Just treated my 2002 110 chassis. I jet washed it off then wire brushed what I could get at. Left it three weeks to dry ( lockdown so can’t go anywhere). Used bilt Hamber s50 inside. Bit of advice, even after flush the chassis till it ran clear, it still had a lot of dust n grit inst. the spray lance always sprayed crap out. So use compressor to blow out the chassis once it’s dried after flushing. Mines similar condition. I did mid cross member last Nov. Rear CM looks ok for now. Every thing got four coats of dynax SB.
Even though I rebuilt my 90 on galvanised chassis i still put a drain cleaner karcher hose down it and renew the Dinitrol every year. A bit of work but prevention is better than cure.
Soak my chassis's 90 & 110 1991 and 1993 vehicles with oil/diesel/penetrating oil dinitrol ML mix inside and then recently used Dynax s50 on the outside, very impressed with that.I Would say the important thing is spraying inside with a compressor assisted wax injection gun to blast it around as much as possible. Probably just as important to do the inside of the bulkhead too. Would say if i was you i would just get some penetrating oil or even just diesel inside the chassis to creep into and slow the corrosion asap then do another dinitrol coat on the outside ideally after mechanically wire brushing.
@@lrworkshop I just use a little 25L 9.5 CFM Aldi Special about 7 years old. Much the same as the Wolf Air ones, its lightweight and compact and runs on 13A plug, ive been giving it grief at the moment with my DA sander and it just comes back for more best £69 quid i ever spent.
You're in about the same position I was tail end of last year. Had my 1994 90 about 10 years and my chassis was generally good, had had a rear cross member a few years before but I noticed a bit of corrosion on the front cross member which, when I started hitting, became a slightly bigger hole spreading onto the dumb iron. Cut the rot out with a cutting wheel and found plenty of rot inside around the strengtheners etc. It could have been patched fairly quickly and cheaply but, as I intend to keep my Landy for a good while it was a case of patch up every year or so or bite the bullet and have a galvy chassis. I chose the latter and had it powder coated before fitting. Looks good and I've almost got over the bill now so it's all good!
A friend of mine runs an independent LR garage so I gave him the job. I would have been happy to tackle it myself but you need the room of three Landrovers to do it....and I just don’t have it.
I would sand blast two areas, the worst area and the best area, it will give you a very good idea of the amount of work needed. Either way to repair or replace means taking the body off!
I would say its about 50/50..50% looks okay 50% of it is worrying..having a spare new galvanised chassis though is well worth having..might want to replace the chassis sooner than 5 years though I would think. Your defender definitely deserves a new chassis at this point👍
Soaked mine in oil inside and out every year . Chassis is as good as it was as it left the factory.... 26 yrs ago... old engine oil is fine and costs you nothing.
But as a downside it's hugely environmentally unsound and unless you're never going near that chassis without PPE is a terrible risk long term. Yes I agree it works an absolute treat. But it's no a great plan. I certainly wouldn't let my kids help me turn a few nuts and bolts if my chassis was dripping with old oil.
Lots of people say not to use old engine oil because the combustion gases make it acidic, poisonous, environmentally unfriendly, smelly etc. I use old EP90 instead. It is thicker so seems to stick for longer and there is less for people to moan about.
Looks a lot like the chassis on my 90, which I’m hoping to swop for a galvi chassis next year. There’s a lot of comments on here about treating or coating a galvi chassis. I don’t know much about this obviously. Is it needed?
That’s a bit scary. Clearly I know very little about this but the info I get when I ask about is that the galvi chassis rebuild is future proof. There’s also noise about have a galvi chassis removes a lot of the issues with it reacting with the aluminium body. Maybe an opportunity to have a clear out of all the old wives tales? Thanks for the heads up though!
Could the power steering fluid from the leaks have got into the chassis and washed the Dinitrol out? When i change my fuel filter if any diesel splashes on it the Dinitrol runs right off. Its not the worst chassis in the world the worst areas need the crust taking off and seeing how much metal is left, i would expect depending on mot station you will need some welding and plating doing to get it through. You carry your family in that vehicle so really the logistics shouldn't matter, the chassis needs swapping. My mate just swapped his 1984 chassis on his own during lockdown in 2 weeks, just used basic tools, a jack and an engine crane
A godo reminder of what you can achieve when you put your mind to it! The family doesn't really travel in it any more, but i've shown Jen the video in any case not sure the leaks would have made it to the rear, but it's an interesting point
Yep I know this mine is almost 1 year old now but that's why I bought a landrover I love to fix everything on them. I don't get to drive it much just fix and spend money on it. One life just fix it.
i haver a 1989 chassis on mine not a spec of rust i bought it over five years ago got it blasted and galved and filled the inside with waxoil that is the way forward i have a 1998 one which is getting the same done
You have to use rust inhabitor which turn the rust back to metal!!! Then paint it with gloss enamel paint!!! Then spray it down with diesel fuel !!!! Oil some type of oil!!!! That should hold failure off a bit!!!!
G'Day Will. Matey in my opinion, you're not going to get another 5 years out of that chassis unless you just about drown the damn thing in oil every month! Mate its in a bad way, you know it is. I think it might be time to start seriously planing a chassis swap in less than 2years, not 5. PS: Put it this way, after seeing that and you asked me to go for a drive in your beasty.....I'd decline!
Afternoon with a MIG will sort 90% and a day to do a proper job replacing www.lrworkshop.com/parts/NRC4171 ... Coat the lot in corroless and the wax for the inside www.arc-rite.co.uk/paints/specialist-paints/corroless-rust-control after a good flush and dry. It can be done. Worked on a lot worse and some are still going today without a new chassis.
sorry to say but it looks like is too late for saving your chassis, I will suggest investing on new galvanized chassis and overhaul the entire undercarriage
not that bad ,,, seen a lot worse with a ticket on ,,, acf 50 is your way forwards , outriggers and spring mounts / shock mounts at the back , and rear x member are the usual problem areas. acf will get you a few years yet ,, but theres at least one patch needed but thats no biggie its the inside of the chassis that give rise to the rot , the outside just follows . Having said that , as ive said before and will say again if you stand beside a land rover on a quiet night , you can actually hear them rust. land rovers are garbage in that way , its the reinforcements on the inside corners of the chassis that causes the problems , this should have been sorted years ago , lets face it , you dont see p38s with rusty chassis ,,, and trust me i know what im talking about i make a LOT of money repairing land rover chassis ,,, and i drive an Audi.
I ended up talking about crossmembers and outriggers so much that I started getting them mixed up 😂
Just treated my 2002 110 chassis. I jet washed it off then wire brushed what I could get at. Left it three weeks to dry ( lockdown so can’t go anywhere). Used bilt Hamber s50 inside. Bit of advice, even after flush the chassis till it ran clear, it still had a lot of dust n grit inst. the spray lance always sprayed crap out. So use compressor to blow out the chassis once it’s dried after flushing.
Mines similar condition. I did mid cross member last Nov. Rear CM looks ok for now. Every thing got four coats of dynax SB.
Even though I rebuilt my 90 on galvanised chassis i still put a drain cleaner karcher hose down it and renew the Dinitrol every year. A bit of work but prevention is better than cure.
i'll definitely be spraying the galv one
Iv got one of those but i carn't get it to the very back or front of the chassis. Did you drill out some of the holes to get the jet nozzle in?
@@radiator0 I reamed out some of the holes on the underside to get the tube through. Also where the chassis loom goes in i have a hole on both sides
Soak my chassis's 90 & 110 1991 and 1993 vehicles with oil/diesel/penetrating oil dinitrol ML mix inside and then recently used Dynax s50 on the outside, very impressed with that.I Would say the important thing is spraying inside with a compressor assisted wax injection gun to blast it around as much as possible. Probably just as important to do the inside of the bulkhead too. Would say if i was you i would just get some penetrating oil or even just diesel inside the chassis to creep into and slow the corrosion asap then do another dinitrol coat on the outside ideally after mechanically wire brushing.
a compressor would be a good shout. cheers
@@lrworkshop I just use a little 25L 9.5 CFM Aldi Special about 7 years old. Much the same as the Wolf Air ones, its lightweight and compact and runs on 13A plug, ive been giving it grief at the moment with my DA sander and it just comes back for more best £69 quid i ever spent.
diesel is hygroscopic but try telling that to an average farmer ,,, the ones i know want to use diesel and a releasing agent.
You're in about the same position I was tail end of last year. Had my 1994 90 about 10 years and my chassis was generally good, had had a rear cross member a few years before but I noticed a bit of corrosion on the front cross member which, when I started hitting, became a slightly bigger hole spreading onto the dumb iron. Cut the rot out with a cutting wheel and found plenty of rot inside around the strengtheners etc. It could have been patched fairly quickly and cheaply but, as I intend to keep my Landy for a good while it was a case of patch up every year or so or bite the bullet and have a galvy chassis. I chose the latter and had it powder coated before fitting. Looks good and I've almost got over the bill now so it's all good!
did you do it yourself or a garage did?
A friend of mine runs an independent LR garage so I gave him the job. I would have been happy to tackle it myself but you need the room of three Landrovers to do it....and I just don’t have it.
I would sand blast two areas, the worst area and the best area, it will give you a very good idea of the amount of work needed. Either way to repair or replace means taking the body off!
Hey there...of the topic can you explain about differences on paint of different manufacturing year...can you do a video on that thanks...
I would say its about 50/50..50% looks okay 50% of it is worrying..having a spare new galvanised chassis though is well worth having..might want to replace the chassis sooner than 5 years though I would think. Your defender definitely deserves a new chassis at this point👍
yeah. I do wonder about whether to just take it off the road until I'm able to do a rebuild, so I don't end up chasing the rot with time and money
I've got a disco 2 and I would swap my chassis for yours like a shot, I've got holes....
You don't sound too disappointed 😉
More justification to fit the galvanised one!
@@lrworkshop I'm looking forward to the video build diary 👍🏻😎
Hi Will. Keep as much salt and moisture out as possible. Gwyn Lewis (which you mention) do good range of mud shields.
might take a look at the rear ones. cheers
Not sure that's got 5 years left in it to be honest. That galvy chassis needs fitting sooner rather than later.
roger!
@@lrworkshop I think you knew that anyway. My IIA chassis didn't look too bad but when we started getting into it it was way worse than anticipated.
Soaked mine in oil inside and out every year . Chassis is as good as it was as it left the factory.... 26 yrs ago... old engine oil is fine and costs you nothing.
But as a downside it's hugely environmentally unsound and unless you're never going near that chassis without PPE is a terrible risk long term. Yes I agree it works an absolute treat. But it's no a great plan. I certainly wouldn't let my kids help me turn a few nuts and bolts if my chassis was dripping with old oil.
oil is not the way to go ,,, and never used oil ,,, acf50 great stuff and no i dont work for them
Lots of people say not to use old engine oil because the combustion gases make it acidic, poisonous, environmentally unfriendly, smelly etc. I use old EP90 instead. It is thicker so seems to stick for longer and there is less for people to moan about.
@@gshort4707 try acf 50 ,,, oil still floats on water ,, thats the problem , well one of the problems , it also emulsifies
@@gshort4707 So you're the one with the landy that smells the most like cat pee ... nice 😁
Looks a lot like the chassis on my 90, which I’m hoping to swop for a galvi chassis next year. There’s a lot of comments on here about treating or coating a galvi chassis. I don’t know much about this obviously. Is it needed?
Hi Phil. I would. There's stories of people with 15 year old galv chassis that have rotted through
That’s a bit scary. Clearly I know very little about this but the info I get when I ask about is that the galvi chassis rebuild is future proof. There’s also noise about have a galvi chassis removes a lot of the issues with it reacting with the aluminium body. Maybe an opportunity to have a clear out of all the old wives tales? Thanks for the heads up though!
Could the power steering fluid from the leaks have got into the chassis and washed the Dinitrol out? When i change my fuel filter if any diesel splashes on it the Dinitrol runs right off.
Its not the worst chassis in the world the worst areas need the crust taking off and seeing how much metal is left, i would expect depending on mot station you will need some welding and plating doing to get it through. You carry your family in that vehicle so really the logistics shouldn't matter, the chassis needs swapping. My mate just swapped his 1984 chassis on his own during lockdown in 2 weeks, just used basic tools, a jack and an engine crane
A godo reminder of what you can achieve when you put your mind to it! The family doesn't really travel in it any more, but i've shown Jen the video in any case
not sure the leaks would have made it to the rear, but it's an interesting point
Yep I know this mine is almost 1 year old now but that's why I bought a landrover I love to fix everything on them. I don't get to drive it much just fix and spend money on it. One life just fix it.
i haver a 1989 chassis on mine not a spec of rust i bought it over five years ago got it blasted and galved and filled the inside with waxoil that is the way forward i have a 1998 one which is getting the same done
You have to use rust inhabitor which turn the rust back to metal!!! Then paint it with gloss enamel paint!!! Then spray it down with diesel fuel !!!! Oil some type of oil!!!! That should hold failure off a bit!!!!
How'd the MOT go?
It passed! I welded up the front dumb irons and dinitroled it inside and out
@@lrworkshop congrats! Another year of "reprieve" ;-)
G'Day Will. Matey in my opinion, you're not going to get another 5 years out of that chassis unless you just about drown the damn thing in oil every month! Mate its in a bad way, you know it is. I think it might be time to start seriously planing a chassis swap in less than 2years, not 5.
PS: Put it this way, after seeing that and you asked me to go for a drive in your beasty.....I'd decline!
appreciate your honesty :)
Afternoon with a MIG will sort 90% and a day to do a proper job replacing www.lrworkshop.com/parts/NRC4171 ... Coat the lot in corroless and the wax for the inside www.arc-rite.co.uk/paints/specialist-paints/corroless-rust-control after a good flush and dry. It can be done. Worked on a lot worse and some are still going today without a new chassis.
It's just Triggers' Broom (George Washingtons' axe, for my fellow Americans) until you order a new galvanized one!
yes an endless cycle
Good old land rover keeping 1000s employed all over the world.
sorry to say
but it looks like is too late for saving your chassis, I will suggest investing on new galvanized chassis and overhaul the entire undercarriage
got the chassis already, just need the space and time! I get what you're saying :)
...that'll T-Cut out..... :)
if only
@@lrworkshop but seriously I do know where you are coming from...I'm currently replacing my 90 chassis on my channel...it's a bugger 😂😂😂
If your gonna rust proof your car it needs redoing every 2 yrs at least! i dont care what you use....
hindsight...! it doesn't seem to look too bad, right before it isn't
not that bad ,,, seen a lot worse with a ticket on ,,, acf 50 is your way forwards ,
outriggers and spring mounts / shock mounts at the back , and rear x member are the usual problem areas. acf will get you a few years yet ,, but theres at least one patch needed but thats no biggie its the inside of the chassis that give rise to the rot , the outside just follows .
Having said that , as ive said before and will say again
if you stand beside a land rover on a quiet night , you can actually hear them rust.
land rovers are garbage in that way , its the reinforcements on the inside corners of the chassis that causes the problems , this should have been sorted years ago , lets face it , you dont see p38s with rusty chassis ,,, and trust me i know what im talking about i make a LOT of money repairing land rover chassis ,,, and i drive an Audi.
If that was my chassis I wouldn’t be able to sleep at night.
I'm pretty certain it's din-eh-trawl
I've always thought di-ni-trol......as opposed to Die-nie-trol...
I've heard Funrover say it that way
Why are you allowed to have a Defender? Ugh. Buzzweld treatment isn't that expensive 😭
heh time time time :D