I have a 2019 .. Yes, it will throw a code. If it does, and you put all of your stuff back in, to clear code: Have trip meter set on trip B, turn ignition off. Hold select button on dash down, than turn on ignition to clear light off dash. Worked on my bike, took two cycles of the key to clear light on dash. Me? I removed canister, but kept sensors in and hooked up, to keep from throwing the code. Why .. dunno. To clear up space top of engine I guess .... not really worth much other than clearing some space.
To plug a factory tank you could just cut a short piece of the hose that you plugged to put the aftermarket tank on and put it on the bottom of the tank and plug it with a stainless steel screw, thanks for the video man its greatly appreciated, always a pleasure to watch your videos!
I have a 2013 crf250l and just returned from a Colorado expedition riding up to 11,000+feet. My bike vapor locked on me, wouldn't idle when going through technical trails and failure to start after a hard climb. I took off the gas cap and could hear gas boiling. After a few minutes the bike ran fine. I was riding along side a 2015 crf250r and that bike had no issues. I surmise it's because the evap system was not venting vapor through the charcoal canister. Remove the evap system if you're going to climb and work the bike. Engine braking is must have when returning down a very steep trail and having intermittent issues is not needed at any time.
About 1lb 3oz. You could figure in that is also uses less electricity, not having to actuate those two valves. Not that is would make very much difference, but every bit counts
I am definitely going to pull the canister. Probably not the PAIR valve. Thanks for these videos. It's nice to see someone do it first. Then I can see the pitfalls. How is your Seca doing and the 160 project?
could you just remove the 2 tubing for the pair valve assembly and cap off at the air box and at the check valve... and leave the the valve in place just remove the tubes.. if so.. should i cover the both entrances to the valve or i could leave them open?
The pair valve is on top of the engine. It has one opening. The pair solenoid is on the frame near the radiator catch can. That has an in and out. You could take the two tubes off, cap the air box, cap the pair valve. Remove the solenoid or cap both. If you have factory exhaust, leave everything alone as you need that air to help the catalyst burn better. If there is no clean air going in, it will plug up faster.
Thanks for the quick reply... i had alot of decel popping and backfire... i have stage one mod with k&n air filter, just took out the airbox snorkel and played with the ejk settings.... seems better now... just on the ejk instructons it said to disable the pair valve if there was alot of popping... and not any details on how to do it... ive seen somewhere that he had just capped off the pair valve and the airbox ports.. left the selenoid on the bike and left both ports open..(from what i can tell)... said " Leave the valve hooked up though and the wires running to it, so the ecu still thinks its there" ... or should i just take it all out.... im in canada so i dont have the evap canister... at least i dont think i do...
I was able to get my canister out without removing anything from throttle body or the valve on the canister just by twisting canister to the right (from left side of bike).
Thinking about removing all that junk out of my crf250l too. Have you had any problems yet with removing all that stuff, like lights on the dash coming on, etc..?
Only in the sense that it removes weight from the bike which increases your power to weight ratio. It does not make any more power in the engine when you do this. It's just removing extra junk that you don't really need. Less stuff to break and go wrong. This modification is also necessary if you are going to do a Big Bore Kit, or an aftermarket fuel tuner. I did not notice any difference when I just ran aftermarket exhaust without anything else modified besides this.
Could one theoretically just leave the PAIR valve in tact, guts and all, and the cover plate on top of the motor and just plug up the opening where the hose went??? Instead of making a block off plate? Thanks.
you know Kory, when I went home, I noticed that my stock tail light is not the same as the U.S. variant, I dont have the plate number lamp, it is just the tail ligjht and a clear plastic under to lighten the the plate. Stuff you're trying to modify, we have it in stock config in the Philippines
I hope so . I bought a seal saver tool , and it seemed to work . I still want it replaced and my fork oil topped off though . I didn't lose too much , maybe a puddle the size of a half dollar , but still .= /
Have you seen their video on RUclips ? They say they have a 99% success rate in repairing fork seals , and I believe it ! Most people would just replace it , but it's an easy and very cheap fix . I'm all about cheap = / I'll be using it after every other ride , just to make sure it stays clean .
brad b I don't know about that often, as they leak a bit when you clean them. might just put it in the bike tool box with a rag or two and fix as it begins leaking. easy to do while on a ride, just need an 8mm wrench and an Allen key to move the fork guards out of the way
For the PAIR system, why not just remove the hose from the airbox and add a cap, and the same on the reed valve fitting (cap it instead of making a blocking plate). Much less work, and the bike thinks the system is still there.
I have a 2019 .. Yes, it will throw a code. If it does, and you put all of your stuff back in, to clear code:
Have trip meter set on trip B, turn ignition off. Hold select button on dash down, than turn on ignition to clear light off dash. Worked on my bike, took two cycles of the key to clear light on dash.
Me? I removed canister, but kept sensors in and hooked up, to keep from throwing the code. Why .. dunno. To clear up space top of engine I guess .... not really worth much other than clearing some space.
Thanks!
@@KorysRides also, great vid btw., thx for posting this one. Super helpful, got me going in the correct direction :)
To plug a factory tank you could just cut a short piece of the hose that you plugged to put the aftermarket tank on and put it on the bottom of the tank and plug it with a stainless steel screw, thanks for the video man its greatly appreciated, always a pleasure to watch your videos!
I have a 2013 crf250l and just returned from a Colorado expedition riding up to 11,000+feet. My bike vapor locked on me, wouldn't idle when going through technical trails and failure to start after a hard climb. I took off the gas cap and could hear gas boiling. After a few minutes the bike ran fine. I was riding along side a 2015 crf250r and that bike had no issues. I surmise it's because the evap system was not venting vapor through the charcoal canister. Remove the evap system if you're going to climb and work the bike. Engine braking is must have when returning down a very steep trail and having intermittent issues is not needed at any time.
Thanks for sharing this, would still like to know what weight it saved.. Cheers
About 1lb 3oz. You could figure in that is also uses less electricity, not having to actuate those two valves. Not that is would make very much difference, but every bit counts
Yes it does, thanks again.
Thanks kory always enjoy your vids
I am definitely going to pull the canister. Probably not the PAIR valve. Thanks for these videos. It's nice to see someone do it first. Then I can see the pitfalls. How is your Seca doing and the 160 project?
could you just remove the 2 tubing for the pair valve assembly and cap off at the air box and at the check valve... and leave the the valve in place just remove the tubes.. if so.. should i cover the both entrances to the valve or i could leave them open?
The pair valve is on top of the engine. It has one opening. The pair solenoid is on the frame near the radiator catch can. That has an in and out. You could take the two tubes off, cap the air box, cap the pair valve. Remove the solenoid or cap both. If you have factory exhaust, leave everything alone as you need that air to help the catalyst burn better. If there is no clean air going in, it will plug up faster.
Thanks for the quick reply... i had alot of decel popping and backfire... i have stage one mod with k&n air filter, just took out the airbox snorkel and played with the ejk settings.... seems better now... just on the ejk instructons it said to disable the pair valve if there was alot of popping... and not any details on how to do it... ive seen somewhere that he had just capped off the pair valve and the airbox ports.. left the selenoid on the bike and left both ports open..(from what i can tell)... said " Leave the valve hooked up though and the wires running to it, so the ecu still thinks its there" ... or should i just take it all out.... im in canada so i dont have the evap canister... at least i dont think i do...
doesnt matter if its plugged in or not, it won't throw an error code
Is a programmer or tune needed to run properly after removing the evap system?
Nope, neither is required
I was able to get my canister out without removing anything from throttle body or the valve on the canister just by twisting canister to the right (from left side of bike).
Thinking about removing all that junk out of my crf250l too. Have you had any problems yet with removing all that stuff, like lights on the dash coming on, etc..?
No issues at all with error codes or anything like that
Does it throw a check engine code?
No
does this affect power at all?
Only in the sense that it removes weight from the bike which increases your power to weight ratio. It does not make any more power in the engine when you do this. It's just removing extra junk that you don't really need. Less stuff to break and go wrong. This modification is also necessary if you are going to do a Big Bore Kit, or an aftermarket fuel tuner. I did not notice any difference when I just ran aftermarket exhaust without anything else modified besides this.
What is your final thought on this mod? Do you feel any power gains/loss or was it simply for weight reduction? Thanks for posting.
No difference in power. Saved weight, less on the bike to go wrong.
Thank you Kory! Happy riding!
Could one theoretically just leave the PAIR valve in tact, guts and all, and the cover plate on top of the motor and just plug up the opening where the hose went??? Instead of making a block off plate? Thanks.
Could, but that plug has to be tough enough to deal with very hot exhaust gases.
I'm assuming that you live in an area that doesn't require emissions testing?
Yep
Nevermind, just got to that part of the video.
So many US regulations.
Thank the great state of California for the emissions bullshit. And low capacity gun magazines. So I'll just gut the muffler and carry more magazines!
you know Kory, when I went home, I noticed that my stock tail light is not the same as the U.S. variant, I dont have the plate number lamp, it is just the tail ligjht and a clear plastic under to lighten the the plate. Stuff you're trying to modify, we have it in stock config in the Philippines
NOYPI RIDER In Colorado motorcycles are exempt from emissions tests. So unless I move it doesn't matter I don't think.
My left fork seal started leaking too..... it was at 87 miles when I noticed it = (
brad b should be under warranty
I hope so . I bought a seal saver tool , and it seemed to work . I still want it replaced and my fork oil topped off though . I didn't lose too much , maybe a puddle the size of a half dollar , but still .= /
brad b best $7 I ever spent. just cleaned mine out again today, had some crusty crap in them
Have you seen their video on RUclips ? They say they have a 99% success rate in repairing fork seals , and I believe it ! Most people would just replace it , but it's an easy and very cheap fix . I'm all about cheap = / I'll be using it after every other ride , just to make sure it stays clean .
brad b I don't know about that often, as they leak a bit when you clean them. might just put it in the bike tool box with a rag or two and fix as it begins leaking. easy to do while on a ride, just need an 8mm wrench and an Allen key to move the fork guards out of the way
I don't know why you couldn't just put a rubber plug over the check valve Inlet I might do just that
It's pressure and vacuum, plus exhaust heat. So get a tough one and use a clamp.
thanks for the information!
For the PAIR system, why not just remove the hose from the airbox and add a cap, and the same on the reed valve fitting (cap it instead of making a blocking plate). Much less work, and the bike thinks the system is still there.
Why carry the extra unused components? And the cylinder head needs a plate as a cap would melt. It's holding back exhaust gasses.
2017 CRF250L is tossing a code with control valve unplugged. Any way around that? I would like to delete it.
I have no experience with the new gen models, but most vehicles can by tricked by inserting a resistor the same size as the control coil of the valve
a chair beeeee lol they even sold shirts with that on it. nice info thanks! feel any difference? power?noise?
Crf250l