Merci pour le partage de la technique. Je comprends que la largeur est celle de la lame. Comment définir la profondeur de coupe et donc épaisseur restante en fonction de l’épaisseur d’origine de la planche/plaque ? (Je veux utiliser cette technique dans du MDF de 18mm pour un faire un rayon d’environ 50mm et avoir mais deux bouts de planches à 90 degrés).
Wow nice idea, I want to work on a project and thought of wood bending, I'm just starting into woodworking and don't have all the tools they usually have to do this, I have a circular saw and this is just perfect, will give it a try, thanks
Action ma passion bonjour :D technique simple mais efficace pour le travail du mdf! le plus compliqué dans une chaine de tuto est de trouver la manière la plus simple et accessible de réaliser du bon travail, la on peut dire que c'est réussi!
I've had this in my "saved" to do list for a year, BUT... I wanna' do it on plywood. Anyway, can anyone tell me... is the channel where the popsicle sticks go, done with a router or a thick circular saw blade? My saw doesn't have holes to screw it to a board, but I guess that's something a newbie can do? Whether I can do it or not, it's a brilliant jig and sooo much quicker than measuring off every cut as you go!
The initial channel was made with the same circular saw I used later on. th eposicle sticks just happened to have the right dimention, but any fitting other guide can be used
I know very little about wood working, but I am trying to learn. My question is why is this used fo cuttingr mdf only. Can't it cut 3/4 plywood as well?
Hate to be a nay-sayer, internet mandated, not my fault and all that... but is this any stronger than a thin piece of MDF? I'm not familiar with commercial flexible MDF or even its uses, but it seems it would be a lot faster to just make a thin MDF sheet with a router or maybe even a planer..?
Thanks for thinking along, you make a good point. The final part if not stronger than a thin piece of MDF, it is only as strong as its thinnest part. All the methods you propose would work, but in my case, using a saw is a better choice for the following reasons: - MDF is known to be tough on cutting bits. I would rather sacrifice the sharpness of a cheap saw blade than the one of an expensive wide router bit or planer blades - people will more likely own a saw than a router / planer making this method more accessible - using a saw will likely be faster than using a router since implies removing only part of the surface (using a router would imply removing all of the surface). A planer would here win the cutting race (although the theme of MDF + planer is a debated item), not sure however about the nasty mess and dust left to clean after cutting in/about/around the device
40 sheer minutes to reply? You must hear this all the time, but you are what RUclips needs, albeit certainly not what it deserves. If it wasn't highlighted in my original post, I have no experience in attempting what you've done in this vid-jay-oh. While the circ-saw obviously requires more cuts to achieve the desired result, that clearly does not mean it takes longer to process the same effective area. Reading about why MDF dulls blades, another problem with planing (or aggressive routing) seems to be exposing the less compressed, fuzzy interior section. Slicing / corrugating on the other hand leaves a lot of the denser edge to look pretty and absorb collisions. All that said I don't think there's any way to do this without making an apocalyptic amount of dust! I yield to your expertise and sincerely appreciate the prompt educamating. :)
Genius lies in making the complex simple. Well done!
Thanks!
Merci pour le partage de la technique.
Je comprends que la largeur est celle de la lame.
Comment définir la profondeur de coupe et donc épaisseur restante en fonction de l’épaisseur d’origine de la planche/plaque ?
(Je veux utiliser cette technique dans du MDF de 18mm pour un faire un rayon d’environ 50mm et avoir mais deux bouts de planches à 90 degrés).
Trial-and-error unfortunately
Excellent jig
Thanks 👍
Wow nice idea, I want to work on a project and thought of wood bending, I'm just starting into woodworking and don't have all the tools they usually have to do this, I have a circular saw and this is just perfect, will give it a try, thanks
Good luck (and keep it safe)!
Thnks for shar1ng
Genius
vraiment génial, précis et rapide, ça tombait bien je vais en avoir besoin
un grand merci
nico
Merci pour le commentaire
Action ma passion bonjour :D technique simple mais efficace pour le travail du mdf! le plus compliqué dans une chaine de tuto est de trouver la manière la plus simple et accessible de réaliser du bon travail, la on peut dire que c'est réussi!
Merci!
Merci
De rien mon ami
fantastic....i tried it with a box cutter....you've save my bacon! lol
Happy to hear about your bacon
Thanks :)
Welcome!
I've had this in my "saved" to do list for a year, BUT... I wanna' do it on plywood. Anyway, can anyone tell me... is the channel where the popsicle sticks go, done with a router or a thick circular saw blade? My saw doesn't have holes to screw it to a board, but I guess that's something a newbie can do? Whether I can do it or not, it's a brilliant jig and sooo much quicker than measuring off every cut as you go!
The initial channel was made with the same circular saw I used later on. th eposicle sticks just happened to have the right dimention, but any fitting other guide can be used
I know very little about wood working, but I am trying to learn. My question is why is this used fo cuttingr mdf only. Can't it cut 3/4 plywood as well?
You can, but plywood, depending on its type/quality and the bent angle, could break faster. Bent lamination is here the preferred way
Very Brilliant and simple idea for kerf bending, any DIY can do with the circular saw.
Thank you
good idea man 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks man
😊👋👋
Is it possible to make a cylinder or does the MDF break too easily ?...
Will all depend on the diameter of the cylinder... too small and the MDF will not break but give a hard bend (unpleasant visible bend line).
About 35 cm of diameter, for example...
subscribed. great idea. thank you for sharing! question, how many millimeters did you leave at the bottom?
My digital caliper said 2.53mm
Great idea
And a money saver, the price for flexible MDF is pure robbery...
great !!!!
You too!
Muito bom. saudações Brasil!
Obrigado, saudações
Hate to be a nay-sayer, internet mandated, not my fault and all that... but is this any stronger than a thin piece of MDF? I'm not familiar with commercial flexible MDF or even its uses, but it seems it would be a lot faster to just make a thin MDF sheet with a router or maybe even a planer..?
Thanks for thinking along, you make a good point. The final part if not stronger than a thin piece of MDF, it is only as strong as its thinnest part. All the methods you propose would work, but in my case, using a saw is a better choice for the following reasons:
- MDF is known to be tough on cutting bits. I would rather sacrifice the sharpness of a cheap saw blade than the one of an expensive wide router bit or planer blades
- people will more likely own a saw than a router / planer making this method more accessible
- using a saw will likely be faster than using a router since implies removing only part of the surface (using a router would imply removing all of the surface). A planer would here win the cutting race (although the theme of MDF + planer is a debated item), not sure however about the nasty mess and dust left to clean after cutting in/about/around the device
40 sheer minutes to reply? You must hear this all the time, but you are what RUclips needs, albeit certainly not what it deserves.
If it wasn't highlighted in my original post, I have no experience in attempting what you've done in this vid-jay-oh. While the circ-saw obviously requires more cuts to achieve the desired result, that clearly does not mean it takes longer to process the same effective area. Reading about why MDF dulls blades, another problem with planing (or aggressive routing) seems to be exposing the less compressed, fuzzy interior section. Slicing / corrugating on the other hand leaves a lot of the denser edge to look pretty and absorb collisions. All that said I don't think there's any way to do this without making an apocalyptic amount of dust!
I yield to your expertise and sincerely appreciate the prompt educamating. :)
Absorbing collisions, nice! Did no think of that one, but definitely a key point to store the material and keep it from falling apart, good stuff!