does it real coal
Don't use either, use silicone lubricant spray....
Or even better yet just fix your damn glow plugs..
A "COAL SPITTING BEAST" Really is that our goal? These little tune up tips need to be thought through pretty well before you do this to either a 6.2 or a 6.5 both of these engines are what you could call a bit "BRITTLE" or in other words very easily seriously messed up of destroyed with these simple tuning tips! You had better have an EGT onboard whenever your messing with fuel and you better know what the readings actually mean, especially the part where the gauge is screaming at you to get off the throttle NOW, destruction is seconds away!
cool motion sickness because of the shaky camera. LOL
leave the f---g thing alone , how's that for an idea ? treat these motors right and they'll go well into the 300 thousand mile range .. this motor is on par with the power from diesels back in the day ( ford and cummins ) . If you need 1000 ft lbs go buy a $90,000 new truck .. Mines in a 80 dually 4 spd and its geared right and putts around beautifully at 22 miles a gallon thank you ...
Sthu you boring f***
a quarter of a turn from where?
Picture a clock around the screw, visually mark half of the circle, then half of that.
Lol i just took the triangle plate off the bottum side lol. Way faster
82
some nut job turned it up way to high without telling me thinking that it would be neat . But that is a really terrible idea. Dont ever do that. Thats a big no, no !!!!!!!! Now it needs to be turned down.
That's not a fuel adjustment screw. That's the wire vent, and it has nothing to do with the adjustment of the metering valve. These DB2 pumps all have set fuel values built into them, and the metering valve is always full open at full throttle. There's really no such thing as "turning up" the fuel in these pumps. A person can play around with the min/max governor spring assembly to fatten up the metering valve from idle to 3/4 throttle, but the pump will always run at it's fixed (factory) fuel value at WOT. This is because the high pressure pump and the metering valve is already running at its full capacity (by design) at WOT, and there's no way to increase the stroke (capacity) of this pump or volume of the metering valve in stock form. If you're a broke kid who is just wanting to roll coal on the cheap, just find a way to restrict the air coming into the intake manifold and leave the pump alone because there's no magic screw inside, just pain and misery.
I'm sorry, but I have turned up hundreds of these pumps..
Really, just how did you go about doing that? Maybe Stanadyne shop manual is wrong? That's probably it.
@@133dave133 maybe Gale Banks doesn't know shit about Vintage Diesel Speed Tuning???
Maybe you dont understand Vintage Diesel Speed Tuning?
Maybe the adjustment pushes the fuel delivery amount farther up the governor's operating range? Maybe the governor starts cutting fuel way before the max engine RPM and this adjustment offsets that early decline in HP??
@daniel kingery, you have to know how a DB2 pump works to realize that there is no way to "turn up" the pump. Timing, is the key. The people that claim to "turn up" is type of pump, are actually just knocking the pump out of calibration. A person could play around with the governor basket weights, or min-max governor, but again, it would be the matter of just knocking the pump out of calibration.
@@133dave133 interesting...and so the power increase and the increased amount of black smoke isn't actually more fuel, but some figment of my imagination? Again...I'd pay a visit to a Gale Banks video or two...I don't really care what you've read or what you've been told...the fact is...improvement is easy to witness.
So yes....perhaps the Stanadyne manual is wrong...or perhaps you've misinterpreted what you read.
how to reduce the life span of your engine !!!!!!
Why? Without a turbo, all it does is smoke like a bitch....it gives you no more power, and you actually waste fuel, as the black smoke will be unburnt fuel.. also, there is a plate on the side of the pump, under the idle solenoid, you can remove and turn the fuel up.. and clockwise turns it up.. go ahead, those junkers are barely usable when new, it will fry it, if you turn it up.. the 6.5 can be turned up...
One of the shittiest diesel engines ever made right there.
and what diesel do you have you piece of shit. don't talk shit if you don't know shit
1994 f350 with the 7.3 idi turbo in it one aka one of the best most reliable diesels. It's certainly not the fastest but it's never let me down.
+Ben Denard oh wow! what a power house! treat a 6.2 or a 6.5 right and they will outlast just about anything
Maddy Orlesky hahaha and you call a 6.2 a power house? And no the 6.2 and 6.5 engines blow a fat one you can dog a 6.9 7.3 idi or a 7.3 stroke and they'll still out live a 6.2 or 6.5 they're junk end of story.
Maddy Orlesky I'm not king shit bud I'm just smart and I know how to look at the facts. How many 6.2s and 6.5s are still on the road compared to the 6.9 and 7.3? Much less the 7.3 powerstroke. Face it most of them are in the junk yard because they couldn't even hang in there as long as a gasser would.