I just finished replacing my front struts. I have a 2009 Jetta TDI. Here's for anyone doing this job in the future: -Removing the cv axle before touching anything suspension. Without removing it, I just didn't have that extra inch of clearance to hammer the knuckle down. The TDI version has bolt on inner axle which makes it even EASIER to remove from inside. -You don't have to remove the ball joint nuts. -You NEED a penetrating fluid. Soak everything before working. When prying open the knuckle, spray some so it works it's way down faster. -A Blowtorch helps A LOT with stubborn bolts but cover up anything rubber related or you'll burn a hole into any rubber boot. -Do NOT blast the top strut bolts with your impact. Go at it slowly. Mine completely stripped out and would spin in their place. I had to use an angle grinder to grind them down. -Clean out any triple hex hole before putting a socket into it. Any dirt / shavings will strip the pattern and leave you with a HEADACHE. -You can use anti-seize but use it sparingly. -Torque everything once the car is on the ground. It's easy for the top 3 bolts and the axle bolt but for the pinch bolt, you should jack up the brake rotor to apply force, compressing a bit the strut, simulating the car's weight. Good luck! Took about 5 hours without breaks for both front struts and springs.
by far the best video ive seen, wish i saw this. i had to replace the springs on mine and all other videos showed to remove the axle nut, ball joint nuts, and tie rod nut. a real PITA when i could have just did what he showed here. ugh.
The sway bar link actually uses a 6mm triple square, not allen / hex. This is probably what caused it to cam out in the video around 2:35, and when I tried it the same thing happened. This may vary between models, I'm not sure, but definitely check what you have before sticking an Allen key in there!
what they fail to show in here is a drive axle laying on the sway bar ! This will limit the travel of the hub assembly and will prevent you from getting the old strut out and a new strut in. you will have to remove the drive axle, or disconnect the sway bar links on both sides of the car.
It's "easier" if you remove everything because it gives you more room to move around and smack on things with a hammer. But it takes more time, and on a car that has struts as rusty as this, you'll probably find that the fasteners holding the ball joint and the axle are completely rusted, rounded, or unmovable anyways. It also makes it easier for viewers on a video to see what is going on.
Nice video but you didnt follow 1aautos video on common strut mistakes. In it he says to wait on tightening the 3 top mount bolts once the tires are on and the weight of car has loaded the springs
This method does not apply to all MK5 style VW's . the golf/rabbit you must remove the axle. If not, it will hit the sway bar and you can not remove the strut. there is not enough room.
This video is fantastic, but I'm a little confused. How do you have so much play to get strut out and new one in? Mine isn't giving me enough space to fit new one (by a few inches). Did you loosen something else that wasn't covered?
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I just finished replacing my front struts. I have a 2009 Jetta TDI. Here's for anyone doing this job in the future:
-Removing the cv axle before touching anything suspension. Without removing it, I just didn't have that extra inch of clearance to hammer the knuckle down. The TDI version has bolt on inner axle which makes it even EASIER to remove from inside.
-You don't have to remove the ball joint nuts.
-You NEED a penetrating fluid. Soak everything before working. When prying open the knuckle, spray some so it works it's way down faster.
-A Blowtorch helps A LOT with stubborn bolts but cover up anything rubber related or you'll burn a hole into any rubber boot.
-Do NOT blast the top strut bolts with your impact. Go at it slowly. Mine completely stripped out and would spin in their place. I had to use an angle grinder to grind them down.
-Clean out any triple hex hole before putting a socket into it. Any dirt / shavings will strip the pattern and leave you with a HEADACHE.
-You can use anti-seize but use it sparingly.
-Torque everything once the car is on the ground. It's easy for the top 3 bolts and the axle bolt but for the pinch bolt, you should jack up the brake rotor to apply force, compressing a bit the strut, simulating the car's weight.
Good luck! Took about 5 hours without breaks for both front struts and springs.
+@abrahamsalamah5773 Thanks for watching. Buy the part in this video on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
by far the best video ive seen, wish i saw this. i had to replace the springs on mine and all other videos showed to remove the axle nut, ball joint nuts, and tie rod nut. a real PITA when i could have just did what he showed here. ugh.
Literally the best video on doing this I’ve even seen!!!!!! You are awesome!
The sway bar link actually uses a 6mm triple square, not allen / hex. This is probably what caused it to cam out in the video around 2:35, and when I tried it the same thing happened.
This may vary between models, I'm not sure, but definitely check what you have before sticking an Allen key in there!
I like how careful you are in doing the work. Hope my mechanic working on my vw Jetta SW TDI is this careful. Thank you for your video.
Definitely lmk how around how much you paid please
Also do not need to remove the wiper arms, the plastic shroud moves just fine as is for removal of the top strut bolts
what they fail to show in here is a drive axle laying on the sway bar ! This will limit the travel of the hub assembly and will prevent you from getting the old strut out and a new strut in. you will have to remove the drive axle, or disconnect the sway bar links on both sides of the car.
One question, how come all the other online videos show that you need to remove the axle bolt, and ball joint nuts. and you didn't seem to do that???
It's "easier" if you remove everything because it gives you more room to move around and smack on things with a hammer. But it takes more time, and on a car that has struts as rusty as this, you'll probably find that the fasteners holding the ball joint and the axle are completely rusted, rounded, or unmovable anyways.
It also makes it easier for viewers on a video to see what is going on.
Nice video but you didnt follow 1aautos video on common strut mistakes. In it he says to wait on tightening the 3 top mount bolts once the tires are on and the weight of car has loaded the springs
This method does not apply to all MK5 style VW's . the golf/rabbit you must remove the axle. If not, it will hit the sway bar and you can not remove the strut. there is not enough room.
This video is fantastic, but I'm a little confused. How do you have so much play to get strut out and new one in? Mine isn't giving me enough space to fit new one (by a few inches). Did you loosen something else that wasn't covered?
Never mind, I see now the jetta mk5 2.5 needs the axle loosened.
That doesn’t work on my car, whatever you did to it you need to tell us pls
I need to change the front struts for My Jetta 2009 .I'm not sure what size I need to buy. Do you know if it is size 50mm or 55mm?
This job would not need an alignment after since there is no adjustment at the strut.
Anyone know how to do it on the passenger side cause I’m having a very hard time getting the other side done
You put your stopped in backward