thanks so much, i have been looking all over for my setup and couldnt find a deffinative one. your is exactly like mine and very well done, wish more vidieos were like that, pure info and no bs...thank you
Wonderful, I'm glad you found it helpful. I was also surprised at how hard it was to find information on the Dana 80 axle. It's not that uncommon, but for some reason there just isn't that much content floating around the Internet about it.
@@htatesil4192 If your races are being stubborn there are several measures you can take, depending on what the cause of the problem is. Hot and cold cycles cause metal to expand and contract, so sometimes a heat gun (or torch if you're comfortable) can get things to break loose. You can also hit it with a liberal application of penetrating oil and give it time to soak in (this is particularly effective if you've got rust issues). One other thing that makes a huge difference is using a beefy enough punch. If you're trying to hammer on a screwdriver with a plastic handle or a skinny little drift-punch, you're wasting a tremendous amount of energy instead of transferring it into breaking your races free. You want metal-on-metal contact on both ends, and the largest cross-section you can get. I used a thick-walled steel pipe and it worked great.
@@htatesil4192 There are several manufacturers of compatible bearings, but I used Timken. The four part numbers are JLM506849, JLM506810, 39590, and 39520. The reason there are four numbers is that there are two bearings in the assembly, each comprised of an outer race and a bearing assembly (the inner race and rolling elements). They are sold separately but should always be replaced together. Honestly if you're going to the trouble to tear this hub apart, I highly recommend you replace both bearings and both seals (seal numbers 10S32500T and 926163). All these parts are usually available on Amazon, eBay, Rock Auto, and your local auto parts store, so compare prices and buy them where they're cheapest.
It will be pretty evident when you get your hands on an axle nut in person. The nut is actually a multi-piece thing and the hex portion that you put a wrench on spins independently of the housing. There are internal detents that engage when it starts to get tight giving it a "notchy" feel as it clicks from one detent to the next. This allows you to accurately control preload by counting notches or clicks as the nut is turned under load.
thanks so much, i have been looking all over for my setup and couldnt find a deffinative one. your is exactly like mine and very well done, wish more vidieos were like that, pure info and no bs...thank you
Wonderful, I'm glad you found it helpful. I was also surprised at how hard it was to find information on the Dana 80 axle. It's not that uncommon, but for some reason there just isn't that much content floating around the Internet about it.
Wish I could find a decent video like this for the 2019 or equivalent model. Great video though!!
Sorry, I'm not smart enough to work on those fancy new trucks. Good luck on your search, though, and thank you for the kind words.
The simplest, most concise removal video Ive seen for the Ford D80. Getting ready to do this tomorrow. Thanks a ton!
Glad you found it helpful! Good luck on your wrenching tomorrow.
@@UncleMikesCustomThings give me more tips on getting the race out
@@htatesil4192 If your races are being stubborn there are several measures you can take, depending on what the cause of the problem is. Hot and cold cycles cause metal to expand and contract, so sometimes a heat gun (or torch if you're comfortable) can get things to break loose. You can also hit it with a liberal application of penetrating oil and give it time to soak in (this is particularly effective if you've got rust issues). One other thing that makes a huge difference is using a beefy enough punch. If you're trying to hammer on a screwdriver with a plastic handle or a skinny little drift-punch, you're wasting a tremendous amount of energy instead of transferring it into breaking your races free. You want metal-on-metal contact on both ends, and the largest cross-section you can get. I used a thick-walled steel pipe and it worked great.
@@UncleMikesCustomThings u got a link to the race
@@htatesil4192 There are several manufacturers of compatible bearings, but I used Timken. The four part numbers are JLM506849, JLM506810, 39590, and 39520. The reason there are four numbers is that there are two bearings in the assembly, each comprised of an outer race and a bearing assembly (the inner race and rolling elements). They are sold separately but should always be replaced together. Honestly if you're going to the trouble to tear this hub apart, I highly recommend you replace both bearings and both seals (seal numbers 10S32500T and 926163). All these parts are usually available on Amazon, eBay, Rock Auto, and your local auto parts store, so compare prices and buy them where they're cheapest.
Thanks for the video! I have the same truck and was having a hard time getting specs! I appreciate it!
Gotta love those flip flop mechanics
Yes indeed! I'm not going to turn away free help just for wearing inappropriate footwear.
Pro display =)
Did you have different part numbers for the nut on each side?
I reused the old nuts, but as I recall they were both right-handed threads, so should be the same part number.
What was the torque specs on the axle bolts(last one you did) thanks!
98 ft-lbs
truck is big enough to haul a small flattened car on!
It sure is! Any ideas how to get it loaded?
What do you mean by 5 notches exactly
It will be pretty evident when you get your hands on an axle nut in person. The nut is actually a multi-piece thing and the hex portion that you put a wrench on spins independently of the housing. There are internal detents that engage when it starts to get tight giving it a "notchy" feel as it clicks from one detent to the next. This allows you to accurately control preload by counting notches or clicks as the nut is turned under load.
Thank you, I have a 1999, hope this is close
U still around?
I am indeed. Even got a new truck video in the works chasing down a nasty little death wobble.