Same here - until the 5d classic came along! I then made the digital Rebel my crash cam. I stayed with the 5d for almost 13 years, until I had too many hybrid and video job requests to ignore. I pulled out that Rebel just last week to reminisce and can’t fathom how I worked with a viewfinder that small!
@@mxilplict I've moved up through the ranks. Rebel XT, XTi, T1i, T3i, T5i, now I have a pair of T6i bodies and I love them. Maybe a T8i or 90D is in my future, but I have no real desire to go full-frame or mirrorlesss.
I'm using an m50 and I love it, the only thing I want that it doesn't have is weather sealing. It has a fast buffer and performs well, did a boudoir shoot not long ago and it was the perfect camera for the job.
I have one as well along with an original m1 and a m62. I will say this, the sensor is noisy as all hell, but man the autofocus is dead on accurate. I created a pretty good profile to handle the noise in lightroom, and the body handles fantastically. It's worse point is that sensor unfortunately. That said it can still take great images if you keep the iso low and of course know what you're doing. Here's a fun little tidbit....old M1 destroys the M50 & m62 in color. The later sensors colors are much more dull and end up with having to do more adjustments in Lightroom to make them pop. Cheers.
"The time to upgrade is when your gear is holding you back" Absolutely. Some genres of photography can use a so-called 'entrylevel' camera for decades, while others demand more from the get-go. But if the gear isn't getting in the way, upgrading hardware is far less useful than upgrading learning, practice, trips, studio rentals, or just saving for the future. (But collecting is fun, too! :) )
You said it well. I don't like the way we use the pro or entry level. There are great photographers doing wonders with what we call entry level photographer. I believe there is no entry level and pro level, there are entry level photographers and pro photographers.
As a wedding and event photographer I made the upgrade from my 9 year old Canon T2i to the Canon 6D mark ii and used that for 2 years doing weddings professionally. It was a huge upgrade in features and performance. In the last year I was able to purchase a Canon R5 and love the control the camera gives me, at first I was looking forward to setting the control ring for ISO as that drove me crazy on the T2i along with changing the aperture, was simpler on the 6Dm2 gaining a dedicated wheel for aperture and the R5 has a dedicated wheel for ISO already. So I still don't use the control ring on the RF lenses as I just don't need it.
THANK YOU! You upgrade when you ‘outshoot’ your camera - as you say, when it’s holding you back. What I’d say is buy used bodies from a decent shop, and buy pro glass. Camera bodies lose value very fast. Glass doesn’t. Good glass works out very cheap over time. David, great video! It’s refreshing to hear someone say the gear isn’t the be all/end all.
Always excellent, David. As a kid in the 1960s, I shot the consumer (film) cameras of the day... Kodak "box cameras", the "Instamatic", etc.. When I got out of basic training in the Air Force, and was going home for Christmas, I bought a Nikon 35mm viewfinder camera, to take family photos. Changing to the larger format, from the "110" size was remarkable, even without really upping my skills. It was inspiring enough that when I got back to base, after Christmas, I went to the local camera store and started investigating SLRs. I still remember the first time that I picked up a full-size 35mm camera (Nikon F2, with a nice zoom) and watched the amazing optics snap into focus as I turned the focusing ring. The most interesting initial thing about that system was what you could do with a shallower depth of field. That, and the "real" shutter sound, hooked me, and I instantly became a fanatic. While I've never supported myself with photography, I've always been a "serious enthusiast", and appreciate all the things you get with a more capable camera. (Today, I'm waiting on my Z9, and like everyone else who's ordered it, or something similar, can't wait!) We live in an amazing time, eh? :)
I struggle almost daily with upgrading from the canon M50.... I use to shoot with the Nikon D4s, as you can imagine big difference, I bought the M50 strictly for real estate photography... and instantly fell in love with the quality and canon colors. I decided to try it out on a portrait session, and havent touched my nikon DSLR since... I want to upgrade to the R5 or the R6 or even the R or RP, but I am getting everything I need with the m50.... I do shoot professionally part time.... Im glad you said, upgrade when the gear you have is holding you back, right now that is not the case.... but easier said than done.... Thanks for another great video.
I think one the best pieces of advice is one of the last thing he mentions: read the manual. Knowing how your gear works, and understanding why it does what it does is essential to getting the most out of the equipment that you have. Even an entry level camera can produce exceptional images in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. And like everything else, practice and experimentation is key. It will help you understand the limitations of your gear and will help you work around them.
Great point for those who thinking of upgrading to pro level cameras on knowing what does your camera really do. The key is knowledge level that you have before moving to the next level. That why I read every page of the manual and white papers. The Canon R3 is the next camera I have my eye on because of the frame rate for when I shoot airshows birds reenactments. Since I the Eos 1DX mk III it should be easy to feel the ease of use to close setup of both cameras. Thanks again David
Excellent summary - pro bodies just have more 'grunt & torque' - speed to focus, shutter lag and speed to change setup up due to dials on body instead of down in menus
David, your 10 minute intro to answering C.H.'s question is priceless! Such a great summary of camera-level features. I'm gratified to say that I understood all 10 minutes and KNOW that I don't need to upgrade from my prosumer. Your eventual answer to the question actually applies to all camera owners upgrading or not. So glad I viewed this video, thanks for sharing it.
I have a D810 and went ahead and got the Z7II. I was getting amazing images with the D810 but the additional focus points, getting more shots before buffering, the flip screen for getting low shots, and the smaller size were some of the factors for me switching. The auto eye focus for people and animals is also appealing but I learned to get focus on the D810. The more focus points available and the more shots before buffering were appealing to me in the type of photography I do. I had to get a better tool. I do pet photography. Animals don't always sit still.
I have the Canon rebel t6, and the issues I have are that I can't easily adjust some of the settings. (I always shoot in manual.) Like aperture in regular, and it's not even possible in live mode. I'd rather have dials. But before getting a better camera I want to get a lens. My teacher recommended a 50mm, but not the nifty fifty, I think it's the next one up. I would like a wider range zoom lens, something like 15-115. I can't remember the numbers, but it was about $250. I don't have much money and I like how my cheap equipment is also very light to carry.
Well over a decade ago I wanted to move past the point and shoot. My mom had a film camera and I was always fascinated by it. I think I bought a Nikon D50 and used that for a long time. I had some medical issues pop up which put a damper on the photography for a bit. I was wanting to move past the gear I had and jump into the mirrorless world so I saved up to get a Nikon z6 ii. I've loved every second of it. I definitely went the more traditional route instead of jumping in the deep end and not knowing what all these new features were.
Great advice. I’ve been using the entry level Nikon z5 for about a year and half now. I cannot justify upgrading to a “pro camera” but I have the z9 on my mind!
I went fro a d5300 to a d810. I love my d5300 and still use it occasionally. But I bought the d810 because it had features the d5300 didn’t have, HSS. I have had the d810 for a year now. And I have used this feature a few times and wouldn’t have got some of the shots I achieved without it. Also it gave me a few more megapixels to play with. The other reason I bought the d810 is I was already shooting just manual mode and felt this was a great step up.
I went from my knock off Gopro. And phone. I was wanting to control the Shutter and Aperture for those Sweet shots my Phone couldn't do........ Darn now i have a Rebel T100 Canon ( cheap) with kit lens 18-55mm and purchased a refurbished 75-300mm and it is More sense the Rebel is Crop Sensor if i am correct. So i can get Bird close ups and Blowing people and MYSELF away...... I LOVE IT ..... THANK YOU DAVID....And Adorama . :)
I'm no pro. For me, the decision is whether I upgrade just from my X-T30 with its prime lenses (14mm and 56mm) to an X-T4 with a zoom (16mm-55mm). It'd add weather proofing, image stabilisation and fill-in all that zoom range between 14mm and 56mm which, if I'm honest with myself, is what's holding me back when I'm fiddling around with my two main prime lenses. Although I do love the f1.2 on the 56mm prime (the new zoom would be f2.8).
Now this is a serious debate! Are you a portrait Photographer, you might miss the dof from the 1.2? How often do you intend on shooting in elements needing weather proof?
I shoot fashion with an X-T2 the 18-55 and a few ridiculous aperture and nutty sharp (manual) Chinese lenses. I shake though, especially after a few hours shooting; so I’m going to upgrade to the x-s10 and swap the 18-55 for the 16-80. Reason being the girls/designers don’t care about dof they care about sharp, and did you get the image. Contrary to popular they don’t pose much. If I’m shooting my ‘muse’ I’ll pull out the Chinese lenses if I need to. I shot manual back in the day so it’s not a problem. Back in the closet I have an Om 2sp Bailey gave me when I was 17. I still look at it thinking …. Darn. He’s good. 😳👍🏻
Yes, very good points for the beginner photographer. Always upgrade one's skill before one upgrade his camera. Most cameras today are over specified and more targeted towards the sports photographer. Not all photographers including Pros shoot sports or wildlife. If one is an advertising or studio photographer, the lighting set up he has to acquire is more important. If one is a street photographer like Henri Bresson Cartier, all you need is a small compact camera. Stealth and ease to carry around is probably more important. If one shoot underwater, then the ability to buy the most reliable waterproof housing is more important. It all depends on what one shoot most of the time. I often shoot with an Olympus TG4 which many dismiss as a point&shoot camera but for me, it does what I want best. Even the most expensive mirrorless camera like the Csnon R3 is less useful. The best is to use the appropriate tool for the job you want to do.
1:30 R3 envy! Starting to believe the "6 months to fill pre order" stories :-( As for tips on going Pro gear, couldn't agree more with reading the manual. Plan on spending a lot of time with the manual and body. The Pro cameras work best when you spend the time to customize them for your specific image capturing needs.
My view is upgrade if there is something in the body that is holding you back from getting your shot. Classic example is Daniel’s shot of Luke kicking the cup. Next thing to consider, a true pro will get the same quality image from an entry level camera as compared to pro body
Hey David - thanks again for another great topic feedback and insight! For me Im held back by budget and Im still scraping by on my 9 year old crop sensor Canon 700D - I would love a more recent camera for the better focusing and less noise at higher iso and more than 18megapixels would suit me too for being able to crop in on product shots and being able to control camera via wifi and send shots to a tablet the list goes on - however i know it wont make me a better photographer and im still on the fence to stick with crop sensor for budget reasons like a Canon 90D or 850D or RP if I want to go full frame - Im going to carry on with what i have wring out as much quality as I can in all my shots for products and people and hope to update one day in 2022
I’m firmly in your ‘tight budget’ camp, John. I hope you get a nice little windfall of cash to help yourself to the gear you really want/require/deserve.
David During lockdown I started walking the beach . I could social distance away from people . I tookmup bird photography mainly Pelicans, Egrets and Gulls . I needed a faster camera and lens than I used in landscape photography so I bought a pro level camera body with double the focus points and a PLm lens with a faster focus motor
Funny: I've been going from pro gear (heavy, big, and did I say heavy?) ... to a mirrorless Fuji, the X-E3, and a Lumix point and shoot, the ZS100. I must rush to say that this is only for street and other serendipitous kinds of things. I just can't carry my, for example, D810 around town.
I have a Nikon D5600 that my parents gave me back at 2019, as of rn I'm collecting a lot of accessories especially lighting gear and gears that doesn't tied directly to the camera if i lose it.
Hi good video I do have a question have you used a Canon 90d and if so will it work great with a 24mm 2.8 STM and a Sigma 18-300 I have heard that you have to have the best glass that's why I am asking I was using a Canon SL2.
I have a Nikon D500... I use it for Wildlife mostly. I have it paired with a 200-500mm f5.6. When I bought the body in 2016 (yikes, so long ago) it was considered a Pro body, basically the APS-C version of the D5. Absolutely love this camera... mirrorless is my next step. Maybe the new Z 9?? Doubt it :D Thanks for the video David
Since I switched from my first cheap "Canon T1i" in 2010 to my first full frame with a used 5DMKII it already made a huge difference, then not so much to a 6D but when I went to my actual R6, it was a total game changer and night & day difference again! Never going back to APS-C or DSLR ever again! I however couldn't justify the major price increase for the R5 only for 1 extra thing... more Mega Pixels, like 20MP is kind of cheap for 2021 to be honest and bare minimum while 50mp is overkill for 90% persons easily. It just sucks they limited it that much just not to hurt their R5 sales cause it should at least been 30MP like the R, which would had been just perfect for 98% users.
I still haven't outgrown my Sony A6300, but this holiday I decided to make it more interesting by bringing a 10 year old point and shoot to see if I'd still be able to get photos and videos I'm satisfied with. So far the Sony DSC-HX9V has managed to keep up with me. 🎅📸
I guess my D750 is a prosumer but it works for me. I would buy a pro z9 but my budget.. I choose my gear by what I need it to do I work with whatever limitations it has.
Big tank cameras?!! Well, I wait for professional but keep practices with current cameras until I would go upgrade it. Or renting the gears, try it out, and someday pre-owning one. I was looking the specs with Canon R3 but whoa! Also looking at Canon R6 that would be mine prefect budget, that specs I wanted as well. Rather, wait until new announcements from Canon (that'll be my hoping). Could possibly next year. Have a healthy Happy New Year 2022 in just around corner... 🍾🍷🎉📸
I use pro grade equipment in my work. My personal rule for gear is, if I can’t verbalize ‘exactly’ how this piece of gear is going to improve my photography then I don’t buy it. I certainly wasn’t always that way. p.s. I enjoy your videos.
I am a beginner photographer , right now i’m still on my first camera “canon rebel T7” … and for some reason i want to upgrade the body . I have a 50mm 1.8 stm & a 75-300mm lens … I really like the prime lenses . I was about to buy a canon 77d but i think i’ll wait a lil longer
1 tera card is crazy insane i actually have the same problem right now. i am shotting with my d5100 since 3 years now and i fell confortable to upgrade but it so confusing.
I've had a rebel xti for 15ish years. I'm sure there is more to learn. I know I can't shoot at night or low lit environments. Or crop in much if I want.
Would also add better cameras have better batteries - eg the M50/RP/M6/Ti6 etc have those limiting, awful LP-e17 vs getting the better LP-e6h in the R5 and R6 and the awesome LP-e19s in the R3 and 1dx’s. Also agree if someone doesn’t know why they specifically need better cameras, then they don’t need them. In my opinion a photographer should build up their knowledge and experience first (education), followed by lighting equipment and lenses before upgrading their bodies. I would also say they need to start with the minimum body needed to get access to manual shooting settings and a lens mount that offers good enough frame rate, sensor performance and variety of lenses to grow (ideally with room to grow toward pro lenses). Luckily these minimum bodies can be bought for relatively cheap (eg for Canon: 7d2 for sports, R or RP for portraits and events, 5dsr for architecture/landscape), and great lenses can be bought used. Many pro lenses from older generation EF models can be bought for bargain prices and still deliver excellent quality and performance and can be adapted seamlessly to the latest bodies.
I've been looking at a lot of vintage photographs lately....stunningly beautiful...and they actually managed it without auto focus and a bunch of computer chips....go figure
I may be totally wrong on this, but I don't encourage anyone to purchase the low end consumer grade photo gear. Buying used older versions of high end gear from a reputable source, in my opinion is a better way to save money.. I originally bought low end gear myself, then quickly realized it was costing more to unload the cheap stuff on some other poor sucker at a loss, then buy the thing I should have purchased in the first place. I've (briefly) owned DSLRs where looking into a viewfinder shows nothing but black with a tiny squinty dark rectangle image that looks like it's 30 feet away...virtually IMPOSSIBLE to use with a manual focus lens. Then, after carefully framing the subject to fill the field, the RAW file image doesn't come close to matching the viewfiinder field of view. I also hate how they make you hit ten tiny, semi-functional arrow buttons to change ISO or white balance. Then, there are those lenses that change aperture when you zoom, or zoom when you focus (focus breathe). I especially hate those lenses that slowly zoom in when the lens is tilted down and zoom out when the lens is tilted up, or the lens that droops (tilts and swings) while zooming after it's a few months old... or when the front element rotates when pressing the shutter half way down to auto-focus while using a polarizing filter. Sometimes you get lucky, but it's really hard to make good images with that gear. I feel bad for beginners, who get discouraged and blame themselves when much of the problem is crappy gear. It's no wonder so many gravitate to cell phone cameras.
My Canon M6ii (and 90D) has pixel density that is equivalent to 85 megapixel Full Frame. This is extra usable for wildlife. No PRO camera is even close to this.... The R5 roughly half ...
I know its not a pro camera but going from the 200D(SL2) to the 90D with its 32mp sensor I couldn't go back. For this reason I wouldn't want the R6 but R5 if I go that way.
@@kevinjones8583 amazingly well! I don't find the 32.5 mp sensor a problem at all which I hear a lot about. I have a few expensive lenses but even the 18-135 or 10-18 works great. Going from the 200D was light and day.
Happy Merry Christmas. Good video. I tried to do a picture where the Christmas lights and the beautiful ambient light in the house. But I use two speed light and I killed the beautiful light in the house. The picture look great but I can see the beautiful light in the house. Can you help how I can do that kind the picture?
I'm very confused. The question was about moving from a "prosumer" camera to a professional camera, and yet there are consistent "strawman" comparisons to entry-level cameras (e.g., those that use Micro SD cards).
Before you buy a "pro" camera, ask yourself, which features do I need, that my current camera has caused me to miss shots because it lacks? The anecdote about burst at a concert is a great example. If you have never been in a situation like that, and you can't name a feature, and you just want to upgrade for better "image quality", you aren't ready to upgrade the body, maybe just look at getting some new fun glass to try some different focal lengths. PS: by the time I was ready to by another camera, I knew I wanted 20fps afc, good ibis, and something with great weather sealing which is still relatively compact, something with two card slots because I have had cards corrupt before and I've lost photos to it. something with a fully articulating screen. something that shoots 4k30p 4:2:2 10 bit internal with nice and flat built in colour profiles for flexible grading with plenty of rich colour depth. and once I figured out the features that I needed, I no longer needed to ask anyone 'which camera should I upgrade to?' or 'is this a good camera for what I shoot?' it sounds like I'm asking for the world but those who have been shooting a while might know exactly the camera I'm describing and I've been extremely happy with it for these last few years. now I've even got other cameras to supplement that one, or just to take when that one is too bulky and I just want something that fits in a pocket or purse. (at some point I sold it to get a different system for some other pro work I thought might be better suited to that job) and not to sound too much like an ad, but when I was ready to buy it, adorama did come in clutch with an amazing bundle. they included a full kit with a compliment of a bunch of stuff I didn't necessarily need, but I definitely wanted lol. TL;DR: Once you learn enough, you won't need to ask questions about your gear, merely your techniques. so just keep shooting, and I do recommend checking adorama when you know which features you want because they probably have the best deals on new stuff. so much value for money it's wild. if you're a little bit goblin like me who likes opening shiny things, you're gonna have a good time with a kit from their store. c:
The thing I'm looking for in the camera world doesn't exist yet, as far as I know. I have an expensive Canon 5D MKIV already. The only protection I have against theft is insurance. I'd like to see the next generation offer some security feature inside the camera. Smart phone offer phone security for their expensive devices. Thieves know that and realize that stealing the phones won't do them much good. If camera security got the same reputation, theft may not be as good an option for thieves. I know manufacturers could do it. They already have a feature that tells you when your memory card is not in and not to shoot, if you choose that option. They now have touch screen option for some of the cameras. The next step should be to add security.
Firstly, in the right hands the most basic camera can be a pro camera. Im not really sure what a pro camera is tbh. As with all things imo it's about need. If you want to shoot high speed birds in flight or produce huge prints then you need a certain type of camera with certain abilities. It's the abilities that you're paying for rather than something called a professional camera. I know wedding photographer pro's that use a Sony a7iii and it's enough. I know amateur birders with an A1 cause it suits their requirement. Does it make you a better photographer....well imo the better the camera the easier it makes photography as you don't lose so many shots to poor autofocus or e.g. poor dynamic range. Anyone that says it doesn't is wrong imo as you don't pay 7k for a camera with zero advantages over a 300 one. Be real
i have never neede 30fps, a pro grade camera does not make the photographer, the photographer makes the images , still happy and doing well with my 5d3
The biggest thing with something like the R5 is if you're not buying the $2600-3100+ high end lenses, you're NOT getting what you pay for with the sensor. The cheaper f/4 L zoom lenses, adapted lenses, and cheap non-L lenses don't even come close to rendering 45MP worth of detail. So be prepared to spend on far more than just a body.
I own the 5dsr, R5, RF 2.8/2.0L zooms (15-35/28-70/70-200) as well as the range of RF and EF 1.4/1.2L primes (24/35/50/85 EF, 50/85 RF) and I have to strongly disagree with a blanket statement that adapted and < $2600 lenses are out-resolved by the R5 sensor. On the R5 the RF 70-200 2.8L is only the slightest sharper than the 4.0L (I’ve compared both last month), and lenses like the EF 35 1.4L ii are just as sharp on the R5 as the 5dsr ( I have compared them side-by-side, 1:1). The EF 35 1.4Lii and EF 85 1.4L primes are also sharper than their newer, pricier RF zoom (28-70/80-200) counterparts at those focal lengths when adapted to the R5. Only when comparing the old EF 50/85 1.2L to the RF 50/85 1.2L mounted on the R5 is there a very clear difference that even a client can see. As for resolving 45mpix of detail, the truth is that it is very hard to quantify what that statement really means, and if you’re going by DXO’s charts then very few lenses accomplish that (probably none named Canon). I would agree that a non-L kit lens or old non-L EF prime would waste the R5’s abilities, but the same is true for older lenses on any newer sensor or camera.
Canon R5 is IMHO no "pro camera": has 30min video recording limit which "pro cameras" don't have and also the overheating problem. Also on photo shooting on sport events where a Canon R5 user had that problem. So Canon is for me the wrong system decision. Sony A1 doesn't have all that topics.
Towards the end, he pointed out 'read the manual'. There are a LOT of features in the more advanced cameras that are not obvious, and without knowing they;'re there, they can't be taken advantage of. Whether it's customizing the buttons to do what you want them to do or taking advantage of custom WB, a dozen different AF modes, programming program mode limits, trap focus, multi-exposure, etc., the first step is knowing what's possible.
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I've shot award winning photos on, sold prints from, shot dozens of weddings with, and had a fantastic time shooting an original digital Rebel.
Same here - until the 5d classic came along! I then made the digital Rebel my crash cam. I stayed with the 5d for almost 13 years, until I had too many hybrid and video job requests to ignore. I pulled out that Rebel just last week to reminisce and can’t fathom how I worked with a viewfinder that small!
@@mxilplict I've moved up through the ranks. Rebel XT, XTi, T1i, T3i, T5i, now I have a pair of T6i bodies and I love them. Maybe a T8i or 90D is in my future, but I have no real desire to go full-frame or mirrorlesss.
I'm using an m50 and I love it, the only thing I want that it doesn't have is weather sealing. It has a fast buffer and performs well, did a boudoir shoot not long ago and it was the perfect camera for the job.
I have one as well along with an original m1 and a m62. I will say this, the sensor is noisy as all hell, but man the autofocus is dead on accurate. I created a pretty good profile to handle the noise in lightroom, and the body handles fantastically. It's worse point is that sensor unfortunately. That said it can still take great images if you keep the iso low and of course know what you're doing.
Here's a fun little tidbit....old M1 destroys the M50 & m62 in color. The later sensors colors are much more dull and end up with having to do more adjustments in Lightroom to make them pop.
Cheers.
"The time to upgrade is when your gear is holding you back"
Absolutely. Some genres of photography can use a so-called 'entrylevel' camera for decades, while others demand more from the get-go. But if the gear isn't getting in the way, upgrading hardware is far less useful than upgrading learning, practice, trips, studio rentals, or just saving for the future.
(But collecting is fun, too! :) )
You said it well. I don't like the way we use the pro or entry level. There are great photographers doing wonders with what we call entry level photographer. I believe there is no entry level and pro level, there are entry level photographers and pro photographers.
As a wedding and event photographer I made the upgrade from my 9 year old Canon T2i to the Canon 6D mark ii and used that for 2 years doing weddings professionally. It was a huge upgrade in features and performance. In the last year I was able to purchase a Canon R5 and love the control the camera gives me, at first I was looking forward to setting the control ring for ISO as that drove me crazy on the T2i along with changing the aperture, was simpler on the 6Dm2 gaining a dedicated wheel for aperture and the R5 has a dedicated wheel for ISO already.
So I still don't use the control ring on the RF lenses as I just don't need it.
THANK YOU! You upgrade when you ‘outshoot’ your camera - as you say, when it’s holding you back. What I’d say is buy used bodies from a decent shop, and buy pro glass. Camera bodies lose value very fast. Glass doesn’t. Good glass works out very cheap over time. David, great video! It’s refreshing to hear someone say the gear isn’t the be all/end all.
Always excellent, David. As a kid in the 1960s, I shot the consumer (film) cameras of the day... Kodak "box cameras", the "Instamatic", etc.. When I got out of basic training in the Air Force, and was going home for Christmas, I bought a Nikon 35mm viewfinder camera, to take family photos. Changing to the larger format, from the "110" size was remarkable, even without really upping my skills. It was inspiring enough that when I got back to base, after Christmas, I went to the local camera store and started investigating SLRs. I still remember the first time that I picked up a full-size 35mm camera (Nikon F2, with a nice zoom) and watched the amazing optics snap into focus as I turned the focusing ring. The most interesting initial thing about that system was what you could do with a shallower depth of field. That, and the "real" shutter sound, hooked me, and I instantly became a fanatic. While I've never supported myself with photography, I've always been a "serious enthusiast", and appreciate all the things you get with a more capable camera. (Today, I'm waiting on my Z9, and like everyone else who's ordered it, or something similar, can't wait!) We live in an amazing time, eh? :)
I struggle almost daily with upgrading from the canon M50.... I use to shoot with the Nikon D4s, as you can imagine big difference, I bought the M50 strictly for real estate photography... and instantly fell in love with the quality and canon colors. I decided to try it out on a portrait session, and havent touched my nikon DSLR since... I want to upgrade to the R5 or the R6 or even the R or RP, but I am getting everything I need with the m50.... I do shoot professionally part time.... Im glad you said, upgrade when the gear you have is holding you back, right now that is not the case.... but easier said than done.... Thanks for another great video.
I think one the best pieces of advice is one of the last thing he mentions: read the manual. Knowing how your gear works, and understanding why it does what it does is essential to getting the most out of the equipment that you have. Even an entry level camera can produce exceptional images in the hands of someone who knows how to use it.
And like everything else, practice and experimentation is key. It will help you understand the limitations of your gear and will help you work around them.
Great point for those who thinking of upgrading to pro level cameras on knowing what does your camera really do. The key is knowledge level that you have before moving to the next level. That why I read every page of the manual and white papers. The Canon R3 is the next camera I have my eye on because of the frame rate for when I shoot airshows birds reenactments. Since I the Eos 1DX mk III it should be easy to feel the ease of use to close setup of both cameras. Thanks again David
I've using a Canon 80D for about 3 years, and I don't feel the need to upgrade to a full frame camera yet. I'm always in for some good glass!
I went from the 80D to the R6 early this year, changed my work flow best decision I've made
Went from 70D to the EOS R best decision ever, was a game changer for me.
I always enjoy watching you speak about photography. Your enthusiasm is really infectious. Thank you for the great answer.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent summary - pro bodies just have more 'grunt & torque' - speed to focus, shutter lag and speed to change setup up due to dials on body instead of down in menus
David, your 10 minute intro to answering C.H.'s question is priceless! Such a great summary of camera-level features. I'm gratified to say that I understood all 10 minutes and KNOW that I don't need to upgrade from my prosumer. Your eventual answer to the question actually applies to all camera owners upgrading or not. So glad I viewed this video, thanks for sharing it.
Thank you for more great advice and perspective. I always look forward to your videos and I’m never disappointed.
Thanks, David Happy New Year!
Looking forward to this coming year!
Thanks a lot sir for sharing these insights. I am planning to upgrade from nikon d3500 to nikon d780. Now I am absolutely clear. 🙏
Great info....how to make steps up and when your skills need it.
I have a D810 and went ahead and got the Z7II. I was getting amazing images with the D810 but the additional focus points, getting more shots before buffering, the flip screen for getting low shots, and the smaller size were some of the factors for me switching. The auto eye focus for people and animals is also appealing but I learned to get focus on the D810. The more focus points available and the more shots before buffering were appealing to me in the type of photography I do. I had to get a better tool. I do pet photography. Animals don't always sit still.
I have the Canon rebel t6, and the issues I have are that I can't easily adjust some of the settings. (I always shoot in manual.) Like aperture in regular, and it's not even possible in live mode. I'd rather have dials. But before getting a better camera I want to get a lens. My teacher recommended a 50mm, but not the nifty fifty, I think it's the next one up. I would like a wider range zoom lens, something like 15-115. I can't remember the numbers, but it was about $250. I don't have much money and I like how my cheap equipment is also very light to carry.
Well over a decade ago I wanted to move past the point and shoot. My mom had a film camera and I was always fascinated by it. I think I bought a Nikon D50 and used that for a long time. I had some medical issues pop up which put a damper on the photography for a bit. I was wanting to move past the gear I had and jump into the mirrorless world so I saved up to get a Nikon z6 ii. I've loved every second of it.
I definitely went the more traditional route instead of jumping in the deep end and not knowing what all these new features were.
Great advice. I’ve been using the entry level Nikon z5 for about a year and half now. I cannot justify upgrading to a “pro camera” but I have the z9 on my mind!
Excellent advice David. Thank you!
I went fro a d5300 to a d810. I love my d5300 and still use it occasionally. But I bought the d810 because it had features the d5300 didn’t have, HSS. I have had the d810 for a year now. And I have used this feature a few times and wouldn’t have got some of the shots I achieved without it. Also it gave me a few more megapixels to play with. The other reason I bought the d810 is I was already shooting just manual mode and felt this was a great step up.
I went from my knock off Gopro. And phone. I was wanting to control the Shutter and Aperture for those Sweet shots my Phone couldn't do........ Darn now i have a Rebel T100 Canon ( cheap) with kit lens 18-55mm and purchased a refurbished 75-300mm and it is More sense the Rebel is Crop Sensor if i am correct. So i can get Bird close ups and Blowing people and MYSELF away...... I LOVE IT ..... THANK YOU DAVID....And Adorama . :)
The best advice in this video: upgrade your gear when the equipment you have is getting the way of making the pictures you want. Excellent! :-)
Excellent, very correct, amazing information. David! nice job again 👍
I'm no pro. For me, the decision is whether I upgrade just from my X-T30 with its prime lenses (14mm and 56mm) to an X-T4 with a zoom (16mm-55mm). It'd add weather proofing, image stabilisation and fill-in all that zoom range between 14mm and 56mm which, if I'm honest with myself, is what's holding me back when I'm fiddling around with my two main prime lenses. Although I do love the f1.2 on the 56mm prime (the new zoom would be f2.8).
Now this is a serious debate! Are you a portrait Photographer, you might miss the dof from the 1.2?
How often do you intend on shooting in elements needing weather proof?
I shoot fashion with an X-T2 the 18-55 and a few ridiculous aperture and nutty sharp (manual) Chinese lenses. I shake though, especially after a few hours shooting; so I’m going to upgrade to the x-s10 and swap the 18-55 for the 16-80. Reason being the girls/designers don’t care about dof they care about sharp, and did you get the image. Contrary to popular they don’t pose much. If I’m shooting my ‘muse’ I’ll pull out the Chinese lenses if I need to. I shot manual back in the day so it’s not a problem. Back in the closet I have an Om 2sp Bailey gave me when I was 17. I still look at it thinking …. Darn. He’s good. 😳👍🏻
mine is 11 years old - and still don't think of upgrading 😬
I have the SL3 and it seems great to me. Only thing I’m missing is a headphone jack
I love my Canon sl3,its my first camera! So far so good 📷🎥💥
Yes, very good points for the beginner photographer. Always upgrade one's skill before one upgrade his camera. Most cameras today are over specified and more targeted towards the sports photographer. Not all photographers including Pros shoot sports or wildlife. If one is an advertising or studio photographer, the lighting set up he has to acquire is more important. If one is a street photographer like Henri Bresson Cartier, all you need is a small compact camera. Stealth and ease to carry around is probably more important. If one shoot underwater, then the ability to buy the most reliable waterproof housing is more important. It all depends on what one shoot most of the time. I often shoot with an Olympus TG4 which many dismiss as a point&shoot camera but for me, it does what I want best. Even the most expensive mirrorless camera like the Csnon R3 is less useful. The best is to use the appropriate tool for the job you want to do.
Well said.
A few years ago, I jumped to high-end cameras and lenses. Boy, what a difference. I regret that I did not do it early on.
1:30 R3 envy! Starting to believe the "6 months to fill pre order" stories :-( As for tips on going Pro gear, couldn't agree more with reading the manual. Plan on spending a lot of time with the manual and body. The Pro cameras work best when you spend the time to customize them for your specific image capturing needs.
My view is upgrade if there is something in the body that is holding you back from getting your shot. Classic example is Daniel’s shot of Luke kicking the cup.
Next thing to consider, a true pro will get the same quality image from an entry level camera as compared to pro body
Hey David - thanks again for another great topic feedback and insight! For me Im held back by budget and Im still scraping by on my 9 year old crop sensor Canon 700D - I would love a more recent camera for the better focusing and less noise at higher iso and more than 18megapixels would suit me too for being able to crop in on product shots and being able to control camera via wifi and send shots to a tablet the list goes on - however i know it wont make me a better photographer and im still on the fence to stick with crop sensor for budget reasons like a Canon 90D or 850D or RP if I want to go full frame - Im going to carry on with what i have wring out as much quality as I can in all my shots for products and people and hope to update one day in 2022
I’m firmly in your ‘tight budget’ camp, John. I hope you get a nice little windfall of cash to help yourself to the gear you really want/require/deserve.
If you're going to go the full frame route get a used EOS R instead of the RP, much better.
Sounds like you're ready for an upgrade! :)
Great advice. Thanks.
As a working professional you have the ability to depreciate and write off gear, so there are tax and economic reason as to when to upgrade as well.
My D5’s allow me to shoot action in dark and dingy gyms. I can’ wait to get my hands on some Z9’s!
David Bergman #1
David
During lockdown I started walking the beach . I could social distance away from people . I tookmup bird photography mainly Pelicans, Egrets and Gulls . I needed a faster camera and lens than I used in landscape photography so I bought a pro level camera body with double the focus points and a PLm lens with a faster focus motor
Funny: I've been going from pro gear (heavy, big, and did I say heavy?) ... to a mirrorless Fuji, the X-E3, and a Lumix point and shoot, the ZS100. I must rush to say that this is only for street and other serendipitous kinds of things. I just can't carry my, for example, D810 around town.
I have a Nikon D5600 that my parents gave me back at 2019, as of rn I'm collecting a lot of accessories especially lighting gear and gears that doesn't tied directly to the camera if i lose it.
Hi good video I do have a question have you used a Canon 90d and if so will it work great with a 24mm 2.8 STM and a Sigma 18-300 I have heard that you have to have the best glass that's why I am asking I was using a Canon SL2.
I believe it will work, but as I say in the video, if you don't know why you need to upgrade, then don't do it yet. :)
I have a Nikon D500... I use it for Wildlife mostly. I have it paired with a 200-500mm f5.6. When I bought the body in 2016 (yikes, so long ago) it was considered a Pro body, basically the APS-C version of the D5. Absolutely love this camera... mirrorless is my next step. Maybe the new Z 9?? Doubt it :D Thanks for the video David
I've heard the 500 is pretty good for exactly what you're using it for.
Insightful advice!
Good and helpful info. Thanks.
Since I switched from my first cheap "Canon T1i" in 2010 to my first full frame with a used 5DMKII it already made a huge difference, then not so much to a 6D but when I went to my actual R6, it was a total game changer and night & day difference again! Never going back to APS-C or DSLR ever again!
I however couldn't justify the major price increase for the R5 only for 1 extra thing... more Mega Pixels, like 20MP is kind of cheap for 2021 to be honest and bare minimum while 50mp is overkill for 90% persons easily. It just sucks they limited it that much just not to hurt their R5 sales cause it should at least been 30MP like the R, which would had been just perfect for 98% users.
I still haven't outgrown my Sony A6300, but this holiday I decided to make it more interesting by bringing a 10 year old point and shoot to see if I'd still be able to get photos and videos I'm satisfied with. So far the Sony DSC-HX9V has managed to keep up with me. 🎅📸
I guess my D750 is a prosumer but it works for me. I would buy a pro z9 but my budget.. I choose my gear by what I need it to do I work with whatever limitations it has.
I have the EOS R and I love it. It is not limiting me, but I wonder if IBIS is something that I really would notice in the R5 or R6.
Only if you often shoot in low light or at slow shutter speeds.
Big tank cameras?!! Well, I wait for professional but keep practices with current cameras until I would go upgrade it. Or renting the gears, try it out, and someday pre-owning one. I was looking the specs with Canon R3 but whoa! Also looking at Canon R6 that would be mine prefect budget, that specs I wanted as well. Rather, wait until new announcements from Canon (that'll be my hoping). Could possibly next year. Have a healthy Happy New Year 2022 in just around corner... 🍾🍷🎉📸
I use pro grade equipment in my work. My personal rule for gear is, if I can’t verbalize ‘exactly’ how this piece of gear is going to improve my photography then I don’t buy it. I certainly wasn’t always that way.
p.s. I enjoy your videos.
Smart! And thanks. :)
I am a beginner photographer , right now i’m still on my first camera “canon rebel T7” … and for some reason i want to upgrade the body . I have a 50mm 1.8 stm & a 75-300mm lens … I really like the prime lenses . I was about to buy a canon 77d but i think i’ll wait a lil longer
1 tera card is crazy insane
i actually have the same problem right now. i am shotting with my d5100 since 3 years now and i fell confortable to upgrade but it so confusing.
: OUTSTANDING info COMMENTARY. 🐢 😀 👍 🐢 😀 👍
I've had a rebel xti for 15ish years. I'm sure there is more to learn. I know I can't shoot at night or low lit environments. Or crop in much if I want.
Good ans to great question
I'm getting 60fps raw from my Olympus E-m1 ii. Is that a pro camera?
Awesome 👍 sir i have canon EOS DSLR 1000 D camera 📷
Would also add better cameras have better batteries - eg the M50/RP/M6/Ti6 etc have those limiting, awful LP-e17 vs getting the better LP-e6h in the R5 and R6 and the awesome LP-e19s in the R3 and 1dx’s.
Also agree if someone doesn’t know why they specifically need better cameras, then they don’t need them. In my opinion a photographer should build up their knowledge and experience first (education), followed by lighting equipment and lenses before upgrading their bodies. I would also say they need to start with the minimum body needed to get access to manual shooting settings and a lens mount that offers good enough frame rate, sensor performance and variety of lenses to grow (ideally with room to grow toward pro lenses). Luckily these minimum bodies can be bought for relatively cheap (eg for Canon: 7d2 for sports, R or RP for portraits and events, 5dsr for architecture/landscape), and great lenses can be bought used. Many pro lenses from older generation EF models can be bought for bargain prices and still deliver excellent quality and performance and can be adapted seamlessly to the latest bodies.
I think I’ll just put this on every R/AskPhotography
Full frame has big sensors it effect fine details of image ? Or we csn compesate with extrrnal light in crop sensor ?
I've been looking at a lot of vintage photographs lately....stunningly beautiful...and they actually managed it without auto focus and a bunch of computer chips....go figure
I may be totally wrong on this, but I don't encourage anyone to purchase the low end consumer grade photo gear. Buying used older versions of high end gear from a reputable source, in my opinion is a better way to save money.. I originally bought low end gear myself, then quickly realized it was costing more to unload the cheap stuff on some other poor sucker at a loss, then buy the thing I should have purchased in the first place. I've (briefly) owned DSLRs where looking into a viewfinder shows nothing but black with a tiny squinty dark rectangle image that looks like it's 30 feet away...virtually IMPOSSIBLE to use with a manual focus lens. Then, after carefully framing the subject to fill the field, the RAW file image doesn't come close to matching the viewfiinder field of view. I also hate how they make you hit ten tiny, semi-functional arrow buttons to change ISO or white balance. Then, there are those lenses that change aperture when you zoom, or zoom when you focus (focus breathe). I especially hate those lenses that slowly zoom in when the lens is tilted down and zoom out when the lens is tilted up, or the lens that droops (tilts and swings) while zooming after it's a few months old... or when the front element rotates when pressing the shutter half way down to auto-focus while using a polarizing filter. Sometimes you get lucky, but it's really hard to make good images with that gear. I feel bad for beginners, who get discouraged and blame themselves when much of the problem is crappy gear. It's no wonder so many gravitate to cell phone cameras.
My Canon M6ii (and 90D) has pixel density that is equivalent to 85 megapixel Full Frame. This is extra usable for wildlife. No PRO camera is even close to this.... The R5 roughly half ...
I know its not a pro camera but going from the 200D(SL2) to the 90D with its 32mp sensor I couldn't go back. For this reason I wouldn't want the R6 but R5 if I go that way.
How's the 90D working for you? I'm going to be upgrading to it, when it comes time.
@@kevinjones8583 amazingly well! I don't find the 32.5 mp sensor a problem at all which I hear a lot about. I have a few expensive lenses but even the 18-135 or 10-18 works great. Going from the 200D was light and day.
Happy Merry Christmas. Good video. I tried to do a picture where the Christmas lights and the beautiful ambient light in the house. But I use two speed light and I killed the beautiful light in the house. The picture look great but I can see the beautiful light in the house. Can you help how I can do that kind the picture?
You need to keep the light from hitting anywhere except your subject. Small modifier, maybe use grids or snoots, get it in close, etc.
Great video learned a lot. No I am not ready to step up and now know why . Thank you!
Some prospective clients asked: "What camera do you use." and when I said "Canon 80D", I never heard from them again. What did I DO wrong? 🤑
Only thing you did wrong was picking the wrong prospective clients. They should hire you for your work and your work ethic. Not for your camera.
R5 isn't technically a professional camera, it's prosumer, the R3 and 1DX MK3 are professional.
I'm very confused. The question was about moving from a "prosumer" camera to a professional camera, and yet there are consistent "strawman" comparisons to entry-level cameras (e.g., those that use Micro SD cards).
Before you buy a "pro" camera, ask yourself, which features do I need, that my current camera has caused me to miss shots because it lacks?
The anecdote about burst at a concert is a great example. If you have never been in a situation like that, and you can't name a feature, and you just want to upgrade for better "image quality", you aren't ready to upgrade the body, maybe just look at getting some new fun glass to try some different focal lengths.
PS: by the time I was ready to by another camera, I knew I wanted 20fps afc, good ibis, and something with great weather sealing which is still relatively compact, something with two card slots because I have had cards corrupt before and I've lost photos to it. something with a fully articulating screen. something that shoots 4k30p 4:2:2 10 bit internal with nice and flat built in colour profiles for flexible grading with plenty of rich colour depth.
and once I figured out the features that I needed, I no longer needed to ask anyone 'which camera should I upgrade to?' or 'is this a good camera for what I shoot?'
it sounds like I'm asking for the world but those who have been shooting a while might know exactly the camera I'm describing and I've been extremely happy with it for these last few years. now I've even got other cameras to supplement that one, or just to take when that one is too bulky and I just want something that fits in a pocket or purse.
(at some point I sold it to get a different system for some other pro work I thought might be better suited to that job)
and not to sound too much like an ad, but when I was ready to buy it, adorama did come in clutch with an amazing bundle. they included a full kit with a compliment of a bunch of stuff I didn't necessarily need, but I definitely wanted lol.
TL;DR: Once you learn enough, you won't need to ask questions about your gear, merely your techniques. so just keep shooting, and I do recommend checking adorama when you know which features you want because they probably have the best deals on new stuff. so much value for money it's wild. if you're a little bit goblin like me who likes opening shiny things, you're gonna have a good time with a kit from their store. c:
Well said! And yea - the folks at Adorama are good to us photographers. :)
The thing I'm looking for in the camera world doesn't exist yet, as far as I know. I have an expensive Canon 5D MKIV already. The only protection I have against theft is insurance. I'd like to see the next generation offer some security feature inside the camera. Smart phone offer phone security for their expensive devices. Thieves know that and realize that stealing the phones won't do them much good. If camera security got the same reputation, theft may not be as good an option for thieves.
I know manufacturers could do it. They already have a feature that tells you when your memory card is not in and not to shoot, if you choose that option. They now have touch screen option for some of the cameras. The next step should be to add security.
Good idea! Maybe with the new eye detection tech, they could make it only work with registered iris'.
Firstly, in the right hands the most basic camera can be a pro camera. Im not really sure what a pro camera is tbh. As with all things imo it's about need. If you want to shoot high speed birds in flight or produce huge prints then you need a certain type of camera with certain abilities. It's the abilities that you're paying for rather than something called a professional camera. I know wedding photographer pro's that use a Sony a7iii and it's enough. I know amateur birders with an A1 cause it suits their requirement.
Does it make you a better photographer....well imo the better the camera the easier it makes photography as you don't lose so many shots to poor autofocus or e.g. poor dynamic range. Anyone that says it doesn't is wrong imo as you don't pay 7k for a camera with zero advantages over a 300 one. Be real
Well said 💯 I have a Canon sl3 can wait to really use it the way I know I can🎥📷💥
i have never neede 30fps, a pro grade camera does not make the photographer, the photographer makes the images , still happy and doing well with my 5d3
The biggest thing with something like the R5 is if you're not buying the $2600-3100+ high end lenses, you're NOT getting what you pay for with the sensor. The cheaper f/4 L zoom lenses, adapted lenses, and cheap non-L lenses don't even come close to rendering 45MP worth of detail. So be prepared to spend on far more than just a body.
I own the 5dsr, R5, RF 2.8/2.0L zooms (15-35/28-70/70-200) as well as the range of RF and EF 1.4/1.2L primes (24/35/50/85 EF, 50/85 RF) and I have to strongly disagree with a blanket statement that adapted and < $2600 lenses are out-resolved by the R5 sensor. On the R5 the RF 70-200 2.8L is only the slightest sharper than the 4.0L (I’ve compared both last month), and lenses like the EF 35 1.4L ii are just as sharp on the R5 as the 5dsr ( I have compared them side-by-side, 1:1). The EF 35 1.4Lii and EF 85 1.4L primes are also sharper than their newer, pricier RF zoom (28-70/80-200) counterparts at those focal lengths when adapted to the R5. Only when comparing the old EF 50/85 1.2L to the RF 50/85 1.2L mounted on the R5 is there a very clear difference that even a client can see. As for resolving 45mpix of detail, the truth is that it is very hard to quantify what that statement really means, and if you’re going by DXO’s charts then very few lenses accomplish that (probably none named Canon).
I would agree that a non-L kit lens or old non-L EF prime would waste the R5’s abilities, but the same is true for older lenses on any newer sensor or camera.
Canon R5 is IMHO no "pro camera": has 30min video recording limit which "pro cameras" don't have and also the overheating problem. Also on photo shooting on sport events where a Canon R5 user had that problem. So Canon is for me the wrong system decision. Sony A1 doesn't have all that topics.
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! H Y P E D D D ! 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
He asked for tips not differences between, he already bought the "pro" camera. I don't think you answered his question.
Towards the end, he pointed out 'read the manual'.
There are a LOT of features in the more advanced cameras that are not obvious, and without knowing they;'re there, they can't be taken advantage of. Whether it's customizing the buttons to do what you want them to do or taking advantage of custom WB, a dozen different AF modes, programming program mode limits, trap focus, multi-exposure, etc., the first step is knowing what's possible.